Reminiscences--An aged pastor--Streets of Natchez on the
Sabbath--Interior of a church--Church music--Pulpit oratory
--A New-England scene--Peculiar state of society--Wealthy
ministers--Clerical planters--Health of Mississippi--
Episcopalian church--Catholics--The French language--
Catholic education--Methodists--An alarm bell and slaves.
After a long voyage, the sound of a Sabbath bell, borne over the waves
from a white tower, far inland among the green hills of my native land,
awed, like a voice from heaven, every spirit on board of our ship, from
the commander to the rudest mariner, striking a chord long untouched in
many hearts, and awakening associations of innocence and childhood, of
home and heaven. As one after another, each clear-toned peal rolled
solemnly over the sea, every footfall was involuntarily hushed, the half
uttered jest or oath was arrested on the tongue--the turbulent spirit
was quieted and subdued--every rough weather-beaten visage was softened,
and for the remainder of that day--long, long after its dying notes had
floated like spiritual music over our ship, and died away in the distant
"fields of the ocean,"--each one on board felt himself a better man.
Sensations nearly allied to these were awakened in my breast, as I
stood upon the cliff, the Sabbath morning preceding the date of my last
letter, contrasting the calm rich beauty of nature, with the dark scenes
of vice, misery and impiety beneath me, by the sudden pealing of the
church bell, ringing out its loud melody over the city, awakening the
slumbering echoes from
"Tomb and tower, cliff and forest glade,"
and calling man to the worship of his Maker. My thoughts, by a natural
association, went backward many a long year, and dwelt upon a sweet
sequestered valley, far away among the northern hills, with its chaste
temple, whose snow-white slender spire, like the finger of undying hope,
pointed man to his home in heaven, where, in early boyhood, we were
first taught to worship the Great Being who made us; to the venerable
figure of that silver-headed man of God, whose eloquence, at one time
sublime, and full of majesty and power, would strike his hearers with
holy dread--at another, soft, persuasive, and artless as the language of
a child, diffuse a holy devotion throughout their bosoms, or melt them
into tears; whose audience listened with their hearts, rather than with
their ears--so masterly was the intellect, made God-like by religion,
which could ring what changes it would, upon the susceptible chords of
human sensibility. My reverie of the past, however, was soon interrupted
by the rattling of carriages, as they rolled over the noble esplanade
between me and the city, from the roads which extend north and south
along the banks of the river, on their way to church. I prepared to
follow their example. From my position I could look into one of the
principal streets of the town, now rapidly filling with well-dressed
people, numerous private equipages, and horsemen in great numbers. I
soon fell in with the living current, and in a few minutes arrived at
the Presbyterian church, situated in the centre and highest part of the
city. The approach was literally blockaded by carriages from the suburbs
and neighbouring plantations.
The congregation was large, attentive, and so far as I could judge, as
exteriorly fashionable as in Boston or New-York. The interior of the
building is plain, and vaulted. A handsome pulpit stands opposite the
entrance, over which is a gallery for the coloured people. The pulpit is
deficient in a sounding-board, that admirable contrivance for condensing
the voice, which, in an apartment of vast dimensions, has too great
expansion. There was neither organ nor any other instrumental aid to the
church music, which, though exclusively vocal, was uncommonly fine--the
clergyman himself leading. But the effect was much lessened by the want
of that volume and power, which it would gain, were the singers, who are
now dispersed over the house in their respective pews, collected into a
choir, and placed in the gallery, as is generally customary elsewhere.
The discourse was unexceptionable; possessing more originality than is
usually found at the present day in compositions of that nature,
embellished with considerable beauties of language, and pronounced in a
forcible, unimpassioned, yet impressive style of oratory, which I should
like to see more adopted in the sacred desk, as eminently fitter for the
solemnity of the house of God, than that haranguing declamatory style of
headlong eloquence so often displayed in the pulpit.
As I delayed for a minute under the portico of the church, after the
services were over, watching, with a stranger's eye, the members of the
congregation as they issued from the church and filed off through the
several streets to their residences, I felt that I had not, since
leaving New-England, beheld a scene which reminded me so forcibly and
pleasantly of home. I have, in a former letter, alluded to the
prevalence of the Presbyterian church government in Mississippi, to the
preclusion of Congregationalists. There is not a resident minister of
the latter denomination in this state or in Louisiana. There are only
about twenty-four Presbyterian churches in the state, comprising between
eight and nine hundred communicants in all; a less number than now
composes the late Dr. Payson's church in Portland. The church in Natchez
includes about one hundred members, which is the largest number in any
one church in the whole state, with two exceptions; one of which is, a
Scotch community, about fifty miles in the country east from this city;
most of whom, or their fathers before them, emigrating from the land of
primitive manners, still retain their national characteristics of
simplicity and piety; and that stern, unyielding spirit and Christian
devotedness which distinguished the Scottish Presbyterians of "olden
time," of whom, though planted in the bosom of an American forest, they
are worthy and original representatives. They are a plain, moderately
independent, farming community, and sincerely and rigidly devoted to the
duties of Christian worship. They have an aged pastor over them, to whom
they are devotedly attached; and who is to them, who regard him with the
affection of children, indeed a "shepherd and father in Israel." They
live like a little band of exiled Waldenses, unsophisticated in their
manners, pure and severe in their religion. The Gaelic is spoken among
them, and also by many of the other settlers in that portion of the
state, who reside in the vicinity of Pearl river; by them also the old
popular Gaelic songs are sung, in their original purity and spirit. In
the vicinity of this settlement the Presbyterians annually hold a camp
meeting. A Presbyterian camp meeting is at least a novelty at the north.
The majority of the ministers of this state are graduates of Princeton
college. They form, as do the educated clergy every where, a class of
well-informed, intelligent men; though too few in number, and generally
placed over congregations too much scattered throughout a large and
thinly inhabited extent of country, to command or exercise that peculiar
influence upon society which, in more densely populated countries, is so
universally possessed by them; and whose elevating, purifying, and moral
effect is so readily acknowledged by all classes. So long as this state
of society, now peculiar to the south, continues, ministerial
influence, in its unadulterated and evangelical power, can hold but
limited sway over the heart of the community. Divines are too often
looked upon, not as representatives of the Saviour, but merely as
intelligent, clever gentlemen, popular and esteemed as they make
themselves more or less agreeable and social. A distinguished clergyman
in England--where, as you know, the surplice is too often assumed,
without any other qualification for the sacred office than the talisman
"interest," was termed "a clever, noble fellow," by the neighbouring
gentry, for his skill in hunting, and the other lordly sports of English
country gentlemen. The manners, customs, amusements, and way of life, of
the native born, wealthy, educated planters, have struck me as very
similar to those of English gentlemen of wealth and leisure: and it is
certain that, generally, many of them would be very apt, like them, to
appreciate a clergyman as much for his social qualifications, as for
those naturally associated with, and with which he is invested by, his
clerical honours.
Here, the Presbyterian clergy, unlike those in the northern states, are
generally wealthy. With but a few exceptions, they have, after a short
residence in this country, become planters, some of whom have noble
annual incomes. After retiring to their plantations they do not--and I
mention it with pleasure--altogether resign their ministerial duties.
Some of them preach in destitute churches, from time to time; while
others regularly officiate to congregations of their own slaves. One of
these clerical planters has erected a neat church upon his plantation,
in which he officiates to an assembly of his slaves three Sabbaths in
every month; where the worship is conducted with the same regularity,
decorum, and dignity, as in other congregations. Some leave the entire
management of their estates to overseers, and regularly perform their
official duties. But it is difficult for a clergyman to own a rich
plantation, without becoming a thorough-going cotton planter. The
occupation, with all its ramifications, if not incompatible with his
holy office, must necessarily be more or less injurious to the
individual, and present a broad target for the shafts of the confessed
worshipper of Mammon.
The bugbear reputation of this country for mortality, has long deterred
young ministers from filling the places occasionally deserted by their
former occupants; many of whom, if they do not resign their office, pass
the long summers at the north.--But as no country can well be healthier
than this has been, for the last six or seven years, this "health plea"
can no longer be offered as an excuse. Indeed, so singularly healthy is
this portion of the south-west, that were I required to give it a name,
with reference to some one striking characteristic, I should at once
call it "Buenos Ayres."[2] Such, briefly, is the state and condition of
the Presbyterian church in this state; which, aside from its form of
government, in its formula of faith, and in the rank in society of its
members, is equivalent to the Congregational churches in the north.
The peculiar structure of southern society is neither prepared for, nor
will it admit of, the exercise of that ecclesiastical influence to which
I have above alluded. It is composed, primarily, of wealthy individuals,
living aloof from each other on their respective plantations, isolated
like feudal chieftains, who, of old, with the spirit of ascetics,
frowned defiance at each other, from their castellated rocks: though, do
not understand me that planters partake of their belligerent spirit. On
the contrary, the reverse is most true of them--for "hospitality" and
"southern planter" are synonymous terms. Though there are not more
hospitable men in the world than southern gentlemen--though no men can
render their houses more agreeable to the stranger--though none are more
fascinating in their manners, or more generous in heart--yet they are
deficient in that social, domestic feeling, which is the life,
excellence, and charm of New-England society, which renders it so dear
to every wanderer's heart, and casts around the affections a spell that
no power but death can injure or destroy.
The Episcopalian church comprises an infinitely smaller body of members:
the few who are of this church, however, are generally opulent planters,
merchants, and professional men, with their families. There is but one
church of this denomination in the state, which is in this city. I
attended worship here the last Sabbath. The house was fashionably but
thinly filled. The interior of the house is plain, though relieved, near
the termination of the southern aisle, by a black marble slab, fixed in
the wall, to the memory of the Rev. Dr. Porter, late pastor of the
church. The pulpit, which is a miniature forum, is chaste and elegant,
and its drapery rich and tastefully arranged. The choir was full and
powerful, whose effect was increased by a fine-toned organ, the only one
in the state; but whose rich and striking melody must be a powerful
pleader, to the ears of amateurs of good church music, for their more
general introduction. The eloquence of the speaker was engaging, mild,
and gentlemanly. The latter term is very expressive of his manner, and
conciliating pulpit address.--Though not striking as an orator, his
thoughts were just and pertinent. He
"Mysterious secrets of a high concern
And weighty truths--
Explained by unaffected eloquence."
Contrary to the prevalent opinion at the north, Roman Catholic influence
in this state is entirely unknown. Formerly there was a Romish church in
this city, ill endowed and seldom supplied with an officiating priest.
This was accidentally destroyed by fire a year or two since; and there
is now no church of that denomination in the state, and hardly a
sufficient number of Catholics to organize one, did they possess either
the spirit or inclination. Such is the peculiar turn of mind of
Mississippians, that they never can be catholicised. The contiguity of
this state to Louisiana, with its French-Roman population, has probably
given rise to the opinion above stated, which is as erroneous and
unfounded in fact, as is one also very current among northerners, and
originating from the same local relation. Obtaining their knowledge of
this, among other countries, from Morse's or Cumming's Geography, or
other imperfect sources, they have the impression that the French and
Spanish languages are much spoken here; whereas they are probably less
used here, in mere colloquial intercourse, than in many of the Atlantic
states. Maine adjoins Canada; yet who gives Major Downing's
fellow-countrymen the credit of speaking French in their daily
transactions? It is true that many planters and citizens of Mississippi
send their sons to the Catholic seminary at St. Louis, or Bardstown, in
Kentucky, and their daughters to the French convents in Louisiana; but
this cannot be advanced as any proof of the prevalence of the religion
of Rome here, as the same thing is done in New-England, where stand the
very pillars of the orthodox faith; and it is done much less frequently
now than in former years. The prevailing Christian denomination, as I
have before remarked, is that of the Methodists. The excess of their
numbers over that of the two other denominations, Presbyterians and
Episcopalians, is very great; but having no table of ecclesiastical
statistics by me, to which I can refer for greater accuracy, I cannot
state correctly the proportions which they bear to each other.--This
denomination embraces all ranks of society, including many of the
affluent and a majority of the merely independent planters, throughout
the state.--Some of the assemblages here, in the Methodist churches,
would remind the stranger rather of a fashionable New-York audience,
than a congregation of plain people, soberly arrayed, such as he is
accustomed to behold in a Methodist church in New-England. Indeed, the
Methodists here are generally a widely different class of people from
those which compose a northern congregation of the same denomination.
I will conclude my remarks upon the Sabbath, as observed in this city,
which was the subject of my last letter, and from which I have so long
digressed, by an allusion to a precautionary and wise municipal
regulation for freeing the city, before sunset on the Sabbath, of its
army of holiday negroes. At the hour of four the Court-house bell rings
out an alarum, long and loud, warning all strange slaves to leave the
city. Then commences a ludicrous scene of hurrying and scampering, from
the four corners of the town; for wo be to the unlucky straggler, who is
found after a limited period within the forbidden bounds! The penalty of
forty stripes, save one, is speedily inflicted, by way of a lesson in
the science of discretion. For a lesson, thus administered, few have
little relish; and the subjects thereof, with their heads--the negro's
_omnibus_--loaded with their little articles--a pound of this and a
pound of that--are, all and singular, soon seen following their noses,
with all commendable speed, along the diverging highways, keeping quick
time to the tune of "over the hills and far away," to their respective
plantations.