[Illustration: Book Cover]
[Illustration: MAP TO ACCOMPANY THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN AUSTRALASIA.]
[Illustration]
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN
AUSTRALASIA
ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO
THE SANDWICH, MARQUESAS, SOCIETY, SAMOAN, AND FEEJEE ISLANDS, AND
THROUGH THE COLONIES OF NEW ZEALAND, NEW SOUTH WALES
QUEENSLAND, VICTORIA, TASMANIA, AND SOUTH AUSTRALIA
BY
THOMAS W. KNOX
AUTHOR OF "THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST" "IN SOUTH AMERICA"
"IN RUSSIA" AND "ON THE CONGO" "THE YOUNG NIMRODS"
"THE VOYAGE OF THE 'VIVIAN'" ETC.
Illustrated
NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE
1889
By THOMAS W. KNOX.
* * * * *
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. Five Volumes. Copiously Illustrated.
8vo, Cloth, $3.00 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume
complete in itself.
I. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO JAPAN AND CHINA.
II. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO SIAM AND JAVA. With
Descriptions of Cochin-China, Cambodia, Sumatra, and the
Malay Archipelago.
III. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO CEYLON AND INDIA. With
Descriptions of Borneo, the Philippine Islands, and Burmah.
IV. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
V. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY THROUGH AFRICA.
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN SOUTH AMERICA. Adventures of Two Youths in a
Journey through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentine
Republic, and Chili; with Descriptions of Patagonia and Tierra del
Fuego, and Voyages upon the Amazon and La Plata Rivers. Copiously
Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00.
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. Adventures of Two Youths in a
Journey in European and Asiatic Russia, with Accounts of a Tour across
Siberia, Voyages on the Amoor, Volga, and other Rivers, a Visit to
Central Asia, Travels Among the Exiles, and a Historical Sketch of the
Empire from its Foundation to the Present Time. Copiously Illustrated.
8vo, Cloth, $3.00.
THE BOY TRAVELLERS ON THE CONGO. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey
with Henry M. Stanley "Through the Dark Continent." Copiously
Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00.
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN AUSTRALASIA. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey
to the Sandwich, Marquesas, Society, Samoan, and Feejee Islands, and
through the Colonies of New Zealand, New South Wales, Queensland,
Victoria, Tasmania, and South Australia. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo,
Cloth, $3.00.
THE VOYAGE OF THE "VIVIAN" TO THE NORTH POLE AND BEYOND. Adventures of
Two Youths in the Open Polar Sea. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth,
$2.50.
HUNTING ADVENTURES ON LAND AND SEA. Two Volumes. Copiously Illustrated.
8vo, Cloth, $2.50 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume
complete in itself.
I. THE YOUNG NIMRODS IN NORTH AMERICA.
II. THE YOUNG NIMRODS AROUND THE WORLD.
* * * * *
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
_Any of the above volumes sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of
the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price._
* * * * *
Copyright, 1888, by HARPER & BROTHERS.--_All rights reserved._
PREFACE.
The first settlement in Australia was made in 1788; consequently the
inhabitants of the great southern continent are this year celebrating
their centennial. Three millions of people settled in five great
colonies, possessing all the characteristics of an advanced
civilization, with the unity developed by a common language and a common
allegiance, and the rivalry that springs from the independence of each
colony by itself, are uniting in the centennial celebration, and
contrasting the Australia of to-day with that of one hundred years ago.
Previous to the discovery of gold in Australia, in 1851, Americans had
but little knowledge of that far-away land. The opening of the
auriferous fields attracted the attention of the whole civilized world
to the antipodes, and many Americans joined the multitude that went
thither in search of wealth. Since that time our relations with
Australia have, year by year, grown more intimate. Railways across our
continent and steamship lines over the broad Pacific have brought Sydney
and Melbourne in juxtaposition to New York and San Francisco, and in
this centennial Australian year we may almost regard the British
colonies under the Southern Cross as our next-door neighbors.
The writer of this volume is not aware that any illustrated book
descriptive of Australia and its neighboring colonies, New Zealand and
Tasmania, by an American author, or from an American press, has ever yet
appeared. Believing such a book desirable, he sent those youthful
veterans of travel, Frank Bassett and Fred Bronson, over the route
indicated on the title-page, with instructions to make careful note of
what they saw and learned. Under the guidance of their mentor and our
old friend Doctor Bronson they carried out their instructions to the
letter, and the results of their observations will be found in the
following pages. Trusting that the book will meet the favor that has
been accorded to previous volumes of the "Boy Traveller" series, they
offer their present work as their contribution to the Australian
centennial, and hope that the boys and girls of their native land will
find pleasure and profit in its perusal.
The method followed in the preparation of previous volumes of the series
has been observed in the present book as far as it was possible to do
so. The author's personal knowledge of the countries and people of
Australasia has been supplemented by information drawn from many
sources--from books, newspapers, maps, and other publications, and from
numerous Australian gentlemen whom he has known or with whom he has been
in correspondence. During the progress of the work he has kept a
watchful eye on the current news from the antipodes, and sought to bring
the account of the condition of the railways, telegraphs, and other
constantly changing enterprises down to the latest dates.
Many of the books consulted in the preparation of "The Boy Travellers In
Australasia" are named in the text, but circumstances made it
inconvenient to refer to all. Among the volumes used are the following:
Wallace's "Australasia," Forrest's "Explorations in Australia,"
Warburton's "Journey Across the Western Interior of Australia,"
Alexander's "Bush-fighting in the Maori War," Smyth's "Aborigines of
Victoria," Bodham-Whetham's "Pearls of the Pacific," Murray's "Forty
Years of Mission Work in Polynesia," Cumming's "At Home in Fiji,"
Markham's "Cruise of the _Rosario_," Palmer's "Kidnapping in the South
Seas," Buller's "Forty Years in New Zealand," "Australian Pictures,"
Harcus's "South Australia," Eden's "Australia's Heroes," Trollope's
"Australia and New Zealand," and Nordhoff's "Northern California,
Oregon, and the Sandwich Islands."
The publishers have kindly allowed the use of illustrations that have
appeared in HARPER'S MAGAZINE and other of their publications, and these
illustrations have admirably supplemented those that were specially
prepared for the book. The maps on the front and rear covers were
specially drawn from the best authorities, and are intended to embody
the most recent explorations and the latest developments of the railway
systems of the Australian colonies.
T. W. K.
NEW YORK, _July_, 1888.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU.--SIGHTS ON THE PACIFIC OCEAN.--A
PORTUGUESE MAN-OF-WAR.--NEARING THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.--THE
MOLOKAI CHANNEL.--SURF-BEATEN SHORES OF OAHU.--ARRIVAL AT
HONOLULU.--A PICTURESQUE PORT.--DISCOVERY AND HISTORY OF THE
SANDWICH ISLANDS.--CAPTAIN COOK: HIS TRAGIC DEATH.--HOW THE
PEOPLE HAVE BEEN CIVILIZED.--WORK OF THE MISSIONARIES.--SCHOOLS
AND CHURCHES.--PRESENT CONDITION OF THE POPULATION.--OLD
CUSTOMS.--SIGHTS AND SCENES IN HONOLULU.--TARO AND POI.--A
NATIVE DINNER.--THE COSTUMES OF THE ISLANDERS.--PECULIARITIES
OF THE CLIMATE.--THE HULA-HULA AND OTHER DANCES. Page 1
CHAPTER II.
IN AND AROUND HONOLULU.--PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--THE THEATRE.--ROAD
TO THE PALI.--A MAGNIFICENT VIEW.--VILLAS NEAR THE CITY.--GIRLS
ON HORSEBACK.--TARO-FIELDS.--THE WATER SUPPLY.--MOUNTAIN-PASS.--
HAWAIIAN COW-BOYS.--HILO AND THE VOYAGE THITHER.--APOCRYPHAL
STORIES ABOUT THE RAIN.--SURF-SWIMMING.--THE GREAT VOLCANO OF
KILAUEA.--OVER THE LAVA-FIELDS.--DIFFICULT ROADS.--THE VOLCANO
HOUSE.--A DISTURBED NIGHT.--BURNING LAKES.--SIGHT-SEEING UNDER
DIFFICULTIES.--TERRIFYING SCENES.--KILAUEA AND MAUNA LOA.--THE
GREATEST VOLCANO IN THE WORLD.--HISTORIC ERUPTIONS.--CRATER OF
HALEAKALA.--SUGAR CULTURE IN HAWAII: ITS EXTENT AND INCREASE.--
OTHER INDUSTRIES.--RETURNING BY SCHOONER TO HONOLULU.--LEPER
ISLAND OF MOLOKAI.--A DAY AMONG THE LEPERS. 24
CHAPTER III.
SUDDEN CHANGE OF PLANS.--THE YACHT "PERA."--DEPARTURE FROM
HONOLULU.--VOYAGE TO THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS.--NOOKAHEEVA BAY.--
HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE MARQUESAS.--WHAT OUR FRIENDS SAW
THERE.--TATTOOING AND HOW IT IS PERFORMED.--THE DAUGHTER OF A
CHIEF.--NATIVES AND THEIR PECULIARITIES.--COTTON AND OTHER
PLANTATIONS.--PHYSICAL FEATURES OF THE ISLANDS.--VISITING A
PLANTATION AND A NATIVE VILLAGE.--MISSIONARIES AND THEIR
WORK.--THE TABU.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS.--PITCAIRN ISLAND AND THE
MUTINEERS OF THE "BOUNTY."--WONDERS OF EASTER ISLAND.--GIGANTIC
MONUMENTS OF AN UNKNOWN RACE. 47
CHAPTER IV.
FROM THE MARQUESAS TO THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.--THE GREAT BARRIER
REEF.--THE CORAL INSECT AND HIS WORK.--ATOLLS AND THEIR
PECULIARITIES.--ORIGIN OF THE POLYNESIAN PEOPLE.--ARRIVAL AT
PAPÉITI.--ON SHORE IN TAHITI.--A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS.--
WORK OF THE MISSIONARIES.--THE FRENCH OCCUPATION.--VICTIMS FOR
SACRIFICE.--OLD-TIME CUSTOMS.--PRODUCTS OF THE SOCIETY
ISLANDS.--BECHE-DE-MER FISHING.--VISIT TO THE REEF.--CURIOUS
THINGS SEEN THERE.--ADVENTURES WITH SHARKS, STINGAREES, AND
OTHER MONSTERS.--GIGANTIC CLAMS.--VISITING THE MARKET.--EATING
LIVE FISHES.--A NATIVE FEAST.--EXCURSION TO POINT VENUS. 74
CHAPTER V.
FROM THE SOCIETY TO THE SAMOAN ISLANDS.--BEFORE THE
TRADE-WINDS.--NOTES ABOUT THE MISSIONARIES.--OPPOSITION OF
TRADERS TO MISSIONARIES.--HOW POLYNESIA WAS CHRISTIANIZED.--THE
WORK OF THE MISSIONS.--REV. JOHN WILLIAMS.--ROMANTIC STORY OF
THE HERVEY GROUP.--THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY.--THE WESLEYAN
AND OTHER MISSIONS.--DEATH OF MR. WILLIAMS.--SANDAL-WOOD
TRADERS.--POLYNESIAN SLAVERY.--LABOR-VESSELS AND THE
LABOR-TRADE.--HOW NATIVES WERE KIDNAPPED.--"THE MISSIONARY
TRICK."--THE MUTINY ON THE "CARL."--CAPTURE OF THE "DAPHNE."--
HOW LABOR IS OBTAINED AT PRESENT. 99
CHAPTER VI.
THE SAMOAN ISLANDS.--APIA.--ITS POSITION AND PECULIARITIES.--
BEACH-COMBERS.--HISTORY AND ADVENTURES OF SOME OF THEM.--
CHARLEY SAVAGE.--SAMOAN POLITICS.--ATTEMPT TO POISON
MISSIONARIES.--FRENCH CONVENT AND SCHOOLS.--COMMERCE WITH
SAMOA.--VISITING A NATIVE VILLAGE.--GAMES OF THE YOUNG
PEOPLE.--YOUTHS THROWING SPEARS.--MISSION COLLEGE AT MALUA.--
HOW THE STUDENTS LIVE.--PANGO-PANGO.--ADMIRAL WILKES'S
DESCRIPTION.--ATTENDING A SAMOAN PICNIC.--DIFFERENCES OF
TASTE.--MASSACRE BAY.--LA PÉROUSE.--HOW HIS FATE WAS
DISCOVERED.--THE SWORD-HILT AT TUCOPIA.--LOSS OF THE
"BOUSSOLE" AND "ASTROLABE."--VANIKORO ISLAND. 122
CHAPTER VII.
THE FEEJEE ISLANDS: THEIR EXTENT AND POPULATION.--TERRIBLE
FATALITY OF THE MEASLES.--ROTUMAH AND ITS PEOPLE.--KANDAVU
AND SUVA.--VITI LEVU.--SIGHTS OF THE CAPITAL.--PRODUCTIONS
AND COMMERCE OF FEEJEE.--GROWTH OF THE SUGAR TRADE.--THE LABOR
QUESTION.--OBSERVATIONS AMONG THE NATIVES.--FEEJEEAN
HAIR-DRESSING.--NATIVE PECULIARITIES.--CANNIBALISM: ITS EXTENT
AND SUPPRESSION.--HOW THE CHIEFS WERE SUPPLIED.--A WHOLE TRIBE
OF PEOPLE EATEN.--LEVUKA.--INTERVIEWS WITH MERCHANTS AND
PLANTERS.--THE BOLOLO FESTIVAL.--ANCIENT CUSTOMS. 147
CHAPTER VIII.
ATTENDING A NATIVE CHURCH.--A FEEJEEAN PREACHER.--DINNER WITH A
FEEJEEAN FAMILY.--THE SEASONS IN FEEJEE.--A TROPICAL SHOWER.--A
HURRICANE.--A PLANTER'S ADVENTURES.--SCENES OF DEVASTATION.--
THE CLIMATE OF THE FEEJEE ISLANDS.--WRECKED ON A REEF.--ESCAPING
FROM THE JAWS OF CANNIBALS.--A WALKING ART GALLERY.--A TATTOOED
WHITE MAN.--RETURNING TO SUVA.--THE FRIENDLY, OR TONGA,
ISLANDS.--TONGATABOO.--THE KING OF THE TONGAS: HOW HE LIVES.--A
REMARKABLE CAVERN AND A LOVE STORY ABOUT IT.--FROM FEEJEE TO
NEW ZEALAND.--HAURAKI GULF.--AUCKLAND.--A FINE SEAPORT AND ITS
COMMERCE.--HOW NEW ZEALAND WAS COLONIZED.--THE MAORIS.--CURIOUS
FACTS ABOUT A CURIOUS PEOPLE.--MISSIONARIES IN NEW ZEALAND.--
HOW THE MAORIS MAKE WAR. 173
CHAPTER IX.
THE SUBURBS OF AUCKLAND.--EXTINCT VOLCANOES.--MAORI
FORTIFICATIONS.--A KAURI FOREST.--KAURI LUMBER AND GUM.--HOW
THE GUM IS FORMED AND FOUND.--TREES OF NEW ZEALAND AND THEIR
VALUE.--FERNS AND THEIR VARIETY.--A PAKKHA MAORI: HIS
REMINISCENCES.--CURIOUS NATIVE CUSTOMS.--BUYING HEADS.--SALE
OF A LIVING MAN'S HEAD.--THE LAW OF MURU.--NEW ZEALAND
BIRDS.--THE GIGANTIC MOA, OR DINORNIS.--NATIVE WEDDINGS.--
KAWAU ISLAND.--SHARK-FISHING.--OYSTERS.--VISITING THE THAMES
GOLD-FIELDS.--SIGHTS AND SCENES.--GOLD-MINING IN NEW
ZEALAND.--POPULATION OF THE COLONY.--ENCOURAGEMENT TO
IMMIGRATION.--JOURNEY TO THE HOT LAKES.--CLIMATE OF NEW ZEALAND. 198
CHAPTER X.
THE HOT LAKE DISTRICT: ITS EXTENT AND PECULIARITIES.--
MEDICINAL SPRINGS.--ANALYSIS OF THE WATERS.--FRED'S NARROW
ESCAPE.--SCALDED TO DEATH IN A HOT POOL.--LAKE ROTOMAHANA.--
THE WHITE TERRACES: HOW THEY ARE FORMED.--THE PINK TERRACES.--
BOILING LAKES.--NATURE'S BATH-TUBS.--PETRIFIED BIRDS.--A
TABOOED MOUNTAIN.--THE TABU ON DUCKS.--NATIVE
DEMORALIZATION.--WAIROA.--DESTRUCTION OF THE TERRACES.--
TERRIBLE ERUPTION, WITH LOSS OR LIFE.--A VILLAGE THROWN INTO A
LAKE.--TAURANGA AND THE GATE PAH.--MAORI FORTIFICATIONS.--
SHORT HISTORY OF THE MAORI WAR: ITS CAUSES AND RESULTS.--FROM
TAURANGA TO NAPIER.--A PASTORAL COUNTRY.--ATTRACTIONS OF
NAPIER.--OVERLAND TO WELLINGTON.--FARMING AND HERDING
SCENES.--A CURIOUS ARTICLE OF COMMERCE. 222
CHAPTER XI.
ADVANTAGES OF WELLINGTON AS THE CAPITAL.--ITS INDUSTRIES AND
PROSPERITY.--A CITY OF EARTHQUAKES.--ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--
THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT: HOW THE COLONY IS RULED.--THE
COLONIAL PARLIAMENT.--MAORIS AS OFFICE-HOLDERS.--A WALK IN THE
BOTANICAL GARDENS.--DIVISION OF THE ISLANDS INTO COUNTIES AND
DISTRICTS.--NO CONNECTION BETWEEN CHURCH AND STATE.--RELATIVE
STRENGTH OF RELIGIOUS BODIES.--EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES.--THE
COLONIAL DEBT: ITS ENORMOUS FIGURES.--OVERLAND TO NEW
PLYMOUTH.--ALONG THE SEA-SHORE.--MAKING IRON FROM SEA-SAND.--
RIDING THROUGH THE BUSH.--NELSON AND PICTON.--THE WAIRAU
MASSACRE.--TO PORT LYTTELTON AND CHRISTCHURCH.--AN ENGLISH MODEL
COLONY.--THE CANTERBURY DISTRICT.--THE "SERVANT-GIRL" QUESTION. 246
CHAPTER XII.
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CANTERBURY DISTRICT.--VISIT TO A
SHEEP-STATION.--HOW THE SHEEP-BUSINESS IS CONDUCTED.--THE
AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE.--IRRIGATION IN NEW ZEALAND.--SHEEP LOST
IN SNOW-STORMS.--THE SHEEP-RAISER'S ENEMIES.--DESTRUCTION
CAUSED BY PARROTS.--THE RABBIT PEST.--HOW RABBITS ARE
EXTERMINATED.--VISIT TO A WHEAT-FARM.--WHEAT STATISTICS.--
IMPROVED MACHINERY.--THE SPARROW PEST.--TROUBLESOME EXOTICS.--
WATERCRESS, DAISIES, AND SWEETBRIER.--AN INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL.--
MOUNT COOK: FIRST ASCENT.--PERILOUS CLIMBING.--GLACIERS AND
LAKES.--THE SOUTHERN ALPS.--DUNEDIN.--OTAGO GOLD-FIELDS.--
INVERCARGILL.--LAKE WAKATIPU.--MINING AT QUEENSTOWN. 268
CHAPTER XIII.
FROM NEW ZEALAND TO AUSTRALIA.--ARRIVAL AT SYDNEY.--HOW THE
CITY WAS FOUNDED.--ITS APPEARANCE TO-DAY.--THE PRINCIPAL
STREETS, PARKS, AND SUBURBS.--PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--SHOOTING
SYDNEY DUCKS.--THE TRANSPORTATION SYSTEM.--HOW AUSTRALIA WAS
COLONIZED.--LIFE AND TREATMENT OF CONVICTS IN AUSTRALIA.--THE
END OF TRANSPORTATION.--POPULAR ERRORS OF INVOLUNTARY
EMIGRANTS.--THE PAPER COMPASS.--TICKET-OF-LEAVE MEN.--
EMANCIPISTS AND THEIR STATUS.--SYDNEY HARBOR.--STEAM LINES TO
ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD.--CIRCULAR QUAY.--DRY-DOCKS.--EXCURSIONS
TO PARAMATTA AND BOTANY BAY.--HOSPITALITIES OF SYDNEY. 293
CHAPTER XIV.
FROM SYDNEY TO BRISBANE.--POLITICAL DIVISIONS OF AUSTRALIA.--
ORDER IN WHICH THE COLONIES WERE FOUNDED.--EXPLORATIONS AND
THEIR EXTENT.--DOCTOR BASS AND CAPTAIN FLINDERS.--ABSENCE OF
WATER IN THE INTERIOR OF AUSTRALIA.--A COUNTRY OF STRANGE
CHARACTERISTICS.--NATURE'S REVERSES.--HOW THE COLONIES ARE
GOVERNED.--RELIGION AND EDUCATION.--JEALOUSY OF THE COLONIES
TOWARDS EACH OTHER.--NEWCASTLE AND ITS COAL.--RAILWAY
TRAVELLING IN NEW SOUTH WALES.--TENTERFIELD AND STANTHORPE.--
COBB'S COACHES.--AUSTRALIAN SCENERY.--THE EUCALYPTUS, OR
GUM-TREE, THE TALLEST TREES IN THE WORLD.--SILVER STEMS AND
MALLKE SCRUB.--BRISBANE.--RELICS OF THE CONVICT SYSTEM.--QUEEN
STREET AND THE BOTANICAL GARDENS. 317
CHAPTER XV.
LEAVING BRISBANE.--THE REGIONS AROUND THE CITY.--QUEENSLAND
SCRUB AND FOREST LAND.--FRUITS AND GARDEN PRODUCE.--TROUBLES
OF THE EARLY SETTLERS.--IPSWICH AND ITS COAL-MINES.--
WINE-MAKING IN AUSTRALIA.--CHARACTER OF AUSTRALIAN WINES.--
THE LABOR QUESTION.--POLYNESIAN AND CHINESE LABORERS.--
POPULATION OF QUEENSLAND.--NATIVES AND ABORIGINES.--
PECULIARITIES OF THE BLACK RACE.--CATTLE TRACKERS AND THEIR
ABILITIES.--HOW THE ABORIGINALS LIVE: THEIR HOMES, WEAPONS,
AND MODE OF LIFE.--AUSTRALIAN MYTHS AND SUPERSTITIONS.--
CURIOUS THEORIES OF RESURRECTION.--SMOKE AND FIRE SIGNALS.--
HOW A WANDERING WHITE MAN SAVED HIS LIFE.--RELIGIOUS IDEAS.--
HOW THE EEL MADE THE FROG LAUGH.--THE BUN-YIP AND HIS
WONDERFUL ATTRIBUTES. 388
CHAPTER XVI.
RIDING THROUGH THE BUSH.--AUSTRALIAN HOSPITALITY.--ARRIVAL AT
THE STATION.--THE BUILDINGS AND THEIR SURROUNDINGS.--A SNAKE
IN FRED'S BED.--SNAKES IN AUSTRALIA.--UNDERWOOD'S REMEDY FOR
SNAKE-BITES, AND WHAT CAME OF IT.--CENTIPEDES AND SCORPIONS.--A
VENOMOUS SPIDER.--NOCTURNAL NOISES AT A CATTLE-STATION.--HORSES
AND THEIR TRAITS.--BUCK-JUMPING AND ROUGH-RIDING.--HOW A "NEW
CHUM" CATCHES A HORSE.--ENDURANCE OF HORSES.--AMONG THE HERDS
OF CATTLE.--RIDE TO A CATTLE-CAMP.--DAILY LIFE OF THE
STOCK-MEN.--CASTE IN AUSTRALIA.--SQUATTERS AND FREE
SELECTORS.--HORRIBLE ACCIDENTS IN THE BUSH.--A MAN EATEN ALIVE
BY ANTS.--BURNED TO DEATH UNDER A FALLEN TREE.--CHASING AN
EMU.--ROUSING A FLOCK OF WILD TURKEYS. 359
CHAPTER XVII.
CATTLE AND SHEEP RAISING IN QUEENSLAND.--GRASS THAT KILLS
SHEEP.--PROFITS OF RAISING CATTLE.--RELATIVE ADVANTAGES OF THE
TWO ENTERPRISES.--INCREASE OF FLOCKS AND HERDS.--STATISTICS.--
LIVE-STOCK IN QUEENSLAND.--VISITING A SHEEP-STATION.--DUTIES OF
A GOOD SHEPHERD.--INSANE TENDENCIES OF SHEPHERDS.--MONOTONY OF
THEIR LIVES.--DISAGREEABLE WORK FOR NOVICES.--SHEEP-SHEARING,
AND HOW IT IS PERFORMED.--PACKING AND SHIPPING WOOL.--AMUSING
STORY OF A STOLEN HORSE.--THE MINER WHO HID HIS GOLD IN A
HORSE-COLLAR.--BUSH-RANGERS AND THEIR PERFORMANCES.--"STICKING
UP."--"OLIVER, THE TERROR OF THE NORTH."--HELD BY A WOODEN
LEG.--TRICK OF A DISHONEST GENIUS.--PEARL-FISHING IN AUSTRALIAN
WATERS: HOW THE BUSINESS IS CONDUCTED.--ALLIGATORS.--THE
"CARDWELL PET."--SUNDOWNERS. 382
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE PLAGUE OF FLIES IN AUSTRALIA.--OTHER CREEPING AND FLYING
THINGS.--LAUGHING-JACKASSES, BOWER-BIRDS, LYRE-BIRDS, PARROTS,
ETC.--TRICKS OF THE LYRE-BIRD.--ORIGIN OF THE BOWER-BIRD'S
NAME.--BLACK SWANS AND WILD-DUCKS.--SNIPE, QUAIL, AND OTHER
BIRDS.--AUSTRALIAN RIVERS AND THEIR PECULIARITIES.--RETURN TO
THE COAST.--GYMPIE AND THE GOLD-MINES OF QUEENSLAND.--AN
AUSTRALIAN GOLD RUSH.--DOWN THE COAST TO SYDNEY.--THE GREAT
BARRIER REEF: ITS EXTENT AND PECULIARITIES.--SPORT IN NORTHERN
QUEENSLAND.--GOING UP-COUNTRY IN NEW SOUTH WALES.--A KANGAROO
HUNT.--DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A HUNT AND A DRIVE.--AUSTRALIAN
MARSUPIALS.--SHOOTING WILD HORSES.--KILLING AN "OLD MAN"
KANGAROO.--DINGOES.--STORIES OF KANGAROO HUNTS. 407
CHAPTER XIX.
A NATIVE ENCAMPMENT AND A CORROBOREE.--RIDING ACROSS-COUNTRY.--
AMONG THE BLACKS.--NATIVE DANCES.--A WEIRD SCENE.--ABORIGINAL
MUSIC.--STORIES ABOUT CORROBOREES.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS.--HOW THE
BLACK MEN OBTAIN THEIR WIVES.--TESTING THE STOICISM OF
YOUTHS.--AN ALARM AT NIGHT.--RETURN TO SYDNEY.--A
BRICKFIELDER.--HOT WINDS FROM THE DESERT.--HOW A PICNIC WAS
BROKEN UP.--OVER THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.--RAILWAYS IN NEW SOUTH
WALES.--SALUBRITY OF THE MOUNTAIN CLIMATE.--GOULBURN.--
THEATRICAL GOSSIP.--FIRST THEATRE IN AUSTRALIA.--A CONVICT'S
PROLOGUE.--THE DRAMA UNDER DISADVANTAGES.--THE RIVERINA.--
ALBURY AND THE VICTORIAN FRONTIER.--PROTECTION AND
FREE-TRADE.--FISHING IN THE MURRAY RIVER.--AUSTRALIAN
FISHES.--FROM ALBURY TO MELBOURNE. 429
CHAPTER XX.
THE FOUNDING OF MELBOURNE.--BATMAN AND FAWKNER.--GROWTH OF
MELBOURNE, CHICAGO, AND SAN FRANCISCO COMPARED.--SIGHTS AND
SCENES IN THE AUSTRALIAN METROPOLIS.--COLLINS STREET, BOURKE
STREET, AND OTHER THOROUGHFARES.--A GENERAL DESCRIPTION.--THE
YARRA RIVER.--BOTANICAL GARDENS.--DINING AT A SUBURBAN
RESIDENCE.--THE SUBURBS OF MELBOURNE.--HOW ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS
BECAME ONE MILLION IN FIFTY YEARS.--SANDRIDGE (PORT
MELBOURNE).--SCENES IN THE HARBOR.--REMINISCENCES OF THE GOLD
RUSH OF 1851.--BUSH-RANGERS AND THEIR PERFORMANCES.--PLUNDERING
A SHIP IN PORT.--HOBSON'S BAY AND PORT PHILLIP BAY.--
WILLIAMSTOWN AND ST. KILDA.--SHARK FENCES.--QUEENSCLIFF.--
CURIOUS ROCKS ON THE COAST.--GEELONG.--MELBOURNE NEWSPAPERS. 452
CHAPTER XXI.
THE RACE FOR THE MELBOURNE CUP.--POPULARITY OF HORSE-RACING IN
AUSTRALIA.--CRICKET AND OTHER SPORTS.--SUMMER RETREATS AMONG
THE MOUNTAINS OVERLOOKING MELBOURNE.--"A SOUTHERLY BURSTER:"
ITS PECULIARITIES.--RAPID FALL OF THE THERMOMETER.--FLOODING
THE STREETS OF MELBOURNE.--CHILDREN DROWNED IN THE GUTTERS.--
BALLARAT AND THE GOLD-MINES.--HISTORY OF THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD
IN AUSTRALIA.--THE RUSH TO BALLARAT AND BENDIGO.--SANDHURST:
ITS PRESENT APPEARANCE.--REMARKABLE YIELD OF THE BALLARAT
MINES.--"THE WELCOME NUGGET."--WESTERN DISTRICT OF VICTORIA.--
LAKE SCENERY.--AUSTRALIA'S POTATO-FIELD.--GIPPSLAND.--FROM
MELBOURNE TO TASMANIA.--LAUNCESTON.--A CHAPTER OF TASMANIAN
HISTORY.--MEMORIES OF CONVICT DAYS.--CORRA LINN AND OTHER
SHOW-PLACES. 474
CHAPTER XXII.
EXCURSION TO DELORAINE.--THE CHUDLEIGH CAVES.--FROM LAUNCESTON
TO HOBART.--ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS.--THE OLD WAGON-ROAD BUILT BY
CONVICTS.--DEATH OF THE LAST TASMANIAN.--HOW THE ABORIGINES
WERE DESTROYED.--A WONDERFUL TIN-MINE.--HOBART: ITS CLIMATE AND
ATTRACTIONS.--LOVELINESS OF TASMANIAN LADIES.--PORT ARTHUR.--
DOGS AT THE NECK.--FROM HOBART TO ADELAIDE.--ARRIVAL IN SOUTH
AUSTRALIA.--ADELAIDE: ITS PRINCIPAL FEATURES.--A RIVER THAT IS
NOT A RIVER.--CHURCHES AND RELIGIONS.--POPULATION OF THE CAPITAL
AND COLONY.--EXTENSIVE WHEAT-FARMS.--PRODUCTS OF SOUTH
AUSTRALIA.--FRUIT-GROWING.--GLENELG.--THE HISTORIC GUM-TREE.--
PARKS AND GARDENS.--OVERLAND TO PORT DARWIN.--HOW THE TELEGRAPH
WAS BUILT.--EXPLORATIONS OF STURT AND STUART.--CAMELS IN
AUSTRALIA.--A SIDE-SADDLE CAMEL.--AN AFFECTING INCIDENT.--THE
OVERLAND RAILWAY. 497
CHAPTER XXIII.
AUSTRALIAN EXPLORATIONS.--THE BLUE MOUNTAINS FIRST TRAVERSED.--
DISCOVERY OF THE LACHLAN, MACQUARIE, MURRUMBIDGEE, AND MURRAY
RIVERS.--EXPLORATIONS OF STURT, MITCHELL, CUNNINGHAM, HUME,
AND OTHERS.--EYRE'S JOURNEY ALONG THE SOUTHERN COAST.--
SUFFERINGS AND PERILS.--BURKE AND WILLS: HOW THEY PERISHED IN
THE WILDERNESS.--MONUMENT TO THEIR MEMORY.--COLONEL WARBURTON
AND HIS CAMEL-TRAIN.--STRAPPED TO A CAMEL'S BACK.--PRESENT
KNOWLEDGE OF THE AUSTRALIAN DESERT.--ABORIGINALS OF SOUTH
AUSTRALIA.--THROWING THE BOOMERANG.--A REMARKABLE EXHIBITION.--
ORIGIN OF THE BOOMERANG.--DUCK-BILLED PLATYPUS: A PUZZLE FOR
THE NATURALISTS.--VISITING A COPPER-MINE.--MINERAL RESOURCES
OF THE COLONY.--WESTERN AUSTRALIA.--ALBANY, ON KING GEORGE
SOUND.--DESCRIPTION OF THE COLONY.--CURIOUS POISON-PLANTS.--
FAREWELL TO AUSTRALIA.--THE END. 518
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Mount Kosciusko, the Highest Peak in Australia _Frontispiece._
Map of Australasia _Front Cover._
Map of Australia, New Zealand, and Tasmania _Back Cover._
Royal School, Honolulu 1
The Physalia 2
The Island of Oahu 3
General View of Honolulu 4
In the Harbor of Honolulu 5
Queen's Hospital, Honolulu 6
Kealakeakua Bay, where Captain Cook was Killed 7
Mrs. Thurston, one of the Missionaries of 1820 8
Kawaiaho Church--First Native Church in Honolulu 9
Bethel Church 10
Native School-house in Honolulu 10
The Court-house in Honolulu 11
Native Gentleman of Honolulu 12
Hawaiian Poi-dealer 13
The Hawaiian Archipelago 14
Hawaiians at a Feast 15
Native Hay Peddler 16
Dress of Hawaiian Women 18
Ancient Idols of Hawaii 19
Grass House, Hawaiian Islands 20
Government Buildings, Honolulu 21
Hawaiian Dancing-girls 22
Map of the Sandwich Isles 23
Lahaina, Island of Maui 25
Women on Horseback, Honolulu 26
A Mountain Valley 27
Hawaiian Temple 28
Mountain Scene in the Sandwich Islands 29
Hilo 31
Surf-bathing at Hilo 32
The Volcano House 33
View of one of the Burning Lakes 35
View on a Lava Field 37
Hawaiian Warriors a Century ago 38
Chain of Extinct Volcanoes, Island of Kauai 39
Map of the Haleakala Crater 41
Kamehameha I., First King of the Sandwich Islands 42
Water-fall on Island of Kauai 43
Implements of Domestic Life 44
Hawaiian Pipe 45
Looking Seaward 48
The Owner of the Yacht 49
"Good-by!" 49
At Home on the "Pera" 50
Below Deck in the Tropics 51
On the Coast of the Marquesas 53
A View in Nookaheeva 55
Gattanewa's Portrait 56
Tattoo Marks on a Chief of the Marquesas 57
The Chief's Daughter 59
A European's Residence in the Marquesas 61
A Marquesan Village 63
Catholic Missionary 64
In a Gale near the Marquesas 65
Commodore Porter's Fleet in Nookaheeva Bay 66
Easter Island House and Children 67
Lava Rock Image, Easter Island 68
Easter Island Man 69
Easter Island Woman 70
Stone Tablet of Character Writing 71
Stone Platform for Images 72
Coast Scenery, Tahiti 74
Specimen of Coral 75
The Coral Worm 76
On the Shore of the Lagoon 77
A Cabin in the Suburbs 78
The Coast in a Storm 79
A French Bishop 81
View in an Orange-grove 82
Native Bamboo House, Tahiti 83
Natives of the Society Islands Fishing 84
A Sea-urchin 85
The Bottom of the Lagoon 86
Sea-anemone and Hermit-crab 87
Hermit-crab and Sea-shell 88
View among the Coral Branches 89
A Fish inside a Sea-slug 90
Coralline 91
Octopus, or Devil-fish 92
Stingaree, or Sea-devil 92
Garden of a Suburban Residence 93
Gathering Oranges for the Feast 95
Tamarind-tree at Point Venus 97
A Grove of Cocoanut-trees 98
Running before the Trade-winds 99
Dr. Coan, Missionary to Hawaii 100
No Respect for Missionaries 101
Trading Station in the Pacific 103
John Wesley, the Founder of Methodism 104
Mission Church and Station 105
Mission Park Monument 106
Mission Ship on her Voyage 107
Landing on an Atoll of the Hervey Group 109
Cocoa Palms in the Hervey Islands 111
Native Houses and Canoe 113
Missionary Station on Aneityum Island 115
Tanna Islander on a Queensland Plantation 116
Group of Islanders on a Feejeean Plantation 117
Firing down the Hatchway 118
The "Rosario" chasing a Man-stealing Schooner 119
A Witness for the Defence 120
Indian Girl House-servant in Feejee 121
Samoan double Canoe 122
Coral Architects in Samoan Waters 123
A Beach-comber 124
Growth of Coral on a Mountain slowly Subsiding 125
Ass's Ears, Florida Island 126
A House in the Tonga Islands 127
Native Teacher, Upolu, Samoan Islands 129
Map of the South Sea Islands 131
Crabs eating Cocoanuts 132
A Plantation in the South Sea Islands 133
A Fair Wind 134
Bread-fruit 135
War Canoe of the Olden Time 137
Canoes drawn on Shore 138
Captain James Cook 139
An American Resident 140
Cave near the Picnic Ground 141
Massacre Bay 143
A Village in Vanikoro 144
Hat Island, west of Vanikoro 145
Louis XVI. and La Pérouse 146
A Native of Feejee 147
A Royal Attendant 148
Ancient Feejee Temple 149
A Polynesian Idol 151
A Coast Scene in Kandavu 152
A Planter's Residence 153
A New Arrival 154
Going to Feejee 155
Scene on a Cotton Plantation 156
Sugar-cane Mill 157
Feejeean Head-dress 158
An Accomplished Liar 159
Fork of a Cannibal King 160
Tanoa, former King of Feejee 161
A Cannibal Dance 162
Skull found at the Banquet Ground 162
View in a Valley of the Interior of the Island 163
Avenue of Palms 165
A Part of Levuka 166
Fred's Fly 167
Frank's Mosquito 167
One Variety of Sea-worm 169
Going for Balola 170
Ancient Feejeean War-dance 171
Moonlight on the Waters 172
Mission Church in the Feejee Islands 174
Going to Church.--River Scene 175
Feejeean Head 176
Feejeean Weapons 176
Telling the Story 177
Formation of Clouds before a Feejeean Hurricane 178
After the Storm 179
Coast Scene in a Calm 179
Lost in the Hurricane 180
Mota, or Sugar-loaf Island 181
Two-tree Island 181
A Young Student 182
Stone Monument, Tongataboo 183
A Volcano in the Pacific 184
An Island Cavern 185
Islands on the Coast 186
Auckland in 1840 187
View of Auckland from Mount Eden 189
Mission Station at Tangiteroria, New Zealand 190
Early Days in New Zealand 191
In a State of Decadence 193
A Kainga Maori (Native) Village 195
Carved New Zealand Chest 196
Maori War Clubs 197
Lake in the Crater of an Extinct Volcano 198
Sawing a Kauri Pine 199
Stock-farm in the Suburbs 200
A Water-oak 201
A Pakeha Maori 202
A Pakeha Maori's Home 203
View of a Part of Auckland and its Harbor 204
Maori Tattooing 205
Inland Scenery 206
Captain Cook's Gift to the Maoris 207
Skeleton of the Extinct Moa (Dinornis) 209
Dressing Flax 210
Family of Deer on Kawau Island 212
Prospecting for Gold 213
Stamp-mill at Grahamstown 214
"Struck a Pocket" 215
Gold-mining on the Sea-shore 217
A Miner's Camp in the Mountains 218
Visiting a Mine 219
Inland Scenery 221
Among the Hot Springs 223
The Baths at Rotomahana 224
Hotel Life at the Hot Lakes 225
A Mud Crater 227
The White Terraces, seen from above 229
The Pink Terraces, seen from below 231
Lake Tarawera, in the Hot Lake District 233
The Tabu Removed 234
Maori Village of Wairoa, in the Hot Lake District 235
A Maori Prophet in the King Country 236
British Soldiers attacking a Maori Pah 237
Outworks of a Maori Pah 239
In the Harbor 240
In Napier for his Health 241
Scene on a Sheep Farm.--Off to the Pasture 243
Farm Scenes in the Open Country 244
On the Coast near Wellington 246
Just down from the Interior 247
Mountain and Lake in New Zealand 249
Just arrived from England 250
A Promenader 251
An Afternoon Call 252
Sewing-class in an Industrial School 253
Residence of the Governor, Wellington 255
Down the Slope 257
Logging in "the Bush" 258
Settlers' Cabins in the Open Country 259
Mount Egmont and Ranges 261
Home Scene at Christchurch 263
Harvest-time in Canterbury 264
Maid-servant off Duty 266
Gardening in the Park 267
Under the Shears 268
A Sheep-shearing Shed in New Zealand 269
A Flock of Sheep among the Hills 271
Sheep and Herder killed in a Snow-storm 273
Reducing the Rabbit Population 274
Parrots 277
A New Zealand Pest 277
A Steam Threshing-machine 278
English Sparrows at Home 280
Class in the Industrial School 282
A Perilous Night-watch 283
The Summit of Mount Cook 285
Attempt to climb the Eastern Spur 286
River issuing from a Glacier 287
Hydraulic Mining 288
A Squatter's Home 289
A Mountain Water-fall 290
Shotover Gorge Bridge 291
On the Shore of the Lake 292
Bound for Sydney 293
Entrance to Port Jackson 294
General View of Sydney Harbor 295
Statue of Captain Cook, Sydney 297
George III. 298
Avenue in the Botanical Gardens 299
Candidates for Transportation 301
Sydney and its Harbor 303
The Town-hall, Sydney 305
Sentenced to Hard Labor 307
View of Sydney from Pyrmont, Darling Harbor 309
Home of an Emancipist 310
A Ticket-of-leave Man 311
Just arrived in Port 312
Ship-yard Scene 313
On the Paramatta River 314
Irrigating an Orange-grove 315
Interior of a Coal-breaker 317
Gold-fields of Mount Alexander, Australia 319
Clearing in an Australian Forest 321
A Waterless Region 322
Australian Lyre-birds 323
A Member of the Legislature 325
Infant Class in an Industrial School 327
Completing the Railway 329
A Fallen Giant 330
Silver-stem Eucalypti 332
From Tenterfield to Stanthorpe 333
A Balcony 335
Palm-trees in the Botanical Gardens 336
"No more Tricks at the Wheel" 337
A Relic of Old Colonial Times 338
Among the Foot-hills 340
Picking Figs 341
A Clearing in the Scrub 342
Suburban Residence on the River's Bank 343
Gathering the Grapes 344
Cellars for Storing Wine 346
Chinese Laborers in a Vineyard 347
Aboriginal Australian 348
West Coast Australians 349
Civilized Aborigines 351
Aboriginal Method of making Fire 352
Australian Warriors watching a Boat 353
Battle between Hostile Tribes of Australians 354
Aboriginal Australians and their Huts 355
Aboriginal Children playing in the Water 357
The Haunt of the Bun-yip 358
The Team 359
Pets at the Station 360
The Tiger Snake 361
Camping-out on a Cattle-run 363
The Poisonous Spider (magnified) 364
The Prosperous Squatter 365
"I'm waiting for You" 366
Performance of a Bucker 366
The Milking yard 367
Coming in from Pasture 368
An Australian Stock-rider 369
An Unsteady Seat 370
A New Chum's First Ride 371
A Stampede 372
A Free Selector at Home 373
Arrival of the Weekly Mail 374
"Cutting Out" 375
Mustering Cattle 377
Branding a Calf 378
Died alone in "the Bush" 379
The Emu 380
The Pride of the Station 382
The Squatter's Pet 383
Cattle going to Water 384
A Home in the Bush 385
Herd of Mixed Cattle on a Station 387
A Shepherd's Dog 388
Ewes and Lambs 389
Mother of a Family 390
Sheep-shearing in Australia 391
Sheds and Chicken-yard of a Station 393
Sheep-washing on the Modern Plan 395
The Rush for the Gold-mines 397
Bush-ranger out of Luck 398
Bush-rangers at Work 399
Leading Citizens of Somerset 401
Pearl Oyster 402
Australian Pearls (full size) 402
Big Ben and his Friends 404
Waiting for Sunset 405
Evening Scene at an Up-country Station 406
An Australian Pest 407
The Sand-flea (natural size and magnified) 408
The Australian Bower-bird 409
Wallace's Standard-wing Birds-of-paradise, male and female 411
Head of the Valley Quail 412
A Quail Family 413
Out Prospecting 414
Quartz mill in the Gold-mines 415
Australian Gold-hunters 416
A Gold-miner's Home 417
A Chinese Discussion 418
Wrecked on the Reef 420
The Manatee, or Dugong 421
Evening at Home on the North Coast 422
Dingoes, or Australian Wild Dogs 423
Australian Wild Horses 424
A Kangaroo Battue, or Drive 425
Red Kangaroo 426
Short eared Kangaroo 426
Kangaroos in Captivity 428
A Corroboree 431
Something for Breakfast 432
Near the Camp 433
An Australian Courtship 434
The Night Alarm 435
Reception of a Brickfielder 437
A Brickfielder putting in its Work 438
Building a Railway on the Plains 439
Zigzag Railway in the Blue Mountains 441
The Blue Mountains 442
On the Head-waters of the Murray River 443
Gallery of a Theatre during a Performance 445
Scene in the Riverina 447
Steamboat on the Murray River 449
Fish-hatching Boxes on a small Stream 450
Immigrant's Camp in the Foot-hills of the Range 451
The Founding of Melbourne, August, 1835 453
Public Library, Melbourne 454
Melbourne Post-office 455
Government House, Melbourne 456
Collins Street in 1870 457
Public Offices and Treasury Gardens 458
Town-hall, Melbourne 459
View from South Melbourne, 1868 460
Part of Melbourne in 1838 461
A Suburban Residence 463
Harbor Scene in the Moonlight 465
Boarding-house of 1851 466
A Good Location for Business 467
Loading a Ship from a Lighter 468
The Artillery Rocks, near Lorne, on the Coast of Victoria 471
Waiting to see the Editor 472
Distributing Papers to Newsboys 473
The Race for the Melbourne Cup 475
Head of a Winner 476
A Cricket-match 477
Summer Retreat in the Mountains 479
Caught in a "Burster" on the Australian Coast 481
Seeking Shelter 482
Pioneer Gold-hunters 483
Map of the Gold-fields of Victoria Twenty Years ago 484
Edward Hargreaves, the Gold Discoverer 485
The Rush to Ballarat 486
Lake Scenery 487
A Gippsland Settler 489
The Peach Harvest 491
A Cottage in the Suburbs of Launceston 492
An Old Settler 493
At Bay in the Bush 494
A Camp in the Bush 495
Entrance to Cave 497
Near Deloraine 498
Australia at the Feet of Tasmania 500
Old Convict Church, Port Arthur, Tasmania 501
One of the Watch dogs 502
"Land, ho!" 502
On the Pier 503
Post-office and Town hall, Adelaide 505
Adelaide in 1837 507
Reaping Brigade at Work 509
Proclamation Tree at Glenelg, near Adelaide 510
Victoria Regia House, Botanic Garden, Adelaide 511
Exploring Expedition on the March 513
Camp Scene on the Desert Plains of South Australia 515
Government House and Grounds, Adelaide 517
Ready for the Start 519
Explorers in Camp 520
Monument to Burke and Wills, Melbourne 521
Colonel Warburton strapped to his Camel 523
Desert Scenery 525
The Way of Civilization 526
A Boomerang 526
A War-dance of Australian Blacks 527
Americans who use the Boomerang 529
Platypus, or Duck-billed Mole 530
Home of the Duck-bill 531
One of the Miners 532
View of Perth, Capital of Western Australia 533
Forest Scene in the South-west 535
A Kid-gloved Colonist 536
In the Pasture Lands 537
Rocks at the Cape 538
[Illustration]
THE BOY TRAVELLERS
IN
AUSTRALASIA.
CHAPTER I.
FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU.--SIGHTS ON THE PACIFIC OCEAN.--A
PORTUGUESE MAN-OF-WAR.--NEARING THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.--THE MOLOKAI
CHANNEL.--SURF-BEATEN SHORES OF OAHU.--ARRIVAL AT HONOLULU.--A
PICTURESQUE PORT.--DISCOVERY AND HISTORY OF THE SANDWICH
ISLANDS.--CAPTAIN COOK.--HIS TRAGIC DEATH.--HOW THE PEOPLE HAVE BEEN
CIVILIZED.--WORK OF THE MISSIONARIES.--SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES.--PRESENT
CONDITION OF THE POPULATION.--OLD CUSTOMS.--SIGHTS AND SCENES IN
HONOLULU.--TARO AND POI.--A NATIVE DINNER.--THE COSTUMES OF THE
ISLANDERS.--PECULIARITIES OF THE CLIMATE.--THE HULA-HULA AND OTHER
DANCES.
"Land, ho!" from the mast-head.
"Where away?" from the bridge.
"Dead ahead, sir!" was the reply; but it was almost drowned by the buzz
of excitement which the announcement produced. The passengers, who had
been strolling about the decks or listlessly lounging in their chairs,
rushed hastily forward, in their eagerness to catch a glimpse of the
land which had been reported "dead ahead."
This happened on board the steamship _Alameda_, early one pleasant
afternoon as she was nearing the Sandwich Islands on a voyage from San
Francisco. There were three passengers who did not join in the scramble
towards the bow of the ship, but remained quietly seated in their
chairs. They had been through the experience of sighting land from a
steamer at sea too many times to regard it as a novelty.
They were our old friends, Doctor Bronson and his nephews, Frank Bassett
and Fred Bronson, whose experiences and adventures in various parts of
the world are familiar to many American youths. Not content with what
they had seen in Asia, Africa, and Europe, they were now bound on a
voyage to the antipodes with the intention of adding another volume to
the series in which their wanderings are recorded.[1]
[1] "The Boy Travellers in the Far East" (five volumes), and "The Boy
Travellers in South America," "The Boy Travellers in the Russian
Empire," and "The Boy Travellers on the Congo" (three volumes). See
complete list at the end of this book.
[Illustration: ROYAL SCHOOL, HONOLULU.]
It was on the eighth day of a voyage over the lovely azure waters of the
broad Pacific that the _Alameda_ neared the land, and many of her
passengers half regretted that they were about to separate. The weather
had been delightful, the breezes were light, the sky was nearly always
clear, and the temperature high enough to make thick clothing
uncomfortably warm, and an awning over the deck desirable. Since the
second day out from San Francisco not a sail had been seen, as the
sailing-ships take another track in order to obtain stronger and more
favoring winds. Four or five whales had shown themselves, and a few
schools of porpoises played around the vessel from time to time as
though they wished to make the acquaintance of the strange monster.
[Illustration: THE PHYSALIA.]
Flying-fish were numerous, and so were those curious denizens of the
deep popularly known as "Portuguese men-of-war." One of the latter was
caught by means of a bucket; a verdant passenger who admired its
beautiful colors took it in his hand for a careful examination, but on
feeling a stinging sensation he dropped it immediately. Doctor Bronson
consoled him with the information that the scientific name of the
Portuguese man-of-war is _Physalis pelagica_, and its power of stinging
enables it to benumb its prey. It consists principally of an air-sac
which floats it upon the water, and has long tentacles hanging down at
various lengths. These tentacles are armed with stings; they paralyze
any small fish that comes within their reach, and then act as fingers to
sweep up the prize. It is a favorite trick of sailors to induce a novice
to pick up a captured physalia, so that they may enjoy his haste in
dropping it.
[Illustration: THE ISLAND OF OAHU.]
As the _Alameda_ continued her course the outline of the land grew more
and more distinct, revealing the rugged volcanic cliffs of Oahu, and
reminding the passengers of the burning mountains for which the Sandwich
Islands are famous. The course of the vessel lay through the Molokai
Channel, leaving Molokai Island on the left, and hugging closely against
the surf-beaten shores of Oahu, on which the capital, Honolulu, is
situated. Near the water there were occasional groves of cocoanut-trees;
but on the whole the shore was less tropical in appearance than our
young friends had expected to find it.
[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF HONOLULU.]
Every eye was straining to catch a view of Honolulu; but when its
position was pointed out most of the passengers were unable to discover
any marked indications of the presence of a town. After a time the
steamer made a sharp turn to the starboard, and passed through the
narrow channel which leads into the pretty harbor of Honolulu. Then the
town appeared rather suddenly in view; its houses surrounded by groves
of palms and tamarind-trees, interspersed with other tropical growths
in rich profusion. The harbor is a deep basin in a coral reef, and so
perfectly landlocked that it is ordinarily as smooth as a mill-pond, and
is safe in all winds that blow. There is good anchorage for ships, and
when the _Alameda_ entered there was a fleet of sufficient size in the
port to give it a very prosperous appearance. Numerous small boats were
darting about, and almost before the engines were stopped the little
craft swarmed in great force about the steamer.
[Illustration: IN THE HARBOR OF HONOLULU.]
Back of Honolulu rises a series of volcanic mountains three or four
thousand feet high, and from the town itself to the foot of these
mountains the ground rises in a gentle slope, so that the view from the
harbor is an excellent one. Doctor Bronson called the attention of the
youths to a valley opening through the mountains, and to the contrast
between the cliffs and slopes, and the bright waters immediately around
them. All agreed that the place was very prettily situated, and the
view was a great relief after the monotonous voyage from San Francisco.
As soon as possible the party left the steamer and proceeded to the
hotel, and, without waiting to see the rooms assigned to them, started
out for a sight-seeing stroll. They desired to make the most of their
time, as they expected to continue their journey in a week or ten days
at farthest. The _Alameda_ was to return to San Francisco as soon as she
could land her cargo and receive another; the regular mail steamer for
Australia would touch at Honolulu at the time indicated, and it was by
this steamer they were to proceed southward.
[Illustration: QUEEN'S HOSPITAL, HONOLULU.]
As they walked along the streets, accompanied by a guide whom they had
engaged at the hotel, Doctor Bronson gave the youths a brief history of
the Sandwich Islands, which Fred afterwards committed to paper lest it
might escape his memory. Substantially it was as follows:
"The famous navigator Captain Cook has the credit of discovering these
islands in 1778, but they were known to the Spaniards more than a
century before that time. The death of Captain Cook served to bring the
islands into prominence; he named them after Lord Sandwich, who was then
First Lord of the Admiralty, but they are known here as the Hawaiian
Islands, Hawaii being the largest of the group."
"That is the island where Captain Cook was killed, is it not?" inquired
one of the youths.
[Illustration: KEALAKEAKUA BAY, WHERE CAPTAIN COOK WAS KILLED.]
"Yes," was the reply. "It was at Kealakeakua Bay, in sight of the great
volcano of Mauna Loa. The famous navigator did not get along well with
the natives, who, like nearly all savages, were addicted to thieving.
One of his boats having been stolen, he determined to seize the King and
hold him a prisoner until the boat was returned. For this purpose he
landed with a lieutenant and nine men; the natives suspected his
intentions, and a fight ensued, which resulted in his death."
"And they devoured him, it is said," Frank remarked.
"As to that," replied the Doctor, "there has been much dispute. Captain
King, the successor of Cook, and historian of the expedition after the
latter's death, positively declares that the body of Cook was eaten,
along with the bodies of the sailors and marines who were killed at the
same time. On the other hand, the islanders declare with equal
positiveness that cannibalism did not exist here at that time; and
though great indignities might have been perpetrated, the horrible
accusation is untrue. At this distance of time it is impossible to say
what happened, and we will dismiss the subject. But it is generally
conceded that the great navigator owed his death to his severity in
dealing with the natives, and his imprudence in venturing on shore with
the small force which accompanied him.
"But we'll leave the famous captain at rest," continued the Doctor,
"while we give our attention to more modern things. Great changes have
taken place in the hundred years or so that have elapsed since Captain
Cook's death. Then the people were savages and idolaters; now they are
civilized and Christianized, and may be considered a harmless and kindly
disposed race. Education is universal among them, hardly a native of
Hawaii being unable to read and write. Every child is obliged to attend
the public schools, and there is a special school-tax of two dollars on
every voter, in addition to a general tax for educational purposes.
Schools are in every part of the islands where there is any population,
and the teachers are paid out of the taxes I have mentioned."
"I suppose the missionaries are to be credited with the spread of
education here, are they not?" one of the youths asked.
[Illustration: MRS. THURSTON, ONE OF THE MISSIONARIES OF 1820.]
"Yes," was the reply; "and there have been no more earnest and energetic
missionaries anywhere in the world than those that came to the Hawaiian
Islands. The first missionaries arrived here in 1820, and for
thirty-three years the mission enterprise was supported by contributions
in the United States and elsewhere. In that time the donations of
Christian people in the United States for the conversion of the
inhabitants of the Hawaiian Islands amounted to more than nine hundred
thousand dollars."
"What was done at the end of that time?" Fred asked.
"In 1853 the missionaries reported that the people of the Hawaiian
Islands had been converted to Christianity, and that idolatry no longer
existed among them. Then it was voted by the American Board of Missions
that 'the Sandwich Islands, having been Christianized, shall no longer
receive aid from this Board.' From that time the churches have been
practically self-supporting, though they have received some aid from
America. At present the Hawaiian Islands have a missionary society of
their own which is sending missionaries and teachers into other islands
of the Pacific; and they have a printing-office, where Bibles are
printed in several Polynesian languages--just as Bibles were formerly
printed in New York for the use of the Sandwich Islanders."
[Illustration: KAWAIAHO CHURCH--FIRST NATIVE CHURCH IN HONOLULU.]
Here the guide interrupted them to point out Kawaiaho church, which he
said was the first native church in Honolulu, a substantial and
well-built edifice that reminded the strangers of many churches they had
seen in the New England States. In reply to Frank's remark to this
effect Doctor Bronson said that the most of the early missionaries came
from Boston and its vicinity, and it was therefore to be expected that
the churches would be of the New England pattern.
[Illustration: BETHEL CHURCH.]
Fred asked if the church they were passing was the first ever built in
the islands. The guide explained that it was the first _native_ church,
but not the first American one. That honor belongs to the Seamen's (or
Bethel) church, which was sent from Boston in a whale-ship around Cape
Horn; it was brought in pieces, and set up soon after the ship arrived
here. Honolulu has been for a long time a great resort for whalemen, and
about 1846 special attention was paid to their needs by the
establishment of a Bethel church and society.
The most famous man in connection with this branch of the missionary
enterprise was Rev. Mr. Damon, who obtained the reputation of an earnest
friend of the seamen, and was generally called "Father Damon," in
consequence of his paternal care and his kindness towards all who came
within his influence. He established a Seamen's Home in connection with
the church, and it has been of great use in keeping the sailors away
from the evil influences that are found in most ocean ports.
[Illustration: NATIVE SCHOOL-HOUSE IN HONOLULU.]
"Go where you will on these islands," said the Doctor, "you will find
churches everywhere, and not far from each church there is a native
school-house where the children are taught to read and write. On Sunday
the churches are filled with worshippers, and there is no more devout
people anywhere than on these islands. There are now more churches than
are needed by the population, for the reason, not that there is any
decline in religious zeal, but because of the decrease in the number of
inhabitants. At the time of Captain Cook's discovery the islands were
estimated to have a population of not far from two hundred thousand.
Small-pox, measles, and other diseases have made terrible havoc, and at
present the native population is little if any above fifty thousand. It
has been declining with more or less rapidity ever since the beginning
of the century, and the last census showed a considerable falling off
since the one that preceded it.
[Illustration: THE COURT-HOUSE IN HONOLULU.]
"Not only are the islanders diminishing in numbers," he continued, "but
the people of to-day are said to be smaller in stature than those of a
century ago. The missionaries and other old residents say that when they
first came here they used to meet great numbers of natives of high
stature and majestic figures, belonging generally to the old families of
chiefs and nobles. Occasionally at this time you may see them, but not
often."
[Illustration: NATIVE GENTLEMAN OF HONOLULU.]
"I suppose the chiefs and nobles were of a different race," Frank
remarked, "otherwise they would all be of the same general height."
"That was formerly supposed to be the case," was the reply, "and even
now the theory is sustained by many people. But I believe the general
opinion is that all were of the same race, and the superior development
of the chiefs and nobles was due to their easier life and better food,
which could hardly fail to have an effect through many generations."
One of the youths asked if the people received the missionaries kindly,
and showed a desire to be instructed and civilized.
"In a general way they did," was the reply, "though that was by no means
always the case. Some of the chiefs looked suspiciously upon the coming
of the strangers, fearing, and not without reason, that their power
would be diminished as their subjects became enlightened. The King was
favorable to the work of the missionaries, and consequently the
hostility of the chiefs could not be exercised with severity. Before the
advent of the missionaries the Hawaiians had no written language. The
missionaries reduced the language to writing, prepared school-books, a
dictionary, a hymn-book, and a translation of a part of the Scriptures,
all in the native tongue, and they trained the native teachers who were
needed for the management of the schools then and afterwards
established.
"In this way the missionaries gave the Hawaiian people the benefits of
civilization, and year by year saw the old superstitions and customs
disappearing. Some of them still remain, but not many; just as in New
England you may to this day find people who believe in witchcraft, and
all over the United States persons who have implicit faith in
supernatural things. The Hawaiians are by no means perfect in their
morals and beliefs, and you can find iniquity in Honolulu, just as you
may find it in Boston or Philadelphia. Murder and theft were very common
a hundred years ago; now the former crime is quite as rare as in the
United States, and as for the latter, it is even more so. Nearly all the
stealing in the islands is done by Chinese or other foreigners, and not
by the natives."
Our friends passed near the court-house, which bore a marked resemblance
to an American town-hall in a prosperous town, and stood at the edge of
a well-kept garden. The Doctor remarked that court-houses and jails were
some of the adjuncts of all civilized lands, and therefore they were
needed in Hawaii as well as elsewhere. "But I am told," he continued,
"that the majority of the inmates of the jail at Honolulu are of other
races than the Hawaiian, and that Americans and English form a good
proportion."
[Illustration: HAWAIIAN POI DEALER.]
A little way beyond the court-house our friends met a man carrying two
covered baskets slung at the ends of a short pole which rested on his
shoulder. Frank turned to the guide and asked what the man was carrying.
"He's a poi peddler," was the reply, "and I wonder you have not met one
before, as there are many of them. He peddles poi, and the people buy it
to eat."
He then explained that poi is the national dish of the islands, and is
made from the taro-root, which is the Sandwich Island form of the
potato. He pointed out a taro-garden, and said that there were many such
gardens in and around Honolulu, as the natives did not consider a home
complete without one.
The taro-root is baked in an underground oven, and then mashed very
fine, so that it would be like flour if the moisture were expelled.
After it has been thoroughly mashed it is mixed with water, and in this
condition is ready for eating. It has an agreeable taste when fresh, and
most foreigners like it upon the first trial. For native use it is
allowed to ferment; when fermented it suggests sour paste to the
uneducated palate, and is nauseating to the novice. Natives greatly
prefer it in this form, and a good many foreigners cultivate their taste
until they too would rather have their poi sour than fresh.
[Illustration]
Soon after the islands were settled by foreigners an ingenious Yankee
saw a chance for making money by importing machinery for making poi, in
place of the old form of hand-crushing. Now there are factories in
various parts of the island where poi is made in large quantities,
chiefly for the use of planters and other large consumers. It forms
quite an article of export to other islands where Polynesian labor is
employed, and especially to the guano islands, where nothing can be
cultivated. A former king of Hawaii established a poi factory at
Honolulu, and by so doing became very unpopular with his subjects, just
as has been the case with other kings who have introduced labor-saving
machinery into their dominions.
At dinner that evening Frank and Fred asked for poi and were promptly
supplied. It was explained to them that the native way of eating it was
to insert the forefinger in the dish, twirl it around until it was well
coated with the sticky substance, and then draw the finger through the
mouth. Both the youths concluded that they would allow the natives to
monopolize that form of eating, which was hardly to be reconciled with
civilized customs. They contented themselves with spoons, which answered
their purpose completely.
[Illustration: HAWAIIANS AT A FEAST.]
Poi, fish, and pork are the principal articles of food among the
Hawaiians; but at a feast several articles are added that do not come
into the daily bill of fare. The guide took Frank and Fred to a native
_luau_, or festival, and pointed out the following dishes: poi, fish and
pork, as already mentioned; baked ti-root, which bore a striking
resemblance to molasses-cake, of which New Englanders are fond, and the
resemblance included both appearance and taste; raw shrimps and limu,
which is a sea-moss smelling and tasting very disagreeably to the
novice; kuulaau, which is an agreeable compound of cocoanut and
taro-root; paalolo, a combination of cocoanut and sweet-potato, of a
sweetish taste; and two or three additional mixtures of the same sort.
Then there were cuttle-fish raw and cooked, roasted dog, and a small
quantity of pickled salmon, liberally dosed with red pepper. Fred
suggested that as the salmon was imported, and therefore expensive, the
red pepper was freely added in order that the article would be sparingly
eaten.
[Illustration: NATIVE HAY PEDDLER.]
The guide, who was a native, explained that the feast was for the
purpose of enabling the giver to build a new house, and each guest was
expected to pay fifty cents for his entertainment. He pointed out a
calabash bowl lying on the ground as the receptacle of the money, as it
was a matter of etiquette for the master not to receive the cash
directly from the hands of his guests. The affair had been arranged some
time beforehand, and the price of the feast was mentioned in the
invitation. Everybody was in new clothes, it being one of the Hawaiian
customs that every garment worn at a feast must be quite new, and a
native would rather be absent from the entertainment than violate this
point of etiquette. Five or six men who served as stewards were dressed
exactly alike, each of them wearing a green shirt and red trousers, made
for the occasion. In addition to this, they had green wreaths on their
heads, and most of the persons present had their heads decked with
flowers or leaves.
The diners sat on the ground, and as they took their places their
portions of roast pig, neatly wrapped in ti-leaves, were distributed to
them. They were expected to be satisfied with their allowance, and
etiquette forbade their asking for more of this article, though they
could help themselves freely to anything else. When the feast was over
each one carried away whatever of his roast pork was unconsumed. The
guide said it would be very impolite to leave any portion of it, and
even the bones were carried away. The feeding was not done in a hurry; a
native feast lasts for several hours, the guests pausing two or three
times to get up a fresh touch of appetite, and occasionally walking
about, singing, dancing, talking, or laughing, in order to increase the
capacity of their stomachs.
Our young friends tasted some of the dishes, and each dropped a
half-dollar in the calabash bowl that was designated as the receptacle
of the contributions of the guests. They carried away their portions of
roast pig, and gave the packages to some urchins whom they encountered a
short distance from the scene of the feast. The latter immediately sat
down to enjoy the toothsome delicacy, and no doubt imagined themselves
to be for the time the most favored beings in the land. Their appearance
indicated that roast pig did not often enter into their bill of fare,
and the rapidity with which they attacked the contents of the packages
showed that they had not dined.
Frank thought it must have been a great change for the people of the
islands when they abandoned their old custom of going without clothing
and adopted the dress of civilization. When it is remembered that a
hundred years ago the islanders were naked savages, the remark of the
youth is not to be wondered at. The missionaries say that in the early
days the attempts of the natives to adopt European dress were decidedly
ludicrous; they could not understand the necessity of three or more
garments, but thought a single one sufficient to begin with. A hat, a
shirt, and a pair of trousers were considered enough for three, and some
of them used to argue that these garments were altogether too numerous
for one individual, when there were so many others without anything.
[Illustration: DRESS OF HAWAIIAN WOMEN.]
Fred made a sketch of a group of women, and afterwards procured several
photographs showing how the feminine natives of the islands are
ordinarily clad. On the back of the sketch he wrote as follows:
"The dress of the women can hardly be called picturesque, but after
being seen a few times its oddity is not as apparent as at first. Most
of the women go bareheaded, or with wreaths of leaves and flowers in
their hair. Their dress hangs from the shoulders without being gathered
in at the waist, and quite closely resembles the morning wrapper of
civilized lands, though it is not so ornamental. Black, dark, and pink
are the usual colors of the dress, but on festive occasions something
gayer can be frequently seen. You would be surprised to see the grace
and dignity with which the older women carry themselves, and I think
much of it is due to the loosely flowing dress."
The climate is so mild that heavy clothing is not needed. The heat is of
course greater in the lowlands than among the mountains, whose highest
peaks are covered with snow for a considerable part of the year.
Honolulu is said to be the hottest place in the kingdom, and thin
clothing, but not the thinnest, is worn there the entire year. White is
worn a great deal, but it is so easily soiled that a good many prefer to
wear garments of blue serge, or blue or gray flannel. Flannel is
desirable for the winter months, but the islands are so near the equator
that the difference between winter and summer is not very great.
In December and January the temperature sometimes falls to 62°
Fahrenheit in the early morning, but by noon, or 2 P.M., it generally
reaches 75° or 76°, and remains between that point and 70° until
midnight. In July the highest point reached is 86°, and on a few
occasions 87°. The extreme range of the thermometer is not more than 26°
or 28°, which makes it a very comfortable climate to live in. It is said
to be an excellent one for persons suffering from pulmonary complaints,
though it is somewhat debilitating for healthy men and women accustomed
to the rigorous climate of the northern States of America.
Residents of the islands say there are regions among the mountains where
the nights are invariably cool enough for a fire all the year round,
while the days are never hot. Even in Honolulu the air is not as sultry
as that of New York or Philadelphia in July and August, and the greatest
heat experienced is almost always tempered by a breeze. There is more
rain in winter than in summer, but there is no really dry season. It is
a circumstance that strikes the stranger curiously that there is much
more rain on the windward side of the islands than on the leeward;
sometimes the former will have a great deal of rain, while the latter
gets little or hardly any. The trade-wind controls the rainfall, and by
ascertaining where it strikes a new-comer may have much or little rain
accordingly as he selects his place of residence.
[Illustration: ANCIENT IDOLS OF HAWAII.]
The guide told the youths that they could sit on the veranda of the
hotel at Honolulu and see the rain fall every day, but without getting a
drop within the limits of the city. "You may be here all day in the
sunshine," said he; "but if you are going to the windward side of the
island you must take your rubber overcoats. The showers that you see
from the hotels are from the clouds that have been blown over the
mountains, and as soon as you cross the range you will be in the midst
of them."
Doctor Bronson said that the decrease in the population of the islands
had been, by some people, attributed to the adoption of clothing by the
natives. "It is argued," said he, "that the people are very careless,
and have not learned the sanitary laws which govern the use of clothing.
A native thinks nothing of lying down with his wet clothes upon him when
he has been soaked by a rain or dipped in the surf; it is hard to make
him understand that such a practice is dangerous, and many of the
inhabitants have died of the severe colds contracted in this way."
[Illustration: GRASS HOUSE, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS.]
In the outskirts of the city our friends came to a house which the guide
said was a good specimen of the native dwelling, and they obtained
permission to enter and examine it. It had a door, but no windows; was a
single story in height, and its sides were made of upright sticks
interwoven with palm-leaves, while the roof was thatched with grass. The
floor was of solid earth covered with mats, and at one end there was a
sort of platform raised a foot higher than the rest. This platform was
the sleeping-place of the inmates, and was elevated in order to insure
its freedom from dampness in case of a heavy rain. In front of the house
was a bench, where one might sit in the shade during the afternoon, and
where no doubt the owner idled away a considerable part of his time. The
islanders are not fond of hard work, and in fact they have no occasion
to labor as industriously as do the inhabitants of more rigorous
regions.
[Illustration: GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS, HONOLULU.]
Around Honolulu the expense of living is greater than it is away from
the port, owing to the increased price of the products of the fields. In
the country it may be said that a man who works two days in the week can
support his family comfortably, especially if he is near the sea-coast,
whence he can obtain a supply of fish at any time he chooses to go for
them. Fishing, taro-planting, and making poi are his chief occupations,
and to these he generally adds mat-weaving, which is neither difficult
nor laborious. His wants are few and easily supplied, and it is no
wonder that the islander displays an unwillingness to wear himself out
in constant toil. The conditions of life do not require him to do so,
and he lacks the ambition to accumulate a fortune solely for the sake of
accumulating it.
[Illustration: HAWAIIAN DANCING-GIRLS.]
After dinner the guide proposed that the strangers should witness a
_hula-hula_, or native dance. It was quite unlike the dancing of
European countries, consisting principally of more or less active
movements of the limbs while the body of the dancer swayed from side to
side. The dancers were girls dressed in short frocks like those worn by
American school-girls; they had wreaths in their hair and around their
ankles, and their dresses were loosely gathered in at the waist, where
they were held by cords. The music was supplied by two men who struck
their hands upon large calabashes and sang or chanted a low monotonous
air. A very little of the dance satisfied the curiosity of the visitors,
and they returned to the hotel at an early hour.
The Hawaiians have another dance, which can be seen at their festivals;
it is performed by men and women, usually elderly people, and is
accompanied by singing, in which all may join. Then there are dances
for the younger people, but they are not generally practised, owing to
the opposition of the missionaries, and possibly to the unwillingness of
the people to indulge in active exercise unless they are paid for it.
All the dances have descended from the days before the advent of the
foreigners, and therefore have an interest for any one who desires to
learn whatever he can about the history of the islanders.
[Illustration]