Blocking is method used to shape a garment for a “professional look”.
Steps to follow:
1—Conceal all ends: run ends through several stitches on wrong side. If
yarn is heavy or bulky, split strand and run ends through several
stitches.
2—Determine whether garment is to be washed. If so, wash each section
separately by hand or machine wash garment according to specific
instructions on yarn label or commercial laundering product. Most
garments stretch larger when wet. Care, therefore, should be taken in
handling wet sections. Squeeze gently in the washing, DO NOT TWIST or
WRING. Rinse thoroughly. Place in turkish towel and squeeze out excess
moisture. Place on turkish towel to dry. If sections of garment appear
to be too big, adjust sections to measure by pushing sections into
slight puckers. Puckers will disappear when sections dry.
3—Always use the stitch gauge given as a guide for blocking.
Instructions are written for the average in any size, see page 14 for
our sizes. Any slight adjustment for individual size should be made in
the blocking.
4—After measurements have been determined, place the sections
individually and wrong side up on a well padded surface or table. It is
sometimes helpful to draw outline on brown paper or heavy tissue paper.
With rust proof pins, pin each section to measurement spacing pins about
½ inch apart.
5—Place a wet pressing cloth over a section. Using a rotary motion, hold
iron as close as possible to section allowing steam to penetrate, but DO
NOT at any time let iron rest on garment. Leave sections on pressing
table until thoroughly dry.... Do not hurry this process.
6—Always bear in mind that cables and rib patterns have a tendency to
pull in or shrink back. Each section should be blocked about 2 inches
more than desired measure, but should NEVER be pressed flat. Also some
patterns are especially designed for a textured effect. They too should
NEVER be pressed flat. Never press ribbing of cuffs, waistband or
neckline.
[Illustration: {unlabelled}]
7—After all sections have been blocked garment is now ready for
finishing. Seams may be woven (see illustrations for weaving lengthwise
and crosswise seams) or back stitched (see illustration page 31), or by
sewing machine. To weave lengthwise seam: thread tapestry needle with a
single strand of matching yarn. Hold lengthwise edges together, right
sides up. Insert needle in center of st on right side, pass under two
rows and pull yarn through to right side. Insert needle in corresponding
row of left side, draw yarn through in same way. Work from side to side
in this manner taking care to keep seam elastic, matching rows,
patterns, stripes, etc. To weave a crosswise seam: hold crosswise edges
together. Starting at right edge, insert needle under two loops of
stitch on top section, insert needle down through center of next stitch
and up through center of next stitch on lower section. Continue in same
manner working alternately into top section and then into lower section
until seam is completed taking care to keep seam elastic and matching
patterns, etc.
b—Back stitching: place right sides of sections to be seamed together.
Pin, keeping edges even and matching rows or patterns. With tapestry
needle and matching yarn back stitch close to edge taking care not to
draw stitches too tight and keeping seam elastic.
[Illustration: {unlabelled}]
c—Sewing machine: loosen tension on machine as you would for jersey or
any stretchy fabric. Place right sides together and pin. Baste seam
being careful not to draw stitches too tight. Remove pins. With matching
thread machine stitch seam. If yarn is bulky or fuzzy sew over tissue
paper. Remove paper when finished.
8—After garment is all assembled, carefully steam seams flat and even.