COPPICE.

Besides reproducing a wood crop from the seed of mother trees or by

planting, there is another reproduction possible by sprouts from the

stump. This, to be sure, can be done only with broad-leaved species,

since conifers, with but few exceptions, do not sprout from the stump.

When a wood lot is cut over and over again, the reproduction taking

place by such sprouts we call coppice.

Most wooded areas in the Eastern States have been so cut that

reproduction from seed could not take place, and hence we have large

areas of coppice, with very few seedling trees interspersed. As we

have seen in the chapter on "How trees grow," the sprouts do not

develop into as good trees as the seedlings. They grow faster, to be

sure, in the beginning, but do not grow as tall and are apt to be

shorter lived.

For the production of firewood, fence, and post material, coppice

management may suffice, but not for dimension timber. And even to keep

the coppice in good reproductive condition, care should be taken to

secure a certain proportion of seedling trees, since the old stumps,

after repeated cutting, tail to sprout and die out.

Soil and climate influence the success of the coppice; shallow

soils produce weaker but more numerous sprouts and are more readily

deteriorated by the repeated laying bare of the soil; a mild climate is

most favorable to a continuance of the reproductive power of the stump.

Some species sprout more readily than others; hence the composition

of the crop will change, unless attention is paid to it. In the

coppice, as in any other management of a natural wood crop, a desirable

composition must first be secured, which is done by timely improvement

cuttings, as described in a previous section.

The best trees for coppice in the northeastern States are the chestnut,

various oaks, hickory, ash, elm, maples, basswood, and black locust,

which are all good sprouters.

When cutting is done for reproduction, the time and manner are the main

care. The best results are probably obtained, both financially and with

regard to satisfactory reproduction, when the coppice is cut between

the twentieth and thirtieth years. All cutting must be done in early

spring or in winter, avoiding, however, days of severe frost, which is

apt to sever the bark from the trunk and to kill the cambium. Cutting

in summer kills the stump, as a rule. The cut should be made slanting

downward, and as smooth as possible, to prevent collection of moisture

on the stump and the resulting decay, and as close as possible to

the ground, where the stump is less exposed to injuries, and the new

sprouts, starting close to the ground, may strike independent roots.

Fail places or gaps should be filled by planting. This can be readily

done by bending to the ground some of the neighboring sprouts, when 2

to 3 years old, notching, fastening them down with a wooden hook or a

stone, and covering them with soil a short distance (4 to 6 inches)

from the end. The sprout will then strike root, and after a year or so

may be severed from the mother stock by a sharp cut (fig. 15).

For the recuperation of the crop, it is desirable to maintain a supply

of seedling trees, which may be secured either by the natural seeding

of a few mother trees of the old crop which are left, or by planting.

This kind of management, coppice with seedling or standard trees

intermixed, if the latter are left regularly and well distributed over

the wood lot, leads to a management called "standard coppice." In this

it is attempted to avoid the drawbacks of the coppice, viz, failure to

produce dimension material and running out of the stocks. The former

object is, however, only partially accomplished, as the trees grown

without sufficient side shading are apt to produce branchy boles and

hence knotty timber, besides injuring the coppice by their shade.

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