The Diplomat and the Salmon--The Struggle for Existence--Salmon and
Steel-head Liable to be Confused--Sport in Tidal Waters--The
Campbell River--The Pioneers--A River of Fifty-Pounders--Smaller
Salmon on the Fly--Method of Fishing--Tackle--Typical Good
Bags--The Steel-head--Cost of Fishing--Dangers of Over-Fishing for
Canneries--A Good Trolling Time.
Though much more might be written about the canning industry and the
migration of the salmon, it is not material to the purpose of this book,
and has only been touched on to show how it bears on the question of
salmon fishing by rod and line; for it is often stated that the salmon
does not take the fly in British Columbia, as if it were a personal
matter and some perverse characteristic of the fish. There is another
story very popular in the west, relating what happened at the time when
the great fur companies held the country and were disputing and even
fighting for its possession. The Imperial Government sent out some
illustrious diplomat to report on the situation, and he described the
country as of no value and so hopeless that "even the salmon would not
take the fly." It is a tradition in British Columbia that on this ground
the now flourishing States of Idaho, Montana, Washington, and Oregon
were handed over to the Americans. The description given of the
conditions under which the salmon migrate is intended to show reasons
why the fish are unable to oblige the angler in this matter of taking
the fly. These conditions are obvious. The desperate struggle for
existence in an immense shoal of fish pressing upwards against the
tremendous current of a river abounding in strong rapids and whirlpools;
the length of the journey, several hundred miles in extent; the absence
of any chance of resting owing to the pressure of the multitudes behind;
and, finally, the state of exhaustion brought on by all these forces
combined--these things must, and indeed do, reduce the fish to such a
condition that its final energies are devoted to and exhausted by the
propagation of its species. Even if enough vitality were left to make it
take a bait, no sport would be obtained by the angler, and his sorry
capture would be generally unfit for food.
I have once or twice experimented by foul-hooking salmon in the tail in
the Nicola River, but after one feeble rush the fish was easily hauled
ashore even by light trout tackle, and returned to the water as
entirely useless to anyone except an Indian.
There is only one final conclusion to be drawn, that in the upper waters
of the rivers and the inland lakes the salmon do not take the fly or any
other bait, nor is there any case in which it has been even alleged that
a salmon has ever been caught on the fly. Occasionally large silvery
fish have been caught on spoon and minnow, but, in the absence of proof
to the contrary, it is most probable that these fish are either large
silver trout, rainbow, or steel-heads. Absolute proof of the capture of
a salmon is still wanting, though it is quite possible that such a thing
has occasionally taken place.
The question of salmon taking the fly in the tidal waters is another
matter, for there is not the least doubt that all the five different
species have been taken in this manner; though possibly not so often as
is stated, because the steel-head is a source of error, from its
resemblance to the salmon. A fish of 15lb. is taken on the fly and the
capture of a salmon is announced, on the strength of its weight and
size; whereas, on inquiry, it is found that the fisherman is certain
that it was a salmon, but can produce no evidence to prove that it was
not a steel-head. It is not everyone who can tell the difference
between a salmon and a steel-head on its mere appearance without
counting the rays on the anal fin or tail, and until this simple proof
is put to the test there will always be a doubt as to the frequency with
which the salmon is taken on the fly.
The size of the anal fin is so obvious a distinction of the Pacific
salmon that I have often observed it in numbers of small fry caught for
bait; the fin in a small fish two or three inches long resembles the
wavy fan-like fins seen in the Japanese gold fish, and distinguishes it
at a glance from the corresponding short fin of the young rainbow. A
curious error of this kind occurs in Mr. Rudyard Kipling's well-known
book, "From Sea to Sea," where he describes most enthusiastically a
day's salmon fishing in California on the Sacramento, and his capture of
numerous salmon on the fly. There is no doubt that his fish were
steel-heads.
There is enough evidence from various sources to show that the salmon
take the fly in tidal waters, but it cannot be said that there is much
to show that they do so very freely, especially in the case of the large
quinnat salmon. But, on the other hand, the spoon bait is taken most
greedily by all the different species. It may be that the fly has not
been tried as much as it might have been, owing to the success of the
spoon. The result is that at present trolling in these waters with this
bait is the chief means employed, and has afforded sport unrivalled of
its kind by any other part of the world.
Very fair sport can be got in the Narrows near Vancouver or in the sea
off Esquimalt or Oak Bay near Victoria. But the place which has of late
years been distinguished by the most extraordinary salmon fishing ever
heard of is the mouth of the Campbell River on the east coast of
Vancouver Island. In the places first named, as also at the mouths of
several well-known rivers, salmon and steel-heads may be caught by
trolling and spinning, and occasionally with the fly. Thus seven or
eight fish are no unusual bag in the waters near Victoria, but they are
not usually of any very great size. The mouth of Campbell River appears
to be the only place yet known where the big salmon can be caught in any
large number, though it is quite possible that other places exist.
This river has long been a fishing ground for the Indians, who trolled
for the fish with a strong hand-line and spoon. The pioneers of this
fishing among white men were Mr. G.P. FitzGerald and Sir Richard
Musgrave, who made an expedition to these waters in the early nineties
and camped at the mouth of Campbell River, also trying Salmon River and
other places along the coast. They met with great success in the tidal
waters off Campbell River, but practically drew a blank wherever else
they tried. It was on this occasion that Sir R. Musgrave landed a 70lb.
salmon, which holds the record in these waters. Since then an increasing
number of fishermen have visited Campbell River, until of late years
there have always been a few rods on the ground; and a small hotel has
been put up. There is, however, not much fear of over-fishing, though
the time is past when a fisherman could have the whole of the water to
himself.
There are sinister rumours of a cannery and fish traps to be established
in the near future, and should these things come to pass then the
fishing which has been enjoyed will become a mere memory and perhaps
these pages its only record.
Mr. FitzGerald always enjoyed his best sport under the guidance of an
Indian and by employing the Indians' spoon, which is a plain silver
spoon with a loose hook. The main aim was always the large 50lb. fish,
smaller fish of 25lb. or so being regarded as a nuisance, and if
possible shaken off the hook. The biggest catch was eight fish six of
which were about 50lb. apiece; anyone familiar with salmon fishing will
know that this is no small feat after allowing for fish hooked and lost,
while it must be remembered that a fish of 50lb. may take over an hour
to land. Sir Richard Musgrave's large fish of 70lb. took an hour and a
half to land; it was a magnificent fish, the record salmon of the rod
and line. A cast of it was shown at Farlow's, in the Strand, and also at
Rowland Ward's, in Piccadilly, during the spring of 1897. The spoon
fishing of the Namsen and other Norwegian rivers fades into
insignificance beside such sport; two or more fish of over 50lb. were
the average catch, besides more that were hooked and lost, while the
numerous smaller fish were not considered worthy of notice.
Mr. A. Duncan reports excellent success with the prawn, which he was the
first to use, and it may be that with this deadly bait even larger fish
might be obtained. He also reports that with a silver-bodied fly in the
evening, but at no other time, he caught large numbers of salmon about
7lb. in weight, and could have filled a boat with them. He gives no
absolute proof as to whether these fish were salmon or steel-heads, but
it is his opinion that they were salmon.
The fishing is done by crossing and re-crossing the small bay into which
Campbell River flows, trolling from a canoe or small boat, the breadth
of the water being about half a mile; the method is exactly like
trolling in a Norwegian fiord just off the mouth of a river. It is a
curious fact that no sport can be obtained in the river itself, which
fully supports the contention put forth above that the Pacific coast
salmon ceases to take as soon as it begins to run, the taking fish being
those which are hanging about the mouth of the river preparatory to
running up. There seems to be no instance of the very large fish taking
the fly.
There is no need to say much as to tackle, except that it should be
strong and that there should be plenty of line. The native spoon can be
obtained on the spot. Some fishermen prefer a large rod as better able
to hold off a fish which runs under the boat; I should personally prefer
a short, stiff, steel-centred rod such as Hardy's 12ft. Murdoch--a type
of rod preferred by the Americans for yellow tail and tuna fishing. This
kind of rod is much handier in a boat, and almost unbreakable.
The following is a list showing some of the bags at Campbell River.
Mr. A. Duncan in 1904. Tyee salmon, eighteen; weight, 810lb. Average,
45lb. Cohoes and tyee under 30lb., thirty-two. Total, fifty fish in
eighteen days. Best day August 9th, 1904: Seven salmon, 56lb., 53lb.,
52lb., 16lb., 12lb., 7-1/2lb., and 4lb. The eight heaviest fish:
50-3/4lb., 56lb., 53lb., 52lb., 52lb., 50lb., 48-1/2lb., and 48lb.
Mr. Duncan says:
Fish under 30lb. are counted as grilse. The cohoe salmon will take
a fly; white with silver tinsel, I found best. They take in the sea
at sunrise and sunset when they are jumping--in fact, more could be
got in this way while they are actually jumping than by trolling,
only they must be jumping and also fairly plentiful. I have got an
odd one casting, but nearly all by trailing the fly. They give
splendid sport on a light trout rod. The largest I got last year
(1903) was 12lb. But they were not "running" this year, and I only
got two of 7lb. each on the fly. Salmon are caught in Cowichan Lake
(after ascending 30 miles of river); frequently I got one myself
and saw others caught, though they are black and ugly. But I am
told on absolutely reliable authority that great sport is had with
tyee salmon (from 30lb. downwards) on the fly in the Cowichan River
in the spring, and then only when the water is discoloured. They
only take the fly sunk, and generally a leaded one is used.
It is noteworthy that this peculiarity of only taking the fly when
jumping is also common to the trout in the Shuswap and other large lakes
in the interior. Also their favourable time is at sunrise and sunset. It
might also be noted that Mr. Duncan makes no mention of the steel-head
or sea-trout. This fish runs in the Cowichan River and Lake in the
spring. The test of the number of rays in the anal fin and tail should
be applied to all these fish.
The sockeye does not appear to frequent Campbell River. The tyee and
cohoe frequent the coastal waters of British Columbia. But the feeding
ground of the sockeyes is some unknown part of the Pacific Ocean from
which they migrate and enter the waters between the mainland of British
Columbia and Vancouver Island in great shoals, through the Straits of
San Juan. Even then their stomachs are empty and contracted, showing
that they have already travelled some distance. Mr. Babcock, the
Fisheries Commissioner of British Columbia, states in his report for
1903: "The first fish are reported from Otter Point. From Sherringham
Point east their movement is clearly defined as they pass close in
shore. They come in rapidly with the flood tides, at times close to the
surface and breakwater; frequently during the last weeks of July and the
first two weeks in August, in years of large runs, they show themselves
plainly, a racing, leaping, bluish silver mass in the clear and rapid
moving waters." Then they appear to strike the discoloured water of the
Fraser, and follow it to the mouth of the river. In 1903, 2,948,333
sockeyes were delivered to the canners during the last two weeks of July
and the month of August.
The steel-head trout (_Salmo gairdneri_) is the anadromous form of the
rainbow, bearing the same relation to it as our sea-trout does to the
brown trout. It more closely resembles in form, colour of flesh, and
habit the Atlantic salmon than any other form found on the Pacific
coast. It spawns in fresh waters, and survives after spawning and
returns to the sea. It feeds in fresh and salt water. How far it
penetrates into the interior and up the Fraser is a matter of doubt. My
own opinion is that it only goes as far as Hope, being unable to face
the strong water in the Fraser Canyon, owing probably to the fact that
it is not equipped with the powerful anal fin and tail of the Pacific
salmon. It enters all waters near the coast, and is caught on the rod in
the Stave and Pitt Rivers. I have never heard of one being caught on the
Thompson. Trout fishermen in the coast rivers catch them with both fly
and minnow.
The following details of catches are quoted from an article which
appeared in _The Field_ in December, 1905, from the pen of Mr. L.
Layard. In 1904 twenty-four tyee weighing 1,004lb., average 41-1/2lb.;
forty-three cohoes weighing 297lb., average 7-1/2lb. Best fish 49lb.,
49lb., 50lb., 51lb., 53lb., 53lb., 55lb., and 56lb. He also states that
he saw two fish of 60lb., landed. In 1905, for July and August, fishing
for thirty-eight days: six hundred and eighty-eight salmon weighing
5,254lb. Best fish, 50lb. Best catches, thirty-six fish (275lb.) in five
hours, forty-four fish (330lb.) in six hours.
A Mr. J. Pidcock, fishing for his cannery from 3 a.m. to 9 p.m., in a
dug-out, using two hand lines, caught 706 salmon. Mr. Layard speaks very
well of the new hotel, and of a Mr. J. Thompson as boatman. He quotes
the hotel charges as L2 a week and 2s. a day for a fine sea boat, and
12s. a day as wages for a boatman.
He gives some interesting particulars of Campbell River itself, to which
a trail is to be cut from the hotel. There seems to be good rainbow
trout fishing for two miles in the river. The salmon are stopped by a
waterfall, where there is a large pool 30 feet deep, in which tyee
salmon, with humpback, cohoes, and trout, could be clearly seen. Mr.
Layard could not induce them to touch anything from the bank, but a tyee
of 18lb. was hooked on a spoon and lost two days afterwards by another
man from a canoe. The Indians stated that such a thing as hooking a
salmon in the river had never been heard of in their traditions. No
mention is made of the steel-head, and there is no proof given that the
above was not one of these fish. Mr. Layard was not equipped for
fly-fishing, but believes that the cohoes would have taken the fly.
An examination of these catches shows beyond dispute that there has
never been such salmon fishing as this in any other waters, and
fortunate indeed were those who first enjoyed it. Even yet the sport is
there, as Mr. Layard shows, and perhaps may still go on for many years
yet. In spite of adverse prophecies, possibly the cannery and fish traps
may never be built, for the quinnat is mostly useful to the angler.
Unfortunately nothing can be done to save this splendid piece of fishing
unless all the land and foreshore rights were bought up by some
philanthropist in the interests of sport, which is hardly within the
bounds of possibility; whereas if an offer for these rights is made to
the Government, for the purposes of fish-trap and cannery, a refusal is
impossible. Let us hope and even pray that no cannery is ever built, and
even if it is that it may soon be abandoned, for though I am myself a
fly-fisherman and think that trolling is only a poor imitation of the
real thing, yet in this place the great size and number of the fish make
up for other deficiencies, fulfilling the desires of the most ardent
salmon fisherman, and surely satisfying his wildest dreams.
The fishing at Campbell River can be enjoyed from June to September,
and steamers call there about twice a month on their way from Victoria
to the north; formerly it was necessary to take a tent and provisions
and camp out, but now accommodation can be got at the hotel. July and
August are the best months.
The best rod for Campbell River, as I have said, would be an 11ft. or
12ft. rod of the pattern of Hardy's Murdoch, a steel-centred split cane;
the reel should carry at least 80yds. of line and 100yds. of strong
backing; it would be well to carry a spare line. Traces and casts should
be taken, but spoons could be got better on the spot or in Victoria.
Tackle for fly-fishing might well be taken also.
The Americans use at Catalina for tuna fishing a line called cuttyhunk
line; it is very thin, light, and of tremendous strength. It is called
"twenty-four strand" line; the strongest man could not break it with his
hands, and yet it is not as thick as a salmon casting line. It makes
splendid backing for a casting line, and as a trolling line it is
absolutely unequalled. The size which will make good backing for a trout
line is nine strand, and is very hard to break with the hands.
Twenty-four strand is unbreakable; it only succumbs to the mighty tuna
when the whole line is run out. Another advantage is that it is
absurdly cheap, a 1,000 yard tuna line only costing L1. Three or four
hundred yards would go on an ordinary salmon reel and would form a
splendid trolling line. If I remember rightly, they use twelve strand
line for yellow tail fishing at Catalina, and consider it quite strong
enough. The yellow tail is a mackerel running from 25lb. to 60lb., and
is believed to be stronger and fiercer for its size than the tuna. The
cuttyhunk line is, however, absolutely useless for anything except
trolling; it is far too light for casting a fly or even for throwing a
minnow or any other kind of bait. It must also be well waxed with a
piece of ordinary yellow beeswax to prevent it rotting, because it has
no kind of dressing or protection from the effects of water. It would
need waxing at least twice a week. I have never seen this line except in
California, though it can probably be obtained anywhere in the United
States. In my opinion it is far superior in strength to any of our
English lines for trolling, while the price of a sufficient length for
ordinary purposes would be about half a crown.
It is more than probable that other rivers will become known before long
where the fishing may rival that of Campbell River. The sea coast of
British Columbia stretches far to the north, and most of it is
absolutely unknown to the fisherman, while even further north still
there are canneries on the coast of Alaska. I have seen salmon in Dawson
City which looked quite fresh run and had been netted in the Yukon; also
grayling which had been caught on the fly in the Klondike River. If ever
the present known rivers of British Columbia are fished out, there is
surely an inexhaustible supply further north. There can be no question
but that the Grand Trunk Pacific will in a few years open up a new
country of lakes and rivers, in which the sport should be at least as
good as those already known.
The fishing at Campbell River is apparently not confined to the mouth of
the river--at least in good seasons--as Mr. Layard speaks of fishing up
and down both sides of the strait from Seymour Narrows to Cape Mudge
lighthouse, a distance of 12 miles. A grant from the Government has been
made for a pier to be built at Campbell River, enabling all steamers to
call there, which will render it more easy of access.