FIRST SIGNS OF PROHIBITION

We had met Prohibition first at Honolulu, not a few of the passengers

receiving the shock of their lives on learning at the hotel that only

"soft drinks" were permitted. Our second reminder of the new regime came

as we entered American waters off the Golden Gate and the ship's bar was

formally closed. And then, in San Francisco, we found "dry" land indeed.

In this connection let me say that in the hotel I made acquaintance

with an official of great power who was new to me: the buttoned boy

who rejoices in the proud title of Bell Captain. He gave me a private

insight into his precocity (but that is not the word, for all boys in

America are men too), and into his influence, by offering to supply me

with forbidden fruit, in the shape of whisky, at the modest figure

of $25 a bottle. He did not, however, say dollars: like most of his

compatriots (and it is a favourite word with them) he said something

between "dollars" and "dallars."

I had, a few days later, in Chicago, a similarly friendly offer from a

policeman of whom I had inquired the way. Recognizing an English accent,

he had instantly divined what my dearest wish must be. I then asked him

how prohibition was affecting the people on his beat. He said that a few

drunkards were less comfortable and a few wives more serene; but for the

most part he had seen no increase of happiness, and the extra money

that it provided was spent either on the movies, dress, or "other

foolishness." I did not allow him to refresh me. After a course of

American "tough" fiction, of which "Susan Lenox" remains most luridly in

the memory, I had a terror of all professional upholders of the law.

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