OLD SIENA--AND NEW FRIENDS
When Irma looked out of her window before breakfast her first morning at
Siena, she was surprised to see before her not a town street, but what
seemed a section of farming country, with vegetable gardens and
occasional small cottages. She saw men and women at work in the fields,
and she wondered whether she were awake or asleep. For her impression of
Siena, as they had driven through the streets the night before, was of a
closely built town. When she had dressed, she hastened from her room to
see what impression she would get from a front window.
It seemed to be a morning of surprises, for as she passed a
sitting-room at the head of the stairs, she heard Marion laughing, yes,
actually laughing, and other voices were mingled with his in
conversation and laughter, too.
So surprised was Irma that she paused, with her hand on the banister,
and a moment later Marion stood beside her.
"Come in, there is some one here you ought to meet," he said, and almost
before she realized it he had led her into the room. The faces of the
two girls who stood near the window were certainly not exactly the faces
of strangers, and yet she could not tell where she had previously seen
them.
"Miss Grimston, Miss Sanford, this is Irma Derrington."
At these words of Marion's she realized who the strangers were, the two
girls she had seen at the Naples Aquarium.
"Don't I come in for an introduction, too?" said a boy's voice, almost
before Irma had a chance to say a word to the two girls, and at the same
moment a tall, blue-eyed boy came forward with a smile. "I am Richard
Sanford," he said pleasantly.
"Come, children, come to breakfast," cried Uncle Jim, now appearing at
the door; "your aunt will have her coffee upstairs."
Then he started back. "Excuse me," he said, "I did not realize that
Siena was so full of young Americans," and then Marion repeated the
introductions.
In the breakfast room a table was found where all the young people could
sit together, under the vigilant eye of Uncle Jim, "a chaperon _pro
tem_," as he called himself, whose chief duty it was to see that they
did not let their conversation interfere with their appetites. Before
the meal ended he had made them admit that he had done his duty.
"We have seen all the most important things in Siena," Katie Grimston
explained, "but we had arranged to be here a week, and that gives us two
days more. Mrs. Sanford happens to be rather tired to-day, and while she
is resting we can go about with you if you'd like to have us."
"Indeed we should," responded Uncle Jim, "for if you have been over the
ground, you can probably save us many steps."
"Of course we won't promise to go everywhere, but we can save you time
at first."
A little later Irma was at the door, ready to start. The street in front
of the house looked like the street of some pleasant New England suburb.
The houses seemed comparatively modern. But not so very far away she
caught glimpses of roofs crowded together, and of the tower of a large
church.
Marion and Katie and Uncle Jim had gone off a little ahead of the
others, and Irma found herself with Richard Sanford and his sister.
"Let us take a short cut to the Duomo," said Richard. "We've always
driven, but it would really be more fun to walk."
The girls assented, and the three set off in good spirits. But Richard,
although he asked his way once or twice, did not pay close attention to
directions, and they quickly found themselves going down a steep, narrow
street that had no sidewalk, and was paved with large stones that made
walking difficult. The street was full of people, chiefly women and
little children, and some of the children gathered around the Americans
as they passed along.
"The only thing I know about the cathedral," protested Irma, when they
found themselves at the bottom of the long street, "is that it occupies
the highest land in Siena, which I am sure we shall never reach if we
keep going down hill."
"Patience, patience," cried Richard pleasantly. "I'll show you that I
am a regular Duke of York," and he stepped aside to talk with an
intelligent-looking woman in a doorway, who gesticulated while she
talked.
"Her gestures tell me more than her words," said Richard, "and all we
have to do, evidently, is to turn a corner or two and go up hill again."
"Oh, Richard, you are so heedless. You should have thought twice before
bringing us down here," cried his sister.
"But think what fun to go up those queer little stepping-stones," and
with a long stride Richard was soon so far ahead of them that again the
only sensible thing was to follow.
For a moment he was out of sight around a corner, and when they came
upon him, he was on the steps of a building that was at a considerably
lower level than the cathedral towering above. Then they followed him
within, and Ellen fortunately withheld her word of reproof, which might
otherwise have seemed an interruption to a service that was going on.
"A christening," she whispered to Irma; "this must be the baptistery."
"See, there are two of them. I believe they are twins." Both girls now
drew nearer to the font. There were several persons besides the priest,
and two of the women wore cloaks with bright linings, one blue, one
pink. The lady of the pink-lined cloak held in her arms a baby with a
cloak of the same color, and a baby in a blue cloak was held by the
wearer of the blue-lined cloak.
"I wish we could look at them," whispered Ellen, as the children and
their train turned away from the font. "I do so love to see twins," and
then, to the surprise of both girls, the baby in the blue cloak was
carried out of the baptistery, followed by her parents and grandparents,
without a farewell to the baby in the pink cloak; while the parents of
the other child sat down for a minute or two before taking him away.
"They are not twins. They are not even brother and sister," cried Ellen,
in a tone of great dejection.
"As if that made any difference!" exclaimed Richard, overhearing her.
"Oh, Ellen, you can be such a goose. But come, after you have admired
Donatello's stunning St. John, we must go outside and take a few more
steps up to the cathedral."
From the piazza the black and white striped marble, the gabled front
and its fine sculptures, reminded Irma of the Orvieto Duomo. But it had
not the rich color of the other. On each side of the door were columns
surmounted by a marble wolf.
"Oh, you must get used to _La Lupa_ in Siena. You know the story goes
that Siena was founded by Senus, son of Remus, hence the Sienese claim
the wolf as their especial emblem. You'll see it everywhere. Now follow
me and listen attentively, young ladies, and you'll find you can 'do'
this vast Duomo in the shortest time on record. No, no."
The last was said to a guide who was following them closely, a
half-grown boy, who was not easily shaken off.
"Richard really is a very good guide," whispered Ellen. "He knows so
many stories about everything, and when he doesn't remember he can make
up something just as interesting."
In consequence of this remark of Ellen's, Irma was not always sure how
much was truth and how much imagination, in the legends that Richard
rapidly told of saints and church dignitaries, painted on the walls, or
done in graffito in the marble pavement. But of one thing she was
certain, she had never seen a building so complete in its carvings,
whether of wood or marble, its paintings and gildings. She admired the
tall flagstaffs captured at Montaperti, though they seemed out of place
in a church. She stood long, studying the details of the exquisite
marble pulpit by Nicholas Pisano, when Richard exclaimed, "The most
beautiful pulpit in Europe. He worked on it for three years, and then
received for it--about thirty dollars."
"Is that the truth or a legend?" she asked, smiling.
"The real true truth," he answered. "I saw it in a book of accounts in
the Municipal building. They have a great many interesting manuscripts
there. The letters of Catherine of Siena, and many other autographs
would fetch their weight in gold in our country."
"An autograph wouldn't weigh very much," suggested Irma.
But Richard took no notice of the interruption.
"Well, I made a particular note about Nicholas Pisano. So I am sure I am
right. But come, if you wish to do the cathedral in the shortest known
time, we must go at once to the library."
"I am not in so tremendous a hurry."
"Ah, that's because you have no idea how much there is in Siena. See,
there's the librarian letting one group of victims go. We can easily
slip in."
The room they now entered, though small, was beautifully decorated.
Above the rich woodwork were ten frescoes on the walls, each a complete
scene from the life of some hero.
"He is Enio Sylvio Piccolomini," explained their self-appointed guide,
"who became Pope Pius II, and isn't that a funny scene where he is
trying to persuade the king of Scotland to harry the border so that
Henry VI of England may have so much to do at home that he won't
interfere with the affairs on the continent?"
"Oh, but the colors are so rich, and Enio Sylvio, if he looked like
that, must have been a very interesting person."
Richard laughed at Irma's seriousness.
"Pinturicchio knew how to please Pope Pius III, the nephew of Enio
Sylvio, who engaged him to paint these pictures. But still, on the
whole, I imagine that the Piccolomini were rather interesting. For
generations they held the chief offices in the church here in Siena, and
in the years they were fighting with the Tolmei, they kept things pretty
lively. But in Enio Sylvio's time the worst of the Civil Wars were over.
But now come," and Richard looked at his watch. "You can have only five
minutes for all these illuminated books."
"Oh, more than that," cried Ellen.
"No, my dear, that is enough for a general impression, which is all you
would retain if you were to spend an hour here."
The five minutes, however, lengthened into ten before Ellen and Irma
were ready to leave the fascinating folios in their leather bindings.
They were all books of devotion, some of them music books, with the
chants of the church, and all of them illustrated with tiny paintings
rich in color.
"It is all very well to hurry us," said Ellen, as they walked toward the
door of the Duomo, "but you spent a whole morning here, and this is my
first visit, as well as Miss Derrington's."
"You have a good enough general impression," replied Richard, with a
laugh; "and what more can any one expect, on a first visit?"
"Evidently," thought Irma, "Richard Sanford looks on sightseeing much as
Uncle Jim does."
A little later, at the great door, Irma and her friends almost ran into
Uncle Jim, behind whom walked Katie Grimston and Marion.
"Well, you must have taken the longest way round; where in the world
have you been, Katie?" asked Ellen.
"Oh, we came through the town, and there were so many nice little shops
there that I had to stop, as I always do," replied Katie, whose hands
were full of little bundles. "Besides, none of us were in a great hurry
for the cathedral. You know I have been all through it," and she glanced
coquettishly at Richard. "If you wish us to go on with you now, we can
as well as not," she added.
"You must suit yourself, but as Marion and his uncle have not been here,
I should think you'd like to give them the advantage of your superior
knowledge."
Then Uncle Jim spoke for himself. "I really think Marion and I ought to
take a turn around inside, if nothing more. But Miss Grimston----"
"Oh, of course I'd rather do what you do," said Katie, turning her back
to Richard, who thereupon went outside. Then after Irma had had a word
or two with Uncle Jim, she and Ellen found Richard near a carriage.
"It is too warm to walk, and I am going to take you down to the Campo.
It is the most interesting spot here in Siena and I wish to be the first
to show it to you."
"Oh, not more interesting than St. Catherine's house," said Ellen.
"More interesting to me, and I believe it will be to Miss Derrington,"
said Richard.
As they drove along, Irma realized that it was indeed strange that she
should be so contented in the company of Ellen and Richard, two persons
of whom she had not even heard until this very morning. As if he read
her thoughts, Richard said rather abruptly, "I suppose Marion hasn't had
a chance to tell you that he and I used to go to school together in New
York. That was years ago, when we were first out of the kindergarten.
Lately he has studied at home, and I've been off at boarding school, so
I have seen him only occasionally in my holidays. You must have seen
more of him, Ellen."
"Oh, no," responded his sister. "Until to-day, I had hardly even seen
him since he was a small boy. Of course I felt very sorry for him this
winter."
"Ah, here we are!" and Richard signalled the driver to pull up, as they
reached the end of a narrow street.
"Oh, it is picturesque!" cried Irma, looking at the square before her.
The great open space was hardly a square, but a piazza tending toward a
semicircle, and slightly lower than the street. On the side farthest
from them were several fine buildings, from one of which rose a high,
square tower, of which Irma remembered to have seen many pictures. Then
she recalled something she had just read. Surely Richard would know.
"Yes," responded Richard. "This is the very tower they are copying for
the Provincetown monument. What a genuine Yankee you are to remember.
There," continued Richard, "this is the famous Campo. It is in a hollow,
where the three hills of Siena meet. How I should like to have seen it
five or six hundred years ago, on one of those days when a fisticuff
game was going on, or one of the more exciting donkey races. Oh, it
makes our sports to-day seem tame, when we read what these old Sienese
used to do. You see," he continued, without waiting for the girls to ask
questions, "at one of these fisticuff fights one Sunday before Carnival,
the fighters on one side grew so excited when driven off the ground that
they fell upon their opponents with sticks and stones, and then with
lances and darts, and all of Siena crowded to the neighborhood. The
soldiers, the greatest men of the city, too, tried in vain to stop them,
and some of the soldiers were killed. Then people who lived in the very
palaces we're looking at threw stones out of their windows, but the mob
only threatened to set fire to the houses."
"Well, how did it end?" asked Ellen impatiently.
"Oh, the fight would probably have continued to this day, if some one,
after several soldiers had been killed, had not thought of getting the
Bishop of Siena, and all the Friars here to come down to the Campo, and
when they began to march in a solemn procession right through the thick
of the fight, carrying the cross and other religious emblems, of course
the fighting stopped. But naturally their games were not often as
exciting as this."
"What were the donkey races like?"
"Oh, quite different. The city was divided into _contrade_, or
districts, and on the days of the races each district appeared with its
captain and other officers, with its special banner, and a donkey
painted in its colors. The game was to get the donkeys to go twice
around the Campo. No one on the field was permitted to have a weapon of
any kind, not even a finger ring, but they could fight and push and do
all in their power to prevent any donkey's winning, except that of their
own district. After the donkey races died out they used to have buffalo
races; you know," in a tone of contempt, "the kind of buffaloes they
have in Italy, and later horse races, which they still have."
"Here on the Campo? How I should like to see them."
"Then you must come here the second of July or the middle of August. The
_Palio_ is the name given to the race, and as the city is still divided
into _contrade_, these horses are mounted by representatives of the
different ones. But I have a friend who came here one summer, and he
says that in spite of the crowds and the display of rich banners and
colors these races are now rather tame affairs."
"Nothing is what it used to be," said Ellen, half mockingly. "My
brother," she explained, turning to Irma, "is romantic, and always
longing for the past, in spite of which I don't believe he would have
cared to live in Italy in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries."
"Well, they did some things better than we can, the men of those days.
Just come for a moment to the Palazzo Municipio, and I'll show you some
pictures that will make you envy the Sienese."
As the girls followed he marched them rapidly from room to room,
decorated with enormous frescoes, in which were shown the victories of
the Sienese over their neighbors, especially over their chief rival,
Florence. From the great Council Hall they passed to the Hall of the
Nine, who at one time were supreme in the Government of Siena. After one
or two efforts Irma ceased trying to understand the allegorical figures
that had almost as large a place in the pictures as the historical. But
the color was so beautiful, and generally the paintings were so pleasing
that she restrained the laugh that was often on her lips, when something
appeared to her particularly absurd. But Richard, who had been here
before, had the meanings of the allegories, as well as the historical
incidents, at his tongue's end.
In one room, he told them, a treacherous leader of the Sienese forces
had been entrapped and stabbed to death by The Fifteen, who then were
the rulers of Siena, and he would have described fully these
blood-curdling events, if Ellen had permitted.
Finally, as they drove towards home, Richard pointed out several old
palaces in which leading families had lived, and in almost every case he
had a tale of Salimbeni or Tolomei or Saraceni in the days when the
followers of one great house would kill hundreds of the followers of the
other. "When," said Richard, "these narrow streets literally ran blood
in those old days of Guelph and Ghibelline."
"Thank you," said Irma faintly, as they reached their hotel, "I feel as
if I had swallowed a whole history."
"Well," responded Richard, "I thought it was well for you to accomplish
all you could this morning, for I don't see why you shouldn't make quick
work with Siena, and go on with us to-morrow or the next day to San
Gimignano."
"I don't know, I am sure, what Aunt Caroline's plans are," said Irma,
"but I can ask her."
Yet she realized that she could not repeat Richard's strange name.
"San--what?"