TIVOLI--AND HADRIAN'S VILLA
"Tivoli," said Irma, as they sat at luncheon in a pleasant garden not
far from the cascades, "has disappointed me."
"In what way?" asked Uncle Jim.
"Oh, the name sounds so bright and frivolous that you expect it to be
very gay here, and it isn't."
"The cataracts are lively."
"Yes, they foam and roar like the falls of Lodore, when you reach them,
but Tivoli itself is a crowded little town, and the people seem solemn.
Even the Temple of the Sibyl is shabby and dirty, without looking old."
"Irma turning pessimist," cried Uncle Jim. "But the town isn't the
whole of Tivoli. Villa d'Este is charming enough, unless it has changed
since my day, and then there's the road to Hadrian's villa!"
Marion took neither one side nor the other in the discussion. He had
talked to Irma little enough since their Vatican visit a day or two
before. Yet he was always polite, and she judged from the past that his
sulkiness would not last long.
The drive to the Villa d'Este was short, and as she stood on the terrace
looking over the tops of the pointed cypresses, Irma admitted that this
view alone was worth seeing.
"Ligorio, whom Cardinal Ippolito d'Este employed to construct this
villa, was certainly an artist," said Aunt Caroline, "and I am sure it
is true that there are few finer Renaissance villas in Italy."
[Illustration: WALL OF ORVIETO.
(_See page 211._)]
[Illustration: CASCADES AT TIVOLI.]
"If only it were not going to ruin so fast. Broken statuary and
moss-grown fountains are not very cheerful. But perhaps there are some
amusing stories connected with the place. What has the guide been saying
to you?" said Uncle Jim.
"Oh, he has been telling me that he is one of the most remarkable
guides in Europe, with government certificates and letters of
recommendation from innumerable tourists. The German Emperor depended on
him, so he says, on his visit two or three years ago, and, ah, yes--"
The guide had brought the party to a stop as he pointed to a stone bench
at the end of a path.
"Yes," continued Aunt Caroline, "let us sit down, one by one, for this
is the bench on which the Kaiser rested to get full enjoyment of the
vista of the house on the terrace at the end of the long avenue of
pointed cypresses. But come, he says he has even a finer view to show."
A few minutes' walk brought the party to a wall bounding one side of the
garden, whence they had a wide outlook over a flourishing country.
"He says," interpreted Aunt Caroline, "that where that large factory
stands was Maecenas's villa, and that Horace also had a farm not far
away."
"I could contradict him if it were worth while," said Uncle Jim,
"although it is true enough that many eminent Romans, including Augustus
himself, had villas in this neighborhood. But there are few sites of
which we are sure, except that of Hadrian's villa a hundred years
later."
The guide continued to pour out information and misinformation until
the party returned to the carriage, and he was even anxious to go with
them to Hadrian's villa.
"No, there we shall not need him," said Uncle Jim decidedly. "I have
studied the plans, and as we shall not attempt to explore a very large
part of the one hundred and seventy-nine acres, I believe I am equal to
my task of guide."
Leaving their carriage at the entrance, the party was soon at the
custodian's house. Here Aunt Caroline and Irma lingered to compare
pictures of Hadrian's villa as it is, with sketches showing the artist's
ideal of its original splendor. Other tourists were wandering about the
vast ruins, and the custodian was occupied with the first comers.
"Whether a palace or a collection of palaces, it is the most surprising
ruin I have ever seen," said Aunt Caroline. "Imagine what it must have
been in Hadrian's day! Many of the finest statues now in Rome were
unearthed here a few centuries ago, and these mosaic pavements and
broken columns give us an idea of the whole. It was really, I suppose, a
collection of magnificent buildings with baths and great halls and even
quarters for the imperial troops."
Irma, walking about, had a strange feeling of loneliness; she had never
seen a building so vast. It brought before her more vividly than
anything else she had seen the greatness of the Roman emperors. She
wished to be by herself, undisturbed by Aunt Caroline's continuous
explanations and Uncle Jim's facetious comments.
"Over there," said Marion, whom she met unexpectedly at a turn, "an
opening in the trees gives a fine view of the valley, with Tivoli on the
hills beyond."
As Marion did not offer to accompany her to the spot toward which he
pointed, Irma went on alone. Uncle Jim and Aunt Caroline were not far
away, and would doubtless follow soon enough.
"It was very good in Marion to tell me of this view," thought Irma, as
she looked over the valley. "He is getting over his sulkiness."
After waiting a few minutes, longer perhaps than she realized, Irma
turned back to the place where Marion had spoken to her. But now there
was no one in sight but a distant custodian, who was engrossed by a
tourist. "Where is Marion?" thought Irma, "and why did Uncle Jim and
Aunt Caroline turn about so quickly?"
At this moment she saw a small cube of green marble in her path. Though
it was very like the marble of the pavement on which she stood, she
could see no broken place.
"What a perfect paperweight it would make!" she thought. "I couldn't
have a finer souvenir from Hadrian's villa."
But as she was about to pick it up, the custodian suddenly turned his
head. She wondered if she were doing wrong. Yet the little green cube
still fascinated her and she waited until the custodian and the tourist
had moved out of sight.
While she waited Irma made a few notes in her book, and when she at last
felt that she could safely do it, she picked up the little piece of
marble and dropped it in her bag.
But now where should she go? She had a vague idea of the general
direction, yet she knew that a wrong turn might lead her far from the
entrance. How foolish she had been not to consult the custodian, and all
for a wretched piece of marble! For the moment she felt like throwing it
away.
The feeling of melancholy she had had since first entering the villa now
increased. The sun was low, and as she looked at her watch she saw it
was but ten minutes of train time.
"If, by any chance, we should become separated, you and Marion must
surely be at the station five minutes before train time," Uncle Jim had
said, while they were still in the carriage, pointing out the little
structure, where the steam tram for Rome made a stop.
"That is why they went on," thought Irma, "they supposed Marion was with
me, and now what _will_ they think?"
Now, strange though it may seem, when the tram pulled away from the
little station, Uncle Jim and Aunt Caroline did not realize Irma's
absence. After a hurried cup of tea, they had rushed for the cars with a
number of other passengers.
"Where's Irma?" Aunt Caroline had asked anxiously, as she took her own
seat.
"Oh, she's in the next car; I saw Marion helping her on." This was Uncle
Jim's honest opinion. But the girl whom Marion was assisting politely,
happened not to be Irma, but another girl of her general appearance, as
it seemed to near-sighted Uncle Jim.
Meanwhile Marion, quite unconscious that Irma was not with his uncle and
aunt in the forward car, surrendered himself to a book.
Poor Irma! She was not ashamed of the tears that began to fall, when
after several minutes' walk she found herself back at a point near where
she had found the unlucky bit of marble. It was far from a pleasant
prospect that she might spend the night at Hadrian's villa, twenty-five
miles from Rome.
She had no intention, naturally, of sitting still, and she felt sure
that eventually, probably even before dark, she might find her way out
to the custodian's house. The last tram for the day had returned to
Rome, and she wondered who would give her shelter for the night.
"Crying won't help," and she wiped away what she meant should be her
last tear. "I am sure I know the general direction, and if----"
"Hello, hello," cried a cheerful voice behind her, "a lady in distress,
and no one but me to rescue her. This is _remarkable_."
Irma started to her feet, almost ready to throw her arms around the
speaker, whom she had instantly recognized. Before her stood the fairy
godfather.
It did not take long to explain the situation, though the old gentleman
was rather outspoken in his words of blame for Marion and Uncle Jim.
"Your uncle evidently thought the boy was looking after you, and I must
say he deserves punishment, if he has gone back to Rome without you."
"Oh, it is my fault for not staying with the others."
"Well, well, that can be settled later; meanwhile, if you have really
seen all you wish of Hadrian's villa, I will conduct you outside, where
I have a carriage and pair. We can soon reach Tivoli, where I can send a
telegram that will meet your friends when they reach the end of the
route."
"But when shall I go back to Rome?"
"On the regular railroad from Tivoli. Fortunately it has an evening
train. Ah, here we are!"
As Irma waited at the little building at the entrance to the grounds,
where post cards and other relics were sold, she saw a piece of marble,
almost the counterpart of the one that had made her lose her way. She
did not buy it, in spite of her first impulse.
"I believe it's not wrong for me to keep the other piece," she thought.
"In one way it has taught me a lesson."
On their way to Tivoli the old gentleman seemed more inclined to get
Irma's impressions of Rome, rather than to talk freely himself. She did
not, therefore, venture to ask where he had been since their landing at
Naples, nor even whether he had been long in Rome.
This last question seemed unnecessary, as the old gentleman's
conversation showed a wide acquaintance with modern as well as ancient
Rome. Irma had begun, however, to ask him one or two questions about
Roman school children, when without replying he said abruptly, "Now,
tell me, don't you think there are too many churches in Rome?"
"There _are_ a great many," replied Irma, smiling, "and I shall not have
seen more than a tenth of them, even if I stay here a month longer."
"Then you do not care for them?"
"Oh, I simply haven't time. Indeed, I care for some of them. I used to
think church legends rather hard to believe, but now they mean much more
to me. Perhaps I did not like San Pietro in Montorio as well as some
others when I first saw it the other day, but it meant more when I found
they believe it is built on the very spot where the apostle was
martyred, and so, while the church of San Paolo seems too large and
splendid, still it is beautiful to have a church to mark St. Paul's
burial place."
"Yes, Rome constantly reminds us what the martyrs suffered. You came out
the San Lorenzo gate to-day?"
"Yes."
"Well, the church of San Lorenzo just beyond honors St. Lawrence, whose
story is one of the most pathetic. He was assistant to the Bishop Sextus
II, and when the latter was condemned to death he begged that he might
die with him. 'In three days you shall follow me,' said Sextus. St.
Lawrence was a young man of great personal beauty, and he had been a
devoted friend to the poor. Sextus directed him to distribute the
treasure of the Church among the poor, and when he was asked by the
Tyrant to show the treasure, he gathered about him those he had helped.
His bravery and piety converted his jailer, Hippolytus, and he met his
death--roasting on a gridiron--with the greatest bravery. Whether the
story is wholly true, there was certainly a brave martyr named Lawrence.
St. Cecilia, too, is another martyr who ought to interest you. Ah, Rome
is full of such memories! But this is not a cheerful subject for a girl
who has lost her relatives." In an instant the old gentleman had turned
the subject, giving Irma an entertaining account of Easter week
celebrations that he had once seen in Rome.
As a result of the despatch from Tivoli, Uncle Jim was at the station to
meet Irma.
"You gave us a great fright," he said reproachfully. "We did not
discover that you were missing until we had almost reached Rome."
"Don't scold the young lady," said the fairy godfather. "It was the
fault of that boy." He spoke so sternly that Irma was glad Marion was
not present. Yet Uncle Jim did not resent this speech. It almost seemed
as if he had met the old gentleman before. Then, with a bare
acknowledgment of the thanks that Uncle Jim showered on him for his care
of Irma and his thoughtfulness in telegraphing, the old gentleman jumped
into a carriage and drove rapidly away.
"Do you know him, Uncle Jim?" asked Irma.
"I must have seen him on the _Ariadne_," he replied.
"My dear Chris and Rudolph," wrote Irma a few days later.
"This is to be a long letter, because we have a rainy day and I can
spare the time. For my trunk is packed, and to-morrow we leave Rome.
"In the first place, you wish to know about the seven hills. Well, I
believe they are all here, only they have been so built upon or so
levelled that they are hard to find. Even in old times the Palatine and
the Aventine were the only hills worth speaking of, and they are still
fairly steep. Not so long ago they showed a small hut on the Palatine
called Romulus's house that had been preserved since the earliest days.
So it seems certain that Romulus and Remus were real people, and if we
needed more proof, not long since they discovered an old tomb in the
Forum which they are quite sure was the grave of Romulus. I have looked
down into it, and am willing to believe this, too. On the Palatine now
are the ruins of the enormous palaces of the emperors. Generally only
parts of the high walls are standing, but from these you get an idea of
the grandeur of ancient Rome. On the walls of one house (The House of
the Pages it is supposed to be) they found a rough little drawing, such
as a boy might scratch on a blackboard to-day, the picture of a donkey,
and under it: 'Work, little ass, as I have worked, and may it profit
thee.'
"Besides the palaces they have unearthed the small house of Germanicus,
in which we saw some good wall paintings, and what would interest you
more, lead pipes for carrying water, almost like those we use in our
houses.
"We spent one day in the Forum with a special guide, who made everything
so plain! I saw the place where Caesar fell at the foot of Pompey's
statue. They are constantly unearthing new things in the Forum, and Aunt
Caroline says it is really twice as large as it was when she was last
here. The beautiful House of the Vestals interested me the most.
"The Colosseum is some distance from the Forum, and you know it from
photographs. Only no picture can really give you a good idea of its
size. When you stand inside you feel as if you were hardly larger than a
fly.
"Rome, for the first few days, seemed like a big, new city, with bright
shops and rushing trolley cars and _carabinieri_ in cocked hats
sauntering about. But I soon began to see old Rome everywhere. You have
to patch it together as you go about. Pavements and columns from ancient
temples are found in the Middle Age churches. Alabaster and colored
marbles from all over the world were brought to Rome, and as late as the
fifth century there were thirty-six marble arches, hundreds of temples,
and many great baths, circuses, and fine private houses, besides the
rows of tall houses arranged in flats in which ordinary people lived.
There were also a great many fine statues, nearly all of which have
disappeared. In the Middle Ages, when people wished to build new houses
and churches, they simply pulled down some fine old Roman temple or
palace and so got building materials without any expense. But there is
enough of ancient Rome left to help form a picture of what it was.
Sometime I hope you will see it all, the old wall with its towers, the
Appian Way with its tombs and monuments.
"But old Rome is only a part of what we enjoy. The streets are bright
and gay with so many people driving about, and soldiers in uniforms
sometimes marching, sometimes walking along the sidewalks like ordinary
people. Then often we meet twenty or thirty school children dressed just
alike, taking exercise in the care of sisters, or priests in their
church dress. Then there are a great many theological students studying
in Rome, and some of them wear broad red or broad blue sashes, or have
other colored trimmings on their long black robes.
"I dare say you are disappointed that we have not seen the king and
queen--I wrote mother about Margherita--but I have been all through the
royal palace, the Quirinal, and will tell you about it when I come
home."