NAPLES AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD
At Naples Irma saw that if she attempted to record half that interested
her, no diary would be large enough, and if she tried to describe things
at length, there would be time for little else. So she made rather brief
notes, which, when she reached home would recall what she had seen, so
that she could then describe at greater length to the family.
A more experienced traveller might have been less interested in the
Royal Palace, but, since it was her first palace, Irma found in it an
air of romance that Uncle Jim was inclined to scoff at. It was a long,
imposing building, with eight statues on the facade, representing the
different dynasties that had governed Naples: Roger the Norman, Frederic
II of Hohenstaufen, Charles I of Anjou, Alphonse I, Charles V, Charles
III of Bourbon, Joachim Murat, and Victor Emanuel.
"Poor Neapolitans!" exclaimed Uncle Jim. "No wonder they are restless,
so often changing rulers, and until now seldom having kings who cared a
farthing for them. Even before these Normans there were Greeks, Oscans,
Romans, Goths, and Byzantines, all to take their turn here in Southern
Italy. Neapolitans are naturally turbulent and troublesome in America.
It will take them some time to learn to govern themselves."
"We are not out to listen to history lectures. We simply wish to see
things," said Aunt Caroline.
"But this palace is in such bad taste. I am trying to divert your minds
from its hideous furnishings."
Though in her secret heart Irma admired the throne room, with its gold
embroidered, crimson velvet furniture, enormous Sevres and Dresden
vases, and its more artistic bronze busts, later, perhaps, what she
remembered best of this visit was the magnificent terrace view of the
harbor and the Arsenal.
"Do the Neapolitans get their love of noise from all those ancestors
you were talking about, Uncle Jim?" she asked, as they drove along the
broad Toledo, where the crack of whips, the braying of donkeys, and the
shouts of hawkers prevented conversation. Uncle Jim raised his hand
deprecatingly, as if an adequate reply were then impossible.
"There," cried Aunt Caroline. "I understand why the people of Naples use
gestures so largely. You know they can carry on long conversations
without a word. By use of their hands they can make themselves
understood above the din of the streets."
"A good theory, if gesture were not as common in the country districts
as in Naples."
Here Marion interrupted. "We might stop at the Catacombs to-day, if you
wish."
"I don't wish," cried Irma decidedly.
Marion looked at her with surprise.
"No Catacombs to-day, only Capo di Monte," returned Aunt Caroline.
Then they drove swiftly past one or two squares containing statues, one
a monument to Dante, and at last, at the Bosco, they showed their
permits. They felt the charm of the gardens around Capo di Monte, laid
out in English style, but they did not linger in the Palace itself;
Marion said the Sword of Scandberg was the one thing he had come to see,
and though he spent a few minutes in the armory, he gave but a passing
glance at the high colored Capo di Monte ware.
"My mother has some of that," he said, as Aunt Caroline called his
attention to a particularly beautiful piece.
"Isn't it very valuable?" asked Irma.
He made no reply. Perhaps he did not hear her. But Irma remembered that
she had never before heard Marion refer to his mother.
That very afternoon, while the others rested, Marion explored the city
by himself, and came back in great spirits. He had been up in the
_lanterna_, or lighthouse, where he had had a magnificent view of the
town, and in the Villa del Popolo, a great open square, he had come upon
one of the public readers who daily gather there at a certain hour, and
read aloud from some of the great poets to a circle of auditors; each of
whom had paid a small price for the privilege of listening. He had
glanced also at the University, which has four thousand students and one
hundred professors.
Of the whole party, Marion, indeed, saw the most of Naples. He went
among the fishermen at the wharves; he inspected the old mediaeval forts,
Castello St. Elmo, so magnificently situated on the heights, Castello
dell' Ovo by the water, and the others. He brought home many little bits
of amusing folklore, gathered from the boatmen, especially regarding
their belief in the evil eye. In his new, friendly mood, he shared the
results of his wanderings, until Irma began to think him a decidedly
entertaining boy.
The visit to the Museum took a whole day, and tired though she was at
the end, Irma declared she would gladly spend another day there. For
now, for the first time, she saw many a fine statue that she had seen
before only in pictures, and she was surprised to learn that many of
these had been dug up from the ruins of Pompeii; the boy with the
dolphin, the boy with the goose, and the charming Narcissus pleased her
more than the colossal Farnese Hercules and the group of the Farnese
bull.
"Our sculptors cannot get ahead of those old fellows," said Uncle Jim,
"though I can't give the same praise to their painters." And Irma agreed
with him, as she looked at the Pompeian frescoes.
But neither paintings nor sculptures interested her as did the household
utensils, the ornaments, and the jewels from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
"Designers of jewelry and other beautiful things to-day get some of
their best ideas from these treasures of Pompeii," explained Uncle Jim,
after Irma had told him that she had seen Gertrude's mother wear a
bracelet the counterpart of one they were looking at.
Yet as they passed from case to case, and from room to room, Irma
thought less of the beauty, or even of the usefulness of these things,
than of the unhappy people to whom they had belonged who had been buried
under the hot ashes of Vesuvius. In glass vessels she saw grains and
fruits that the lava had preserved from decay, and in the cases there
were loaves of much the same appearance as when the baker took them from
the oven. These homely things brought the sufferings of the Pompeians
much nearer than did the great treasure chests, or some of the more
valuable objects in the collection.
"I feel as if I had been at a funeral," she murmured to Aunt Caroline,
and she was not sorry that the closing hour had come.
"I'll show you something more cheerful to-morrow," suggested Marion.
"They have the most wonderful Aquarium here. It can't be better than
ours in New York, even if it is more famous. So I wish you would come
with me to-morrow and tell me what you think."
"But I have never seen the New York Aquarium," ventured Irma.
"Then you must believe what I tell you about it."
The next morning Irma set off with Marion. She had learned from Uncle
Jim that this Aquarium in Naples, founded by Dr. Dohrn, a German, was
really a scientific institution where students from all parts of the
world could study the lowest forms of marine life, the finest examples
of which are found in the Bay of Naples.
Marion and Irma found that the larger part of the white Aquarium
building was given to rooms for students and to the library. The fish
were in the lower part, underground it seemed to her. As she walked
about from cave to cave, for so she called the glass-fronted caverns
where the fish were swimming about, she began to shiver.
"Are you cold?" asked Marion, anxiously.
"No, but these fish seem more disagreeable than the things from
Pompeii."
"They are certainly different," responded Marion, successfully resisting
a desire to smile.
"I rather like the living coral," continued Irma, "though it seems queer
to see coral branches waving to and fro as if they were getting ready to
swim, and some of the fish are funny, but some are really gruesome. I
shall be haunted for a long time by this horrible thing," pointing to a
jellylike mass that suddenly hurled itself through the water, and sent
out innumerable legs, or arms, ready to grasp and destroy everything
within reach.
After inspecting all the cases, Marion and Irma went out the door behind
two girls who were talking rather loudly.
"How foolish you are, Katie Grimston," cried one of them, and at the
sound of this name Irma looked toward Marion as if expecting some word
from him.
Though he made no comment, he, too, looked with some interest at the
girls, as they stood outside awaiting their carriage.
"Oh, dear," exclaimed Irma, as the two drove away, "I wish I had spoken
to them."
"Do you know them?"
"No, but still I might have spoken, for one called the other 'Katie
Grimston,' and that is the name of the girl that Nap used to belong to.
I wish I had spoken to her."
"One thing may console you: when you once run across people in Europe,
you are sure to meet them again. You know we've been meeting some one
from the ship every day since we landed. But I'll keep my eye open for
your friend, Katie Grimston."
"I shouldn't exactly call her a friend."
"She's a friend until she proves an enemy. But in any case I'll watch
for her. Perhaps she's a friend of mine. I'm sure I know one of those
girls, and, by the way, wouldn't you prefer the New York Aquarium?"
"Yes," responded Irma, "as I have seen only this one, I am sure I'd
prefer the other."
When they returned to the hotel, Marion and Irma found Aunt Caroline and
Uncle Jim enthusiastic over their excursion to Posilipo, declined by the
young people in favor of the Aquarium.
"You missed it, Marion," said Uncle Jim, "the region where we have been
is just filled with classical memories. The Posilipo was a favorite
stamping ground of Virgil's. He wrote the Georgics and the AEneid there,
and you can have as long an argument as you wish with the guides as to
whether the tomb they show is really his or some other fellow's. If you
say it is, Petrarch and Bocaccio, who used to go there, are on your
side. Not far off, between Puteoli and Baiae, Caligula performed some
foolish stunt of his on a bridge of boats. Or, if that doesn't content
you, you can remember that Augustus was fond of the Posilipo. You can
also hunt for the ruins of the villa of Lucullus. Our friends, the Roman
patricians, loved this region. Instead of digging up ruins, your aunt
and I just sat in front of one of the little cafes and incidentally had
a magnificent view."
"Yes, we didn't try to go on to Solfaterra," continued Aunt Caroline,
"though some one who had been there told a tale of fissures from which
gas was exuding, and of remarkable sounds of water boiling violently not
far beneath the surface when you put your ear to the ground."
"Isn't Puteoli the place where St. Paul landed?" asked Irma timidly.
"Yes, my dear, and he found a number of Christians there to welcome
him. Indeed, all the region of the Posilipo and beyond, has so many
associations that we ought to spend a week here."
"Come," said Uncle Jim, "we must all agree to be true philosophers. The
rapid flight of time and the shortness of human life in general compel
us to let many delightful places go unvisited. Like everything in life,
it's a question of choices. While we try to see the most important
things along our route, we must still neglect other things and places
that are not unimportant."
"Capri, for example," murmured Marion.
"Nothing could induce me to repeat that odious trip," and Aunt Caroline
shuddered at the remembrance. "Bad landings, and boats so overcrowded,
combined with rough water, make it positively dangerous, at least to
one's nerves. If I could fly, I'd go there gladly."
"But isn't Capri very beautiful?" queried Irma.
"And the blue grotto something no one should miss?" added Marion.
"You children can go there, if you prefer it to Paestum."
"What is Paestum?" asked Irma.
"Not to know Paestum--and you a school girl fitting for college. Now I
shall insist on your going with me. For certainly, you have one thing to
learn, 'What is Paestum!'" and Uncle Jim walked away, as if quite in
despair at Irma's ignorance.
"Capri really is beautiful," continued Aunt Caroline, turning to Marion
and Irma. "Its men and women are fine types. As I remember there were
quantities of flowers around the pretty little white cottages, and
charming scenery at every turn. I don't know whether the people still
wear their picturesque costumes, and make soft, high-colored ribbons and
weave beautiful white woolen materials. But I imagine it is less changed
than some other parts of Italy, and if you should go there five years
from now, you would probably find it just the same. They still give a
wonderful fete in July or August to ward off the grape disease. They
have celebrated it for centuries with dancing and sports, but, as they
carry a cross at the head of the procession, they fancy it's religious."
"It sounds great," said Marion, "but we can't wait until midsummer. If
I should go, I'd hunt up the ruins of Tiberius's villas. This was his
favorite resort, and so terribly cruel was he that mothers still
threaten bad children that 'Timberio' will get them. I believe a steep
rock is shown from which he used to throw his victims into the sea
below."
"Well done, Marion. If we have time perhaps we'll go to Capri in spite
of the wretched boats. But failing that we'll visit Vedder's studio in
Rome. He has a summer villa at Capri, and if he has not used Capri types
in his pictures, he can tell us about the people."