DISP. 9--Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be called
Canton crêpe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the manufacturer
can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread Japan for filling at a little
difference in cost, thus the cloth will be heavier, but Canton silk is not
as even and clean as Japan.
[Page 104]
Article--TAFFETA GLACE Reed 70/3
Disp. 1 Width 18¾ in.
Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 12/14 $5.00 raw silk
.60 throwing
2-Thread Organ. brown bright .45 dyeing
16-oz. .15 winding
-----
raw lbs. 2.60 $6.20 $16.23
Warping--4032 at 3¢. 1.21
Twisting--3978 at 25¢. per 300 meters .33
Filling--Jap. Tram. Best No. 1 13/15 $4.25 raw silk
.45 throwing
2/2 ends 104 picks .45 dyeing
.15 winding
gold bright 16 oz. .15 doubling
.10 quilling
-----
raw lbs. 2.73 $5.55 15.02
Weaving 7.00
Picking 1.00
Finishing 1.00
Expenses 7.00
------
$48.79
5% trade discount
7½% selling commission
Divide by 87½
Cost per yard = $0.5576
* * * *
Article--SURAH 3-1 Reed 80/2
Disp. 2 Width 36 in.
Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 10/12 $5.20
.65
2-Thread Organ. bright black .81 discount 15%
24 oz. .30 dyed 20%
-----
lbs. 3.36 $6.96 $23.39
Warping--5904 at 2¾¢. 1.62
Twisting--5872 at 35¢.--600 lb. warp .25
Filling--cotton 120/1 $1.25
.10 dye
black 1 end 120 picks .08 winding
.07 quilling
-----
lbs. 9.50 $1.50 14.25
Weaving 12.00
Picking 1.50
Finishing 2.00
Expenses 7.00
-----
$62.01
5% discount
6% commission
Divide by 89
Cost per yard = $0.6967
* * * *
[Page 105]
Article--SATIN DUCHESSE Reed 66/4
Disp. 3 Width 2 x 23 in.
Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14 $5.00
.60
2-Thread Organ. black bright .73
22 oz. .21
-----
lbs. 8.50 $6.54 $55.59
Warping--12624 at 2¾¢. 3.47
Twisting--12256 at 25¢. 600 meters .51
Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1--14/16 $4.00
.40
black souple 44 oz. 1.60 net
.40
1/2 and 1/3 = 1/5 80 picks .40 doubling
.30
-----
lbs. 7.14 $7.10 50.69
Weaving 13.00
Picking 2.00
Finishing 2.50
Expenses 8.00
-------
$135.76
Divide by 89
Cost per yard = $0.7627
* * * *
Article--ARMURE SATIN Reed 60/4
Disp. 4 Width 26 in.
STOCK AND DYE
Warp--Jap. Ex. 12/14 $4.75
.60
2-Thread Organ. black bright .64
20 oz. .19
-----
lbs. 4.30 $6.18 $26.57
Warping--6520 at 2¾¢. 1.79
Twisting--6424 at 25¢. 600 meters .27
Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1 16/18 $4.00
.30
black bright 26 oz. .94
.25
2/3 ends 104 picks .25
.17
-----
lbs. 6.80 $5.91 40.19
Weaving 10.00
Picking 1.00
Finishing 1.00
Expenses 7.00
------
$87.82
Divide by 89
Cost per yard = $0.9867
* * * *
[Page 106]
Article--PRINTED ARMURE Reed 52/2/2
Disp. 5 Width 18½ in.
STOCK AND DYE
Warp--Ital. Ex. Class. 12/14 $5.00
2-Thread Organ. white bright .60
P.D. .23
.12
-----
lbs. 2.62 $5.95 $15.59
Warping--3984/1 at 3¢. 1.20
Twisting--1992/2 at 30¢. 300 meters .20
Filling--Ital. Tram. souple 13/14 $4.50
.30
white bright P.D. .23
.10
1/5 end 96 picks .07
-----
lbs. 3.08 $5.20 16.02
Weaving 8.00
Picking 1.00
Finishing and Printing 5.00
Expenses 8.00
------
$55.01
Divide by 87½
Cost per yard = $0.6287
* * * *
[Page 107]
Article--SATIN STRIPED REPS Reed 60/62
Disp. 6 Width 20¼ in.
STOCK AND DYE
Warp--Ital. Ex. Organ. 24/26 $5.00
black bright 22 oz. .60
.73
.21
-----
lbs. 3.56 $6.54 $23.28
Ital. Ex. Organ. 18/20 $5.20
.65
sky bright P.D. .23
.12
-----
lbs. .83 $6.20 5.15
Cotton 100/2 $1.00
.12
.08
-----
scarlet lbs. 1.37 $1.20 1.64
Warping--8316 at 4¢. 3.32
Twisting--7434 at 50¢. 300 meters 1.24
Filling--Jap. tram. No. 1 14/16 $4.00
.35
scarlet bright 16 oz. 1/3 ends .45
.15
144 picks. lbs. 3.57 .10
-----
$5.05 18.04
Weaving 12.00
Picking 1.00
Finishing 1.00
------
$66.67
Expenses 15% 10.00
------
$76.67
Divide by 87½
Cost per yard = $0.8763
* * * *
[Page 108]
Article--MESSALINE BROCADE Reed 60/3
Disp. 7 Width 23 in.
Warp--Jap. Ex. 13/15 $4.50
.60
2-Thread navy bright 16 oz. .45
.15
----
lbs. 3.20 $5.70 $18.24
Warping--4320 at 3¢. 1.30
Twisting--4260 at 30¢. 300 meters .41
Filling--Jap. Tram No. 1 13/15 $4.00
.35
emerald ex. bright dye 24 oz. .95
.25
1/3 ends 100 picks .15
-----
lbs. 2.50 $5.70 14.25
Weaving 9.00
Picking 1.00
Finishing 1.00
------
$45.20
Expenses 15% 6.78
------
$51.98
Divide by 87½
Cost per yard = $0.5941
* * * *
Article--BENGALINE Reed 72/2 by 1 single; 1 double
Disp. 8 Width 36 in.
Warp--Jap. ex. 13/15 $4.50
.60
2-Thread Organ. black bright .64
20 oz. .19
-----
lbs. 5.77 $5.93 $34.22
Warping--7964 at 2¾¢. 2.19
Twisting--5296 at 30¢. 600 meters .27
Filling--56 picks by $4.50
5 organ. 2 Cotton .60
.64
.19 .45
.12 .10
-----
40 picks Organ. as warp $6.05 .08 6.05
lbs. 1 .07
16 picks black cotton 15/4 -----
lbs. 22.50 $ .70 15.75
Weaving 12.00
Picking 1.50
Finishing 3.00
Expenses 8.00
------
$82.98
Divide by 91
Cost per yard = $0.9119
* * * *
[Page 109]
Article--CREPE DE CHINE (Taffeta weave) Reed 60/2/2
Disp. 9 Width 40 in.
44½ in. in reed
Warp--Jap. Ex. Grege 20/22 $4.50
.05 winding
-----
2% waste lbs. 5.60 $4.55 $25.48
Warping--5340/2 at 2½¢. 2.67
Twisting--5340/2 at 25¢. 600 meters .23
Filling--Jap. No. 1 13/15
4 ends hard twist 60 turns $4.00
1.25 throwing
84 picks by 2 right, 2 left 0.05 quilling
twist -----
25% waste and shrinkage $5.30
lbs. 6.00 31.80
Weaving 9.00
Finishing and dyeing 5.00
Picking 1.00
Expenses 7.00
------
$82.18
5% discount
5% selling expense
Divide by 90
Cost per yard = $0.9131
* * * *
Article--CREPE GEORGETTE Reed 50/2
(Taffeta weave) by 1 right, 1 left twist
Disp. 10 Width 40 in. 47 in. in reed
Warp--Ital. Ex. Class 16/18 Raw $5.20
1.60
-----
2-Thread hardtwist 75 turns $6.80 $36.72
30% shrinkage and waste lbs. 5.40
Warping--4640/1 30/2 4760 at 4¢. 1.90
Twisting--4700 at 50¢. 600 meters .40
Filling--Same silk as warp
100 picks by 2 right, 2 left
twist $5.20
1.60
.10
----
lbs. 5.00 $6.90 34.50
Weaving 15.00
Picking 1.00
Finishing and dyeing 6.00
------
$95.52
Expenses 12½% 11.94
-------
$107.46
Divide by 87½
Cost per yard = $1.2281
[Page 110]
CALCULATION BLANK