[Illustration: Fig. 80]
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[Page 59]
_Repp_ on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 threads per section.
[Illustration: Fig. 81]
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[Page 60]
PEKINS
With this name we designate fabrics in which stripes of a different
interlacing run in the direction of the warp. In combining these weaves it
is advantageous to have them contrast distinctly, for instance, a short
weave such as taffeta or Gros de Tours, with a longer and looser one such
as satin, sergé or cannele, also changes from warp to filling effects. Care
must be taken to arrange the joining of the two weaves so that the last
thread of one weave will cross the first thread of the other. This will
prevent the threads from either stripe to slide over into the other, and so
make a clean cut line.
#Pekin.# A stripe of
2 dents of 8 ends each, 8 shaft Satin, on 8 shafts straight draw.
12 " 2 " Taffeta " 4 " " "
[Illustration: Fig. 82]
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[Page 61]
#Pekin#. A stripe of
12 ends Cannele of 6 picks on 1st section of 4 shafts.
12 " Repp " 6 threads on 2d and 3d section of 2 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 83]
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[Page 62]
#Pekin.# A stripe of
10 ends 5 leaf Satin on the 1st section of 5 shafts straight draw.
4 " Taffeta " 3d " 2 " " "
18 " Serge 3-1, 1-1 " 2d " 6 " " "
[Illustration: Fig. 84]
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[Page 63]
BAYADÈRES
While pekins are formed by warp stripes, bayadère shows us stripes of
different weaves running in the direction of the filling. The rules given
in the previous chapter as to the joining of the weaves will also apply
here. The warp which was raised on the last pick of the weave must stay
down wherever possible on the first pick of the following weave. The number
of shafts employed must go up evenly in the repeat of each one of the
weaves that go into the make up of the bayadère.
#Bayadère#
A stripe of 24 picks Gros de Tours }
} on 8 shafts straight through.
" 8 " 8-shaft Satin, }
[Illustration: Fig. 85]
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[Page 64]
#Bayadère#
A stripe of 18 picks 6-shaft Satin }
" 6 " Serge 5-1, } on 6 shafts, straight draw.
" 4 " Taffeta, }
[Illustration: Fig. 86]
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[Page 65]
CHECKS AND PLAIDS
If pekin and bayadère stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics, and
of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with the
aid of suitable color combinations.
#Check#
of 16 threads and 12 picks of the 4 end broken twill,
and 16 " " 12 " " Royale of 8 threads,
drawn on 4 sections of 4 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 87]
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[Page 66]
#Check#
of 20 threads and 16 picks of 8-shaft Satin,
" 20 " " 16 " " Taffeta,
4 " " Surah 3-1,
drawn on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 88]
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[Page 67]
DECOMPOSITION
Under the name of _Disposition_ we comprise all those points and details
which we must ascertain before we can proceed with the construction of a
fabric. They are: