The distinct diagonal lines which characterize the class of weaves
explained in the previous chapter are absent in the satin weaves; and while
the interlacing in the former is done in a strictly consecutive order, we
endeavor to scatter the points of stitching in the latter as much as
possible, in order to create an entirely smooth and brilliant surface on
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the cloth.
In all satins the number of ends in a repeat is the same in warp and
filling.
The lowest repeat of a regular satin comprises five threads of each system,
and the interlacing is done in the following order:
The 1st pick with the 1st warp-thread
" 2d " " 3d "
" 3d " " 5th "
" 4th " " 2d "
" 5th " " 4th "
Fig. 43 illustrates this weave. An examination of the rotation, as given
above, will show that every warp-thread intersects two picks apart from its
neighbor. The number "2" is in this case what is technically known as the
_counter_, that is the number which indicates the points of interlacing by
adding it to number 1 and continuing so until all the warp-threads are
taken up.
The following is the rule to find the counter for any regular satin:
Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be equal
nor have a common divisor. Any of these two numbers can be used for
counting off, but usually the smaller one is taken. According to this rule
we obtain a regular satin
On 5 harness with counter 2
" 7 " " 2 or 3
" 8 " " 3
" 9 " " 2 or 4
" 10 " " 3
" 11 " " 2, 3, 4 or 5
" 12 " " 5
" 13 " " 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6
" 14 " " 3 or 5
" 15 " " 2, 4 or 7
" 16 " " 3, 5 or 7.
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The 4 harness broken twill, Fig. 53, is sometimes classed among the satins.
The 6 harness satin, Fig. 54, is irregular; as a counter cannot be derived
from number 6 by the given rule. The rotation generally used is 1, 3, 6, 4,
2, 5.
* * * * *