THE ENGLISH REFUSE TO CEDE THE COLONY OF SENEGAL TO THE
FRENCH--THE WHOLE OF THE FRENCH EXPEDITION ARE OBLIGED TO GO AND
ENCAMP ON THE PENINSULA OF CAPE VERD--THE PICARD FAMILY OBTAIN
LEAVE OF THE ENGLISH GOVERNOR TO REMAIN AT SENEGAL--POVERTY OF
THAT FAMILY--ASSISTANCE WHICH THEY RECEIVE--ENTERPRISE OF M.
PICARD--RESTORATION OF THE COLONY TO THE FRENCH--DESCRIPTION OF
SENEGAL AND ITS ENVIRONS.
At nine o'clock next morning, after our arrival, we felt quite free from
all our fatigues. We arose, and, as soon as we were dressed, went to
thank our generous host and hostess, Mr and Mrs Kingsley; then went to
see our parents; and afterwards returned to our benefactors, who were
waiting breakfast for us. Our conversation was frequently interrupted
during our meal, as they were but little acquainted with the French
language, and we knew nothing of English. After breakfast we learned
that the English governor had not received any orders for giving up the
colony to the French; and until that took place, the whole of the
French expedition would be obliged to go to the peninsula of Cape Verd,
distant from Senegal about fifty leagues. This information distressed us
much, but our affliction was at its height, when my father came and told
that the French governor, M. Schmaltz, had ordered him to quit Senegal
with all his family, and go and stay at Cape Verd, until farther orders.
Mr and Mrs Kingsley, sensibly affected with the misfortunes we had
already experienced, assured us they would not part with us, and that
they would endeavour to obtain the permission of the English governor.
In fact, on the following day, that gentleman informed us by his
aid-de-camp, that, having seen the wretched condition in which our
family were, he had allowed us to remain at Senegal, and that he had
permitted all the officers of the Medusa to stay. This renewed instance
of the benevolence of the English governor tranquillized us. We remained
comfortably at the house of our benefactors; but a great part of our
unhappy companions in misfortune, fearing if they stayed at Senegal they
would disobey the French governor, set off for Cape Verd, where hunger
and death awaited them. Our family lived nearly twenty days with our
benevolent hosts MM. Artigue and Kingsley; but my father, fearing we
were too great a burden for the extraordinary expenses which they made
each day for us, hired a small apartment, and, on the first of August,
we took possession of it, to the great regret of our generous friends,
who wished us to stay with them till the surrender of the colony. When
we were settled in out new habitation, my father sent a petition to M.
Schmaltz, for the purpose of obtaining provisions from the general
magazine of the French administration; but, angry with the reception we
had met with from the English, he replied he could not give him any
thing. Nevertheless, several French officers, who, like ourselves, had
remained at Senegal, each day received their rations, or, which was
better, were admitted to the table of M. D----, with whom also the
governor, his family and staff, messed. It may be remarked here, that
this same M. D----, advanced to the governor of the forts, in provisions
and money, to the amount of 50,000 francs; and, it was the general
opinion, found means to charge cent. per cent. on these advances, as a
small perquisite for himself; moreover, he received, at the request of
the governor, the decoration of the Legion of Honour. But I return to
that which concerns myself. My father being unable to obtain any thing,
either from the governor or M. D----, was obliged to borrow money to
enable us to subsist. We were reduced to feed on negroes food, for our
means would not allow us to purchase bread at 15 sous the pound, and
wine at 3 francs the bottle. However, we were content, and perfectly
resigned to our fate; when an English officer, Major Peddie, came and
visited us precisely at the moment we were at dinner. That gentleman,
astonished at seeing an officer of the French administration dining upon
a dish of Kouskou,[7] said to my father: "How, Mr Picard! you being in
the employment of your government, and living so meanly!" Mortified that
a stranger should have seen his misery, my father felt his tears
flowing; but, instantly collecting himself, said in a calm yet firm
tone, "Know, Sir, that I blush not for my poverty, and that you have
wronged me by upbraiding me. It is true I have not food like the other
Europeans in the colony; but I do not consider myself the more
unfortunate. I have requested the man who represents my sovereign in
this country, to give me the rations to which I have a right; but he has
had the inhumanity to refuse. But what of that? I know how to submit,
and my family also." Major Peddie, at these words, touched with our
misfortunes, and vexed, doubtless, at having mortified us, though that
certainly was not his intention, bade us good bye, and retired. Early on
the morning of next day, we received a visit from M. Dubois, mayor of
the town of St Louis in Senegal. That good and virtuous magistrate told
us he had come, at the instance of the English governor, to offer us
assistance; viz. an officer's allowance, which consisted of bread, wine,
meat, sugar, coffee, &c. As my father had not been able to procure any
thing from governor Schmaltz, he thought it his duty to accept that
which the English governor had so generously offered. We thanked M.
Dubois; and, in a few hours afterwards, we had plenty of provisions sent
to us.
[Footnote 7: Vide Note A.]
If my father had made himself some enemies among the authors of the
shipwreck of the Medusa, and the abandoning the raft, he was recompensed
by real good friends among the old inhabitants of Senegal, who, with
himself, deplored the fate of the unfortunate beings who were left in
the midst of the ocean. Among the numerous friends my father had, I
ought particularly to mention the families of Pellegrin, Darneville,
Lamotte, Dubois, Artigue, Feuilletaine, Laboure, Valentin, Debonnet,
Boucaline, Waterman, &c.: And in truth all the inhabitants of Senegal,
if we except one family, were disposed to befriend us. Even the poor
negroes of the interior, after hearing of our misfortunes, came and
offered us a small share of their crop. Some gave us beans, others
brought us milk, eggs, &c.; in a word, every one offered us some
assistance, after they had heard to what misery our shipwreck had
reduced us.
About a month after our arrival at Senegal, we went to look at the
islands of Babaguey and Safal, situated about two leagues from the town
of St Louis. The first of these islands had been given to M. Artigue,
who had cultivated it; the other had been given to my father in 1807,
and he had planted in it about one hundred thousand cotton plants, when
the capture of Senegal by the English in 1809 obliged him to abandon his
projects, and return to France.
Those who have seen the countries of Europe, and admired the fine soil
of France, need not expect to enjoy the same scene at Senegal. Every
where nature shows a savage and arid aspect; every where the dregs of a
desert and parched soil presents itself to the view; and it is only by
care and unremitting toil it can be made to produce any thing. All the
cotton which my father had planted in the island of Safal had been
devoured by the cattle during his absence; he found not a plant. He then
proposed to begin again his first operations. After having walked round
the island of Safal, we went to dine with M. Artigue in the island of
Babaguey, where we spent the remainder of the day, and in the evening
returned to the town of Senegal. Some days after this jaunt, my father
endeavoured to find whether the plants with which the island was covered
would be useful in making potass. He arranged with a person in Senegal
to hire for him some negroes, and a canoe to gather the ashes of the
plants after they were burned. A covered gallery which we had in the
small house we inhabited, seemed convenient to hold the apparatus of our
manufacture. Here we placed our coppers. We then commenced the making of
potass, waiting for the surrender of the colony. The first essay we made
gave us hopes. Our ashes produced a potass of fine colour, and we did
not doubt of succeeding, when we should have sent a sample of it to
France. We made about four barrels, and my father sent a box of it to a
friend of his at Paris to analyze. Whilst waiting the reply of the
chemist, he hired three negroes to begin the cultivation of his island
of Safal. He went himself to direct their operations, but he fell ill of
fatigue. Fortunately his illness was not of long continuance, and in the
month of December he was perfectly recovered. At this period an English
expedition went from Senegal into the interior of Africa, commanded by
Major Peddie,[8] the gentleman who had given so great assistance to the
unfortunates of the Medusa. That worthy philanthropic Englishman died
soon after his departure; we sincerely lamented him.
[Footnote 8: Vide Note B.]
On the 1st of January 1817, the colony of Senegal was surrendered to the
French. The English left it, some for Great Britain, others for Sierra
Leone and the Cape of Good Hope; and France entered into all her
possessions on the west coast of Africa. We remained yet a month in our
first house; at last we procured one much larger. My father then
commenced his functions of attorney, and we at last began to receive
provisions from the French government. The house in which we lived was
very large; but the employment which my father followed was very
incompatible with the tranquillity we desired. To remove us from the
noise and tumultuous conversations of the people who perpetually came to
the office, we had a small hut of reeds constructed for us in the midst
of our garden, which was very large. Here my sister, my cousin, and
myself, passed the greater part of the day. From that time we began to
see a little of the world, and to return unavoidable visits. Every
Sunday the family went to the island of Safal, where we very agreeably
spent the day; for that day seemed as short in the country, as the six
other days of the week were long and listless at Senegal. That country
was so little calculated for people of our age, that we continually
teazed our father to return with us to France. But as he had great
expectations from the manufacture of potass, he made us stay, as we
would be of great service to him in the end, for superintending the
works of that manufacture.
It is now time to give a brief description of Senegal and its environs,
to enable the reader better to appreciate that which I have to say in
the sequel.
Travellers who have written about Africa, have given too magnificent a
picture of that country known by the name of Senegal. Apparently, after
the fatigues of a long and tedious journey, they have been charmed with
the first fresh spot where they could repose. That first impression has
all the force of reality to the superficial observer; but if he remain
any time, the illusion vanishes, and Senegal appears what it really
is--a parched and barren country, destitute of the most necessary
vegetables for the nourishment and preservation of the health of man.
The town of St Louis, which is also called Senegal, because it is the
head-quarters of the French establishments on that coast, is built upon
a small island or a bank of sand, formed in the midst of the river
Senegal, at about two leagues from its mouth. It is two thousand toises
in length, and three hundred in breadth. The native inhabitants of the
country call it Ndar, and Ba-Fing, or Black River, the river which
waters it. The last name corresponds to that of Niger, which ancient
geographers have given to that river.
The population of St Louis is about ten thousand souls, five hundred of
whom are Europeans, two thousand negroes or free mulattoes, and nearly
seven thousand five hundred slaves. There are about one hundred and
fifty houses in St Louis inhabited by Europeans; the remainder consists
of simple squares, or huts of straw, which a slight flame would cause to
vanish in a moment, as well as all the houses of brick which are near
them. The streets are spacious, but not paved. The greater part are so
completely filled with sand, which the winds and hurricanes bring from
the deserts of Sahara, that it is nearly impossible to walk along them
when the winds are blowing. That fine and burning sand so impregnates
the air, that it is inhaled, and swallowed with the food; in short, it
penetrates every thing. The narrow and little frequented streets are
often blocked up. Some of the houses are fine enough; they have but one
story. Some have covered galleries; but in general the roofs are in the
Oriental fashion, in the form of a terrace.
The gardens of Senegal, though their plants have been much praised, are
nevertheless few in number, and in very bad condition. The whole of
their cultivation is limited to some bad cabbages, devoured by the
insects, a plot of bitter radishes, and two or three beds of salad,
withered before it is fit for use; but these vegetables, it must be
said, are very exquisite, because there are none better. The governor's
garden, however, is stocked with various plants, such as cucumbers,
melons, carrots, Indian pinks, some plants of barren ananas, and some
marigolds. There are also in the garden three date trees, a small vine
arbour, and some young American and Indian plants. But these do not
thrive, as much on account of the poverty of the soil, as the hot winds
of the Desert, which wither them. Some, nevertheless, are vigorous, from
being sheltered by walls, and frequently watered.
Five or six trees, somewhat bushy (island fig-trees), are planted here
and there in the streets, where may be seen also four or five baobabs,
the leaves of which are devoured by the negroes before they are fully
blown,[9] and a palm of the species of Ronn, which serves as a
signal-post for ships at sea.
[Footnote 9: The negroes use the leaves of the Baobab as gluten,
prepare their Kouskou, (a kind of pulp).]
A league and a half from the island of St Louis, is situated the island
of Babaguey. It is almost entirely cultivated, but the soil is so arid
that it will scarcely grow any thing but cotton. There is a military
station on this island, and a signal-post. MM. Artigue and Gansfort each
have a small dwelling here. The house, built in the European manner,
which is there seen, serves to hold the soldiers, and to accommodate the
officers of Senegal on their parties of pleasure.
The island of Safal is situated to the east of Babaguey, and is
separated from it by an arm of the river. This was the asylum which we
chose in the end to withdraw from misery, as will be seen in the sequel.
To the east of the island of Safal, is situated the large island of
Bokos, the fertility of which is very superior to the three preceding.
Here are seen large fields of millet, maize, cotton, and indigo, of the
best quality. The negroes have established large villages here, the
inhabitants of which live in happy ease.
To the north of these islands, and to the east of Senegal, is the island
of Sor, where resides a kind of Black Prince, called by the French Jean
Bart. The general aspect of this island is arid, but there are places
susceptible of being made into large plantations. M. Valentin, merchant
at St Louis, has already planted several thousand feet of cotton, which
is in a thriving condition. But that island being very much exposed to
the incursions of the Moors of the Desert, it would perhaps be
imprudent to live in it.
A multitude of other islands, formed by the encroachments of the river
upon the mainland, border on those of which I have already spoken,
several leagues distant to the north and east. They are principally
covered with marshes, which it would be difficult to drain. In these
islands grows the patriarch of vegetables described by the celebrated
Adanson, under the name of Baobab,[10] the circumference of which is
often found to be above one hundred feet.
[Footnote 10: Vide Note C.]
Several other islands, more or less extended than the preceding, rise
above the river near to St Louis, as far as Podor; the greater part of
which are not inhabited, although their soil is as fertile as those near
Senegal. This indifference of the negroes in cultivating these islands,
is explained by the influence which the Moors of the Desert of Sahara
are permitted to have over all the country bordering upon Senegal, the
inhabitants of which they carry off to sell to the slave merchants of
the island of St Louis. It is not to be doubted, that the abolition of
the slave trade, and the acquisition which the French have made in the
country of Dagama, will soon destroy the preponderance of the barbarians
of the Desert upon the banks of the Senegal; and that things being
placed on their former footing, the negroes established in the French
colonies will be permitted to enjoy in peace the fields which they have
planted.
Among all the islands, Tolde, which is about two leagues in
circumference, seems to be the most convenient for a military and
agricultural station. The fertility of its soil, and its being situated
between the two principal points where the gum trade is carried on,
gives it the triple advantage of being able to maintain the garrison
which is placed upon it, of protecting the trade and navigation of the
river, and of preventing the Moors from driving away the negroes from
their peaceful habitations. Plantations have already been made in the
island of Tolde, of coffee, sugar-canes, indigo, and cotton, which have
perfectly succeeded. M. Richard, agricultural botanist to the
government, has placed there a general nursery for the French
establishments. Three leagues from the island of Tolde, farther up the
river, is the village of Dagama, situated upon the left bank of the
river, and at the extremity of the kingdom of Brak, or of Walo. In that
village, the French have already planted several batteries, where begin
their agricultural establishments, which end about six leagues from the
island of St Louis. A large portion of that ground has been given to the
French planters, who have planted cotton upon it of the best kind, which
promises to be a branch of lucrative commerce to France. Here is placed
the plantation of M. Boucaline, as being the largest and best
cultivated, the king having given him a premium of encouragement of
10,000 franks. A little distant from the plantation of Boucaline are the
grounds of the royal grant, covered with more than ten thousand feet of
cotton. This beautiful plantation, established by the care of M. Roger,
now governor of Senegal, is at present directed by M. Rougemont with a
zeal above all praise.
Near to the village of Dagama, up the river, is the island of Morfil,
which is not less than fifty leagues from east to west, and about eight
or ten in breadth. The negroes of the republic of Peules cultivate great
quantities of millet, maize, indigo, cotton, and tobacco. The country of
the Peules negroes extends about one hundred and twenty leagues, by
thirty in breadth. It is a portion of the ancient empire of the negro
Wolofs, which, in former times, comprehended all the countries situated
between the rivers Senegal and Gambia. The country of the Peules is
watered by a branch of the Senegal, which they call Morfil; and, like
Lower Egypt, owes its extreme fertility to its annual overflowing. The
surprising abundance of their harvests, which are twice a year, makes it
considered as the granary of Senegal. Here are to be seen immense fields
finely cultivated, extensive forests producing the rarest and finest
kinds of trees, and a prodigious diversity of plants and shrubs fit for
dying and medicine.
To the east of the Peules is the country of Galam,[11] or Kayaga,
situated two hundred leagues from the island of St Louis. The French
have an establishment in the village of Baquel. This country, from its
being a little elevated, enjoys at all times a temperature sufficiently
cool and healthful. Its soil is considered susceptible of every species
of cultivation: the mines of gold and silver, which border upon it,
promise one day to rival the richest in the possession of Spain in the
New World. This conjecture is sufficiently justified by the reports sent
to Europe by the agents of the African and Indian Companies, and
particularly by M. de Buffon, who, in a MS. deposited in the archives
of the colonies, thus expresses himself:--"It is certain that there are
found in the sand of the rivers (in the country of Galam) various
precious stones, such as rubies, topazes, sapphires, and perhaps some
diamonds; and there are in the mountains veins of gold and silver." Two
productions, not less estimable perhaps than gold and silver, are
indigenous to this fine country, and increase in the most prodigious
manner there; viz. the Lotus, or bread-tree, of the ancients, spoken of
by Pliny, and the Shea, or butter-tree,[12] of which the English
traveller Mungo Park has given a description.
[Footnote 11: Vide Note D.]
[Footnote 12: Vide Note E.]