THE SHIPWRECKED PARTY FORM THEMSELVES INTO A CARAVAN TO GO BY
LAND TO SENEGAL--THEY FIND WATER IN THE DESERT--SOME PEOPLE OF
THE CARAVAN PROPOSE TO ABANDON THE PICARD FAMILY--GENEROUS
CONDUCT OF AN OLD OFFICER OF INFANTRY--DISCOVERY OF AN OASIS OF
WILD PURSLAIN--FIRST REPAST OF THE CARAVAN IN THE DESERT--THEY
FALL IN WITH A SMALL CAMP OF ARABS--M. PICARD PURCHASES TWO
KIDS--THE MOORS OFFER THEIR SERVICES TO THEM--ARRIVAL AT LAST AT
THE GREAT CAMP OF THE MOORS--M. PICARD IS RECOGNISED BY AN
ARAB--GENEROUS PROCEEDING OF THAT ARAB--SUDDEN DEPARTURE OF THE
CARAVAN--THEY HIRE ASSES.
After we had a little recovered from the fainting and fatigue of our
getting on shore, our fellow-sufferers told us they had landed in the
forenoon, and had cleared the breakers by the strength of their oars and
sails; but they had not all been so lucky as we were. One unfortunate
person, too desirous of getting quickly on shore, had his legs broken
under the Shallop, and was taken and laid on the beach, and left to the
care of Providence. M. Espiau, commander of the shallop, reproached us
for having doubted him when he wished to board us to take our family
along with him. It was most true he had landed sixty-three people that
day. A short while after our refusal, he took the passengers of the
yawl, who would infallibly have perished in the stormy night of the 6th
and 7th. The boat named the Senegal, commanded by M. Maudet, had made
the shore at the same time with M. Espiau. The boats of MM. Schmaltz and
Lachaumareys were the only ones which continued the route for Senegal,
whilst nine-tenths of the Frenchmen intrusted to these gentlemen were
butchering each other on the raft, or dying of hunger on the burning
sands of Sahara.
About seven in the morning, a caravan was formed to penetrate into the
interior, for the purpose of finding some fresh water. We did
accordingly find some at a little distance from the sea, by digging
among the sand. Every one instantly flocked round the little wells,
which furnished enough to quench our thirst. This brackish water was
found to be delicious, although it had a sulphurous taste: its colour
was that of whey. As all our clothes were wet and in tatters, and as we
had nothing to change them, some generous officers offered theirs. My
step-mother, my cousin, and my sister, were dressed in them; for myself,
I preferred keeping my own. We remained nearly an hour beside our
beneficent fountain then took the route for Senegal; that is, a
southerly direction, for we did not know exactly where that country lay.
It was agreed that the females and children should walk before the
caravan, that they might not be left behind. The sailors voluntarily
carried the youngest on their shoulders, and every one took the route
along the coast. Notwithstanding it was nearly seven o'clock, the sand
was quite burning, and we suffered severely, walking without shoes,
having lost them whilst landing. As soon as we arrived on the shore, we
went to walk on the wet sand, to cool us a little. Thus we travelled
during all the night, without encountering any thing but shells, which
wounded our feet.
On the morning of the 9th, we saw an antelope on the top of a little
hill, which instantly disappeared, before we had time to shoot it. The
Desert seemed to our view one immense plain of sand, on which was seen
not one blade of verdure. However, we still found water by digging in
the sand. In the forenoon, two officers of marine complained that our
family incommoded the progress of the caravan. It is true, the females
and the children could not walk so quickly as the men. We walked as fast
as it was possible for us, nevertheless, we often fell behind, which
obliged them to halt till we came up. These officers, joined with other
individuals, considered among themselves whether they would wait for us,
or abandon us in the Desert. I will be bold to say, however, that but
few were of the latter opinion. My father being informed of what was
plotting against us, stepped up to the chiefs of the conspiracy, and
reproached them in the bitterest terms for their selfishness and
brutality. The dispute waxed hot. Those who were desirous of leaving us
drew their swords, and my father put his hand upon a poignard, with
which he had provided himself on quitting the frigate. At this scene,
we threw ourselves in between them, conjuring him rather to remain in
the Desert with his family, than seek the assistance of those who were,
perhaps, less humane than the Moors themselves. Several people took our
part, particularly M. Begnere, captain of infantry, who quieted the
dispute by saying to his soldiers. "My friends, you are Frenchmen, and I
have the honour of being your commander; let us never abandon an
unfortunate family in the Desert, so long as we are able to be of use to
them." This brief, but energetic speech, caused those to blush who
wished to leave us. All then joined with the old captain, saying they
would not leave us on condition we would walk quicker. M. Begnere and
his soldiers replied, they did not wish to impose conditions on those to
whom they were desirous of doing a favour; and the unfortunate family of
Picard were again on the road with the whole caravan. Some time after
this dispute, M. Rogery, member of the Philanthropic Society of Cape
Verd, secretly left the caravan, striking into the middle of the Desert,
without knowing very well what he sought. He wished perhaps to explore
the ancient country of the Numidians and Getulians, and to give himself
a slave to the great Emperor of Morocco. What would it avail to acquire
such celebrity? That intrepid traveller had not time to find that after
which he searched; for a few days after he was captured by the Moors,
and taken to Senegal, where the governor paid his ransom.
About noon hunger was felt so powerfully among us, that it was agreed
upon to go to the small hills of sand which were near the coast, to see
if any herbs could be found fit for eating; but we only got poisonous
plants, among which were various kinds of euphorbium. Convolvuluses of a
bright green carpeted the downs; but on tasting their leaves we found
them as bitter as gall. The caravan rested in this place, whilst several
officers went farther into the interior. They came back in about an
hour, loaded with wild purslain, which they distributed to each of us.
Every one instantly devoured his bunch of herbage, without leaving the
smallest branch; but as our hunger was far from being satisfied with
this small allowance, the soldiers and sailors betook themselves to look
for more. They soon brought back a sufficient quantity, which was
equally distributed, and devoured upon the spot, so delicious had hunger
made that food to us. For myself, I declare I never eat any thing with
so much appetite in all my life. Water was also found in this place, but
it was of an abominable taste. After this truly frugal repast, we
continued our route. The heat was insupportable in the last degree. The
sands on which we trode were burning, nevertheless several of us walked
on these scorching coals without shoes; and the females had nothing but
their hair for a cap. When we reached the sea-shore, we all ran and lay
down among the waves. After remaining there some time, we took our route
along the wet beach. On our journey we met with several large crabs,
which were of considerable service to us. Every now and then we
endeavoured to slake our thirst by sucking their crooked claws. About
nine at night we halted between two pretty high sand hills. After a
short talk concerning our misfortunes, all seemed desirous of passing
the night in this place, notwithstanding we heard on every side the
roaring of leopards. We deliberated on the means of securing ourselves,
but sleep soon put an end to our fears. Scarcely had we slumbered a few
hours when a horrible roaring of wild beasts awoke us, and made us stand
on our defence. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and in spite of my
fears and the horrible aspect of the place, nature never appeared so
sublime to me before. Instantly something was announced that resembled a
lion. This information was listened to with the greatest emotion. Every
one being desirous of verifying the truth, fixed upon something he
thought to be the object; one believed he saw the long teeth of the king
of the forest; another was convinced his mouth was already open to
devour us; several, armed with muskets, aimed at the animal, and
advancing a few steps, discovered the pretended lion to be nothing more
than a shrub fluctuating in the breeze. However, the howlings of
ferocious beasts had so frightened us, being yet heard at intervals,
that we again sought the sea-shore, on purpose to continue our route
towards the south.
Our situation had been thus perilous during the night; nevertheless at
break of day we had the satisfaction of finding none amissing. About
sunrise we held a little to the east to get farther into the interior to
find fresh water, and lost much time in a vain search. The country which
we now traversed was a little less arid than that which we had passed
the preceding day. The hills, the valleys, and a vast plain of sand,
were strewed with Mimosa or sensitive plants, presenting to our sight a
scene we had never before seen in the Desert. The country is bounded as
it were by a chain of mountains, or high downs of sand, in the direction
of north and south, without the slightest trace of cultivation.
Towards ten in the morning some of our companions were desirous of
making observations in the interior, and they did not go in vain. They
instantly returned, and told us they had seen two Arab tents upon a
slight rising ground. We instantly directed our steps thither. We had to
pass great downs of sand very slippery, and arrived in a large plain,
streaked here and there with verdure; but the turf was so hard and
piercing, we could scarcely walk over it without wounding our feet. Our
presence in these frightful solitudes put to flight three or four
Moorish shepherds, who herded a small flock of sheep and goats in an
oasis.[5] At last we arrived at the tents after which we were searching,
and found in them three Mooresses and two little children, who did not
seem in the least frightened by our visit. A negro servant, belonging to
an officer of marine, interpreted between us; and the good women, who,
when they had heard of our misfortunes, offered us millet and water for
payment. We bought a little of that grain at the rate of thirty pence a
handful; the water was got for three francs a glass; it was very good,
and none grudged the money it cost. As a glass of water, with a handful
of millet, was but a poor dinner for famished people, my father bought
two kids, which they would not give him under twenty piasters. We
immediately killed them, and our Mooresses boiled them in a large
kettle. Whilst our repast was preparing, my father, who could not afford
the whole of the expense, got others to contribute to it; but an old
officer of marine, who was to have been captain of the port of Senegal,
was the only person who refused, notwithstanding he had about him nearly
three thousand francs, which he boasted of in the end. Several soldiers
and sailors had seen him count it in round pieces of gold, on coming
ashore on the Desert, and reproached him for his sordid avarice; but he
seemed insensible to their reproaches, nor eat the less of his portion
of kid with his companions in misfortune.
[Footnote 5: Oasis, a fertile tract of land situated among sand.
T.]
When about to resume our journey, we saw several Moors approaching to us
armed with lances. Our people instantly seized their arms, and put
themselves in readiness to defend us in case of an attack. Two officers,
followed by several soldiers and sailors, with our interpreter, advanced
to discover their intentions. They instantly returned with the Moors,
who said, that far from wishing to do us harm, they had come to offer us
their assistance, and to conduct us to Senegal. This offer being
accepted of with gratitude by all of us, the Moors, of whom we had been
so afraid, became our protectors and friends, verifying the old proverb,
_there are good people every where_! As the camp of the Moors was at
some considerable distance from where we were, we set off altogether to
reach it before night. After having walked about two leagues through the
burning sands, we found ourselves again upon the shore. Towards night,
our conductors made us strike again into the interior, saying we were
very near their camp, which is called in their language Berkelet. But
the short distance of the Moors was found very long by the females and
the children, on account of the downs of sand which we had to ascend and
descend every instant, also of prickly shrubs over which we were
frequently obliged to walk. Those who were barefooted, felt most
severely at this time the want of their shoes. I myself lost among the
bushes various shreds of my dress, and my feet and legs were all
streaming with blood. At length, after two long hours of walking and
suffering, we arrived at the camp of that tribe to which belonged our
Arab conductors. We had scarcely got into the camp, when the dogs, the
children, and the Moorish women, began to annoy us. Some of them threw
sand in our eyes, others amused themselves by snatching at our hair, on
pretence of wishing to examine it. This pinched us, that spit upon us;
the dogs bit our legs, whilst the old harpies cut the buttons from the
officers coats, or endeavoured to take away the lace. Our conductors,
however, had pity on us, and chased away the dogs and the curious crowd,
who had already made us suffer as much as the thorns which had torn our
feet. The chiefs of the camp, our guides, and some good women, at last
set about getting us some supper. Water in abundance was given us
without payment, and they sold us fish dried in the sun, and some
bowlfuls of sour milk, all at a reasonable price.
We found a Moor in the camp who had previously known my father at
Senegal, and who spoke a little French. As soon as he recognised him, he
cried, "Tiens toi, Picard! ni a pas connaitre moi Amet?" Hark ye,
Picard, know you not Amet? We were all struck with astonishment at
these French words coming from the mouth of a Moor. My father
recollected having employed long ago a young goldsmith at Senegal, and
discovering the Moor Amet to be the same person, shook him by the hand.
After that good fellow had been made acquainted with our shipwreck, and
to what extremities our unfortunate family had been reduced, he could
not refrain from tears; and this perhaps was the first time a Musulman
had ever wept over the misfortunes of a Christian. Amet was not
satisfied with deploring our hard fate; he was desirous of proving that
he was generous and humane, and instantly distributed among us a large
quantity of milk and water free of any charge. He also raised for our
family a large tent of the skins of camels, cattle and sheep, because
his religion would not allow him to lodge with Christians under the same
roof. The place appeared very dark, and the obscurity made us uneasy.
Amet and our conductors lighted a large fire to quiet us; and at last,
bidding us good night, and retiring to his tent, said, "Sleep in peace;
the God of the Christians is also the God of the Musulmen."
We had resolved to quit this truly hospitable place early in the
morning; but during the night, some people who had probably too much
money, imagined the Moors had taken us to their camp to plunder us. They
communicated their fears to others, and pretending that the Moors, who
walked up and down among their flocks, and cried from time to time, to
keep away the ferocious beasts, had already given the signal for
pursuing and murdering us. Instantly a general panic seized all our
people, and they wished to set off forthwith. My father, although he
well knew the perfidy of the inhabitants of the Desert, endeavoured to
assure them we had nothing to fear, because the Arabs were too
frightened for the people of Senegal, who would not fail to avenge us if
we were insulted; but nothing could quiet their apprehensions, and we
had to take the route during the middle of the night. The Moors being
soon acquainted with our fears, made us all kinds of protestations; and
seeing we persisted in quitting the camp, offered us asses to carry us
as far as the Senegal. These beasts of burden were hired at the rate of
12 francs a day, for each head, and we took our departure under the
guidance of those Moors who had before conducted us to the camp. Amet's
wife being unwell, he could not accompany us, but recommended us
strongly to our guides. My father was able to hire only two asses for
the whole of our family; and as it was numerous, my sister Caroline, my
cousin, and myself, were obliged to crawl along, whilst my unfortunate
father followed in the suite of the caravan, which in truth went much
quicker than we did.
A short distance from the camp, the brave and compassionate Captain
Begnere, seeing we still walked, obliged us to accept of the ass he had
hired for himself, saying he would not ride when young ladies, exhausted
with fatigue, followed on foot. The King afterwards honourably
recompensed this worthy officer, who ceased not to regard our
unfortunate family with a care and attention I will never forget.
During the remainder of the night, we travelled in a manner sufficiently
agreeable, mounting alternately the ass of Captain Begnere.