_THE GOVERNMENT OF BUENOS AYRES_,
Which is bounded on the north by the government of St. Paul, in Brazil;
on the north-west by the river Parana, which divides it from Paraguay;
on the west by the plains of Tucuman; on the east by the Portuguese
frontier, which passes south through lake Mini; on the south-west, by
the Atlantic Ocean, and the line of demarcation between it and the
independent tribes; on the south-east by Cuyo, and on the south, by an
imaginary line, passing through the Pampas or Patagonia.
_History, &c._--The history of this government is that of the
viceroyalty; the most extraordinary part of it being that which relates
to the subjugation of the Indians by the Jesuits, who established their
principal stations in the country, embraced by the Parana on the north,
the Uruguay on the east; and the La Plata on the west and south.
The road for these missionaries was prepared by Alvar Nuñez de Vaca,
in 1541, who conquered the country, and named it Vera. Two monks of
the order of St. Francis accompanied the governor in his expedition,
and laboured very hard to convert the natives, which they succeeded so
well in, that others of the same order were soon established in the
country, in which they erected chapels and villages. Of these monks,
Father Luis de Bolaños was the most zealous; he stayed fifty years
among the Guaranies, and made himself master of their language; at
last, bent down with age and fatigue, he went to welcome the arrival of
some Jesuit brothers, who came to assist him in his labours; these were
with difficulty admitted into the country, owing to the aversion of
the natives to have any other pastor than the venerable Bolaños. From
this time the Jesuits laboured so effectually to convert the Indians,
that in a very short period, the greater part of the country was in
their power; they extended their dominion over Paraguay, and organized
the Indians into a well disciplined body of militia, by which means
they kept all persons, whether Spaniards or Portuguese, out of their
territories.
From Paraguay and Parana, they drew such great revenues, by making
their converts work at stated periods in the plantations, &c., that
they were enabled not only to supply every thing necessary for the
comfort of the people from Europe, but were also enabled to send
immense sums to the superiors of their order. The Indians were
studiously kept in ignorance of the Spanish language; they were
instructed in all sorts of useful arts, and sedulously trained to the
fatigues of a military life, being formed into large bodies of cavalry
and infantry, and well supplied with arms and ammunition.
Some hundred thousand of Americans were already under the power, and
infatuated in their subjection to these fathers, when in 1750, the
courts of Madrid and Lisbon, entered into a treaty for the purpose of
definitively fixing the boundaries of their respective possessions in
the western world.
Commissions were appointed in 1752, to carry this treaty into
execution, when on account of the representation of the Jesuits, who
were unwilling to allow the new Portuguese limits, a war ensued between
the two countries, and the Indians taking an active part against the
Portuguese, the court of Lisbon began to entertain suspicions of the
real motive of the Jesuits, in forming such extensive governments in
America.
From this time, their influence in Europe began to decrease; a trial
was instituted against one of the order in France, by some of the
merchants concerned in speculations at Martinique which had involved
the society in debt; on this trial, their constitution and books were
examined, and found to contain matter so dangerous to the interests of
the kingdom, that it was declared necessary to suppress their order
in France, and in the year following, the king of Portugal being
assassinated, it was resolved to expel the Jesuits from that kingdom.
This was followed by their expulsion from Spain and Naples, in 1767,
and in 1773 Pope Clement XIV. totally abolished the society.
They were exiled from America soon after, and the care of the nations
they had converted was given to priests of other orders, but chiefly
to the Franciscans, and their government placed in the hands of civil
officers, in the same manner as in other parts of America.
On their expulsion from the territories on the banks of the Parana
there were discovered in thirty settlements alone, no less than 769,590
horses, 13,900 mules, and 271,540 sheep.
_Climate, Features, &c._--The climate of Buenos Ayres is variable
according to the situation of the districts on the great Pampas or
plains, the heat in summer being scorching, whilst at Buenos Ayres, and
in the mountains of Parana or Guayra, the winter is cold.
Nearly the whole of the southern, western, and some of the northern
parts of this government consist of wide spread plains, on which
immense herds of cattle are fed; the road from the capital to Cuyo
lying over one of these levels, called the _Pampas_, which are of
an extent that would equal the size of a great European kingdom. On
this plain the cattle range unowned and unvalued, being only hunted
down occasionally for the sake of their hides and tallow; wild horses
also abound in these deserts, and wander about in such troops that
travellers are surrounded by them for three weeks together; sometimes
they are observed in innumerable quantities passing over the road at
full speed for hours at a time, and on these occasions it requires
great exertion to prevent being trampled down by them; but the same
road is often travelled without one of these creatures being seen.
The plains also abound in cassowaries, partridges, geese, ducks, deer
and other game, and are uninhabited by man.
No stages are fixed upon the route to Chili, as it is impossible
in parts of it which are covered with sands to preserve a regular
tract, and it is also infested with the predatory incursions of the
surrounding Indians, the method of travelling is therefore in covered
carts, made as commodious as possible, drawn by oxen, and accompanied
with horses and mules to carry the baggage and goods; merchants and
others performing this journey, set out in companies, and generally in
the evening two hours before sun-set, travelling all night till an hour
after sun-rise in the morning, after which they rest during the heat of
the day, to partake of the provisions they bring with them, or the game
they procure on the journey.
In this course their whole dependence is on the compass, which
guides them across the vast steppe, and the travelers are exposed to
the dangers of being murdered by the Indians, of sinking under the
scorching noon-day heat, or of dying for want of water, of which none
is to be had, but by mere chance, besides what they carry with them in
skins.
The rains which fall in this plain are of short continuance but in
great quantity, and when these happen, the conductors never fail to
replenish their water bags; but from these rains the caravan becomes
drenched through, and not unfrequently the goods and property of the
passengers are spoilt.
The westerly winds or pamperos are another source of inquietude to the
persons undertaking this fatiguing journey; they sometimes blow with
such violence that it becomes utterly impossible to proceed, as the
carriages would inevitably be overturned.
In this government the mountainous parts are chiefly those situated to
the north-west of the river Uruguay, and which border on the Portuguese
frontiers; they are little known, and are inhabited only by tribes of
savage and warlike Indians, who set the missionaries at defiance.
The rivers of Buenos Ayres are the great _La Plata_ already described,
the _Parana_, the _Uruguay_, and many others of less note, but
generally very large.
The _Parana_ rises in the province of Minas Geraes to the south of the
city of Joas del Rey, in Brazil, in some lofty mountains, and runs
from north-east to west for 300 leagues, when it joins the Paraguay,
receiving in its course innumerable streams; at the distance of 125
leagues from its mouth it has two falls of a tremendous nature, which
render it necessary for the boats that navigate it to be carried a
short distance over-land. The Parana is a considerable river before
it enters the Spanish territories, and after passing the frontiers
of Brazil in about 24° 40' it flows in a south-west course through
the colonies of the Jesuits, in a country of incomparable fertility
and of a delightful aspect. It seldom overflows its banks, owing to
the breadth and depth of its channel, and it is much more rapid than
the Paraguay as it flows from higher ground: at its junction with
the Paraguay it is nearly two miles broad, and incloses innumerable
islands, which are overflowed in the annual inundations; but it is not
navigable in its whole extent, on account of the two falls and several
rapids.
This river was always supposed (and is still conjectured by some
geographers) to be the main stream of the great La Plata.
The third great river of Buenos Ayres is the _Uruguay_, which rises
about the 28° of south latitude, in the Portuguese province of Rio
Grande, among the chain of mountains that run along the coast of the
Atlantic. Its course is at first to the west, along a high valley,
which is separated from the Parana by an elevated ridge, and it
receives so many smaller streams that at eighty miles from its sources
it is a large river. The great declivity of the ground over which it
has passed gives it so much strength, that after emerging from the
mountains it overflows the plain to such an extent, that it requires
half an hour's time to cross it in a ten-oared boat, though the current
is not very strong. After leaving the mountains at the distance of
690 miles from its mouth it flows through a desert country for a
considerable length, and then turning to the south it receives an
increase from numberless streams, and enters the La Plata, in the 34°
of south latitude.
The banks of the Uruguay are romantic and fertile, after it quits the
desert and turns southerly: but it is generally a rapid stream, though
navigable for vessels two hundred miles from the La Plata; beyond this
it can only be ascended by canoes or rafts, as it is interrupted by
frequent falls and rapids.
On the southern confines of Buenos Ayres, the plains are drained by the
_Saladillo_, the _Hueyque Leuva_ or _Colorado_, and the _Desaguadero_
which descend from the Andes of Cuyo: but of these rivers very little
is known.
The chief town of this government is _Buenos Ayres_, which, being the
metropolis of the viceroyalty, has been already described.
_Monte Video_ is the next city of note in this province; it is situated
on the north side of the La Plata, in a small bay twenty leagues west
of Cape Santa Maria, in 34° 54' 48" south latitude, and 56° 14' 30"
west longitude, and has its name from a mountain that overlooks the
place, and on which is a light-house that has a good view to leeward.
Monte Video is a very recent town, and was erected on account of its
harbour being one of the best on the coast.
It stands on a gentle elevation at the end of a small peninsula, and is
completely enclosed with fortifications. The harbour, which is the best
in the La Plata, is shoal, and exposed to the north-east winds.
This city is tolerably well built, the houses being generally of one
story. The great square contains the cathedral, which is a handsome
edifice, the town-house, and the public prison: but the streets are
unpaved, and consequently either always dusty or muddy, and the
inhabitants experience great inconvenience from the want of water, the
spring which furnishes the place being two miles distant.
Its climate is moist; in summer the heat is very great, and the sky is
frequently overcast by dreadful storms of thunder, lightning and heavy
rain: but the winter is cold, and the air, during the months of June,
July and August, keen and piercing.
The vicinity of this city presents an agreeable landscape of hill and
valley, interspersed with small rivers; but it wants trees, and so
scarce, indeed, is wood, that almost all the houses of Monte-Video are
floored with brick. The inhabitants do not attend to the cultivation
of the fertile country that surrounds them, their principal property
consisting in the numerous herds which feed in the plains towards the
Portuguese frontier.
The population of this city is between 15,000 and 20,000 souls,
consisting of Spaniards, creoles and slaves.
Its commerce consists in exporting hides, tallow and salted beef;
the hides and tallow being sent to Europe, and the salt beef to the
Havannah and the West Indies.
Monte-Video was taken by the British in their expedition against Buenos
Ayres, and was delivered up by treaty to its ancient masters; since
which time it has declared its adherence to the cause of the mother
country, and its citizens have had several conflicts with the insurgent
government of Buenos Ayres. At present it is garrisoned and held by the
Portuguese.
_Santa Fé_ is the third city of Buenos Ayres; it is seated at the
confluence of the Salado with the La Plata, about ninety leagues
north-west of the metropolis. It is of a square form, surrounded with a
wall, and tolerably fortified, to preserve it from the attacks of the
Indians, who have pillaged it several times, always massacreing the
inhabitants. It contains a church and convent. The environs abound in
game, and the soil being fertile produces corn, wine and fruits. It is
the channel through which the Paraguay tea is sent to Peru, and is, on
that account, of considerable importance.
_Maldonado_ ranks as the fourth town of this government. It is situated
on the same shore of the La Plata as Monte-Video, in 34° 50' south
latitude, and 55° 36' west longitude, 100 miles west of Buenos Ayres,
and nine leagues west of Cape Santa Maria, at the entrance of the
river, and is a small place, chiefly noted as having a harbour, in
which vessels trading to Buenos Ayres sometimes refit.
_Las Corrientes_, near the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay, on
the east bank of the La Plata, 100 leagues north of Santa Fé and 250
of Buenos Ayres, is a small town well situated for the trade between
Paraguay, Peru and Buenos Ayres. It contains a church, three convents,
and a small population, who are formed into a militia, to defend the
place against the Indians. This city is in 27° 32' south latitude, and
57° 50' west longitude. The trade carried on from this place with the
capital is by means of the river, in fine tobacco, sugar, yellow wax,
Paraguay tea, cotton, cloth and thread.
_Colonia del Sacramento_, in 34° 22' south latitude, and 57° 52' west
longitude, was formerly a place of some importance, as, the small tract
of country surrounding it, which is thirty-three miles north-east
of Buenos Ayres on the opposite bank of the La Plata, having been
colonized by the Portuguese, in 1678, they built a city on it. It was
taken from them in 1684, they however recovered it, but were again
driven out in 1704, and it was not restored till the peace. In 1706, it
was besieged a third time by the Spaniards, with 800 troops and 1500
Indians by land, and with four vessels by sea, but they could make
no impression, so strongly was it fortified. It was however taken in
1762, but restored at the subsequent peace; the Spaniards still viewing
it with a jealous eye, took it for the last time in 1777, when they
destroyed the city and fortifications. Its only importance, at present,
consists in its having a tolerable harbour or bay, formed by the river,
and it is said, that the Portuguese have again recently occupied it.
The above are the principal towns of this extended government, which
contains many others, most of them are however either missionary or
military stations; the former abounding on the banks of the Parana and
Uraguay, while the latter are chiefly on the north-west, towards the
Llanos de Manso and Tucuman, and on the east towards the Portuguese
frontier.
The provinces of this government have not been enumerated, they are
little known, and many of them are only divisions of the missions, such
as _Guarania_, which extends along the south shores of the Parana,
and contains about thirty villages of the Guaranis Indians. On the
south-east of Buenos Ayres, the country is named _Tuyu_; it however
contains no Spanish settlements of any importance, and seems to be a
tract crossed by a chain of mountains, which divide it from the coast
of the Atlantic; much has been written concerning the _Abipons_, who
occupy the north-west corner of this government; they appear to be
a tribe consisting of about 5000 souls, who are of a very warlike
disposition, frequently disturbing the settlements. Their language
is distinct from that of the neighbouring nations, and they exist by
the chase, preferring the flesh of the jaguar or American tiger to
any other animal, and retire to the islands and high trees, when the
annual inundations commence in their country. The _Patagonians_ on the
southern frontier have also excited much curiosity; but it seems to
be proved beyond a doubt, that they are merely a race of Indians of a
stature rather above the middling size, and that they do not differ in
their general habits from their neighbours.
The limits of this work will not permit any farther description of
the Indian nations who inhabit and surround Buenos Ayres. Of many of
them, the Spanish settlers know nothing more than the names, and of the
rest, it is observed, that the more the settlements spread, the less
the Aborigines are seen, and the thinner their numbers become; most
probably owing to the new diseases they acquire, and the more wandering
and uncertain life they are obliged to lead; not so the Indians
who settle in the missions, their life becoming one of peace and
tranquillity, their wants being supplied by their own labour, and not
being constantly exposed to the burning sun or chilling rains of the
southern regions, their numbers continually increase; and though the
Spaniards formerly used very harsh methods, to convert them either to
their faith or their profit, it cannot be denied, that they have within
the last century, wiped that blot from the historic page, and with a
few exceptions, have conduced very materially to the welfare of a race,
remarkable for their general inaptitude and unwillingness to assist in
bettering their own condition.
Having therefore detailed every subject concerning the extensive
governments of the viceroyalty of La Plata, which has been deemed
interesting or novel, with the exception only of particular
descriptions of the animals which are peculiar to it, and to the other
southern regions of America, it now remains for us, only to treat of
the last great political division of the Spanish colonies in that
country, and in so doing, we shall give a more extended account of some
of the most singular zoological objects; as they are equally common to
the territory about to be treated of, as to Buenos Ayres.
The kingdom of Chili will therefore now engage our attention.