HISTORY, DISCOVERY, &C.

The history of Peru in the remote ages is not so clearly ascertained as

that of Mexico; traditions were not handed down to posterity as in that

country by symbolical paintings, but were remembered only by means of

the quippus, a knotted string of different colours, or by the priests

who were brought up from their youth in temples, where the history of

the nation was one of the objects of the care of their elders in their

instruction.

Although it is doubtful which nation had advanced to the greatest state

of civilization, it is certain that the Mexicans had the most correct

chronological notions; and accordingly, the æras of their early history

are the most to be depended on. From what country the ancient Peruvians

migrated is not known; they were however of a character widely

different from the Mexicans, and have been conjectured by some authors

to have come from the south-east.

They remained for a length of time without any decided form of

government, until they were subdued by a tribe who were said to have

come from an island in a great lake to the south of Peru. These people

were warlike and totally different in their manners from the Peruvians,

who were merely tribes of wandering inoffensive savages. According to

some authors MANCO CAPAC, and MAMA OELLO his wife were the conquerors

of Peru, appearing on the banks of lake Chucuito, clothed in flowing

garments, and whiter than the natives whom they came amongst; they

gave themselves out as children of the sun, sent by that divinity to

reclaim and instruct mankind. Awed by the presence of these people,

the rude savages followed them till they settled at Cuzco, where they

founded a town, afterwards the capital of Peru. Persuading the tribes

who wandered over the country to collect around them, Manco Capac,

instructed the men in agricultural and other useful arts, while Mama

Oello taught the females to weave and spin. After securing the objects

of primary importance, those of providing food, raiment and habitations

for his followers, Manco Capac turned his attention towards framing

laws for their government, in order to perpetuate the good work he had

begun. He constituted himself their sovereign and high priest, enacted

a law that no one but his descendants were to fill this post, that they

were to be held sacred, and looked upon as inferior only to the planet

from whom they sprung.

At first his territories embraced only a few leagues in extent round

the capital, but these were rapidly enlarged from the mild and

beneficent effects of his patriarchal government.

He was now styled by his subjects Capac, or rich in virtue; he founded

the temple of the sun at Cuzco, which was to be served only by virgins

of royal descent. This monarch lived among his people for a number

of years and then suddenly disappeared. His successors increased the

boundaries of their territories by the force of their arms, and by the

greater force of persuasion, backed by the mildest exercise of their

royal functions.

These monarchs were styled Incas, and were distinguished by a peculiar

dress and ornaments, which none of their subjects dared to assume;

they were adored by the Peruvians, who looked upon them as the sons

and vicegerents of the divinity they worshipped. This unbounded power

of the Incas was unaccompanied by any ill effects, as their attention

was uniformly exerted for the good of their subjects, in extending the

benefits of civilization, and knowledge of the arts introduced by their

founder.

It seems highly probable that such a person as Manco Capac existed, and

that he introduced the measures we have related, but it is also most

probable that he was accompanied by followers who carried his dictates

into effect among the rude Peruvians, and therefore the supposition

that these people were conquered by a superior and warlike tribe from

the south, is by no means improbable, as at the present day, there

exist several tribes in the southern forests, who are more civilized

than the modern Peruvians, and who have successfully resisted the

invasion of the Spaniards. The successor of Manco Capac, who died in

the latter end of the twelfth or beginning of the thirteenth century,

was his son _Sinchi Roca_, or the brave, who extended his dominions

sixty miles south of Cuzco. The third Inca was _Lloque Yupanqui_, who

further extended the territories of Cuzco and reduced several tribes;

the fourth was _Maita Capac_, who also added to the empire, and erected

several splendid edifices; the fifth, _Capac Yupanqui_, was another

conqueror; the sixth, _Inca Roca_, subdued many small districts; the

seventh was named _Yahuar Huacac_; the eighth, _Inca Ripac_, and who

had an army of 30,000 men; he conquered many provinces, and obliged

the chief of Tucuman to pay him homage; the ninth was _Inca Urca_,

who was deposed after he had reigned eleven days; he was succeeded

by _Pachacutec_, who subdued Jauja, Tarma, and other provinces; the

eleventh was _Yupanqui_, who carried his conquests to the river Maule,

in Chili, and over the Mojos far to the east of the Andes; the

twelfth, _Tupac Yupanqui_, conquered several districts in Quito; and

the thirteenth, _Huayna Capac_, subdued the kingdom of Lican or Quito,

and established himself in the capital. His history has been related

in the historical description of that province. On his death-bed he

divided Quito and Peru between his sons; but _Inti Cusi Hualpa_, or

_Huascar_, was declared Inca; he fought a bloody battle with his

brother _Atahualpa_, and was taken prisoner, on which _Atahualpa_ or

_Atabalipa_, invested himself with the regal fillet, and was proclaimed

fifteenth Inca of the Peruvians. On his being killed by Pizarro, _Manco

Capac_ was crowned by permission of that general, but revolted from

the allegiance he had vowed to Spain, and retiring to the mountains,

is supposed to have died about 1553. The seventeenth and last of the

Incas, was _Sayri Tupac_, who resigned his sovereignty to Philip the

Eleventh of Spain, and died a christian, leaving only one daughter,

who married Onez de Loyola, a Spanish knight, from whom descend the

Marquesses of _Oropesa_ and _Alcanises._ Manco Capac, the Second, left

several children, one of whom, _Tupac Amaru_, was the oldest, and

was beheaded by the Spaniards, on pretence of his having assumed the

imperial fillet.

The discovery of Peru by the Europeans takes its date from the latter

end of the reign of Huana Capac in 1524, when three inhabitants of the

city of Panama entered into an association for the purpose of exploring

the continent south of the isthmus of Darien. Don Francisco Pizarro of

Truxillo, Don Diego Almagro of Malagon, and a priest named Hernando

de Luque, were at that time among the richest people of Panama, and

proposed to themselves the employment of their fortunes in one common

stock, to discover and conquer new countries on the south, after the

model of Cortez in Mexico, with whom Pizarro had served, and to whom

he was related. Having obtained permission from Pedro Arias de Avila,

the governor of Terra Firma, _Pizarro_ fitted out a vessel, in which he

embarked in the port of Panama with 114 men.

About fifty leagues from the harbour, he discovered a small barren

district, named _Peru_, and from this now unknown spot, the celebrated

country we are describing received its name. Beyond Peru, he explored

another district, which he called _El Pueblo Quemado_. The Indians

of that country were so resolute, that Pizarro was obliged to return

to the coast of Panama. In the mean time Almagro fitted out another

vessel and sailed in search of Pizarro, as far as the Rio San Juan, a

hundred leagues south of Panama, but not meeting with him, he returned

and landed on the coast of Pueblo Quemado, where finding certain

indications that he had been there, Almagro landed his men, who were

immediately attacked by the natives, and forced to retire to their ship

and put to sea; in this action Almagro lost an eye. Following the shore

to the north, he found Pizarro at Chinchama, near the Isla del Rey, in

the gulf of Panama; they had now by their junction an armed force of

200 men, and again resumed their expedition, and sailed to the south,

with their two vessels attended by three large canoes. They suffered

very much in their attempts to land on the coast from the barren nature

of the country, and from contrary winds and currents, as well as from

the native tribes.

Having lost several men from famine and the constant attacks of the

Indians, Almagro was dispatched to Panama for recruits and provisions.

He soon rejoined Pizarro with twenty-four men and good supplies; they

therefore advanced to the coast of Tacames, beyond the river San Juan,

which had hitherto been the extent of their voyages; here they found

a better peopled country and plenty of provision; and the natives,

who were still hostile, were observed to wear ornaments of gold.

Almagro was therefore detached a second time to Panama to procure

more men, and Pizarro remained at the _Isla Gallo_, near the shore of

Barbacoas, to await his return; in which island his men suffered great

hardships from the want of food. On the arrival of Almagro at Panama,

he found the governor, Pedro de los Rios, adverse to the plan, and

he was not allowed to raise any recruits, while an order was sent to

Gallo, for those to return who wished not to engage in such a dangerous

enterprise. In consequence of this measure, the party of Pizarro was

reduced to twelve men, who were the whole that chose to abide the issue

of the voyage. They retired with their leader to a small uninhabited

isle, named _Gorgona_, at a greater distance from the coast, and

seventy miles nearer Panama. This isle abounding with rivulets, the

little band lived more comfortably than they had done at Gallo, and

waited with great anxiety for a supply of provisions from Panama, which

at last arrived in a small vessel.

With this assistance, Pizarro and his faithful twelve, embarked on

board the vessel, and putting themselves under the guidance of the

pilot, Bartolomeo Bruye of Moguer, they reached with great labour,

(from the adverse currents,) the coast of a district named _Mostripe_,

on which they landed and advanced a short way up the river Amatape,

which flows into the gulf of Payta, where they procured some Peruvian

camels or sheep, and took some of the natives to answer as interpreters

in their future progress.

Leaving this place, Pizarro sailed for the port of _Tumbez_ on the

south side of the bay of Guayaquil, where he had learnt that a rich

monarch who existed in the interior had a fine palace. At Tumbez, three

of his followers left him, and were afterwards slain by the Indians.

Procuring the information he wanted, Pizarro returned to Panama,

having spent three years in these discoveries, and from being the

richest was now reduced to be the poorest of the colonists of Tierra

Firma. In concert with Almagro, in the latter end of 1527, Pizarro

raised some money, and was sent to Spain to beseech the king to forward

the further discovery of the country, and to name a governor, which

office he solicited for himself. His demands were complied with, and

he returned to Panama, accompanied by his brothers Ferdinand, Juan and

Gonzalo.

Besides these, he brought with him Francisco Martin de Alcantara, his

uncle, and as many men as he could procure; he was assisted in raising

these men, by a supply of money from Cortez.

On his arrival in Panama, in 1530, a violent dispute broke out between

Almagro and himself, the former complaining that he had unjustly

procured the title of governor of Peru. Pizarro was obliged to soothe

him, by assuring him that he would renounce all pretensions to that

office, if Almagro could procure the consent of the Spanish monarch.

Almagro being appeased by this concession, exerted himself at first,

to the utmost, in forwarding the expedition, but owing to the jealousy

he still entertained of the Pizarros, he at last endeavoured to thwart

their efforts, and Pizarro sailed without him, with three small

vessels, carrying 180 soldiers, thirty-six of whom were horsemen in

February 1531; contrary winds obliged the general, after a voyage of

thirteen days, to land 100 leagues more to the north than he intended,

and the place of disembarkation was named the _Bay of St. Mateo_, from

whence the troops had to undergo a long and painful march, crossing

rivers and other obstacles; they at last reached _Coaque_, a place in

Tacames on the sea-side, where they procured fresh provision. After

subduing the natives of this town, Pizarro sent one of the ships which

had sailed along the coast, to Panama, and the other to Nicaragua, with

about 24,000 or 25,000 ducats worth of gold, which he had seized. This

was destined for Almagro and others, in order to procure a farther

reinforcement, with which he was gradually supplied, the first who

joined him being Benalcazar, from Nicaragua. He then continued his

march along the coast, and met with scarcely any resistance, until

he attacked the _Isle of Puna_, in the bay of Guayaquil. Six months

expired before he could reduce this island to subjection, and from

hence he went to Tumbez, where, on account of the disease which raged

among his men, he remained three months longer.

From Tumbez, he advanced in May 1532, to the river _Piura_, and close

to its mouth founded the first Spanish colony in Peru, to which he gave

the name of _San Miguel_, having subdued all the curacas or chiefs in

the vicinity. While engaged in founding this city, the general received

a message from Huascar, the reigning Inca, informing him of the revolt

of Atahualpa, and requesting his assistance in establishing the empire

in the hands of its lawful sovereign. Placing a garrison in San Miguel,

Pizarro determined to penetrate into the interior, under the guidance

of the Inca's messengers; his disposable force consisting at this time,

of sixty-two horsemen and 102 foot soldiers, twenty of whom were armed

with cross-bows, and three only carrying matchlocks, with two small

field-pieces. The Peruvian ambassador directed his march towards the

province of _Caxamarca_, in which Atahualpa then was. On his route he

received messengers from the usurper with costly presents, requesting

also his assistance.

Pizarro informed these people, that his views were entirely pacific,

and that he meant merely to assist in reconciling the difference

between the brothers. On his arrival, after a distressing march at

Caxamarca, he was shown a house, in which himself and troops were to

repose. This building, which was very extensive, was formed into

a square, in which stood a temple and a palace, and the whole was

surrounded with a strong rampart.

Atahualpa, immediately after the Spaniards had taken possession of

their quarters, paid their general a visit, accompanied with an immense

train of courtiers and warriors.

Father Vicente Valverde, the chaplain to the army, and bishop of Peru,

advanced to meet the usurping Inca, holding in one hand his breviary,

and a crucifix in the other, and commenced a long harangue, in which

he set forth the necessity of his immediately embracing the Christian

religion, related its forms, and told him that the king of Spain, had

received a grant from the pope of all the regions in the New World,

ending with desiring him to be baptized, to acknowledge the supremacy

of the pope, and the authority of the king of Castile, promising in

their names, that the general would favour his claims to the empire of

Peru, if he submitted, but denouncing war and vengeance if he refused.

The reply of Atahualpa, to such parts of this speech as he could

be made to comprehend, was temperate; he said, "he was lord of the

territories he had succeeded to by the laws of his country, that he

could not conceive how a foreign priest could pretend to dispose of his

dominions; he declared he had no intention to renounce the religion

of his fathers, and he wished to know where the Spaniards had learnt

all the wonderful things which Valverde had been relating;" the bishop

answered, "in the book he held," on which Atahualpa requested it from

him, and turning over a few leaves, and placing it to his ear, threw it

on the ground, saying, "it is silent, it tells me nothing." Valverde

turning to the Spanish troops, immediately exclaimed, "To arms! to

arms! Christians! the Word of God is insulted, avenge this profanation

on these impious dogs." Pizarro being of opinion that the numbers of

the Peruvians would overpower him if he waited their attack, gave the

signal of assault, advancing at the head of his band to the charge, he

pushed directly for the litter in which Atahualpa was borne, the people

who carried it were repeatedly slain, and as repeatedly replaced by

others, anxious for the honour of rescuing their sovereign. Pizarro

at last cut his way through the crowd to the unfortunate prince, and

seizing him by the long hair of his head, he dragged him from his seat.

In doing this, several soldiers cutting down the people who supported

the golden litter, and a sword glancing off, wounded Pizarro in the

hand, but regardless of the pain, he held fast his rich prize in spite

of the multitude of Peruvians who surrounded him.

As soon as the monarch was secured beyond redemption, universal panic

seized his army, and they fled in every direction, night alone putting

a period to their pursuit, by the cavalry; 4000 Indians fell in this

memorable battle, which decided the fate of a mighty empire; not a

single Spaniard was killed, and the plunder of the Indian camp was

immense. This action took place on the 10th of November 1532.

The captive Inca finding he had no chance of escape, offered a ransom,

which was to be so great a quantity of gold, that it would fill the

apartment in which he was confined, as high as he could reach. This

chamber was twenty-two feet in length, and sixteen in breadth, and a

line was drawn around the walls, to indicate the height to which the

treasure was to rise; and Pizarro, acceding to this proposal, the Inca

immediately dispatched emissaries to Cuzco, to procure the ransom; with

these messengers two Spanish officers were sent, to see that the gold

in the treasury of Cuzco was sufficient to answer the demand, as some

doubts had been shown by the Europeans on that subject. On their route,

they met the captive Inca Huascar, escorted by a party of Atahualpa's

troops; conferring with Huascar, they discovered that he possessed

treasures to a much greater amount; but as they were concealed, he

alone knew where they were; he informed the officers, that if Pizarro

would reinstate him in his dignity, he would give three times as much

gold as his brother, and promised to swear allegiance to the Spanish

king.

Soto and Barco, the two officers, told him it was out of their power to

return to Caxamarca, as they were ordered to go to Cuzco, but that they

would faithfully relate all that had passed to the general, when they

had executed their mission; this they did, but in the interval, the

whole conference had been detailed to Atahualpa, who foreseeing, that

if Pizarro once got possession of the enormous treasures of Huascar,

he should become of no importance, ordered his emissaries to kill his

unfortunate brother; and as his will was a law, the order was speedily

carried into execution.

Whilst these events were passing, Almagro arrived from Panama,

with a large reinforcement, to the great joy of the Spaniards; the

treasure from Cuzco also arrived, and consisted of golden utensils and

ornaments, used in the temples of the Sun; these, excepting a few which

were reserved as curiosities, were melted down; a fifth was set aside

for the king; 100,000 dollars were distributed to the followers of

Almagro; and the remainder, amounting to 1,528,500 dollars, an enormous

sum in those times, was divided among Pizarro and his troops, each

horseman receiving 8000 dollars, and each foot-soldier 4000.

After this ransom was paid, instead of releasing his prisoner, Pizarro,

who was alarmed on one hand by the exaction of an equal share of the

ransom by the troops under Almagro, and on the other by the accounts

of large armies forming in the interior determined to kill Atahualpa,

which fate that monarch hastened, by professing his contempt of

the general, on account of his want of learning. The Inca seeing

and admiring the method which the Europeans had of communicating

their ideas by writing, was for a long time unable to conceal his

astonishment and doubts, whether it was not managed by evil spirits;

accordingly he directed a soldier to write the name of God on his thumb

nail, and showed it to every Spaniard he saw, in order to observe

whether they all gave a similar account of its meaning.

At length he showed it to Pizarro, who blushing, acknowledged that he

was ignorant of the art of writing, which was an acquirement that most

of his nation possessed. From that time the Inca, who now clearly saw

the whole mystery, looked upon the general, as a person of low birth,

less instructed than the meanest of his soldiers, and not having the

address to conceal his sentiments, forfeited any good opinion which

Pizarro might have had for him. A mock trial was instituted, and the

Inca formally arraigned, before the self-constituted tribunal, which

consisted of Pizarro, Almagro, and two assistants; he was charged

by Philipillo, an Indian, who had been to Spain with Pizarro, with

attempting to seize the empire of Peru from his natural sovereign; with

putting him to death; with idolatry; permission and encouragement of

human sacrifices; with having many wives; with waste and embezzlement

of the royal treasure, and with inciting his subjects to take up arms

against the Spaniards.

Witnesses were examined, to whom Philipillo served as an interpreter,

and gave their evidence as he pleased. On these charges the Inca was

condemned to suffer death, by being burnt alive. Valverde signed the

warrant, and attended the monarch to the stake, which was immediately

prepared. Actuated by the fear of a cruel death, and tormented by

the infamous bishop, Atahualpa consented to be baptized, in hopes of

obtaining a release from so dreadful a punishment. Valverde crossed

and confessed his royal victim, baptized him, and then led him to be

strangled!

On the death of Atahualpa, his son was invested with the royal insignia

by Pizarro, who hoped to retain the Indians in subjection, by the

command he held over their sovereign.

Quizquiz, a Peruvian general, had made head in a province named Xauxa,

so that it was necessary for Pizarro to march against him; this was

accordingly done; and Hernando de Soto, moving forward with a strong

advanced guard, Quizquiz retreated, being unable to withstand Soto; but

that leader followed him, and obliged the Peruvians to retreat on Quito.

So great was the fame of Pizarro's conquests at this time, that

numerous bodies of troop joined him from Tierra Firma, Guatimala, &c.,

and he was now enabled to take the field with 500 men, besides leaving

sufficient garrisons in the conquered towns. He accordingly hastened

his march on Cuzco, the capital, in the route to which he met _Paulu

Inca_, a brother of Atahualpa, who had been solemnly invested with the

regal fillet by the Peruvians. He told the Spanish general that he had

a large army at Cuzco, who were ready to submit to his orders. On the

arrival of the Spaniards they were however attacked very vigorously by

the Peruvians, and a battle ensued which lasted till night.

The next day the general entered the metropolis without opposition,

where he found an immense booty; his thoughts were now turned on

colonizing the country, and placing such a force in Cuzco as should

insure a permanent settlement there; this he effected with much

difficulty, as many of his followers were determined to return to

Spain in order to enjoy in their native country the fruits of their

hard-earned wealth.

San Miguel the first town built by the Spaniards being poorly

garrisoned, Pizarro now sent Benalcazar with ten horsemen to reinforce

the place. This officer receiving complaints from the neighbouring

Indians of the exactions and vindictive proceedings of the Peruvians

at Quito, took with him a number of soldiers who had then arrived

from Panama and Nicaragua to subdue that country; his success was

complete. Quito and Cuzco the two capitals being now reduced Fernando

Pizarro was dispatched by his brother to Spain, to lay an account of

the proceedings of the Spanish Army before the king, carrying with him

an immensely valuable present in gold and silver. He was favourably

received, Pizarro was confirmed in his government and a further

addition of seventy leagues to the south made to his territories; on

Almagro was conferred the government of the countries 200 leagues

south of the limits prescribed to Pizarro, who was created Marquess of

Atavillos.

While the negotiations were going on, Alvarado the governor of

Guatimala had landed on the Peruvian coast with a large force, and gone

into the interior with the intention of dispossessing Almagro of his

command, and Pizarro of the possession of Cuzco, but marching against

the army of the former who was employed in reducing the provinces

between Quito and Peru, his men refused to fight their brethren, and

the leaders after much parleying became reconciled; Alvarado promising

to deliver over his troops to the two generals for a stipulated sum,

which was honourably paid him by Pizarro. These troubles being at an

end, Pizarro founded the city of Lima, on the 18th of January, 1533,

and transferred the colonists he had placed in Xauxa thither.

While he was thus employed Almagro having heard of the king's grant,

determined to take possession of Cuzco, which he considered within his

limit; in this attempt he was defeated by the municipal body of that

place, and Pizarro arriving in good time, put a stop to his further

proceedings. It was then agreed that Almagro should have 500 men, and

proceed southward, conquering such countries as he deemed expedient, in

which he was to be assisted by every means in Pizarro's power; this was

the commencement of the conquest of Chili.

After the departure of Almagro on this scheme, Pizarro resumed his task

of giving a regular form to his government, by making the necessary

distributions of land to the colonists who were continually arriving,

by instituting courts of justice, and by founding towns, &c. Manco

Capac the reigning Inca revolted at this period, and entered, with

Philipillo and others, into a conspiracy to exterminate the armies of

Pizarro and Almagro; he obtained possession of Cuzco, which was not

taken from him until after eight days hard fighting, and with the loss

of Juan Pizarro, who was killed by a stone.

The brothers of Pizarro, who was at Lima, had much difficulty to

maintain possession of the capital; all communication between them and

the governor being cut off, and the place was vigorously besieged by

Manco Capac and his brothers Paullu and Villaoma, for eight months,

during which time the Spaniards lost many men. Almagro hearing of these

disasters, thought this a convenient time to assert his old pretensions

to the government of Cuzco, and accordingly marched from the frontiers

of Chili to that place in 1537. He was met by the Inca, who under

pretence of making overtures to him, drew him into a snare, from which

he narrowly escaped, with the loss of several of his men.

The brothers of Pizarro finding they had now a new enemy to withstand,

prepared Cuzco to undergo a formidable siege; but having lost six

hundred men during the attacks of the Peruvians, they were surprised by

the troops of Almagro who forced them to submit, and declared himself

governor of the place, imprisoning Fernando and Gonzalo Pizarro, and

quartering Philipillo, who was taken prisoner in the ambush of the Inca.

Manco Capac finding that Almagro was too strong to be easily ejected,

retired to the mountains, but his brother Paullu remaining at Cuzco,

was raised to the throne of Peru by Almagro. It was some time before

all these untoward tidings reached the ears of the new Marquess

Pizarro; he first heard of the attack of the city by the Inca, and

imagining it to be a trivial affair, detached small parties at

different periods to the assistance of his brothers; none of these

reached their destination, being always cut off by the Peruvians in the

narrow and difficult passes of the mountains. Some few of these people

escaping from the massacre, which always took place on their being

surprised, returned to Lima, and related the fate of their companions

to the Marquess, who recalling all his outposts, nominated Alvarado to

the command of the army, and sent him towards Cuzco, with 500 men; but

being closely invested at Lima by the Peruvians, under Titu Yupanqui, a

brother of Manco Capac, he sent off all his vessels to Panama, fearful

that the troops might otherwise desert, and by these ships he implored

assistance from the governors of New Spain and the West Indies.

Alvarado, after a harassing march, and fighting severe battles with

the Peruvians, halted near the bridge of _Abancay_ on the Apurimac;

at which place he was met by a messenger from Almagro, insisting on

his acknowledging the title he bore to the government of Cuzco. An

unsatisfactory reply being sent, Almagro advanced to attack the army

under Alvarado, and by dint of bribery, corrupting the greater part of

it, obtained a bloodless victory on the 12th of July, 1537.

Pizarro hearing nothing of his general, and receiving a strong

reinforcement from Hispaniola, marched from Lima with 700 men to

relieve his brothers at Cuzco from the Peruvians, not having yet heard

of the usurpation of Almagro. Having marched twenty-five leagues, he

received the intelligence of the death of one of his brothers, the

imprisonment of the other two, and of the determined opposition of

Almagro; this news so much alarmed him that he immediately returned to

Lima, and dispatched a messenger to Cuzco to treat with Almagro; but

that officer instead of returning an answer marched to within twenty

leagues of Lima, where he was met by Pizarro who seemed earnest to heal

the breach amicably; but after various endeavours to obtain this end,

he found it necessary to have recourse to force; and Almagro, finding

himself unable to cope with him, retreated to Cuzco, whither Ferdinand

Pizarro pursued him: a dreadful battle then took place near that city,

on a plain called _Salinas_ or _Cachipampa_, in which Almagro was

defeated and taken prisoner, and was soon afterwards brought to trial

and beheaded.

This important affair being settled, the marquess dispatched troops in

all directions to conquer and subdue those provinces which remained

under the domination of the Indians. In these expeditions, and in

settling the affairs of his government, Pizarro was fully occupied for

two years, during which time he was much distressed by the mutinous

conduct of the Almagrian party, who at last assassinated him on the

26th of June, 1541.

Soon after the untimely death of Pizarro, Vaca de Castro was appointed

governor, while the court of Madrid were employed in taking measures

to put a stop to the contentions of the colonies. He was removed to

make room for Blasco Vela, who was nominated the first viceroy of Peru,

and who landed at Tumbez in the month of February, 1543. The conduct

of this viceroy increased the disaffection and contention of the

colonists, many of whom siding with Gonzalo Pizarro, chose him as their

leader. After various actions with the royal troops, Gonzalo at last

utterly defeated them in a pitched battle, in which the viceroy was

slain.

Upon this occasion Gonzalo Pizarro was advised to assume the sceptre

of Peru, but he chose to treat with Spain. During the interval which

elapsed before the return of his ambassadors, Pedro de la Gasca, a

priest, was sent over as president: finding he could not persuade

Pizarro to any terms, he gave him battle, in which the latter was

taken, and being brought to trial by the president, was beheaded on the

10th of April, 1548.

After this action, Gasca set himself about to reform abuses, and render

the government more stable; he was occupied in this work till 1550,

when wishing to return to a private station, he quitted Peru, and

entrusted the command of the presidency to the royal court of audience,

till the pleasure of the king should be manifested.

After the departure of Gasca, till the arrival of the second viceroy,

Mendoza, Peru continued to be in a state of continual ferment, which

lasted more or less until his death. The next viceroy was the Marquess

de Canete, who arrived in Lima in July 1557. He was succeeded in July

1560, by the Conde de Neiva, who, dying suddenly, was replaced by

Lope Garcia de Castro with the title of president, until Francisco de

Toledo arrived from Spain, to assume the viceregal government, who had

been only two years in Peru, when he attacked _Tupac Amaru_, the son

of Manco Capac, who had taken refuge in the mountains. A force of two

hundred and fifty men was detached to Vilcapampa under Martin Garcia

Loyola, to whom the Inca surrendered himself, with his wife, two sons,

and a daughter, who were all carried prisoners to Cuzco.

This unfortunate prince was brought to trial for supposed crimes, and

at the same time, all the sons of Indian women by the Spaniards, were

committed to confinement, under the charge of endeavouring to assist

Tupac Amaru, in overturning the Spanish government. Many of these poor

people were put to the torture, others were banished, and all the males

who were nearly related to the Inca, or who were capable of succeeding

to the throne, were ordered to live in Lima, where the whole of them

died.

Tupac Amaru was sentenced to lose his head; previous to the execution,

the priests baptized him in the prison, from whence he was led on a

mule to the scaffold, with his hands tied, and a halter about his neck,

amid the tears of his people. Thus ended the line of the emperors of

Peru; than whom, a more beneficent race of monarchs, in a barbarous

state, has never been known.

The viceroy, Toledo, after continuing sixteen years in Peru, amassed

a large fortune and returned to Spain, when falling under royal

displeasure, he was confined to his house and his property sequestered,

which preyed so much on his mind, that he died of a broken heart.

Martin Garcia Loyola, who had made Tupac Amaru prisoner, married a

Coya, or Peruvian princess, daughter of the former Inca Sayri Tupac, by

whom he acquired a large estate; but being made governor of Chili, he

was slain in that country by the natives.

After the death of Tupac Amaru, the royal authority was gradually

established as firmly in Peru as in the other Spanish colonies, and

that country has continued to be governed by viceroys appointed by the

Spanish king, up to the present time. The only event of any particular

importance, which has occurred till very lately, was the insurrection

of the natives in 1781, under Jose Gabriel Condorcanqui, a descendant

of, and styling himself Tupac Amaru. He was born in Tongusuca, a

village of Tinta, and had been carefully educated by his family at

home; on the death of his father, he petitioned the Spanish court to

restore him the title of Marquess of Oropesa, which had been granted

to Sayri Tupac, his ancestor; but finding his request unattended to,

retired to the mountains, and giving himself out as the only and true

sovereign of Peru, the Indians flocked to his standard, especially

those in the neighbourhood of Cuzco, who had suffered severely from the

tyranny of the corregidor Arriaga.

With every mark of the most profound submission, they bound the

imperial fillet on his brow, and he was proclaimed Inca by the title of

_Tupac Amaru the Second_: collecting an immense army he appeared before

the walls of Cuzco, and in the beginning of his campaign, he protected

all ecclesiastics and people born in America, vowing vengeance solely

against the European Spaniards; but his followers, elevated by the

success which every where attended them, began a war of extermination

against all but Indians, the consequences of which were dreadful, and

will ever be remembered in Peru.

His brother Diego, and his nephew Andres Condorcanqui, favoured this

disposition of the Indians, and committed enormities which it was out

of the power of Tupac Amaru to repress. This insurrection lasted two

years, and he made himself master of the provinces or districts of

Quispicanchi, Tinta, Lampa, Asangara, Caravaja and Chumbivilca; but was

at last surprised and taken prisoner with all his family, and a short

time after this event, they were all quartered in the city of Cuzco,

excepting Diego, who had escaped.

So great was the veneration of the Peruvians for Tupac Amaru, that

when he was led to execution, they prostrated themselves in the

streets, though surrounded by soldiers, and uttered piercing cries and

execrations as they beheld the last of the children of the sun torn to

pieces.

Diego surrendered voluntarily, and a convention was signed between him

and the Spanish general, at the village of Siguani, in Tinta, on the

21st of January, 1782; from which time he lived peaceably with his

family, but was taken up twenty years afterwards on suspicion of being

concerned in a revolt that happened at Riobamba, in Quito, in which

great cruelty was exercised against the whites. His judges condemned

him to lose his head, and since that period, Peru has been in a state

of profound tranquillity, though now surrounded by states torn with the

most dreadful convulsions.

Having now related the principal occurrences concerning the history

of Peru, we shall give a concise description of the people of that

kingdom; and in so doing, shall be led to the general relation of

the manner in which the vast continent of Spanish America has been

governed, and to a summary of the history of the present struggle.

The Peruvians, at the time they were discovered by Pizarro, had

advanced to a considerable degree of civilization; they knew the arts

of architecture, sculpture, mining, working the precious metals and

jewels, cultivated their land, were clothed, and had a regular system

of government, and a code of civil and religious laws. The lands were

divided into regular allotments, one share being consecrated to the

sun, and its products appropriated to the support of religious rites;

the second belonged to the Incas, and was devoted to the support of

the government, and the last and largest share was set aside for the

people. These were cultivated in common, no person having a longer

title than one year to the portion given him.

In their agricultural pursuits they displayed great diligence and

ingenuity, irrigating their fields, and manuring them with the dung

of sea fowls procured from the islands on the coast; they also turned

up the earth with a sort of mattock formed of hard wood. In the arts

of architecture they had advanced far beyond the other nations of

America. The great temple of the sun at Pachacamac, with the palace

of the Inca, and the fortress, were so connected together as to form

one great building half a league in circuit, and many ruins of palaces

and temples still existing, prove the extent of the knowledge and

perseverance of these people.

The immense obelisks of _Tiahuacan_, and the town of _Chulunacas_,

with the mausolea of _Chachapoyas_, which are conical stone buildings

supporting large rude busts, are among the most singular, though

unfortunately the least known of the Peruvian remains; and are equally

curious as the great military roads with their accompanying palaces or

posts; together with the buildings still existing in the province of

Quito, which have already been described.

Their skill in polishing stones to form mirrors, in sharpening them

to serve as hatchets and instruments of war, was as admirable as the

ingenuity they displayed in all their ornamental works of gold, silver

and precious stones.

In the religion of the Peruvians few of those sanguinary traits which

so forcibly marked the character of the worship of the Mexicans were

found; they adored the Sun as the supreme Deity, under whose influence

they also acknowledged various dependent gods; and instead of offering

human victims on the altars, they presented to that glorious luminary

a part of the productions of the earth, which had come to life and

maturity through his genial warmth, and they sacrificed as an oblation

of gratitude some animals before his shrine, placing around it the most

skilful works of their hands.

Next to the sun they beheld their Incas with the greatest reverence,

looking upon them as his immediate descendants and vicegerents upon

earth. The system universally adopted by these patriarchal kings, bound

the affections of their people more firmly to them, than even this

their supposed divine legation; and as they never intermarried with

their subjects, they were kept at so great a distance that their power

was unbounded. The only sanguinary feature displayed in the Peruvian

rites, was in their burials; as, on the death of the Incas, or of any

great curaca or chief, a number of his servants and domestic animals

were slain and interred around the guacas or tumuli, that they might

be ready to attend them in a future state, in which these people fully

believed. When Huana Capac, the greatest of the Incas, was buried, 1000

victims were doomed to accompany his body to the tomb.

In ancient Peru the only very large city was Cuzco or Couzco; every

where else the people lived in villages or in scattered habitations:

and as the palaces of the Incas and their fortresses, which were built

in all parts of the country, were rarely surrounded with the houses of

the natives, very few distinct towns remain.

The ancient Peruvians had traditions concerning a deluge, in which

their ancestors were all drowned, excepting a few who got into caves

in the high mountains; they also adored two beings named Con and

Pachacamac, who created the race of Peruvians in an extraordinary

manner; and they asserted that Pachacamac dwelt amongst them till the

Spaniards came, when he suddenly disappeared.

But the Peruvians of the present day are a very different people from

their progenitors, as they are timid and dispirited, melancholy in

their temperament, severe and inexorable in the exercise of authority,

wonderfully indifferent to the general concerns of life, and seeming

to have little notion, or dread of death. They stand in awe of their

European masters, but secretly dislike and shun their society, and

they are said to be of a distrustful disposition, and though robust

and capable of enduring great fatigue, yet they are very lazy. Their

habitations are miserable hovels, destitute of every convenience

or accommodation, and disgustingly filthy; their dress is poor and

mean, and their food coarse and scanty; their strongest propensity

is to spirituous liquors, and to that they sacrifice all other

considerations, but which is unmixed with any love for gaming: they

follow all the external rites of the catholic religion, and spend large

sums in masses and processions.

Soon after the conquest of America, the country and the Indians were

parcelled out into _encomiendas_, a sort of feudal benefices which were

divided among the conquerors, and the priests and lawyers who arrived

from Spain; the holder of this property was obliged to reside on his

estate, to see the Indians properly instructed in religions duties,

and to protect their persons. In return the natives were bound to pay

the _encomendero_ a certain tribute, but they were not reduced to

absolute slavery. This system was variously modified and changed by the

successors of Charles V. who introduced it, till the reign of Philip V.

when it was entirely abolished on account of the continual complaints

which were made to that sovereign of the exactions of the Spaniards,

and their total neglect of the Indians.

This plan was followed by one still more fatal, that of the

_repartimientos_; according to which the governor or judge of the

district was directed to supply the Indians in his department with

cattle, seed corn, implements of agriculture, clothes and food at a

fixed price. The abuses attendant on such a system were enormous, and

so grievously were the natives afflicted that it at last was abolished

in 1779. Spanish America was incorporated to the crown of Castile

by Charles V. on September 14th, 1559, at a solemn council held in

Barcelona; but notwithstanding this decree declared that the white

inhabitants of America were to have no personal controul over the

Indians, the greatest enormities were still committed.

In Caraccas the natives were enslaved, and carried to the plantations

in the West Indies, from which they were not freed till after the

repeated remonstrances of Las Casas, Montesino, Cordova and others;

these remonstrances gave rise to the establishment of the royal

audiences and the council of the Indies; the jurisdiction of the latter

extending to every department; all laws and ordinances relative to

the government and police of the colonies originate in it, and must

be approved by two-thirds of the members; all the offices, of which

the nomination is reserved as a royal prerogative, are conferred on

this council, and to it every person employed in Spanish America is

responsible.

It receives all dispatches, &c., and is in fact the government of the

Indies.

Since the establishment of this council, the royal audiences or

superior tribunals, and the regular succession of viceroys and

captain-generals, the Americas have been governed, if not with less

rigour, at least with more beneficial results to the Indians. They

are left to manage their own concerns as they please, and no one can

interfere in the disposal of their property. In Peru alone they are

subjected to the _mita_, a law obliging them to furnish certain quotas

for the mining operations, but for which they are well paid, and

generally become resident miners; they are not under the controul of

the inquisition, and pay no other tax than a capitation tribute, which

is very moderate, and rather a mark of vassalage or distinction from

the other classes, than a burden.

In their towns the Indians are always the magistrates, and they

are allowed to enter into holy orders: but no Spaniard or white is

permitted by the law to intermarry with them or to settle in their

towns, the Indians always residing in a distinct quarter from the

Europeans, and other castes. The Indians and their descendants

are the only people in this part of the world who can endure the

unwholesomeness and fatigues attendant on the mining operations, as

the Spaniards and Negroes sink under the toil in a short time; but

the number of Indians has decreased since the conquest to an alarming

extent from the ravages of the small-pox, and from the fatal effects

of intoxicating liquors, though according to the statements of late

travellers this branch of the population is again on the increase,

probably owing to the general introduction of vaccination, and to the

gradual abolition of the _mita_ in most of the governments.

The total population of Spanish America is reckoned at about

15,000,000, of which three millions are Creoles, or the descendants

of European whites, 200,000 are Spaniards, and the rest are Indians,

negroes, and the mixed descendants of these and the whites, the Indians

bearing the greatest proportion, as Peru alone contains 600,000;

but the negroes are not very numerous, and exist principally in the

provinces of Caraccas and New Granada.

Till the end of the last century the ports of Spanish America were shut

against the whole world, the commerce of the country being carried on

exclusively by two or three large ships called galleons from Manilla,

and by an annual fleet to Spain; but these vessels falling continually

into the hands of enemies, and generally containing all the treasure

on which the Spanish court relied, they were at last abolished, and

special licences were granted by some of the governors to carry on a

trade with the Antilles, and in 1797 the court of Madrid was obliged to

open some of the ports. Urged by extreme necessity Cisneros the Viceroy

of La Plata in 1809, declared the port of Buenos Ayres free to all

nations in alliance with Spain.

The power of Spain was maintained for a long while in her

trans-Atlantic colonies, by a very small number of Spanish troops, who

acted with the national militia on any unforeseen disturbances; the

most profound tranquillity reigned in these happy regions till the year

1797, with the exception of the revolt of Tupac Amaru in 1780, and some

other trifling occurrences. Three prisoners of state, who had been

banished from Spain for revolutionary crimes, arrived at La Guayra, the

port of Caraccas, in the first mentioned year; by dint of argument

these men gained over the soldiers by whom they were guarded, and they

were permitted to hold forth the doctrines at that time so dangerously

afloat in Europe, to the people who came from all parts to hear them,

and finding many admirers among the creoles and mestizoes, formed at

last the daring plan of revolutionizing the country.

These men, instead of remaining to head the revolt, retired to the

islands in the Caribbean sea, on which active measures being taken by

the government the plot was discovered; several who were concerned

in it were executed, and others banished. Previous to this, in 1781,

some reforms and additional taxes which were introduced in New Granada

created such dissatisfaction that 17,000 men collecting themselves

together marched against the city of Santa Fé de Bogota exclaiming

"Long live the King, but death to our bad governors," but this

insurrection was soon quelled by politic measures.

After the disturbances in 1797, the country was again tranquil, until

the period when Napoleon Buonaparte, assuming upon the numerous

victories which the French troops had gained, grasped at the sceptre of

Europe. After subduing, in part, the mother country, and depriving the

king of his liberty, he dispatched his emissaries in every direction

to America; these men were, in general, of acknowledged talents, and

endeavoured by every means in their power, under assumed characters, to

widen the breach which had gradually been opening between Spain and her

colonies.

The Americans, instigated by such advisers, and finding themselves

cut off from all communication with Spain, now intent solely on her

own preservation, were dubious how to act; but the mass of the people

resisted all idea of throwing off their allegiance, and would not

consent to their country being under French controul. Accordingly,

they established juntas in Caraccas, New Granada and Buenos Ayres, in

imitation of similar acts on the part of their Spanish brethren.

In Caraccas and other places, Ferdinand the Seventh was proclaimed with

all due solemnity, and when it was announced in July 1808, that Joseph

Buonaparte had usurped the throne of Spain, 10,000 of the inhabitants

of Caraccas flew to arms, surrounded the palace of the captain-general,

and demanded the proclamation of their sovereign; this he promised

to do next day, but such was their ardour, that they proclaimed

him immediately themselves. In Buenos Ayres, the viceroy, Liniers,

receiving intelligence of the events in the peninsula, in July 1808,

exhorted the people in the name of Buonaparte to remain quiet; but

Xavier Elio, the governor of Monte Video, accused him of disloyalty,

and separated his government from that of Buenos Ayres; and this

officer afterwards ineffectually endeavoured to persuade that city to

acknowledge the title of viceroy, which he had received from the mother

country.

In Mexico, the news of the Spanish affairs was not known, till the 29th

July 1808, when a junta was immediately established; and the city of La

Paz in Charcas, in the beginning of 1809, formed a similar junta for

its government; but the viceroys of Buenos Ayres and Peru opposed this

motion, and both sent armies to quell the insurrection, in which they

were successful.

In Quito a junta was established on the 10th of August, 1809, but

the viceroys of Peru and New Granada, with the greatest promptitude,

detached a force against this city, which compelled the insurgents to

abandon their project. At this time affairs wore a serious aspect in

America; numerous adventurers appeared on her shores, eager to enrich

themselves on the spoils of Spanish power. The partizans of revolution

in Caraccas, the coast of which was more accessible to emissaries from

Europe, formed themselves into a junta suprema, assumed the reins of

government, but still published their acts in the name of the Spanish

monarch. At Buenos Ayres a similar measure was taken; in Chili, the

junta was organized in September, and an insurrection breaking out in

the town of Dolores, near Guanaxuato in Mexico, the whole continent was

now in a state of alarm and tumult.

In the mean time these proceedings were related to the council of

the regency in Spain, which determined that body to take such active

steps as their circumstances enabled them to do, and the coasts of the

captain-generalship of Caraccas were declared in a state of vigorous

blockade. From this period, the revolt in that province and the

northern parts of New Granada, became daily more alarming; General

Miranda was the commander of the Venezuelan army, in which capacity he

achieved one victory, the result of which can never be forgotten in

the Caraccas. The inhabitants of Valencia were for the royal cause,

and though of very inferior force, resisted the insurgent party in two

actions, in the first of which they were victorious, but in the second

were subdued.

The 4th of July 1811, was the day on which the congress of Venezuela

proclaimed themselves the representatives of the free provinces of

Caraccas; and the little village of Mariara, close to the beautiful

lake of Valencia, saw the first blood that was spilt in the civil

war of these unfortunate countries. On the return of the king to his

throne, on which he was placed by the glorious and ever-memorable

conduct of the British and Spanish troops commanded by the Duke of

Wellington; he issued a decree on the 4th of June 1814, announcing to

the Spanish Americans, his arrival in his kingdom, ordering them to lay

down their arms, and promising oblivion of the past; to enforce this

mandate, he also sent General Morillo from Cadiz with a well equipped

army of 10,000 men. This army landed on the coast of Caraccas in

April 1815; but the insurgents not paying attention to His Majesty's

commands, the general immediately commenced active measures. From

Campano, where he landed, he proceeded to Margarita, from thence to

Caraccas, and in the following August he besieged Carthagena.

Previous to his arrival, Boves, a Spaniard by birth, but a person of

low rank, collected a handful of men, attached to the royal cause,

and although destitute of assistance from the Spaniards, who were

besieged in Puerto Cabello, he found means to raise a large body of

troops in the interior, and seeking the insurgent army commanded by

Bolivar, he fought several battles with them, in all of which his band

was victorious, so that he was enabled to overthrow the new government

established at Caraccas.

This valiant individual, following the career he had so fortunately

begun, dispersed the army of the independents in every direction, but

was killed in storming their last strong-hold, at the moment of victory.

On the arrival of General Morillo he found the province free from the

independent troops, and therefore commenced his march for Carthagena,

joined by the natives of the country who had formed the army of Boves,

and who assisted him materially in taking Carthagena, and re-conquering

the revolted provinces of New Granada.

Castello and Bolivar were at this time the leaders of the independent

forces in this country, but dissensions occurring between them,

Carthagena was supplied with only 2000 troops; the siege lasted from

August to the 5th of December, 1815, when the governor and garrison

evacuated the place, and the royal army took possession of it, but 3000

persons perished through famine during this siege.

General Morillo now advanced through the provinces of New Granada to

the city of Santa Fé de Bogota, which place he entered in June, 1816,

remaining in it till the following November: during his stay the

leaders of the insurgents, and all who had been criminally engaged,

were imprisoned, shot or exiled. From this period Bolivar, who had gone

to Jamaica, turned his attention again towards Venezuela, planned an

expedition to assist the people of Margarita, and joining Borion, an

affluent native of Curaçoa, assembled the emigrants from Venezuela, and

part of the garrison which had evacuated Carthagena.

Borion was appointed commander of the naval forces, and sailing from

Aux-Cayes they landed in the beginning of May 1816, at La Margarita.

From this island Bolivar proceeded to Campano, five leagues west of the

city of Cumana, of which he dispossessed the royal forces, and having

armed many light troops who joined him, again embarked and proceeded to

Ocumare; landing at this port he issued a proclamation, enfranchising

all slaves, but was soon afterwards defeated by the royalists in a

severe and hard fought action, after which he retired to Aux-Cayes,

from whence he again brought new reinforcements in December 1816, to

Margarita. On this island he published another proclamation, convoking

the representatives of Venezuela to a general congress, and went

afterwards to Barcelona, where he organised a provisional government.

At this place he repulsed the royalists under Generals Real and

Morales, with great loss, but in the month following, on the 7th of

April, 1817, the city of Barcelona was taken by the Spanish troops,

and Morillo received an addition of 1600 men from Spain, in the month

of May; since this period the actions between the Spanish troops and

the insurgents have been frequent; the congress of Venezuela has been

established by Bolivar, and again overthrown by Morillo; the islanders

of Margarita have repulsed the Spanish forces, and at this moment

the army of the Independents is concentrated near the shores of the

Orinoco, and the Spanish troops are in possession of the capital and

all the principal towns.

While these events were going on in Caraccas, the congress of Buenos

Ayres declared its independence. The town of Monte Video was taken

possession of by the Portuguese, and the march of insurrection spread

itself into the remote government of Chili. Mina, who had been

concerned in the Caraccas revolution, undertook an expedition against

New Spain, in which, after sometimes repulsing, and at others being

repulsed, by the Spanish generals, he was at last taken prisoner and

beheaded at Mexico.

The United States have ejected the adventurers who had established

themselves on Amelia Island in the government of East Florida, and it

appears, that the revolutionary cause is only successful in Buenos

Ayres and Venezuela, in both which provinces, it cannot however be

said to be established, as a large Spanish army occupies part of one,

and the Portuguese troops have partial possession of the other. In

New Granada, Florida, Quito, Peru and Mexico, the insurgents have

very little sway, and in the islands of Puerto Rico and Cuba they are

unknown; consequently the colonies of Spain, so far from being wrested

from her, are still under her dominion; and it appears extremely

probable, that they will remain so.

Recurring to the subject of the kingdom, which it is the primary object

of this section to describe, we must now treat of its capital, a city

which, from its former as well as from its present importance, may well

justify its pretensions to be the metropolis of Spanish South America.

_Capital._--LIMA is situated in 12° 2' 25" south latitude, and 77°

7' 15" west longitude, in the spacious and fertile valley of Rimac,

whence by corruption, the name Lima is derived. This city was formerly

called Ciudad de los Reyes, and was founded by Pizarro, on the 18th of

January, 1535. The name of the valley was derived from that of an idol

of the Peruvians, who was called by way of distinction Rimac, "he who

speaks." This city is an archbishopric, the rental of which is valued

at 30,000 dollars.

The scite of Lima is very advantageous, as it commands a view of the

whole valley in which it lies. A river of the same name washes the

walls of the town, over which there is an elegant and spacious bridge

of stone. On the north are the vast mountains of the Cordillera of the

Andes, from which some branches extend towards the city; those of St.

Christoval and Amancaes being the nearest. At the end of the bridge is

a gate of noble architecture which leads into a spacious square, the

largest in the place, and beautifully ornamented. In the centre of this

square is a fine fountain with bronze figures; the form of the city

is triangular, its base lying along the banks of the river. This base

is two-thirds of a league in length, whilst the perpendicular may be

estimated at two-fifths of a league, the whole being surrounded with a

brick wall, flanked with thirty-four bastions; it is entered by seven

gates and three posterns. Opposite to the river is the suburb of St.

Lazarus; and its streets, like those of the city, are broad, regular,

parallel, and crossed at right angles; they are also well paved, and

the drains are supplied from the river, thus rendering the place

exceedingly clean. The number of streets has been stated at 355.

Towards the east and west within the walls are many fruit and kitchen

gardens, and most of the principal houses have gardens watered by

canals. The city abounds with churches, chapels, convents, nunneries,

colleges, and hospitals, and it has a noble university founded in 1576.

All the churches are magnificently decorated, and are in general large,

and adorned with paintings of value.

The viceroys of Peru usually reside at Lima and keep their court

there, giving public audience every day, for which purpose there are

three fine rooms in the palace. The tribunals of account, of justice,

of the treasury, &c., are also held there, which, with the royal mint,

the court of the municipal body, and the police, afford employment to

numbers of persons, and render Lima the most lively and magnificent

place in South America.

The viceroy's palace, formerly a fine structure, but which was damaged

by the great earthquake in 1687, the city prison, the archiepiscopal

palace, the council house, and the cathedral, stand in the great

square, and occupy three sides of it.

In the suburbs, as well as in most parts of the city, the houses are

of wood-work, interlaced with wild canes and osiers, both within and

without, plastered over with clay and white washed; the fronts being

painted to imitate stone. Most of the houses are only one story high

with a flat roof, covered on the top with slight materials to keep out

the wind and sun, as it never rains violently in this part of Peru, and

the rafters which support the roofs are carved and decorated within

side, and covered with clay on the outside. This mode of building

has been adopted, in consequence of the destructive effects of the

earthquakes which have so often devastated Lima.

On solemn festivals, or on the entrance of a new viceroy, the riches

and pomp displayed in this city are astonishing, the churches being

loaded with massive plate, consisting of tables, candlesticks, statues

of saints of solid silver, the holy vestments and chalices covered with

gold, diamonds, pearls and precious stones, and even on the common days

of office, the decorations of the churches is richer than can be seen

at the most splendid catholic festival in Europe.

Luxury in dress and splendid retinues are the prevailing passion of

the gentry and people of Lima, so that the public walks and malls are

crowded with carriages. The dress of the ladies is extremely rich;

and even those of low rank never appear without bracelets, rosaries,

and gold images about their necks and arms. The white females are in

general of a middling stature, handsome, of a very fair complexion,

with beautiful dark hair and bright eyes; they are naturally gay,

sprightly and without levity in their outward behaviour, though taxed

with vicious propensities; and all the women of Lima have a great

fondness for music: the dress of the men is also very superb, but they

are said to be in general fonder of gallantry than of following any

useful avocations, though they occasionally show great ardour for the

acquisition of knowledge.

The theatre of Lima is a neat building, but the performers are said to

be very wretched; coffee-houses were only established here in 1771,

cock-fighting and bull-baiting are the favourite amusements of the

populace, who are also greatly addicted to gaming.

In Lima the number of inhabitants has been estimated at 54,000, the

monks and clergy being 1390, the nuns 1580, the Spaniards at 17,200,

with 3200 Indians, and 9000 negroes, the rest being mestizoes and other

castes.

The rich priests, proprietors of estates, military and civil officers,

physicians, lawyers and artizans, compose a body of 19,000, and

the remaining 35,000 are slaves, domestics and labourers; but the

population has declined since the erection of the viceroyalty of La

Plata.

The climate of this city is agreeable, and though the variation of the

four seasons is perceptible, yet they are all moderate; spring begins

in November, winter in June or July, when the south winds cease, and

this season continues, with the intervention of a second spring or

autumn until November; rain is seldom or ever known at Lima, tempests

rarely happen, and the inhabitants are strangers to thunder and

lightning; but they are infested with vermin and insects during the

summer months, and are always subject to the recurrence of earthquakes,

several of which have nearly ruined the city at different times in the

16th, 17th, and 18th centuries; the one which happened in 1746, being

the most tremendous and destructive, and which took place on the 28th

of October at half after ten at night, continuing for many weeks. The

city was nearly destroyed, numbers of the inhabitants perished, and

the port of Callao was submerged by the sea; twenty-four vessels were

lying in the harbour, nineteen of which were sunk, and a frigate, and

three others carried up by the rise of the waves into the country a

considerable distance from the beach; out of 4000 people, the number

which escaped at Callao was only 200, while at Lima 1300 were buried

under the ruins, and numbers wounded and maimed.

In Lima, the most common disorders are malignant, intermittent, and

catarrhous fevers, pleurisies and constipations. The small-pox was

formerly very fatal; but in 1802, a merchant vessel, the _Santo Domingo

de la Calzada_, put into Callao, in a voyage from Spain to Manilla; a

philanthropic individual in Spain had sent some vaccine matter on board

of this ship for the Philippines; but as the small-pox was raging at

that time in Lima, Don M. Unanue, the professor of anatomy, hearing of

this precious cargo, and instantly availing himself of it, vaccinated

his patients, which he performed with the greatest success, and since

that period, the Jennerian system having been followed, the virulence

of the small-pox gives way.

The great wealth of the citizens of Lima is mostly derived from the

mines in the internal provinces, but agricultural pursuits are much

followed, and the pastures in the vicinity feed multitudes of horses,

mules and cattle. The ancient Peruvians had rendered the valley of

Rimac very fertile by intersecting it with small canals, and this

plan has been adopted by the Spaniards who irrigate their spacious

fields of wheat and barley, their meadows, plantations of sugar-cane,

olives, vines, as well as their gardens, which are thus rendered very

productive, but the frequent earthquakes having tended to alter the

good quality of the soil, it consequently requires much care to manage.

Bread, butter, milk, beef, mutton, pork, poultry, &c., are all

excellent in Lima, and the place is plentifully supplied with fish from

the bay of Callao, and the adjacent villages, as well as from the river

Lima. The wines used in this city are generally the produce of Chili

and the southern provinces, from which the brandies are also brought;

most of the European and dried fruits are also supplied by Chili, but

no manufactures are carried on in the place itself, as it depends

entirely on being the emporium of the commerce of Peru with Chili, New

Granada, Guatimala and New Spain.

The port of Lima is _Ballavista_ or _Callao_, the former name being

that of the new town which was founded at the distance of a quarter of

a league from the remains of Callao, which had been totally destroyed

by the earthquake in 1746. At the present port there is a fort named

San Fernando, with a garrison to protect the bay, which, on the

south-west is fenced by a barren island called San Lorenzo. Here all

the vessels anchor about two leagues from Lima; and the harbour of

Callao is one of the finest in the South-Sea, the anchorage being deep,

but the ocean always tranquil, and the largest vessels lying in perfect

safety.

The river _Rimac_ or _Lima_, discharging itself into the sea here,

furnishes an abundant supply of fresh water for the vessels, and every

thing can be procured of which a ship may be in need; as in Callao it

may be said that the productions of the four quarters of the world are

exchanged for each other; the ships from Europe meeting those from the

East Indies, from Africa, and from the northern shores of America.

Callao is situated in 12° 3' 42" south latitude, and 77° 14' west

longitude, at about five English miles distance from the city of Lima.

_INTENDANCY OF TRUXILLO._

This province is the most northerly of those in Peru, it is bounded by

the river Tumbez and Guayaquil, on the north-west; Jaen de Bracamoros

on the north-east; the Lauricocha or Tunguragua on the north; the Rio

Guallaga and Pampas del Sacramento on the east; the Pacific on the

west; and the province of Tarma on the south; containing within its

limits seven jurisdictions; viz. Sana, Piura, Truxillo, Caxamarca,

Chachapoyas, Llulia, and Chiloas and Pataz.

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