VERTICAL LOOMS.

[Illustration: Fig. 13.--Upright or vertical loom. Wilkinson's

_Ancient Egyptians_, London, John Murray. 1st ed., Vol. III., p. 135.]

Apart from the horizontal loom Wilkinson and Robert Hay[C] also

recorded the existence of an illustration of an upright loom, said in

error to be at Eileithyias (El Kab). Wilkinson's copy, Fig. 13, is

more elaborate than that of Hay. Mr. Davies informs me that the

original is not at Eileithyias, but in the tomb of Nefer-hotep at

Thebes. Wilkinson in regard to this illustration quotes the

oft-repeated statement of Herodotus (_circa_ 460-455 B.C.) in

reference to looms in general:--"Other nations make cloth by pushing

the woof upwards, the Egyptians on the contrary, press it down." On

this statement Wilkinson remarks: "This is confirmed by the paintings

which represent the process of making cloth; but at Thebes, a man who

is engaged in making a piece of cloth with a coloured border or

selvedge, appears to push the woof upwards, the cloth being fixed

above him, to the upper part of the frame" [Fig. 13]. But I am unable

to follow Wilkinson in this, for I can find no indication in his

illustration which shows how the beating-in of the weft is

accomplished. From the illustration all one can say is that it might

have been done either way. Wilkinson's illustration is lettered from

_a_ to _p_ but this lettering is not explained by him at all,

excepting in the case of the letter _k_, of which he says: "_k_ is a

shuttle, not thrown, but put in with the hand. It had a hook at the

end ..." and he proceeds to refer to the drawing elsewhere of the

horizontal loom. He does not show the hooks in his illustration. In

Fig. 14, I give the sketch made by Mr. N. de G. Davies of the remains

of the original from which Wilkinson made his illustration.

[Illustration: Fig. 14.--Drawing by Mr. N. de G. Davies, Jan. 1913, of

an Upright Loom in Tomb 49 at Thebes, belonging to Nefer-hotep, at end

of XVIII. Dynasty, B.C. 1330. Drawn when in a better state by

Wilkinson, Fig. 13, and Hay.]

A more satisfactory drawing of upright looms is that which Mr. N. de

G. Davies has placed at my disposal for reproduction here. I append

his description, Fig. 9. "The picture of men working at two looms is

taken from the tomb of Thot-nefer at Thebes, who was a royal scribe

in the middle of the 18th Dynasty, _circa_ 1425 B.C. In his tomb his

house is shown. He himself sits in the hall, while inside some

servants spin and weave, make bread, store the grain, etc. The roof of

the chambers is supported on pillars, and between two of these the

looms are set up which are here depicted. They are not attached

however, either to the roof or the pillars. Faint sketching lines are

mixed up with the darker reds in which the picture was re-drawn, and

the whole very simply and carelessly executed. I have found it

difficult to make it clear. In my sketch the first faint sketching

outlines appear as lines. The more solid red lines which replaced

these I have 'hatched,' and certain portions including the men's flesh

colour, the stools, the discs I have put in solid black, partly

because they are for the most part more solid and dark red in the

original, and partly to distinguish the portions more clearly from one

another. The horizontal lines which cross the web are very faintly

drawn and almost as good as obliterated by the white paint which had

been put on the web. I have put them in just to show that the bars

were _conceived_ of as passing behind or under the web and concealed

by it.

"The larger loom is worked by two men, the smaller by one man only.

The looms consist of an oblong frame A set up on two stones B. The

warp is attached to the warp beam C on top and the breast beam D at

the bottom. The threads of the warp are not shown, no difference being

made between any woven part and the warp threads; to all is given one

smear of white paint. Two discs E are seen hanging against the frame

posts, one on each side, the earlier sketch showing a larger disc than

the final drawing in dark red.

"Two slender laze rods F are shown on the large loom and heavy bars G,

H, lower down; a somewhat similar laze rod and beams are also shown on

the smaller loom.

"The weavers sit on benches with their backs to the spectator. The

artist has not dared to draw a back view of their heads, but has

turned each man's head to the right to show a profile. They are

holding a heavy looking rod which looks like a 'beater-in.' One would

expect to see a shuttle but perhaps this was too small an object for

so rough a picture--perhaps the man at the smaller loom holds an

exaggerated shuttle L in his right hand.

"The lines M seen alongside the framework are the faint red sketch

lines _not_ cords. The diagonal line N on the left I do not

understand, it does not seem an accidental one.

"On the left hand of the two looms the original shows a man spinning

coarse thread into finer(?) using two spindles at once; the threads

pass through rings fixed in the ceiling as in a picture at Beni Hasan.

Behind him two girls are breaking up the flax and two others are

making coarse threads of the fibres, almost exactly like those in the

tomb of Daga (No. 103) a couple of hundred yards away."

To this description of Mr. Davies I would like to add a word about

the discs E. Wilkinson indicates these as rings apparently joining the

horizontal beam to the post of the frame, the form of the ring being

arrived at as explained by Mr. Davies by the original outline of the

sketch having been made larger than the final drawing of the circle,

or disc, and not obliterated. In Mr. Davies' drawing these discs hang

on or are fixed on to the uprights only, and I am inclined to think

they represent balls of weft thread hanging up in the same way as we

see whole rows of coloured balls hanging on the looms of Persian

rugmakers, and as can be seen on an Indian rug loom in Bankfield

Museum.

It is also very clear that these Egyptian vertical looms are very

different from the Greek looms in so far as we know anything about

them. The Greek looms had an upper beam only and the warp threads were

bunched at the lower end and weighted with metal or clay balls to keep

them taut, Fig. 15. The _individual_ warp threads were not weighted;

they were bunched and then weighted. The pyramidal shaped clay warp

weights found in Egypt are I understand considered by Egyptologists to

belong to the Roman period, but in the Manchester University Museum

there is a mud article which Miss M. A. Murray describes as a warp

weight, Fig. 17, so that it is possible vertical looms with warp

weights may yet be forthcoming as an Egyptian and not a foreign

industrial tool. But Dr. H. R. Hall informs me this weight was

probably found in the ruins of houses where AEgean pottery was found

and hence it is probably a temporary warp weight of those people and

not an Egyptian article.

[Illustration: Fig. 15.--Greek loom with spool and warp weights.

Illustration on a skyphos (van Branteghem vase in the Ashmolean

Museum, Oxford). From H. B. Walters' paper on _Odysseus & Kirke_ on a

Boeotian vase, Jour. Hellenic Studies, 1892-3 XIII. p. 81.]

Since writing the above Mr. N. de G. Davies has very kindly sent me on

a new set of illustrations, Fig. 16, of which he says; "My attention

was called to the scene by Dr. Alan Gardiner. The scenes which

represent the preparation of the flax and the stretching of the warp

are almost replicas of those in the tomb of Daga of the Middle

Kingdom, so far as we can judge, while the pictures of the looms

resemble closely those in the tombs of Thot-nefer and Nefer-hotep. The

work is done by both men and women. Men prepare the flax while women

stretch the warp. Men mostly work the loom, either singly or with a

companion. But in one case a woman is seen at work at one of the

upright looms. She is shewn sitting sideways on the low bench and is

not pictured in a back view with widely spread legs like the men.

Unfortunately the work is so slovenly and so much injured that few

exact outlines can be secured, and hence all detail is insecure.

There are also superfluous lines in red colour which confuse the

picture. The tomb is Ramesside in date (_circa_ 1200 B.C.) The

inscription over the seated man is too broken to be read."

[Illustration: Fig. 16a.--Weavers at work as represented in the Tomb

of Nefer-ronpet, Superintendent of Weavers at Thebes. Date about 1200

B.C. From a drawing by Mr. N. de G. Davies.]

[Illustration: Fig. 16b.--Weavers at work as represented in the Tomb

of Nefer-ronpet, Superintendent of Weavers at Thebes. Date about 1200

B.C. From a drawing by Mr. N. de G. Davies.]

The drawings appear to confirm generally what we have gathered from

Mr. Davies' previous illustration, Fig. 9.

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