_The Journal of Mr. Philip De Lancaster._
INDD
“Dear Sister!”
“When I arrived at Milford Haven I found a vessel bound to Liverpool, of
which I availed myself for a passage, as travelling in rough roads is
extremely troublesome. The master of the vessel was a very affable and
entertaining gentleman, and having been three times on a slaving voyage
to the coast of Africa, had acquired a perfect knowledge both of men and
manners.
“When we dropped anchor at Liverpool, the crowd and hurry on the quay
appeared to me to be such, that I held it best to keep quiet in the
cabin of the brig, that brought me thither. Being in no capacity for
making enquiries in my own person about a passage to the South of
France, I did not like to manifest to my friendly captain a desire to
quit his company, which had become so agreeable to me; I thereupon came
to a determination of taking my chance with him, and when I understood
his destination to be for the fourth time to the coast of Africa, I
considered that one warm climate was like another, and warmth being what
I was in search of for Mrs. De Lancaster, he assured me that I should
find it there in perfection; this being ascertained I engaged for the
voyage, avoiding thereby all further trouble either to myself or him
about a matter of such absolute indifference.
“It cost some time to ship the cargo he was taking out with him, and
gave me some annoyance whilst his crew were stowing it, as they are in
the habit of accompanying their work with certain noises, far from
melodious, and intelligible only to themselves. I had however a faculty
of sleeping pretty generally through it all, which made time, heavy at
the best, pass off very tolerably, till we set sail and took leave of
land and all its troublesome concerns. I understood from the people that
went on shore, that the town of Liverpool would have been highly worth
my seeing, and I have every reason to believe their information was
correct.
“We commenced our voyage in pleasant weather; the captain’s conversation
was on many points entirely new and very edifying on that account. He
kept a liberal table, particularly in the article of salt-fish, of which
he had a considerable cargo on board; but when he had no longer a
supply of eggs to recommend his salt-fish, I must confess I was
sometimes puzzled how to make a dinner, especially as his soup had a
taste, to which I had not as yet familiarized my palate.
“During our passage through the Bay of Biscay I perceived the vessel to
have considerable motion, but there is a lulling property in the
vacillation of a hammock, that promotes repose.
“One day, when I was told we were off the coast of Portugal, and I began
to inhale odours from the shore, that were infinitely preferable to
those of the salt-fish in the ship, I had a curiosity for the first time
to visit the accommodations below, when I was tempted to ask my friend
the captain for what purpose he had parted off a portion of his hold
with iron gratings like those of a prison, and also why he had provided
such a collection of handcuffs, fetters and other instruments, that
seemed calculated both for torture and confinement.
“He was a very communicative man, and did not hesitate to inform me,
that being a trader in negro slaves, it was necessary for him to be well
stored with all those conveniences for security’s sake; For how else,
said he, could I be sure that those savages, who have no understanding
of the happiness in store for them, would not rise upon us and cut all
our throats?--Though I immediately saw all the force of his reasoning, I
was a little staggered by the nature of his intelligence; and this I
think it probable that he perceived, for he was pleased to say, that,
being bound in the first instance for the Tagus, he would set me down
with his cargo of salt fish at Lisbon, if I had the least objection to
proceeding any further. I thanked him for his civility, and candidly
confessed that although I could have no objection to the removal of his
salt fish, I should think it ill exchanged for his cargo of slaves. I
accordingly accepted his alternative of leaving me at Lisbon; where,
though I should much regret the loss of his society, I might avail
myself of the opportunity of visiting the famous aqueduct of Alcantara,
of which I had heard so wonderful an account, and was anxious to enjoy
the sight.
“The captain acknowledged that he had heard there was such a thing to be
seen in the near neighbourhood of Lisbon, but as he had no particular
taste for sights of that sort, he had not troubled himself to go out of
his way for it: he was pleased however in the politest manner to repeat
his offer of setting me down at Lisbon; observing to me with great
satisfaction, that as we were now happily arrived within the mouth of
the river we had nothing further to apprehend; for he could assure me we
were fairly out of all possibility of mischance, being in the track of
the safest navigation in the world.
“In the very moment whilst this experienced navigator was cheering me
and himself with these pleasant assurances, a sudden shock of the vessel
threw him from his balance, and catching hold of me as he was falling,
we came together upon the deck with a considerable degree of violence.
As he fell upon me he had the advantage of being first upon his legs,
which he employed with all speed in rushing forwards to the forecastle,
whilst I was endeavouring to save myself from further bruises; for now
a cry ran through the ship, that we were stranded on a rock, and
sinking bodily. Of this information I had soon no reason to doubt, as
the water rushed in with great impetuosity. The crew were eagerly
employed in getting out the boat; but as I was persuaded that they, who
were at the trouble of launching, would naturally be the first to make
use of it, I persisted to keep my post, being resolved not to disgrace
the character of a true De Lancaster by betraying the least symptom of
impatience or alarm.
“When I had stayed till the treading over-head had ceased, and the
captain along-side was calling upon me by name to come on board the boat
and save myself, or stay where I was and be drowned, I thought it
behoved me to avail myself of an alternative, so fairly stated, though
my compliance with his offer of rescuing me from the sinking ship was
attended with no small degree of trouble and inconvenience, for I now
perceived myself to be sorely bruised.
“I exerted myself to the utmost in getting into the boat, yet my efforts
being not sufficiently adroit to satisfy the gentlemen, who were eager
to push off, I heard myself saluted with a general volley of oaths and
ludicrous buffooneries allusive to my awkwardness, which I can truly
aver were the only uncivil words, that I received from either captain or
crew, whilst I had the pleasure of sailing with them.
“The boat, in which I was, belonged to one of our Lisbon pacquets, that
had the humanity to stop her course and assist us in our distress. On
board this charitable ship I was at length conveyed, and was agreably
surprised to find myself thus unexpectedly amongst my friends and
neighbours; young Sir David Owen and his amiable mother being passengers
and bound to Lisbon. To the humanity of these friends I am indebted for
the comforts I am now enjoying in an excellent hotel on an eminence
called Buenos Ayres, from whence, if my contusions allowed me to get out
of my bed, I might enjoy a beautiful view of the town and river, and in
which, were it not for the annoyance of the flies and more domestic
vermin, I might assuage my pains with the luxury of sleep; but this,
when more familiarized to the customs of these insects, I hope still to
enjoy.
“There has been another slight shock of an earthquake yesterday, but as
I was in my bed, it did not disturb me near so much as that of the
ship, when she ran upon the rock.
“As soon as I regain the use of my limbs, I shall look out for a
suitable abode for Mrs. De Lancaster in this delicious place, where I
promise myself a high entertainment in surveying the dilapidations and
disorders occasioned by the great earthquake, which has made the town a
heap of interesting ruins.
“I have written you a long letter, so, with my duty to my father and
regards to all at home, I conclude myself, dear sister,
“Your very faithful servant
and loving brother,
“PHILIP DE LANCASTER.”