LIPPINCOTT'S MAGAZINE
OF
_POPULAR LITERATURE AND SCIENCE_.
Vol XII, No. 31.
OCTOBER, 1873.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
FROM PARIS TO MARLY BY WAY OF THE RHINE [Illustrated] By EDWARD STRAHAN.
IV.--A Day In Strasburg.
FROM THE POTOMAC TO THE OHIO. [Illustrated]
AN EPISODE IN THE LIFE OF A STRONG-MINDED WOMAN By MARSHALL NEIL.
THE KING OF BAVARIA. by E.E.
ON THE CHURCH STEPS By SARAH C. HALLOWELL.
Chapter X.
Chaper XI.
Chapter XII.
A STRANGE LAND AND A PECULIAR PEOPLE By WILL WALLACE HARNEY.
SIMILITUDE By EMMA LAZAROS.
OUR HOME IN THE TYROL [Illustrated] By MARGARET HOWITT.
Chapter XI.
Chapter XII.
UNSAID By CHARLOTTE F. BATES.
LAURENTINUM By A.A.B.
A PRINCESS OF THULE By WILLIAM BLACK.
Chapter XVI.--Exchanges.
Chapter XVII.--Guesses.
Chapter XVIII.--Sheila's Strategem.
THE LAST OF THE IDYLLS By F.F. ELMS.
OUR MONTHLY GOSSIP.
An Evening In Calcutta By W.H.S.
No Danbury For Me By SARSFIELD YOUNG.
Another Ghost By S.C. CLARKE.
NOTES.
LITERATURE OF THE DAY.
Books Received.
ILLUSTRATIONS
TEARING UP THE PONTOON BRIDGE.
STRASBURG CATHEDRAL IN FLAMES.
THE HIGHEST SPIRE IN EUROPE.
THE GREAT CLOCK.
CHURCH OF SAINT THOMAS.
BEAUTY'S QUINTESSENCE.
VOICI LE SABRE!
STREET OF THE GREAT ARCADES.
BEER-GARDEN OF THE DAUPHIN.
SUCKLED IN A CREED OUTWORN.
THE BLESSING OF THE BÂB.
THE BOTANIST.
VIEW NEAR ANTIETAM, MARYLAND.
POTOMAC TUNNEL, NEAR HARPER'S FERRY.
BATTLE-GROUNDS OF THE POTOMAC VALLEY.
SCENE AMONG THE MARYLAND ALLEGHANIES.
SCENE AT CUMBERLAND NARROWS.
CLIFF VIEW, CUMBERLAND NARROWS.
VALLEY FALLS, WEST VIRGINIA.
FISH CREEK VALLEY, WEST VIRGINIA.
CHEAT RIVER VALLEY AND MOUNTAINS.
CHEAT RIVERS NARROWS.
SCHLOSS SCHWALBEN.
THE NEW HYPERION.
FROM PARIS TO MARLY BY WAY OF THE RHINE.
IV.--A DAY IN STRASBURG.
[Illustration: TEARING UP THE PONTOON BRIDGE.]
Behold me, then, with five hours around my neck, like so many
millstones, in Strasburg, on the abjured Rhine! Had I not vowed never
to visit that bewitched current again? Was it not by Rhine-bank that
I learned to quote the minnesingers and to unctuate my hair? From her
owl-tower did not old Frau Himmelauen use to observe me, my cane, and
my curls, and my gloves? Did not her gossips compare me to Wilhelm
Meister? And so, when he thought he was ripe, the innocent Paul
Flemming must needs proceed to pour his curls, his songs and his love
into the lap of Mary Ashburton; and the discreet siren responded, "You
had better go back to Heidelberg and grow: you are not the Magician."
Yet before that little disaster of my calf period I sighed for the
Rhine: I used its wines more freely than was perhaps good for me, and
when the smoke-colored goblet was empty would declare that if I were a
German I should be proud of the grape-wreathed river too. At Bingen
I once sat up to behold the bold outline of the banks crested with
ruins, which in the morning proved to be a slated roof and chimneys.
And when at Heidelberg I saw the Neckar open upon the broad Rhine
plain like the mouth of a trumpet, I felt inspired, and built
every evening on my table a perfect cathedral of slim, spire-shaped
bottles--sunny pinnacles of Johannisberger.
And now, decoyed to the Rhine by a puerile conspiracy, how could I
best get the small change for my five hours?
[Illustration: STRASBURG CATHEDRAL IN FLAMES.]
Should I sulk like a bear in the parlor of the Maison Rouge until the
departure of the Paris train, or should I explore the city? Some wave
from my fond, foolish past flowed over me and filled me with desire.
I felt that I loved the Rhine and the Rhine cities once more. And where
could I better retie myself to those old pilgrim habits than in this
citadel of heroism, a place sanctied by recent woes, a city proved
by its endurance through a siege which even that of Paris hardly
surpassed? One draught, then, from the epic Rhine! To-morrow, at
Marly, I could laugh over it all with Hohenfels.
The Münster was before me--the highest tower in Europe, if we except
the hideous cast-iron abortion at Rouen. I recollected that in my
younger days I had been defrauded of my fair share of tower-climbing.
Hohenfels had a saying that most travelers are a sort of children, who
need to touch all they see, and who will climb to every broken tooth
of a castle they find on their way, getting a tiresome ascent and hot
sunshine for their pains. "I trust we are wiser," he would observe,
so unanswerably that I passed with him up the Rhine quite, as I may
express it, on the ground floor.
I marched to the cathedral, determined to ascend, and when I saw the
look of it changed my mind.
The sacristan, in fact, advised me not to go up after he had taken my
fee and obtained a view of my proportions over the tube of his
key, which he pretended to whistle into. We sat down together as I
recovered my breath, after which I wandered through the nave with
my guide, admiring the statue of the original architect, who stands
looking at the interior--a kind of Wren "circumspecting" his own
monument. At high noon the twelve apostles come out from the famous
horologe and take up their march, and chanticleer, on one of the
summits of the clock-case, opens his brazen throat and crows loud
enough to fill the farthest recesses of the church with his harsh
alarum.
A portly citizen was talking to the sacristan. "I hear many objections
to that bird, sir," he remarked to me, "from fastidious tourists: one
thinks that a peacock, spreading its jewels by mechanism, would have
a richer effect. Another says that a swan, perpetually wrestling with
its dying song, would be more poetical. Others, in the light of late
events, would prefer a phoenix."
The dress of the stout citizen announced a sedentary man rather than a
cosmopolitan. He had a shirt-front much hardened with starch; a white
waistcoat, like an alabaster carving, which pushed his shirt away
up round his ears; and a superb bluebottle-colored coat, with metal
buttons. It was the costume of a stay-at-home, and I learned afterward
that he was a local professor of geography and political science--the
first by day, the last at night only in beer-gardens and places of
resort.
[Illustration: THE HIGHEST SPIRE IN EUROPE.]
"Nay," I said, "the barnyard bird is of all others the fittest for a
timepiece: he chants the hours for the whole country-side, and an old
master of English song has called him Nature's 'crested clock.'"
"With all deference," said the bourgeois, "I would still have a
substitute provided for yonder cock. I would set up the Strasburg
goose. Is he not our emblem, and is not our commerce swollen by the
inflation of the _foie gras_? In one compartment I would show him fed
with sulphur-water to increase his biliary secretion; another might
represent his cage, so narrow that the pampered creature cannot even
turn round on his stomach for exercise; another division might be
anatomical, and present the martyr opening his breast, like some
tortured saint, to display his liver, enlarged to the weight of three
pounds; while the apex might be occupied by the glorified, gander in
person, extending his neck and commenting on the sins of the Strasburg
pastry-cooks with a cutting and sardonic hiss."
You have not forgotten, reader, the legend of the old clock?
Many years ago there lived here an aged and experienced mechanic.
Buried in his arts, he forgot the ways of the world, and promised his
daughter to his gallant young apprentice, instead of to the hideous
old magistrate who approached the maiden with offers of gold and
dignity. One day the youth and damsel found the unworldly artist
weeping for joy before his completed clock, the wonder of the earth.
Everybody came to see it, and the corporation bought it for the
cathedral. The city of Basel bespoke another just like it. This
order aroused the jealousy of the authorities, who tried to make
the mechanic promise that he would never repeat his masterpiece
for another town. "Heaven gave me not my talents to feed your vain
ambition," said the man of craft: "the men of Basel were quicker to
recognize my skill than you were. I will make no such promise." Upon
that the rejected suitor, who was among the magistrates, persuaded his
colleagues to put out the artist's eyes. The old man heard his fate
with lofty fortitude, and only asked that he might suffer the sentence
in the presence of his darling work, to which he wished to give a
few final strokes. His request was granted, and he gazed long at the
splendid clock, setting its wonders in motion to count off the last
remaining moments of his sight. "Come, laggard," said the persecuting
magistrate, who had brought a crowd of spectators, "you are taxing the
patience of this kind audience." "But one touch remains," said the old
mechanic, "to complete my work;" and he busied himself a moment among
the wheels. While he suffered the agonies of his torture a fearful
whir was heard from the clock: the weights tumbled crashing to
the floor as his eyes fell from their sockets. He had removed the
master-spring, and his revenge was complete. The lovers devoted
their lives to the comfort of the blind clockmaker, and the wicked
magistrate was hooted from society. The clock remained a ruin until
1842, when parts of it were used in the new one constructed by
Schwilgué.
[Illustration: THE GREAT CLOCK.]
I found my bluebottle professor to be a Swiss, thirty years resident
in the city, very accessible and talkative, and, like every citizen by
adoption, more patriotic than even the native-born.
"It was a cheerless time for me, sir," said he as we contemplated
together the façade of the church, "when I saw that spire printed in
black against the flames of the town."
I begged frankly for his reminiscences.
"The bombardment of 1870," said the professor, "was begun purposely,
in contempt of the Bonapartist tradition, on the 15th of August,
the birthday of Napoleon. At half-past eleven at night, just as the
fireworks are usually set off on that evening, a shell came hissing
over the city and fell upon the Bank of France, crushing through the
skylight and shivering the whole staircase within: the bombardment
that time lasted only half an hour, but it found means, after much
killing and ruining among the private houses, to reach the buildings
of the Lyceum, where we had placed the wounded from the army of
Woerth. While the city was being touched off in every direction, like
a vast brush heap, we had to take these poor victims down into the
cellars."
"Do you think the bombs were purposely so directed?" I asked.
"Don't talk to me of stray shots!" said the burgher, hotly enough.
"The enemy was better acquainted with the city than we were ourselves,
and his fire was of a precision that extorted our admiration more than
once. Cannons planted in Kehl sent their shells high over the citadel,
like blows from a friend. An artillery that, after the third shot,
found the proper curve and bent the cross on the cathedral, cannot
plead extenuating circumstances and stray shots."
"Was the greatest damage done on that first night?"
[Illustration: CHURCH OF SAINT THOMAS.]
"Ah no! The bombardment was addressed to us as an argument, proceeding
by degrees, and always in a _crescendo_: after the 15th there was
silence until the 18th; after the 18th, silence up to the 23d. The
grand victim of the 23d, you know, was the city library, where lay
the accumulations of centuries of patient learning--the mediæval
manuscripts, the _Hortus deliciarum_ of Herrade of Landsberg, the
monuments of early printing, the collections of Sturm. Ah! when
we gathered around our precious reliquary the next day and saw its
contents in ashes, amid a scene of silence, of people hurrying away
with infants and valuable objects, of firemen hopelessly playing on
the burned masterpieces, there was one thought that came into
every mind--one parallel! It was Omar the caliph and the library of
Alexandria."
"And you imagine that this offence to civilization was quite
voluntary?" I argued with some doubt.
"It is said that General Werder acted under superior orders. But, sir,
you must perceive that in these discretionary situations there is no
such dangerous man as the innocent executant, the martinet, the person
of routine, the soldier stifled in his uniform. I saw Werder after the
capitulation. A little man, lean and bilious. Such was the opponent
who reversed for us successively, like the premisses of an argument,
the bank, the library, the art-museum, the theatre, the prefecture,
the arsenal, the palace of justice, not to speak of our churches. A
man like that was quite capable of replying, as he did, to a request
that he would allow a safe-conduct for non-combatants, that the
presence of women and children was an element of weakness to the
fortress of which he did not intend to deprive it.' The night
illuminated by our burning manuscripts was followed by the day which
witnessed the conflagration of the cathedral. Look at that noble
front, sir, contemplating us with the hoary firmness of six hundred
years! You would think it a sad experience to see it, as I have seen
it, crowned with flames which leaped up and licked the spire, while
the copper on the roof curled up like paper in the heat; and to hear,
as I heard, the poor beadles and guards, from the height of yonder
platform, calling the city to the aid of its cathedral. The next day
the mighty church, now so imperfectly restored, was a piteous sight.
The flames had gone out for want of fuel. We could see the sky through
holes in the roof. The organ-front was leaning over, pierced with
strange gaps; the clock escaped as by miracle; and the mighty saints,
who had been praying for centuries in the stained windows, were
scattered upon the floor. On the 25th the systematic firing of the
faubourgs began, and the city was filled with the choking smell of
burning goods: on the 28th the citadel was kindled."
[Illustration: BEAUTY'S QUINTESSENCE.]
"And what opposition," I naturally demanded, "were you able to make to
all this? I believe your forces were greatly shortened?"
"We were as short as you can think, sir. Most of the garrison had
been withdrawn by MacMahon. The soldiers still among us were miserably
demoralized by the entrance of the fugitives from Woerth. Our defence
was the strangest of mixtures. The custom-house officers were armed
and mobilized: the naval captain Dupetit-Thouars happened to be in
the walls, with some of the idle marine. Colonel Fiévée, with his
pontoneers, hurriedly tore up the bridge of boats leading over to
Kehl, and united himself with the garrison. From the outbreak of the
war we civilians had been invited to form a garde nationale, but never
was there a greater farce. We were asked to choose our own grades, and
when I begged to be made colonel, they inquired if I would not prefer
to be lieutenant or adjutant. Most of us, those at least who had voted
against the imperial candidates, never received a gun. Our artillery,
worthy of the times of Louis XIV., scolded in vain from the ramparts
against the finest cannons in the world, and we were obliged to watch
the Prussian trenches pushing toward the town, and to hear the bullets
beginning to fall where at first were only bombs."
"The capitulation was then imminent."
"There were a few incidents in the mean time. The deputation from
Switzerland, of ever-blessed memory, entered the city on the eleventh
of September. Angels from heaven could not have been more welcome. You
know that a thousand of our inhabitants passed over into Switzerland
under conduct of the delegate from Berne, Colonel Büren, and that they
were received like brothers. From Colonel Büren also we learned for
the first time about Sedan, the disasters of Bazaine and MacMahon, and
the hopelessness of the national cause. We learned that, while they
were crowning with flowers the statue of our city in Paris, they had
no assistance but handsome words to send us. Finally, we learned
the proclamation of the French republic--a republic engendered in
desolation, and so powerless to support its distant provinces! We too
had our little republican demonstration, and on the 20th of September
the prefect they had sent us from Paris, M. Valentin, came dashing in
like a harlequin, after running the gauntlet of a thousand dangers,
and ripped out of his sleeve his official voucher from Gambetta. Alas!
we were a republic for only a week, but that week of fettered freedom
still dwells like an elixir in some of our hearts. For eight days I, a
born Switzer, saw the Rhine a republican river."
"Give me your hand, sir!" I cried, greatly moved. "You are talking to
a republican. I am, or used to be, a citizen of free America!"
"I am happy to embrace you," said the burgher; and I believe he was on
the point of doing it, literally as well as figuratively. "I, for my
part, whatever they make of me, am at least an Alsatian. But I am half
ashamed to talk to an American. On the 29th I went to see our troops
evacuate the city by the Faubourg National. I found myself elbow to
elbow in the throng with the consul from the United States: never in
my life shall I forget the indignant surprise of your compatriot."
"Why should our consul be indignant at disaster?" I demanded.
[Illustration: VOICI LE SABRE!]
"Why, sir, the throng that rolled toward the grave Prussian troops was
composed of desperadoes inflamed with wine, flourishing broken guns
and stumps of sabres, and insulting equally, with many a drunken oath,
the conquerors and our own loyal general Uhrich. The American consul,
blushing with shame for our common humanity, said, 'This is the second
time I have watched the capitulation of an army. The first time it was
the soldiers of General Lee, who yielded to the Northern troops. Those
brave Confederates came toward us silent and dignified, bearing arms
reversed, as at a funeral. We respected them as heroes, while here--'
But I cannot repeat to you, sir, what your representative proceeded
to add. That revolting sight," continued my informant, "was the last
glimpse we had of France our protector. When we returned to the city a
Prussian band played German airs to us at the foot of Kleber's statue.
We are Teutonized now. At least," concluded the burgher, taking me by
the shoulders to hiss the words through my ears in a safe corner, "we
are Germans officially. But I, for my part, am Alsatian for ever and
for ever!"
[Illustration: STREET OF THE GREAT ARCADES.]
Greatly delighted to have encountered so near a witness and so minute
a chronicler of the disasters of the town, I invited the professor
to accompany me in exploring it, my interest having vastly increased
during his recital; but he pleaded business, and, shaking both my
hands and smiling upon me out of a sort of moulding formed around his
face by his shirt-collars, dismissed me. So, then, once more, with a
hitch to my tin box, I became a lonely lounger. I viewed the church of
Saint Thomas, the public place named after Kleber, who was born here,
some of the markets and a beer establishment. In the church of Saint
Thomas I examined the monument to Marshal Saxe, by Pigalle. I should
have expected to see a simple statue of the hero in the act
of breaking a horseshoe or rolling up a silver plate into a
bouquet-holder, according to the Guy-Livingstone habits in which he
appears to have passed his life, and was more surprised than edified
at sight of the large allegorical family with which the sculptor has
endowed him. In the same church I had the misfortune to see in
the boxes a pair of horrible mummies, decked off with robes and
ornaments--a count of Nassau-Saarwerden and his daughter, according to
the custodian--an unhappy pair who, having escaped our common doom of
corruption by some physical aridity or meagreness, have been compelled
to leave their tombs and attitudinize as works of art. In Kleber's
square I saw the conqueror of Heliopolis, excessively pigeon-breasted,
dangling his sabre over a cowering little figure of Egypt, and looking
around in amazement at the neighboring windows: in fact, Kleber
began his career as an architect, and there were solecisms in the
surrounding structure to have turned a better balanced head than
his. In the markets I saw peasants with red waistcoats and flat faces
shaded with triangles of felt, and peasant-girls bareheaded, with a
gilded arrow apparently shot through their brains. I traversed the
Street of the Great Arcades, and saw the statue of Gutenberg, of whom,
as well as of Peter Schöffer, the natives seem to be proud, though
they were but type-setters. Finally, in the Beer-hall, that of the
dauphin, I tasted a thimble-ful of inimitable beer, the veritable beer
of Strasburg. Already, at half-past eight on that fine May morning,
I persuaded myself that I had seen everything, so painful had my feet
become by pounding over the pavements.
My friend the engineer had agreed to breakfast with me at the hotel.
When I entered the dining-room with the intention of waiting for him,
I found two individuals sitting at table. One was no other than the
red-nosed Scotchman, the Eleusinian victim whom I had watched
through the bottle-rack at Épernay. Of the second I recognized the
architectural back, the handsomely rolled and faced blue coat and the
marble volutes of his Ionic shirt-collar: it was my good friend of the
cathedral. Every trace of his civic grief had disappeared, and he wore
a beaming banquet-room air, though the tear of patriotism was hardly
dry upon his cheek.
As I paused to dispose of my accoutrements the red nose was saying,
"Yes, my dear sir, since yesterday I am a Mason. I have the honor," he
pursued, "to be First Attendant Past Grand. It will be a great thing
for me at Edinburgh. Burns, I believe, was only Third Assistant,
Exterior Lodge: the Rank, however, in his opinion, was but the
guinea's stamp. But the advantages of Masonry are met with everywhere.
Already in the train last night I struck the acquaintance of a fine
fellow, a Mason like myself."
"Allow me to ask," said the cheerful bluebottle, "how you knew him for
a Mason like yourself?"
"I'll tell you. I was unable to sleep, because, you see, I had
to drink Moët for my initiation: as I am unaccustomed to anything
livelier than whisky, it unnerved me. To pass the time I went softly
over the signals."
"What signals, if I may be so indiscreet?"
"Number one, you scratch the nose, as if to chase a fly; number two,
you put your thumb in your mouth; number three--"
"H'm!" said the professor doubtfully, "those are singular
instructions, scratching the nose and sucking the thumb. It strikes
me they have been teaching you nursery signals rather than Masonry
signals."
[Illustration: BEER-GARDEN OF THE DAUPHIN.]
"My good friend," said the Scot with extreme politeness, yet not
without dignity, "you cannot understand it, because you were not
present. I received a Light which burned my eyelashes. The sage always
examines a mystery before he decides upon it. My Masonic friend will
be here at breakfast to-day: he promised me. Only wait for him. He
can explain these things better than I, you will see. The little
experiments with our noses and thumbs, you understand, are
symbols--Thummim and Urim, or something of that kind."
"Or else nonsense. You have been quizzed, I fear."
The North Briton bridled his head, knitted his brows and pushed back
his chair; then, after a moment of pregnant and stormy silence, he
turned suddenly around to me, who was enjoying the comedy--"Hand me
the cheese."
To be taken for a waiter amused me. Never in the world would a
domestic have dared to present himself in a hotel habited as I was.
I was in the same clothes with which I had left Passy the morning
previous: my coat was peppered with dust, my linen bruised and dingy,
my tie was nodding doubtfully over my right shoulder. A waiter in my
condition would have been kicked out without arrears of wages.
The professor, looking quickly around, recognized me with a ludicrous
endeavor to relapse into the fiery and outraged patriot. He expended
his temper on the red nose. "Take care whom you speak to," he cried
in a high, portly voice, and pointing to my japanned box, which I had
slung upon a curtain-hook. "Monsieur is not an attaché of the house.
Monsieur is doubtless an herb-doctor."
[Illustration: SUCKLED IN A CREED OUTWORN.]
There are charlatans who pervade the provincial parts of France,
stopping a month at a time in the taverns, and curing the ignorant
with samples according to the old system of _simulacra_--prescribing
kepatica for liver, lentils for the eyes and green walnuts for vapors,
on account of their supposed correspondence to the different organs.
I settled my cravat at the mirror to contradict my resemblance to a
waiter, threw my box into a wine-cooler to dispose of my identity with
the equally uncongenial herbalist, and took a seat. Nodding paternally
to the coat of Prussian blue, I proceeded to order Bordeaux-Léoville,
capon with Tarragon sauce, compôte of nectarines in Madeira jelly--all
superfluous, for I was brutally hungry, and wanted chops and coffee;
but what will not an unsupported candidate for respectability do when
he desires to assert his caste? I was proceeding to ruin myself
in playing the eccentric millionaire when the door opened, giving
entrance to a group of breakfasters.
"There he is--that's the man!" said the homoeopathist, much excited,
and indicating to the blue coat a brisk, capable-looking gentleman of
thirty-two in a neat silver-gray overcoat. The latter, after slightly
touching his nose, nodded to the Scotchman, who in return drew himself
up to his full height and formally wiped his mouth with a napkin, as
if preparing himself for an ovation. Happily, he contented himself
with rubbing his own nose with each hand in turn, and bowing so
profoundly that he appeared ready to break at the knees.
"_Kellner_!" said the silver-gray, making a grand rattle among the
plates and glasses, "some wine! some water! some ink! an omelette! a
writing-pad! a _filet à la Chabrillant_!"
The last-named dish is one which Sciolists are perpetually calling
_filet à la Chateaubriand_, saddling the poetic defender of
Christianity with an invention in cookery of which he was never
capable. I approved the new-comer, who was writing half a dozen notes
with his mouth full, for his nicety in nomenclature: to get the right
term, even in kitchen affairs, shows a reflective mind and tenderness
of conscience. My friend the engineer arrived, and placed himself in
the chair I had turned up beside my own. I was ashamed of the rate at
which I advanced through my capon, but I recollected that Anne Boleyn,
when she was a maid of honor, used to breakfast off a gallon of ale
and a chine of beef.
My canal-maker interrupted me with a sudden appeal. "Listen--listen
yonder," he said, jogging my knee, "it is very amusing. He is in a
high vein to-day."
The gray coat, who had already directed four or five letters, and was
cleaning his middle finger with a lemon over the glass bowl, had just
opened a lofty geographical discussion with the bluebottle. I cannot
express how eagerly I, as a theorist of some pretension in Comparative
Geography, awoke to a discussion in which my dearest opinions were
concerned.
"Geography," the active gentleman was saying as he dipped his finger
in water to attach the flaps of his envelopes--"geography, my dear
professor, is the most neglected of modern sciences. Excuse me if I
take from under you, for a moment, your doctoral chair, and land you
on one of the forms of the primary department. I would ask a simple
elementary question: How many parts of the globe are there?"
"Before the loss of Alsace and Lorraine," said the professor with
plaintive humor, "I always reckoned six."
"Very well: on this point we agree."
"Six!" said the Scotchman in great surprise. "You are liberal: I make
but five."
"Not one less than six," said the patriot, vastly encouraged with the
support he got: "am I not right, sir? We have, first, Europe--"
"Ah, professor," said the silver-gray, interrupting him, "how is this?
You, such a distinguished scholar--you still believe in Europe? Why,
my dear sir, Europe no longer exists--certainly not as a quarter
of the globe. It is simply, as Humboldt very truly remarks in his
_Cosmos_, the septentrional point of Asia."
The surprise seemed to pass, at this point, from the face of the
Scot to that of the Strasburger. After reflecting a moment, "Really,"
murmured he, "I recollect, in _Cosmos_--But how, then, do you reach
six parts of the globe?"
"Only count, professor: Asia, one; Africa, two; Australia, three;
Oceanica, four; North America, five; and South America, six."
"You cut America in two?"
"Nature has taken that responsibility. Each part of the world being
necessarily an insulated continent, an enormous island, it is too much
to ask me to confound the northern and southern continents of America,
hung together by a thread--a thread which messieurs the engineers"--he
bowed airily to my companion--"have very probably severed by this
time."
The honest professor passed his hand over his forehead. "The deuce!"
he said. "That is logic perhaps. Still, sir, I think it is rather
hardy in you to double America and annihilate Europe, when Europe
discovered America."
"The Europeans did not discover America," replied the young
philosopher. "The Americans discovered Europe."
The professor of geography remained stunned: the homoeopathist gave
utterance to a cry--one of admiration, doubtless.
"An American colony was settled in Norway long before the arrival of
Columbus in Santo Domingo: who will contradict me when Humboldt says
so? Only read your _Cosmos_!"
"The dickens! prodigious! prodigious!" repeated the man of blue. The
young silver coat went on:
[Illustration: THE BLESSING OF THE BÂB.]
"I have been three times around the world, professor. The terrestrial
globe was my only chart. I have studied in their places its divisions,
continents, capes and oceans; also the customs, politics and
philosophies of its inhabitants. I have a weakness for learning; I
have caused myself to be initiated in all secret and philosophical
societies; I have taken a degree from the Brahmans of Benares; I
have received the accolade from the emir of the Druses; I have been
instructed by the priests of the Grand Lama, and have joined the
Society of Pure Illumination, the sole possessors of the Future Light.
I have just returned from Persia, where I received the blessing of the
great Bâb; and, like Solomon, I can say, _Vanitas vanitatum_!"
The red nose was by this time quite inflated and inflamed with
disinterested pride. The blue was crushed, but he made a final effort,
as the silver-gray made his preparations to depart and adjusted his
breakfast-bill. "Pardon me, sir," he said, with a little infusion of
provincial pride. "I am not a cosmopolitan, a Constantinopolitan or a
Bâbist. But I enjoy your conversation, and am not entirely without
the ability to sympathize in your geographical calculations. I
am preparing at the present moment a small treatise on Submarine
Geography; I am conducting, if that gives me any right to be heard,
the geographical department in the chief gymnasium here: in addition,
my youngest sister lost her ulnar bone by the explosion of an obus in
the seminary on the night of August 18th, when six innocent infants
were killed or maimed by the Prussians, who put a bomb in their little
beds like a warming-pan."
[Illustration: THE BOTANIST.]
"Never mind the warming-pan," said the traveler kindly, seeing that
the professor was making himself cry, and unconsciously quoting
Pickwick.
"I will not dilate on my title to trouble you for a few words more.
I perceive that I shall have a good deal to modify in my modest
treatise. I beg you to give us your views on some of the modifications
now going on in the East, especially the Turkish question and the
civilization of China."
"My dear professor," said the youthful Crichton sententiously, "do not
disturb yourself with those problems, which are already disposed of.
In twenty years the sultan will become a monk, to get rid of the chief
sultana, who has pestered his life out with her notions of woman's
rights, and who wore the Bloomer costume before the Crimean war. As
for the question about China, it is better to let sleeping dogs lie:
it has been a great mistake to arouse China, for it is a dog that
drags after it three hundred millions of pups. Only see the effect
already in Lima and San Francisco! Before a century has elapsed all
Asia, with Alaska and the Pacific part of America, to say nothing of
that petty extremity you persist in calling Europe, will be in the
power of China. Your little girls, professor, will be more liable to
lose their feet than their arms, for it is a hundred chances to one
but your great-grand-nieces grow up Chinawomen."
"Astonishing!" murmured the professor of geography.
"Admirable!" cried the doctor.
I had hitherto said nothing, though I was capitally entertained.
At length I ventured to take up my own parable, and, addressing the
pretended disciple of the Brahmans, I asked, "Can you enlighten us,
sir, on the true reason of the revolt of the slave States in America?"
The cosmopolitan, by this time standing, turned to me with a courteous
motion of acquiescence; and, after having given me to understand by an
agreeable smile that he did not confound me with his pair of victims,
he said pompously, "The true cause was that each Northern freeholder
demanded the use of two planters, now mostly octoroons, for
body-servants."
"You don't say so?" said the school-teacher, profoundly impressed.
The Scotchman looked like him who digesteth a pill. I decided quickly
on my own rôle, and briskly joined the conversation. Fishing up my
botany-box and extracting the little flower, "Nothing is more likely
when you know the country," I observed. "I have lived in Florida,
gentlemen, where I undertook, as Comparative Geographer and as amateur
botanist" (I looked searchingly at the professor, who had called me
an herb-doctor), "to fix the location of Ponce de Leon's fountain and
observe the medicinal plants to which it owes its virtue. America,
I must explain to you, is a country where proportions are greatly
changed. The pineapple tree there grows so very tall that it is
impossible from the ground to reach the fruit. This little flower now
in my hand becomes in that climate a towering and sturdy plant, the
tobacco plant. The wild justice of those lawless savannahs uses it as
a gibbet for the execution of criminals, whence the term 'Lynchburg
tobacco.' You cannot readily imagine the scale on which life expands.
It was formerly not necessary to be a great man there to have a
hundred slaves. For my part, sixty domestics sufficed me" (I regarded
sternly the homoeopathist, who had taken me for a waiter): "it was but
a scant allowance, since my pipe alone took the whole time of four."
"Oh," said the Scotchman, "allow me to doubt. I understand
the distribution of blood among the planters, because I am a
homoeopathist; but what could your pipe gain by being diluted among
four men?"
"The first filled it, the second lighted it, the third handed it and
the fourth smoked it. I hate tobacco."
The witticism appeared generally agreeable, and I laughed with the
rest. The cheerful philosopher in the gray coat passed out: as he left
the room, followed subserviently by his interlocutors, he bowed very
pleasantly to me and shook hands with my guardian the engineer.
"You know him?" I said to the latter.
"Just as well as you," he replied: "is it possible you don't recognize
him? It is Fortnoye."
"What! Fortnoye--the Ancient of the wine-cellar at Épernay?"
"Certainly."
"In truth it is the same jolly voice. Then his white beard was a
disguise?"
"What would you have?"
"I am glad he is the same: I began to think the mystifiers here were
as dangerous as those of the champagne country. At any rate, he is a
bright fellow."
"He is not always bright. A man with so good a heart as his must be
saddened sometimes, at least with others' woes, and he does not always
escape woes of his own."
This sentiment affected me, and irritated me a little besides, for I
felt that it was in my own vein, and that it was I who had a right
to the observation. I immediately quoted an extract from an Icelandic
Saga to the effect that dead bees give a stinging quality to the very
metheglin of the gods. We exchanged these remarks in crossing the
vestibule of the hotel: a carriage was standing there for my friend.
"I am sorry to leave you. I have a meeting with a Prussian engineer
about bridges and canals and the waterworks of Vauban, and everything
that would least interest you. I must cross immediately to Kehl. I
leave you to finish the geography of Strasburg."
"I know Strasburg by heart, and am burning to get out of it. I want to
cross the Rhine, for the sake of boasting that I have set foot in the
Baden territory. By the by, how have I managed to come so far without
a passport?"
"_This_ did it," said my engineer, tapping the tin box, which a waiter
had restored to me in a wonderful state of polish. "I put a plan or
two in it, with some tracing muslin, and allowed a spirit-level to
stick out. You were asleep. I know all the officials on this route.
I had only to tap the box and nod. You passed as my assistant. Nobody
could have put you through but I."
"You are a vile conspirator," said I affectionately, "and have all the
lower traits of the Yankee character. But I will use you to carry me
to Kehl, as Faust used Mephistopheles. By the by, your carriage is
a comfortable one and saves my time. I have two hours before I need
return to the train."
"It is double the time you will need."
EDWARD STRAHAN.
[TO BE CONTINUED.]
FROM THE POTOMAC TO THE OHIO.
[Illustration: VIEW NEAR ANTIETAM, MARYLAND.]
An old writer who dearly loved excursions, Francis Rabelais, inserted
in one of his fables an account of a country where the roads were in
motion. He called the place the Island of Odes, from the Greek
[Greek: odss], a "road," and explained: "For the roads travel, like
animated things; and some are wandering roads, like planets, others
passing roads, crossing roads, connecting roads. And I saw how the
travelers, messengers and inhabitants of the land asked, Where does
this road go to? and that? They were answered, From the south to
Faverolles, to the parish, to the city, to the river. Then hoisting
themselves on the proper road, without being otherwise troubled or
fatigued, they found themselves at their place of destination."
This fancy sketch, thrown off by an inveterate joker three hundred
years ago, is justified curiously by any of our modern railways; but
to see the picture represented in startling accuracy you should find
some busy "junction" among the coal-mountains. Here you may observe,
from your perch upon the hill, an assemblage of roads actively
reticulating and radiating, winding through the valleys, slinking off
misanthropically into a tunnel, or gayly parading away elbow-in-elbow
with the streams. These avenues, upon minute inspection, are seen to
be obviously moving: they are crawling and creeping with an unbroken
joint-work of black wagons, the rails hidden by their moving pavement,
and the road throughout advancing, foot by foot, into the distance.
It is hardly too fanciful--on seeing its covering slide away,
its switches swinging, its turn-tables revolving, its drawbridges
opening--to declare that such a road is an animal--an animal proving
its nature, according to Aristotle, by the power to move itself. Nor
is it at all censurable to ask of a road like this where it "goes to."
The notion of what Rabelais calls a "wayfaring way," a _chemin
cheminant_, came into our thoughts at Cumberland. But Cumberland was
not reached until after many miles of interesting travel along a route
remarkable for beauties, both natural and improved. A coal-distributor
is certain, in fact, to be a road full of attractions for the tourist;
for coal, that Sleeping Beauty of our era, always chooses a pretty bed
in which to perform its slumber of ages. The road which delivers
the Cumberland coal, however, is truly exceptional for splendor of
scenery, as well as for historical suggestiveness and engineering
science. It has recently become, by means of certain lavish
providences established for the blessing of travelers at every turn, a
tourist route and a holiday delight.
It is all very well for the traveler of the nineteenth century to
protest against the artificial and unromantic guidance of the railway:
he will find, after a little experience, that the homes of true
romance are discovered for him by the locomotive; that solitudes and
recesses which he would never find after years of plodding in sandal
shoon are silently opened to him by the engineer; and that Timon now,
seeking the profoundest cave in the fissures of the earth, reaches it
in a Pullman car.
The silvery Capitoline dome at Washington floats up from among its
garden trees, seeming to grow higher and higher as we recede from it.
Quickly dominating the low and mean buildings which encumber and try
to hide it in its own neighborhood, it gradually rises superior to the
whole city, growing greater as Washington grows less. The first
part of the course is over the loop of road newly acquired and still
improving by the company--a loop hanging downward from Baltimore, so
as to sweep over Washington, and confer upon the through traveler the
gift of an excursion through the capital. This loop swings southwardly
from Baltimore to a point near Frederick, Washington being set upon it
like a bead in the midst. The older road, like a mathematical chord,
stretches still between the first points, but is occupied with the
carrying of freight. The tourist notices the stout beams of the
bridges, the new look of the sleepers, and the sheen of the double
lines of fresh steel rail: he observes some heavy mason-work at the
Monocacy River. Two hours have passed: at Frederick Junction he
joins a road whose cuttings are grass-grown, whose quarried rocks are
softened with lichen. He is struck by the change, and with reason,
for he is now being carried under the privileges of the first railroad
charter granted in America.
We may not here undertake the story of the iron track, though it is
from this very road that such a story must take its departure, and
though we cannot grant that that story would be exceeded by any in
the range of the author's skill as a matter of popular interest. This
railroad, this "Baltimore and Ohio" artery, connects, through its
origin, with the very beginnings of modern progress, and indeed with
feudalism; for it was opened in 1828 by Charles Carroll, the patriot
who had staked his broad lands of Carrollton in 1776 against the
maintenance of feudalism in this country. "I consider this," said
Carroll, after his slender and aristocratic hand had relinquished the
spade, "among the most important acts of my life--second only to
my signing the Declaration of Independence." Railroads, excepting
coal-mine trams, were as yet untried; Stephenson had not yet exhibited
the Rocket; for travel and transportation the locomotive was unknown,
and the Baltimoreans conceived their scheme while yet uncertain
whether horse-power or _stationary_ steam-engines would be the
best acting force. It was opened as far as Ellicott's Mills as a
horse-road, the idlers and beauties of Baltimore participating in the
excursion as a novel jest. In 1830, Baron Krudener, the envoy from
Russia, rode upon it in a car with sails, called the Æolus, a model
of which he sent to the emperor Nicholas as something new and hopeful.
Passing the Monocacy, we roll over a rich champaign country, based
upon limestone--the garden of the State, and containing the ancient
manor of Carrollton, through whose grounds, by one of its branches,
this road passes for miles. Near by are quarries of Breccia marble--a
conglomerate of cemented variegated pebbles--out of which were cut
the rich pillars in the House of Representatives at Washington. The
Monocacy is crossed, near whose bank lies the bucolic old Maryland
town of Frederick, to attain which a twig of the road wanders off for
the few necessary miles. Soon the piquant charms of Potomac scenery
are at hand, the mountains are marching upon us, and the road becomes
stimulating.
A jagged spur of the Blue Ridge, the Catoctin Mountain, strides out
to the river, and the railroad, striking it, wraps itself around the
promontory in a sharp curve, like a blow with the flat of an elastic
Damascus sword. The broad Potomac sweeps rushing around its base: it
is the celebrated Point of Rocks. The nodding precipice, cut into a
rough and tortured profile by the engineers, lays its shadow to sleep
on the whizzing roofs of the cars as they glitter by, (Shadows always
seem to print themselves with additional distinctness upon any moving
object, like a waterfall or a foaming stream.) There are a village and
a bridge at the Point, and the mountain-range, broken in two by the
river, recovers itself gracefully and loftily on the other side.
[Illustration: POTOMAC TUNNEL, NEAR HARPER'S FERRY.]
For half an hour more, as we rush to meet the course of the Potomac,
the broad ledges that heave the bed of the river into mounds, and
the ascending configuration of the shore, seem to speak of something
grand, and directly we are in the cradle of romance, at Harper's
Ferry.
To reach this village, perhaps the most picturesque in the country,
we must cross the Potomac from Maryland into Virginia. The bridge is
peculiar and artistic. It is about nine hundred feet long; its two
ends are curved in opposite directions, and at its farther extremity
it splits curiously into two bridge-branches, one of which supports
the road running up the Shenandoah, while the other carries the main
road along the Potomac. The latter fork of the bridge runs for half
a mile up the course of the Potomac stream over the water, the road
having been denied footing upon the shore on account of the presence
there of the government arsenal buildings. The effect to the eye is
very curious: the arsenal is at present razed to the level of the
ground (having been fired, the reader will remember, by the Federal
guard at the beginning of hostilities, and some fifteen thousand stand
of arms burnt to prevent their falling into Lee's hands), and there
is no topographical reason to prevent the track running comfortably on
dry ground. The arrangements, however, for purchasing the right to
a road-bed on the arsenal grounds, though under way, are not yet
complete, and the road marches on aquatically, as aforesaid.
Harper's Ferry, a town supported of old almost entirely by the arsenal
works, is a desolate little stronghold among towering mountains, the
ruins being in the foreground. The precipices on either side of the
river belong to the Elk Ridge, through which, at some antediluvian
period, the colossal current has hewed its way. At the base of
the Virginia side of the mountains, hugged in by the Potomac and
Shenandoah Rivers, and by Loudon and Bolivar Heights, cowers the town.
[Illustration: BATTLE-GROUNDS OF THE POTOMAC VALLEY.]
Across the river towers the mighty cupola of Maryland Height, far
overtopping the other peaks, and farther down the stream, like a
diminishing reflection of it, the softer swell of South Mountain. An
ordinary rifle-cannon on Maryland Height can with the greatest ease
play at bowls to the other summits. From this eminence one Colonel
Ford, on September 13, 1862, toppled down his spiked and coward
cannon: the hostile guns of the enemy quickly swarmed up the summit he
had abandoned, and the Virginia crests of Loudon and Bolivar belched
with rebel artillery. The town was surrendered by Colonel Miles at
the very moment when McClellan, pressing forward through the passes
of South Mountain from Frederick, was at hand to relieve it: Miles was
killed, and the considerable military stores left in the village were
bagged by Stonewall Jackson. Flushed with this temporary advantage,
Jackson proceeded to join Lee, who then advanced from Sharpsburg and
gave unsuccessful battle to the Union forces at Antietam Creek.
This stream pours into the Potomac just above, from the Maryland side.
It gives its name to one of the most interesting actions of the war.
The fields of Antietam and Gettysburg were the only two great battle
grounds on which the Confederates played the rôle of invaders and left
the protection of their native States. Antietam was the first, and if
it could have been made for Lee a more decisive failure, might have
prevented Gettysburg. It occurred September 15th to 18th, 1862. Lee
had just thoroughly whipped that handsome Western braggart, General
Pope, and, elated with success, thought he could assume the offensive,
cross the Potomac, and collect around his banner great armies of
dissatisfied secessionists to the tune of "Maryland, my Maryland."
McClellan (then in the last month of his command over the army of the
Potomac) pushed with unwonted vigor over the mountains, inspired, it
is said, by the accidental foreknowledge of Lee's whole Maryland
plan, and clashed with Lee across the bridges of this pretty highland
stream. As an episode he lost Harper's Ferry; but that was a trifle.
It was a murderous duel, that which raged around the Dunker church
and over the road leading from Sharpsburg to Hagerstown. Lee's forty
thousand men were shielded by an elbow of the Potomac; his batteries
of horse-artillery under Stuart were murdering the forces of Hooker,
when that general was relieved by the support of Mansfield; then
Mansfield was killed and Hooker wounded; and then Sedgwick was sent
up to replace Mansfield; then, when Sedgwick was getting the better of
Jackson and Hood, McLaws and Walker drew up to the Confederate left,
and burst completely through Sedgwick's line. Presently, Franklin and
Smith came across from the stream and reinforced the Federals, driving
the Southern advance back to the church, and Burnside rendered some
hesitating assistance; but then rushed up the force which had received
the surrender of Harper's Ferry, singing victory, and drove back
Burnside; and when McClellan, on the morning of the 19th, found that
Lee had withdrawn across the Potomac, he was too much discouraged with
his own hurts to venture a pursuit. He had lost twelve thousand men,
and Lee eight thousand. But Antietam, though for us a costly and
unsatisfactory victory, was for the South a conclusive lesson. The
Peter-the-Hermit excursion into Maryland lasted just two weeks, and
its failure was signal and instructive. Intended as an invasion that
should result in the occupation of Washington and Philadelphia, it led
to nothing but to Stuart's audacious raid into Pennsylvania with his
thousand troopers--a theatrical flourish to wind up an unsuccessful
drama. As for Harper's Ferry, its overwhelming punishment and
precipitate conquest were not without their use: the retention by
the Federals of the little depot of army stores on the Virginia bank
surprised and thwarted Lee. To reduce it, he had to pause, and ere the
operation was complete McClellan was upon him, and cornered him before
he was enabled to take up a firm position in Western Maryland and
prepare for the Pennsylvania invasion. The Ferry fell into our hands
again, but as a ruin. As for the elaborate bridge approaching it, its
history is the history of the Potomac campaign: three times has it
been destroyed by the Confederates, and twice by the Unionists. Eight
times it has been carried away by freshets.
An earlier interest, yet intimately connected with the rebellion,
belongs to Harper's Ferry. From the car window you see the old
engine-house where John Brown fortified himself, and was wounded and
captured, while these wooded hills were bathed with October red in
1859. The breaches in the walls where he stood his siege are still
apparent, filled in with new brickwork. No single life could have been
so effectually paid out as his was, for he cemented in the cause of
the North the whole abolition sentiment of the civilized world, and
gained our army unnumbered recruits. Truly said the slaves when he
died, "Massa Brown is not buried: he is planted."
Of the site of all these storied ruins we can only say again and again
that it is beautiful. The rocky steeps that enclose the town have
a Scottish air, and traveled visitors, beholding them, are fain
to allude to the Trosachs; but the river that rolls through the
mountains, and has whirled them into a hollow as the potter turns
a vase, is continental in its character, and plunges through the
landscape with a swell of eddy and a breadth of muscle that are like
nothing amid the basking Scottish waters.
On an eminence immediately overlooking Harper's Ferry, and some four
hundred feet thereabove, is the enormous turtle-shaped rock, curiously
blocked up over a fissure, on which Jefferson once inscribed his
name. Chimney Rock, a detached column on the Shenandoah near by, is a
sixty-foot high natural tower, described by Jefferson in his _Notes on
Virginia_. Upon the precipice across the river, on the Maryland side,
the fancy of the tourist has discovered a figure of Napoleon: it forms
a bas-relief of stupendous proportions, having the broad cliff for
background, and clearly defining the hair, the Corsican profile and
the bust, with an epaulette on the shoulder. The Blue Ridge, as it
traverses from this point the breadth of Virginia, breaks into various
natural eccentricities--the Peaks of Otter, rising a mile above the
sea, the Natural Bridge, Weyer's Cave, Madison's Cave--and gives issue
to those rich heated and mineralized springs for which the State is
famous.
[Illustration: SCENE AMONG THE MARYLAND ALLEGHANIES.]
The tinge of regret with which we leave Harper's Ferry is mitigated
by the hope that greater wonders may lie beyond. In two miles the
railroad, as if willing to carve out a picture-frame in which the
heroic river may be viewed, excavates the "Potomac Tunnel," as it is
named, through which the water is seen like a design in _repoussé_
silver, with two or three emerald islands in it for jewel-work. The
perforation is eighty feet through, but in contrast with its rocky
breadth our picture-frame is not too deep: whenever we shift our
position, the view seems to increase in art-beauty, and as a final
comprehensive picture it recedes and crowds under the spandrels of the
arch the whole mountain-pass, with the confluence of the two rivers in
the finest imaginable aspect.
Poor Martinsburg! during the rebellion a mere sieve, through which the
tide of war poured back and forth in the various fluctuations of our
fortune! It is said to have been occupied by both armies, alternately,
fifteen times. The passenger sees it as a mere foreground of big
restaurant and platform, with a conglomeration of village houses in
the rear--featureless as the sheep which the painter of Wakefield put
in for nothing. One incident, however, supervenes. An old man, with
positive voice and manners, and altogether a curious specimen in
looks, gait and outfit, comes through the train with a pannier
of apples and groundnuts. He is pointed out as one of the men of
importance in Martinsburg, owning a row of flourishing houses. With
the anxious servility which wealth always commands, we purchase an
apple of this capitalist, blandly choosing a knotty and unsalable
specimen.
Pretty soon, as we look over into Maryland, we have indicated for
us the site of old Fort Frederick, until lately traceable, but now
completely obliterated. It was an interesting relic of the old Indian
wars. Shortly after Braddock's defeat on the Monongahela, when the
Indians had become very bold, and had almost depopulated this part of
Maryland, Fort Frederick was erected by Governor Sharpe as a menace,
and garrisoned with two hundred men. It was an immediate moral
victory, awing and restraining the savages, though no decided conflict
is known to have occurred from its construction to its quiet rotting
away within the present generation. Those were the days when Frederick
in Maryland and Chambersburg in Pennsylvania were frontier points, the
Alleghanies were Pillars of Hercules, and all beyond was a blank!
Still continuing our course on the Virginia side of the Potomac,
through what is known in this State as the Virginia Valley, while in
Pennsylvania the same intervale is called the Cumberland Valley, we
admire the increasing sense of solitude, the bowery wildness of the
river-banks, and the spirited freshness of the hastening water. At a
station of delightful loneliness we alight.
Here Sir John's Run comes leaping from the hills to slide gurgling
into the Potomac, and at this point we attain Berkeley Springs by
a dragging ascent of two miles and a half in a comfortable country
stage. Sir John's Run was called after Sir John Sinclair, a
quartermaster in the doomed army of Braddock. The outlet into the
Potomac is a scene of quiet country beauty, made dignified by the
hills around the river. A hot, rustic station of two or three
rooms, an abandoned factory building--tall, empty-windowed and
haunted-looking--gone clean out for want of commerce, like a lamp for
lack of oil. Opposite the station a pretty homespun tavern trellised
with grapes, a portrait of General Lee in the sitting-room, and a fat,
buxom Virginia matron for hostess. All this quiet scene was once the
locality of the hot hopes and anxieties of genius, and it is for this
reason we linger here.
When the little harbor at the mouth of Sir John's Run was still more
wild and lonely than now, James Rumsey, a working bath-tender at
Berkeley Springs, launched upon it a boat that he had invented of
novel principle and propulsive force. The force was steam, and Rumsey
had shown his model to Washington in 1780. First discoverers of
steam-locomotion are turning up every few months in embarrassing
numbers, but we cannot feel that we have a right to suppress the
claims of honest Rumsey, the protégé of Washington. The dates are said
to be as follows: Rumsey launched his steamboat here at Sir John's Run
in 1784, before the general and a throng of visitors from the Springs;
in 1788, John Fitch launched another first steamboat on the Delaware,
and sent it successfully up to Burlington; in 1807, Robert Fulton set
a third first steamboat on the Hudson, the Clermont. Rumsey's motion
was obtained by the reaction of a current _squirted_ through the stern
of the boat against the water of the river, the current being pumped
by steam. This action, so primitive, so remote from the principle
of the engine now used, seems hardly worthy to be connected with
the great revolutionary invention of steam-travel; yet Washington
certified his opinion that "the discovery is of vast importance, and
may be of the greatest usefulness in our inland navigation." James
Rumsey, with just a suspicion of the irritability of talent, accused
Fitch of "coming pottering around" his Virginia work-bench and
carrying off his ideas, to be afterward developed in Philadelphia. It
is certain that the development was great. Rumsey died in England of
apoplexy at a public lecture where he was explaining his contrivance.
A sun-burnt, dark-eyed young Virginian now guides us up the
mountain-road to the Springs, where we find a full-blown Ems set
in the midst of the wilderness. The Springs of Berkeley, originally
included in the estates of Lord Fairfax, and by him presented to the
colony, were the first fashionable baths opened in this country. One
half shudders to think how primitive they were in the first ages, when
the pools were used by the sexes alternately, and the skurrying nymphs
hastened to retreat at the notification that their hour was out and
that the gentlemen wanted to come in. They were populous and civilized
in the pre-Revolutionary era when Washington began to frequent them
and became part owner in the surrounding land. The general's will
mentions his property in "Bath," as the settlement was then called.
The Baroness de Reidesel (wife of the German general of that name
taken with Burgoyne at Saratoga) spent with her invalid husband the
summer of 1779 at Berkeley, making the acquaintance of Washington and
his family; and whole pages of her memoirs are devoted to the quaint
picture of watering-place life at that date.
[Illustration: SCENE AT CUMBERLAND NARROWS.]
Berkeley Springs are probably as enjoyable as any on the continent.
There is none of that aspect of desolation and pity-my-sorrows so
common at the faded resorts of the unhappy South, yet a pleasant
rurality is impressed on the entertainment. The principal hotel is
a vast building, curiously rambling in style: the dining-room, for
instance, is a house in itself, planted in a garden. Here, when the
family is somewhat small and select, will be presented the marvels of
Old Dominion cooking--the marrowy flannel-cake, the cellular waffle,
the chicken melting in a beatitude of cream gravy: when the house
is pressed with its hundreds of midsummer guests these choice
individualities of kitchen chemistry are not attainable; but even
then the bread, the roast, the coffee--a great _chef_ is known by
the quality of his simples--are of the true Fifth Avenue style
of excellence. Captain Potts (we have come to the lands where the
hotel-keepers are military officers), an old moustache of the Mexican
war, broods over the large establishment like the father of a great
family. With the men he is wise on a point of horseflesh or the
quality of the brandy; with the matrons he is courtly, gallant,
anecdotic: the young women appear to idolize him, and lean their
pretty elbows on his desk half the day, for he is their protector,
chevalier, entertainer, bonbon-holder, adviser and elder brother, all
in one. Such is the landlord, as that rare expert is understood in
the South. As for the regimen, it is the rarest kind of Pleasure made
Medicinal, and that must be the reason of its efficacy. There is a
superb pool of tepid water for the gentlemen to bathe in: a similar
one, extremely discreet, for the ladies. Besides these, of which
the larger is sixty feet long, there are individual baths, drinking
fountains in arbors, sulphur and iron springs, all close to the hotel.
The water, emerging all the year round at a temperature of about
seventy-five degrees, remains unfrozen in winter to the distance of a
mile or more along the rivulet by which it escapes. The flavor is so
little nauseous that the pure issue of the spring is iced for ordinary
table use; and this, coupled with the fact that we could not detect
the slightest unusual taste, gave us the gravest doubts about the
trustworthiness of this mineral fountain's old and unblemished
reputation: another indication is, that they have never had the liquid
analyzed. But the gouty, the rheumatic, the paralyzed, the dyspeptic,
who draw themselves through the current, and let the current draw
itself through them, are content with no such negative virtues for it,
and assign
To Berkeley every virtue under heaven.
The mountain-village known to Washington as "Bath" is still a scene
of fashionable revel: the over-dressed children romp, the old maids
flirt, the youthful romancers spin in each other's arms to music
from the band, and dowagers carefully drink at the well from the
old-fashioned mug decorated with Poor Richard's maxims; but the
festivities have a decorous and domestic look that would meet the pity
of one of the regular ante-rebellion bloods. After the good people
have retired at an early hour, we fancy the ghost of a lofty Virginia
swell standing in the moonlight upon the piazza, which he decorates
with gleams of phantom saliva. Attended by his teams of elegant
horses, and surrounded by a general halo of gambling, racing,
tourneying and cock-fighting, he seems to shake his lank hair sadly
over the poor modern carnival, and say, "Their tameness is shocking to
me."
There is a good deal of honest sport still to be had in the adjacent
hills: the streams yield trout, and various larger prey, for which the
favorite bait is a small ugly fish called helgamite. The woods contain
turkeys, pheasants, quail and woodcock. The region has a valuable
interpreter in the person of General David H. Strother, so agreeably
known to the public as "Porte Crayon," whose father was lessee of the
Springs, and who at one period himself conducted the hotel. He
addicts himself now to pen and pencil solely. In the village, where
he presides over a pretty cottage home, he has quite a circle of
idolaters: the neighbors' houses display on their walls his sketches
of the village eccentrics, attended by those accessories of dog or gun
or nag which always stamp the likeness, and make the rustic critic cry
out, "Them's his very features!" A large, boisterous painting in the
hotel represents his impressions of the village arena in his youth;
and ancient gamesters, gray-headed now, like to stroll in and
contemplate their own portraits grouped around the cock-pit in all
the hot blood of betting days and in the green dress-coats of 1840.
Strother (now an active graybeard) was profoundly stirred by
the outbreak of the rebellion. His friends were slaveholders and
Confederates: he lived upon the mountain-line dividing the rich,
proud, noble rebels of the eastern counties from the hungry and
jealous loyalists of West Virginia. He himself loved the State as
Bruce loved Scotland, but he loved country better. He shut himself
up with his distracting problem for three days in utter privacy: he
emerged with his mind made up, a Union soldier.
"It must have been awkward for a Virginian to cast his lot against
Virginia," we observed to the stagedriver who bore us back to the
station--an ex-Federal soldier and a faithful devotee of Crayon's.
"No awkwarder than for Virginia to go against her country: that's how
_we_ looked at it," retorted the patriot.
Bidding adieu to Berkeley and its paternal landlord, we resume the
steel road (that well-worn phrase of the "iron way" is a complete
misnomer) with another glance of familiarity at the beautiful
confluence of Sir John's Run with the Potomac, where the sunny waters
still seem to murmur of the landing of Braddock's army and the novel
disturbance of James Rumsey's steamer. The mountains extending from
this point, the recesses of the Blue Ridge, in their general trend
south-westerly through the State, are one great pharmacy of curative
waters. Jordan and Capper Springs, in the neighborhood of Winchester,
lie thirty or forty miles to the south; and beneath those are imbedded
the White, Black, Yellow, and we know not how many other colors in the
general spectrum of Sulphurs. It would perhaps be our duty to indicate
more exactly the Bethesdas of this vast natural sanitarium, to which
our present course gives us the key, but that task has already been
performed, in a complete and very attractive manner, by Mr. Edward A.
Pollard in his little work _The Virginia Tourist_. Our present task is
to attain the main wall of the Alleghany Mountains, which we do at the
town of Cumberland, after passing through the grand curved tunnel at
Pawpaw Ridge, and crossing Little Cacapon Creek, and traversing the
South Branch, which is the larger and true Potomac, and admiring the
lofty precipices, with arched and vaulted strata, on South Branch
Mountain and at Kelly's Rocks and Patterson Creek.
[Illustration: CLIFF VIEW, CUMBERLAND NARROWS.]
It is but a prosaic consideration, but the bracing air of the
mountain-ride from Berkeley Springs down to the railway station, and
the rapid career thence to Cumberland, have given us the appetites of
ogres. We carry our pilgrim scrip into the town of Cumberland without
much hope of having it generously filled, for this coaly capital,
lost among its mountains, had formerly the saddest of reputations for
hospitality. The three or four little taverns were rivals in the
art of how not to diet. Accordingly, our surprise is equal to our
satisfaction when we find every secret of a grand hotel perfectly
understood and put in practice at the "Queen City," the large house
built and conducted by the railway company. A competent Chicago
purveyor, Mr. H.M. Kinsley, who has the office of general manager
of the hotels belonging to the corporation, resides here as at the
head-quarters of his department, and is blessed every day by the
flying guests from the railway-trains, as well as the permanent
boarders who use Cumberland as a mountain-resort. The choicest
dainties from the markets of Baltimore, laid tenderly on ice in that
city and brought as freight in the lightning trains of the road, are
cooked for the tables, and the traveler "exercised in woes," who used
to groan over salt pork and dreadful dodgers, now finds the "groaning"
transferred to the overloaded board. The house is now in all the charm
of freshness and cleanliness, hospitably furnished, with deep piazza,
a pretty croquet-lawn with fountain, and other modern attractions,
the whole surrounded with what is no small gain in a muddy Maryland
town--a broad Schillinger cement pavement, which, like Mr. Wopsle's
acting, may be praised as "massive and concrete."
By day, Cumberland is quite given over to carbon: drawing her supplies
from the neighboring mining-town of Frostburg, she dedicates herself
devoutly to coals. All day long she may be seen winding around her
sooty neck, like an African queen, endless chains and trains and
rosaries of black diamonds, which never tire of passing through
the enumeration of her jeweled fingers. At night the scene is more
beautiful. We clambered up the nearest hill at sunset, while the
colored light was draining into the pass of Wills' Mountain as into
a vase, and the lamps of the town sprang gradually into sight beneath
us. The surrounding theatre of mountains had a singularly calm and
noble air, recalling the most enchanted days of Rome and the Campagna.
The curves of the hills are marvels of swaying grace, depending from
point to point with the elegance of draperies, and seating the village
like a gem in the midst of "great laps and folds of sculptor's work."
The mechanics and miners, as twilight deepened, began to lead their
sweethearts over these beautiful hills, so soft in outline that no
paths are necessary. The clouds of fireflies made an effect, combining
with the village lights below. Then as night deepened, as if they
were the moving principle of all the enchantment, the company's
rolling-mills, like witches' kettles, began to spirt enormous gouts
of flame, which seemed to cause their heavy roofs to flutter like the
lids of seething caldrons.
The commanding attraction of the western journey is necessarily the
passage of the Alleghanies. The climb begins at Piedmont, and follows
an ascent which in eleven consecutive miles presents the rare grade
of one hundred and sixteen feet per mile. The first tableau of real
sublimity, perhaps, occurs in following up a stream called Savage
River. The railway, like a slender spider's thread, is seen hanging at
an almost giddy height up the endless mountain-side, and curved hither
and thither in such multiplied windings that enormous arcs of it can
always be seen from the flying window of the car. The woods, green
with June or crimson with November, clamber over each other's
shoulders up the ascent; but as we attain the elevation of two
hundred feet above the Savage, their tufted tops form a soft and mossy
embroidery beneath us, diminishing in perspective far down the cleft
of the ravine. As we turn the flank of the great and stolid Backbone
Mountain we command the mouth of another stream, pouring in from the
south-west: it is a steeply-enclosed, hill-cleaving torrent, which
some lover of plays and cider, recollecting Shakespeare's Midsummer
Night's slumber beneath the crabapple boughs, has named Crabtree
Creek. There is a point where the woody gorges of both these streams
can be commanded at once by the eye, and Nature gives us few landscape
_pendants_ more primitively wild and magnificent than these.
This ascent was made by the engineers of the company in the early
days of railroads, and when no one knew at what angle the friction of
wheels upon rails would be overcome by gravity. On the trial-trip the
railroad president kept close to the door, meaning, in the case of
possible discomfiture and retrogression, to take to the woods! But all
went well, and in due time was reached, as we now reach it, Altamont,
the alpine village perched two thousand six hundred and twenty-six
feet above the tide.
The interest of the staircase we have run up depends greatly on its
pioneer character. No mountain-chain had been crossed by a locomotive
before the Alleghanies were outraged, as we see them, here and by this
track. As the railroad we follow was the first to take existence in
this country, excepting some short mining roads, so the grade here
used was the first of equal steepness, saving on some English roads of
inferior length and no mountainous prestige. Here the engineer, like
Van Arnburgh in the lion's den, first planted his conqueror's foot
upon the mane of the wilderness; and 'in this spot modern science
first claimed the right to reapply that grand word of a French
monarch, "_Il n'y a plus de Pyrenées_!"
[Illustration: VALLEY FALLS, WEST VIRGINIA.]
We are on the crest of the Alleghanies. On either side of the
mountain-pass we have threaded rise the higher summits of the range;
but, though we seem from the configuration of the land to be in
a valley, we are met at every turn by the indications familiar to
mountain-tops--indications that are not without a special desolation
and pathos. Though all is green with summer, we can see that the
vegetation has had a dolorous struggle for existence, and that the
triumph of certain sparse trees here and there is but the survival
of the strongest. They stand scattered and scraggy, like individual
bristles on a bald pate. Their spring has been borrowed from summer,
for the leafage here does not begin until late in June. The whole
scenery seems to array itself for the tourist like a country wife,
with many an incompleteness in its toilet, and with a kind of haggard
apology for being late. Rough log-houses stand here and there among
the laurels. The tanned gentlemen standing about look like California
miners, as you see them in the illustrations to Bret Harte's stories.
Through this landscape, roughly blocked out, and covered still
with Nature's chips and shavings--and seeming for that very reason
singularly fresh and close to her mighty hand--we fly for twenty
miles. We are still ascending, and the true apex of our path is only
reached at the twentieth. This was the climax which poet Willis came
out to reach in a spirit of intense curiosity, intent to peer over and
see what was on the other side of the mountains, and with some idea,
as he says, of hanging his hat on the evening star. His disgust, as a
bard, when he found that the highest point was only named "Cranberry
Summit," was sublime.
"Willis was particularly struck," said the landlord of the Glades
Hotel, "with a quality of whisky we had hereabouts at the time of his
visit. In those days, before the 'revenue,' an article of rich corn
whisky was made in small quantities by these Maryland farmers. Mr.
Willis found it agree with him particularly well, for it's as pure as
water, and slips through your teeth like flaxseed tea. I explained to
him how it gained in quality by being kept a few years, becoming
like noble old brandy. Mr. Willis was fired with the idea, and took a
barrel along home with him, in the ambitious intention of ripening it.
In less than six months," pursued the Boniface with a humorous twinkle
in his eyes, "he sent for another barrel."
The region where we now find ourselves among these mountain-tops is
known as the Glades--a range of elevated plateaux marked with all the
signs of a high latitude, but flat enough to be spread with occasional
patches of discouraged farms. The streams make their way into the
Youghiogheny, and so into the Ohio and Gulf of Mexico, for we have
mounted the great watershed, and have long ago crossed both branches
of the sun-seeking Potomac! We are in a region that particularly
justifies the claim of the locomotive to be the great discoverer of
hidden retreats, for never will you come upon a place more obviously
disconcerted at being found out. The screams of the whistle day by day
have inserted no modern ideas into this mountain-cranium, which, like
Lord John Russell's, must be trepanned before it can be enlightened.
The Glades are sacred to deer, bears, trout. But the fatal rails guide
to them an unceasing procession of staring citizens, and they are
filled in the fine season with visitors from Cincinnati and Baltimore.
For the comfort of these we find established in the Glades two
dissimilar hotels.
The first hostelry is the Deer Park Hotel, just finished, and
really admirable in accommodations. It is a large and very tasteful
structure, with the general air of a watering-place sojourn of the
highest type--a civilized-looking fountain playing, and the familiar
thunder of the bowling-alley forming bass to the click of the
billiard-room. Here, as in Cumberland, we find an artificial
forwardness of the dinner-table in the midst of the most unpromising
circumstances. The daintiest meats and cates are served by the deftest
waiters. The fact is, the hotel is owned by the company, and the
dinners are wafted over, in Arabian Nights fashion, from the opulent
markets of Baltimore. To prepare a feast, in this desolation, fit for
the nuptials of kings and emperors, would be a very simple matter
of the telegraph. Altogether, the aspect of this ornate,
audacious-looking summer palace is the strangest thing, just where it
is, to be seen on the mountains. The supreme sweetness of the air, the
breath of pine and hemlock, the coolness of midsummer nights, make the
retreat a boon for July and August. In autumn, among the resplendent
and tinted mountain-scenery, with first-rate sport in following the
Alleghany deer, the charms are perhaps greater.
The other resting-place of which we spoke is at the Glades Hotel in
the town of Oakland--the same in which Mr. Willis quenched his poetic
thirst. Oakland, looking already old and quaint, though it is a
creation of the railroad, sits immediately under the sky in its
mountain, in a general dress and equipage of whitewashed wooden
houses. A fine stone church, however, of aspiring Gothic, forms a
contrast to the whole encampment, and seems to have been quickly
caught up out of a wealthy city: it is a monumental tribute by the
road-president, Mr. Garrett, to a deceased brother; the county, too,
in its name of Garrett, bears testimony to the same powerful and
intelligent family. As for the "Glades," it is kept by Mr. Dailey in
the grand old Southern style, and the visitor, very likely for the
first time in his life, feels that he is _at home_. It is a curious
thing that the sentiment of the English inn, the priceless and
matchless feeling of comfort, has now completely left the
mother-country to take refuge with some fine old Maryland or Virginia
landlord, whose ideas were formed before the war. We have at the
"Glades" a specimen. In Captain Potts of Berkeley we found another.
This kind of landlord, in fact, should be a captain, a general or a
major, in order to fill his rôle perfectly. He is the patron and
companion of his guests, looking to their amusement with all the
solicitude of a private householder. His manners are filled with a
beaming, sympathetic and exquisite courtesy. He is necessarily a
gentleman in his manners, having all his life lived that sporting,
playful, supervisory and white-handed existence proper at once to the
master of a plantation and the owner of a hotel. His society is
constantly sought, his table is pounced upon by ladies with backgammon
in the morning, by gentlemen with decks of cards at night. Always
handsome, sunburnt, and with unaffected good-breeding, he is the king
of his delicious realm, the beloved despot of his domain. We have left
ourselves, in sketching the general character, no space to descend to
particulars on Mr. Dailey; but he was all the time before us as a
sitter when we made the portrait. A stroll with him around his farm,
and to his limpid little chalybeate spring, after one of his
famously-cooked, breakfasts of trout and venison, leaves an impression
of amity that you would not take away from many private
country-houses.
[Illustration: FISH CREEK VALLEY, WEST VIRGINIA.]
The affluents of the Little and Great Yok (so the Youghiogheny is
locally called) are still stocked with trout, while a gentleman
of Oakland has abundance of the fish artificially breeding in his
"ladders," and sells the privilege of netting them at a dollar the
pound. As for the wild fish, we were informed by a sharp boy who
volunteered to show us the chalybeate spring, and who guided us
through the woods barefoot, making himself ill with "sarvice" berries
as he went,--we were instructed by this naturalist that the trout were
eaten away from the streams "by the alligators." This we regarded as a
sun-myth, or some other form of aboriginal superstition, until we were
informed by several of the gravest and most trustworthy gentlemen of
several different localities on the mountains that there really is
a creature infesting these streams supposed by them to be a young
alligator, reaching a length of twelve inches, and doubtless
subsisting on fish. An alligator as a mountain-reptile had not entered
into our conception: can these voracious saurians, playing in the
alpine affluents of the Mississippi, possibly be identical with the
vast and ugly beasts of the lower bayous and the Gulf? We leave the
identification for some reptile-loving philosopher.
[Illustration: CHEAT RIVER VALLEY AND MOUNTAINS.]
Descending the western slope of the mountains, we prick up our
attention, although the grade is gradual and easy. We know that we are
coming to the crowning glory of the ride, the region celebrated for
its more than Arcadian beauty, and consecrated by the earliest glories
of our war--by the mountain Iliad of McClellan, the initial action at
Philippi, and the prompt trampling out of West Virginia secession
by the victories of Cheat River. This tameless, mountain-lapped,
hemlock-tinted river had long been our fancied cynosure. "Each mortal
has his Carcassonne," said, after a French poet, the late lamented
John R. Thompson, using the term for what is long desired and never
attained; and Mr. Matthew Arnold, in writing of a "French Eton," says,
"Whatever you miss, do not miss seeing Carcassonne." As Carcassonne
exists in French landscape, exists in the tourist's mind and desire, a
standard of beauty and historic suggestion, such to us had become
this swart and noble river. Now it happens that Thompson has left a
description, in his most polished prose, of glorious Cheat River. As
our own powers of description are very inferior, we make no scruple
of borrowing, or, as Reade calls it, "jewel-setting:" "The grandest
achievement of the engineer (whose name, Benjamin H. Latrobe, should
always be stated in connection with the road) is to be found, however,
in the region of Cheat River, where to the unscientific eye it would
appear almost impossible that a road-bed could ever have been built.
For two miles beyond Rowlesburg, where the Cheat River is crossed on a
massive bridge of iron, there is a continuous succession of marvels
in railway-work, of which the Tray Run viaduct is a dream of lightness
and grace, yet so firm in its welded strength that thousands of tons
of merchandise pass over it daily without causing, the slightest
oscillation of its airy arches. Here, too, the wonders of mechanical
skill are placed in striking juxtaposition with the wonders of Nature,
whose obduracy has been so signally overcome. The sense of security
was heightened in our case by a furious storm which burst upon us.
We were seated on the fender or' cow-catcher,' watching the majestic
marshaling of the thunder-clouds over the mountain-tops, and enjoying
to the full the excitement of the moment, when suddenly the wind
blew a terrific gust, filling the air with dust and dry leaves, and
threatening to carry us individually over the precipice. The train
was stopped, and we sought shelter in the comfortable car, which then
moved on through the driving floods that continued to descend for half
an hour, forming cataracts on every side of us. But the water ran off
harmlessly from the solid track, and our engine bade defiance to the
tempest, which hurled huge branches of the trees into the angry abyss
beneath. The triumph of Science over Nature was complete; and as the
sinking sun threw a glow over the Glades where the clouds had parted,
I think my companions caught some inspirations of the 'Poetry of the
Rail-way.'"
[Illustration: CHEAT RIVERS NARROWS.]
At Grafton we have choice of two routes: one, to Wheeling, leads us by
the beautiful scenery of the Tygart, where the Valley River Falls are
laughing and glistening all day and all night, and by the stupendous
Bollman bridge at Bellaire, almost two miles long, to Wheeling. But we
continue on a straight course to Cincinnati, having promised ourselves
to see the contrast between the City of Monuments and the Metropolis
of Pork. Grafton offers us the accommodations of another of the
company's hotels, where, as at Cumberland, we are daintily and
tenderly fed. At Parkersburg we find another superb bridge, over a
mile in length; at Athens an imposing insane asylum, to take care of
us if all these engineering wonders have deprived us of our senses;
and finally in Cincinnati, just a day after our departure from
Baltimore, the gleam of the Ohio River and the fulfillment of our
intention.
AN EPISODE IN THE LIFE OF A STRONG-MINDED WOMAN.
_Extracts from a Journal_.
November 1, 18----. It is just three years to-day since I began to
keep this journal. I am so glad now that I persisted in doing so,
in spite of the temptations that have often assailed me to throw it
aside. How else could I realize, bring home to myself, these past
three years, strong and vivid as my remembrance of them is? No effort
of mere recollection could have preserved for me as this book has done
a record of my struggles and failures, and of my victories. Yes, I
write the word proudly, _victories_, for I have been beyond my hopes
successful. How well I remember my dear mother's distress at my queer
notions, as she called them--her entreaties, her tender illogical
protests against my making myself "conspicuous"! Dear mother! I can
see now that it was very natural she should have disliked and dreaded
my becoming a "strong-minded woman," for anything narrower than her
ideas of a woman's education and sphere one cannot imagine. She was an
excellent specimen of the old-fashioned mother and wife, and I believe
sincerely thought her whole duty in life and the intention of her
creation was "to suckle fools and chronicle small beer."
Let me see: yes, here it is at the very beginning--November 1, 18----.
How faded the ink looks! Let me read it: "To-day I told mother I meant
to attend a course of medical lectures: we had a scene, and she called
in Cousin Jane to reason with me. How I detest Cousin Jane! She is
nothing but a mass of orthodox dogmatism. Of course we quarreled over
it, and she ended by telling me I was disgracing the family, and
was no true woman. Well, we shall see which of us has the truer
comprehension of a woman's sphere."
It is three years since I wrote that. Those lectures were my first
step, and, like all first steps, cost me more of a struggle than
anything I have done since. As I look back over these three years, I
see that every hope and aspiration I then cherished has been more than
realized. I can trace the steady progress of my intellect. I can go
back to the days when I started to earn my own living--when I thought
it a great thing to have gained a few dollars by my own labor. Yes, I
am very glad to have this record of the past: it makes me strong and
hopeful of the future. I have never regretted my decision to make an
independent life for myself. I have sought only to do that for which
Nature had gifted me, and from which nothing but custom and prejudice
debarred me; and in claiming my own position I am conscious of having
helped other women, and of having led the way for those who may be
less courageous than I am.
All this might sound very conceited and self-confident to any one who
should read it, but I do not write to be read by other eyes than my
own: my journal is the reflex of my thoughts and feelings; so I may be
frank with myself. And why should I _not_ be proud of my independence,
as well as any other human creature?
But I must prepare my speech for to-morrow. They say they can't do
without me, and I really believe they mean it; for though some women
besides myself have opinions, and can put them into words, they mostly
lack the courage that I certainly possess. What a delicious sense of
freedom and unfettered action I have in my life! I don't think I have
laid down the special powers of my sex in asserting my freedom; but
you must wait, little book, for the confession that is on the tip of
my pen. Work first: that is my motto.
_Nov_. 10. Ten days since I opened my journal, and such busy days as
they have been! Three speeches, and half a pamphlet written! I have
done what people commonly term "a man's work" this week. How I despise
all these time-honored phrases, which, dead letters as they are,
act as links to strengthen the chain that binds women in a state of
inferiority. Why not say "a _woman's_ work"? But that is a different
sort of thing, I should be told: a woman should stay at home and take
care of her house and children. Why so, say I, if she has no house,
and does not wish for husband and children, feeling that they would
impede her in her work? All women are not born to be wives and
mothers: some have other work to do. But I need not argue with my
journal: it is of my way of thinking; my ideas meet no opposition
here. "But this is not at all womanly," my critic would say, had
I one, which I have not: "you have not said a word of the really
important event of the week." Dare I say that I had half forgotten it?
A man has asked me to marry him! The great event of a woman's life has
been within my reach, and I refused it. Mr. Whitaker is a very nice
fellow, but too adoring by half. I want an equal, not a slave--a
friend, a companion, not a man drawn to me by his imagination and
desiring to put me on a pedestal before marriage, that he may reverse
our position afterward. And then, too, marriage would hamper and
restrict me. I must not give up to mankind what is meant for a party.
But here I have a reflection to make, the result of my three years'
experience since I became a "strong-minded woman." It is always
maintained that a woman who chooses the life and holds the views that
I do destroys her attraction and charm for the other sex, and that no
man, however clever and successful she may be, will want to marry
a woman who puts her intellect into trousers instead of petticoats.
There was never a greater mistake. I have had four offers of marriage
since I "unsexed" myself (that's the proper expression, I believe),
and all from most respectable, well-to-do, worthy men; and I really
think they all cared for me. I cannot help having a certain sense of
gratified vanity about this, for, in spite of my critics, I am a woman
still. I have earned a rest to-night, so I'll stop writing and go to
bed.
_Nov_. 16. I feel lonely to-night. I am not often lonely: perhaps my
little book will comfort me. Sometimes I have said to myself that my
motto was that of a star: "Einsam bin ich, nicht allein." To-night it
is not so. That Mr. Lawrence who was introduced to me to-night had a
striking face, but there was a sort of masculine manner about him that
I don't fancy. Manliness I like, but he seemed to be so sure that
I was not his equal; and yet he treated me with perfect respect and
courtesy. Some one whispered in my ear, "He is a great society swell."
I have never seen anything of what is called society: I was not born
with a title to admission within its circle, and I have always been
too proud to seek it; yet I confess I have a curiosity to see what it
is like. I suppose I should see the best result that the old way of
looking at women can produce--the pink-cotton system, I call it.
I don't believe that man would ever dream of contradicting me in a
question of fact, or of using his strongest logical weapons against
me in a discussion: he would only play with me mentally. How angry the
very thought makes me! And yet he would defer to my opinion, and
pay me all respect, and listen to everything I said, however silly,
because I am a woman. What a strange, inconsistent mingling of
discordant ideas! A toy and a divinity! His manners were, however,
very agreeable: I suppose he is what is called a man of the world.
Rather a poor thing to be: his manners are dearly bought. He said
something about his cousin Mrs. Fordyce calling on me. Well, if she
does, I shall perhaps have a glimpse at the _beau monde_. I wonder if
all the men in society look as high-bred as he does? He is probably
narrow-minded naturally, but he is one result of our scheme of
civilization, which has its good as well as its bad points. Dear me!
I certainly did not mean to make an analysis of Mr. Lawrence's
character. Good-night, my little book!
_Nov_. 20. I cannot write to-night, and yet I must, I must. My head
is bursting with thoughts and visions, my heart is swelling with new
sensations. What an evening I have had! I shall never, never think
myself courageous again. I, who have faced crowds with calmness, to
quail before forty or fifty men and women, not one of whom was more
intelligent or better educated than myself! But let me write it out if
I can. I accepted Mrs. Fordyce's invitation to a little party. It
was graciously given, and I, fool that I was, thought it was to do
me honor that I was asked. I did not know then that these women of
society will commit a baseness for a new sensation or to gratify an
emotion of curiosity. I have been so admired, so looked up to by the
men who have surrounded me, I never dreamed of being the object of
mere curiosity or amusement. Well, I went. The room was half full of
men and women, talking, laughing, moving about. I was alone, and from
the moment of my entrance into that blaze of light I felt lonely and
weak; but I crossed the room and spoke to my hostess. She greeted
me graciously, and then some one else came up, and I stood aside.
Suddenly the sense of eyes upon me came over me. How those women
stared! Never before had I been among women and felt no bond of
sisterhood. How was it? was I unsexed, or they? There seemed a gulf
between us: I read it in their eyes, it came to me in the air, a
subtle but keen conviction. And how exquisite they were!--so soft and
smooth and white, with no lines on their foreheads or creases round
their mouths. I had never had such a sense of beauty given me before
by anything but pictures. I wondered the men did not kneel to them: I
felt as if I could myself if they would let me. As I stood there, my
heart beating quick, and something in my throat beginning to choke me,
dazzled and bewildered by the scene, a voice said--oh how gently!--in
my ear, "Miss Linton, will you let me take you into the other rooms?
There are one or two pictures you will enjoy." I tried not to start,
but I trembled in spite of myself, the relief was so great. There we
stood--he, Henry Lawrence, taller and handsomer and prouder-looking
than any man in the room, looking down upon me and offering me his
arm! I think I felt as I should if a lifeboat came to take me off a
wreck--in a modified degree, I mean. I took his arm with a few rather
inarticulate words of thanks, and we strolled through the other rooms,
he listening to me with such earnest attentiveness, bending his head
at every word, seeming so absorbed in me, so forgetful of the women
who gazed at me as if I were a pariah, and the men who smiled on them
as they did so. I confess it, I felt as if he stood between me and
the mocking, coldly scrutinizing glances about me. I felt guarded,
protected, and I could not struggle against the feeling, weak though
I knew it was: it seemed irresistible. I suppose, being a woman like
other women, I inherit traditional weakness, and cannot break the
bonds of former generations in a day. Be it as it may, he did not seem
to know or notice that I was not myself: he only seemed interested and
absorbed. I did not feel as if I were taxing his courtesy, and soon
I recovered my self-possession and talked naturally: my spirits rose,
and my natural self-assertion returned to me. I enjoyed looking at the
women, watching their ways and listening to the sound of their voices.
It was a revelation of a new world to me, and I said as much to him.
"What in particular is it," he said, "that strikes you so?"
"I think," I answered, "it is the harmony of the whole effect."
"A thorough-bred woman always produces an harmonious effect," he said.
Something in his tone jarred me, and I said hastily, "I don't think
development should be sacrificed to harmony: incompleteness is better
than perfection sometimes."
He smiled sweetly: "Yes, but I am afraid we should hardly agree about
the development of women, though I should like to hear you talk of
it."
"Why should we not discuss and disagree?"
"I do not like to disagree with a woman at all, especially with a
woman whom I admire," he said, bending his blue eyes on me with a look
such as I had never seen before in a man's eyes. It was what I
suppose would be called a chivalric look; and yet chivalry was only an
improved barbarism.
Mrs. Fordyce came up just then, and introduced some gentlemen to me;
and while they were talking Mr. Lawrence turned away. In a few
moments he was back again with a lovely-looking young girl on his arm,
blushing and yet self-possessed, with the same exquisite simplicity
of manner he has himself. "My cousin Alice Wilton asks me to introduce
her to you, Miss Linton," he said.
I have always--shall I confess it?--patted young girls on the head:
this one I could no more have patronized than I could a statue of
Diana. She was very charming to look at as she stood beside her
cousin, and yet--No, I will make no exception: she was charming in
every way, and I felt more at my ease that a woman had been presented
to me.
Mr. Lawrence put me in my carriage. As he closed the door he said,
"Your maid is not with you?"
I replied that I had none; on which he said to the driver, "Drive
slowly: I mean to walk as far as the hotel with the carriage."
"Won't you get in?" I cried from the window.
He seemed not to hear me, but started off at a rapid pace, and I gave
up the attempt, wondering at what seemed to me an eccentric choice. It
was unnecessary for him to go with me at all, but I thought, "He
has been, I suppose, brought up to think no woman can take care of
herself." He was ready to open the door as I got out, and I longed to
ask him why he had not driven with me; but I hesitated: something tied
my tongue, and in a moment he had said "Good-night," and was gone with
hasty steps into the darkness. I must stop, I am so tired.
_December_ 3. It seems to me I am growing to be a dreadful egotist.
I put nothing down now in this little book but just what concerns
myself--nothing of the great subjects of universal interest which
have always absorbed most of my thoughts, but just my own doings
and sayings. At this very moment I desire only to write about my
afternoon, and the way in which I spent it. I will indulge myself, and
the record may serve me. How it had snowed all day! how it did snow
this afternoon when I started out, wrapped in my waterproof, accoutred
to encounter the storm, and rejoicing in the absence of long skirts
and hooped petticoats! With my India-rubber boots I felt I could plod
through any snow-drift, and I gained a pervading sense of exhilaration
from the beating of the storm in my face. I chose a certain street I
had come to know, which ran straight through the town and on into a
more thinly-settled suburb. It was a good, clear path, and I should
be able to have a splendid walk without meeting probably more than a
dozen people in the course of it. Just as I passed the last square of
closely-built town-houses, and began to come upon the stretching white
landscape before me, as I trudged along, turning my head a little
aside to escape the brunt of the driving snow, I heard an exclamation
of surprise, and a man's voice said, "You _here_, Miss Linton?"
It was he, Mr. Lawrence. There he stood, his eyes brilliant with the
excitement of the storm, his cheek aglow with exercise, looking, as
the old women say, "the very picture of a man." I am very sensitive to
beauty, and his seems to me very great: it draws me to him.
"Yes it is I," I said (we had both stopped). "I wanted exercise and
air, and something to change my frame of mind; so I came out for a
tramp."
He turned with me, and we walked on. In a moment more he said, "Will
you take my arm? It will be easier to keep step and walk fast then."
I took it, and he looked down at me and said, with an inscrutable
smile, which haunts me yet, I suppose because I can't make out its
meaning, "Do you believe in fate?"
"If you mean by fate something which the will is powerless to resist,
against which it is unavailing to struggle, I do not," I answered. "Do
you, Mr. Lawrence?"
He laughed, not a pleasant laugh, albeit musical, but as if his smile
had been one with some hidden meaning in it: "I hardly know what I
believe. Certainly some power seems to lay traps for our wills at
times, and waylay us when they are off duty. As, for instance," he
went on, "I wanted to see you to-day, and I did not go to see you: my
will acted perfectly well, and I seemed able to resist any temptation.
I came out here to walk alone, thinking that I should be even farther
away from you here than elsewhere, when, lo! you start up in my path,
and here we are together. It is just as if some malicious spirit
had mocked me with an idea of my own strength, only to betray me the
better through my weakness." He spoke with an intensity which seemed
out of place, and strangely unlike his usual calm manner. Somehow,
a feeling of great delight had come over me as he spoke. I felt
pleased--why I do not know--at his evident impatience and annoyance.
"But why," said I, "did you turn with me? _There_ would have been the
moment for your will to act."
"You think so? That is hardly fair, Miss Linton. Does one brand a
soldier as a coward and a laggard who has fought and won a battle, and
has sunk exhausted upon his arms to sleep, if he is discomfited and
dismayed when, just as slumber has him in its arms, a fresh foe sets
upon him? No, I _could_ not turn back."
His eyes were bent on me again, and something in them stirred my soul
to its depths. Such a delicious feeling seemed stealing over me--a
feeling of mixed power and weakness. I felt my color rise, but I
looked ahead over the snowfields and said, "I don't see why you should
have turned back. Why should you want to be with me and not be with
me? I wanted to see you too."
I started as he spoke again, for his voice and manner were both
changed--all the quiver and intensity gone out of them. "The 'reason
why' of a mood is hard to find sometimes, and when found one has a
conviction that no one but one's self would see its reasonableness,"
he said with a laugh cold and musical. "Let us talk of something we
can both be sure to understand."
He seemed far away again. For a moment he had seemed so near--nearer,
I think, than I ever remember to have felt a man to be. Then he
talked, and talked very well, and made me talk, though it was not as
easy as it usually is to me, and though we spoke of things that are
generally to me like the sound of a trumpet to the war-horse. My
spirit did not rise: the words would hardly come. I wanted to be alone
and think it over--think over his words, his manner, his voice, the
look in his eyes, and see what they meant, and, if I could, why he had
changed so suddenly to me.
When we had walked some distance farther he himself proposed turning
back, and took me home. As we neared the hotel I could not resist
asking him why he had not come home with me that night in the carriage
instead of walking, or running rather, beside it.
Such a strange look came over his face as I asked him, and his
lips set with a stern expression as he said stiffly, icily, "I had
realized, Miss Linton, how utterly different our ways of looking at
life must be; or else perhaps it is that you do not hold me to be
enough of a knight to consider a woman's position before my own
comfort and pleasure."
"I don't understand you," said I, bewildered. "I _asked_ you to get
into the carriage."
"I know it," he replied; "but in such matters no gentleman can allow
a woman's kindly impulse of courtesy to compromise her in any way: he
must think first of her, and all the more because she has thought of
him."
"What do you mean by compromise?" I exclaimed. "I am quite independent
enough of public opinion to be a free agent in such matters: you must
not forget that I am a very different woman from a society belle."
"Quite true," he answered, stung by my tone, "but I do not claim to be
unsexed because--because--" He stammered.
"Because I am? You are very right to live according to your lights,
Mr. Lawrence, but I must decline to see life by them. Good-night!" His
tone was more than I could bear, and I turned abruptly from him: we
had reached the hotel, and without a word more I ran up stairs to my
parlor. The door was ajar: I entered hastily and pushed it to, but he
had followed me on the instant, and now stood with it in his hand.
"I cannot let you send me away without saying one word," he said. "I
never meant to say that you were unsexed. I beg you will forgive me if
I offended you. I had no right in the world to judge for you. It was a
presumptuous impulse to protect, to guard you that prompted my action
the other night--my words just now. Forgive me. As for my prejudices,
they shall not displease you again: only remember as my excuse that
a man of my class has but one way of looking at a woman
whom--he--" He drew a long breath, hesitated, and then said with an
effort--"admires."
The word was cold and formal, but his voice and manner were warm and
earnest. His mood seemed changed: he seemed again near me, and an
irresistible attraction toward him possessed me, body and soul. There
was something in his very attitude, as he stood by the door with his
head bent down, that seemed to win me. What was it that came over me?
What subtle power is it by which one nature draws another without any
apparent or audible summons? I do not know; but this I know, that
as he said the words I have just written down a floodgate within me
seemed raised, and with a mighty rush my spirit bounded toward him.
And yet I did not move.
"Forgive you?" I said. "Yes, a thousand times!"
He looked up, said, "Thank you!" very softly, and turned to the door.
When he reached it he stopped, turned again, and came up to me. "Will
you give me your hand in token of forgiveness and friendship?" he
said.
I said nothing, but held out my hand. He took it in both of his, and
then in a moment more my arms were about his neck, and our lips had
met. He kissed me again and again, held me very close for an instant,
and then, untwining my arms from their hold, he abruptly left
the room. That was three hours ago, and I have sat here thinking,
thinking, ever since. What does it all mean? Writing it out has helped
me, as I thought it would. Two things have become clear to me: I am
quite conscious that I have sought Mr. Lawrence at least as much as he
has me. I have always believed it to be as natural for a woman who was
once freed from the foolish prejudices of education and tradition to
hold out her hand to any one who attracted her as for a man to seek a
woman. Now I have proved it to be true. He does attract me. Why deny
it, either to myself or him? I do not, I will not. This I see and know
to be true. The other thing which seems clear to me is, that he is
only drawn by one side of his nature--that he does not want to love
me, perhaps can only half love me. Then, if that be so, I have done
wrong to show him my feelings. With his ideas about women, he would
feel it to be almost unmanly to fold his arms on his breast if a woman
put hers about his neck, as I did; and I fear I forced my love upon
him. I feel as I should think a man feels who has taken an unfair
advantage of a woman's fancy for him, and got from her graces and
favors to which her whole heart does not assent. I am not ashamed of
loving him: bear me witness, little book, I am not ashamed of loving
him, nor indeed of telling him so; only I would not "betray his will,"
as he said this afternoon. No, no: if he comes to me, it must be with
a whole and willing heart. Now that's resolved, what next? Write
to him of course, and tell him I am sorry to have led him into this
position, and say, "I won't do so again." Did a woman ever write to a
man before and beg his pardon for letting him kiss her? for throwing
her arms about his neck? I doubt it, but what does that matter? I
belong to the new era, and I will be the "Coming Woman." I laugh, but
I feel, after all, more like crying. Good-night, little book. I will
write to Mr. Lawrence in the morning. Now for bed.
_Dec_. 4. I wrote to him this morning, and sent my note by a
messenger. I could not work, I could neither think nor write, till his
answer came. He had made the bearer of my note wait, and wrote me
just a few words to ask if he might not see me to-night. I wrote back
"Yes," and now it is only four o'clock: he will not come till
eight. It seems an impossible time to wait, and I must not waste
the afternoon as I did the morning. Let me see: shall I finish that
article on English love-poetry, past and present, in which I mean to
show how the germ of degradation and decay always existed, even in the
chivalric idea of woman's nature and sphere, and how it has gone on
developing itself in the poetry which is its truest expression, till
we have got its different stages from the ideal of the school which
really had a gloss of elevation and fine sentiment about it--the woman
of Herrick and Ben Jonson, and later on of Lovelace and Montrose, to
the woman of Owen Meredith and Swinburne, who, instead of inspiring
men to die for her honor, makes them rather wish her to live to be
the instrument of their pleasure? It was not a bad idea, and I think
I could have traced the gradations very well. But I cannot write, I
cannot think. Let me recall my letter to him. Ah, here is one of the
dozen copies I made before I could make it what I wanted:
"MY DEAR MR. LAWRENCE: I must ask you to forgive me, for I am
conscious of having been thoughtless and selfish. I yielded to an
impulse yesterday, and I put you in an unfair position. I never meant
to do it, and I will never do it again. I trust we may be friends, and
I am
"Yours truly,
"MARGARET LINTON."
That was all I said: I wish now I had said more. Ah me! will evening
never come?
* * * * *
Before I go to bed I must write a word or two. Ah, how much happier I
am than I was last night! He came at eight punctually. I trembled all
over when I shook hands with him: I think he must have seen it, but
he said nothing. What a wonderful thing this thing they call high
breeding is! One feels it in a moment, and yet it seems intangible,
indescribable. He has it, I should think, in perfection, and he is the
only person I have ever known who possessed it, except, perhaps that
young girl, his cousin, whom he presented to me at the party. For
a while we talked--at least he did--easily and pleasantly, and then
suddenly he said, smiling at me, "Do you know, I think you are a very
generous woman?"
"Do you? Why?" said I.
"Because you are willing to shoulder other people's peccadilloes.
Don't you know a woman should never do that, especially for a man, who
is naturally selfish and can always take care of himself?"
I did not like the word _peccadilloes_, but I only said, "So can a
woman take care of herself."
"Do you really believe that?" he said with a gleam in his blue eyes.
"Really, I do. I am sure, at least, that I can take care of myself."
"Are you?" said he. We were sitting beside each other on the sofa, and
in another moment he had put his arm about me and drawn me to him. I
could not resist him--his voice, his eyes, his sweet words. I loved
him and was happy. It was a heaven of delight to be so near him; and
how natural it seemed! He said little, nor did I speak many words:
he held me in his arms, kissed me many times on my hands, cheeks and
lips; and then suddenly, almost abruptly, he left me, pleading an
engagement. But my happiness did not go with him. I am happy in the
conviction that he loves me, and I feel strong to make him all my own.
He will come again to-morrow. He did not say so: no need to say so--he
will surely come. He is poor, I know. What of that? I earn a good
income, and together we can defy the world. I shall be able to convert
him from his prejudices and narrow notions, now that he loves me.
What an acquisition to our cause! He loves me as I am. I have yielded
nothing, I have sacrificed nothing--not one iota of principle, not an
inch of ground. He has come to me because he loves me. I can influence
him to think as I do of woman's nature and sphere. My single life will
convince him of the justice of my ideas, and having known me, he can
never "decline on a lower range of feelings and a narrower sphere than
mine."
I am triumphant, I am successful: I could sing a song of rejoicing.
Have I not always felt sure that a woman's true attraction does not
depend on the false attitude in which she is placed by men? This man
has seen me as I am, and I have drawn him to me.
_Dec_. 11. It seems scarcely possible that it is but one week since I
wrote those words above, yet the date stares me in the face, and tells
me that but seven days and seven nights have passed since then. It
seems to me as if all my past life held less of emotion, of
sensation, less of _living_, than this one week; and what absolute,
uncompromising pain it has all been! It seems to me as if I had been
through every stage of suffering in succession; yet to what does it
all amount? what has caused it all? what has racked me with all these
various gradations of torture? Just this: since that night, that
triumphant, happy night, I have neither heard from nor seen Mr.
Lawrence. Silence, unbroken silence, has been between us. I have
borne it, but oh how badly!--not calmly or with quiet self-control
and strength; but I have borne it with passionate out-cry and restless
struggles. I have sobbed myself to sleep at night: I have roamed
aimlessly about during the day, or lain on a lounge, book in hand,
pretending to read, but in reality listening, waiting, longing to hear
his step, his knock, to have some message, some sign, come to me from
him. Then it has seemed to me as if there was but one other human
creature in the world, and that was he--as if all the manifold needs
and wants, losses and gains, of humanity had no longer the slightest
meaning for me. I have no sense of any ambition, any aim, any
obligation pressing upon me. I find nothing within myself to feed upon
but a few pale memories of him, and my whole future seems concentred
in his existence. I do not think I can bear to live as I am now. It
is all profoundly dark to me. Why does he not come? I can think of no
possible explanation--none. I am resolved to think it out to an end,
and then act: it is this passiveness which is killing me.
I am resolved: I will write, and will ask him to come to me, and when
he comes I will say what I feel. Some mistaken hesitation is keeping
him away. I will say, "We love one another: let us unite our lives and
live them together, yoked in all exercise of noble end."
_Letter from Henry Lawrence to George Manning_.
DECEMBER 11.
DEAR GEORGE: I will begin by telling the truth, and here it is: I am
in a scrape. I know you won't think much of the simple fact, but the
scrape is very different from any of my former ones, and I don't see
how I can get out of it honorably. I can see you raise your eyebrows,
and hear you say with an incredulous smile, "Why, Harry, I have heard
you ridicule honor a thousand times where women are concerned, and of
course this scrape involves a woman." You are right there--it does;
or rather a woman has involved me, and there lies the scrape. As for
honor, I laugh at most of the things I believe in, just because it's
the fashion of the day--and I belong to the day I live in--_not_ to
wear one's heart on one's sleeve. Then, too, sometimes one finds that
logically one thinks a thing, an idea, a feeling absurd, and yet when
one's life comes into collision with it, somehow up springs something
within you which I suppose might be called an instinct, and forces you
to respect and cherish and uphold the very feeling or idea which you
have always ridiculed.
Well, I'll tell you my story, and then perhaps you'll tell me what to
do. About--let me see--a month ago I went with some men one evening,
out of pure idleness, to a public meeting. The men who spoke were
all stupid, and roared and mouthed stuff "full of sound and fury,
signifying nothing," and I was thinking how I could get away and have
a game of cards at the club, when suddenly a voice like music smote
upon my astonished ears. I looked up, and there on the platform stood
a woman, speaking, by Jove! and doing it well, too. I listened and
looked, and should have enjoyed it if it had not disgusted me so in
theory. I must confess, barring the fact of her being there, there
was nothing objectionable about her. She was handsome, and had a
magnificent voice: she talked a hundred per cent, better than the men
who preceded her; and it was well for the meeting that it was over
when she stopped: any other speaker would have made a terrible
anti-climax. The two fellows with me proposed our being introduced to
her, and half from curiosity, half--I swore to speak the truth--half,
George, from attraction (hear me out, old fellow: she was
feminine-looking and very handsome)--I went forward and was presented.
She interested and attracted me, the more so perhaps that from the
moment our eyes met I was conscious that there existed between us a
strong natural affinity, latent, but capable of being developed. I
called on her the next day, and made my cousin Clara invite her to a
party. Clara, who is thoroughly unconventional, and would do anything
to please me, did so without a second thought. But imagine my distress
when, as I entered the drawing-room a little late, I saw my fair
Amazon standing in a doorway, not only alone, but alone in the midst
of curious and scornful glances. My courtesy was at stake, my chivalry
was roused, and she looked very handsome and very like any other woman
brought to bay. She had the most charming expression, compounded of
bewilderment and defiance, on her face when my eyes fell on her,
and it changed to one that pleased me still better (which I won't
describe) when our eyes met. You, you unbelieving dog, think that
because she is "strong-minded" she must be repulsive and immodest. But
there is a charming inconsistency about female human nature.
But to go on with my story. I felt quite like a champion, I assure
you, for, after all, it was shabby of the women to give her the cold
shoulder, and cowardly of the men to stand aloof; so I devoted myself
to her, and asked Alice Wilton to be presented to her. Miss Linton has
not a particle of _usage du monde_, nor is she what would be called
high-bred; but she is self-possessed and gentle in her manner, and
makes a good enough figure in the company of ladies and gentlemen.
Here I confess my weakness. I did think her very attractive, and I
was conscious that I had a power over her which I did not forbear to
exercise. The result of this was that when we parted she had every
reason to expect to see me very soon again, and I had inwardly
resolved never to see her again if I could help it. I did keep away,
and then luck would have it that I met her taking a walk one
snowy afternoon. I suspected she had come out to get away from the
remembrance of me, as I had to get away from the desire to see her;
and she was so moved by seeing me that I could not help showing her
that I cared for her, and perhaps seemed to care more than I did.
It was a sore temptation, and I yielded to it. Wrong? Do you think I
don't know that it was wrong? But the worst is to come. I walked back
with her, and an accident led to our having one of those conversations
that people have when they are under the influence of emotion and
cannot give it vent in its natural way, but must do something or talk.
If I could have put my arms about her and kissed her, we could have
got on without words: as it was, I said I hardly know what, and she,
being very much in earnest and very unsophisticated, showed me how
much she cared for me. I vow, George, if I had had a moment to think,
to gather my self-control--But I had not, and so we ended by my
finding her arms round my neck, after all. I rushed away with hardly
a word, and walked and walked, and thought and thought. The next day
comes a note from her--what one would call a manly, straightforward
acknowledgment that she had led me into a position that was an unfair
one, and that she regretted it. Nothing franker or more generous could
have been conceived, but somehow it roused within me the impulse to
make her conscious of the weakness of her sex. My masculine conceit
rose and demanded an opportunity of self-assertion. I went to her,
and she seemed more attractive than ever. Her independence and
self-reliance nettled me, and I was mean enough to yield to the desire
to see if she could resist me. But I was richly punished, for the
knowledge rolled over me like a wave that she loved me, and I left
her, stung by the consciousness of having taken an unworthy advantage
of a simple and trustful nature. I know that this is high tragedy, and
will meet with your displeasure. I can hear you say, "Confound you,
Harry! why don't you marry her?"
Very easy to say; but look at the situation, which is not so simple
as you probably think. Of course any girl of my own class would never
build an edifice of eternal and sacred happiness on such a foundation
as a few warm looks and eloquent words, or even a caress, might
furnish. In plain words, neither she nor I would think marriage
a necessary or even likely sequence to such a preamble. But it is
different with Miss Linton. I am sure, I am confident--laugh if you
like--that she has never given any man what she has given me, either
in degree or kind. Her eccentric notions about women's nature and
position would protect her from tampering with her own feelings or
those of another; and then, too, there has been so much hard reality,
so much serious business, in her life that the sweet follies of
girlhood have not been hers. Shall I say that I cannot help feeling
her innocence and inexperience make her more attractive? I am
not sure, even, that they do not balance her self-reliance and
independence, which certainly repel me. All this I did not dream of
at first. I am not a scoundrel or a coxcomb. It came to me the other
afternoon all at once, when she threw her arms about my neck. I have
been selfish, and perhaps stupid. "Why not marry her?" you say. I have
asked myself that question, and this is my answer: No passion in the
world could make me insensible to the humiliation of her career, and I
should be obliged not only to accept it in the past, but to recognize
it in the future. My wife must be my social equal and the natural
associate of high-bred women. I must be able to take any man by the
throat who looks at or speaks of her as does not please me. This
woman's character, intellect, manners and appearance are public
property for all purposes of criticism and comment. She is unsexed.
My wife must be dependent on me, clinging to me. This woman has always
stood, and will always stand alone; and yet I have thought that she
was capable of such deep, strong, concentrated feeling that the man
who owned her heart might do with her as he liked. This, I admit, has
tempted me to think of marriage, for, after all, George, it would be
a luxury to be very much loved. This woman would love a man in another
fashion from that which prevails in society.
But I have put the idea away from me, and here I am, determined not to
marry her, and yet feeling that I have unintentionally wronged her.
I have not been near her these seven days. I know she expects me--she
has every right to expect me--but I will not go till I have decided
what to say and do. I am too weak to go otherwise. Write to me,
George, and advise me; and remember that she is not like the women of
whom we have both known so many. She has no more idea of flirting than
had Hippolyta queen of the Amazons or Zenobia queen of Palmyra--those
two strong-minded women of old days. I am joking, but I assure you
I am not jolly. I am afraid, George, that she truly loves me, and,
unsexed though she be, love has made a woman of her, and I fear is
unmanning me.
Yours always,
HENRY LAWRENCE.
P.S. I open my letter to say that it is too late for you to write when
you receive this: it will be over. I have just got a note from her
asking to see me. I shall speak frankly, but I feel like a hound. As
ever, H.L.
_Journal_.
_Dec_. 11. I am resolved to write it all down as it happened. I wrote
him a note this afternoon, and this evening he came--handsome, pale
and quiet. He walked up to me, took my hand in his, pressed it and let
it go. He did not wait for me to speak, fortunately, for I could
not have spoken: I could not have commanded my voice. He said--oh
so quietly and steadily!--"I should have come to see you to-night, I
think, if you had not asked me: I had so much to say."
"I thought you would never come," I answered.
He rose and walked hurriedly up and down the room, then paused in
front of me and said--his words seem burned into my brain--"You are
a woman who deserves frankness, and I will be utterly and absolutely
frank with you. I have done very wrong in behaving as I have done.
I had no right, no justification, for it, and I beg you to forgive
me--humbly I beg it on my knees;" and he knelt before me.
I was bewildered and pained beyond measure. I thought I knew not what,
but a tissue of wild absurdities rushed through my brain to account
for his words--anything rather than think he did not love me.
"With many women this confession would be unnecessary," he went on.
"You are genuine and simple, and attach a real meaning to every word
and act, because you do not yourself speak or act without meaning. How
can I, then, part from you without asking your forgiveness for what I
have said and done?"
"Part from me!" I exclaimed, holding out my hands to him: he had risen
now. "Oh, Mr. Lawrence, let us be frank with one another. There is no
need to part. Do you think your poverty is any barrier between us? It
is but an added bond. Can I not work too? And we will learn to think
alike where we now differ. Why should we part? We love each other. Why
should we not marry? What can part us but our own wills? I love you,
you know it, and I think you love me; at least I am sure I could
teach you to love me." He stood while I spoke, his arms hanging by his
sides. What more I said I hardly know. I think--I am sure, indeed--I
told him, standing there, how I loved him. I felt I must speak it once
to one human being. A great foresight came to me: I seemed to see my
life stretching before me, long, lonely, desolate: no other love like
this could come, full well I knew that, and I could not enter on that
dreary path without setting free my soul. Yes, I spoke out to him.
Words of power they were--power and fire and longing. Perhaps I
alone, of all women, have told a man of my love when I knew it to be
hopeless. My hope had died when he first spoke. Had he loved me, he
had spoken otherwise. That I was woman enough to see; but if it be
unwomanly to feel in every pulse-throb the need of expression, to know
that I should die of suppressed passion, tenderness, love, if I did
not speak it all, did not tell him once how I loved him, how I could
have lived his servant, his slave, happy and content--how his smile
seemed the sun and his caresses heaven to me--how I was hungry with
the hunger of my very soul to spend on him the garnered treasure of my
heart,--if this be unwomanly, I was indeed unsexed. I seemed exalted
out of myself, and full of power.
He heard me, and it moved him. He spoke again when I had finished. He
had not lifted his eyes to mine, and did not then. He said, "I could
not marry you: it would be the worst possible thing for both of us.
Your life would be miserable--mine most wretched. You must see that
there are other things in life besides love, and other things which
influence its happiness. Everything would separate us except our
personal affinity. Our education, our ideas, beliefs, our past lives,
our aims for the future, make a gulf between us. We could never bridge
it," He paused.
I laughed aloud: he looked at me then in surprise. "I laugh," said I,
"because I see how absurd it was to fancy that you loved me. A bridge
between us! If you loved me as I love you, our love would turn water
into land, melt mountains into plains: we would cross dry-shod to one
another."
"Do you love me so?" he said, his blue eyes gleaming, and making
a step toward me. I had power enough to make him feel, and feel
strongly, but that was not enough.
"No," I said, "Mr. Lawrence, you must take nothing from me now: I can
give nothing now."
"But if I want all?" he said.
I laughed again. "But you do not," I said. "I have told you I love
you and would marry you. You cannot, you say. Then that ends all
between us. I love you too much to be able to give you only what you
give me."
"We cannot marry," he repeated: "it would be ruin to both of us."
"Go away!" I said: "I would rather be alone." I was spent, and felt
feeble and weak.
"Let me tell you, first, that I admire you, esteem you, infinitely:
let me say this before I go; and you will think of me kindly." He said
this pleadingly.
I looked at him wonderingly. Did he not _yet_ know how much I loved
him? My courage and pride were ebbing fast away. Faintly I said,
"Before you go kneel down in front of me, and let me touch your
forehead with my lips." He did so, and I bent forward and took his
head in both my hands and kissed it. Somehow as I did it the strange
thought came to me that if I had ever had a son, just so I have kissed
his head. It was a yearning feeling, with such tenderness in it that
my heart seemed dissolving. Many times. I kissed it and held it, and
then, "Good-bye, my only love," I said. "I could have loved you very
well."
His eyes were wet with tears as he raised his head. "I shall never
forget you: you are nobleness itself," he said. "God bless and prosper
you, Miss Linton!" Then he went.
That is all, all, and life is where it was a month ago; only, "I wear
my rue with a difference." He was my inferior. I was higher and nobler
and purer than he, but I loved him, and the greatest joy I could know
would have been to lead my life with him. So it is over, and this book
had best be put away. I will go back to my old life, and see what I
can make of it. I am glad to have known what love meant: I shall be
gladder after a while, when this ache is over. If he could but have
loved me as I loved him--if he could! But he could not, and it was not
to be. I must learn to be again a strong-minded woman.
_Letter from Henry Lawrence to George Manning._
DEAR GEORGE: I'm off for Europe to-morrow. I behaved _like a man_ and
broke the whole thing off. She behaved like a man too, told me how
much she loved me, and then accepted the position. I feel like a girl
who has jilted a fellow, and it's a very poor way to feel. Never flirt
with a strong-minded woman. I believe she cared for me, and I think
very likely when I'm fifty I shall think I was a fool not to have
braved it out and married her. I'm sure if I don't think it then,
I shall when I reach the next world; but then, like the girl in
Browning's poem, "she will pass, nor turn her face."
I feel very blue, and I think I'd better ask Alice to marry me. Yours,
H.L.
MARSHALL NEIL.
THE KING OF BAVARIA.
Of all the prominent personages who, through their official position
or individual power, or both combined, occupy at present the eye
of the public, probably not one is more unjustly criticised or
more generally misunderstood than Ludwig II., king of Bavaria. As
a reigning monarch, young, handsome, secluded in his habits and
unmarried, he is of course exposed to all the inquisitive observation
and exaggerated gossip which the feminine curiosity and masculine envy
of a court and capital can supply--gossip which is eagerly listened
to by the annual crowd of foreigners who spend a few days in Munich
to visit the Pinakothek, listen to a Wagner opera, and catch, if
possible, a glimpse of the romantic young king; and is by them carried
home to find public circulation at third hand through the columns of
sensation newspapers. And when to this personal criticism is added
the strife of opinion over his political acts, and the ill-will of the
extreme Church party in consequence of his liberal tendencies, it may
easily be believed that his real character is but little known, and is
in many cases deliberately falsified. A brief review of the facts and
circumstances of his reign may serve to correct, in some degree, the
false impressions which have so long prevailed.
In 1864, in the midst of the confusion of the Schleswig-Holstein war,
which was then agitating all Germany, King Max died, and his eldest
son, Ludwig, only nineteen years old, was summoned from the quiet
routine of his university studies to ascend the throne of Bavaria. In
childhood his health had been extremely delicate, and on that account
he had been educated in unusual privacy--training which, joined to
his naturally reserved and meditative disposition, and the various
disenchantments of his public career, may satisfactorily account for
his present confirmed love of solitude. The position to which he was
so unexpectedly called was an exceedingly difficult one for a mind
filled, as his was, with ideal visions of liberty and progress,
and totally inexperienced in the ways of a selfish world and in the
profundity of Jesuitical intrigues; and the unavoidable embarrassments
of the time had been increased by the course of his immediate
predecessors. Ludwig I., through a sentimental love of the
picturesque, had encouraged the multiplication of monasteries and
convents and brotherhoods of wandering friars, and Maximilian, though
naturally tolerant, and still more liberalized by the influence of his
Protestant queen, was a firm believer in the divine right of kings;
and having joined hands with the clerical party in putting down the
revolution of 1848, found himself afterward so far compromised in
their behalf that he was unable to oppose their aggrandizing plans; so
that in his reign the priests, and especially the Jesuits, attained to
a greater degree of power than they had ever before known.
The young king for a while carried on the government after his
father's policy, and with the same ministerial officers; but he
soon began to show signs of independence of character, the first
manifestation of which was an attempt to curtail the power of the
Jesuits, especially in the matter of public instruction. This was,
of course, enough to rouse the enmity of the whole Society of Jesus
against him, and its members have been busy ever since in thwarting
all his plans and doing their utmost to render him unpopular with his
subjects.
Unfortunately, the king soon gave his people a plausible excuse for
fault-finding by the unbounded favor which he bestowed upon Wagner,
whose ideas and whose music were at that time alike obnoxious to the
majority of Germans. The favorite theory of this great genius, but
arrogant and unscrupulous man, was the elevation of the German nation
through the aesthetic and moral influence of a properly developed
theatre; and the king was ready to offer every facility for the
practical realization of this visionary plan. But the Jesuits scented
heresy in the alliance between the experienced composer and the
youthful dreamer, and the liberal party were indignant that Wagner's
affairs should be made a cabinet question at a time of such great
national anxiety. The dissatisfaction rose to such a height at last
that it became necessary for Wagner to leave Munich, and for his royal
patron to break off, apparently at least, the unpopular intimacy. The
people were right, to some extent, in denouncing Wagner, whose course
in Munich, as elsewhere, had been selfish and ungrateful, and in
blaming the king for indulging his individual tastes to the neglect
of his duties as a ruler; but the youth and inexperience of the latter
were a sufficient excuse for excess of enthusiasm, and reproach may
well be forgotten in astonishment and admiration at the capacity of
this mere boy to understand and feel those wonderful musical dramas
which were then almost universally laughed at or condemned, though
their gradual but steady rise in public appreciation seems now to
warrant their claim to be considered as "the music of the future."
In December, 1865, a little more than a year after his accession,
King Ludwig acknowledged the union of Italy under Victor Emmanuel--an
important step, which at once arrayed the Catholic Church against him
as its enemy. He also endeavored to effect a reconciliation between
Vienna and Berlin, but his mediation did not avail; nor could he
hinder the alliance of Bavaria with Austria in the war of 1866. But as
soon as peace was concluded he quitted the policy of his father, which
he had hitherto, for the most part, followed, and selected as members
of his cabinet men of liberal principles and progressive ideas,
calling to, its head Prince Hohenlohe, a known friend of Prussia and a
firm opposer of the Austrian alliance.
One of the first projects of the new ministry was to free the public
schools, as far as possible, from the influence of the clergy. These
and other liberal movements aroused the whole force of the
Ultramontane party, and a terrible strife ensued, resulting in
Hohenlohe's resignation, which the king was unwillingly obliged to
accept. Hohenlohe was succeeded by Count Bray, a man devoted to
feudalism and the Church, who had been minister under Ludwig I. and
Maximilian II. The clerical party were exultant in their triumph. They
saw that trouble was brewing between France and Prussia, and trusted
that Count Bray would be able to prevent any alliance between the
latter state and Bavaria. They would have preferred a coalition with
France and Austria against Prussia and the kingdom of Italy, with the
ultimate purpose of reinstating the pope as a temporal sovereign. To
this end they were willing to degrade Bavaria to a province of Rome,
and would gladly have dethroned the king if they could have done so;
their hatred of him having been increased in the mean time by his
public recognition of Dr. Döllinger's protest against the decree of
papal infallibility. But when the crisis came their hopes were
speedily frustrated by the king's prompt decision to stand by Prussia
in the contest. He at once declared his intention to Parliament, which
had until then appeared willing to grant only the supplies necessary
to maintain Bavaria in a state of armed neutrality. The decision was
the king's alone--"_My word is sacred_" was his principle of
action--but after he had taken the first step his ministers supported
him throughout the struggle with patriotic zeal. He immediately issued
a proclamation calling his people to arms against their hereditary
enemy, and his message, "_We South Germans are with you_" was the
first pledge of sympathy and assistance that cheered the king and the
citizens at Berlin.
King Ludwig's conduct in this matter is especially deserving of
praise, because his kingdom is of sufficient size and importance to
make its absorption into the empire a great sacrifice of individual
pride; particularly when it is remembered that Prussia, of which
Bavaria had long been jealous, was to be the leading power in the new
union of states, and Prussia's king the emperor. But from the time of
Ludwig's accession he had looked forward with hope to a consolidation
of the numerous states of Germany into one nation; and the
opportunity, though coming sooner than he or any one else had
anticipated, found him not unprepared for the change. When the storm
against Hohenlohe was at its height, he said, "Does that party really
think that the steps which have already been taken toward the unity of
Germany will be retracted? Then they do not know me. I have not read
Schiller in vain. I too can say, 'All the power, all the influence,
which belongs to me as a constitutional prince I will lay in the
scale of the idea of the unity of Germany.' I should greatly prefer to
devote myself to peaceful pursuits, to clear the way for my people to
elevate themselves through education and material prosperity, and to
help them open the noble treasure of ideas bequeathed to them by our
thinkers and poets; but when a foreign enemy is standing at Germany's
gates I hold it my duty not only to give my army, my lands and my
property for the public good, but to offer myself to the commander
in-chief as a common soldier of the united German empire." On another
occasion he said, "I acknowledge in my country only one party--that
of truly noble men, who, through extensive knowledge, pure thoughts
and useful deeds, serve the commonwealth, whether these be skillful
workmen, citizens, peasants, scholars, honest magistrates, who, like
myself, serve the people conscientiously, officers who are friends as
well as leaders of the soldiers, worthy priests of all confessions,
who are real physicians of souls, righteous judges, teachers of my
people, or noblemen who add to the distinction of title that of true
nobility of soul, and set a worthy example in all good things: all
these, and only these, are of my party."
And again: "I desire of my Creator not the satisfaction of gratified
ambition, but the joy of knowing that after my death it will be said
of me, 'Ludwig II. strove to be a true friend to his people, and he
succeeded in making them happier." And again: "It would gratify me
more to obtain a true solution of my country's social problems than to
become, by force of arms, ruler of all Europe; nor should I be willing
to incur the responsibility of a single life lost through my pursuit
of any selfish plan."
These quotations are sufficient to show the enlightened views of the
king in regard to his duties as a ruler; and his whole conduct since
his accession has proved his desire to free his subjects from the
chains of bigotry and superstition in which they have so long been
bound. His constant opposition to the machinations of the Jesuits,
his increasing neglect of the religious shows and ceremonies in which
Munich delights, and his open support of Dõllinger and the liberal
Catholics, indicate plainly enough that he is no slave of the Church
of which he is by birth and training a member; but his example and
influence cannot, as yet, effect much against the strong majority of
Ultramontanists in Parliament and the crowds of priests who still hold
spiritual sway over the greater portion of his people. One peculiar
hindrance to the success of any progressive measure in Bavaria lies in
the absurd regulation which makes every ex-cabinet minister a member
of a separate government council, the consent of which must be
obtained before any new royal or parliamentary decree can be put in
force; and as the majority of these ex-ministers are Ultramontanists
or otherwise behind the times, it will be seen that the progressive
party, though with the king at their head, are constantly thwarted
by this auxiliary force of the Jesuits and old fogies outside the
government.
With regard to the private life of the king, his secluded habits are
a source of general complaint. The Bavarians, and especially the
citizens of Munich, would like him to mix freely with his people in
the streets and at places of public resort, as Ludwig I. was in the
habit of doing, and to settle down with wife and children around
him, after the manner of good King Max; to head all their festive
processions, preside at the opening of their annual fairs, and lend
himself to legendary customs which have long lost their significance,
and to social gayeties in which he can find no pleasure. And because
he refuses to take his airings in the crowded streets, to head
the processions on Corpus Christi and St. John's Day, to wash the
disciples' feet on Holy Thursday, to preside at the Michaelmas
horse-races and puppet-shows, and to marry for the sake of increasing
the brilliancy of the court and perpetuating the Wittelsbach dynasty,
he is denounced alike by devotees and worldlings, who judge him, not
by what he does that is good and useful, but by what he does not do
to gratify them. Because he spends the greater part of the year in
retirement at his castles in the country, coming to Munich only for
the session of Parliament in the winter, he is accused of indifference
to the prosperity of his state and the welfare of his subjects.
But he himself says, "It is incumbent upon a prince to meditate upon
the duties of his calling, which he can surely do better when alone
with God and Nature than in the confusion of a court." His ministers
and all who have occasion to approach him in a business capacity
declare that at every such interview they are surprised at his
thorough knowledge of the subject under discussion, as also at his
keen insight into character and motives.
To an unprejudiced observer--say to an intelligent foreigner who
remains in Bavaria long enough, not only to hear all the gossip, but
to see and judge for himself as to the merits of the case--the
career of this young king is exceedingly interesting and worthy of
admiration. It is something, in these times of political intrigue and
diplomatic evasion, that a king can say, "My word is sacred," without
awakening in any mind a remembrance of broken faith and forgotten
obligations. It is something, amid the corruptions of a dissolute
capital and the temptations of a royal court, that the sovereign,
young, full of tender sentiment, and unprotected by the marriage tie,
lives on with virtue unimpeached; not even the bitterest enemy daring
to breathe a word against the purity of this modern Lohengrin. It is
something that a man born to the splendors of a throne should
prefer to these the simplicity of Nature, the solitude of woods
and mountains, the companionship of music that searches the soul's
sincerity, and of books that have no recognition of royalty in their
announcement of immortal and universal truths.
In the endless criticism of which the king is the subject attention is
often called, sometimes in pity, sometimes in blame, to the fact that
he has no intimate friend or friends. Those who make this reproach
forget that his station demands a certain degree of isolation, unless
he would lay himself open to the charge of favoritism, and the object
of his preference to the flatteries and manoeuvrings of the parasites
that infest a court. Of the men of his own age whose rank would
entitle them to associate with the king on terms of familiarity, there
is not one who has sufficient sympathy with his tastes and pursuits
to be chosen by him as a companion; and the tyranny of etiquette
and custom forbids him to seek out a congenial friend from among the
untitled scholars and thinkers who judge him tenderly and justly from
afar. Moreover, his early unfortunate essays in this direction may
well have taught him to be reserved and cautious in be-stowing his
confidence and love. The man whose splendid genius enthralled, and
still enthralls, the intellect of the king had not the moral qualities
to secure his esteem; the woman whose beauty once took his senses
captive he soon found to be unworthy of his heart; and disappointments
such as these are a lesson for a lifetime to a character such as his.
Fortunately, he has abundant resources within himself for the
entertainment of his self-chosen solitude. The education which was so
early interrupted by a summons to the throne has been continued with
zeal through the study of the best authors in various languages. He
always has some favorite work at hand for the edification of a chance
mood or unoccupied moment; and in his frequent short journeys, however
slight provision he may make for his wardrobe, a port-manteau well
filled with books is sure to accompany him. When in the country a good
portion of his time is spent on horseback. With a single attendant at
some distance behind him, he rides for hours, stopping occasionally at
some peasant's cottage or roadside inn to refresh himself with a glass
of water or a simple meal, treating his temporary entertainers the
while with an unreserved friendliness which has won him the devoted
affection of his lowly neighbors, and which he never displays within
the precincts of the court.
The king's favorite residence is Hohenschwangau, where he is building
a noble castle upon the site of a ruin which was originally a Roman
fortress and afterward a feudal stronghold. The new building is
modeled after the style of the Wartburg, and is composed of
various kinds of stone brought from different parts of Germany and
Switzerland, and selected for their beauty and durability. The work
has been in progress for about two years, and will probably require
ten or twelve years more to finish it, as the season for outdoor labor
in that mountainous region is necessarily short.. The surrounding
scenery is magnificent: lakes, mountains, gorges, waterfalls, gloomy
forests, sunny meadows, all that is grand and beautiful in Nature, are
here comprised within a single view.
The present castle stands on the spur of an adjacent hill, and
commands the same extensive prospect. Though of moderate size (too
small, indeed, to accommodate at the same time the king and the
queen-mother with their respective suites, for which reason it is
occupied by each only during the absence of the other), the appearance
of the castle is imposing, and its interior decorations render it
a most interesting point for the tourist, as well as a delightful
residence for its proprietors. The walls of all the principal
apartments are adorned with frescoes painted by some of the best
German artists, each room being devoted to a special subject. There is
the "Hall of the Swan-Knight," containing illustrations of that
most charming legend, the foundation of the world's best opera,
_Lohengrin_; the "Schwangau Chamber," with pictures concerning the
history of the locality; the "Bertha Chamber," containing the story of
the parents of Charlemagne; the "Ladies' Chamber," portraying the
life of German women in the Middle Ages, the principal figure being
a portrait of Agnes, wife of Otto von Wittelsbach, an ancestor of the
royal house; the "Hall of Heroes," containing illustrations of the
Vilkina Saga, Dietrich of Berne being supposed to have lived at
Hohenschwangau; the "Knights' Chamber," representing the knightly
customs of the Middle Ages; the "Oriental Chamber," with frescoes
recalling King Maximilian's travels in the East; and several other
rooms, in each of which is commemorated some striking point of German
history or some interesting record of national manners. The furniture
of all these apartments is rich and tasteful; and scattered here and
there are little indications of home-life which lend a new charm to
the stately abode. Thus, upon a table loaded with costly and beautiful
objects are two exquisite portraits, on porcelain, of the king and his
brother, suggesting at once the usual vicinity of their affectionate
mother; while the abundance of books in the king's private
sitting-room is a pleasant reminder of his studious habits. It is
curious to see how the swan, the device of this ancient property,
which was formerly called "Schwanstein", is represented in every
possible manner and material in the adornment of the castle. Swans
are pictured upon the armorial bearings at the entrance-gate; a bronze
swan spouts water from its uplifted beak in the garden fountain; while
below, upon the two lakes that enclose the park, groups of
living swans are floating about, as if to testify to the abiding
characteristics of the place. Within the building not only is the swan
a prominent figure in the frescoed story, but whichever way one turns
one sees a counterfeit presentment of the graceful bird. There is
Lohengrin in his enchanted boat impelled by his beloved swan, an
exquisite group in silver, and another like it in porcelain; swans are
carved upon the furniture, moulded upon the dishes, painted upon cups
and saucers, embroidered upon cushions and footstools: they serve as
ornaments to antique goblets, as covers to match-boxes, as handles to
vases. The paper-knife upon His Majesty's writing-table is carved
into the same likeness, and swans adorn the top of the pen-handle and
preside over the ink and sand bottles.
Besides the castle of Hohenschwangau, the king has a hunting-lodge
at Linderhof, which is being fitted up with great elegance in the
Renaissance style, and a palace on Lake Starnberg, where he spends
the greater part of his time, its nearness to Munich making it a
convenient residence.
As a consolation for the severities of winter and the utter lack
of beauty in the situation and surroundings of Munich, he has his
winter-garden, that mysterious enclosure at the top of the palace,
which is a perpetual irritant to the curiosity of the public, who
grudge to their ruler every token of that possession of his which
he seems to value above all the rest--his privacy. Now and then some
noted scholar or privileged acquaintance is invited to enter this
green retreat, so that its delights are not all unknown to the outside
world. The garden opens from the private apartments of the king, and
encloses a space of two hundred and thirty-four feet in length by
fifty (in one part ninety) feet in breadth, being, in fact, the upper
story of the west wing of the palace, with a raised and vaulted roof
of iron and glass. The landscape is arranged after the king's own
idea, and is entirely Oriental in vegetation and effect, the long
perspective of tropical luxuriance being closed by a distant view of
the Himalaya Mountains, so admirably executed that the illusion is
not dispelled until the beholder approaches very near to the wall upon
which it is painted. The garden is agreeably diversified by groups of
palms, plantains and other trees, by open lawns adorned with beds
of brilliant flowers, and by sheltered walks and secluded arbors. A
considerable space is occupied by a lake bordered with reeds, the home
of several swans, which float up and down in the dreamy silence: a
little way from the shore stands a small pavilion entirely hidden
in the dense shrubbery that surrounds it; and farther off a gorgeous
_kiosk_ raises its glittering cupolas and slender minarets above the
neighboring bushes and blossoming plants.
During the king's stay in Munich in the winter he takes but little
part in the gayeties of the season. He conforms, indeed, to the
customs of a court in giving the stated number of balls, dinners and
concerts; but it is easy to see that necessity, and not inclination,
prompts him to the task. There is plenty of work to occupy his mind
during the session of Parliament, and books enough to read and ponder
over in the solitude of his chamber; and so long as he is alert and
well prepared on every question of business to which his attention
is called, affable and polite to persons with whom he is brought into
official contact, gentle and generous to the poor and oppressed who
appeal to him in person--and no one can deny that he is all this--why
should he be blamed for preferring to spend his time as
A being breathing thoughtful breath,
instead of making himself a gazing-stock for the curious and a
companion of the gay and the foolish of his generation?
It may be that in the far-off future, long after the titles and
prerogatives of royalty shall have been done away with and wellnigh
forgotten, the virtues of this king, who is so poorly appreciated by
his contemporaries, will be commemorated in some beautiful legend,
like that of his favorite story of the Swan-Knight; since even now,
when that chaste hero appears in the dazzling purity of his enchanted
armor upon the Munich stage, one turns involuntarily to recognize his
counterpart in the solitary occupant of the royal box. E.E.
ON THE CHURCH STEPS.
CHAPTER X.
Lenox again, and bluebirds darting to and fro among the maples. I had
reached the hotel at midnight. Our train was late, detained on the
road, and though my thoughts drove instantly to the Sloman cottage,
I allowed the tardier coach-horses to set me down at the hotel. I had
not telegraphed from New York. I would give her no chance to withhold
herself from me, or to avoid me by running away. There was no time
for her, as yet, to have read of the ship's arrival. I would take her
unawares.
So, after the bountiful Nora, who presides over the comfort of her
favorites, had plied me with breakfast-cakes and milk and honey, I
sauntered down toward the Lebanon road. Yes, sauntered, for I felt
that a great crisis in my life was at hand, and at such times a
wonderful calmness, almost to lethargy, possesses me. I went slowly up
the hill. The church-clock was striking nine--calm, peaceful strokes.
There was no tremor in them, no warning of what was coming. The air
was very still, and I stopped a moment to watch the bluebirds before I
turned into the Lebanon road.
There was the little gray cottage, with its last year's vines about
it, a withered spray here and there waving feebly as the soft April
air caught it and tossed it to and fro. No sign of life about the
cottage--doors and windows tight shut and barred. Only the little gate
swung open, but that might have been the wind. I stepped up on the
porch. No sound save the echo of my steps and the knocking of my
heart. I rang the bell. It pealed violently, but there were no
answering sounds: nothing stirred.
I rang again, more gently, and waited, looking along the little path
to the gate. There was snow, the winter's snow, lingering about the
roots of the old elm, the one elm tree that overhung the cottage.
Last winter's snow lying there, and of the people who had lived in the
house, and made it warm and bright, not a footprint, not a trace!
Again I rang, and this time I heard footsteps coming round the corner
of the house. I sat down on the rustic bench by the door. If it had
been Bessie's self, I could not have stirred, I was so chilled, so
awed by the blank silence. A brown sun-bonnet, surmounting a tall,
gaunt figure, came in sight.
"What is it?" asked the owner of the sun-bonnet in a quick, sharp
voice that seemed the prelude to "Don't want any."
"Where are Mrs. Sloman and Miss Stewart? Are they not in Lenox?"
"Miss' Sloman, she's away to Minnarsoter: ben thar' all winter for her
health. She don't cal'late to be home afore June."
"And Miss Stewart?--is she with her?"
"Miss Stewart? I dunno," said the woman, with a strange look about the
corners of her mouth. "I dunno: I never see her; and the family was
all away afore I came here to take charge. They left the kitchen-end
open for me; and my sister-in-law--that's Hiram Splinter's wife--she
made all the 'rangements. But I _did_ hear," hesitating a moment, "as
how Bessie Stewart was away to Shaker Village; and some does say "--a
portentous pause and clearing of her throat--"that she's jined."
"_Joined_--what?" I asked, all in a mist of impatience and perplexity.
"Jined the Shakers."
"Nonsense!" I said, recovering my breath angrily. "Where is this
Hiram's wife? Let me see her."
"In the back lot--there where you see the yaller house where the
chimney's smoking. That's Hiram's house. He has charge of the Gold
property on the hill. Won't you come in and warm yourself by the fire
in the kitchen? I was away to the next neighbor's, and I was sure I
hear our bell a-ringin'. Did you hev' to ring long?"
But I was away, striding over the cabbage-patch and climbing the
worm-fence that shut in the estate of Hiram. Some wretched mistake:
the woman does not know what she's talking about. These Splinters!
they seem to have had some communication with Mrs. Sloman: they will
know.
Mrs. Splinter, a neat, bright-eyed woman of about twenty-five, opened
the door at my somewhat peremptory knock. I recollected her in a
moment as a familiar face--some laundress or auxiliary of the Sloman
family in some way; and she seemed to recognize me as well: "Why! it's
Mr. Munro! Walk in, sir, and sit down," dusting off a chair with her
apron as she spoke.
"Miss Stewart--where is she? _You_ know."
"Miss Stewart?" said the woman, sinking down into a chair and looking
greatly disturbed. "Miss Stewart's gone to live with the Shakers. My
husband drove her over with his team--her and her trunk."
"Why, where was her aunt? Did Mrs. Sloman know? Why isn't Miss Bessie
with her?"
"Miss' Sloman said all she could--_afterward_ I guess," said the
woman, wiping her eyes, "but 'twan't no use then. You see, Miss'
Sloman had jined a party that was goin' to Minnesota--while she was in
Philadelfy, that was--and Miss Stewart she wasn't goin'. She reckoned
she'd spend the winter here in the house. Miss' Sloman's maid--that's
Mary--was goin' with her to the West, and I was to hire my
sister-in-law to take charge of things here, so that Miss Bessie
could have her mind free-like to come and go. But afore ever Mary
Jane--that's my sister-in-law--could come over from Lee, where she was
livin' out, Miss Bessie comes up and opens the house. She stayed there
about a week, and she had lots of company while she was here. I think
she got tired. They was people that was just goin' to sail for Europe,
and as soon as they went she just shut up and told me to send for Mary
Jane to take care of things. So Mary Jane never see her, and perhaps
she giv' you a crooked answer, sir, if you was inquirin' of her over
to the cottage."
"Where's Hiram? where's your husband? Can I have his team this
morning?"
"I guess so," said the sympathetic Mrs. Splinter. "He'll show you the
very house he druv' her to."
Hiram was hunted for and found; and an hour later I was bowling
along the Lebanon road behind the bay team he was so proud of. I
had concluded to take him' with me, as he could identify places and
people, and I knew well what castles the Shaker houses are for the
world's people outside. Hiram was full of talk going over. He seemed
to have been bottling it up, and I was the first auditor for his
wrath. "I know 'm," he said, cracking his whip over his horses' heads.
"They be sharp at a bargain, they be. If they've contrived to get a
hold on Bessie Stewart, property and all, it'll go hard on 'em to give
her up."
"A _hold_ on Bessie!" What dreadful words! I bade him sharply hold his
tongue and mind his horses, but he went on muttering in an undertone,
"Yo'll see, yo'll see! You're druv' pretty hard, young man, I expect,
so I won't think nothing of your ha'sh words, and we'll get her out,
for all Elder Nebson."
So Hiram, looked out along the road from under his huge fur-cap, and
up hill and down. The miles shortened, until at last the fair houses
and barns of the Shaker village came in sight. A sleeping village, one
would have thought. Nobody in the road save one old man, who eyed us
suspiciously through the back of a chair he was carrying.
"It must be dinner-time, I think," said Hiram as he drove cautiously
along. Stopping at a house near the bridge: "Now this is the very
house. Just you go right up and knock at that 'ere door."
I knocked. In a twinkling the door was opened by a neat Shaker sister,
whose round, smiling face was flushed, as though she had just come
from cooking dinner. I stepped across the threshold: "Bessie
Stewart is here. Please say to her that a friend--a friend from
England--wishes to see her."
"Sure," said the motherly-faced woman, for she was sweet and motherly
in spite of her Shaker garb, "I'll go and see."
Smilingly she ushered me into a room at the left of the hall. "Take
seat, please;" and with a cheerful alacrity she departed, closing the
door gently behind her.
"Well," thought I, "this is pleasant: no bolts or bars here. I'm sure
of one friend at court."
I had leisure to observe the apartment--the neatly-scrubbed floor,
with one narrow cot bed against the wall, a tall bureau on which some
brown old books were lying, and the little dust-pan and dust-brush on
a brass nail in the corner. There was a brightly polished stove with
no fire in it, and some straight-backed chairs of yellow wood stood
round the room. An open door into a large, roomy closet showed various
garments of men's apparel hanging upon the wall. The plain thermometer
in the window casement seemed the one article of luxury or ornament
in the apartment. I believe I made my observations on all these things
aloud, concluding with, "Oh, Bessie! Bessie! you shall not stay here."
I know that I was startled enough by the apparition of a man standing
in the open closet door. He must have been within it at my entrance,
and had heard all I said.
He came forward, holding out his hand--very friendly apparently. Then,
requesting me to be seated, he drew out a chair from the wall and sat
down, tilting it back on two legs and leaning against the wall,
with his hands folded before him. Some commonplace remark about the
weather, which I answered, led to a rambling conversation, in which
he expressed the greatest curiosity as to worldly matters, and asked
several purely local questions about the city of New York. Perhaps his
ignorance was feigned. I do not know, but I found myself relating, _à
la_ Stanley-Livingstone, some of the current events of the day. His
face was quite intelligent, tanned with labor in the fields, and his
brown eyes were kind and soft, like those of some dumb animals. I note
his eyes here especially, as different in expression from those of
others of his sect.
Several times during the conversation I heard footsteps in the hall,
and darted from my seat, and finally, in my impatience, began to pace
the floor. Kindly as he looked, I did not wish to question the man
about Bessie. I would rely upon the beaming portress, whose "_Sure_"
was such an earnest of her good-will. Moreover, a feeling of contempt,
growing out of pity, was taking possession of me. This man, in what
did he differ from the Catholic priest save in the utter selfishness
of his creed? Beside the sordid accumulation of gain to which his
life was devoted the priest's mission among crowded alleys and
fever-stricken lanes seemed luminous and grand. A moral suicide, with
no redeeming feature. The barns bursting with fatness, the comfortable
houses, gain added to gain--to what end? I was beginning to give very
short answers indeed to his questions, and was already meditating a
foray through the rest of the house, when the door opened slowly and
a lady-abbess entered. She was stiff and stately, with the most formal
neckerchief folded precisely over her straitened bust, a clear-muslin
cap concealing her hair, and her face, stony, blue-eyed and cold--a
pale, frozen woman standing stately there.
"Bessie Stewart?" said I. "She is here--I know it. Do not detain her.
I must see her. Why all this delay?"
"Dost thou mean Sister Eliza?" she asked in chilling tones.
"No, nobody's sister--least of all a sister here--but the young lady
who came over here from Lenox two months ago--Bessie Stewart, Mrs.
Sloman's niece." (I knew that Mrs. Sloman was quite familiar with some
of the Shakeresses, and visited them at times.)
Very composedly the sister took a chair and folded her hands across
her outspread handkerchief before she spoke again. I noticed at this
moment that her dress was just the color of her eyes, a pale, stony
blue.
"Sister Eliza: it is the same," in measured accents. "She is not here:
she has gone--to Watervliet."
Can this be treachery? I thought, and is she still in the house? Will
they hide from her that I am here? But there was no fathoming the
woman's cold blue eyes.
"To Watervliet?" I inquired dismally. "How? when? how did she go?"
"She went in one of our wagons: Sister Leah and Brother Ephraim went
along."
"When will they return?"
"I cannot say."
All this time the man was leaning back against the wall, but uttered
not a word. A glance of triumph shot from the sister's eyes as I rose.
But she was mistaken if she thought I was going away. I stepped to the
window, and throwing it open called to Hiram, who was still sitting
in his wagon, chewing composedly a bit of straw. He leaped out in an
instant, and leaning out to him I rapidly repeated in an undertone the
previous conversation: "What would you do?"
"Ten chances to one it's a lie. Tell 'em you'll set there till you see
her. They can't shake us off that way."
I drew in my head. The pair still sat as before. "Well," said I, "as
I _must_ see her, and as you seem so uncertain about it, I will wait
here."
And again I took my seat. The sister's face flushed. I had meant no
rudeness in my tone, but she must have detected the suspicion in it.
She crimsoned to her temples, and said hastily, "It is impossible for
us to entertain strangers to-day. A brother is dying in the house:
we are all waiting for him to pass away from moment to moment. We can
submit to no intrusion."
Well, perhaps it was an intrusion. It was certainly their house if
it did hold my darling. I looked at her steadily: "Are you sure that
Bessie Stewart has gone away from here?"
"To Watervliet--yea," she answered composedly. "She left here last
week."
My skill at cross-examination was at fault. If that woman was lying,
she would be a premium witness. "I should be sorry, madam," I said,
recalling the world's etiquette, which I had half forgotten, "to
intrude upon you at this or any other time, but I cannot leave here in
doubt. Will you oblige me by stating the exact hour and day at which
Miss Stewart is expected to return from Watervliet, and the road
thither?"
She glanced across the room. Answering the look, the man spoke, for
the first time since she had entered: "The party, I believe, will be
home to-night."
"And she with them?"
"Yea, unless she has elected to remain."
"At what hour?"
"I cannot tell."
"By what road shall I meet her?"
"There are two roads: we generally use the river-road."
"To-night? I will go to meet her. By the river-road, you say?"
"Yea."
"And if I do not meet her?"
"If thou dost not meet her," said the lady-abbess, answering calmly,
"it will be because she is detained on the road."
I had to believe her, and yet I was very skeptical. As I walked out of
the door the man was at my heels. He followed me out on to the wooden
stoop and nodded to Hiram.
"Who is that, Hiram?" I whispered as he leaned across the back of a
horse, adjusting some leathern buckle.
"That?" said Hiram under his breath. "That's a deep 'un: that's Elder
Nebson."
Great was the dissatisfaction of the stout-hearted Splinter at my
retreat, as he called it, from the enemy's ground.
"I'd ha' liked nothin' better than to beat up them quarters. I thought
every minit' you'd be calling me, and was ready to go in." And he
clenched his fist in a way that showed unmistakably how he would
have "gone in" had he been summoned. By this time we were driving on
briskly toward the river-road. "You wa'n't smart, I reckon, to leave
that there house. It was your one chance, hevin' got in. Ten chances
to one she's hid away som'eres in one of them upper rooms," and he
pointed to a row of dormer-windows, "not knowin' nothin' of your bein'
there."
"Stop!" I said with one foot on the shafts. "You don't mean to say she
is shut up there?"
"Shet up? No: they be too smart for that. But there's plenty ways to
shet a young gal's eyes an' ears 'thout lockin' of her up. How'd she
know who was in this wagon, even if she seed it from her winders? To
be sure, I made myself conspicuous enough, a-whistlin' 'Tramp, tramp,'
and makin' the horses switch round a good deal. But, like enough, ef
she'd be down-spereted-like, she'd never go near the winder, but just
set there, a-stitchin' beads on velvet or a-plattin' them mats."
"Why should she work?" I asked, with my grasp still on the reins.
"Them all does," he answered, taking a fresh bite of the straw. "It's
the best cure for sorrow, they say. Or mebbe she's a-teachin' the
children. I see a powerful sight of children comin' along while you
was in there talkin', a-goin' to their school, and I tried to ask some
o' them about her. But the old sheep who was drivin' on 'em looked at
me like vinegar, and I thought I'd better shet up, or mebbe she'd give
the alarm that we was here with horses and wagon to carry her off."
I had a painful moment of indecision as Hiram paused in his narrative
and leisurely proceeded to evict a fly from the near horse's ear.
"I think we'll go on, Hiram," I said, jumping back to my seat again.
"Take the river-road."
Hiram had brought plentiful provision for his horses in a bag under
the seat. "Victualed for a march or a siege," he said as he dragged
out a tin kettle from the same receptacle when we drew up by the
roadside an hour after. "We're clear of them pryin' Shakers, and we'll
just rest a spell."
I could not demur, though my impatience was urging me on faster than
his hungry horses could go.
"I told Susan," he said, "to put me up a bit of pie and cheese--mebbe
we wouldn't be back afore night. Won't you hev' some?--there's a
plenty."
But I declined the luncheon, and while he munched away contentedly,
and while the horses crunched their corn, I got out and walked on,
telling Hiram to follow at his leisure. My heart beat fast as I espied
a wagon in the distance with one--yes, two--Shaker bonnets in it.
Bessie in masquerade! Perhaps so--it could not be the other: that
would be too horrible. But she was coming, surely coming, and the cold
prim sister had told the truth, after all.
The wagon came nearer. In it were two weather-beaten dames, neither of
whom could possibly be mistaken for Bessie in disguise; and the lank,
long-haired brother who was driving them looked ignorant as a child
of anything save the management of his horses. I hailed them, and the
wagon drew up at the side of the road.
It was the women who answered in shrill, piping voices: "Ben to
Watervliet? Nay, they'd ben driving round the country, selling garden
seeds."
"Did they know Bessie Stewart, who was staying in the Shaker village,
in the house by the bridge?"
"Sure, there had ben a stranger woman come there some time ago: they
could not tell--never heerd her name."
I was forced to let them drive on after I had exhausted every possible
inquiry, trusting that Hiram, who was close behind, would have keener
wit in questioning them, but Hiram, as it happened, did not come up
to them at all. They must have turned off into some farm-house lane
before they passed him. The afternoon wore on. It grew toward sunset,
and still we kept the river-road. There was no trace of the Shaker
wagon, and indeed the road was growing wild and lonely.
"I tell you what," said Hiram, stopping suddenly, "these beasts can't
go on for ever, and then turn round and come back again. I'll turn
here, and drive to the little tavern we passed about two mile back,
and stable 'em, and then you and me can watch the road."
It was but reasonable, and I had to assent, though to turn back
seemed an evil omen, and to carry me away from Bessie. The horses were
stabled, and I meanwhile paced the broad open sweep in front of the
tavern, across which the lights were shining. Hiram improved the
opportunity to eat a hearty supper, urging me to partake. But as I
declined, in my impatience, to take my eyes off the road, he brought
me out a bowl of some hot fluid and something on a plate, which I got
through with quickly enough, for the cool evening air had sharpened my
appetite. I rested the bowl on the broad bench beside the door, while
Hiram went backward and forward with the supplies.
"Now," said he as I finished at last, still keeping my eye upon the
road, "you go in and take a turn lyin' down: I'll watch the road. I'm
a-goin' to see this thing out."
But I was not ready to sleep yet; so, yielding to my injunction,
he went in, and I seated myself, wrapped in a buffalo robe from the
wagon. The night was damp and chill.
"Hedn't you better set at the window?" said the kind-hearted landlady,
bustling out. Hiram had evidently told her the story.
"Oh no, thank you;" for I was impatient of walls and tongues, and
wanted to be alone with my anxiety.
What madness was this in Bessie? She could not, oh she could not, have
thrown her life away! What grief and disquiet must have driven her
into this refuge! Poor little soul, scorched and racked by distrust
and doubt! if she could not trust me, whom should she trust?
The household noises ceased one by one; the clump of willows by the
river grew darker and darker; the stars came out and shone with that
magnetic brilliancy that fixes our gaze upon them, leading one to
speculate on their influence, and--
A hand on my shoulder: Hiram with a lantern turned full upon my face.
"'Most one o'clock," he said, rubbing his eyes sleepily. "Come to take
my turn. Have you seen nothing?"
"Nothing," I said, staggering to my feet, which felt like
lead--"nothing."
I did not confess it, but to this hour I cannot tell whether I had
been nodding for one minute or ten. I kept my own counsel as I turned
over the watch to Hiram, but a suspicion shot through me that perhaps
that wagon had gone by, after all, in the moment that I had been off
guard.
Hiram kept the watch faithfully till five that morning, when I too was
stirring. One or two teams had passed, but no Shaker wagon rattling
through the night. We breakfasted in the little room that overlooked
the road. Outside, at the pump, a lounging hostler, who had been
bribed to keep a sharp lookout for a Shaker wagon, whistled and waited
too.
"Tell you what," said Hiram, bolting a goodly rouleau of ham and eggs,
"I've got an idee. You and me might shilly-shally here on this road
all day, and what surety shall we hev' that they hevn't gone by the
other road. Old gal said there was two?"
"Yes, but the folks here say that the other is a wild mountain-road,
and not much used."
"Well, you see they comes down by the boat a piece, or they _may_ cut
across the river at Greenbush. They have queer ways. Now, mebbe they
_have_ come over that mountain-road in the night, while you and me
was a-watchin' this like ferrits. In that case she's safe and sound at
Shaker Village, not knowin' anything of your coming; and Elder Nebson
and that other is laughin' in their sleeves at us."
"Perhaps so."
"Now, this is my advice, but I'll do just as you say. 'Tain't no good
to lay around and watch that ere house _to day_. Ef we hedn't been in
such a white heat, we might just hev' hid round in the neighborhood
_there_ till she came along. But it's too late, for that now. Let's
you and me lay low till Sunday. She'll be sure to go to meetin' on
Sunday ef she's there, and you can quietly slip in and see if she is.
And to shut their eyes up, so that they won't suspect nothin', we'll
leave a message on one of your pasteboards that you're very sorry not
to hev' seen her, drefful sorry, but that you can't wait no longer,
and you are off. They'll think you're off for York: you've got York on
your cards, hevn't you?"
"Yes."
"You just come and stay to my house: we'll make you comfortable, and
there's only one day longer to wait. This is Friday, be'ent it? You'd
best not be seen around to the hotel, lest any of their spies be
about. They do a powerful sight o' drivin' round the country this time
o' year. And then, you see, ef on Sunday she isn't there, you can
go over to Watervliet, or we'll search them houses--whichever you
choose."
There seemed no help for it but to take Hiram's advice. We drove
homeward through the Shaker village, and drew up at the house again.
This time the door was opened by a bent, sharp little Creole, as
I took her to be: the beaming portress of the day before had been
relieved at her post.
"Nay, Bessie Stewart was not at home: she would go and inquire for me
when she was expected."
"No," I said carelessly, not wishing to repeat the scene of yesterday
and to present myself, a humiliated failure, before the two elders
again--"no: give her this card when she does come, and tell her I
could stay no longer."
I had not written any message on the card, for the message, indeed,
was not for Bessie, but for the others. She would interpret it that I
was in the neighborhood, anxious and waiting: she would understand.
"Home, then, Hiram," as I took my seat beside him. "We'll wait till
Sunday."
CHAPTER XI.
"You'd better eat sum'thin'," said Hiram over the breakfast-table on
Sunday morning. "Got a good long drive afore you, and mebbe a good
day's work besides. No? Well, then, Susan, you put the apple-brandy
into the basket, and some of them rusks, for I reckon we'll hev' work
with this young man afore night."
Susan, bless her good heart! wanted to go along, and as Hiram's
excitement was evidently at the highest pitch, he consented that she
should occupy the back seat of the wagon: "P'raps Miss Stewart'll feel
more comfortable about leavin' when she sees there's a woman along."
It was a rainy morning, and there were but few wagons on the road.
Arrived at the village, we encountered one little procession after
another of broadbrim straws and Shaker bonnets turning out of the
several houses as we drove past. They stepped along quickly, and
seemed to take no notice of us.
"Reckon we're the only visitors to-day," whispered Hiram as he stopped
at the horseblock in front of the meeting-house. "You know where you
hev' to set--on the left-hand side; and Susan, she goes to the right."
I followed Susan up the steps, and she hastened, as ordered, to the
right, while I took my seat on one of the back benches of the left,
against the wall. It was a barn-like structure, large, neat and
exquisitely chill. Two large stoves on either side possibly had fire
in them--an old man who looked like an ancient porter went to them
from time to time and put on coal--but the very walls reflected a
chill, blue glare. The roof was lofty and vaulted, and added to
the hollow coldness of the hall. The whole apartment was clean to
sanctity, and in its straitness and blank dreariness no unfit emblem
of the faith it embodied.
Around three sides of the hall, and facing the benches for visitors,
the Shaker fraternity were ranged. The hats and straight straw bonnets
hung decorously upon the wall over their heads: here and there a
sky-blue shawl or one of faded lilac hung beneath the headgear. Across
the wide apartment it was difficult to distinguish faces. I scanned
closely the sisterhood--old, withered faces most of them, with here
and there one young and blooming--but no Bessie as yet. Still, they
were coming in continually through the side door: she might yet
appear. I recognized my lady-abbess, who sat directly facing me, in a
seat of state apparently, and close to her, on the brethren's side of
the house, was Elder Nebson.
The services began. All rose, and sisters and brethren faced each
other and sang a hymn, with no accompaniment and no melody--a harsh
chant in wild, barbaric measure. Then, after a prayer, they entered
upon the peculiar method of their service. Round and round the room
they trooped in two large circles, sister following sister, brother
brother, keeping time with their hanging hands to the rhythm of the
hymn. Clustered in the centre was a little knot of men and women, the
high dignitaries, who seemed to lead the singing with their clapping
hands.
The circles passed each other and wove in and out, each preserving its
unbroken continuity. I looked for Elder Nebson: could it be that he
was joining in these gyrations? Yes, he was leading one of the
lines. But I noticed that his hands moved mechanically, not with the
spasmodic fervor of the rest, and that his eyes, instead of the dull,
heavy stare of his fellows, sought with faithful yet shy constancy the
women's ranks. And as the women filed past me, wringing their hands,
I scrutinized each face and figure--the sweet-faced portress, the
shrunken little creole ("A mulatto, she is," Hiram whispered--he had
taken his seat beside me--"and very powerful, they say, among 'em"),
and some fair young girls; two or three of these with blooming cheeks
bursting frankly through the stiff bordering of their caps. But I saw
not the face I sought.
"Them children! Ain't it awful?" muttered Hiram as a file of blue-coat
boys shambled past, with hair cut square across their foreheads and
bleached white with the sun. "Ain't got a grain of sense! Look at
'em!--all crowded clean out by the Shaker schools."
And surely they were a most unpromising little crowd. Waifs, snatched
probably from some New York whirlpool of iniquity, and wearing the
brute mark on their faces, which nothing in this school of their
transplanting tended to erase--a sodden little party, like stupid
young beasts of burden, uncouth and awkward.
As the girls came round again, and I had settled it in my mind that
there was certainly no Bessie in the room, I could watch them more
calmly. Eagerly as I sought her face, it was a relief, surely, that it
was not there. Pale to ghastliness, most of them, with high, sharpened
shoulders, and features set like those of a corpse, it was indeed
difficult to realize that these ascetic forms, these swaying devotees,
were women--women who might else have been wives and mothers. Some
of them wore in their hollow eyes an expression of ecstasy akin to
madness, and there was not a face there that was not saintly pure.
It was a strange union that assembled under one roof these nun-like
creatures, wasted and worn with their rigid lives, and the heavy,
brutish men, who shambled round the room like plough-horses. _Wicked_
eyes some of them had, mere slits through which a cunning and selfish
spirit looked out. Some faces there were of power, but in them the
disagreeable traits were even more strongly marked: the ignorant,
narrow foreheads were better, less responsible, it seemed.
The singing ended, there was a sermon from a high priest who stood out
imperious among his fellows. But this was not a sermon to the flock.
It was aimed at the scanty audience of strangers with words of
unblushing directness. How men and women may continue pure in the
constant hearing and repetition of such revolting arguments and
articles of faith is matter of serious question. The divine instincts
of maternity, the sweet attractions of human love, were thrown down
and stamped under foot in the mud of this man's mind; and at each
peroration, exhorting his hearers to shake off Satan, a strong
convulsive shiver ran through the assembly. "Bessie is certainly not
here: possibly she's still at Watervliet," I whispered to; Hiram as
the concluding hymn began. "But I'll have a chance at Elder Nebson and
that woman before they leave; the house."
The rain had ceased for some time, and as again the wild chant went
up from those harsh strained voices, a stray sunbeam, like a gleam of
good promise, shot across the floor. But what was this little figure
stealing in through a side-door and joining the circling throng?--a
figure in lilac gown, with the stiff muslin cap and folded
neckerchief. She entered at the farthest corner of the room, and I
watched her approach with beating heart. Something in the easy step
was familiar, and yet it could not be. She passed around with the
rest in the inner circle, and, leaning forward, I held my breath lest
indeed it might be she.
The circle opened, and again the long line of march around the room.
The lilac figure came nearer and nearer, and now I see her face. It is
Bessie!
With a cry I sprang up, but with a blow, a crash, a horrible darkness
swept over me like a wave, and I knew nothing.
When I came to myself I was lying on a bed in a room that was new to
me. A strong light, as of the setting sun, shone upon the whitewashed
wall. There was a little table, over which hung a looking-glass,
surmounted by two fans of turkey feathers. I stared feebly at the fans
for a while, and then closed my eyes again.
Where was I? I had a faint remembrance of jolting in a wagon, and of
pitying faces bent over me, but where was I now? Again I opened my
eyes, and noted the gay patchwork covering of the bed, and the green
paper curtain of the window in the golden wall--green, with a tall
yellow flower-pot on it, with sprawling roses of blue and red. Turning
with an effort toward the side whence all the brightness came, in a
moment two warm arms were round my neck, and a face that I could not
see was pressed close to mine.
"Oh, Charlie, Charlie! forgive, forgive me for being so bad!"
"Bessie," I answered dreamingly, and seemed to be drifting away again.
But a strong odor of pungent salts made my head tingle again, and
when I could open my eyes for the tears they rested on my darling's
face--my own darling in a soft white dress, kneeling by my bedside,
with both her arms round me. A vigorous patting of the pillow behind
me revealed Mrs. Splinter, tearful too: "He's come to now. Don't
bother him with talk, Miss Bessie. I'll fetch the tea."
And with motherly insistance she brought me a steaming bowl of
beef-tea, while I still lay, holding Bessie's hand, with a feeble
dawning that the vision was real.
"No," she said as Bessie put out her arm for the bowl, "you prop up
his head. I've got a steddyer hand: you'd just spill it all over his
go to-meetin' suit."
I looked down at myself. I was still dressed in the clothes that I
had worn--when was it? last week?--when I had started for the Shaker
meeting.
"How long?" I said feebly.
"Only this morning, you darling boy, it all happened; and here we are,
snug at Mrs. Splinter's, and Mary Jane is getting the cottage ready
for us as fast as ever she can."
How good that beef-tea was! Bessie knew well what would give it the
_sauce piquante_. "Ready for us!"
"Here's the doctor at last," said Hiram, putting his head in at the
door. "Why, hillo! are we awake?"
"The doctor! Dr. Wilder?" I said beamingly. How good of Bessie! how
thoughtful!
"Not Dr. Wilder, you dear old boy!" said Bessie, laughing and
blushing, "though I sha'n't scold you, Charlie, for that!" in a
whisper in my ear. "It's Dr. Bolster of Lee. Hiram has been riding all
over the country for him this afternoon."
"I'll go down to him," I said, preparing to rise.
"No you won't;" and Mrs. Splinter's strong arm, as well as Bessie's
soft hand, patted me down again.
Dr. Bolster pronounced, as well he might, that all danger was over.
The blow on my head--I must have struck it with force against the
projecting window-shelf as I sprang up--was enough to have stunned me;
but the doctor, I found, was inclined to theorize: "A sudden vertigo,
a dizziness: the Shaker hymns and dances have that effect sometimes
upon persons viewing them for the first time. Or perhaps the heat of
the room." He calmly fingered my pulse for a few seconds, with his
fat ticking watch in his other hand, and then retired to the bureau to
write a prescription, which I was indignantly prepared to repudiate.
But Bessie, in a delightful little pantomime, made signs to me to be
patient: we could throw it all out of the window afterward if need be.
"A soothing draught, and let him keep quiet for a day or so, will be
all that is required. I will call to-morrow if you would prefer it."
"We will send you a note, doctor, to-morrow morning: he seems so much
stronger already that perhaps it will not be necessary to make you
take such a long drive."
"Yes, yes, I'm very busy. You send me word whether to come or not."
And bustlingly the good doctor departed, with Mrs. Splinter
majestically descending to hold whispered conference with him at the
gate.
"Charlie, I _will_ send for Dr. Wilder if you are ready, for I'm never
going to leave you another minute as long as we live."
"I think," said I, laughing, "that I should like to stand up first on
my feet; that is, if I have any feet."
What a wonderful prop and support was Bessie! How skillfully she
helped me to step once, twice, across the floor! and when I sank down,
very tired, in the comfortable easy-chair by the window, she knelt on
the floor beside me and bathed my forehead with fragrant cologne, that
certainly did not come from Mrs. Splinter's tall bottle of lavender
compound on the bureau.
"Oh, my dear boy, I have _so_ much to say! Where shall I begin?"
"At the end," I said quietly. "Send for Dr. Wilder."
"But don't you want to hear what a naughty girl--"
"No, I want to hear nothing but 'I, Elizabeth, take thee--'"
"But I've been so very jealous, so suspicious and angry. _Don't_ you
want to hear how bad I am?"
"No," I said, closing the discussion after an old fashion of
the Sloman cottage, "not until we two walk together to the Ledge
to-morrow, my little wife and I."
"Where's a card--your card, Charlie? It would be more proper-like, as
Mrs. Splinter would say, for you to write it."
"I will try," I said, taking out a card-case from my breast-pocket.
As I drew it forth my hand touched a package, Fanny Meyrick's packet.
Shall I give it to her now? I hesitated. No, we'll be married first in
the calm faith that each has in the other to-day, needing no outward
assurance or written word.
I penciled feebly, with a very shaky hand, my request that the doctor
would call at Hiram Splinter's, at his earliest convenience that
evening, to perform the ceremony of marriage between his young friend,
Bessie Stewart, and the subscriber. Hiram's eldest son, a youth
of eight, was swinging on the gate under our window. To him Bessie
entrusted the card, with many injunctions to give it into no other
hands than the doctor's own.
In less time than we had anticipated, as we looked out of the window
at the last pink glow of the sunset, the urchin reappeared, walking
with great strides beside a spare little-figure, whom we recognized as
the worthy doctor himself.
"Good gracious! he _is_ in a hurry!" said Bessie, retiring hastily
from the window; "and we have not said a word to Mrs. Splinter yet!"
We had expected the little doctor would wait below until the
bridal-party should descend; but no, he came directly up stairs, and
walked into the room without prelude. He took Bessie in his arms with
fatherly tenderness: "Ah, you runaway! so you've come back at last?"
"Yes, doctor, and don't you let go of her until you have married her
fast to me."
"Ahem!" said the doctor, clearing his throat, "that is just what I
came to advise you about. Hiram told me this afternoon of the chase
you two had had, and of your illness this morning. Now, as it is half
over the village by this time that Bessie Stewart has been rescued
from the Shaker village by a chivalrous young gentleman, and as
everybody is wild with impatience to know the _dénoûment_, I want you
to come down quietly to the church this evening and be married after
evening service."
"To please everybody?" I said, in no very pleasant humor.
"I think it will be wisest, best; and I am sure this discreetest of
women," still holding Bessie's hand, "will agree with me. You need not
sit through the service. Hiram can bring you down after it has begun;
and you may sit in the vestry till the clerk calls you. I'll preach a
short sermon to-night," with a benignant chuckle.
He had his will. Some feeling that it would please Mrs. Sloman best,
the only person besides ourselves whom it concerned us to please,
settled it in Bessie's mind, although she anxiously inquired several
times before the doctor left if I felt equal to going to church.
Suppose I should faint on the way?
I was equal to it, for I took a long nap on the sofa in Mrs.
Splinter's parlor through the soft spring twilight, while Bessie held
what seemed to me interminable conferences with Mary Jane.
It was not a brilliant ceremony so far as the groom was concerned.
As we stood at the chancel-rail I am afraid that the congregation,
largely augmented, by this time, by late-comers--for the doctor had
spread the news through the village far and wide--thought me but a
very pale and quiet bridegroom.
But the bride's beauty made amends for all. Just the same soft white
dress of the afternoon--or was it one like it?--with no ornaments, no
bridal veil. I have always pitied men who have to plight their troth
to a moving mass of lace and tulle, weighed down with orange-blossoms
massive as lead. This was my own little wife as she would walk by my
side through life, dressed as she might be the next day and always.
But the next day it was the tartan cloak that she wore, by special
request, as we climbed the hill to the Ledge. It was spring
indeed--bluebirds in the air, and all the sky shone clear and warm.
"Let _me_ begin," said my wife as she took her old seat under
the sheltering pine. "You can't have anything to say, Charlie, in
comparison with me."
There was a short preliminary pause, and then she began.
CHAPTER XII.
"Well, after you wouldn't take me to Europe, you know--"
"You naughty girl!"
"No interruptions, sir. After you _couldn't_ take me to Europe I
felt very much hurt and wounded, and ready to catch at any straw of
suspicion. I ran away from you that night and left you in the parlor,
hoping that you would call me back, and yet longing to hide myself
from you too. You understand?"
"Yes, let us not dwell on that."
"Well, I believe I never thought once of Fanny Meyrick's going to
Europe too until she joined us on the road that day--you remember?--at
the washerwoman's gate."
"Yes; and do _you_ remember how Fidget and I barked at her with all
our hearts?"
"I was piqued then at the air of ownership Fanny seemed to assume in
you. She had just come to Lenox, I knew; she could know nothing of our
intimacy, our relations; and this seemed like the renewal of something
old--something that had been going on before. Had she any claim on
you? I wondered. And then, too, you were so provokingly reticent about
her whenever her name had been mentioned before."
"Was I? What a fool I was! But, Bessie dear, I could not say to even
you, then, that I believed Fanny Meyrick was in--cared a great deal
for me."
"I understand," said Bessie nodding. "We'll skip that, and take it for
granted. But you see _I_ couldn't take anything for granted but
just what I saw that day; and the little memorandum-book and Fanny's
reminiscences nearly killed me. I don't know how I sat through it all.
I tried to avoid you all the rest of the day. I wanted to think, and
to find out the truth from Fanny."
"I should think you _did_ avoid me pretty successfully, leaving me
to dine coldly at the hotel, and then driving all the afternoon till
train-time."
"It was in talking to Fanny that afternoon that I discovered how she
felt toward you. She has no concealment about her, not any, and
I could read her heart plainly enough. But then she hinted at her
father's treatment of you; thought he had discouraged you, rebuffed
you, and reasoned so that I fairly thought there might be truth in it,
_remembering it was before you knew me."_
"Listen one minute, Bessie, till I explain that. It's my belief,
and always was, that that shrewd old fellow, Henry Meyrick, saw very
clearly how matters were all along--saw how the impetuous Miss Fanny
was--"
"_Falling in love_: don't pause for a 'more tenderer word,' Charlie.
Sam Weller couldn't find any."
"Well, falling in love, if you _will_ say it--and that it was
decidedly a difficult situation for me. I remember so well that night
on the piazza, when Fanny clung about me like a mermaid, he bade her
sharply go and change her dripping garments, and what Fanny calls
'a decidedly queer' expression came into his face. He could not say
anything, poor old chap! and he always behaved with great courtesy to
me. I am sure he divined that I was a most unimpassioned actor in that
high-comedy plunge into the Hudson."
"Very well: I believe it, I'm sure, but, you see, how could I know
then what was or was not true? Then it was that I resolved to give you
leave--or rather give her leave to try. I had written my note in the
morning, saying _no_ finally to the Europe plan, and I scrawled across
it, in lead-pencil, while Fanny stood at her horse's head, those ugly
words, you remember?"
"Yes," I said: "'Go to Europe with Fanny Meyrick, and come up to
Lenox, both of you, when you return.'"
"Then, after that, my one idea was to get away from Lenox. The place
was hateful to me, and you were writing those pathetic letters
about being married, and state-rooms, and all. It only made me more
wretched, for I thought you were the more urgent now that you had been
lacking before. I hurried aunt off to Philadelphia, and in New York
she hurried me. She would not wait, though I did want to, and I was
so disappointed at the hotel! But I thought there was a fate in it
to give Fanny Meyrick her chance, poor thing! and so I wrote that
good-bye note without an address."
"But I found you, for all, thanks to Dr. R----!"
"Yes, and when you came that night I was so happy. I put away all
fear: I had to remind myself, actually, all the time, of what I
owed to Fanny, until you told me you had changed your passage to
the Algeria, and that gave me strength to be angry. Oh, my dear,
I'm afraid you'll have a very bad wife. Of course the minute you had
sailed I began to be horribly jealous, and then I got a letter by the
pilot that made me worse."
"But," said I, "you got my letters from the other side. Didn't that
assure you that you might have faith in me?"
"But I would not receive them. Aunt Sloman has them all, done up
and labeled for you, doubtless. She, it seems--had you talked her
over?--thought I ought to have gone with you, and fretted because she
was keeping me. Then I couldn't bear it another day. It was just after
you had sailed, and I had cut out the ship-list to send you; and I had
worked myself up to believe you would go back to Fanny Meyrick if
you had the chance. I told Aunt Sloman that it was all over between
us--that you might continue to write to me, but I begged that she
would keep all your letters in a box until I should ask her for them."
"But I wrote letters to her, too, asking what had become of you."
"She went to Minnesota, you know, early in February."
"And why didn't you go with her?"
"She scolded me dreadfully because I would not. But she was so well,
and she had her maid and a pleasant party of Philadelphia friends; and
I--well, I didn't want to put all those hundreds of miles between me
and the sea."
"And was Shaker Village so near, then, to the sea?"
"Oh, Charlie," hiding her face on my shoulder, "that was cowardice in
me. You know I meant to keep the cottage open and live there. It
was the saddest place in all the world, but still I wanted to be
there--alone. But I found I could not be alone; and the last
people who came drove me nearly wild--those R----s, Fanny Meyrick's
friends--and they talked about her and about you, so that I could bear
it no longer. I wanted to hide myself from all the world. I knew I
could be quiet at the Shaker village. I had often driven over there
with Aunt Sloman: indeed, Sophia--that's the one you saw--is a great
friend of Aunt Maria's."
"So the lady-abbess confessed, did she?" I asked with some curiosity.
"Yes: she said you were rudely inquisitive; but she excused you as
unfamiliar with Shaker ways."
"And were you really at Watervliet?"
"Yes, but don't be in a hurry: we'll come to that presently. Sophia
gave me a pretty little room opening out of hers, and they all treated
me with great kindness, if they _did_ call me Eliza."
"And did you," I asked with some impatience, remembering Hiram's
description--"did you sew beads on velvet and plait straw for mats?"
"Nonsense! I did whatever I pleased. I was parlor-boarder, as they
say in the schools. But I did learn something, sir, from that dear old
sister Martha. You saw _her_?"
"The motherly body who invited me in?"
"Yes: isn't she a dear? I took lessons from her in all sorts of
cookery: you shall see, Charlie, I've profited by being a Shakeress."
"Yes, my darling, but did you--you didn't go to church?"
"Only once," she said, with a shiver that made her all the dearer,
"and they preached such dreary stuff that I told Sophia I would never
go again."
"But did you really wear that dress I saw you in?"
"For that once only. You see, I was at Watervliet when you came. If
you had only gone straight there, dear goose! instead of dodging in
the road, you would have found me. I had grown a little tired of the
monotony of the village, and was glad to join the party starting for
Niskayuna, it was such a glorious drive across the mountain. I longed
for you all the time."
"Pretty little Shakeress! But why did they put us on such a false
track?"
"Oh, we had expected to reach home that night, but one of the horses
was lame, and we did not start as soon as we had planned. We came
back on Saturday afternoon--Saturday afternoon, and this is Monday
morning!", leaning back dreamily, and looking across the blue distance
to the far-off hills. "Then I got your card, and they told me about
you, and I knew, for all the message, that you'd be back on Sunday
morning. But how could I tell then that Fanny Meyrick would not be
with you?"
"Bessie!" and my hand tightened on hers.
"Oh, Charlie, you don't know what it is to be jealous. Of course I
did know that--no, I didn't, either, though I must have been _sure_
underneath that day. For it was more in fun than anything else, after
I knew you were in the meeting-house--"
"How did you know?"
"I saw you drive up--you and Hiram and Mrs. Hiram."
"You didn't think, then, that it was Mrs. Charles?"
"So I stole into Sophia's room, and put on one of her dresses. She is
tall too, but it did not fit very well."
"I should think not," I answered, looking down admiringly at her.
"In fact," laughing, "I took quite a time pinning myself into it and
getting the neckerchief folded prim. I waited till after the sermon,
and then I knew by the singing that it was the last hymn, so I darted
in. I don't know what they thought--that I was suddenly converted, I
suppose, and they would probably have given thanks over me as a brand
snatched from the burning. Did I do the dance well? I didn't want to
put them out."
"My darling, it was a dreadful masquerade. Did you want to punish me
to the end?"
"I was punished myself, Charlie, when you fell. Oh dear! don't let's
talk about the dreadful thing any more. But I think you would have
forgiven Elder Nebson if you had seen how tenderly he lifted you into
the wagon. There, now: where are we going to live in New York, and
what have we got to live on besides my little income?"
"Income! I had forgotten you had any."
"Ask Judge Hubbard if I haven't. You'll see."
"But, my dear," said I gravely, drawing forth the packet from my
breast, "I, too, have my story to tell. I cannot call it a confession,
either; rather it is the story of somebody else--Hallo! who's broken
the seal?" For on shipboard I had beguiled the time by writing a sort
of journal to accompany Fanny's letter, and had placed all together in
a thick white envelope, addressing it, in legal parlance, "To whom it
may concern."
"_I_ did," said Bessie faintly, burying her face on my arm. "It fell
out of your pocket when they carried you up stairs; and I read it,
every word, twice over, before you came to yourself."
"You little witch! And I thought you were marrying me out of pure
faith in me, and not of sight or knowledge."
"It was faith, the highest faith," said Bessie proudly, and looking
into my eyes with her old saucy dash, "to know, to feel sure, that
that sealed paper concerned nobody but me."
And so she has ever since maintained.
SARAH C. HALLOWELL.
A STRANGE LAND AND A PECULIAR PEOPLE.
A nodule of amygdaloid, a coarse pebble enveloped in a whitish
semi-crystalline paste, lies on the table before me. I know that a
blow of the hammer will reveal the beauties of its crystal interior,
but I do not crush it. It is more to me as it is--more than a letter
plucked from the stone pages of time. Coarse and plain, it is an index
to a chapter of life. In the occupations of a busy existence we forget
how much we owe to the sweet emotional nature which, by mere chance
association, retains the dearer part of the past fixed in memory, just
as the graceful volutes of a fossil shell are preserved in the coarse
matrix of a stony paste. In this way the nodule connects itself with
my emotional life, and recalls the incidents of this sketch.
We were journeying over the mountains in the autumn of 1869. Our camp
was pitched in a valley of the ascending ridges of the Cumberland
range, on the south-east border of Kentucky. At this point the
interior valley forms the letter J, the road following the bend, and
ascending at the foot of the perpendicular.
It is nearly an hour since sunset, but the twilight still lingers in
softened radiance, mellowing the mountain-scenery. The camp-wagons
are drawn up on a low pebbly shelf at the foot of the hills, and the
kindled fire has set a great carbuncle in the standing pool. A spring
branch oozes out of the rocky turf, and flows down to meet a shallow
river fretting over shoals. The road we have followed hangs like
a rope-ladder from the top of the hills, sagging down in the
irregularities till it reaches the river-bed, where it flies apart in
strands of sand. The twilight leans upon the opposite ridge, painting
its undulations in inconceivably delicate shades of subdued color.
Although the night is coming on, the clear-obscure of that dusk, like
a limpid pool, reveals all beneath. A road ascending the southern hill
cuts through a loamy crust a yellow line, which creeps upward, winding
in and out, till nothing is seen of it but a break in the trees set
clear against the sky. No art of engineer wrought these graceful
bends: it is a wild mountain-pass, followed by the unwieldy buffalo in
search of pasturage. Beyond, the mountain rises again precipitously, a
ragged tree clinging here and there to the craggy shelves. Around and
through the foliage, like a ribbon, the road winds to the top. A blue
vapor covers it and the hills melting softly in the distance. At the
base of the hills a little river winds and bends to the west through
a low fertile bottom, the stem of the J, which is perhaps a mile in
width. It turns again, its course marked by a growth of low water-oaks
and beeches, following the irregular fold in the hills which has been
described.
Leaning against the bluffs hard by the camp is a low white cottage,
with its paddock and pinfold, and the cattle are coming up, with bells
toning irregularly as they feed and loiter on the way. The supper-horn
sends forth a hoarse but mellow fugue in swells and cadences from the
farm-house. Over all this sweet rural scene of mountain, valley, river
and farm, and over the picturesque camp, with stock, tent and wagons,
now brightened by the grace of a young girl, the twilight lingers like
love over a home. As I listen and look a soft voice from the carriage
at my side says, "Is the ground damp? May I get out?"
I turn to my little prisoner, and as the mingled lights cross her
features I see that her wide, dark-gray eyes are swimming in tears.
"Why, what is it?" I ask.
"Nothing: everything is so sweet and tranquil. I was wondering if our
new home would be like this--not the hills and valleys, you know, but
so quiet and homelike."
So homelike! With that vague yearning, we, like so many Southerners
of the period, were wagoning from old homesteads, a thousand miles of
travel, to a resting-place.
"It will be like home if you are there," I think as I assist her to
alight--the burden daily growing lighter in my arms and heavier on my
heart--but I say nothing.
Pretty soon she is at her usual relaxation, looking for shells, ivy
berries and roots of wild vines to adorn that never-attainable home.
The kindly, generous twilight, so unlike the swift shrift of the
Florida levels, still lingers; and presently, amid bits of syenite,
volcanic tuff and scoria, she has found this nodule of amygdaloid.
It differs from the fossil shells and alluvial pebbles she is used to
find, and she is curious about it.
I tell the story of the watershed of the Ohio as well as I can--how
it was the delta of a great river, fed by the surfage of a continent
lying south--eastwardly in the Atlantic; of the luxuriant vegetation
that sprang up as in the cypress-swamps of her old home in Louisiana,
passing, layer by layer, into peat, to be baked and pressed into
bituminous coal, that slops over the flared edges of the basin
in Pennsylvania, like sugar in the kettles, and is then burnt to
anthracite. I promise her that in some dawn on the culminating peak,
when the hills below loom up, their tops just visible like islands in
a sea of dusk, I will show her a natural photograph of that old-world
delta, with the fog breaking on the lower cliffs like the surf of a
ghostly sea. She listens as to a fairy tale, and then I tell her of
the stellar crystals concealed in the rough crust of the amygdaloid.
She puts it away, and says I shall break it for her when we get home.
We have traveled a long way, by different paths, since then, but it
has never been broken--never will be broken now.
In addition to the geological and botanical curiosities the mountains
afford, my companion had been moved alternately to tears and smiles by
the scenes and people we met--their quaint speech and patient poverty.
We passed eleven deserted homesteads in one day. Sometimes a lean cur
yelped forlorn welcome: at one a poor cow lowed at the broken paddock
and dairy. We passed a poor man with five little children--the eldest
ten or twelve, the youngest four or five--their little stock on a
small donkey, footing their way over the hills across Tennessee into
Georgia. It was so pitiful to see the poor little babes-in-the-wood on
that forlorn journey; and yet they were so brave, and the poor fellow
cheered them and praised them, as well he might. Another miserable
picture was at the white cottage near our camp. The lawn showed
evidences of an old taste in rare flowers and vines, now choked with
weeds. I knocked, and a slovenly negress opened the door and revealed
the sordid interior--an unspread bed; a foul table, sickly with the
smell of half-eaten food and unwashed dishes; the central figure a
poor, helpless old man sitting on a stool, I asked the negress for
her master: she answered rudely that she had no master, and would have
slammed the door in my face. Why tell the story of a life surrounded
by taste and womanly adornments, followed by a childless, wifeless old
age? The poor, wizened old creature was rotting in life on that
low stool among his former dependants, their support and scorn. The
Emancipation Proclamation did not reach him. But one power could break
his bonds and restore the fallen son and the buried wife--the great
liberator, Death.
The natives of this region are characterized by marked peculiarities
of the anatomical frame. The elongation of the bones, the contour
of the facial angle, the relative proportion or disproportion of the
extremities, the loose muscular attachment of the ligatures, and the
harsh features were exemplified in the notable instance of the late
President Lincoln. A like individuality appears in their idiom. It
lacks the Doric breadth of the Virginian of the other slope, and is
equally removed from the soft vowels and liquid intonation of the
southern plain. It has verbal and phraseological peculiarities of its
own. Bantering a Tennessee wife on her choice, she replied with a toss
and a sparkle, "I-uns couldn't get shet of un less'n I-uns married
un." "Have you'uns seed any stray shoats?" asked a passer:
"I-uns's uses about here." "Critter" means an animal--"cretur,"
a fellow-creature. "Longsweet-'nin'" and "short sweet'nin'" are
respectively syrup and sugar. The use of the indefinite substantive
pronoun _un_ (the French _on_), modified by the personals, used
demonstratively, and of "done" and "gwine" as auxiliaries, is peculiar
to the mountains, as well on the Wabash and Alleghany, I am told, as
in Tennessee. The practice of dipping--by which is meant not baptism,
but chewing snuff--prevails to a like extent.
In farming they believe in the influence of the moon on all
vegetation, and in pork-butchering and curing the same luminary is
consulted. Leguminous plants must be set out in the light of the
moon--tuberous, including potatoes, in the dark of that satellite. It
is supposed to _govern_ the weather by its dip, not _indicate_ it by
its appearance. The cup or crescent atilt is a wet moon--i.e., the
month will be rainy. A change of the moon forebodes a change of the
weather, and no meteorological statistics can shake their confidence
in the superstition. They, of course, believe in the water-wizard
and his forked wand; and their faith is extended to the discovery
of mineral veins. While writing this I see the statement in a public
journal that Richard Flannery of Cumberland county (Kentucky) uses an
oval ball, of some material known only to himself, which he suspends
between the forks of a short switch. As he walks, holding this
extended, the indicator announces the metal by arbitrary vibrations.
As his investigations are said to be attended with success, possibly
the oval ball is highly magnetized, or contains a lode-stone whose
delicate suspension is affected by the current magnetism, metallic
veins being usually a magnetic centre. Any mass of soft iron in the
position of the dipping-needle is sensibly magnetic, and a solution
of continuity is thus indicated by the vibrations of the delicately
poised instrument. Flaws in iron are detected with absolute certainty
by this method. More probably, however, the whole procedure is pure,
unadulterated humbug. In all such cases the failures are unrecorded,
while the successes are noted, wondered at and published. By shooting
arrows all day, even a blind man may hit the mark sometimes.
During this journey it was a habit with me to relate to my invalid
companion any fact or incident of the day's travel. She came to expect
this, and would add incidents and observations of her own. In this
way I was led to compile the following little narrative of feminine
constancy and courage during the late war.
It begins with two boys and a girl, generically divided into brother
and sister and their companion, living on the divide-range of
mountains between Kentucky and Tennessee. The people raised hogs,
which were fattened on the mast of the range, while a few weeks'
feeding on corn and slops in the fall gave the meat the desired
firmness and flavor. They cultivated a few acres of corn, tobacco
and potatoes, and had a kitchen-garden for "short sass" and "long
sass"--leguminous and tuberous plants. Apples are called "sour sass."
The chief local currency was red-fox scalps, for which the State
of Kentucky paid a reward: the people did not think of raising such
vermin for the peltry, as the shrewder speculator of a New England
State did. They sold venison and bear-meat at five cents a pound
to the lame trader at Jimtown, who wagoned it as far as Columbia,
Kentucky, and sold it for seventy-five cents. They went to the log
church in the woods on Sundays, and believed that Christ was God in
the flesh, with other old doctrines now rapidly becoming heretical
in the enlightened churches of the East. Living contentedly in this
simple way, neither rich nor poor, the lads grew up, nutting, fishing,
hunting together, and the companion naturally looked forward to the
day when he would sell enough peltry and meat to buy a huge watch like
a silver biscuit, such as the schoolmaster wore, make a clearing and
cabin in the wild hills, and buy his one suit of store clothes, in
which to wed the pretty sister of his friend.
Then came the war. Although it divided the two friends, the old
kindness kept their difference from flaming forth in the vendetta
fashion peculiar to the region. It was a great deal that these two
young fellows did not believe that military morality required them to
shoot each other on sight. Yet, on reconsideration, I will not be
so sure of their opinion on this point. Perhaps they thought that,
morally and patriotically, they ought to do this, and were conscious
of weakness and failure of duty in omitting to do it. Perhaps the old
good-will survived for the girl's sake; and if so, I do not think the
Union was the worse preserved on that account.
The young lover went into the ranks of Wolford's regiment of loyal
mountaineers, and rose--slowly at first, more rapidly as his square
sense and upright character became known.
The girl, in her retirement, heard of her lover's advancement with
pride and fear. She distrusted her worth, and found the hard menial
duties of life more irksome than before. Not that she shrank from
labor, but she feared its unfitting her for the refinement required by
her lover's new social position. She had few examples to teach her
the small proprieties of small minds, but a native delicacy helped her
more than she was conscious of. She read her Bible a great deal, and
used to wonder if Mary and "the other Mary" were ladies. She thought
Peter was probably an East Tennesseean, or like one, for when he
denied his Lord they said he did not talk like the others. It seemed
hard that to say "we-uns" and "you-uns," as she habitually did, though
she tried not, and to use the simple phrases of her childhood, should
be thought coarse or wrong. Such matters were puzzles to her which she
could not solve. She got an old thumbed Butler's _Grammar_ and tried
hard to correct the vocables of her truant tongue. I am afraid she
made poor progress. She had a way of defying that intolerable tyrant,
the nominative singular, and put all her verbs in the plural, under an
impression, not without example, that it was elegant language. She had
enough hard work to do, poor girl! to have been quit of these mental
troubles. Her brother was away, her parents were old, and all the
irksome duties of farm-house and garden fell upon her. She had to hunt
the wild shoats on the range, and to herd them; to drive up the cows,
and milk them; to churn and make the butter and cheese. She tapped
the sugar trees and watched the kettles, and made the maple syrup and
sugar; she tended the poultry, ploughed and hoed the corn field and
garden, besides doing the house-work. Her old parents could help but
little, for the "rheumatiz," which attacks age in the mountains, had
cramped and knotted their limbs, and they were fit for nothing except
in fine dry weather. Surely, life was hard with her, without
her anxieties about her lover's constancy and her own defects.
Letter-writing was a labor not to be thought of. She tried it, and got
as far as "I am quite well, and I hope these few lines will find you
the same," and there stopped. She ascribed the difficulty to her own
mental and clerical defects, but I think it lay quite as much in the
nature of the relation. How was she to express confidence when she
distrusted? how express distrust when her maidenly promptings told her
it was an indelicate solicitation? She could say Brindle had gone dry
and the blind mare had foaled, or that crops were good; but what was
that to say when her heart was thirsting and drying up? She blotted
the paper and her eyes and her hands, but she could not write a line.
She was a sensible girl, and gave it up, leaving her love to grow its
own growth. The tree had been planted in good ground, and watered: it
must grow of itself.
By and by military operations brought her lover into the old
neighborhood. I cannot say he put on no affectations with his new
rank, that he did not air his shoulder-straps a taste too much; but
the manly nature was too loyal to sin from mere vanity. He seemed
natural, easy, pleased with her, and urged a speedy wedding.
We may guess how the Lassie--we must give her a name, and that will
do--worshiped her King Cophetua in shoulder-straps. Had he not stooped
from his well-won, honorable height, the serene azure of his blue
uniform, to sue for her? In all the humility of her pure loving heart
she poured out her thankfulness to the Giver of all good for this
supreme blessing of his love.
In the midst of this peace and content her brother appeared with a
flag of truce. He was hailed as a prosperous prodigal, for he too
was a lad of metal, but he brought one with him that made poor Lassie
start and tremble. It was a lady, young and beautiful, clad in deep
mourning. Although sad and retiring, there was that dangerous charm
about her which men are lured by, and which women dread--a subtle
influence of look and gesture and tone that sets the pulses mad. She
was going for the remains of her husband, and told a pathetic story,
but only too well. She used always the same language, cried at the
same places, and seemed altogether too perfect in her part for it
to be entirely natural. So, at least, Lassie thought, even while
reproaching herself for being hard on a sister in affliction. Yet she
could not escape the bitterness of the thought that the widow, Mrs.
G----, was "a real lady"--that ideal rival she had been so long
dreading in her lover's absence; and now that he had come, the rival
had also come.
Her brother dropped a hint or two about the lady: Mrs. G---- had the
"shads," "vodles" of bank-stock and niggers, and she paid well for
small service. If King Cophetua could get leave to escort her to
head-quarters, Mrs. G---- would foot the bills and do the handsome
thing. It was hard such a woman should have to go on such a sad
business alone.
What could his sister say? She had herself put off the wedding a
month: she wanted to get her ample store of butter, eggs and
poultry to the trader at Jimtown, or, better still, to the brigade
head-quarters at Bean's Station. With her own earnings she could then
buy such simple muslins for her wedding-dress as became her and would
not shame her lover. She wished she had married him, as he had urged,
in her old calico gown. If he had asked her now, if he had pressed a
little, she would have yielded; but he did not. He seemed to accept
the proprieties and woman's will as unalterable. In fact, he did
follow Mrs. G----'s motions with only too lively an admiration.
Perhaps he did not know himself what his feelings were--what this new
fever in his pulses meant. Besides the calm, holy connubial love there
is a wild animal passion that tears through moral creeds and laws.
Once, Lassie saw her brother give him a half-angry stare, that passed
into a laugh of cool scorn. "Take care of Mrs. G----," he said to King
Cophetua. "You will get bit there if you don't look out."
How the sister would have pressed that warning had she dared! Innocent
as her lover might be, she believed that Mrs. G---- saw the growing
passion and encouraged it. But there was nothing to take hold of.
There was nothing bold, forward or inviting in her manner. If a lady
has long lashes, must she never droop them lest she be charged with
coquetry? May not a flush spring as naturally from shy reserve as from
immodesty?
Lassie's lover did take charge of this dangerous siren to escort her
to the head-quarters at Louisville. But just before starting he came
to Lassie with a certain eagerness, as one who is going into battle
might, and assured her, again and again, of his faith. Did he do this
to assure her or himself? I think the last.
How weary the month was! She occupied herself as well as she could
with her sales and purchases, making a very good trade. The brigade
had been at Bean's Station long enough to eat up all the delicacies to
be found there, so that the little maid, who was a sharp marketer, got
fabulous prices. She made up her simple wedding furniture, gave her
mother a new gown and underwear, and pleased her old father with a
handsome jean suit, the labor of her own nimble fingers. All that
belonged to her would appear well on that day, as became them and her.
At any other time she would have followed up that thrifty market at
Bean's Station. She would have huckstered around the neighborhood, and
made a little income while it lasted; but now she had no heart for it.
Her lover's leave was out, yet his regimental associates knew nothing
about him.
A week after the day set for her marriage her brother came again with
the flag of truce. He too was vexed--not so much at Cophetua's absence
as at not meeting the widow, whom he had been sent to escort to the
Confederate lines. But he treated his sister's jealous suspicions
with a dash of scorn: "There was nothing of that kind, but if Cophetua
would fool with a loaded gun, he must expect to be hurt. If ever there
was a hair-trigger, it was Mrs. G----."
"Who is she?" asked his sister eagerly. "Tell me: you say there is
something strange, dangerous about her, and I can see it. Who is she?"
"Humph!" said her brother. "She is a lady, and that is enough. If she
is dangerous, keep out of her way."
This only deepened the mystery. But she had no time to think. Her
brother left in the morning. In the afternoon the colonel of her
lover's regiment came to see her with a very grave face. The young
man had been arrested for dealing with the enemy, harboring spies and
furnishing information of the disposition and number of the Federal
forces. "If we could get at the true story of his connection with that
woman," said the colonel, "I am satisfied he has only been indiscreet,
not treacherous. He is one of my best, most trusted officers, and his
arrest is a blot on the regiment. If he will tell anybody, he will
tell you. Can you go to Louisville at once?"
Yes, at once. The traveling-dress, made up for so different an
occasion, was donned, and under escort she went, by a hundred miles of
horseback ride, to the nearest railway station. There was no tarrying
by the way: the colonel's influence provided relays. On the evening of
the third day she was with her lover.
It was as the colonel had supposed: the woman had got her lover in her
toils, and he had been imprudent. He had every reason for believing
that her story of her husband's remains was false. She was a dealer in
contraband goods: this much he knew. Other officers, of higher rank,
knew as much, and corresponded with her. If they chose to wink at it,
was he, a subordinate, to interfere? She had trusted him, depended on
him, and he had a feeling that it would be disloyal to her confidence
to betray her, to pry into what she concealed, and expose what his
superiors seemed to know. But after she was gone the story leaked out:
she was not only a smuggler, but a very dangerous spy. Some one must
be the scapegoat, and who so fit as the poor, friendless Tennesseean
who had escorted her to head-quarters and acted for her in personal
matters?
That was his story, but what a poor story to tell to a court-martial!
What was she to do? Poor, simple child of the woods! what did she know
of the wheels within wheels, and the rings of political influence
by which a superior authority was to be invoked? She knew nothing of
these things, and there was no one to tell her. She thought of but one
plan: her brother could find that woman. She would seek her out--she
would appeal to her.
We need not follow her on that return journey and her visit to the
Confederate camp. Fortunately, the Confederates were nearer than
she supposed. She came upon their pickets, and was taken into the
commanding officer's presence. Her brother was sent for, and when he
came she told him she was looking for his friend, Mrs. G----.
"Looking for her!" said her brother. "Why, that is what we moved out
this way for! She is in camp now. We brought her and her luggage in
last night."
She eagerly entreated to be taken to her, and was carried to a
pavilion, or marquee, a little apart from the officers' quarters.
Mrs. G---- came in richly but simply dressed, attended by a portly,
handsome, but rather dull-looking officer.
"Why, Lassie!" said Mrs. G---- in surprise. "So you have come to see
me? Here are the remains of my poor dear," she added with a little
laugh, presenting the gentleman. "Do you think he is worth all the
trouble I took to get him?"
"Ha! much pleased! Devilish proper girl!" said the man with a stupid
blush, justifying the stolidity of his good looks.
"But where is your _preux chevalier_, Captain Cophetua? I declare, I
almost fell in love with him myself. Frank here is quite jealous."
"Oh, Mrs. G----," broke out the poor girl, "you have killed him! They
are going to try him and hang him for helping you to spy."
"Nonsense!" said the lady with a little start. "The poor fellow did
nothing but what, as a gentleman, he was compelled to do. But how can
I help you?"
"Save him," said Lassie. "You have your wealth, your wit, your
husband: I have but him!" and she sank down in tears.
"Stupid," said the lady, turning sharply on her husband, "tell me what
to do? Don't you see we must not let them hang the poor fellow?"
"Of course not," said the big man dryly. "Just countermand the order
of execution. No doubt the Yankees will obey: I would."
"Of course you would: a precious life you would lead if you did not,"
said his wife, who evidently commanded that squad. "Never mind: there
is more sense in what you said than I expected of you--Jane," to the
smart maid who attended on her, "pen, ink, paper and my portfolio."
Opening the last, she took out a bundle of letters, and, running them
rapidly over as a gambler does his cards, she selected one. "This,"
she said to Lassie, "is a note from General ----. It is written
without the slightest suspicion of my character as a spy; but you will
see it involves him far more dangerously than your friend. He cannot
well explain it away. Keep the letter. I will write to him that you
have it to deliver over in return for his kind assistance in effecting
the release of your friend. Don't fear: I ask him to do nothing he
ought not to do without asking, and you give him a letter that would
be misconstrued if it fell into other hands."
Armed with these instructions and the letters, Lassie returned home,
passed on to Louisville, and delivered her message. The general
promptly interfered, thanking her for calling his attention to the
matter. His influence, and a more exact understanding of the means and
appliances of the artful widow in obtaining information, effected her
lover's acquittal and restoration to his former position.
"I owe her my life and good name," said the tall Tennesseean, taking
Baby No. 2 from her arms. "I-uns ain't wuth such a gal."
"No," say I drily. "What did you take him for?" to her. Then I get the
answer before quoted. But my companion, with a truer perception, went
quietly up and kissed her Tennessee sister, a little to the surprise
of both, I think, but they seemed touched by the silent little tribute
more than by any words.
I have spoken of the character of the hostilities in that "debatable
land." War is a bad thing always, but when it gets into a simple
neighborhood, and teaches the right and duty of killing one's
friends and relatives, it becomes demoniac. Down about Knoxville they
practiced a better method. There it was the old game of "Beggar
your Neighbor," and they denounced and "confiscated" each other
industriously. Up in the poor hills they could only kill and burn,
and rob the stable and smoke-house. We were shown the scene of one
of these neighborhood vengeances. It is a low house at the side of
a ravine, down whose steep slope the beech forest steps persistently
erect, as if distrusting gravitation. Thirty Confederates had gathered
in that house at a country-side frolic, and the fiddle sang deep in
the night. The mountain girls are very pretty, having dark, opalescent
eyes, with a touch of gold in them at a side glance, slight, rather
too fragile figures, and the singular purity of complexion peculiar to
high lands.
The moon went down, and the music of the dance, the shuffle of feet on
the puncheon floor, died away into that deep murmurous chant, the hymn
of Nature in the forest. The falling water, sleeping in the dam or
toiling all day at the mill, gurgles like the tinkling of castanets.
Every vine and little leaf is a harp-string; every tiny blade of grass
flutes its singly inaudible treble; the rustling leaves, chirping
cricket, piping batrachian, the tuneful hum of insects that sleep
by day and wake by night, mingle and flow in the general harmony of
sound. The reeds and weeds and trunks of trees, like the great and
lesser pipes of an organ, thunder a low bass. The melancholy hoot
of the owl and the mellow complaint of the whippoorwill join in the
solemn diapason of the forest, filling the solitudes with grand,
stately marches. There are no sounds of Nature or art so true in
harmony as this ceaseless murmur of the American woods. So accordant
is it with the solemn majesty of form and color that the observer
fails to separate and distinguish it as an isolated part in the grand
order of Nature. He has felt an indescribable awe in the presence of
serene night and unbounded shadow, but to divide and distinguish
its constituent causes were as vain as in the contour and color of a
single tree to note the varied influence of rock, soil and river.
Over the little farm-house in the ravine in the fall of 1863 there
fell with the sinking moon these solemn dirges of the great dark
woods. The stars brightened their crowns till _Via Lactea_ shone a
highway of silver dust or as the shadow of that primeval river rolling
across the blue champaign of heaven. The depths of repose that follow
the enjoyment of the young irrigated their limbs, filling the sensuous
nerves and arteries with a delicious narcotism--a deep, quiet,
healthful sleep, lulled by the chant of the serene mother-forest.
Hush! A light step, like a blown leaf: the loose wooden latch rises at
the touch of a familiar hand; familiar feet, that have trodden every
inch of that poor log floor, lead the way; and then all at once, like
a bundle of Chinese crackers, intermingled with shrieks and groans and
deep, vehement curses, the rapid reports of pistols fill the chambers.
The beds, the floors, the walls, the doors are splashed with blood,
and the chambers are cumbered with dead and dying men in dreadful
agony. Happy those who passed quietly from the sweet sleep of Nature
to the deeper sleep of death! Of thirty young men in the flush of
youth, not one escaped. Six Federal scouts had threaded their way
since sunset from the Federal lines to do this horrible work. Oh,
Captain Jack, swart warrior of the Modocs! must we hang you for
defending your lava-bed home in your own treacherous native way, when
we, to preserve an arbitrary political relation, murder sleeping men
in their beds?
Let me close with an incident of that great game of war in which the
watershed of the Ohio was the gambler's last stake.
The Confederacy was a failure in '62, held together by external
pressure of hostile armies. It converted civil office into bomb-proofs
for the unworthy by exempting State and Federal officials; it
discouraged agriculture by levying on the corn and bacon of the small
farmers, while the cotton and sugar of the rich planter were jealously
protected; it discouraged enlistment by exempting from military
service every man who owned twenty negroes, one hundred head of
cattle, five hundred sheep--in brief, all who could afford to serve;
it discouraged trade by monopolies and tariffs. But for the ubiquitous
Jew it would have died in 1862-'63, as a man dies from stagnation of
the blood. It was the rich man's war and the poor man's fight.
This suicidal policy had its effect. Cut off from all markets, the
farmer planted only for family use. At the close of the war the people
of Georgia, Alabama and the Carolinas had to be fed by the government.
The farmers in 1864 refused to feed the Southern army. Seventy
thousand men deserted east of the Mississippi between October 1, 1864,
and February 3, 1865. They were not recalled: the government could not
feed them. The Confederacy was starved out by its own people--rather
by its own hideous misgovernment, for the people were loyal to the
cause.
One fact was apparent as early as 1863: the South would not feed the
armies--the North must. That plan, so far as the Atlantic coast States
were involved, was foiled at Gettysburg. The only resource left was in
the West, the watershed of the Ohio, which Sherman was wrenching out
of General Johnston's fingers. In a military point of view, the great
Confederate strategist was right: he was conducting the campaign on
the principle Lee so admirably adopted in Virginia. But President
Davis had more than a military question to solve. If he could not
seize the granaries of the watershed, the Confederacy would die of
inanition.
That was what caused the change of commanders in Georgia, and the
desperate invasion that blew to pieces at Nashville; and it introduces
a little scouting incident upon which the event of that campaign
may have partially turned. General Hood was in camp at Jonesborough:
Forrest and Wheeler were detached to destroy Sherman's single thread
of supplies. Prisoners pretended to have been on half rations, and the
sanguine opinion at head-quarters was that Sherman was on the grand
retreat. That able strategist had disappeared, enveloping himself in
impenetrable vidette swarms of cavalry. He had pocketed one hundred
thousand men in the Georgia hills, and no one could find them; at
least, General Hood could not.
But others were not sanguine about Sherman's falling back. General
Jackson selected a major, a trusted scout, with twenty-five men, with
instructions to find Sherman. Again and again the scout and his little
band tried to pierce that impenetrable cloud, and could not. Then he
tried another plan. He snapped up a Federal squad, clothed a select
part of his little band in their uniform, and sent the others back
with the prisoners. Then he plunged boldly into the cloud, a squad
of Federals, bummers, pioneers. Does the reader reflect upon the
fine fibre of the material requisite for such an exploit? It is not
strength, courage or tactical cunning that is most wanted, but that
most difficult art, to be able to put off your own nature and put on
another's--to play a part, not as the actor, who struts his hour in
tinsel and mouths his speeches as no mortal man ever walked or talked
in real life, but as one who stakes his life upon a word, an accent;
requiring subtlety of analytic sense and quickness of thought.
Polyglot as was the speech of the Federal forces, suspicion, started
by that test, would run rapidly to results. Then there was the danger
of collision with the regiment whose uniform they had assumed. Swift,
constant motion was required. They swept to the head of the column,
and, to be brief, the first Federal pontoon thrown across the
Chattahoochee was laid with the assistance of these spies. The leader
threw himself on the bank and counted the regiments by their insignia
as they passed, until he saw the linen duster and the glittering staff
of the great commander himself as they clattered over the bridge. Then
to Campbellton, hard by, where their horses were rendezvoused, and
whip and spur to Jonesborough.
A council of war was sitting when the scout arrived. He was hurried
into its presence, and told his story with laconic, military
precision. Sherman's whole force was across the Chattahoochee and
marching on Jonesborough, twenty miles away.
"I have sure information to the contrary," said the commanding
general, singularly deceived by a strong conviction, enforced by
scouts who depended on rumor for authority. "It is some feint to cover
the general movement."
"I counted the flags, guidons, regimental insignia--such force
of cavalry, artillery, infantry," giving the numbers. "I saw and
recognized General Sherman," said the scout briefly.
His report was not, even then, credited, but, as a precaution, a
brigade of cavalry, with his battalion in the van, was sent out to
beat up the enemy. A short distance beyond Flint River they struck
the Federal line, which attacked at once, without feeling--a sure
indication of strength. The battalion was hurled back on the brigade,
the brigade rushed across Flint River, and back into the infantry
line, now throwing up tardy entrenchments at Jonesborough. The rest
is historical. It was but one of the rash throws of the dice for
that great stake, the watershed of the Ohio, and helps to show the
principles of military action by which it was lost.
WILL WALLACE HARNEY.
SIMILITUDE.
FROM GOETHE.
On every mountain-crest
Is rest:
In every vale beneath,
No breath
Stirs in the quietude:
The little birds are silent in the wood.
Soon, patient, weary breast,
Thou too wilt rest.
EMMA LAZAROS.
OUR HOME IN THE TYROL.
CHAPTER XI.
One great feature of the Hof has hitherto been passed over in
silence--the other lodgers; for, truth to say, there happened to be a
large family of tourists, who, following in the wake of their parents
and grandparents before them, strenuously adhered year after year to
the peaceful old Hof as their summer residence. _Schwalben_ by name,
they had English and American cousins, the swallows and martins: they
pursued a yearly routine of spending the winter months with other
connexions in Algeria or the Levant, then, dividing into groups,
returned to their various mountain or pastoral homes in cooler, more
verdant lands. Thus, on the second Wednesday in the month of May one
family always arrived at the old castle of Neuhaus, giving a sentiment
to the forsaken ruin which it could not otherwise possess, and about
the same week a number of their cousins and distant connexions took up
their quarters at the Hof.
[Illustration: SCHLOSS SCHWALBEN.]
The swallows in the Tyrol pass for holy birds. There is a tradition
that their forefathers helped the Lord Almighty to build the
firmament, but how and in what manner popular tradition does not tell
us. Being blessed by God and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the simple
peasant often leaves his doors and windows open to attract such
valued inmates, seeing that peace and happiness enter with them, and
lightning never strikes the roof where swallows build. Should they
forsake a house in the course of the summer, it is a sign of coining
misfortune. He who kills a swallow will lose father or mother.
A firm belief in the goodness of the swallows made Kathi honor and
welcome the familiar visitants. "They were no greedy guests," she
said, "for they always arrived when the bins of meal and winter
provisions were empty, and in the autumn, as soon as they were filled
again, they were off without bite or bit."
Many an old deserted room in the high-pitched roof was given over to
these inoffensive, man-loving birds. Hundreds of nests, some in good
condition, others deserted and out of repair, clung to old beams,
rafters and wainscots. A steady sound of fluttering and juvenile
chirping issued through the closed doors, contrasting with the silence
of the long stone corridor, whilst parent birds whirled gracefully in
and out through the dusty open windows, or poised themselves on the
warm shingles of the roof. The grandest, most comfortable quarters
were afforded in a large unused chamber occupying the front gable;
and, curiously enough, either in reality or fancy, we could not help
observing that whilst the various members of the community lived
fraternally together, there still seemed to be a distinction between
the swallows who dwelt in these spacious quarters and those who lived
in humbler lodgings behind. You might imagine that the dwellers in
front had become rich through trade, for they suffered no more from
the perpetual booming of the great house-clock above their heads, or
from the ever-moving pendulum which pulsated like a living thing in
their midst, than a manufacturer from the constant sound of his busy
steam-engines and rattling machinery. This swallow domain soon became
known as Castle Clock-Tower, and the chief inmates as the Herr and
Frau von Schwalbe and family, whilst, oddly enough, if it was our
daily pleasure to watch them, they showed an equal curiosity and
interest in us.
I do not know whether they considered that the fly-papers in our
sitting-room might be thwarting the designs of Providence on their
behalf, but we had hardly begun using them for the destruction of the
flies, when Herr von Schwalbe flew down from his castle through the
open window, apparently sent as a deputy to remonstrate with us on
this reckless waste of their legitimate game. He fluttered about,
glancing at the dead bodies strewn on the floor; then, taking his post
on the top of a picture hanging on the wall, remained several hours,
drawing his own deductions, but always too timid to raise a complaint.
In vain we tried to encourage him, to induce him to leave his lofty
position: the lonely visitant remained timidly stationary, so that
night came on before he ventured his flight.
Although Herr von Schwalbe might not approve of our unscrupulous
destruction of flies, he must have reported us a well-meaning family,
seeing that his wife ever afterward treated us with the greatest
confidence. She was an elegant lady, with the most approved Grecian
bend. She gave a kettle-drum once to her friends and relations at the
unseasonable hour of four o'clock in the morning, but in all other
cases observed her character of a wise, prudent little matron. Day
by day she conducted her happy family to a horizontal pole suitably
fastened to the upper gallery, where she cultivated their intellects,
and, assisted by her devoted husband, gave them flying and singing
lessons, each vocal attempt being rewarded by a liberal supply of
flies.
We likewise became interested in a couple of redstarts, who, waxing
bold, would tap at the casement, bidding us come and admire their
young in the nest under the portico. This was during our first visit:
on our second we found some dire misfortune had befallen the mother,
the children and the nest. The Hofbauer feared some servant must
have destroyed them. The poor little father remained attached to the
melancholy spot, and, refusing to be comforted because his dear ones
were not, flew round perpetually with a worm in his bill. In his
despair he would drop it untouched with piteous laments, until, as if
his small instinct had become crazed, he would go in search of a fresh
dainty morsel, and the sad scene was enacted over again. Poor forlorn
bird! Like the swallows, the redstarts are dedicated to the Virgin:
such high patronage, however, in this case availed nothing.
Neither did Anton's crossbill, which dwelt in the stube, have a much
happier fate. Although its master was very fond of it and tended it
well, it had, like others of its race, to live in a very small prison
suspended but a short way from the centre of the dark paneled ceiling.
Thus, in the winter between our two visits it died, suffocated by the
hot air of the overheated, ill-ventilated stube. Many poor pet birds
of this species are thus killed, the victims of ignorance; for when
a crossbill becomes sickly from its dark, hot, confined quarters, the
peasant does not wish to cure it, believing that this holy bird, which
tried to free the Lord from the cross, so sympathizes with redeemed
humanity that whenever illness or epidemic threatens the household the
devoted creature itself immediately takes the disease and dies, the
family escaping unharmed.
It would be wearisome to enumerate all the different features and
dispositions of the farm-yard inhabitants. Let us rather pass on to
Moro. Perhaps it was no pleasant surprise to some of us when the Hof
bauer having made the purchase of a house-dog, it proved to be none
other than a large, handsome rusty-black hound which had once sprung
out of a house near a crossing of the new railway, trying to attack
my father, who had to defend himself with his stick against the
disagreeable customer, until a voice from the house made the dog
instantly and quietly shrink away. The Hofbauer expressed his regret.
He, knowing nothing of the circumstances, had bought the animal out
of good-nature, as his master, an Italian and the overseer of the
railway, removing to a great distance, was forced to part with it. He
was anything but a savage dog, proving, on the contrary, easily cowed;
so that the fact of his ever having made such a sally soon surprised
us. Whether he missed the occupation of looking after the work-people
and guarding the line, or whether he only understood dialectical
Italian, certain it is that he proved a most inert, taciturn dog. He
would wander about for weeks in listless despondency, doing nothing
for his living, and showing no intelligence except in the way of
hiding bones. Although really young, his extreme slowness and apathy
conveyed the idea of an old dog. He crept sluggishly along in search
of some sunny nook where he might snooze in his melancholy. Now, it
fell to Moidel's duty to feed this silent, heavy dog, whereupon he,
rising gradually out of his secret woes, became her constant docile
companion, following her seriously and silently like a shadow, and
looking gravely mortified when she refused his attendance at church.
He disliked the least approach to a liberty, and, showing no interest
in what passed around him, was regarded by the family rather as a
pensioner than an active, useful member of the community.
With E----'s arrival, however, a strange though gradual change came
over Moro. He seemed from the first to perceive the strong sympathy
which she possessed for all dumb creatures; and had he been the
spellbound mortal of the fairy tale the transformation could hardly
have been more remarkable. As he felt he was no longer unappreciated
or misunderstood, he began to divide his attentions between Moidel
and his new friend. He became lively and active, condescending to
take walks in any direction but Bruneck--a place which, for some
inscrutable reason, he persistently avoided. He took to opening his
huge mouth and uttering a sonorous bark; unfurled his tail, which,
losing its stiffness, wagged incessantly; whilst, developing his
liveliness still more, he actually took to committing flying leaps
over a five-barred gate, and running wildly backward and forward in
the most ludicrous manner in front of the house whenever he perceived
his favorite E---- or some of her friends watching him.
Autumn had stepped in with the month of September. The harvest
was carried, and, according to an old custom, the village held a
thanksgiving service before the sowing of the seed-corn began; and,
whilst all were generous to their relations, none showed greater
hospitality than the worthy Hofbauer, who expected not only all his
own connexions, but also those of his dead wife, to share in the
annual jubilee.
Arduous were now the labors of the womankind preparatory to the feast.
Nanni No. I and Nanni No. 2 of the establishment might be met carrying
pounds and pounds of fresh meat into the cellar. In the stube sat
Kathi, seated on one of the wooden settees which surrounded the room,
her good old face bent silently over a paste board placed on one of
the square tables at which the large family took their meals. This was
more convenient than in the _gewölbe_, or huge pantry, which was
half buried in provender: besides, Kathi thought, it struck damp.
But Moidel might be found there, with a quiet smile on her dear ruddy
face, whilst her healthy bare brown arm moved backward and forward
with marvelous agility in the beating of eggs. Let us step into the
gewölbe, Kathi's domain proper. It is a marvelous place. Look at the
gayly-painted chests of the lowest decorative style of art, choking
with flour and buckwheat-meal; look at the racks full of heavy, flinty
household bread; at the pyramid of oblong bladder-like pastry, called
_krapfen_, which covers the table; at the smoked tongues, pig-cheeks,
feet and bologna sausage hanging from the ceiling. Light and air are
admitted by a large open window, but the atmosphere is so impregnated
with the odor of cummin (the favorite spice of the Tyrol, found in
bread, in dishes of vegetables, in puddings and pastry) that any sense
of great freshness is excluded. Rudely-made presses contain lint and
linen for accidents or sprains, whilst endless lotions and remedies
are carefully preserved in a long range of little drawers--cloves,
ginger, dried hyssop, fennel, anis and sage, all excellent remedies
for keeping the cold out of the stomach, to say nothing of a discreet
bottle of schnapps for the same purpose. There is many another herb,
dried by the careful Kathi between the two Lady Days, Mary's ascension
and Mary's birthday, which may usefully be employed for man or
beast--mullein, a very amulet against every kind of cough and
sore-throat; plantain, wormwood, red and white mugwort; nor are the
scrapings of hartshorn bought from a mountain huntsman forgotten. At
this moment, however, no one is dreaming for an instant of being ill:
that might happen after, but must not precede the feast.
Kathi and Moidel, experienced cooks and housewives, work steadily on,
without feeling the least anxiety for the success of their stupendous
efforts. They are only amazed that we should be surprised at the
quantity of their work--that they can remain, in fact, so cool in
the midst of their hundred and one boilings, singeings, choppings
and fryings. Kathi certainly wipes the perspiration off her brow, but
Moidel cannot even allow herself leisure for the act. The dinner
would not be in time if they stopped to enter the chapel, even for
Rosenkranz. So all the womankind repeat their Hail Marys hurrying
backward and forward. Then Moidel retires to snatch a few hours
of rest, wakes with a start, and is again alert at midnight, when,
attended, rather than aided, by two maids in waking stupefaction,
the baking, boiling and steaming receive a continuous impetus, Kathi
reappearing at four for the last triumphant efforts.
In good time the Hofbauer and Anton are equipped in their gala attire
for church, Moidel and the maids, in spite of their nocturnal labors,
following them briskly; so that they have not only said their prayers
and endeavored to understand the sermon, but actually joined in a
procession before the guests arrive. The sweet notes of a processional
hymn still float on the silent, balmy air as the sound of advancing
wheels is heard. Then several one-horse gigs are seen approaching, and
the geese hiss drowsily at the happy-faced _bauers_ and _bauerins_,
and their flocks of healthy, chubby children stuffed in before and
behind; and so they drive carefully into the large yard, where Onkel
Johann, acting as hostler, proudly though bashfully receives them.
There is a sober gayety and rejoicing about the elders, a suppressed
merriment about the youngsters. They do not expect much waiting upon
before the feast. They know that a strong but silent friendship exists
between them all and their host--that they are ready to help each
other in any possible emergency without making a fuss about it. So the
Hofbauer can walk back leisurely from church, and Kathi can attend to
her onerous duties in the kitchen, without a single visitor feeling
slighted.
Soon the crowd of simple guests is seated at table in the large
sitting-room, which we have vacated for the occasion. The Hofbauer
stands at a side-table and carves, and Anton in his long white apron
and bib waits as serving-man. Onkel Johann, however, sits at table.
The aunt and Moidel are busy dishing below: they will have their share
of good things when they go to the return feasts. Of pickings
and leavings there are none: it would be an insult to send away a
half-emptied plate; and for the same reason no dish is left untouched,
though it is a banquet that might even satiate a work-house. Soup,
sausage, roast veal, baked apples and stewed prunes; stewed liver,
fried liver, millet pudding; boiled beef with horseradish and
beet-root; hung beef; cabbage dished with tongue and pork; noodles;
and then a second soup to wash down what has gone before, but
followed by more substantial in the form of liver-cake, in which that
ingredient has been baked with bread-crumbs, eggs, onions and raisins.
Then come batter dumplings, one sort of _knödel_ sprinkled with
poppy-seeds, roast beef with salad, and finally coffee.
There is little talking; only a clatter of plates, dishes, knives and
forks as the honest guests deliberately but persistently vanquish each
stage of the feast.
After coffee, "the mother's own sister" is called aside by Kathi, in
order that she, for her own and the dear dead Hofbauerin's sake
(of whom, bless her! in Kathi's eyes she is the very image), may be
privately presented to us, the foreign Herrschaft. A comely, compact
little figure, with delicate features, small hands and feet, and a
pair of dove-like eyes.
Wishing to be polite, she says it is _gar curios_ that any of the
Herrschaft should understand German. Immediately she fears this
implies ignorance on our part, and adds an apology: "But certainly
such Herrschaft who are so up in things of heaven and earth would know
German."
Then she waits with a sense of relief for one of us to speak. At this
moment, however, a bevy of bright, cheerful little peasant-girls,
who have been hovering in the distance, taking courage, approach and
cluster in a ring around her. She shows by her face that she fears
this is a liberty, but is nevertheless relieved by their supporting
her. We ask their names, and she goes off into a string of Madels,
Lisies, Nannies, who all smile spontaneously, and have not only to set
her right as to their ages, but, to their infinite astonishment, as to
their relationship to herself.
"Why, mother, I am your daughter!" says one little girl reproachfully.
"Why, aunt, my mother is dead, you know!" adds another, pulling at her
sleeve and whispering this correction. Then the whole group burst into
a shy titter.
The good soul stands calmly this battery of juvenile reproaches: "Ho,
are not you all my children? Have I not brought you all through the
measles, knitted the stockings for all your feet, until I taught you
to knit for yourselves? Souls and bodies, you are all dear to me: I
treat you all alike."
She looks so lovingly on them that they are not quite sure whether
they have done right or wrong in correcting her. So they stand a dumb,
admiring circle, whilst she adds:
"If the Herrschaft ever could get as far as Pfalzen, where I and the
children live, they would find no great big house like the Hof, but
plenty of small, snug farms amidst corn-fields, in any one of which
the Hof-Herrschaft would be made welcome, but more especially in mine.
It is not so very far. See from the window! There, over Sankt Jörgen
and over the woods rises our tall spire with two other spires; only
these are quite a long way from each other, though they are all
mixed-like at a distance, just as I mix up the young people. The
Herrschaft will not forget the name--Pfalzen?"
Having brought out this invitation with a great effort, she now
plunges into a sea of fears as to the liberty she has taken. So one of
the Herrschaft, rashly coming to her assistance, assured her it would
be impossible for her at least to forget the name of Pfalzen. Somebody
had told her of a certain tailor of Pfalzen who, within memory of man,
returning from a wedding at Percha, and having passed St. George on
his homeward way at eight o'clock of the evening, suddenly saw the
road divide before him. This made him stop in astonishment, and before
he could decide which way to take it had grown dark. Then he became
sore afraid, especially when he espied a group of ladies dressed
in white, who came up to him, and, addressing him in playful tones,
encompassed and stopped him. He, however, could not stand this, and
speaking in a loud tone he reproached them, for, though they were
ladies, he soon saw by their rude looks that they meant him mischief.
Then they began abusing and tormenting him, until he laid himself down
on the ground with his face to the earth. Now the spell seemed broken,
for, though the spiteful women remained, they were restrained from
hurting him; and with the first sound of the morning Angelus these
white ladies, who were nothing but tormenting spirits, fled, and he,
rising up, went on his way home.
"Herr Je!" said the gentle little woman, "could it have been the Hof
Moidel who told you _that_? Or could you have heard it at Percha?
or by the fire some winter evening? But you have never been in these
parts in winter. The tailor, you see, must have found the wedding-wine
too strong."
"Barbara the sewing-woman--" began a young voice, which immediately
collapsed, the speaker retreating with great impetuosity behind her
mother or aunt, whichever it might be.
Then each little member of the maidenly circle looked very odd, and
their good relative uttered hurriedly but mildly, "Oh, it's nothing.
How could you, Lisi? Behave yourselves, children!"
However, an explanation of the sewing-woman Barbara being pleaded for
on our part, the good woman nervously continued: "It is only a foolish
story. Only that the sewing-woman Barbara was sweet on Weaver Thomas,
and he could not abide her. 'I would rather,' he told her, 'be a beast
in the stall than be your wedded husband.' The sewing-woman said he
should rue the day he thus insulted her. And sure enough, from that
time he could neither eat nor drink, growing poor and thin in the
body. Everybody said, 'Sewing-woman Barbara has struck him with the
evil eye.' I am not sure but that his teeth chattered, which they say
is a sign. A miller urged him to have the letters I.N.R.I. stitched
into his clothes (it is a wonderful preservative on corn-bins and
stable doors against the evil eye), but Weaver Thomas replied he was
sick of stitching. Yet what is to become of the man? Not a drop of
wine does he touch now but it flies to his head--not a kreuzer of his
hard-earned money does he put into his pocket but it oozes away like
water. Ah, it is an ugly story! I wish there were no such fearsome,
boggy things. The world would be better without them."
By this time a fat lad had ventured up, and stood gaping behind the
maidens. He was not of Pfalzen, but the girls spoke to him as a cousin
of the house. In spite of their encouragement, he merely gaped and
stared, without answering a word. The pleasures of the table had, in
fact, brought him into a state of speechless discomfort. It was not of
wine that he had partaken, though it had freely circulated, to judge
by the great empty gallon bottles, but he had stuck loyally to the
principles laid down and acted on by his elders, of doing full justice
to the dishes. Feeling now, therefore, exceedingly the worse for his
praiseworthy exertions, he remained leaning disconsolately with his
back against the wall long after the church-bells had struck up a
merry clang, vigorously calling the Hofbauer, his men-servants and
maid-servants and the strangers who were within his gates, to church.
Good Kathi, however, whilst clearing away the empty glasses, looked
compassionately upon him as on one of her fattening chickens in danger
of pip, and patiently inveigled him to a cozy nook down stairs, where
his heavy breathing and steady snorts kept time to her monotonous
dish-washing. On he slept during prayers, during the hour spent at the
Blauen Bock, when the Hofbauer treated the priest and his guests on
this auspicious thanksgiving-day. He woke up, however, to do his duty
like a man "with a mouthful of supper" whilst the horses were being
put into the gigs. Then, in a state of heavy, speechless resignation,
he was conveyed to his seat between a bauer and his wife, which,
though a tight fit in the morning, had strangely become tighter, and
where, circumstances thus pinning his arms to his side, and with his
aching head upon his breast in the most uncomfortable of attitudes,
the poor fat boy was jolted away in the twilight.
The other relations, all weightier mortals, more or less, than when
they arrived, were packed and squeezed into their creaking vehicles;
the very small vacuums remaining on or under the seats, to say nothing
of broad laps, being filled with krapfen. You would indeed have
supposed that the Hof were one great patent krapfen manufactory,
with the sole right of making, baking by steam and selling these
indigestible, leathery, yet brittle puffs so dear to the Tyrolese
palate, had not the figures of men, women and children, humble guests
at more modest dwellings, been seen filing along the highway or
crossing the moorland slopes, each bearing a light but bulging bundle
of krapfen tied up in a gay blue, crimson or yellow handkerchief.
It was indeed a krapfen dispensation. A piled-up offering stood in the
little oratory employed as a store-room by us; the cock crowed and
the hens clucked for their share of the Herrschaft's krapfen under
the parlor windows in the early morning; the men- and maid-servants
hurried buoyantly into town to sell their krapfen perquisites to less
favored mortals; the pedestrian bricklayer and carpenter, respectable
men with money stored away in their broad belts--portions of that
great army of Tyrolese who, possessing neither trade nor manufactures
in their native land, are forced in an ant-like manner to stray into
Bavaria and Austria until they can return laden with their
winter store, since the mere fattening of cattle cannot support a
nation,--these respectable but footsore men, wending their way from
Steiermark, were received with a hearty welcome and krapfen; and the
wandering family, who were not at all respectable, but were treated
with some distrust and more commiseration--the traveling tinker,
his dark-eyed, dark-skinned wife and saucy, grimy children, who were
barred and bolted with their barrow, their rags and their kettles in
the barn that night as in a traveler's rest--ate with marvelous relish
their bountiful-gleanings of this great krapfen harvest.
* * * * *