In the twelfth edition of _The Ambulator_, edited nearly half a century
ago by that trustworthy topographer, Mr. E. W. Brayley, under "Epping
Forest," we read "a plan for the inclosure of the Forest has been
recently projected." And this plan has been slowly but surely put into
execution; the inclosures having been so numerous that little remains of
this charming forest district, with its verdant glades, secluded dells,
thickets, majestic oaks, and sinking vistas of enchanting wilderness and
cheerful landscape, to gladden the hearts of the toilers in the vast
metropolis.
The Forest remains where it was. Brayley describes it as a royal chase,
extending from Epping almost to London, anciently a very extensive
district; and, under the name of the Forest of Essex, including a great
part of the county. It had afterwards the name of Waltham Forest, which
it long since yielded to its present appellation. To this Forest, that
of Hainault, which lies to the south-east, was once, it is supposed, an
appendage: it was formerly styled "the Queen's Forest," and it possesses
more beautiful scenery than, perhaps, any other forest in England. The
Crown possesses the whole of the rights over Hainault, and the
encroachments are not nearly so numerous here as in Epping Forest, where
the Crown has only certain rights--the right of vert and venison. The
loss of the picturesque features of wild expanse of woodlands, heath,
and mosses; of vast masses of umbrageous tree-tops, and little patches
of cultivation--here and there a little town, sending up its fleecy
smoke amidst the forest boughs--must excite concern amongst all who take
interest in the amusements of the people. How truthfully has the
isolated picture of forest life been sung:
"From age to age no tumult did arouse
The peaceful dwellers; there they lived and died,
Passing a dreamy life, diversified
By nought of novelty, save now and then
A horn, resounding through the forest glen,
Woke them as from a trance, and led them out
To catch a brief glimpse of the hunt's wild rout--
The music of the hounds; the tramp and rush
Of steeds and men;--and then a sudden hush
Left round the eager listeners; the deep mood
Of awful, dead, and twilight solitude,
Fallen again upon that forest vast."
The Forest remains where and as it was, save that invasions on the
waste, and encroachments, have from time to time greatly restricted its
extent; not so the city, for that has advanced, and meets the old
liberty at half-way. Now the metropolis reaches to Bow, or nearly to
Stratford, where the Forest commences; and there the road divides, one
branch leading northward to Chigwell, the other eastward to Romford. In
extent it reaches five miles from Ilford on the south, nearly to Abridge
on the north, by four miles from Woodford-bridge on the west, to
Havering-at-Bower on the east. Were the whole area of this scope one
continuous chase, there would be some 12,000 acres; but from the
numberless excisions from, and appropriations of the liberty, the
contents of the whole do not at present amount to 4,000 acres.
It appears that an Act of Parliament was passed (the 14th and 15th
Vict.) for the disafforesting and inclosure of Hainault Forest; that on
the 24th August, 1851, a commission was formed for the purpose: and
summary execution was done upon 14,000 oak-trees, which had stood
unmolested for centuries. This was preliminary to the utter clearance,
parcelling out, and selling off of the whole domain.[85]
The signal advantage of Epping Forest over all other open spaces is that
in it alone thousands can at the same time enjoy the country in its
natural aspect in that privacy without which the country, as such, is no
enjoyment at all. That the inhabitants of London highly appreciate this
advantage is shown by the fact that thousands every fine day in the year
pass by the Parks that are provided for them near their own doors, and
travel weary miles to reach the fragment of the Forest that is left to
them.
The case of Epping Forest is matter of dispute. There is an opinion
entertained by persons whose opinions command respect that the lords of
the several manors included within the precincts of Epping Forest are
entitled to call for an inclosure of the portions of the Forest in which
they are respectively interested, whenever they please; and that the
Crown is not justified, on the ground of public advantage, in setting
up its rights as an impediment to such inclosure.
The case as between the lords of the manor, the Crown, and the public
appears to be this:--The Forest comprises the wastes of certain manors,
over which, from time immemorial, the lords of these manors had the
accustomed rights of pasturage; the Crown had the forestal right of
keeping deer in them, and for that purpose of keeping them uninclosed:
and the general public had the common right of going upon them as
uninclosed land. The lords of the manor are in the actual enjoyment of
all the rights of property they ever had in the Forest, but they desire
to acquire a species of property in it which has never hitherto belonged
to them, and which is inconsistent with other existing rights. The right
of the public to go upon the Forest land while it is in its present open
condition has become one of transcendent importance; and the real
question presented to the Crown is whether it shall cede its rights for
the benefit of half-a-dozen persons who desire to acquire a valuable
property to which they have no present title, or maintain them for the
benefit of the large proportion of the British people who live in London
and its vicinity. In short, it appears that the rights of the Crown and
the public have not been maintained in Epping Forest, because the
Government would not incur the expense of litigation.
To show how persons sometimes defeat the cause which they advocate, it
may be mentioned that at a meeting held at the Bald-faced Stag,
Buckhurst-hill, upon this Forest question, several speakers expatiated
at great length on the injustice of excluding the working classes of the
east end of London from the rural enjoyments of the Forest, owing to the
inclosures made by the lords of the manor and other parties. It was,
however, shown at the meeting that two gentlemen of the Committee had
inclosed a very large portion of the Forest, parts that are the most
picturesque and that were most resorted to by the London holiday folks;
but, alas! no more Forest remains in the once sylvan neighbourhood of
Buckhurst-hill.
The reduction of Epping Forest began in the reign of King John, and was
confirmed by Edward IV., when all that part of the Forest which lay to
the north of the highway from Stortford to Colchester (very distant from
the present boundaries) was disafforested. The Forest was further
reduced; but the metes and bounds of it were finally determined in 1640.
The office of Chief Forester for Essex was deemed highly honorary, and
was generally bestowed on some illustrious person. The stewardship was
also usually enjoyed by one of the nobility. It continued in the De
Veres, Earls of Oxford, for many generations; but was taken from them by
Edward IV., for their adherence to the Lancastrian party. On the
accession of Henry VII., it was restored by grant to John, Earl of
Oxford. The steward had the power to substitute a lieutenant, one
riding-forester, and three yeoman-foresters, in the three bailiwicks of
the Forest. He also had many lucrative privileges, and was Keeper of
Havering-at-Bower, and of the house and park trees.
We remember, many years since, to have visited the Forest for the sake
of inspecting the house known as _Queen Elizabeth's Hunting Lodge_,
which stands about a mile west of the main road to Epping; and the most
direct road to which, in the heart of the Forest, we found to be from
about midway between the Bald-faced Stag Inn and the village of
Loughton. The view from this point is of surpassing beauty and extent;
whilst it is no wide stretch of conjecture to set down the ancient
forest as nearly covering the entire county. The towns, villages, and
seats which now stud the district, and the roads which intersect the
woody waste, may have been the work of a few centuries; inns and lodges
would be among the earliest buildings for retainers, whose business it
was to defend and preserve this royal chase, for the privilege of
hunting here was confined to the Sovereign and his favourites. Again,
those who flocked thither, with such privilege, would well repay the
hospitalities of an inn, and "hosteller," even were we to leave out of
the reckoning the boon companionship of foresters, and the debauched
habits of marauders, who fattened by the infringement of the royal
privilege, in wholesale deer-stealing for the London markets. We were
told that in Epping churchyard is the tombstone of a follower, whose
business it was to convey venison to the metropolis, but who, in one of
his midnight returns, was shot by an unknown hand; the almost headless
body being found on the road next morning.
The Lodge stands in the parish of Chingford,[86] about one mile from the
village, and thus served the purpose of a manor-house, the courts being
held here. Chingford Hall, the actual manor-house, is situated a short
distance hence; but Mr. Lysons thinks it probable that the site of the
ancient manor-house was that of the present Lodge. The manor was
purchased in or about 1666, by Thomas Boothby, Esq., from whose family
it descended by marriage to the Heathcotes. The Lodge consists of the
main building, a basement, and two floors,--and a building abutting upon
it, chiefly occupied by the spacious staircase. The exterior has little
of the air of antiquity comparatively with the interior. The basement is
principally the kitchen, where the large projecting chimney, the olden
fire-dogs, and cheerful wood fire, reminded us of "the rural life," if
they carried us not back to
"Great Eliza's golden time."
The staircase is of surprising solidity: its width is about six feet; it
is divided by six landings, with four stairs between each, and each
stair or step consists of a solid oak sill. The first floor contains two
chambers, one hung with tapestry in fine preservation, and the chimney
opening has a flattened arch. The height of the first floor and basement
has been sacrificed to the story above, which entirely consists of a
large room, or hall, entered from the staircase by a low, wide doorway.
The dimensions of the hall we take to be twenty-four feet wide, and
forty-two feet high; its height reaches to the open roof, the tiles of
which are merely hidden by rough plaster; and the sides of the room
consist of massive timbers, filled in with plaster, and originally lit
with four windows. The roof-tree, we should add, is supported by timbers
which spring into two pointed arches, and render it probable that the
original roof was of a different form as well as material from the
present one. In this apartment were held the manorial courts; and on the
plain plaster walls hung three large-sized whole length portraits of one
of the Boothbys (lords of the manor), in infancy, accompanied by his
brother, in boyhood, and in manhood. The timbers of the staircase sides
and roof are massive, and spring into arched frames; and all the
doorways in the building have flattened arches.
Tradition reports the Lodge to have been a favourite hunting-seat of
Queen Elizabeth. It was occupied, at the time of our visit, by the
bailiff of the manor, who had lived there twenty years, and his father
occupied the Lodge half a century before him. To the tradition was
added, that Elizabeth was accustomed to ride upstairs on horseback, and
alight at the door of the large room, upon a raised place, which is to
this day called _the horse-block_. We confess the story savours of the
marvellous; but the width and solidity, and many landings of the
staircase, are in its favour; and, not many years previously, a wager of
ten pounds was won by a sporting gentleman riding an untrained pony up
the assigned route of the chivalrous Queen.
There are circumstances related which render it more than probable that
the Lodge was fitted up for the reception of Elizabeth. That the Queen
was extremely fond of the chase, and hunted at an advanced age, is a
well-established fact. That she hunted in Epping Forest is nearly
ascertained; for the Earl of Leicester once owned Nakedhall Hawke, or
old Wansted House, in the neighbourhood: it is mentioned in a document
of Richard II., and seems to have been the manorial residence. Here, in
May 1578, Leicester entertained Queen Elizabeth four or five days, and
one of the rooms in the mansion was called _the Queen's_. Again, in this
mansion was solemnized Leicester's marriage with the Countess of Essex,
Sept. 20, 1578, the Queen being then on a visit to Mr. Stonard, at
Loughton, in the Forest; and old Wansted House is introduced in the
background of a picture of Queen Elizabeth, in the collection at
Welbeck.
Of the Queen's _hunting the hart_ in Enfield Chase we have this
circumstantial record. Twelve ladies in white satin attended her on
their ambling palfreys, and twenty yeomen clad in green. At the entrance
to the forest she was met by fifty archers in scarlet boots and yellow
caps, armed with gilded bows; one of whom presented to her a
silver-headed arrow winged with peacock's feathers. The splendid show
concluded, according to the established laws of the chase, by the
offering of the knife to the Princess, as first lady on the field; and
her _taking say_ of the buck with her own fair and royal hand.
In addition to the Hunting Lodge, we found other memorials of the age of
Elizabeth in the neighbourhood. Thus, the hill, or point, when we left
the main road to cross the Forest to the Lodge, is to this day
remembered as Buckhurst-hill, as may be reasonably supposed, from
Sackville, Lord Buckhurst, the accomplished poet, and favoured flower of
Elizabeth's court.
In conclusion, the Londoners have lost the Epping Hunt, and the "Common
Hunt" no longer goes out; and the old Pumpmaker's Fair, which originated
in a wayzgoose of beans and bacon, is no longer held around the oak of
Fairlop; but let us not lose the Forest itself; else, of what service is
our railway gain?