The islands of the West, which are commonly called Philipinas, are so
numerous that no number can be assigned to them, and most of them are
inhabited. They begin almost at Maluco and run in a general north and
south direction to the island of Luzon, which is the northernmost and
the nearest to China and Japon. This island of Luzon, the one where we
are settled, is the principal one of the islands, and the richest and
largest. It is about four hundred leguas in circumference. It was
formerly circumnavigated by Captain Juan de Salzedo and then after the
year 80 by Captain Don Juan de Arze at the order of Governor Francisco
de Sande. It extends northwest and southeast. This island has many
different peoples and languages quite distinct one from the other. The
principal ones, however, are the Tagálogs, whom the Spaniards commonly
call Moros, though without any right or reason, for they are not nor
have ever been Moros. Others are the Pampangos, Zambales, Ylocos, and
Camarines. The remaining peoples can be reduced to the above. [96] This
island has four large wealthy provinces where the Spaniards are
colonized at present.
The first is the province of the Tagálogs and Pampangos. It is near
the city of Manila which was founded by Adelantado Miguel Lopez del
Gaspi. The governors [of the islands] now reside here. It is located in
a latitude of fourteen and two-thirds degrees. The people of this
province are the best of all these islands. They are the most civilized
and are truly our friends. They are better clothed than the others,
both men and women. They are a light-complexioned people, well-built
and even-featured, and are very fond of adorning themselves with
jewels, of which they have a great plenty. They also reap large
harvests of rice and of cotton, and weave considerable cloth which is
exported to Nueva España; while there is wax in great abundance. They
are keen traders, and have traded with China for many years, and before
the advent of the Spaniards, they sailed to Maluco, Malaca, Hazian,
[97] Parani, Burnei, and other kingdoms. These peoples had no kings in
these islands, but their method of government was by chiefs, who were
the ones who were most powerful and possessed more property. Those
chiefs were tyrannical to a degree, and treated all the other people
like slaves, seizing their possessions and children whenever they
pleased. They were very much inclined to wars and one village was
constantly waging war against another, so that there were very few that
were at peace, and they acted like barbarians in those wars. At the
death of any chief, they had to cut off many heads in order to avenge
his death, and they made many feasts and dances in honor of those
heads. As a sign of mourning they ate no cleaned rice for a whole year,
but only herbs and vegetables.
Their houses were filled with wooden and stone idols (which they called
Taotao and Lichac) for they had no temples. They said that the soul
entered into one of those idols at the death of any of their parents or
children. Consequently, they reverenced them and asked them for life,
health, and riches. Those idols were called anitos. When they were sick
they cast lots to ascertain which anito had caused them the sickness,
and thereupon made great sacrifices and feasts for that anito. Their
feasts always ended in drunken revels, for they were much given to the
vice of drinking, and it has happened that they will drink constantly
for two or three days. However, they have one characteristic, namely,
that although they are drunk, they do not entirely lose their senses,
and I have never seen any of them fall down because he was drunk. We
believe the reason to be because the wine, although powerful at the
beginning, soon loses its strength. They worshiped idols which were
called Alpriapo, Lacapati, and Meilupa, but God has, in His goodness,
enlightened them with the grace of His divine gospel, and they worship
the living God in spirit. All these people have abandoned all their
superstitions and alone profess the holy Catholic faith. [98] To the
glory of the Lord, most of them are Christians, and for those who are
not it is for no other lack than that of ministers, which is one of the
greatest pities and miseries that has ever been seen. All this people
give tribute in gold, silver, and other things, both to the king our
sovereign and to others [who are] private persons, by whom they are
seized and betrayed and compelled to perform services, both in the
raids and wars which are made, and in other services, and do not
receive instruction. Those people observe that fully and declare it.
There are many excellent churches, and the people are eager to serve
them. The boys are very clever and bright, and very easily learn how to
write, read, sing, play, and dance. They are taught all those things so
that the church may be better served and so that they may be incited to
become good Christians upon seeing how to serve God. I have always
lived in this province, where I have baptized many with my own
hand—more, I believe, counting little and big, than one thousand. I
trust, God helping, from what I have learned of them, that many of them
are saved. The boys especially will become excellent Christians; for
they have lively understanding and take very earnestly to the things of
our holy faith and become such that our Spaniards are astonished at it.
I have confessed many, both men and women, and I have been astonished
to see with what contrition they confess, and how well they know how to
accuse themselves—much better than many Spaniards. There are very few
in this province who are not Christians although they have not heard
the preaching for more than ten years, for before that time there was
enough to do in pacifying the land. They hold the holy water in great
devotion and always keep it in their houses. They take it to their
fields and whatever their necessity, they immediately go to the church
for water. They even bathe their swellings with holy water, and always
take it on entering and leaving the church so that it is necessary to
replenish the founts two or three times a week.
It is a temperate land and not so hot as is thought there [in España];
especially for eight months of the year when no cold or heat is felt.
The city of Manila is located near the sea, whose waves beat against
the houses, on the shore of a very large and full river. That river
flows from a lake located about six leguas from the city. That lake is
of fresh water, is thirty leguas in circumference, and its marge and
[surrounding] mountains are densely populated. There are twelve
convents with their churches which are very large and well built of
wood in the vicinity of that lake. Eight of them are of discalced
friars [99] (and two of those convents are now built of stone), and the
other four belong to the Augustinian fathers. There are also many other
churches in the villages which are the visitas of the capitals where
the convents are located. That lake is divided among ten encomenderos
[100] and they live very well, for it is a rich land and abounds in all
kinds of food, especially game and fish, more than one would believe
possible, and also buffaloes, deer, and [wild] swine. The city of
Manila is well supplied from there.
The people of this island are very skilful in their handling of gold.
They weigh it with the greatest skill and delicacy that has ever been
seen. The first thing that they teach their children is the knowledge
of gold and the weights with which they weigh it, for there is no other
money among them. This province, as well as all the others, has the
greatest abundance of cocoa palms. This is one of the most fruitful and
profitable trees that has ever been found hitherto for [the sustenance
of] human life. The things that are obtained from this tree seem
incredible to one who has not seen it. For, first, the wood is used in
the construction of houses, and the leaves are used for tiles. The
fruit is the cocoanut which is good to eat. They have a liquor inside,
from which is made milk for cooking rice and other things. Oil is
obtained from it which is medicinal like the oil of aparicio. Drinking
vessels are made from the shells and a considerable number of them are
taken to España. Wine is also made from it (and it is so good that
that of España is no better), as well as brandy, vinegar, honey,
preserves, and other things that I do not remember. Consequently from
the palm the people get whatever they wish. This province contains a
very great abundance of game such as buffaloes (which the other islands
do not have), many deer, wild boars, a great abundance of goats, and
many waterfowl. Many swine and fowl are raised in the houses, eight of
the latter being sold for four reals. A very great abundance of fish
including sardines are caught in all the settlements of this island,
and those people relish it more than meat.