Many of the peaks which had been concealed from us the day before, came

forth from their circling mists, at intervals, on our return, and were

pointed out to us by their different names; but as we came back in the

evening to Pau, the range which was most familiar to us re-appeared in

all its splendour, much clearer than when we were nearer to them.

At Beost, in the midst of the valley, lives a man, whose industry and

genius have made him an object of curiosity and interest in the country,

and whose fame must probably cause considerable interruption to his

studies in the season of the baths; for it has become quite the fashion

to visit him. He is called Pierrine, or Gaston Saccaze; is a shepherd

who has always lived in these mountains, and has made himself so

thoroughly acquainted with the botany of the district as to have become

a valuable correspondent of the members of the Jardin des Plantes at

Paris: he taught himself Latin, by means of an old dictionary which he

bought for a few sous, and, by dint of extraordinary perseverance, has

made himself master of the whole Flora of the Pyrenees.

CHAPTER VII.

GABAS--POPULAR SONGS--PONT CRABE--THE RECLUSE OF THE VALLÉE

D'OSSAU--MARGUERITE--THE SPRINGS.

I made another excursion to the Vallée d'Ossau in the February of 1843,

when the weather was singularly mild--infinitely more so than when I was

first there in October, and the clearness of the sky enabled me to see

all the mountains which were before concealed in clouds. With an

adventurous party, all anxious to take advantage of the propitious

moment, I undertook a long _walk_--for at this season it is difficult to

procure horses--towards Gabas, having this time the Pic du Midi bright

and clear and close in view. The carriage was able to advance along the

steep road which extends above the foaming Gave de Gabas, nearly half

way to the desired spot; for the snow had fallen in very small quantity

during the winter, and there had been no interruption to the roads.

From a certain place, however, where two paths diverged, we found that

the height we had reached had brought us to the snows, and that it was

too slippery for the horses to proceed; accordingly we alighted and

performed the rest of the journey on foot. The walk was very exciting

and amusing, our feet sinking deep in snow at every step, while a

burning sun, _gaümas_, as the guide said, was shining over our heads,

glittering on the white peaks above, and sparkling in the deep, clear,

green torrent at the foot of the box-covered hills, over which silver

streams of water were flowing from the summits into the murmuring wave,

which churlishly received their tributary visits, and disputed the place

they took, dashing, foaming, and springing over the enormous masses of

rock in their course, till all the valley re-echoed with their ceaseless

quarrelling.

Every now and then we stopped to look back at the sublime scenery, and

to make a hasty sketch of the peaks, which tempted us to pause. Summer

and winter seemed combined in our stroll, and it appeared as if we were

realizing the fable of "_the man, the sun, and the cloud_," not knowing

whether to yield to the heat or the cold. We met two Spaniards hurrying

along, who had crossed the mountains from Saragossa: they were fine,

strong-looking men, and sufficiently wild; but too dirty and slovenly to

excite much admiration _here_; if we had seen them on the opposite side

of the ravine they might have passed for picturesque, in the same manner

as the singing of our guide might have delighted our ears had we heard

him from a distance: as it was, he indulged our request by intoning some

of the pastorals of Despourrins, which, if the spirit of the poet of the

Pyrenees is wandering amongst the mountains, must have greatly

_perturbed_ it.

A long, loud, unmelodious drawl, like a dirge, with many a dying fall,

was the vehicle in which the tender expressions of the poet were

conveyed to our ears; and I was reproached by my companions for having

injudiciously praised the verses of the Swan of Béarn: certainly heard

in mutilated fragments, and sung by such a musician--"_La Haüt sus las

Mountagnes_" and "_La Plus Charmante Anesquette_," were not calculated

to excite much admiration.

A lady of our party, who was acquainted with the popular songs of

Languedoc, repeated a few verses to our guide, who took up the strain,

which was not new to him: it is singular how widely these simple songs

are spread from one part of France to the other; indeed, they are

scarcely confined to any country, and, like traditions, seem to have

wandered up and down into all regions. For instance, I was very much

surprised, a short time ago, to see in a work on Persian popular

literature, an almost literal version of a song, well-known on the

Bourbonnais, which I had met with at Moulins.

I questioned the guide on the subject of the superstitions of the

valley, and found that he had himself _seen_ the fairies called _Les

Blanquettes_: those charming mountain-fairies who roam along the peaks

singing mournful songs. "I had often heard of them," said he, "and many

of my friends had seen them hovering about the mouths of caverns on the

highest points of the mountains. I wished, therefore, to satisfy myself,

and went to the spot where others had beheld them, and sure enough there

they were, figures in white, like women, in a circle round the entrance

of a cavern."

"And were these fairies?" I asked.

He paused a moment, and then said--"As for fairies, that is an old

story, which some people believe: these that I saw _were only shadows_."

It appears to me that superstition is fast wearing out in the Pyrenees,

as well as everywhere else.

As we continued our way, we observed, along the snowy path, tracks of

the feet of animals--a troop of wild-cats had evidently been before us,

and here and there we remarked a print, which could be nothing less than

the foot-mark of a wolf. The flight of a large bird, which I believe to

have been a vulture, added to the solemnity of the scene; but there were

less of these indications of solitude than I hoped to experience, for

all was sunshine and gaiety around.

We observed near the Pont Crabe, _i.e._ Pont des Chèvres, on the

opposite side of the ravine, a desolate-looking mill, placed in so wild

and rugged a position, that one could not but pity those whose fortune

might have condemned them to a residence there all the year round: a

story attached to the cottage made it still more sad.

It appears that a young girl, the very flower of maidens in the Vallée

d'Ossau, had been deceived and deserted by her lover, and on the point

of becoming a mother, when she consulted the priest of her parish,

confessing to him her weakness, and entreating his aid to enable her to

propitiate offended Heaven. The virtuous and holy man, shocked at the

infirmity and want of propriety exhibited by the unfortunate girl, was

very severe in his censures, and informed her that there was no way left

for her but by penance and mortification to endeavour to wipe away her

sin. He condemned her, therefore, to take up her abode in that solitary

cottage, far away from all human habitation, to spend her life in

prayer and lamentation, and to endeavour, by voluntary affliction, to

win her way to heaven.

She did so; and she and her child lived for ten years in that secluded

spot, where the constant sound of murmuring waters drowned her sighs,

and where no intruding foot came to disturb her solitude, except when

the good priest, from time to time, visited her, to afford the

consolation of his pious prayers. At the end of that time her spirit

departed, and her little son was received into the convent, of which he

became a member.

THE RECLUSE OF THE VALLÉE D'OSSAU.

"Say, ye waters raging round,

Say, ye mountains, bleak and hoar,

Is there quiet to be found,

Where the world can vex no more?

May I hope that peace can be

Granted to a wretch like me!

"Hark! the vulture's savage shriek--

Hark! the grim wolf scares the night,--

Thunder peals from peak to peak,

Ghastly snows shroud ev'ry height.

Hark! the torrent has a tone,

Dismal--threat'ning--cold--alone!

"Was I form'd for scenes like this,

Flattered, trusting, vain and gay--

In whose smile _he_ said was bliss,

Who to hear was to obey?--

Yes! weak idol! 'tis thy doom,

This thy guerdon--this thy tomb!

"When I from my heart have torn

All the mem'ries cherish'd long;

When my early thought at morn,

And my sigh at even-song,

Have not all the self-same theme,

Peace upon my soul may gleam!

"When no more I paint his eyes,

When his smile no more I see,

And his tone's soft melodies

Wake not in each sound to me;

When I can efface the past,

I may look for calm--at last.

"When resentment is at rest,

Scorn and sorrow, rage and shame,

Can be still'd within my breast--

And I start not at his name;

When I weep, nor faint, nor feel,

Then my heart's deep wounds may heal.

"Years, long years, it yet will take,

Spite of pain and solitude,

Ere this heart can cease to ache,

And no restless dreams intrude:

Ere I crush each fond belief,

And oblivion vanquish grief.

"It might be--but in my child

All his father lives the while;

Such his eyes--so bright, so wild--

Such his air, his voice, his smile--

Still I see him o'er and o'er,

Till I dare to gaze no more!

"Is it sin to love him yet?

Was it sin to love at all?

Is my torture, my regret,

For his loss--or for my fall?

Change, oh Heaven!--thou canst, thou wilt--

Thoughts that sink my soul in guilt!

"Teach me that regret is crime,

That my past despair is vain,

And my penance through all time

Shall be ne'er to hope again,--

Only in His pardon trust--

Pitying, merciful, and just."

It is said that La Reine Marguerite, sister of Francis I., wrote the

greatest part of her celebrated stories during a sojourn at the Eaux

Chaudes: there, surrounded with a brilliant court of ladies and poets,

she passed several joyous months, and recruited her health, while she

amused her imagination, in wandering amongst the rocks and wild paths of

Gabas and La Broussette: in her train were "_joueurs, farceurs,

baladins_, and _garnemens de province_," and nothing but entertainment

seemed the business of the lives of those fair and gay invalids, who, so

long ago, set an example which has not failed to be well followed since.

The pompous inscription which once appeared in a chapel at La Hourat, in

honour of the passage of the Princess Catherine, sister of Henri IV. is

now replaced by a modern exhortation to the traveller to implore the aid

of the Virgin before he tempts the perils of the pass: and our guides

very reverently took off their _berrets_, as they went by the little

niche, where stands the image, which is an object of their adoration and

hope. Poor Catherine, always disconsolate at her separation from the

object of her choice, found but little relief from the waters--they

could not minister to a mind diseased--and she had not the joyous,

careless mind of her predecessor and grandmother; nor are we told that

she attempted to compose amusing histories to distract her thought, nor

could exclaim--

"I write--sad task! that helps to wear away

The long, long, mournful melancholy day;

Write what the fervour of my soul inspires,

And vainly fan love's slow-consuming fires."

All was sad and solitary to her; for the only companion she desired was

not there to give her his hand along the rugged paths, to support her

amongst the glittering snows, and smooth her way through the pleasing

difficulties of the abrupt ascents. Cold ceremony, and, at best, mere

duty, attended her whose heart sighed for tenderness and affection which

she was never destined to know. At that period, there was neither hotel

nor street, and the rudest huts sheltered that simple court; but they

might perhaps afford, after all, as much comfort as may at the present

day be found, in cold weather, in the irreclaimably smoky rooms of the

principal inn at the Eaux Chaudes.

The accommodation is much superior--at least, _out_ of the season--at

the Eaux Bonnes, the situation of which is, as I before observed,

infinitely more cheerful; but in hot weather it must be like an oven,

closed in as the valley is with toppling mountains, which one seems

almost to touch. Rising up, and barring the way immediately at the top

of the valley in which the waters spring, is the isolated mountain

called _La butte du Trésor_, on the summit of which is erected a little

rustic temple, doubtless the favourite resort of adventurous invalids,

during their stay at the waters. I cannot imagine the sojourn agreeable

at that period to persons in health, who are led there only by

curiosity; for often, while balls and parties are going on in the

saloons below, some unfortunate victim of disease is being removed from

the sick chambers above to his last home. Nothing but insensibility to

human suffering can allow enjoyment to exist in such a spot, under such

circumstances. I rejoiced that, at the period of both my visits, we had

the scenery all to ourselves, with no drawback of melancholy to spoil

the satisfaction we experienced.

These waters were first used, it is said, by Henri II. of Navarre, after

his return from the fatal fight of Pavia, where he was wounded by a

musketshot. They, from hence, took the name of Eaux des Arquebusades, as

they were found efficacious in cases similar to his own.

Michel Montaigne was one of the illustrious visitors to these healing

springs, which he calls _Grammontoises_.

Jacques de Thou came to the Eaux Bonnes in 1582; and recounts that, in

the week which he passed there, he drank twenty-five glasses of water a

day; but in this he was exceeded by a German companion, who took no less

them _fifty_.

These springs were forgotten for more than a century after this; and

Barèges was preferred to them. The great physician, Bordeu, of whom

Béarn is justly proud, restored their reputation in a great measure: but

it is rather within the last thirty years that they have reached the

celebrity which they now enjoy.

It is generally said that the Vallée d'Ossau combines all the beauties

and grandeurs of the Pyrenees; and that the traveller, who has only time

to visit this part, has had a specimen of all that is most admirable in

this beautiful chain of mountains. For myself, I endeavour to believe

this, not having been able to see so much of the Pyrenees as I desired.

CHAPTER VIII.

PEASANTS OF OSSAU--CAPTIVITY OF FRANCIS THE FIRST--DEATH OF

JOYEUSE--DEATH OF THE DUKE DE MAINE--DANCES.

A great deal has been said and written about the peasants of the Vallée

d'Ossau; and most persons appear to have been guided rather by

enthusiasm than truth, exaggerating and embellishing facts as it suited

their views or their humour. It is the custom to admire the young girls

and children who pester travellers with shabby, faded little bouquets,

which they throw into the carriage-windows, and to see something

peculiar in the custom; but it does not strike me that there is the

slightest difference in this, or any other usage, between the Pyrenees

and all parts of France, through which I have passed. On the road from

Calais, as well as in the Vallée d'Ossau, ragged dirty groups, eager for

sous, place themselves in your way, and endeavour to obtain money: on

fête-days they may look better; but on ordinary occasions there is

certainly but little to admire, either in their dress or manners.

A lively but sarcastic French writer has observed on the proneness of

tourists to exalt the peasants of Ossau into the Arcadian beings of

Virgil and Theocritus, representing them as assembling together to sing

the verses of Despourrins: that--"it is, perhaps, better to see romance

than not to see at all; but those who have discovered these pastoral

heroes and heroines, can assuredly never have met with them on the Ger

or the Pic du Midi: the only songs that one can hear in that

neighbourhood are drawling, monotonous lines, without either rhyme or

reason,--a sort of ballad like that of the wandering Jew. As for their

occupations, they are commonly employed in knitting coarse woollen

stockings, or in preparing, in the dirtiest manner in the world, the

poorest and most insipid cheese that ever was made. The youths and

maidens are by no means Estelles and Nemourins. I am aware that this

account will be considered profane, and the writer of these facts, a

morose, disagreeable person; but the truth is, nevertheless, better than

false enthusiasm, which causes misrepresentation; and, having always

before our eyes so much that is glorious and sublime, it cannot be

necessary to inflate the imagination for ever _à propos de rien_.

"Let those who would form an idea of the singing of the Ossalois observe

them on a fête-day, in some of their villages, when the young people are

returning home. They separate in two bands: some holding each other by

the waist, some round the neck. The foremost party go about thirty steps

in silence, while those behind sing a couplet in chorus; the first then

stop, sing the second verse, and wait till those behind have joined

them; and the latter sing the third verse as they arrive at home. This

chant is called, in the country, _Passe-carrère_. Every now and then the

song is intermingled with sharp, wild cries, called _arénilhets_,

peculiar to the mountaineers; which prove the strength of their lungs,

if not their ear for melody. All this is performed slowly and heavily,

without any appearance of joyousness or gaiety, and seems singularly

ill-adapted to a fête."

It must be allowed that, whenever a good voice occurs in this part of

the country, it is an exception to the general rule; but this happened

not long since, in the case of a young and very handsome girl of Ossau,

whose melodious voice and fine execution attracted the notice of an

amateur, by whom she was introduced to the theatre at Berlin, and

obtained great applause and success. She may be considered as a

nightingale who had lost her way amongst a wood of screech-owls; for her

talent was quite alone. She used to sing an old historical romance of

the valley, composed on the captivity of Francis I., which has seldom

since found a voice capable of giving it effect.

There is something in this old ballad very like those of Spain, both in

character and rhythm; and there exist several others, on historical

subjects, which have the same kind of simple merit:

THE CAPTIVITY OF FRANCIS I.

"Quan lou Rey parti de France," &c.

When the king, from France departing,

Other lands to conquer sought,

'Twas at Pavia he was taken,

By the wily Spaniard caught.

"Yield thee, yield thee straight, King Francis,

Death or prison is your lot;"

"Wherefore call you me King Francis?

Such a monarch know I not."

Then the Spaniards raised his mantle,

And they saw the fleur-de-lys;--

They have chained him, and, full joyous,

Bore him to captivity.

In a tower, where sun nor moon-light

Came but by a window small;

There he lies, and as he gazes,

Sees a courier pass the wall.

"Courier! who art letters bringing,

Tell me what in France is said?"

"Ah! my news is sad and heavy--

For the king is ta'en, or dead."

"Back with speed, oh, courier, hasten--

Haste to Paris back with speed,

To my wife and little children;

Bid them help me at my need.

"Bid them coin new gold and silver,

All that Paris has to bring,

And send here a heap of treasure,

To redeem the captive king."[32]

[Footnote 32: The popularity of this ballad is accounted for by the

circumstance of the Prince of Béarn, Henry II. d'Albert, having been

made prisoner with Francis; he was, however, more fortunate than the

king, for he made his escape. The original runs thus:--

THE CAPTIVITY OF FRANCIS I.

Quan lou Rey parti de France,

Counqueri d'aütes pays,

A l'entrade de Pavi

Lous Espagnols bé l'an pris.

"Renté, renté, Rey de France,

Que si non, qu'en mourt ou pris,"

Quin seri lou Rey de France?

Que jamey you nou l'ey bist."

Queou lheban l'ale deoü mantoü

Troban l'y la flou de lys.

Quoü ne prenen et quoü liguen

Dens la prison que l'an mis.

Dehens üe tour escure,

Jamey sour ni lue s'y a bist;

Si nou per üe frinistote....

U poustillou bet beni.

"Poustillou qué lettres portis

Que si counte tà Paris?"

"La nouvelle que you porti

Lou Rey qu'ere mort ou pris."

"Tourne t'en poustillou en poste,

Tourne t'en entà Paris.

Arrecommandem à ma femme

Tabé mous infants petits.

"Que hassen batte la mounede,

La qui sie dens Paris,

Que men embien üe cargue

Por rachetam aü pays."

The chorus is usually at the end of each verse--"La lyron, la lyré," or

"doundoun, doundone."]

The following is also a favourite ballad on the battle of Coutras and

the death of Joyeuse, the magnificent favourite of Henry III., whose

contemptuous remark on his effeminacy was the cause of his exposing

himself in the _mêlée_. The episode of the fate of Joyeuse is an

affecting one in the life of the valiant and generous Henry of Navarre.

The treasure was immense that was taken from the gorgeous army destined

to overthrow the harassed Huguenots, but literally cut to pieces by the

stern and bold, though ragged warriors. The gold, silver, and jewels

that were brought to Henry's tent, after the victory, were heaped on the

floor, and the dead body of the beautiful and admired Duke de Joyeuse

was brought to him. Henry turned away, sick at heart, and commanded the

corpse to be covered with a cloak, and removed carefully; and desired

that all the spoil should be divided amongst the soldiers; holding it

beneath him to accept any: nor could he restrain his tears at the sight

of so much carnage of those whom he looked upon as his subjects.

THE DEATH OF JOYEUSE.

Between La Roche and Coutras

Was heard our battle cry;

And still we called--"To arms! to arms!"

Our voices rent the sky.

Our king was there with all his men,

And all his guards beside,

Within, the Duke de Joyeuse,

And to the king he cried:

"Oh, yield, King Henry, yield to me!"--

"What simple squire art thou,

To bid King Henry yield him,

And to thy bidding bow?"

"I an no simple squire,

But a knight of high degree;

I am the Duke de Joyeuse,

And thou must yield to me."

The king has placed his cannon

In lines against the wall,--

The first fire Joyeuse trembled,

The next saw Joyeuse fall.

Alas! his little children,

How sad will be their fate!--

A nurse both young and pretty,

Shall on them tend and wait:

And they shall be brave warriors,

When they come to man's estate.

The next ballad is in the same strain:

THE DEATH OF THE DUKE DE MAINE.

The noble Duke de Maine

Is dead or wounded sore;

Three damsels came to visit him,

And his hard hap deplore.

"Oh! say, fair prince, where is your wound?"

"'Tis in my heart," he said,

"'Twill not be many moments

Ere you will see me dead."

"Oh! call my page, and bid my squire;--

They ink and paper bring;--

For I must write a letter

To my cousin and my king."

And when the king the letter read,

Tears from his eyelids fell;

"Oh! who shall lead my armies now.

Who shall command so well!"

"Oh! who shall guide my valiant bands

To conquest in the fight!--

The Duke de Vendôme[33] must succeed,--

He is a gallant knight."

[Footnote 33: Antoine de Bourbon.]

* * * * *

It is seldom now that the tamborine or pipe, celebrated by Despourrins,

is heard as an accompaniment to the dances of the peasants. A violin is

the usual music; and the antique and pastoral character is at once

destroyed.

Sometimes it is possible to see a real mountain-dance, which is

certainly picturesque, if not graceful, and belongs peculiarly to the

spot, and the objects which inspired it; as, for instance, _"The Dance

of the Wild Goat," "The Dance of the Izard," "La Gibaudrie," "La Ronde

du Grand Pic."_

The young men are very agile in these exercises; but, in general, the

woman's part is very inferior: they, indeed, seldom dance together, and

usually are only spectators. This seems to indicate an Eastern origin.

There is one exception to this rule in a _ronde_, executed by both

sexes, hand-in-hand; but in this the men leap and cut, while the women

move their feet slowly and heavily: in fact, they look half asleep,

while the young men seem much more occupied with their own feats of

agility than with their partners.

As I have not seen any of these dances, nor the peasants in their

holiday costumes, I have some difficulty in imagining that there is

either beauty or grace amongst them. At the Eaux Bonnes, our female

attendant wore her red-peaked _capeline_ in the house, which had a

singular effect, but was by no means pretty: indeed, the only impression

it gives me is, that it is precisely the costume which seems to suit _a

daunce o' witches_; and cannot by possibility be softened into anything

in the least pleasing to the eye. All the peasants I saw at different

periods of the year had a remarkably slovenly, dirty, squalid

appearance; and, except in the instance of one little girl of about

thirteen, I saw none who had the slightest claim to beauty, or could

excite interest for a moment. There is a humble, civil air about the

people in the Vallée d'Ossau, which propitiates one: the _berret_ is

always taken off as a stranger passes, and a kind salutation uniformly

given. But, beyond this, there is nothing worthy of remark as respects

the common people, who appear to be a simple race, content to work hard

and live poorly.

Our guide pointed out to us a village, from the valley, perched up on a

height in the midst of snows, where, he said, the inhabitants, who were

all shepherds, _were very learned_. "Not one of them," said he, "but can

read and write; and, as they are always in the mountains with a book in

their hands, and have nothing to interrupt their studies, they know a

great deal, and are brave _gens_." Probably Gaston Saccaze the naturalist

belongs to such a fraternity.

CHAPTER IX.

COARRAZE--ORTON--THE PONT LONG--LES BELLES

CANTINIÈRES--MORLAAS--THE CURÉ--RESISTANCE TO

IMPROVEMENT--UZAIN--LESCAR--REFORMATION IN NAVARRE--TOMBS--FRANÇOIS

PHOEBUS--THE MOTHER.

"A très lègues de Pau, a cap à las mountagnes

Aprés abé seguit gayhaventes[34] campagnes,

Sus û Pic oûn lou Gabe en gourgouils ba mouri

Lou Castel de Coarraze aüs oueils qu'es bien ouffri."

WITHIN a pleasant drive of Pau is the Castle of Coarraze, where the

youth of Henry IV. was passed, under the guardianship of Suzanne de

Bourbon-Busset, Barronne de Miossens. Of this castle nothing now remains

but one tower, on which may still be traced the motto, "_Lo que ha de

ser non puede faltar_," from whence is a magnificent view _into_ the

mountains.

Of the Castle of Coarraze, it will be seen that more marvellous things

are told than that Henri Quatre passed much of his childhood there.

[Footnote 34: Smiling.]

Froissart has immortalized it as the scene of one of his romances of

Orthez; and this is the tale he tells of its lord:

It seems, Count Gaston Phoebus had such early knowledge of every event,

that his household could only account for the fact by supposing that he

possessed some familiar spirit, who told him all that had happened in

the country, far and near. This was considered by no means unusual; and

when Sir John Froissart expressed his surprise on the subject, a squire

belonging to the count related to him a circumstance of a similar

nature.

"It may be about twenty years ago," said he, "that there reigned, in

this country, a baron, who was called Raymond, and who was Lord of

Coarraze. Now, Coarraze is a town and castle, about seven leagues from

this town of Orthez. The Lord of Coarraze had, at the time of which I

speak, a suit before the Pope, at Avignon, respecting the tithes of the

church, which were claimed by a certain clerk of Catalonia, who insisted

on his right to a revenue from them of a hundred florins a-year.

Sentence was given by Pope Urban the Fifth, in a general consistory,

against the knight, and in favour of the Churchman; in consequence of

which, the latter hastened, with all speed, back to Béarn with his

letters and the Pope's bull, by virtue of which he was to enter into

possession of the tithes.

"The Lord of Coarraze was much incensed at this; and, in great

indignation, went to the clerk, and said, 'Master Peter,' or 'Master

Martin,'--it matters not for his name--'do you suppose that I shall be

content to lose my inheritance for the sake of those letters of yours? I

do not believe you to be so bold as to lay your hands on a thing which

belongs to me; for, if you do, it is as much as your life is worth. Go

elsewhere, and get what you can; as for my inheritance, you shall have

none of it, and I tell you so once for all.'

"The clerk stood much in awe of the knight at these words, for he knew

him to be a determined man, and dared not persevere in his demand; he

found it safe to retire to Avignon, or, at all events, out of the

count's reach; but, before he departed, he said to him, 'Sire, by force,

and not by right, you have taken and kept from me the dues of my church,

which in conscience is a great wrong. I am not so strong in this country

as you are; but I would have you know, and that soon, that I have a

champion, whom you will have cause to fear more than you do me.' The

Lord of Coarraze, who cared nothing for his menaces, replied: 'Go, in

Heaven's name, and do your worst. I value you as little dead as living;

and, for all your words, you shall not get my property.'

"Thus they parted: the clerk either to Avignon, or into Catalonia; but

he did not forget what he had said to the knight, for soon after there

came to his castle of Coarraze, and into the very chamber where he and

his lady slept, invisible messengers, who began to riot and overturn

everything they found in the castle; so that it seemed as if they would

destroy all they came near; so loud were the strokes which they struck

against the doors of the bed-rooms, that the lady shook as she lay, and

was greatly terrified. The knight heard all; but he took no sort of

notice, for he would not seem to be moved by this event, and was bold

enough to wait for stranger adventures.

"The noise and uproar continued for a long space in different chambers

of the castle, and then ceased. The domestics and squires represented

what had happened to their master; but he feigned to have heard nothing,

and to believe that they had been dreaming: but his lady one day assured

him that she had heard the noise but too clearly.

"That same night, as he was sleeping in his bed, came the uproar again

as before, and shook the windows and doors in a wonderful manner. The

knight then could not but rouse himself; and, sitting up, cried out,

'Who knocks so loud at my chamber at such an hour?'

"'It is I--it is I!' was the answer.

"'And who sends you?'

"'The clerk of Catalonia, whom you have wronged out of his property; and

I will never leave you in peace till you have reckoned with him for it,

and he is content.'

"'And what is your name, who are so good a messenger?'

"'I am called Orton.'

"'Orton,' said the knight, 'the service of a clerk is beneath you; you

will find it more trouble than profit; leave it, and serve me--you will

be glad of the exchange.'

"Now, Orton had _taken a fancy_ to the Lord of Coarraze; and, after a

pause, he said,

"'Are you in earnest?'

"'Certainly,' replied the knight; 'let us understand each other. You

must do evil to no one, and we shall be very good friends.'

"'No, no,' said Orton, 'I have no power to do evil to you or others,

except to disturb them when they might sleep.'

"'Well, then, we are agreed,' said the knight; 'in future, you serve me,

and quit that wretched clerk.'

"'Be it as you will,' said Orton, 'so will I.'

"From this time, the spirit attached himself with such affection to the

lord, that he constantly visited him at night; and when he found him

asleep he made a noise at his ear, or at the doors and windows; and the

knight used to wake and cry out, 'Orton, let me alone, I entreat!'

"'No, I will not,' was the reply, 'till I have told you some news.'

"Meantime, the lady used to lie frightened to death--her hair on end,

and her head covered with the bed-clothes. Her husband would say:

"'Well, what news have you?--from what country do you come?'

"The spirit would answer:

"'Why, from England, or Germany, or Hungary, or other countries. I set

out yesterday, and such and such things happened.'

"In this manner was the count informed of all that occurred in every

part of the globe for five or six years: and he could not conceal the

truth, but imparted it to the Count of Foix, when he came to visit him.

The count was greatly surprised at what he told, and expressed a wish

that he possessed such a courier.

"'Have you never seen him?' said he.

"'Never,' answered the knight.

"'I would certainly do so,' said the Count de Foix; 'you tell me he

speaks Gascon as well as you or I. Pray see him, and tell me what form

he bears.'

"'I have never sought to do so,' said the knight; 'but, since you wish

it, I will make a point of desiring him to reveal himself.'

"The next time Orton brought his news, his master told him he desired to

behold him; and, after a little persuasion, he agreed that he should be

gratified. 'The first thing you see to-morrow morning,' said he, 'when

you rise from your bed, will be me.'

"The morning came, and when the knight was getting up, the lady was so

afraid of seeing Orton that she pretended to be sick, and would not

rise. The knight, however, was resolved, and leapt up with the hope of

seeing him in a proper form, but nothing appeared. He ran to the

windows, and opened the shutters to let the light in, but still there

was no appearance in his room.

"At night Orton came, and told him he had appeared in the form of two

straws, which, he might have observed, whirled about on the floor.

"The knight was much displeased, and insisted on not being thus played

with: 'when I have seen you once,' said he, 'I desire no more.'

"''Tis well,' replied Orton. 'Remark, then, the first object which meets

your eye when you leave your chamber, that will be me.'

"The next day the Lord of Coarraze got up, as usual; and when he was

ready, he went out of his room into a gallery, which overlooked a court

of his castle. The first thing which attracted his notice was a large

sow, the most enormous creature he had ever beheld in his life; but she

was so thin, that she seemed nothing but skin and bone, and she looked

miserable and starved, with a long snout and emaciated limbs.

"The lord was amazed and annoyed at seeing this animal in his

court-yard, and cried out to his people to drive it away, and set the

hounds upon it. This was accordingly done, without delay; when the sow

uttered a loud cry, turned a piteous look upon the knight, and

disappeared: nor could any one find her again.

"The Lord of Coarraze returned to his chamber in a pensive mood; and was

now convinced, too late, that he had seen his messenger--who never

afterwards returned to him: and the very next year he died in his

castle."

Beginning almost from the entrance to Pau, extends an immense district

of uncultivated land, called the Pont Long. This _lande_ is covered with

coarse fern and heath, and is intersected with wide marshes; thirty-two

communes have a right in this ground; but it chiefly belongs to the

Vallée d'Ossau. It was formerly much more extensive than it now is; but,

even yet, a very inconsiderable portion has been reclaimed: its extent

is about twelve leagues in length, and one and a half in width.

In the centre of this wild country is the ancient town of Morlàas, whose

name, tradition says, was derived from the circumstance of a

prince--Gaston Centulle--having been there assassinated; from whence it

was called _Mort-là_, a derivation, probably, as likely as any other

that can be found.

We chose a very bright, warm, and beautiful day--during the continuance

of fine weather, in November--to drive to Morlàas. Our carriage was

stopped, just as we got out of the town, by a regiment of soldiers who

were marching out, and, but for the courtesy of the colonel, we should

have been impeded for nearly a league: he, however, kindly ordered the

ranks to open, and we were allowed to go on between the two lines. This

regiment--the 25th of the line--is a remarkably fine one, and appears to

be kept in constant activity by its commanders, going out to great

distances to exercise in every weather. It is attended by a pretty troop

of young women, whose appearance reminded me of Catherine's _petite

bande_, so attractive did it seem. I do not know whether this is a

common thing, but I never saw such a troop before in company with a

regiment. They wear a costume, half feminine half military; have short

dresses of grey cloth--the colour of the men's great coats--sitting

close to their shape, very full in the skirt, and with cuffs turned up

with red facings, red trowsers, and military boots, a white plaited ruff

and habit-shirt, a white--neatly frilled and plaited--cap, surmounted

with a small, smart glazed hat, round which is the word _Cantinière_:

across their shoulder is slung a canteen, and in this equipment they

step along with a military air, and in a dashing style which would be

invaluable on the stage. I never saw anything more singular and pretty,

and to me so new: almost every one of the women was young and very

good-looking, extremely well made, and active and strong; as, indeed,

they require to be, for they accompany the soldiers on all their

expeditions, and remain out all day. It is something as amusing to

behold as the troop of _savans and asses_, taken care of by Napoleon in

his Egyptian campaign.

The road to Morlàas is rather monotonous, and that part which crosses

the marsh very bleak and desolate: with the gigantic mountains bounding

the horizon, it seems as if the marsh-fiend might here well establish

his abode; and the salubrity of the air of the neighbourhood I should

somewhat doubt. After a considerable distance, the road quits the

_Lande_, and mounts a hill, along and from the summit of which is a very

agreeable view, which improves at every step. From this point the Lande

below appears cultivated, and vines and fields are seen in all

directions. You descend the hill, and Morlàas is in sight: that town was

once regal, and of old renown, but is now in the very perfection of ruin

and desolation.

It was the great market, and our driver was so delighted at the

circumstance, that it was with the utmost difficulty we could prevent

him from taking us to a plain outside the town, where the horse-fair was

going on, as he assured us that there we should see all the _monde_. As

we were quite aware of the style of gentry assembled, by the quantity of

blue frocks and berrets which we saw from a distance, and by the

neighing of steeds which reached our ears, we declined joining the

commercial party, and contented ourselves with being jostled and crowded

by the assemblage in the streets of Morlàas, whose avenues were blocked

up with market-folks, not only from every village and commune round, but

from Pau, and Orthez, and Peyrehourade, and Lescar.

We stopped at the once magnificent church of Sainte Foix, before a

little low porch, where we had to endure much persecution from beggars,

_en attendant_ the arrival of the curé who was to show us the interior.

We were amused at one of these people, who continued his whining cry of

"Charita madama, per l'amor de Déieux!"--half French, half _patois_; till

our driver asking him to point out the curé's abode, he answered

briskly, in a lively tone; and, having given the required information,

resumed the accustomed drawl.

The curé seemed very cross, and little propitiated by our apologies for

having disturbed him: he looked sleepy and flushed, and had evidently

been enjoying a nap, after a hearty meal and a bottle of Jurançon. He

hurried us through the ruined church, from which almost every vestige of

its early character has disappeared. On a pillar are still seen some

Gothic letters, which may be thus read: "In the year of God 1301, this

pillar and this altar were made by Téaza, whom God pardon! in honour of

God, St. Orens, and Sainte Foi." A picture of the sixteenth century

adorns the choir. It represents the Judgment of our Lord; each of the

judges is in the costume of the period; and his opinion is expressed by

a label attached to his person.

One little chapel alone remains of all that must have adorned this

church: the sculpture of this is very beautiful, and the grimacing heads

introduced amongst the foliage sufficiently grotesque. There is a very

large antique baptismal font, and near it is a mutilated statue of the

Virgin sustaining the Saviour on her knees, which the curé insisted upon

was Nicodemus. His scriptural knowledge seemed about equal to his

historical; but he evidently had no mean opinion of his own

acquirements, which, he almost told us, were of too high a character to

be wasted on mere travellers and foreigners, who knew nothing about

Notre Dame or the saints. He would not let us see the belfry-tower,

which he assured us was unsafe, and was displeased at our stopping him

to remark on the extreme antiquity of two of the huge pillars which

support the roof, and which, though much daubed with whitewash, have not

lost all their fine _contours_. Having got rid of us, the curé hurried

back to his siesta, and we strolled round the church. Beautiful circular

arches, with zigzag mouldings, almost perfect, adorned several towers,

and showed how admirable must once have been the form of the building.

We found ourselves carried away by the crowd into the street again, and

were obliged to pause and take breath by the side of the clear rivulet,

which, as in most of the towns here, runs swiftly through the streets,

rendering them much cleaner than they would otherwise be. Here we were

accosted, from an open window, by a female who had been watching our

proceedings, from the time of our driving into the town, and who seemed

quite distressed to see three ladies alone, without a cavalier.

"However," she said, "three of you are company, to be sure, and can take

care of each other." She was very eloquent on the subject of Morlàas,

and had no idea but that we had purposely chosen the market-day for our

visit, in order to be _gay_.

We made our way, with some difficulty--through the throng of persons

which filled the market-place, and who were busy buying and selling

coarse stuffs and mérinos, coloured handkerchiefs, and woollen goods--to

the principal façade of the church, against which the ruinous old

_halle_ is built; and there we contrived to get a sight of the remains

of one of the most splendid portals I ever beheld. Of gigantic

proportions, circle within circle, each elaborately carved, with

figures, foliage, and intersecting lines, the magnificent door-way of

the church of Sainte Foi presents a treasure to antiquarians: equal in

riches to, but more delicate, and larger and loftier, than that of

Malmsbury Abbey, in Wiltshire, it has features in common with that fine

structure; but I never saw so wide a span as the arch, or more exquisite

ornaments.

It appears that the town of Morlàas, which, ruined as it is, is said to

be _rich_ (!) is about to restore this fine entrance. A new town-hall

and market-place are being built, and, when completed, the miserable

huts which disfigure the church will be cleared away, and the façade

allowed to appear. Above this door is a fine steeple, crested with

figures, which we could scarcely distinguish, but which we found were

the _Cows of Béarn_ clustered round the summit.

When Morlàas was the residence of the Viscounts of Béarn, it possessed a

sovereign court, and a mint of great celebrity, where copper, silver,

and even _gold_ coins were struck. Money seems to have been coined at

Morlàas in the time of the Romans; its pieces were much coveted in the

country for their purity, and were considered far superior to any other

in Gascony. There was a _livre Morlane_ as there was a _livre Tournois_,

and it long preserved its celebrity. It was worth triple _the livre

Tournois_, and was subdivided into _sols_, _ardits_, and _baquettes_, or

_vaquettes_, _i.e. little cows_. A very few of those remarkable coins

are still preserved; some exist, in private museums, of the time of the

early Centulles and Gastons, of François Phoebus, of Catherine

d'Albret, Henry II., Henry IV., and Queen Jeanne. The device they bear

is--_"Grâtia Dei sum id quod sum."_

Some Moorish coins, with Arabic inscriptions, have been found in this

neighbourhood, which are also preserved in the cabinets of the curious.

The Hôtel or Palace of the Viscounts was formerly called the Hourquie,

or Forquie: from whence the money was called _moneta Furcensis_: the

town itself was occasionally called Furcas. The _patois_ name by which

it is known is Morlans. No vestige is left of this magnificent palace;

and Morlàas presents, altogether, a most wretched aspect, being

literally a heap of stones and ruin. Its situation offers no inducement

to its restoration; for, being placed in the midst of marshes, it has no

beauty of country which should make it a desirable residence. From time

immemorial, prejudice and custom have prevented any attempt being made

to cultivate these dismal swamps; or if a few energetic persons have

tried to ameliorate their condition, and have taken possession of parts

of the waste with such a view, at once the Ossalois have descended from

their mountains, with sticks and staves, and driven the invaders from

their ground. Even at the present day, as the right remains to the

people of Ossau, they have the power, which they are sure to enforce, of

preventing any incursions on the _landes_ along the valley of Pau; and,

if they please, they can pasture their sheep by the banks of the Gave,

and pen them in the lower town, beneath the castle, asking "no bold

baron's leave." There is no fear, now, of these fierce mountaineers

"sweeping like a torrent down upon the vales," as in the days when

Lescar, Morlàas, and Pau, were obliged to shut their gates in terror,

when they saw their advance.

It is related, that, in 1337, a lord of Serres erected a castle in the

midst of the Pont Long, and in a short time nearly two hundred houses

were nestling under the protection of his turrets. All was going on

well; the ground began to be drained and cultivated, and everything

promised a happy result to the undertaking; but a storm of wrath rose in

the mountains, the haughty owners of a useless marsh, unwilling that it

should serve a good purpose to others, though of no importance to

themselves, roused their followers, and, to the number of several

hundreds, rushed from their snowy retreats, and, in one night, ravaged

and destroyed all they met with. The new settlers fled in consternation,

while the Ossalois burnt and threw down their dwellings, leaving a heap

of ruins, which may still be traced in the midst of the Pont Long. They

took refuge at some distance, where their dangerous neighbours had no

right, and built themselves a village, which is that of Serres-Castel at

the present time.

At one period Henry II., the grandfather of Henry IV., was desirous of

forming a park for deer, and, taking possession of a track of ground, he

surrounded it with walls. The Ossalois consulted together, and

discovered that this ground was one of the dependencies on the Pont

Long. Without condescending to remonstrance they assembled in bands, and

marching down with flags flying, demolished the enclosures and took back

their possession.

In the same year, 1543, the sovereign of Béarn was obliged to solicit of

these tyrants of the valley permission for his cousin, the Dame

d'Artiguelouve, to send her cattle to feed in the Pont Long, to which

they consented "_for a consideration_"--_i.e._ by being paid the

_baccade_, such as is demanded of the shepherds.

The Princess Magdelaine, governess of Prince François Phoebus, in 1472,

obtained, _as a favour_, the permission for her physician, Thomas

Geronne, to introduce _seven mares_ to feed in the marsh. A letter of

the princess entreats, also, at another period, the same grace for the

cattle of her treasurer-general.

For more than eight centuries the possession of this _precious_ marsh

has been the subject of litigation, and it has remained in its barren

state.

The Vallée d'Ossau has had to defend its rights sometimes against the

viscounts of Béarn, sometimes against the monks of Cluny, and the

_Poublans_ of Pau. Law or combats have been always necessary to enable

them to retain their rights. It was on occasion of a decision in their

favour by Gaston IV., that the Ossalois made a gift to that prince of

the sum of two thousand four hundred florins, to aid him in finishing

the castle of Pau, which was then in the course of erection.

This Pont Long, which has so long been an apple of discord to Béarn, is

at the present hour likely to have settled bounds; for, in 1837, the

members of the Cour-Royal of Pau occupied themselves on the subject, and

a chance exists of something useful being done with the ground: there is

a project for encouraging mulberry-trees and silk-worms there, and of

making a canal to carry off its waters, and render it fit for

cultivation. This is the more necessary, as fever and ague are

sufficiently common in its neighbourhood. But, even within a very few

years, when an enlightened agriculturist, M. Laclède, endeavoured to

clear the ground, and plant and improve, the fury of opposition he

experienced was disgracefully extraordinary. Under the pretext that

their pastures were invaded, the people came with fire and hatchet, and

burnt his trees, and cut away his bridges and aqueducts.

A spot is shown in the Pont Long, called Henri Quatre's marsh; for it is

said that this prince being one day out shooting snipes, got so

entangled in the mud that it was with the greatest difficulty he was

rescued from his unpleasant predicament.

There is an oasis in this desert, the village of Uzein, which is a

standing proof of the possibility of effecting all that industry can

desire in this condemned place: the people of this flourishing village

owe their success to the determined perseverance of their curate, who

exhorted and persuaded his parishioners to bring manure for their fields

from Serres, and, at the end of a few years, all was brilliant and

smiling, and Uzein is considered to produce the best maize in Béarn.

There are a few towers still standing, where castles have been erected

on the Pont Long; an old grey tower of Navailles, and one of Montaner,

so strong as to have proved indestructible: it was built by Gaston

Phoebus, at the same time as that of Pau, and what remains of the walls

of its donjon are upwards of ten feet thick!

Lescar was once an important town of Béarn, and in its fine cathedral

princes were buried, whose ashes even rest there no longer, and whose

tombs have long since been destroyed. Most of its magnificence

disappeared at the period when Queen Jeanne declared her adherence to

the new doctrine, and gave her sanction to the enemies of Catholic

superstition to pull down the _Pagan images_. Angry and fierce was the

discussion which took place between the Queen and the Cardinal

d'Armagnac, her former friend, on the occasion of the attack on the

cathedral of Lescar: the following extracts from their letters, given

by Mr. Jameson in his work on "the Reformation in Navarre," are

characteristic on both sides.

The cardinal's courier, it seems, waited while Jeanne, without pause or

hesitation, wrote her reply to his representation. His letter ran thus:

"Madam,--The duty of the service in which I was born, and which I have

continued faithfully to fulfil, both to the late sovereigns, your father

and mother, as well as to the late king your husband, has so complete an

influence on my conduct, that I must ever be attentive to the means of

sustaining your welfare, and the glory of your illustrious house. Moved

by the zeal which attaches me to your interests, I will never conceal

from you whatever it is desirable that you should learn, and which I may

have previously heard, trusting that you will receive in good part the

representations of your long-tried, most attached, and faithful servant,

who will never offer to make them for his own private advantage, but

solely for the sake of your conscience, and the prosperity of your

affairs. I cannot, then, Madam, conceal from you the deep affliction

which penetrates me on account of the information I have received of the

overthrow of images and altars, and the pillage of ornaments, silver,

and jewels, committed in the cathedral of Lescar, by the agents of your

authority, as well as the severity of those agents to the chapter and

people, by the interdiction of divine service. This proceeding appears

to me to be the more monstrous, since it took place in your presence,

and resulted from evil counsels which must lead to your ruin. It is in

vain for you to conceive that you can transplant the new religion into

your dominions at your pleasure. The wishes of the ministers who have

assured you of this are at variance with those of your subjects. They

will never consent to quit their religion, as they have declared by

their protest at the last meeting of the estates of Béarn. * * * And,

even supposing that they were reduced to accept your faith, consider

what you would have to fear from the two sovereigns whose territories

surround you, and who abhor nothing so much as the new opinions with

which you are so delighted. Their policy would lead them to seize your

dominions, rather than suffer them to be the prey of strangers. To

shelter you from these dangers, you have not, like England, the ocean

for a rampart. Your conduct perils the fortunes of your children, and

risks the beholding them deprived of a throne. * * * You will thus

become worse than an infidel, by neglecting to provide for those of your

own house. Such is the fruit of your Evangelism. * * * Has not God, who

worked so many miracles through them, (_i.e._ the saints,) manifestly

directed us to regard those holy personages rather than Luther, Calvin,

Farel, Videl, and so many other presumptuous men, who would desire us

to slight those reverend names, and adopt their novelties? Would they

have us hold an open council to hear them, or unite in one common

opinion against the Catholic Church? * * * Without wasting time in

further reflections, let me entreat you to place in their former

condition the churches of Lescar, of Pau, and other places, which have

been so deplorably desolated by you. This advice is preferable to that

given you by your ministers, which it imports you to abandon, &c.

&c.--Your loyal and very obedient servant,

"THE CARDINAL D'ARMAGNAC.

"_Vielleperite_, _Aug_. 18_th_, 1563."

* * * * *

To this Queen Jeanne replied in the following terms:--

"My Cousin,--From my earliest years I have been acquainted with the zeal

which attached you to the service of my kindred. I am not authorized by

ignorance of that zeal to refuse it the praise and esteem it merits, or

to be prevented from feeling a gratitude which I should be desirous of

continuing towards those who, like you, having partaken of the favour of

my family, have preserved good-will and fidelity towards it. I should

trust you would still entertain those feelings towards me, as you

profess to do, without allowing them to be changed or destroyed by the

influence of I know not what religion, or superstition. Thanking you, at

the same time, for the advice you give me, and which I receive according

to its varied character, the dissimilar and mingled points it touches

being divided between heaven and earth, God and man! As to the first

point, concerning the reform which I have effected at Pau, and at

Lescar, and which I desire to extend throughout my sovereignty, I have

learnt it from the Bible, which I read more willingly than the works of

your doctors. * * * As to the ruin impending over me through bad

counsel, under the colour of religion, I am not so devoid of the gifts

of God or of the aid of friends, as to be unable to make choice of

persons worthy of my confidence, and capable of acting, not under a vain

pretence, but with the true spirit of religion. * * * I clearly perceive

that you have been misinformed, both respecting the answer of my estates

and the disposition of my subjects. The two estates have professed their

obedience to religion. * * * I know who my neighbours are; the one hates

my religion as much as I do his, but that does not affect our mutual

relations: and besides, I am not so destitute of advice and friends as

to have neglected all necessary precautions for the defence of my rights

in case of attack. * * * Although you think to intimidate me, I am

protected from all apprehension; first, by my confidence in God whom I

serve, and who knows how to defend his cause. Secondly, because my

tranquillity is not affected by the designs of those whom I can easily

oppose, * * * with the grace of Him who encompasses my country as the

ocean does England. I do not perceive that I run the risk of sacrificing

either my own welfare or that of my son; on the contrary, I trust to

strengthen it in the only way a Christian should pursue; and even though

the spirit of God might not inspire me with a knowledge of this way, yet

human intellect would induce me to act as I do, from the many examples

which I recall with regret, especially that of the late king, my

husband, of whose history you well know the beginning, the course, and

the end. Where are the splendid crowns you held out to him? Did he gain

any by combating against true religion and his conscience? * * * I blush

with shame when you talk of the many atrocities which you allege to have

been committed by those of our faith; cast out the beam out of thine own

eye, and then shalt thou see clearly to cast out the moat in thy

brother's eye: purify the earth that is stained with the innocent blood

which those of your party have shed, a fact you can bear testimony to.

* * * You are ignorant of what our ministers are, who teach patience,

obedience to sovereigns, and the other virtues of which the apostles and

the martyrs have left them an example. * * * You affirm that multitudes

draw back from our belief, while I maintain that the number of its

adherents increases daily. As to ancient authorities, I hear them every

day cited by our ministers. I am not indeed sufficiently learned to have

gone through so many works, but neither, I suspect, have you, or are

better versed in them than myself, as you were always known to be more

acquainted with matters of state than those of the church. * * * I place

no reliance on doctors, not even Calvin, Beza, and others, but as they

follow Scripture. You would send them to a council. They desire it,

provided that it shall be a free one, and that the parties shall not be

judges. The motive of the surety they require is founded on the examples

of John Huss and Jerome of Prague. Nothing afflicts me more than that

you, after having received the truth, should have abandoned it for

idolatry, because you then found the advancement of your fortune and

worldly honours. * * * Read again the passages of Scripture you quote,

before you explain them so unhappily on any other occasion: it might be

pardonable in me, a female, but you, a cardinal, to be so old and so

ignorant! truly, my cousin, I feel shame for you. * * * If you have no

better reasons for combating my undertaking, do not again urge me to

follow your worldly prudence. I consider it mere folly before God; it

cannot impede my endeavours. _Your_ doubts make me tremble, _my_

assurance makes me firm. When you desire again to persuade me that the

words of your mouth are the voice of your conscience and your

faithfulness, be more careful; and let the fruitless letter you have

sent me be the last of that kind I shall receive. * * * Receive this

from one who knows not how to style herself: not being able to call

herself a friend, and doubtful of any affinity till the time of

repentance and conversion, when she will be

"Your cousin and friend,

"JEANNE."

* * * * *

We drove to Lescar, which is within a short distance of Pau, anxious to

discover some remains of its former grandeur; but, like almost all the

towns in this part of France, the glory is indeed departed from it. The

situation is remarkably fine; it stands on a high _côteau_, by the side

of the road to Bayonne, and from the terrace of the cathedral a

magnificent view of the snowy mountains spreads along the horizon.

Nothing but dilapidated, ugly stone houses, and slovenly yards, are now

to be seen in the town; though it is said the people are by no means

poor, as, indeed, the rich gardens and vineyards around testify.

There is not a tomb or monument of any kind left in the cathedral; but

it is entirely paved with inscribed stones, few of them earlier than

the beginning of the seventeenth century. The church itself has been so

much altered as to be scarcely the same; it is still of great extent,

and is imposing as to size: a few strange old pillars, with grotesque

capitals, remain of its earliest date; but, from these specimens, it is

plain that there could never have been much architectural grace

displayed in its construction. The organ was playing as we walked

through the aisles, and is a very fine one: we could not but regret

that, at Pau, there should not be a single church where we could have

the advantage of hearing similar music; and that the chief town of Béarn

should be denuded of every attraction common to even the most neglected

French town. No thanks, however, are due to the arms of Montgomery, that

one stone remained on another of the cathedral of Lescar; and that all

in Pau should have been destroyed in his time, is not surprising. When

one thinks on the former magnificence of this town and cathedral, and

the pomp and circumstance of all the royal funerals which took place

here; of all the gorgeous tombs and splendid ceremonies; and, looking

round, beholds only ruined towns and crumbling walls, the contrast is

striking to the mind.

In the ninth century, this part of the country was covered with a thick

forest, called Lascurris. The Duke of Gascony, (Guillaume Sance,) about

980, having excited a knight to murder one of his enemies, was seized

with qualms of conscience, and, to relieve his mind, rebuilt the church,

which was _then_ fallen to decay, and founded a monastery in the

solitude, which he dedicated to Notre Dame. The assassin, sharing his

remorse, became a monk, and afterwards abbot there, and is known as

Lopoforti.

The future abbots seem to have been men of valour; for they armed

themselves, when occasion called, against the followers of Mahound, who

ventured from the passes of Spain into their territories.

The bishops of Lescar had the jurisdiction of 178 parishes, and the

diocese comprised two abbeys: it is contended that this was the most

ancient bishopric of Béarn; and the town the capital of the country in

former days. In the seventeenth century it was certainly a place of

importance, and was well defended by walls, gates, and fosses, of which

a few picturesque ruins alone remain.

In the choir of the cathedral there are still the sculptured stalls of

oak, executed in the time of Louis XIII., which are bold and graceful,

and in excellent preservation; some mosaic pavement has lately been

discovered, which was laid down by Bishop Guy in very early times; and

it is to be expected more discoveries could be made if more zeal were

roused in the cause. The chapels are richly adorned, and in better taste

than usual, and the church is, on the whole, extremely well kept: the

vault-like chill one feels, however, on entering does not say much for

its salubrity.

The most important tombs which once adorned this sanctuary, were those

of the young Prince of Béarn and King of Navarre, (François Phoebus,)

who died in 1483. Jean II. d'Albret in 1516, and his wife, Catherine de

Foix. Marguérite de Valois--the Fleur des Marguérites,--in 1548; and

Henry II., her husband--the _immortal grandfather_ of the great

Béarnois. It has been said that the body of their daughter, Jeanne

d'Albret, was brought here; but this appears to be incorrect, as her

tomb is at Vendôme.

The death of young François Phoebus is one of the most melancholy

episodes in the history of the country. It is thus recounted:

He was under the guardianship of his mother, Magdelaine of France,

Countess of Foix, a woman of superior mind and qualities, who devoted

herself to his interests and those of his kingdom, and spared no pains

to foster the noble dispositions which were in her son.

The time _was out of joint_, in consequence of civil dissensions, and

the unjust claims on Navarre of the King of Arragon; and her position

was very critical; but her wisdom and prudence had greatly calmed the

turbulence of those with whom she had to deal, and her subjects looked

forward with hope and delight to the majority of her son, who was as

amiable as he was transcendently beautiful, and whom, in imitation of

the title of their hero, Gaston, they had surnamed Phoebus. Magdelaine

was aided in her good intentions by her brother-in-law, the Cardinal de

Foix, whose sage advice greatly relieved and guided her, and when she

saw her beloved son, then aged fifteen, enter his territories in

triumph, apparently received with friendly interest by all contending

parties, her heart became joyous, and the future seemed all hope and

pleasure to her.

Several marriages were proposed for him; but she was desirous that as

much delay as possible should take place before that important step

should be decided. Numerous powerful princes came forward, offering

their alliances. Amongst others, Don Ferdinand, of Castile, named his

second daughter, Doña Juana, who afterwards inherited all his

possessions; but the Countess of Foix rejected this, as it would have

given umbrage to Louis XI. of France, whose friendship it was necessary

to secure; and whose wily mind was working at his own interest, which

prompted him to desire that a young nun of Coimbra should be drawn from

her sacred retreat, and made the bride of the young king: this was

another Doña Juana, for whose claim to the kingdom of Castile the artful

monarch of France chose to contend. Louis, therefore, wishing to avoid

the vicinity of Spain for his young _protégé_, persuaded his mother to

withdraw him from Pampeluna to his castle at Pau, where he went on with

his studies, and, by his amiable and conciliating disposition, won the

affection of all his subjects, by whom he was quite adored, as well as

by his mother, and his sister, the Princess Catherine, to whom he was

tenderly attached.

One morning, as they were all three together engaged in their different

occupations, a flute was brought to the young prince, who, after a time,

took it up with the intention of practising some music; for in this

accomplishment he excelled. He had been playing but a short time when

his sister observed him turn pale, and the next moment the instrument

fell from his hand: he uttered a deep sigh, and dropped senseless on the

ground. They lifted him up, used instant means for his recovery, but all

was vain; their hope, their joy, their treasure, was gone: François

Phoebus--the young, beautiful, and good--was dying. Poison had done its

work, and treason was successful: he lived but a few minutes, and his

last words were suitable to his pure life. When he saw his distracted

mother and sister hanging over him in agony, he whispered, "Do not

lament, my reign is not of this world: I leave the things of earth, and

go to my father."

What a scene of desolation ensued to the country and the bereaved

mother, who had so long struggled with accumulated misfortune! To add

to the difficulties of her position, her only support, Louis XI., just

then died, and, beset by ambitious ministers and selfish counsellors,

betrayed, deceived, and thwarted, the unfortunate Magdelaine sunk under

her sorrows, and soon followed her fair son to the grave.

He was buried in great pomp at the cathedral of St. Marie of Lescar, and

his young sister, Catherine, was left to reign in his place. Of her

Providence made its peculiar care, and her fate, which threatened ill,

was happily turned aside.

Olhagaray, the historian of Béarn, gives the affecting answer of the

Countess Magdelaine to the ambassador of Spain, who, immediately after

her son's death, came to her Court to treat for the hand of the young

Queen Catherine. It was thus she spoke, "with an infinity of sobs and

tears:"

"Gentlemen,--You find me in poor condition to receive you according to

your merits: but you see my desolation and misery, and the ruin which is

come upon me. This last torrent of misfortune is as a deluge which

overwhelms me--a deep abyss of evil in which I am engulphed. Alas! when

I consider the just grief which environs me, I know not where I am!

Gaston, the brave Gaston, my lord and my husband, while yet I was in the

early joy of his sweet society, and was happy in his precious affection,

was torn from me. My woes were softened, and the dark night of my

widowhood enlightened by the brightness of my Phoebus. Poor, desolate

mother that I am! Heaven envied my content, and has hidden him from my

eyes. In this sad spot he expired: here, raising his eyes above, he

exclaimed, 'My reign is not of this world!'

"Did we not, nevertheless, expect much of him! would he not, had he

lived, have healed the wounds of his country, have applied salutary

remedies to all her evils! He saw the difficulties, he prepared himself

to thread the intricate mazes belonging to his crown of Navarre; yet,

when he held it in his hands, he said, it was not that crown that he

expected.

"What means have I now left me in the world that permit me to speak to

you of the state of Spain, of the health of the king, the queen, or the

court. I have no words but these, no reply but this: go, therefore, and

for all answer tell the king of Spain how you found me; say, that my

sadness and my tears but ill permitted me to read the letter with which

he honoured me; and thank him that he has kept so kind a remembrance of

me, praying him to continue me his friendship while I live his humble

servant."

CHAPTER X.

THE ROMANCES OF THE CASTLE OF ORTHEZ--TOUR DE MONCADE--THE

INFANTS--THE SON OF GASTON PHOEBUS--- LEGENDS--THE OATH--THE BAD

KING OF NAVARRE--THE QUARREL--THE MURDER--DEATH OF GASTON

PHOEBUS--PARADISE THE REWARD OF HUNTERS--THE CAPTIVE--THE

STEP-MOTHER--THE YOUNG COUNTESS--THE GREAT BEAR--THE RETURN--THE

REAL CAUSE--THE MEETING IN THE FOREST--THE MASS.

THE most interesting place on the road to Bayonne is Orthez, once the

seat of the counts of Foix. We proposed remaining there a short time, in

order to visit its remains on our way to Bayonne, and alighted at the

hotel of _La Belle Hôtesse_, which is on the site of _La Lune_, where

the historian, Froissart, stopped some centuries before us, and where he

heard so many stories and legends which he has immortalized in his

charming _romantic_ chronicle. The soldiers of Marshal Soult occupied

this inn in 1814, when the pale old lady, who is still mistress, then

deserved the title which her beauty gave to her house of entertainment.

On approaching Orthez we were struck with the appearance, on a height

above the town, of the castle ruins, whose battered walls seem so

fragile that a breath of wind might blow them away: the upper part of

the great tower is much injured, and its irregular stones project in a

manner which threatens their fall: the blue sky shone through the arrow

slits and windows, and the whole mass gave us an idea of its hastening

to immediate dissolution. It has an imposing and venerable effect, and

excited in our minds considerable interest: we therefore hastened up the

rugged way to the hill on which it stands, and there found ourselves in

the midst of the remains of one of the strongest castles of which this

part of Béarn could boast, from the earliest time.

It is called the castle of Moncade, having been, in 734, the abode of a

Catalonian knight of that name, who was accustomed to issue forth from

this strong-hold to combat the Moors of Spain. In after times the

fortress was possessed by a warlike lady, called La Grosse Comtesse

Garsende de Béarn, who, in 1242, offered her services to Henry III. of

England; and, after having fought in his cause with her knights and

vassals, and received a large sum of money in requital, she returned

home, and expended it on the castle, which she rendered impregnable. It

was probably a ruin in the time of Garsende; for the reparations she

made in the great tower are very evident; the lower part being more

discoloured than the upper story, in which there are windows, at a

great height, of trefoil form. The shape of the tower itself is very

unlike any I had before seen, and seemed to me extremely curious; it is

five-sided, each side presenting an acute angle, and one being flattened

at about a quarter of the height by a two-sided projection, which is not

a tower but probably a recess within from whence to send arrows; yet

there are no openings now visible; nor is there, on any side, a means of

entrance, except that a square-headed window opens very high up in the

wall towards the part where the rest of the castle joined this donjon. A

large hole in the wall, towards the open country, made, perhaps,

originally by English cannon in 1814, and enlarged since, allows ingress

to the interior. There are arches and recesses, and some ornamental

architecture to be traced within, but no doors in any direction; and my

idea of the fragility of the building was quickly dispelled when I

discovered that the solid walls were at least nine feet thick, the

angles sharp as a knife, and the apparently tottering stones as firm in

their rocky cement as if just built.

All round, for some extent, are remains of ruined walls, with a few

circular and pointed arches here and there; the clear stream flows

beneath where once was the moat, in one part, and on the other sides

bushes and brambles fill up the defences. A huge, fearful-looking well,

of enormous depth, is in the midst of all; where, perhaps, was once the

inner court-yard, and here we saw a group of peasants drawing water;

for Orthez is so badly supplied that the townspeople have to mount this

steep height, and fill their brass-bound pails, from which they dispense

the fine clear water to the inhabitants. This must have been long a

great inconvenience and trouble; but we discovered afterwards that

another fountain has been found in the town, not far from the bridge,

where we saw numerous visitors busy in the same occupation.

The view from the castle-height is very fine; the last of the range of

snowy mountains seen in such perfection from Pau rises in great majesty,

and closes the scene; while the luxuriant plain and hills around are

seen to a great distance. The valiant Catalonian, and the fierce

countess, must have been dangerous neighbours to their foes, commanding

as they did the country, for leagues round.

One of the lords of Moncade was father to a chosen Viscount of Béarn,

known in the annals of the country, amongst their numerous Gastons, as

Le Bon.

The story told respecting him is as follows: In the year 1170, Marie,

Viscountess of Béarn, a young princess of only sixteen, was induced by

interested counsellors to do homage for her domains to Alphonso the

Second, King of Arragon. This act, which took place at Jaca, required to

be confirmed by the barons of Béarn; but the latter, indignant at the

infringement of their rights, and attack on the independence of their

country, solemnly protested against the transaction, and proclaimed the

young viscountess unfit to govern, deprived her of her power, and

proceeded to the election of a new ruler.

Their choice fell on a lord of Bigorre, who, not proving himself worthy

of his election, but endeavouring to violate the laws, was put to death

in open assembly, falling, like Cæsar, by the hand of a patriot. Another

took his place, but the Béarnais, it appeared, were particularly

unfortunate in their selection, for he turned out no better than the

former, and was deposed.

It became necessary to fix on a governor, and the great men of the

kingdom, consulting together, came to the following conclusion: The

young viscountess, after her banishment, married William de Moncade, one

of the richest lords of Catalonia, and the issue of this union was

twins, both boys. It was agreed that one of these should fill the vacant

seat of sovereignty of Béarn, and two of the _prudhommes_ were deputed

to visit their father with the proposition. On their arrival at his

castle the sages found the children asleep, and observed with attention

their infant demeanour. Both were beautiful, strong, and healthy; and it

was a difficult matter to make an election between two such attractive

and innocent creatures. They were extremely alike, and neither could be

pronounced superior to the other; the _prudhommes_ were strangely

puzzled, for they had been so often deceived that they felt it to be

most important that they should not err this time. As they hung in

admiration over the sleeping babes, one of them remarked a circumstance

that at once decided their preference, and put an end to their

vacillation; one of the little heroes held his hand tightly closed; the

tiny, mottled palm of the other was wide open as it lay upon his snowy

breast. "He will be a liberal and bold knight," said one of the

Béarnais, "and will best suit us as a head." This infant was accordingly

chosen, given up by his parents to the wise men, and carried off in

triumph to be educated amongst his future subjects. The event proved

their sagacity, and Gaston le Bon lived to give them good laws and

prosperity.

A descendant of this chief was a Gaston, who opposed Edward I., of

England, and was thrown into prison by that terrible warrior, who

revenged his defeat in Santonge by fearful reprisals, and gave up the

town of Orthez to his soldiers, to pillage and destroy as they pleased.

Gaston was obliged to agree to a composition with the English prince;

and he was released from his dungeon in a castle in Gascony. An appeal

to the King of France was agreed on; and, when both were in presence of

the suzerain, Gaston threw down his glove of defiance against the King

of England, calling him a traitor and felon knight. Edward, starting

forward, and commanding his people, who heard the charge with rage, to

stand back, picked up the glove himself, and entreated that a single

combat might be allowed between them. The King of France, however,

opposed this; and the question of their dispute was decided by

law--rather an unusual thing in those days.

This tower of Moncade,--rendered, it appears, by Gaston, the father of

the little open-handed hero, as like as possible to his château in

Catalonia,--is the scene of several tragedies; and every stone could

tell some tale of sorrow and oppression. There is something singularly

fearful in the aspect of its strong walls and donjon, without an outlet.

In this very tower died, by his father's hand, the unfortunate son of

Gaston Phoebus, whose touching story is recounted by Froissart. Although

well-known, it is impossible to pass it over here, or to forget that

equally melancholy history of the young Queen Blanche, poisoned by her

sister.

The Son of Gaston Phoebus.

FROISSART, after describing the splendours of the castle of Orthez in

glowing terms, continues: "Briefly, and, considering all things, before

I came to this court I had visited those of many kings, dukes, princes,

counts, and ladies of high quality, but I never was in any which pleased

me so well, for feats of arms and gaiety, as that of the Count de Foix.

You might see, in the saloons and the chambers and in the courts,

knights and squires of honour going and coming; and you might hear them

speak of war and of love. All honour might there be found. There I was

informed of the greatest part of those feats of arms which took place in

Spain, Portugal, Arragon, Navarre, England, Scotland, and the frontiers

and limits of Languedoc, &c.; for I met there, on various missions to

the count, knights and squires of all these nations.

"Once, on a Christmas Day, I there saw at his table four Bishops, two

_Clémentins_, and two _Urbanists_ (partisans of the rival popes). There

were seated the Count de Foix, and the Viscount de Roquebertin

d'Arragon, the Viscount de Bruniquil, the Viscount de Gousserant, and an

English knight sent by the Duke of Lancaster, from Lisbon, where he then

sojourned. At another table were five abbés and two knights of Arragon;

at another, knights and squires of Gascony and Bigorre; and the

_sovereign master of the hall_ was Messire Espaign de Lyon, and four

knights _maîtres d'hôtel_. And the count's two natural brothers, Messire

Ernould Guillaume and Messire Pierre de Béarn, served him, together with

his two sons, Messire Yvain de l'Escale and Messire Gratien. I must tell

you that there was a crowd of minstrels, as well belonging to the count

as strangers, who filled up every interval with specimens of their art.

And this day the count gave to both minstrels and heralds the sum of

five hundred francs; and habits of cloth of gold, furred with _menu

vair_, he gave to the minstrels of the Duke of Touraine; the which

dresses were valued at two hundred francs. And the dinner lasted till

four hours after noon."

One figure is wanting in this brilliant account--the only legitimate son

of the magnificent Count of Foix, his child by Agnes of Navarre, whose

place, as well as that of her son, is vacant at her husband's table.

What might, even then, be the pangs of remorse that shot along the mind

of the mighty chief, as he looked round that brilliant assembly and felt

that his honours would end with himself? "No son of his succeeding."

Where was the young, blooming, accomplished, and promising heir, so

loved by his people, and once the object of his pride and hope?

Brilliant and gorgeous as was the present scene, what would have been

that which should have welcomed the affianced bride of his son to his

court? and many such would have hailed the happy events which might have

ensued. His two _natural_ sons, Yvain and Gratien, are there, full of

beauty, grace, and health; but, as the first approaches, and hands him a

cup of wine, he trembles and sets down the goblet, untasted, for an

instant. He recovers, however, and quaffs the wine to the health of his

friends: the minstrels strike their harps; and one--the chief--bursts

forth in a strain of adulation, lauding to the skies the glories and the

virtues of the most liberal and magnificent prince of his time. Gaston

listens with pride and satisfaction; and, by degrees, the low moaning

which had seemed to sound in his ears dies away, and he laughs loud, and

dispenses his gracious words around, endeavouring to forget that so

great a prince could ever know care, or feel remorse, for what it was

his will to do. But it is necessary to tell why Gaston Phoebus felt

remorse in the midst of his splendid court.

At the conclusion of a long war between the houses of Foix and Armagnac,

it was agreed between the chiefs of the contending parties, that a

marriage should take place between Gaston, the young heir of Béarn, and

the fair Beatrix d'Armagnac. A temporary house was constructed on the

confines of the two territories, between Barcelone and Aire, where now a

wooden pillar indicates the division of the departments of Les Landes

and Gers; and there everything was settled. The Bishop of Lectoure said

mass; and an oath of the most terrible description passed between the

two princes, that they would never infringe the treaty. Part of the

_formula_ ran thus: "And, in case of failing in this promise, they would

deny God, _that he might be against them_; and, utterly to damn both

their bodies and souls, they would take the devil for their lord, and

have their sepulchres in hell, now and for evermore."

The young bride, in consideration of twenty thousand francs of gold,

which were given her as a dower, renounced all her rights, both paternal

and maternal; and the pope, to stop the effusion of blood caused by the

quarrels of the two houses, gave all the necessary dispensations

required in consequence of parentage. Then the Bishop of Lescar

celebrated the betrothment, that same day, in the Château de Monclar.

Both bride and bridegroom were very young, full of hope, and with every

prospect of happiness. _La gaie Armagnoise_, as the young princess was

called, lively and happy, and, according to all historians, a lady of

the greatest amiability; the Prince of Béarn affectionate, brave, and

handsome. With the whole assembly at Monclar,

"All went merry as a marriage bell;"

but they had reckoned without Charles the Bad, King of Navarre!

Like one of those fell enchanters of romance, who appear suddenly in the

midst of rejoicings where they have not been invited, and cast a spell

upon the guests, changing joy to mourning, Charles of Navarre's

influence blighted the

"----bud of love in summer's ripening breath,"

that

"should prove a beauteous flower----."

Agnes of Navarre, Countess of Foix, had become the victim of the

disputes between her husband and brother: she had been sent from

Gaston's court to that of Charles, in order to induce the latter to pay

a ransom which he owed the count, and which he treacherously and

dishonourably withheld. The unfortunate wife remained at her brother's

court, soliciting in vain that he should do justice to the severe

husband, to whom she dared not return empty-handed. Her son, attached to

his mother, and anxious to receive her blessing on his marriage,

entreated permission to visit her in Navarre. He was received there with

great demonstrations of honour and affection. Charles the Bad lamented

to him the feud between his father and himself, and expressed his regret

at the manifest dislike which Count Gaston showed to his wife, and

dwelling much on this last cause of sorrow, in which the young prince

heartily joined, he gave it as his opinion that the feeling must be

occasioned by supernatural means, and could only be combated by a

similar power. He had, he said, in his possession a medicine of such

virtue that, if it were administered properly, it would counteract any

evil influence, and restore the mind of the person to whom it was given

to a right tone.

"Take, my beloved nephew," said he, "this bag of powder, and when an

opportunity presents itself, pour it into your father's cup, or strew it

over the meat he eats: it is a love potion--and no sooner shall he have

swallowed it, than all his former affection for your dear mother will

return. Think, then, what happy days are in store for us all! Agnes will

once more take her place amongst you; will bless you and your fair wife;

and I, who am banished from that society I most prize, shall once more

embrace my friend and witness his happiness."

This picture was too flattering to the ardent young boy of fifteen: with

all the credulity of his time and the simplicity of his age, he caught

at such a means of restoring his family to peace and joy, and,

gratefully accepting the present of his uncle, he suspended the little

bag containing the wondrous drug round his neck by a ribbon, and

departed from the Court of Navarre full of hope and expectation.

On his arrival in Béarn he could scarcely refrain, in spite of his

uncle's injunctions to the contrary, from communicating his secret to

his favourite brother, Jobain (Yvain), his father's natural son, who

shared his confidence as well as his couch. Jobain, however, was not

long before he observed the ribbon round his brother's neck, and pressed

him to explain the meaning of the little bag which he saw suspended

there. Young Gaston, confused at finding his secret so nearly

discovered, bade him inquire no further,--that there was a mystery

attached to it which he dared not tell; "but you will soon see," he

added, cheerfully, "a great change in my father: and he and my dear

mother will be well together."

A few days after this, the brothers were playing at the _jeu de paume_,

and a dispute arose between them which grow more and more violent, till

Gaston forgot himself so far as to strike Jobain on the face: it was but

a childish quarrel, which the next moment might have healed, but

Jobain's passion was so excited, that in his first fury he rushed to his

father, and accused Gaston of concealing in his bosom a bag of poison,

intended to be administered to the count, in order to cause his death.

Count Gaston, on hearing this accusation, without giving himself time

for a moment's reflection, which would have shown him the improbability

of the story, burst into so ungovernable a fury that he became almost

frantic, and it was with the utmost difficulty his knights prevented his

instantly putting his son to death. The states of Foix and Béarn, to

whose judgment he was at length induced to refer the sentence of this

involuntary parricide, were more moderate. "My lord," said they, "saving

your grace, we will not that Gaston should die: he is your heir, and you

have no other."

It is even asserted, that those of Foix in particular would not consent

to retire until they had received a promise from the count that he would

not attempt his son's life. It was, therefore, on the servants of young

Gaston that the weight of his fury fell; and he caused no less than

fifteen to suffer the utmost extremity of torture, under which they

died. As for the unhappy prince, he had already condemned himself.

Confined in his tower of Orthez, he had taken to his bed, and there lay,

concealing himself in the clothes; and for several days refused all

nourishment, giving himself up altogether to despair. Those whose

business it was to serve him, finding this, became alarmed, and,

hastening to his father, related the fact:

"My Lord," said they, "for the love of God, take heed to your son; for

he is starving in the prison, where he lies, and has not eaten since he

entered there, for his meat remains untouched as when we first took it

into the tower."

Thereupon the count started up, without uttering a word, and, quitting

his chamber, hurried to the prison where his son was, says Froissart,

and, "by ill fortune, he held in his hand a _small, long knife_, with

which he was cleaning and arranging his nails. He commanded the door of

the dungeon to be opened, when he went straight to his son, and, still

holding the knife in his hand by the blade, _which did not project from

it more than half an inch_, he caught him by the throat, calling out,

'Ha! traitor!--why will you not eat?' and by some means the steel

entered into a vein. The count, on this, instantly departed, neither

saying or doing more, and returned to his chamber. His poor child,

terrified at the sight of his father, felt all his blood turn, weak as

he was with fasting, and the point of the knife having opened a vein in

his throat, _however small it might have been_,--turned him round--and

died!

"Thus," continues the chronicler, "it was as I tell you: this was the

death of young Gaston de Foix. _His father, in truth, killed him_; but

it was the King of Navarre who directed the blow."

The agony of remorse or affection of the inhuman count, it is but just

to say, was extreme, on finding how all had ended; "and the body of the

child was taken away with cries and tears to the _Frères Mineurs_, at

Orthez, and there buried."

What now remained to the brilliant Gaston Phoebus? He had no legitimate

child, and he hated the next heir, Mathieu de Castelbon, "because he was

not a valiant knight at arms." His intention was to leave his large

possessions to his two natural sons; but, before he had made the proper

dispositions to secure it to them, he was surprised by death in the

hospital of Orion, two leagues from Orthez, as he was washing his hands

on his return from his favourite pursuit of hunting the bear, about

which he is eloquent in his work on the Chase; and all that Yvain, the

betrayer of young Gaston, could do, was to take possession of his

father's ring, and his _little long knife_--that fatal instrument!--and

by those tokens procured that the gates of the castle of Orthez should

be opened to him; hoping to obtain _a part of the treasures_ of the

count, who had not less than a million of crowns of gold in his coffers.

It was in the month of August, under a hot sun, that Gaston Phoebus had

hunted the bear half the day; and on arriving at Orion, about two

leagues from Orthez, he appeared delighted at the coolness of the fresh

strewn room, where the dinner was prepared: "This verdure," said he,

"does me good, for the day has been fearfully hot!" They brought him

water to wash, but no sooner did he feel its coldness on his

fingers--which were "_fine, long and straight_"--than he was seized with

a fit, probably of apoplexy, and was dead almost immediately, to the

extreme terror of all with him. Yvain, it seems, was at first full of

grief, but listened to the advice of those who recommended him instantly

to repair to the castle of Orthez, and secure what treasure he could.

Accordingly he rode off, and by showing the count's ring and knife, was

admitted; but the coffer, bound with iron and closed with many locks,

was opened by a key, which the count always wore round his neck, in a

little bag, and that key was found by the chaplain on his master, after

Yvain's departure, who was vainly striving to force open the strong

chest. The news, in spite of precaution, soon spread in Orthez; and the

citizens, who were all greatly attached to their lord, came in crowds to

the court of the castle, demanding news of him. Yvain was obliged to

speak to them from a window, and declare the truth; appealing to them to

protect his right, and not suffer the castle or its contents to be

injured. To this they all agreed, as they deplored his being

illegitimate, and consequently incapable of succeeding his father.

Then the air rung with lamentations. "Alas!" cried they, "all will go

ill with us now! we shall be attacked by all our neighbours: no more

peace and safety for us; nothing but misery and subjection, for we have

none to defend us now, and none to answer the challenger. Ha, Gaston!

unfortunate son! why did you offend your father? We might still have

looked to you; for beautiful and great was your beginning, and much

comfort were we promised in you. We lost you too young, and your father

has left us too soon. Alas! he had seen but sixty-three years--no great

age for a knight so powerful and so strong, and one who had all his

wishes and desires. Oh, land of Béarn! desolate, and lamenting for thy

noble heir, what is to be thy fate? Never shall be seen the peer of the

gentle and noble Count of Foix!"

With such cries and tears was the body of Gaston Phoebus, "uncovered on

a bier," brought through Orthez to the church of the Cordeliers, and

there laid in state; with forty-eight squires to guard it, and

four-and-twenty large tapers burning by it, night and day. Then came the

burial, where knights and lords and bishops assisted; and the new Count

of Castelbon, the heir of all the possessions of the magnificent Gaston,

showed becoming honour to his remains. Castelbon then took possession;

and his first act was to provide for the two sons, who had no

inheritance, and to release the prisoners in the tower of Orthez,--"of

which," says Froissart, "there were many; for the Count of Foix, of

excellent memory, was _very cruel in this particular_, and never spared

man, how high soever, who had offended him: nor was any bold enough to

plead for the ransom of a prisoner, for fear of meeting the same fate:

_they were put in the fosse, and fed on bread and water_. This very

cousin, Castelbon, had been his captive in such a dungeon for eight

months, and was ransomed only for forty thousand francs, and he held him

in great hatred; and, had he lived two years more, he would never have

had the heritage."

The famous work of the count, on Hunting, he dedicated to the King of

France; and in it he endeavours to prove the advantages, both to body

_and soul_, of the manly exercise of which he was a passionate lover.

His own death appears to disprove his arguments, which are curious

enough. He thus expresses himself in his Prologue:--"I, Gaston, by the

grace of God, surnamed Phoebus, Count of Foys, and Lord of Béarn, have,

all my life, been fond of three things--war, love, and hunting; in the

two first others may have excelled me, and been more fortunate; but, in

the last, I flatter myself, without boasting, that I have no superior.

* * * and, besides treating of beasts of chase and their natures, I am

convinced that my book is calculated to prove the great good that may

arise from the exercise of hunting. A man, by its means, avoids the

seven mortal sins; for he has no time to think of the commission of any

while he is engaged with his horses and hounds: he is more lively, more

ready, more expert, more enterprising, makes himself acquainted with

countries, and is quick and active: all good habits and manners follow,

and the salvation of his soul as well; for, by avoiding sin, a Christian

shall be saved; and this he does; therefore, a hunter must be saved. His

life is full of gaiety, pleasure, and amusement, and he has only to

guard against two things: one, that he forgets not the knowledge and

service of God, _and does not neglect his duty to his liege lord_.

"Now, I will prove this fact. It is well known that idleness is the root

of evil; when a man is lazy, negligent, unemployed, he remains in his

bed, and in his chamber, and a thousand evil imaginations take

possession of him: now a hunter rises at daybreak, and sees the sweet

and fresh morning, the clear and serene weather; he hears the song of

birds warbling softly and lovingly, each in its language: when the sun

is up, he beholds the bright dew glittering with its rays on streams and

meadows, and joy is in the heart of the hunter. Then comes the excited

delight of the pursuit, the cries, the sound of horns, the cry of dogs,

the triumph of success--what time has he to think of evil things! He

comes back weary, but satisfied; his early meal was but slight, for he

set out so soon; it is late before he seeks a second, and that is seldom

otherwise than frugal; he washes, he dresses, and he sups upon his game,

and shares it with his friends: then he enjoys the soft air of evening:

after his exertions, he lies him down in fine sheets of fresh and fair

linen, and sleeps well and healthily, without thinking of evil things.

Thus, by frugal living, great exercise, and cheerful occupation, he

avoids great maladies, has good health, _and lives long_. And never knew

I man, who was attached to hawks and hounds, but was of good disposition

and habits; for the love of hunting springs from nobleness and

gentleness of heart, whether one be a great lord or a poor man, high or

low."

The brother of poor young Gaston, who, perhaps, had a deeper motive than

momentary passion when he made the accusation to his father which

destroyed him, guilty or innocent, afterwards met a dreadful doom. In

that fatal masquerade of savages, when Charles VI. was so nearly burnt

to death, Yvain de Foix was one of those, whose dress catching fire,

and being sewn on close to his skin, could not be taken off, and he died

in extreme torture, after lingering two days. If he had, indeed,

intended to effect his brother's death, what must have been his feelings

under all the frightful sufferings he endured!

Alas! the glories of the magnificent Gaston Phoebus were fearfully

extinguished in blood and flame! Alas! the splendours of the proud

castle of Orthez were dimmed with cruelty and suffering! No wonder that

spectres are still said to walk and wail around the ruined tower; no

wonder that the moans of the feeble prince, fainting beneath the blow of

his mail-clad chief, are heard at night echoing through the loop-holes

of the battered walls; or that the plaintive cries of another victim

startle the shepherd returning late from the hills.

This other victim has also a melancholy story to relate of the injustice

and cruelty of near relatives, and the dangers of exalted birth and

great possessions. Charles and Blanche of Navarre, brother and sister,

were both "done to death" by those nearest to them; and while the pale

shade of Queen Blanche still flits along the ruined battlements of

Moncade, the spectre of Prince Charles haunts the streets of Barcelona,

where he was poisoned; crying out for ever on his murderess,

"Vengeance--Vengeance on Doña Juana!"

Story of Queen Blanche.

The mother of these two died, leaving the youthful Prince of Vienne heir

to her kingdom of Navarre, having just married her eldest daughter,

Blanche, to Henry, King of Castile, and her younger daughter, Leonore,

to the Count of Foix. She was herself the wife of John, King of Arragon;

who, after her death, desired to be himself the sovereign of Navarre, in

lieu of his son, Charles, whom he instantly confined in a dungeon in

Lerida. The prince was, however, beloved by the people, and the Catalans

rose in a body to deliver him: they effected their purpose, and bore off

the rescued prisoner in triumph, but not before a cruel step-mother,

Doña Juana, who had replaced the first wife of King John, had

administered to him a potion, whose effects soon showed themselves, for

he died in the hands of his deliverers.

The young Queen Blanche, of Castile, was now the heiress of Navarre; but

she succeeded her brother only in his misfortunes and his fate. Married

at twelve years old, her husband, when she was sixteen, had already

repudiated her, believing himself bewitched, and in danger in her

society. Impressed with this imagination, the King of Navarre, in an

interview with his wife's brother-in-law, the Count de Foix, agreed that

Blanche should be given up to him, and forced to embrace a life of

celibacy, in order that her sister, Leonore, Countess of Foix, should

enjoy her possessions.

When news was brought to Queen Blanche that she must follow the

messengers sent to Olite, to carry her to Orthez, her despair knew no

bounds: she felt that her doom was sealed, and her fearful destiny was

but too clear to her mind. She even, in her agony, wrote a letter of

entreaty to her unnatural husband, to entreat his protection; but he

remained deaf and indifferent to her supplications, and the doomed lady

was taken away, a prisoner, to the tower of Moncade.

Hero, for two years, languished the ill-fated heiress; her captivity

embittered by the sad reflection that her sister was her jailor, and her

father and husband her betrayers. A ray of hope suddenly gleamed upon

her fortunes; but whether, in her secret dungeon, any pitying friend

contrived to let her know that she had yet a chance of escape and

triumph, does not appear. Louis XI. came into Béarn. It was not any

feeling of compassion for a political victim that influenced him to take

part with the captive; for he was just the person to approve of an act,

however cruel, which would secure power to a sovereign; but his own

interests appeared affected by this arrangement of things; and, in a

conference at Pampluna, in which the powerful family of Beaumont offered

their services to assist the project, it was agreed that the captive

Queen should be demanded at the hands of the Count de Foix, and

reinstated in her rights.

Leonora and her husband saw that the time was come when nothing but a

further crime could secure them from danger. Blanche, once dead, nothing

stood between her sister and the throne of Navarre; and what was her

life in comparison with the great advantages they should derive? A

deputation from the states of Béarn arrived; the Beaumonts and King

Louis sent imperious messages, which were received with the utmost

humility by the Count and Countess of Foix: they had no wish to oppose

the general desire; there was but one obstacle to the accomplishment of

the end in view. They represented that their beloved sister, whose

health had long required extreme care, and who had been the object of

their solicitude ever since Prince Charles's death, was on a bed of

sickness--every hour she grew worse--and, at length, it was their

melancholy duty to announce her death.

"Treason had done its worst,"

and Blanche had breathed her last in the Tour de Moncade.

A magnificent funeral was prepared--much lamentation and mourning

ensued--and the body of the royal victim was pompously interred with her

ancestors, the Princes of Béarn, in the cathedral of Lescar.[35]

[Footnote 35: Some historians say that Blanche was confined at the

castle of Lescar, but there is no foundation for the assertion: no

castle but that of Pau or Orthez would have been sufficiently strong to

retain a prisoner of so much importance. Moret, and other Spanish

authors, relate the event as above.]

Five years after this tragedy, the vengeance of Heaven--still called for

by the shades of the brother and sister--overtook Doña Juana, their

cruel step-mother. She died in the agonies of a lingering disease, and

in her torments betrayed, by her ravings, her crimes to all. Her

constant exclamation was, "Hijo! que me caro cuestas!" _Oh, my son! you

have cost me dear!_ alluding to her own son, for whose sake she had

sacrificed the former children of her husband. She died, deserted by

all; for that husband, equally guilty, on hearing that her words had

betrayed her, thought it policy to feign indignation at her wickedness,

and refused to visit her in her dying moments. The memory of the

unnatural father is still preserved in a Spanish proverb, which alludes

only to his sole good quality--liberality--in which he was extreme: in

application to courtiers--who look for presents which are long

coming--it is usual to say, "Ya se muriò rey Don Juan."

There is no end to the stories which may be told of the castle of

Orthez, and those in its neighbourhood; the knights and squires of

Gaston de Foix's court, when not engaged in jousts and tournaments, or

in fighting in earnest, seemed never weary of telling histories which

their guest, Froissart, listened to with eager attention; amongst them,

the following is characteristic of his ready belief, and the credulity

of the time:

The Great Bear of Béarn.

Messire Pierre de Béarn, natural brother of Gaston Phoebus, was the

victim of a strange malady, which rendered him an object both of fear

and pity: there was a mystery attached to his sufferings which no one of

the learned or inquisitive attendants who surrounded him could explain;

and when Froissart inquired why it was that he was not married, being so

handsome and so valiant a knight, his question was met with "the shrug,

the hum, the ha," that denoted some secret. At length, as he was not

easily to be satisfied when anything romantic was on the _tapis_, he

found a person to explain to him how things stood with respect to the

brother of the count.

"He is, in fact, married," said the squire who undertook to resolve his

doubts; "but neither his wife nor children live with him, and the cause

is as follows." He then went on to relate his story:

The young Countess Florence, of Biscay, was left an heiress by her

father, who had died suddenly in a somewhat singular manner; his cousin,

Don Pedro the Cruel, of Castile, being the only person who could tell

the reason of his having been put to death. His daughter, who feared

that the friendship of such a relation might be as dangerous to herself,

being warned to avoid him, as she had fallen under his displeasure in

consequence of having hinted that she knew how his wife, the sister of

the Duke of Bourbon, and the Queen of France, met her end, thought it

better to escape as quickly as she could from Biscay, leaving her

estates in his power; and she came to the Basque country a fugitive,

with a small retinue, glad to have saved her life, though all besides

was his prey. This distressed damsel, knowing that all honour was shown

to ladies at the court of Gaston de Foix, lost no time in directing her

steps to the Castle of Orthez, where, throwing herself at the feet of

the gallant count, she related her wrongs, and implored his assistance.

Gaston entreated her to be comforted, and assured her that he was ready

to do all in his power to assist her: he consigned her to the care of

the Lady of Coarraze, his relation, a high baroness of the country. With

all his generosity, Gaston Phoebus never seems to have lost sight of his

own interest, and it struck him immediately that the heiress was exactly

the match he desired for his brother, Pierre de Béarn. Accordingly, he

so arranged matters that the young Countess of Biscay and her domains

should remain in his family; he married her to Pierre, and re-conquered

her lands from the cruel King of Castile.

A son and a daughter were the fruits of this union, which appeared a

happy one; but the fates or the fairies did not allow it to remain so.

In Béarn, as in other parts of the world, although hunting is a very

agreeable amusement, it sometimes brings with it unpleasant

consequences, though Count Gaston may say nay. The woods, forests, and

mountains, it is well known, belong exclusively to beings who are

tenacious of their reign being disturbed, and who generally contrive to

revenge themselves on the hardy hunter who ventures to invade their

secret retreats. Nevertheless, at all periods, men are found incautious

enough to tempt them, and seldom does it happen that they do not suffer

for their temerity.

Pierre de Béarn, like his brother, Gaston, was remarkably fond of the

chase. The Countess Florence, on the contrary, held the pastime in the

utmost abhorrence, and to please her he abstained from the sport he

loved during the early period of their union; but at length he became

weary of this self-denial, and, in an evil hour, he set forth on an

expedition into the forests of Biscay to hunt the bear. He had not been

fortunate at first in his search, and had climbed some of the highest

parts of the mountain in hopes to meet with game worthy of him, when he

suddenly came upon the track of a tremendous animal, such as he had

never before beheld in his experience.

He followed it for some time over plains of ice, his gallant hounds in

full chase; at length, the mighty beast--apparently, indignant at their

perseverance, just as they had arrived at a gorge of the rocks, beneath

which a precipice descended on either side--turned round on his

pursuers, and presented a front sufficient to daunt the courage of the

boldest. The dogs, however, rushed on him, but, with one blow of his

enormous paw, he stretched them dead at his feet; four of the finest met

the same fate, and several, disabled and wounded, shrunk howling back to

their master, who stood firm, his spear poised, waiting the proper

moment of attack. Pierre saw that no time was to be lost, for he was

alone, having, in his eagerness, outstripped his companions; his dogs

were of no further use, and he must trust now to his own strength and

skill.

The spear went flying through the air, and struck the monster in the

breast; furious with pain, he uttered a hideous howl, and rushed

forward, catching, in his long claws, the left arm of the knight, whose

right hand was armed with his hunting-knife, which he had hastily drawn

from his belt; with this, in spite of the pain he felt, he continued to

strike the monster, whose roaring echoed through the caverns of the rock

like thunder at every stroke.

At this instant, and just as the knight's strength was nearly exhausted,

he beheld, with joy, his friends advancing to his aid; two of them

sprang forward and discharged their spears; but still, though

desperately wounded, the bear would not release the arm he continued to

gripe, and, as he turned upon them, dragged his first foe with him. As,

however, his head was directed towards the new comers, Pierre, with a

strong effort, made another plunge in his neck, which instantly had the

effect of making him release his hold; he then drew his dagger--for his

knife remained in the animal's body--and, with the assistance of his

friends, the bear was despatched. As the body lay on the ground, a pause

of astonishment ensued after the shouts of the victors; for never was so

gigantic a beast beheld in the Pyrenees, and it seemed a miracle that

Pierre had escaped: his arm was fearfully injured, and he was faint with

exertion; but his triumph was so great that he hardly permitted his

wound to be bound up. They placed the carcase of the bear on their

shoulders, and with great difficulty carried it from the spot where it

fell; it was then consigned to their attendants, and the whole train

returned in great delight to the castle. As they entered the court, they

were met by the Countess Florence and her ladies, who had been uneasy at

the long absence of her lord. No sooner had she cast her eyes on the

huge beast they were carrying, than she turned deadly pale, uttered a

loud shriek, and fainted on the ground.

The lady was borne to her chamber, and for two days and two nights she

uttered not a word; but was in great pain and tribulation, sighing and

moaning piteously: at the end of that time she said to her husband, "My

lord, I shall never be better till I have been on a pilgrimage to St.

James; give me leave to go, and to take with me Pierre, my son, and

Adriana, my daughter. I beg it as a boon." Messire Pierre, distressed to

see her situation, granted her request too readily.

The countess then ordered a great train to be prepared, and set forth on

her journey, taking with her treasure and jewels of great value, which

was not much remarked at the time; but she knew well that she did not

intend to return. Her journey and her pilgrimage accomplished, she

announced her intention to pay a visit to her cousins, the King and

Queen of Castile; and to their Court she went, and was received with

joy. And there the Countess Florence is still, and will not return, nor

send back her children. The very night on which he had killed the great

bear, Messire Pierre was seized with the malady which has ever since

taken possession of him. "He rises," said the squire, "in the night,

arms himself, draws his sword, and, with loud and furious cries and

gestures, like a man possessed, flies at every one near him, and makes

such a terrific noise and confusion that it would seem fiends were in

his chamber. His squires and valets awake him, and he is quite

unconscious of what has happened, and will not believe those who relate

to him what he has done in his sleep. Now, it is said," continued the

squire, "that the lady knew well what would happen the moment she saw

the great bear; for her father had hunted that very animal, and when he

came up to it, he heard a voice which said, 'Why do you persecute me

thus? I never did you any ill: you shall die of an untimely death.' And

so, indeed, did he, being beheaded by King Pedro the Cruel, without

cause. This was the reason she fainted and was in such tribulation; and

for this cause she never loved her husband after, for she always feared

he would do her a bodily injury; and that harm would happen to her or

hers, while she stayed with him."

The squire and the historian's comments on this strange story are more

amusing than wise. "We know well," said Froissart, "by ancient writings,

that gods and goddesses were in the habit of changing into birds and

beasts men and women who offended them. It might well, therefore, happen

that this great bear was in his time a knight accustomed to hunt in the

forests of Biscay; he probably did something to anger some deity of the

woods, and consequently lost his human shape, and got changed into a

bear, to do penance for his offence."

Whether Froissart really believed what he was saying, or whether the

opinion was merely advanced to afford him an opportunity to display his

classical learning, is not clear; but he forthwith inflicts upon his

hearer the story of the "_Joli Chevalier Acteon_;" at which the other is

marvellously pleased.

They continue to speculate upon the reasons of the Countess Florence for

quitting her husband, and conclude that she knew more than she chose to

tell. It has been thought that the lady, when very young, was one day in

the forest, having strayed from the castle, within whose garden walls

she was weary of being kept. She was delighted when she found herself at

liberty, and kept wandering on, up one alley and down another, wherever

she saw flowers, and the sun streamed through the leaves; till, at last,

the evening began to close, and she turned her steps to return; but

there was such a labyrinth of trees, and every path was so like another,

that she knew not which to choose, and became alarmed lest she should

not reach home before night, and her absence would be discovered. She

hurried forward in great uncertainty, and her fears increased every

moment; for she seemed to be getting further and further in the depths

of the forest; suddenly she came upon a great rock in which was a

cavern, and at its mouth she paused a moment to look round her, when a

sound issued from it which almost paralysed her with terror, and

presently forth rushed a huge black bear, who seized her in his paws.

She shrieked loudly, for she expected her hour was come, when, to her

amazement, she heard a voice from the monster, and these words: "You

have intruded on my privacy; I did not seek you; remain and be my

companion, or at once I put you to death." She was so amazed that she

had scarcely power to answer; but summoning her courage, she replied, "I

am a great lady, and the daughter of the lord of Biscay: release me, and

it shall be the better for you; kill me, and my father will take a

signal revenge." "You shall not quit this forest," replied the monster,

"till you promise what I demand. I will then transport you to your

father's castle, when you shall make him swear never to hunt in my

domains again. If he should do so, he shall die a violent death; and all

with whom you shall in future be in connexion shall be under the same

promise, or I will cause them to die badly. If any, after this vow, hunt

me, and it should happen that I am killed, misfortune shall come on you

and your race for my sake."

The lady promised, as indeed she had no choice but to do; and the great

bear then ordered her to follow him; she did so, and in a few moments

she saw the castle in view. "Now," said he, "give me another promise. If

I should be killed by any one belonging to you, swear that you will go

to the shrine of St. James, of Compostella, and pray for my soul, for I

am not a bear, as I appear, but a knight, transformed for my sins." As

he spoke, and while Florence made the vow he required, she saw his skin

changing by degrees, and his form taking another appearance, till he

stood before her, in the misty light, a fair young knight, the

handsomest her eyes had ever beheld; he looked mournfully upon her, and

disappeared, and she found herself suddenly in her own turret, in her

chamber, on her bed, and no one had perceived her absence. She related

this adventure to her father, who, much amazed thereat, refused to

credit her tale; nor would he give up his accustomed pastime of hunting

for all her entreaties, by which stubborn conduct his fate came upon him

as has been related.

The lady, the more she thought of the beauty of the transformed knight,

loved him the more; but she had no hope ever again to see him, and her

misfortunes having obliged her to quit her country, and take refuge in

Béarn, all happened as has been told. She was not more fortunate with

her husband than her father, in preventing his hunting in the forests

of Biscay; and when she saw the great bear had been killed, she lamented

her lover, as well as the ill fate which he had predicted for her

lineage. Certain it is, that she never afterwards returned to Messire

Pierre, and that she gave great treasure to the church of St. James, of

Compostella, that perpetual mass might be said for _a soul in

purgatory_.

CHAPTER XI.

THE COUNTESS OF COMMINGES--THE CHARGE--THE PERSECUTED HEIRESS--THE

BRIDGE--THE CORDELIER--COSTUME--ASPREMONT--PEYREHORADE.

ALTHOUGH Count Gaston Phoebus was a tyrant, who spared none in his

anger, yet he had all the virtues which were admired by the bold spirits

of the men of his time; amongst the chief of which was hospitality. Like

a true knight of old, he afforded protection to distressed ladies and

damsels, and his Court was a refuge sought, and not in vain, by all who

had been injured by those stronger than themselves, or who required

assistance in any way. Amongst other ladies who came to throw themselves

at the feet of this redoubted righter of wrongs was the Countess Alienor

de Comminges, wife of the Count of Boulogne, and the right heiress of

the county of Comminges, then in the hands of the Lord of Armagnac, who

unjustly detained it. This spirited lady one day made her appearance at

the Castle of Orthez, with her little girl of three years old in her

hand, and demanded protection of Gaston Phoebus. She was received with

great honour and respect, and Gaston listened with great benignity to

her complaint.

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