CHAPTER VII

THE GAY SCIENCE

"Li douz cossire

Qem don amors soven

Domnam fan dire

De vos maint vers plazem

Pessan remire

Vostre cors car e gen

Cui eu dezire

Mas qu non faz parven;

E sitot me deslei

Per vos ges nous abnei

Q'ades vas vos soplei

De francha benevolensa

Domna on beutaz gensa."

From a famous Canzo by GUILHELM DE CABESTAING.

"The sweet thoughts which love gives me often, Lady, makes me

sing of you many a pleasant song. Thinking, I gaze on your dear

and comely self, which I desire more than I allow to appear;

and although I seem disloyal for your sake, it is not you I

deny. For soon towards you I pray with true love, Lady, in

whom beauty is an ornament."

The more we see of cities and castles the more our ignorance chafes

us, gets in our way. Our few books were insufficient. There was but one

thing to do: call at the famous little bookshop in the Rue d'Agricole

at Avignon--which alluring city we made our axis of movement--and lay

in a store of enlightening literature.

The shop is now the property of the widow of the poet Roumanille, who

with Mistral and Théodore Aubanel founded at Avignon the celebrated

Félibres, that wonderful band of poets--Troubadours of the twentieth

century--who have produced a literature in the once despised Provençal

tongue, breathing forth all the spirit of their native land. Intense

love of that land, of its ancient language, its architecture, costume,

history, creeds, has been the inspiration of this brilliant group, and

perhaps no other outburst of song has ever been fuller than this is of

warmth, colour, joy, sorrow, and that indefinable quality we call poetry.

The little shop in the quiet Rue d'Agricole was classic ground,

associated with many an enthusiastic meeting, many a happy hour of talk

and friendship among this warm-hearted fraternity. It was easy to find

books, but not easy to select them. There were piles and piles of the

works of the Félibres, and this title is claimed by a goodly number of

writers not now limited to natives of Provence, but including Englishmen

and Americans; and women too, for this genial brotherhood welcomes the

sex worshipped by their minstrel forefathers, and every seven years a

woman receives the honour of being crowned Queen of the Félibres.

With the kind help of Madame Roumanille, a selection was finally made,

the hard task being to choose that which was likely to be really useful

to travellers passing through a hitherto unknown country. There were

books on every conceivable subject: the ethnology of the Midi, with all

its mystery of race and language; the Phœnicians, the Greek colonies,

the Celtic, Ligurian, and Gallic inhabitants, endless histories of the

Roman occupation from the time when that astounding people settled in the

south-east corner of France and called it _Provincia_, "the Province."

Archæology of course has a gala time of it in this thoroughfare of the

nations, and the treasures of art are innumerable. The list begins with

implements of the Stone Age. Provence in the Middle Ages and the days of

the troubadours of course is profusely treated. Architecture also fares

brilliantly. Besides the splendid classic remains at Arles, Nimes, St.

Remy, Orange, there are churches of a style such as can be found in no

other part of the world; a version of the Romanesque which is peculiar

to the South of France.

[Illustration: VIEW FROM ST. GILLES, CAMARGUE.

_By E. M. Synge._]

A literature of controversy swells in volume daily: the vexed question

as to the spot where Hannibal crossed the Rhone on his way through Spain

to Italy having set almost as many professors by the ears as the problem

of the exact position of the great Aurelian road, parts of which have

been destroyed. The geology and physical geography of the littoral has

occupied another set of savants, notably the well-known Lenthéric, who

treats with remarkable vividness what would seem a somewhat unpopular

theme: the changes in configuration of the land and the works of natural

engineering accomplished by the Rhone as it reaches the sea by its many

mouths. Amongst all these subjects it was necessary to make a choice;

and here Barbara came to the rescue. She wanted to know more about

the troubadours. The books we had brought with us had already awakened

interest in their romantic songs.

It soon became evident that unless we were prepared to make a serious

study of their works we must be satisfied with a general notion of the

civilisation which they may be said to have created. Our authorities

therefore had to be consulted judiciously and the temptation resisted

to saunter down all the alluring bye-ways that they offered. There were

so many other doors to open and curtains to raise if we desired to have

even a faint idea of the brilliant drama of this extraordinary country.

[Illustration: FAÇADE OF CHURCH, SAINT GILLES.

_By Joseph Pennell._]

We used to seek some quiet spot in the garden on the Rocher du Dom

and read or talk as fancy dictated. Soon we found ourselves in a very

labyrinth of story and legend. Veil after veil was lifted and the events

of bygone days began to loom out upon the background that was still real

and sunlit before our eyes. The lie of the land, the personality of the

cities, the part that the castles had played in the romantic story, all

rose before us like some bright mirage. The very air seemed full once

more of Provençal song and dance: tenso, chanson, rondo, pastorella,

descort, ballada; and one could almost hear the twang of lute and ring

of voice as the wind swept through the ruined windows, or we caught the

hurrying swish and murmur of the Rhone. It was quite an excitement, in

turning over the leaves of some old volume to come upon the poems of

troubadours whose stories we had smiled or sighed over. For there was

almost always something pathetic about these bright figures of wandering

minstrels, with their fine dress, courteous manners, ardent temperament,

and too often a disillusioned and lonely end, sometimes fighting against

the hosts of Saladin, not seldom within the shadows of the cloister.

* * * * *

In thinking of this world of the troubadours, one must give one's

thoughts a longish tether and the imagination a touch of the spur, for

their journeyings were far and wide over the country, from the mountain

regions in the south-eastern districts of France to the farthest west

of Languedoc and the Dukedom of Acquitaine. There must stretch before

the mind's eye the whole beautiful region, sea-washed along its southern

boundaries, watered by splendid rivers, set with cities and ruins whose

names ring through the centuries; and away to the north the vision must

fade at its edges into sharp peaks, while vaguely beyond, on the verge of

the consciousness, must sweep back wave after wave of mountain country,

up and up in steeper and wilder masses to the towers and pinnacles of

the Alps.

But the real heart and centre of Troubadour-land is Provence, the region

east of the Rhone and south of the mountains of Dauphiny. It includes

the whole romantic hill-country on the spurs of the Maritime Alps; and

all along its shores to the east, the rocks cut clear and red into the

blue of that wondrous sea which has sung its soft and ceaseless song

through the tumult of all our civilisations and of all our dreams. And

beautiful among them has been the dream of Provence!

Much of the romance and beauty is the gift of the troubadours who taught

their countrymen--nay, all Europe--to see life with new eyes. For about

two hundred years they sang their songs; till they were silenced in the

thirteenth century by the Albigensian wars. They were a race of singers

and of lovers, for love was the principal theme and the main interest of

their lives. Their love-stories were invariably more or less unhappy, for

not only were the times disturbed and the dangers many, but the lovers

were seldom wise of heart or rich in knowledge of the art of life. And

so they were tossed on the sea of this rude age, on the sea of their own

wild jealousies and distrusts, and sorrow and disappointment generally

marked the end of the romance.

[Illustration: OUTSIDE THE CHURCH, SAINTES MARIES.

_By Joseph Pennell._]

The famous Rudel, hero of Rostand's "Princesse Lointaine" who fell in

love with the distant princess whom he had never seen, and journeyed

far over the sea to visit her, only to die in her arms almost on the

instant that he beheld her, was perhaps one of the least unfortunate of

the fraternity, for he never knew the bitterness of disillusion; never

frittered away his sentiment in little quarrels and misunderstandings,

never suffered the miseries of jealousy.

Soon the famous names began to call up to us a living personality

like that of a friend: Raimbaut de Vacqueiras, Bernart de Ventadour,

Pierre Vidal, Cadenet, Bertrand de Born, Guilhelm de Cabestaing, Pons

de Chapteuil.... And then the charming Countess of Die, the Sappho of

Provence whose voice "had the colour of Alban wine" according to her

modern biographer already quoted. The leaves of the volume were always

sharply arrested when we came upon her name.

In vain, it would appear, had she a beautiful voice and a beautiful

face, for she fell in love with that Provençal Don Juan, Count Raimbaut

d'Orange, who soon grew tired of her, as her sad songs relate.

We were delighted to come upon the following truly disconsolate canzo,

for it seemed to bring us in touch with the poor lady:--

"A chantar m'er de so qu'ieu no volria

Tant me rancur de lui cui sui amia;

Car ieu l'am mais que nuilla ren que sia:

Vas lui n'om val merces ni cortesia,

Ni ma beltatz ni mos pretz ni mos sens,

C'atressi'm sui enganad' e trahïa

Com degr'esser, s'ieu fos desavinens."

This was translated into French prose as follows:--

"Le sujet de mes chants sera pènible et douleureux. Hélas!

J'ai à me plaindre de celui dont je suis la tendre amie; je

l'aime plus que chose qui soit au monde; mais auprès de lui,

rien ne me sert, ni merci, ni courtoisie, ni ma beauté, ni

mon mérite, ni mon esprit. Je suis trompée, je suis trahie,

comme si j'avais commis quelque faute envers lui."

The Countess goes on in the same strain at some length. Raimbaut, it

appears, was very popular with the ladies of his brilliant world, but

the poetess reminds him that he ought to know who "best loves him and

is true withal." But no appeal moves him--to Barbara's great annoyance.

The account of this gentleman's hardness of heart called forth many

exclamations, as I read verse after plaintive verse. How any lady could

have set so much store on so coarse-grained and worthless a person as the

Count of Orange was difficult to understand; but as Barbara conclusively

pointed out, she had fallen in love with him for some unfathomable

reason best known to the Laughing Gods. But it was very annoying, all

that waste of emotion and suffering. We found ourselves almost as much

troubled over it as if it had happened to some friend whose infatuation

one had tried in vain to cure with arguments and pure reason.

It was a strange, emotional world that we were wandering in, and as the

books with which we were trying to find a clue to the puzzle took opposite

views of the manners and ideals of the age, it was not a little baffling.

To find our way was like trying to get out of a labyrinth. Often an author

would insist that these ardent canzos were merely conventional exercises

in the style of the day and meant nothing personal. But the theory would

not stand investigation. Hueffer, in his book on the troubadours, says

of these singers:

"Frequently they may, and in some cases we positively know they

did, mistake gracious condescension for responsive love--it was

the privilege of high-born and high-minded women to protect

and favour poetry, and to receive in return the troubadour's

homage."

[Illustration: THE CHURCH OF LES SAINTES MARIES AT NIGHT.

_By Joseph Pennell._]

The fact seems to be that there was perfect social freedom for the forming

of romantic friendship between troubadours and ladies on the foundation

of artistic sympathy, and this was the relation really aimed at and taken

for granted. It was scarcely a friendship as one now understands the

term, because the attitude of the troubadour was necessarily (according

to the theory) one of extreme homage and devotion, in which the element

of romantic love might or might not mingle. But it was modern friendship

with that devotional attitude in addition.

One of the most striking characteristics of the age is its

"young-heartedness," the quality that every true knight and lady was

expected to show. The festivals, the dancing, the prevalence of song

and gaiety were all an expression of that youth of the spirit which

belongs to certain epochs, races, and individuals, and is by no means

incompatible with a profound seriousness of thought and of outlook.

It proceeded, doubtless, from the great vividness of the life, and the

immense impetus of thought and emotion that produced and was produced

by the new ideals.

"So true it is," says John Addington Symonds, "that nothing lives and

has reality for us but what is spiritual, intellectual, self-possessed in

personality and consciousness. When the Egyptian priests said to Solon,

'You Greeks are always children,' he intended a gentle sarcasm, but he

implied a compliment; for the quality of imperishable youth belonged

to the true Hellenic spirit, and has become the heritage of every race

which partook of it."

There was a characteristic Charter issued to the "King of Youth" at

one of the many festivals or celebrations which set the whole land

of Provence dancing and rejoicing. And there was also _l'Abbaye de la

Jeunesse_, a sort of club which every town, big and little, is said to

have possessed, the members choosing a chief of the group annually, to

lead their gay processions and inspire their songs and festivals.

One other quaint and humane institution which this singular country

boasted was the "Hospice des Mal-Mariés," but except the arresting title

nothing seems to have survived in the uncertain records.

The quality of young-heartedness and that other beautiful attribute that

the French call "politesse du coeur" belonged essentially to this land

and epoch.

Of course among the golden threads some very black ones are interwoven:

traits of horrible treachery and barbarity standing out violently

amidst the texture of beauty that the finer spirits were weaving for

the ennobling of all human life; but these traits were survivals of a

former set of traditions and of the instincts which these had created.

"Quand l'Auroro, fourrado en raubo di sati

Desparvonillo, san brut, las portos del mati."[9]

These lines might well describe the historical moment of the new birth.

Love was then held to be "the ultimate and highest principle of all

virtue, of all moral merit, of all glory," and it produced--that is

when it was of the genuine kind demanded by chivalry--a state of "happy

exaltation of the sentiment and charm of life." This age seems to have

invented--or reinvented--the "joie de vivre" and the "joy of love."

It is remarkable that the language of the troubadours had two forms of

the word _joy_: _joi_ and _joia_; _joi_ being used for an expansive and

energetic state of happiness, _joia_ for the passive, reposeful form of

the sentiment.

While the troubadours were carrying everything before them in Provence

and Italy, the minnesingers were plying their romantic trade in Germany;

that is late in the twelfth century; but the Gay Science had spread from

Provence to the other countries, the troubadours visiting foreign Courts

and giving lessons in their art.

This outburst of poetry is described by M. Fauriel as

"the result of a general or energetic movement in favour of

social restoration, of an intense enthusiasm of humanity

reacting on every side against the oppression and the

barbarity of the epoch. The same sentiment ... impelled them

to seek and to find a new type and new effects in the other

arts, particularly in architecture. Thence arose palaces and

churches...."

It is not a little strange and satisfying to realise that the strong wave

of sentiment of which one is conscious in all great architecture was in

the Middle Ages the same that produced the magnificent flight heavenwards

of the human imagination in all that regarded life, its problems and its

relationships. M. Fauriel, on the subject of the freedom of chivalrous

love, writes:--

"The exaltation of desire, of hope, of self-sacrifice by which

love manifests itself and in which it principally consists,

could not have any moral merit nor could it become a real

incentive to noble actions except on certain conditions. It

was to be perfectly spontaneous, receive no law except its

own, and could only exist for a single object."

"A woman," he continues, "could only feel her ascendancy and dignity,

as a moral being, in relations where everything on her part was a gift,

a voluntary favour, and not in relations where she had nothing to refuse."

As an example of the darker threads we may take the career of Guilhelm

de Cabestaing, the unfortunate author of the famous canzo, a fragment

of which is printed at the head of the chapter. He is one of the most

prominent figures in troubadour history. He celebrated the charms of

Berengaria des Baux, but his real love was for the wife of the Count of

Rousillon, a ferocious person who suspected the troubadour's passion and

set to work to entrap him by questions as to the state of his heart.

Guilhelm, seeing his danger, admitted that he was seriously in love,

but with the wife of another seigneur.

"Ah!" said the Count, pretending great sympathy, "I will help you in

your suit; we will go at once to the castle of the fair lady."

Guilhelm had reluctantly to go, dreading the worst; but the lady,

realising the situation, played up to the part, acknowledging her love

for Guilhelm, and the Count's suspicions were thus allayed, but only

to be aroused again by the canzo ("lou douz cossire") which Sermonda

asked her lover to write to assure her that his faithlessness was only

apparent. The gruesome end of the story, the treacherous slaying of the

troubadour, the serving up of the heart at table to the wife, and her

suicide on hearing the ghastly truth, illustrates too well the darker

side of the life of the epoch.

[Illustration: FARM IN PROVENCE.

_By Joseph Pennell._]

Pons de Chapteuil was a troubadour whose story greatly interested us,

partly because of the romantic idea of the two mountain-set castles, one

the home of Pons, at Chapteuil, near Le Puy, the other that of Alazais of

Mercoeur, about twenty-five miles distant, "as one would measure across

the mountains of Auvergne," says Justin Smith in his charming account

of the story.

"Really it seems a little strange and eerie," he exclaims, "the romance

between these two castles in the sky--a little like a love-affair between

the Jungfrau and the Finsteraarhorn."

The story was tender and bright and sad, as love-stories are apt to be,

and very characteristic of the time. First the admiration and sympathy and

the necessary adoration, then the taking fire of two generous natures;

for this time the hero of romance is one to claim our admiration as a

noble follower of the laws of chivalry.

"It was his pleasure to defend the weak of every sort, to be

brave, true, faithful, liberal, and always to stand for the

right."

Alazais had been married, probably by her father or her feudal over-lord,

to Count Ozil de Mercoeur, for whom she made no pretence of any feeling,

not even of esteem. It was evidently a _mariage de convenance_, as most

marriages were in those days, and the love of the Countess of Ozil for

her neighbour across the mountains at least did not rob the Count of

her affections, since he had never possessed or apparently desired them.

"In essential womanliness," says Justin Smith, "and in the graceful arts

of social intercourse, we may think of her as the equal of any lady we

have met.... Courtliness was her abiding principle, the true courtliness

which consisted in ... graceful speech, in avoiding all that could

annoy others, and in doing and saying everything that could make one

loved." The mutual attraction of these two, the same writer continues,

"penetrated by the fire of two ardent natures, came to be love, as the

rich flow of the grape, changing its quality insensibly, acquires in

time the sparkle, the bouquet, and the passion that make it wine."

Taking into consideration the times in which they lived, one would

suppose that fortune favoured these two, and that for once one should

have a nice cheerful story to console us for the many sad ones.

But no; Pons must needs harbour doubts of the sincerity of Alazais, and

so he determined to test her by the time-honoured device of exciting

jealousy. He therefore proceeded to devote himself ostentatiously to

another lady, expecting a "burst of passionate anger" from Alazais.

But that lady, one is glad to learn, disdained reproaches and kept a

dignified silence. After all, she seems to have argued, Pons was not

bound to devote himself to her or to continue to do so if he were tired

of it.

So Pons, much astonished and chagrined, "became uneasy," as we are told,

"quitted the lady of Roussillon, and returned to pray for pardon." But

Alazais apparently thought that trying experiments upon a person one

professes to love was somewhat inconsequent, and she intimated that she

preferred not to receive Pons. He sent her a song, explaining his conduct.

"Ah, if you ask what urged me to depart," it begins (although, in fact,

Alazais had never asked anything of the kind, much to the troubadour's

annoyance)--

"'Twas not inconstancy nor fickleness;

It was a wish conceived of love's excess,

To try the test of absence on your heart.

How grieved I, how regretted, when to me

That you were touched nor word nor token proved!

But think not that you're free although unmov'd:

From you I cannot, will not severed be!"

But Alazais replied never a word. His influence over her seemed to

have been entirely lost. Pons then "employed three ladies to plead his

cause," and they entered so warmly into the undertaking that finally they

succeeded. So Pons made another song, very joyous this time, swearing

that "henceforth he will keep strictly to the path of love, without

deviating a hair's-breadth."

But in the midst of this new-found happiness Alazais falls ill and dies.

Barbara was much aggrieved. I scarcely liked to read her the end: how

Pons wrote a piercing lament, saying he would close his heart and rend

his strings, and

"Die tuneless and alone,"

a resolve which he actually carried out. He became a member of one of

the military brotherhoods of the day, and died fighting in the Third

Crusade.

This story, however, sad as it is, is among the most attractive of the

troubadour romances, because the characters of Pons and Alazais were,

on the whole, a near approach to the chivalric standard for men and women.

"When Pons" (to quote Justin Smith once more) "rode out of the lists,

bearing his lady's glove in triumph, he felt a joy quite fresh in the

experience of mankind."

This is, after all, a big fact, and it disposes once and for ever of

the depressing doctrine that there is nothing new under the sun. If the

twelfth century produced a new and beautiful fact in human history, so

can the twentieth.

Romantic Cities of Provence · 第 7 / 24 章