Circumnavigating the Island.--Batticaloa, Capital of the
Eastern Province.--Rice Culture.--Fish Shooting.--Point
Pedro.--Jaffna.--Northern Province.--Oriental Bazaars.--Milk
ignored.--The Clear Sea and White, Sandy Bottom.--American
Missionaries.--A Medical Bureau.--Self-Respect a Lost
Virtue.--Snake Temples.--Ramisseram.--Adam's Bridge.--A Huge
Hindu Temple.--Island of Manaar.--Aripo.--The Port of
Negombo.--Tamil Coolies.--Homeward Bound.--A Farewell View.
No one on visiting Ceylon, who can possibly spare the necessary time,
should fail to circumnavigate the island. Since 1889, a number of
lighthouses have been erected from Colombo round the entire southern
coast, adding a degree of security to navigation which was much
needed. These beacon stars are so numerous as to be almost within
sight of one another. That at Dondra Head stands one hundred and
seventy feet above sea level. The vessels which make this circuit stop
at each of the large ports to discharge and take on cargo, thus
enabling the traveler to land and get a very good general idea of each
place with its near surroundings. If the visitor desires to do so, he
can remain at any of these places until the boat comes again in its
regular course, when the journey may be resumed. It is well to stop at
Point Pedro and at Jaffna in this way, as they are neighborhoods of
more than ordinary interest, both present and historic. We should
advise a few days' delay also at Ramisseram, a part of the time being
divided between this place and the large island of Manaar, which is
quite accessible.
The pleasantest way to accomplish this circuit is to take the boat at
Point de Galle, the first place at which it is desirable to land being
Batticaloa, the capital of the eastern province. There is a bar at the
mouth of this harbor which is a serious impediment to making an
entrance into the little bay. When the sea breeze is strong, and
during the southeast monsoon, a line of breakers is created upon the
shoal, and no attempt is made to land. This is a great rice-raising
region, which gets its artificial water supply from two extensive
neighboring lakes or tanks. Twenty-five thousand acres of land may be
seen hereabouts under rice cultivation, yielding two crops per annum.
The Portuguese built a substantial stone fort at Batticaloa, which was
afterwards added to and strengthened by the Dutch, and latterly still
further improved by the English. There is plenty of wild game in this
region, including the huge elephant, though this animal is more
numerous in the central provinces and at the north. Here one has a
chance, upon a still night, of hearing the vocal performance of the
singing fishes, and also of witnessing the native sport of shooting
fish. The Tamils go out in boats just offshore, carrying lighted
torches, the fire of which attracts the curiosity of the fishes,
bringing them to the surface, when the boatmen shoot them with bows
and short arrows. To the latter a thin, light string is attached, by
which the fishes are promptly secured. From here the packet boat goes
north to Trincomalee, already described, thence to Point Pedro, the
extreme northern part of Ceylon,--Punta das Pedras, the "rocky cape."
We have said that this is the extreme northern point of Ceylon, but
let us qualify the remark. Though it is generally so considered, Point
Palmyra, a promontory situated a few miles to the westward, is really
still farther north. The humble Tamil women of this district are fine
upright figures in their simple costume, which consists of a long fold
of cotton cloth enveloping the body below the waist and thrown
carelessly over the left shoulder, leaving the right arm and bust
free. Women who from girlhood always carry burdens upon their heads
never fail to have an upright and stately carriage. As before
intimated, the Tamil women are far handsomer in features than the
Singhalese race. The Jaffna peninsula has been peopled by the Tamil
race for two thousand years or more.
Point Pedro is a small town, and the harbor does not deserve the name,
being only an open roadstead sheltered by a coral reef, where a number
of vessels of moderate size are nearly always to be seen. Its commerce
is limited to the export of tobacco, cocoanut oil, and cabinet woods.
The trade is almost entirely with continental India, from whence rice
is largely imported. Some cattle, sheep, and elephants are also
shipped from here to southern India, the government realizing a
royalty upon each of the last-named animals exported.
Jaffna is over two hundred miles from Colombo by land, and is peopled
mostly by Tamils, who have a record connected with their settlement
here reaching back for many centuries. The population of the entire
peninsula is recorded as being about two hundred thousand, to meet
whose spiritual wants there are said to be three hundred Hindu temples
in this northern province. The peninsula presents one uniform level,
and is unbroken by a single hill, scarcely varied, in fact, by an
undulation of more than a very few feet. This dead level renders the
country unfit for rice culture, as it prevents the advantageous flow
of an artificial supply of water. By much labor this difficulty is
partially overcome, and considerable rice is grown in various parts of
the district, but much more is imported. The best sheep in Ceylon are
raised in this part of the island; they have long hair in place of
wool, and to the uninitiated seem more like goats than sheep.
The Dutch left the impress of their residence here in the
characteristic style of the architecture,--low, substantial,
broad-spread stone buildings, which still remain. These homes are
detached, and surrounded by garden plots containing thrifty fruit
trees and charming flowers, supplemented by graceful creeping and
flowering vines upon the dark gray old walls of the dwellings. The
streets of the town are wide and regular, shaded by an abundance of
handsome tulip-trees. There are at least forty thousand people living
in and immediately around Jaffna. It has a certain oriental look,
especially in the quarters where the native bazaars are situated,
thronged by copper-colored men and women. This region is well wooded,
the predominating tree being the palmyra palm.
The dry grains, such as millet and the like, are much cultivated in
the north, while at the south the entire farming population seem to
devote their energy to the raising of rice. The soil throughout the
Jaffna peninsula is very light, requiring much careful culture in
order to produce satisfactory results. It was long before the
necessity of using fertilizers upon the soil was realized in this
region, but when the plan was once adopted and its importance thus
demonstrated, it was henceforth employed systematically. In the
neighborhood of populous centres in the island, north and south, the
natives milk their cows to supply a certain demand confined to
Europeans mostly, but do not themselves use milk to any great extent.
The calves have the benefit of this abstinence on the part of the
farmers. It is the same in China, where the people at large never use
milk. In this Jaffna district, goats' milk is made into excellent
cheese.
All along the shore in this neighborhood the bottom of the sea is
formed of pure white sand, and is as level as a parlor floor, while
the water is so clear that any object is distinctly seen below its
surface. One may behold a sort of Neptune's Garden at many points,
similar to, but not quite equaling, that described at Point de Galle.
The eye is delighted by bright-hued anemones, as large as a
cauliflower, together with strange fishes in vivid colors, extensive
coral, star-fish in blue and scarlet, and busy, smoky-groves of green
crabs in search of their marine food. Such spots form a sort of
museum, only Nature does these things with a royal hand, and not in a
penny-wise, showman fashion.
A repulsive-looking creature which is made a source of profit abounds
on this shore,--a flat slug, five or six inches long. Next to the
edible bird's nests, it is considered to be one of the greatest
luxuries in their country. They are found below the surface of the
water, at a depth varying from one to five fathoms, and the collection
of them forms a considerable occupation on the northwest coast. The
natives do not appreciate these slugs. They are cured and exported
solely by a small colony of Chinese, who have settled in this
neighborhood for the purpose, and who find ample support in the
occupation.
Jaffna is a great centre of American missionary work, and is also the
see of a Roman Catholic bishop. The American mission was begun here as
early as 1816, and has gone onward ever since, increasing in its
schools, chapels, and the number of instructors. An excellent work
consummated here, in connection with the American mission, is the
establishment of a Medical Bureau. The mission has long needed such an
aid in its own behalf, and its services are also freely extended to
the native population. Such practical benefit as must accrue to the
people at large will do more to abolish "devil-dancing" and other
absurdities, intended to exorcise evil spirits from the bodies of
invalids, than any amount of reasoning with the poor, ignorant
creatures. Within the old fort is the ancient Dutch Presbyterian
church, and facing the esplanade are the Anglican and Wesleyan
churches.
One sees comparatively few Singhalese proper in this region, or in
fact anywhere north of the central province. The habits of the common
people of the Jaffna peninsula are represented to be of a highly
objectionable character, which does not argue well for the
long-established missionaries who have such sway here. Self-respect is
said to be a forgotten virtue with both sexes of the Tamil race, as
well as with the other mixed nationalities. These people seem to be
born with strange proclivities in their blood, and there is certainly
very little improvement to be observed in their condition as regards
the influence of Christianity upon their daily lives.
In olden times, as already intimated, Ceylon was known in the East by the
name of Naga-dwipa,--"Snake Isle,"--and it would seem not without good
reason, for until quite lately there was a snake-temple on the island of
Naiwativoe, which lies just off the shore, west of Jaffna, where many
serpents were nourished and cared for, including a number of deadly cobras,
by an organized corps of priests. There is, or was very lately, a
cobra-temple upon what is known as the Twin Isle, twenty miles further
south, and eastward of Ramisseram. It is therefore plain enough that there
were once plenty of serpent-worshiping tribes in various parts of Ceylon.
We know that the worship of the snake is a very ancient creed.
Mexicans, Egyptians, Hindus, Babylonians, and Buddhists have been
devotees to this idea. All stories or legends of the creation contain
some reference to the serpent, which also, according to Biblical lore,
played its part in the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of
Eden.
We have failed to mention heretofore that the remains of certain
Druidical circles of stone are occasionally found in both the northern
and southern portions of Ceylon, indicating that the Druidical form of
worship, which is supposed to be that of the Phoenicians, must have
once prevailed upon this island. These tokens belong to a period a
thousand years prior to the founding of the "buried cities" which we
have described.
On leaving Jaffna, the coasting steamer steers southward through the
Gulf of Manaar, following the Paumben Channel, past Adam's Bridge. A
call is made at the "holy" island of Ramisseram, where a visit may be
made to the great Hindu temple situated on the east end of the island.
Ramisseram is fourteen miles long by about five in width. The
dimensions of the temple upon the ground are eight hundred and
sixty-eight feet by six hundred and seventy-two in width, far
exceeding any other shrine or building in the island of Ceylon. Like
the temples of Tanjore, Madura, and Trichinopoly in continental India,
it is massive and tawdry, but still is the annual resort of hosts of
devout pilgrims from vast distances, who have impoverished themselves,
probably, to perform this pilgrimage. They expect by such an
exhibition of reverence to be freed from all sin with the punishment
it entails, and to fully merit Paradise. The ceiling of the great
temple consists of vast masses of granite slabs supported by carved
stone pillars twelve feet high, each of which is a monolith. This
Hindu temple of Ramisseram is unique; as to its age, it is between
four and five hundred years old. The fables one hears relating to this
shrine are legion, all thoroughly tinctured with gross absurdities;
still, the place is well worth a visit, and careful study.
The island of Manaar, close at hand, off the west coast, and from
which Adam's Bridge extends towards the continent of India, is
eighteen miles long, and but three or four wide. There is nothing here
to invite a visit from the casual traveler. The soil is sandy and
poorly adapted to agriculture. It has, however, large groves of
cocoanut and palmyra palms, with very good pasturage. Goats and cattle
are bred here to a considerable extent, and a peculiar hard cheese is
an article of export. The island is a hundred and forty miles by water
from Colombo. There is a fort at the town of Manaar, situated on the
southeastern extremity of the island. The harbor is too shallow to
admit vessels drawing over eight or ten feet of water, but is
completely sheltered. There are some twenty villages on this
comparatively barren slip of land, but the people seem to be thrifty
and healthy. There is no malaria here. It is a Roman Catholic centre,
and most of the people are of that faith.
Again taking the steam packet, we proceed southward by Aripo, the
famous pearl-fishing grounds of the Gulf of Manaar, about one hundred
and fifty miles from the capital. If we pass near enough to the west
coast of the island to observe the shore in this vicinity, it will be
found that nothing can exceed the desolation which it presents. It is
barren, low, and sandy, with here and there a scrubby jungle and an
occasional reach of stunted herbage. It is difficult to realize that
such a locality can be the source of wealth of any sort, and
particularly that it is the natal place of that loveliest and purest
of gems, the oriental pearl.
Still sailing southward, we find ourselves in due time opposite
Negombo, seven or eight leagues north of Colombo. This little seaport
is the outlet to a fine agricultural country, where cattle and garden
products are raised for the support of the capital, with which it has
an inland water connection. This place is famous for its fruit
gardens,--exotic fruits, originally introduced from Java and the
Malacca peninsula. It is one of the most rural spots in the island,
famous for its cinnamon estates. The traveler's attention is sure to
be called to a noble specimen of the banian-tree at this attractive
seaside place, and also to an old and most curious, many-headed
cocoanut-tree. The town has a fine esplanade bordering the sea, and a
very comfortable rest-house for the stranger. After passing the Bight
of Negombo, we soon enter the harbor of Colombo, and as we do so, an
English mail steam packet is passed whose decks are crowded with
coolies bound for Tuticorin, a port two hundred miles away, across the
Gulf of Manaar. The planters of Ceylon import these dusky laborers
from southern India at harvest time, when the tea and coffee fields
yield their annual product. The poor creatures are very glad to earn a
small sum of money in this service, wherewith to eke out their
necessary home expenses. When the Ceylon harvest is over, they return
to their humble homes in this manner, the planters paying for their
transportation both ways.
From our standpoint on the bridge of the coasting steamer, we
overlook the forward deck of the mail packet, where the homeward bound
coolies form strangely picturesque groups in their rags and nakedness,
mingled with occasional bits of highly colored clothing. A white
turban, a red fez, a bandana kerchief bound about a woman's head,
whose infant is lashed to her back in sleepy unconsciousness, all
combine to produce a striking kaleidoscopic effect.
A southwest monsoon is coming on, and there will presently be a fierce
downpour of rain. The coolies will have but one night to pass on the
troubled sea, but it will be for them a wretched one,--seasick,
ill-fed, and poorly sheltered creatures. Their small annual pittance
is insignificant compensation for what they have to perform and what
they endure. There are two or three hundred of them, herded like
cattle; there is no cabin,--deck passage is all that is paid for; and
such is considered quite good enough accommodations for these very
humble Tamils. There is said to be compensation in the life of every
living being, but it is difficult to point out wherein the principle
applies to these low caste Indians.
* * * * *
Before leaving Colombo, an earnest desire possessed the author to see
the town from the bay, under the charm imparted by an equatorial moon
and starlight. A couple of native oarsmen and a comfortable boat
afforded the means of gratifying this wish, all the stronger from the
fresh memory of a like experience, not long ago, off the historic
island of Malta. The view of Colombo, it must be acknowledged, was a
disappointment. It is too thickly embowered with palms to form a
pleasing picture of itself: but ah, the tropical night, luxurious and
calm, with its wonderful brilliancy above, and its dark, mysterious
shadows below! The molten silver on which we idly floated had just
ripple sufficient to double its reflective power, lit by an occasional
flash of phosphorescence when the oars were dipped. The hoarse murmur
of the outside sea beating against the stout breakwater; the head and
stern lights of the shipping at anchor, distributed here and there;
the flashing eye of fire from the lighthouse, casting its long golden
wake seaward; the dancing lamps on the low-lying shore of the
Singhalese capital, with the soft strains of music from an English
bungalow in the half-moon bend of the beach,--all together formed a
delightful picture, leaving a typical scene deeply engraved on the
memory.
Land, sea, and star-illumined sky, everything charmingly bright with
the tender kiss of moonlight, how absolutely perfect was our farewell
vision of this "utmost" Indian isle.
* * * * *
By Maturin M. Ballou.
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