X. From Stalheim to Eida--The Waterfall of
Skjerve Fos--The Mighty Hardanger Fjord 80
XI. The Buarbrae and Folgefonden Glaciers--Cataracts
and Mountain Tarns--Odda to Horre 89
XII. Over the Lonely Haukeli Fjeld--Witches and
Pixies, and Maidens Milking Goats 96
XIII. Descending from the Fjelde--The Telemarken
Fjords--The Arctic Twilight 106
XIV. Kristiania to Stockholm--A Wedding Party--Differing
Norsk and Swede 118
XV. Stockholm the Venice of the North--Life and
Color of the Swedish Capital--Manners of
the People and their King 128
XVI. How We Entered Russia--The Passport System--Difficult
to Get Into Russia and More Difficult
to Get Out 136
XVII. St. Petersburg--The Great Wealth of the Few--The
Bitter Poverty of the Many--Conditions
Similar to Those Preceding the French
Revolution 148
XVIII. En Route to Moscow--Under Military Guard--Suspected
of Designs on Life of the Czar 158
XIX. Our Arrival at Moscow--Splendor and
Squalor--Enlightenment and Superstition--Russia
Asiatic Rather Than European 167
XX. The Splendid Pageant of the Russian Mass--The
Separateness of Russian Religious Feeling
From Modern Thought--Russia Mediaeval and Pagan 180
XXI. The First Snows--Moscow to Warsaw--Fat
Farm Lands and Frightful Poverty of the
Mujiks Who Own them and Till them--I Recover
My Passport 189
XXII. The Slav and the Jew--The Slav's Envy and
Jealousy of the Jew 201
XXIII. Across Germany and Holland to England--A
Hamburg Wein Stube--The "Simple Fisher-Folk"
of Maarken--Two Gulden at Den Haag 214
XXIV. Map of North Europe.
Map of Scandinavia and Baltic Russia, in profile.