"Chut! ... chut!" ... was at this moment uttered by more than one

voice near us: "le voilà!" I glanced my eye towards the pulpit, but it

was still empty; and on looking round me, I perceived that all eyes

were turned in the direction of a small door in the north aisle,

almost immediately behind us. "Il est entré là!" said a young woman

near us, in a tone that seemed to indicate a feeling deeper than

respect, and, in truth, not far removed from adoration. Her eyes were

still earnestly fixed upon the door, and continued to be so, as well

as those of many others, till it reopened and a slight young man in

the dress of a priest prepared for the _chaire_ appeared at it. A

verger made way for him through the crowd, which, thick and closely

wedged as it was, fell back on each side of him, as he proceeded to

the pulpit, with much more docility than I ever saw produced by the

clearing a passage through the intervention of a troop of horse.

Silence the most profound accompanied his progress; I never witnessed

more striking demonstrations of respect: and yet it is said that

three-fourths of Paris believe this man to be a hypocrite.

As soon as he had reached the pulpit, and while preparing himself by

silent prayer for the duty he was about to perform, a movement became

perceptible at the upper part of the choir; and presently the

archbishop and his splendid retinue of clergy were seen moving in a

body towards that part of the nave which is immediately in front of

the preacher. On arriving at the space reserved for them, each

noiselessly dropped into his allotted seat according to his place and

dignity, while the whole congregation respectfully stood to watch the

ceremony, and seemed to

"Admirer un si bel ordre, et reconnaître l'église."

It is easier to describe to you everything which preceded the sermon,

than the sermon itself. This was such a rush of words, such a burst

and pouring out of passionate declamation, that even before I had

heard enough to judge of the matter, I felt disposed to prejudge the

preacher, and to suspect that his discourse would have more of the

flourish and furbelow of human rhetoric than of the simplicity of

divine truth in it.

His violent action, too, disgusted me exceedingly. The rapid and

incessant movement of his hands, sometimes of one, sometimes of both,

more resembled that of the wings of a humming-bird than anything else

I can remember: but the _hum_ proceeded from the admiring

congregation. At every pause he made, and like the claptraps of a bad

actor, they were frequent, and evidently faits exprès: a little gentle

laudatory murmur ran through the crowd.

I remember reading somewhere of a priest nobly born, and so anxious to

keep his flock in their proper place, that they might not come

"between the wind and his nobility," that his constant address to them

when preaching was, "Canaille Chrétienne!" This was bad--very bad,

certainly; but I protest, I doubt if the Abbé Lacordaire's manner of

addressing his congregation as "Messieurs" was much less unlike the

fitting tone of a Christian pastor. This mundane apostrophe was

continually repeated throughout the whole discourse, and, I dare say,

had its share in producing the disagreeable effect I experienced from

his eloquence. I cannot remember having ever heard a preacher I less

liked, reverenced, and admired, than this new Parisian saint. He made

very pointed allusions to the reviving state of the Roman Catholic

Church in Ireland, and anathematized pretty cordially all such as

should oppose it.

In describing the two hours' prologue to the mass, I forgot to mention

that many young men--not in the reserved places of the centre aisle,

but sitting near us, beguiled the tedious interval by reading. Some of

the volumes they held had the appearance of novels from a circulating

library, and others were evidently collections of songs, probably less

spiritual than _spirituels_.

The whole exhibition certainly showed me a new page in the history of

_Paris as it is_, and I therefore do not regret the four hours it cost

me: but once is enough--I certainly will never go to hear the Abbé

Lacordaire again.

LETTER XLVI.

La Tour de Nesle.

It is, I believe, nearly two years ago since the very extraordinary

drama called "La Tour de Nesle" was sent me to read, as a specimen of

the outrageous school of dramatic extravagance which had taken

possession of all the theatres in Paris; but I certainly did not

expect that it would keep its place as a favourite spectacle with the

people of this great and enlightened capital long enough for me to see

it, at this distance of time, still played before a very crowded

audience.

That this is a national disgrace, is most certain: but the fault is

less attributable to the want of good taste, than to the lamentable

blunder which permits every species of vice and abomination to be

enacted before the eyes of the people, without any restraint or check

whatever, under the notion that they are thereby permitted to enjoy a

desirable privilege and a noble freedom. Yet in this same country it

is illegal to sell a deleterious drug! There is no logic in this.

It is however an undeniable fact, as I think I have before stated,

that the best class of Parisian society protest against this

disgusting license, and avoid--upon principle loudly proclaimed and

avowed--either reading or seeing acted these detestable compositions.

Thus, though the crowded audiences constantly assembled whenever they

are brought forward prove but too clearly that such persons form but a

small minority, their opinion is nevertheless sufficient, or ought to

be so, to save the country from the disgrace of admitting that such

things are good.

We seem to pique ourselves greatly on the superiority of our taste in

these matters; but let us pique ourselves rather on our theatrical

censorship. Should the clamours and shoutings of misrule lead to the

abolition of this salutary restraint, the consequences would, I fear,

be such as very soon to rob us of our present privilege of abusing our

neighbours on this point.

While things do remain as they are, however, we may, I think, smile a

little at such a judgment as Monsieur de Saintfoix passes upon our

theatrical compositions, when comparing them to those of France.

"Les actions de nos tragédies," says he, "sont pathétiques et

terribles; celles des tragédies angloises sont atroces. On y met sous

les yeux du spectateur les objets les plus horribles; un mari qui

discourt avec sa femme, qui la caresse et l'étrangle."

Might one not think that the writer of this passage had just arrived

from witnessing the famous scene in the "Monomane," only he had

mistaken it for English? But he goes on--

"Une fille toute sanglante...." (Triboulet's daughter Blanche, for

instance.)--"Après l'avoir violée...."

He then proceeds to reason upon the subject, and justly enough, I

think--only we should read England for France, and France for England.

"Il n'est pas douteux que les arts agréables ne réussissent chez un

peuple qu'autant qu'ils en prennent le génie, et qu'un auteur

dramatique ne sauroit espérer de plaire si les objets et les images

qu'il présente ne sont pas analogues au caractère, au naturel, et au

goût de la nation: on pourroit donc conclure de la différence des deux

théâtres, que l'âme d'un ANGLAIS est sombre, féroce, sanguinaire; et

que celle d'un FRANÇAIS est vive, impatiente, emportée, mais généreuse

même dans sa haine; idolatrant l'honneur"--(just like Buridan in this

same drama of the Tour de Nesle--this popular production of _la Jeune

France_--_la France régénérée_)--"idolatrant l'honneur, et ne cessant

jamais de l'apercevoir, malgré le trouble et toute la violence des

passions."

Though it is impossible to read this passage without a smile, at a

time when it is so easy for the English to turn the tables against

this patriotic author, one must sigh too, while reflecting on the

lamentable change which has taken place in the moral feeling of

revolutionised France since the period at which it was written.

What would Saintfoix say to the notion that Victor Hugo had "heaved

the ground from beneath the feet of Corneille and Racine"? The

question, however, is answered by a short sentence in his "Essais

Historiques," where he thus expresses himself:--

"Je croirois que la décadence de notre nation seroit prochaine, si les

hommes de quarante ans n'y regardoient pas CORNEILLE comme le plus

grand génie qui ait jamais été."

If the spirit of the historian were to revisit the earth, and float

over the heads of a party of Parisian critics while pronouncing

sentence on his favourite author, he might probably return to the

shades unharmed, for he would only hear "Rococo! Rococo! Rococo!"

uttered as by acclamation; and unskilled to comprehend the new-born

eloquence, he would doubtless interpret it as a _refrain_ to express

in one pithy word all reverence, admiration, and delight.

But to return to "La Tour de Nesle." The story is taken from a passage

in Brantôme's history "des Femmes Galantes," where he says, "qu'une

reine de France"--whom however he does not name, but who is said to

have been Marguérite de Bourgogne, wife of Louis Dix--"se tenoit là (à

la Tour de Nesle) d'ordinaire, laquelle fesant le guet aux passans, et

ceux qui lui revenoient et agréoient le plus, de quelque sorte de gens

que ce fussent, les fesoit appeler et venir à soy, et après ... les

fesoit précipiter du haut de la tour en bas, en l'eau, et les fesoit

noyer. Je ne veux pas," he continues, "assurer que cela soit vrai,

mais le vulgaire, au moins la plupart de Paris, l'affirme, et n'y a si

commun qu'en lui montrant la tour seulement, et en l'interrogeant, que

de lui-même ne le die."

This story one might imagine was horrible and disgusting enough; but

MM. Gaillardet et ***** (it is thus the authors announce themselves)

thought otherwise, and accordingly they have introduced her majesty's

sisters, the ladies Jeanne and Blanche of Burgundy, who were both

likewise married to sons of Philippe-le-Bel, the brothers of Louis

Dix, to share her nocturnal orgies. These "imaginative and powerful"

scenic historians also, according to the fashion of the day among the

theatrical writers of France, add incest to increase the interest of

the drama.

This is enough, and too much, as to the plot; and for the execution of

it by the authors, I can only say that it is about equal in literary

merit to the translations of an Italian opera handed about at the

Haymarket. It is in prose--and, to my judgment, very vulgar prose; yet

it is not only constantly acted, but I am assured that the sale of it

has been prodigiously great, and still continues to be so.

That a fearful and even hateful story, dressed up in all the

attractive charm of majestic poetry, and redeemed in some sort by the

noble sentiments of the personages brought into the scenes of which it

might be the foundation--that a drama so formed might captivate the

imagination even while it revolted the feelings, is very possible,

very natural, and nowise disgraceful either to the poet, or to those

whom his talent may lead captive. The classic tragedies which long

served as models to France abound in fables of this description.

Alfieri, too, has made use of such, following with a poet's wing the

steady onward flight of remorseless destiny, yet still sublime in

pathos and in dignity, though appalling in horror. In like manner, the

great French dramatists have triumphed by the power of their genius,

both over the disgust inspired by these awful classic mysteries, and

the unbending strictness of the laws which their antique models

enforced for their composition.

If we may herein deem the taste to have been faulty, the grace, the

majesty, the unswerving dignity of the tragic march throughout the

whole action--the lofty sentiments, the bursts of noble passion, and

the fine drapery of stately verse in which the whole was clothed, must

nevertheless raise our admiration to a degree that may perhaps almost

compete with what we feel for the enchanting wildness and unshackled

nature of our native dramas.

But what can we think of those who, having ransacked the pages of

history to discover whatever was most revolting to the human soul,

should sit down to arrange it in action, detailed at full length, with

every hateful circumstance exaggerated and brought out to view for the

purpose of tickling the curiosity of his countrymen and countrywomen,

and by that means beguiling them into the contemplation of scenes that

Virtue would turn from with loathing, and before which Innocence must

perish as she gazes? No gleam of goodness throughout the whole for the

heart to cling to,--no thought of remorseful penitence,--no spark of

noble feeling; nothing but vice,--low, grovelling, brutal vice,--from

the moment the curtain rises to display the obscene spectacle, to that

which sees it fall between the fictitious infamy on one side, and the

real impurity left on the other!

As I looked on upon the hideous scene, and remembered the classic

horrors of the Greek tragedians, and of the mighty imitators who have

followed them, I could not help thinking that the performance of MM.

Gaillardet et ***** was exceedingly like that of a monkey mimicking

the operations of a man. He gets hold of the same tools, but turns the

edges the wrong way; and instead of raising a majestic fabric in

honour of human genius, he rolls the materials in mud, begrimes his

own paws in the slimy cement, and then claws hold of every unwary

passenger who comes within his reach, and bespatters him with the

rubbish he has brought together. Such monkeys should be chained, or

they will do much mischief.

It is hardly possible that such dramas as the "Tour de Nesle" can be

composed with the intention of producing a great tragic effect; which

is surely the only reason which can justify bringing sin and misery

before the eyes of an audience. There is in almost every human heart a

strange love for scenes of terror and of woe. We love to have our

sympathies awakened--our deepest feelings roused; we love to study in

the magic mirror of the scene what we ourselves might feel did such

awful visitations come upon us; and there is an unspeakable interest

inspired by looking on, and fancying that were it so with us, we might

so act, so feel, so suffer, and so die. But is there in any land a

wretch so lost, so vile, as to be capable of feeling sympathy with any

sentiment or thought expressed throughout the whole progress of this

"Tour de Nesle"? God forbid!

I have heard of poets who have written under the inspiration of brandy

and laudanum--the exhalations from which are certainly not likely to

form themselves into images of distinctness or beauty; but the

inspiration that dictated the "Tour de Nesle" must have been something

viler still, though not less powerful. It must, I think, have been the

cruel calculation of how many dirty francs might be expressed from the

pockets of the idle, by a spectacle new from its depth of atrocity,

and attractive from its newness.

But, setting aside for a moment the sin and the scandal of producing

on a public stage such a being as the woman to whom MM. Gaillardet et

***** have chosen to give the name of Marguérite de Bourgogne, it is

an object of some curiosity to examine the literary merits of a piece

which, both on the stage and in the study, has been received by so

many thousands--perhaps millions--of individuals belonging to "_la

grande nation_" as a work deserving their patronage and support--or at

least as deserving their attention and attendance for years; years,

too, of hourly progressive intellect--years during which the march of

mind has outdone all former marches of human intelligence--years

during which Young France has been labouring to throw off her ancient

coat of worn-out rococoism, and to clothe herself in new-fledged

brightness. During these years she has laid on one shelf her

once-venerated Corneille,--on another, her almost worshipped Racine.

Molière is named but as a fine antique; and Voltaire himself, spite of

his strong claims upon their revolutionary affections, can hardly be

forgiven for having said of the two whom Victor Hugo is declared to

have overthrown, that "Ces hommes enseignèrent à la nation, à penser,

à sentir, à s'exprimer; leurs auditeurs, instruits par eux seuls,

devinrent enfin des juges sévères pour eux mêmes qui les avaient

éclairés." Let any one whose reason is not totally overthrown by the

fever and delirium of innovation read the "Tour de Nesle," and find

out if he can any single scene, speech, or phrase deserving the

suffrage which Paris has accorded to it. Has the dialogue either

dignity, spirit, or truth of nature to recommend it? Is there a single

sentiment throughout the five acts with which an honest man can

accord? Is there even an approach to grace or beauty in the

_tableaux_? or skill in the arrangement of the scenes? or keeping of

character among the demoniacal _dramatis personæ_ which MM. Gaillardet

et ***** have brought together? or, in short, any one merit to

recommend it--except only its superlative defiance of common decency

and common sense?

If there be any left among the men of France; I speak not now of her

boys, the spoilt grandchildren of the old revolution;--but if there be

any left among her men, as I in truth believe there are, who deprecate

this eclipse of her literary glory, is it not sad that they should be

forced to permit its toleration, for fear they should be sent to Ham

for interfering with the liberty of the press?

It is impossible to witness the representation of one of these

infamous pieces without perceiving, as you glance your eye around the

house, who are its patrons and supporters. At no great distance from

us, when we saw the "Tour de Nesle," were three young men who had all

of them a most thoroughly "_jeunes gens_" and republican cast of

countenance, and tournure of person and dress. They tossed their heads

and snuffed the theatrical air of "_la Jeune France_," as if they felt

that they were, or ought to be, her masters: and it is a positive fact

that nothing pre-eminently absurd or offensive was done or said upon

the stage, which this trio did not mark with particular admiration and

applause.

There was, however, such a saucy look of determination to do what they

knew was absurd, that I gave them credit for being aware of the

nonsense of what they applauded, from the very fact that they did

applaud it.

It is easy enough sometimes to discover "le vrai au travers du

ridicule;" and these silly boys were not, I am persuaded, such utter

blockheads as they endeavoured to appear. It is a bad and mischievous

tone, however; and the affecting a vice where you have it not, is

quite as detestable a sort of hypocrisy as any other.

Some thousand years hence perhaps, if any curious collectors of rare

copies should contrive among them to preserve specimens of the French

dramas of the present day, it may happen that while the times that are

gone shall continue to be classed as the Iron, the Golden, the Dark,

and the Augustan ages, this day of ours may become familiar in all

men's mouths as the Diabolic age,--unless, indeed, some charitable

critic shall step forward in our defence, and bestow upon it the

gentler appellation of "the Idiot era."

LETTER XLVII.

Palais Royal.--Variety of Characters.--Party of

English.--Restaurant.--Galerie d'Orléans.--Number of

Loungers.--Convenient abundance of Idle Men.--Théâtre du

Vaudeville.

Though, as a lady, you may fancy yourself quite beyond the possibility

of ever feeling any interest in the Palais Royal, its restaurans, its

trinket-shops, ribbon-shops, toy-shops &c. &c. &c. and all the world

of misery, mischief, and good cheer which rises _étage_ after _étage_

above them; I must nevertheless indulge in a little gossip respecting

it, because few things in Paris--I might, I believe, say nothing--can

show an aspect so completely un-English in all ways as this singular

region. The palace itself is stately and imposing, though not

externally in the very best taste. Corneille, however, says of it,--

"L'univers entier ne peut voir rien d'égal

Au superbe dehors du Palais Cardinal,"

as it was called from having been built and inhabited by the Cardinal

de Richelieu. But it is the use made of the space which was originally

the Cardinal's garden, which gives the place its present interest.

All the world--men, women and children, gentle and simple, rich and

poor,--in short, I suppose every living soul that enters Paris, is

taken to look at the Palais Royal. But though many strangers linger

there, alas! all too long, there are many others who, according to my

notions, do not linger there long enough. The quickest eye cannot

catch at one glance, though that glance be in activity during a tour

made round the whole enclosure, all the national characteristic,

picturesque, and comic groups which float about there incessantly

through at least twenty hours of the twenty-four. I know that the

Palais Royal is a study which, in its higher walks and profoundest

depths, it would be equally difficult, dangerous, and disagreeable to

pursue: but with these altitudes and profundities I have nothing to

do; there are abundance of objects to be seen there, calculated and

intended to meet the eyes of all men, and women too, which may furnish

matter for observation, without either diving or climbing in pursuit

of knowledge that, after all, would be better lost than found.

But one should have the talent of Hogarth to describe the different

groups, with all their varied little episodes of peculiarity, which

render the Palais Royal so amusing. These groups are, to be sure, made

up only of Parisians, and of the wanderers who visit _la belle ville_

in order to see and be seen in every part of it; yet it is in vain

that you would seek elsewhere the same odd selection of human beings

that are to be found sans faute in every corner of the Palais Royal.

How it happens I know not, but so it is, that almost every person you

meet here furnishes food for speculation. If it be an elegant

well-appointed man of fashion, the fancy instantly tracks him to a

_salon de jeu_; and if you are very good-natured, your heart will ache

to think how much misery he is likely to carry home with him. If it be

a low, skulking, semi-genteel _moustache_, with large, dark, deep-set

eyes rolling about to see whom he can devour, you are as certain that

he too is making for a salon, as that a man with a rod and line on his

shoulder is going to fish. That pretty _soubrette_, with her neat

heels and smart silk apron, who has evidently a few francs tied up in

the corner of the handkerchief which she holds in her hand--do we not

know that she is peering through the window of every trinket-shop to

see where she can descry the most tempting gold ear-rings, for the

purchase of which a quarter's wages are about to be dis-kerchiefed?

We must not overlook, and indeed it would not be easy to do so, that

well-defined domestic party of our country-folks who have just turned

into the superb Galerie d'Orléans. Father, mother, and daughters--how

easy to guess their thoughts, and almost their words! The portly

father declares that it would make a capital Exchange: he has not yet

seen La Bourse. He looks up to its noble height--then steps forward a

pace or two, and measures with his eye the space on all sides--then

stops, and perhaps says to the stately lady on his arm, (whose eyes

meanwhile are wandering amidst shawls, gloves, Cologne bottles, and

Sèvres china, first on one side and then on the other,)--"This is not

badly built; it is light and lofty--and the width is very considerable

for so slight-looking a roof; but what is it compared to

Waterloo-bridge!"

Two pretty girls, with bright cheeks, dove-like eyes, and "tresses

like the morn," falling in un-numbered ringlets, so as almost to hide

their curious yet timid glances, precede the parent pair; but, with

pretty well-taught caution, pause when they pause, and step on when

they step on. But they can hardly look at anything; for do they not

know, though their downcast eyes can hardly be said to see it, that

those youths with coal-black hair, favoris and imperials, are spying

at them with their lorgnettes?

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