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NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA
PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51,
UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.
BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON,
AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA."
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY.
MDCCCLIII.
LONDON:
Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Description of Tintalous and its Environs--Palace and
Huts--Bedsteads--Kailouee Race--Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
Gagliuffi--Proposed Journey to Aghadez--Dr. Barth starts--An obstinate
Bullock--Present extraordinary--State of Zinder--Affability of the
Sultan--Power of Charms--Scorpions--Dialogue with a Ghatee--Splendid
Meteors--Visit from En-Noor--Intrigues of the Fellatahs--A Sultan loaded
with Presents--Talk of departing for Zinder--State of the Bornou
Road--Division of a Bullock--Bottle of Rum stolen--More Visits from the
Sultan--A Musical Entertainment--Curious Etymological Discussions--A
wonderful Prophetess--Secret Societies--Magicians--The Evil
Eye--Morality of Soudan--Magnificent Meteor--Stories of the Sfaxee.
CHAPTER II.
Muslim want of Curiosity--Gossip on Meteors--A Family Broil--Rationale
of Wife-beating--Abominable Dances--Evil Communications--Dr.
Overweg--Kailouee Vocabulary--Windy Day--Account of Wadai--Madame
En-Noor--Profits of Commerce--The letter _Ghain_--Fellatah
Language--Introduction of Islamism--Desert Routes--Trade in Agate
Stones--A lively Patient--The Eed--A Visit _en masse_--Arrival of the
Boat--Butchers--Exchange of Visits with the Sultan--Diet--A Shereef--A
delicate Request--Information on Maradee--Tesaoua--Itinerant
Schoolmasters--En-Noor's Territory in Damerghou--Unpleasant
Communication--Amulets--The Foundation of a City in the
Desert--En-Noor's Political Pretensions.
CHAPTER III.
News from Barth--Camels restored--Expensive Journey--Proposed Migration
of Males--Supply of Slaves, whence--A new Well--Pagans and
Christians--Tibboo Manners--The great Gong--When is a Tibboo
hungry?--Hunger-belt--Queen of England in the Sahara--The Shanbah--A
hasty Marriage--Said's new Wife--Wild Cauliflowers--Tolerance of the
Kailouees--Men go to fetch Salt from Bilma--Approach of Dr.
Barth--Lion's Mouth--Tibboos and Kailouees--Mysteries of
Tintalous--Fewness of Men in Aheer--Trees preserved in the
Valley--Bright Stars--Method of Salutation--Purposed Stars--Kailouee
Character--Champagne at Tintalous--The Wells.
CHAPTER IV.
Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez--Description of the
Route--Tiggedah--Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah--Plain of Tarist--Beautiful
Valley--Buddeh--Small Caravan--Aghadez--its Inhabitants--their
Occupation--The great Koku, or Sultan--Asbenouee Revolutions--Election
of a Prince--Interview--Ceremony of Investiture--Razzia--Intricate
Political System--Account of Aghadez--Mosque--Environs--Women--Tribes
of Asben--The Targhee Family--Population of the Ghat
Districts--of Aheer--The Oulimad and Tanelkums--Tribe of
Janet--Haghar--Sagamaram--Maghatah--Extent of Aheer--Connexion
with the Black Countries--Mechanism of Society in
Aheer--Chieftains--Tax-gathering--Food of the
Kailouees--Maharees--Amusements--Natural Features of
Asben--Vegetation--Cultivation--Manufactures--Bags for Charms.
CHAPTER V.
Projected Departure for Damerghou--False Start--Picturesque
Caravan--Sultan's Views of White Skins--My Birthday--The Sultan fights
his Battles over again--His Opinion of Women--Bragging--The Razzia on
the Fadeea--Political News in the Desert--Cold Weather--Continue our
Journey--Bornouese Fighis--Tin-Tagannu--Trap for a Lion--Mousa's
Camels--A further Delay--Jackals and the Fire--Language of
Signs--Tintalousian Coquettes--Departure of the Zinder Caravan--Natural
Features--Languages--The Kilgris--Killing Lice--The Razzia to the
North--Present of a Draught-board--Pagan Nations--Favourable Reports.
CHAPTER VI.
Medicine for Bad Eyes--A summary Proceeding--News from the
Salt-Caravan--Towns and Villages of Tesaoua--Earthquakes--Presents for
the Sultan of Maradee--Yusuf's Insolence--English Money in Aheer--A
Razzia on the Holy City--Bornouese Studies--Gipsies of Soudan--En-Noor
and the Marabouts--Ghaseb--State of the Weather--Calculations for the
Future--Senna--Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer--En-Noor in his
Family--Gouber and Maradee--Beer-drinking--Study of the Sau--Shara--The
Oulimad--Lions--Translating Jokes--Digging a Well--Projects.
CHAPTER VII.
Razzia on the Fadeea--Haussa--Names of Places--Ant-track--Circular
Letter from Mourzuk--Vast Rock--Mustapha Bey's Letter--Effects of
Water--Butterflies--Aspect of the Country--A Slave advanced
to Honour--Shonshona--Herbage--Birds--Appearance of the
Salt-Caravan--Colours of Dawn--Bilma Salt--Mode of Barter--Pass the Rock
of Mari--Granite--Indigo Plant--Presents at Stamboul--The Sultan begs
again--Old Men's Importunities--Baghzem--Curiosities of the
Route--People of Damerghou--Temporary Village of Women--Country begins
to open--Barter Transaction with Lady En-Noor.
CHAPTER VIII.
We continue our Journey--Huntsmen--Gum on the Tholukhs--The
Salt-Caravan--A Bunch of Gum--Games among the
Slaves--Baghzem--Trees--Palm of Pharaoh--Deserted Villages--Birds'
Nests--Wife of En-Noor--Unan--Lizards--Bad News--Christmas
day in Africa--Christmas-boxes--Begging Tuaricks
again--Bargot--Musicians--Speculations--Tribes at War--Parasitical
Plant--Importance of Salt--Animals--Agalgo--Force of the Caravan--Beat
of Drum--Approach the Hamadah--Giraffes--Poisoned Arrows--Ear of
Ghaseb--Soudan and Bornou Roads.
CHAPTER IX.
Enter the Hamadah--Home of the Giraffe--Water of
Chidugulah--Turtles--Cool Wind--Jerboahs--Centre of the
Sahara--New-year's Eve--Cold Weather--Birds of Prey--Soudan
Date--Burs--Animals on the Plateau--Young Ostrich--The
Tholukh-tree--Severe Cold--Eleven Ostriches--Termination of the
Desert--Inasamet--The Tagama--Purchases--People begin to
improve--Fruit of the Lote-tree--Village roofed with Skins--Vast
Plain--Horses--Approach Damerghou--Village of Gumrek--Rough
Customers--Wars of the Kilgris and Kailouees--A small
Lake--Guinea-hens--Vultures--Party of Huntsmen.
CHAPTER X.
My Barracan--Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou--Ghaseb
Stubble--Cactus--Water-Melons--Party of Tuaricks--Boban Birni--Huts of
Damerghou--Tagelel--Women of the Village--Population of the
Country--Complaisant Ladies--Festivities--Aquatic Birds--Dancing--A
Flatterer--A Slave Family--A new Reason for Wife-beating--Hazna
Dancers--Damerghou, common ground--Purchase of Ghaseb--Dethroned
Sultan--Yusuf--Mohammed Tunisee--Ophthalmia--Part with Barth and
Overweg--Presents to Servants--Sheikh of Fumta--Yakobah
Slave--Applications for Medicine--Boban Birni--Forest--At length enter
Bornou ground--Daazzenai--Tuarick Respectabilities--Detachment of the
Salt-Caravan.
CHAPTER XI.
March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from
the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the
Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the
Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of
the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of
En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central
Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation
with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of
Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.
CHAPTER XII.
Presents from Officials--Mode of treating Camels--Prices--Cowrie
Money--Shereef Interpreter--Visits--Harem--Houses--Grand
Vizier--Picturesque Dances--Tuaricks at Zinder--Kohlans and
Fullans--Province of Zinder--Account of its Rebellions--Trees--Details
on the Slave-trade--Prices--Mode of obtaining Slaves--Abject
Respect of the Sultan--Visits--Interview with the Sarkee--The
Presence--Curious Mode of administering Justice--Barbarous
Punishments--Hyaenas--Gurasu--Fighis--Place of Execution--Tree of
Death--Hyaena Dens--Dancing.
CHAPTER XIII.
Brother of the Sultan--Trade of Zinder--Prices--The Sarkee drinks
Rum--Five Cities--Houses of Zinder--Female Toilette--Another Tree of
Death--Paganism--Severity of the Sultan--Lemons--Barth and
Overweg--Fire--Brother of the Sarkee--Daura--Shonshona--Lousou--Slaves
in Irons--Reported Razzia--Talk with the Shereef--Humble
Manners--Applications for Medicines--Towns and Villages of Zinder--The
great Drum--Dyers--Tuarick Visits--Rationale of Razzias--Slaves--"Like
Prince like People"--French in Algiers--The Market--Old Slave--Infamous
System--Plan of the great Razzia.
CHAPTER XIV.
Family of the Sarkee--Converted Jew--Hard Dealings--How to get rid of a
Wife--Route to Tesaoua--Influence of Slavery--Prices of Aloes and
Silk--Medicine for a Merchant--Departure of the Sarkee for the
Razzia--Encampment--Mode of Fighting--Produce of Razzias--Story of the
Tibboo--Sheikh Lousou--Gumel--Superstitions--Matting--Visit
of Ladies--The Jew--Incendiaries--Hazna--Legend of Zinder
Well--Kohul--Cousin of the Sheikh--Female Sheikh--State of the
Country--Salutations.
CHAPTER XV.
Political News--Animals of Zinder--Sleepy City--District
of Korgum--Razzias--Family of Sheikh Omer of
Bornou--Brothers--Sons--Sisters--Daughters--Viziers--Kashallas--Power of
the Sheikh--A Cheating Prince--Old Slave--Fetishism--Devil in a
Tuarick's head--Kibabs--Fires--A Prophecy--Another Version of the
Razzia--Correspondence between Korgum and Zinder.
CHAPTER XVI.
Sheikh of Bornou--Arab Women--News from the Razzia--Procession of
newly-caught Slaves--Entrance of the Sarkee--Chained Slaves--My Servant
at the Razzia--Audacity of Bornou Slaves--Korgum--Konchai--Product of
the Razzia--Ghadamsee Merchants--Slave-trade--Incident at Korgum--State
of Kanou--A Hue and Cry--Black Character--Vegetables at
Zinder--Minstrel--Medi--Gardens--Ladies--Fanaticism--Americans at
Niffee--Rich People--Tuaricks Sick--Morals--Dread of the
Sarkee--Fashions.
CHAPTER XVII.
News from Tesaoua--Razzia on Sakkatou--Laziness in Zinder--The
Hajah--Herds of Cattle--More Tuarick Patients--Gardens--My
Luggage--Adieu to the Sarkee--Present from his Highness--Start from
Zinder--Country--Birds--Overtake the Kashalla--Slaves for
Kanou--Continue the Journey--People of Deddegi--Their Timidity--Horse
Exercise--Cotton--Strange Birds--Occupation of Men and Women--State of
African Society--Islamism and Paganism--Character of the Kashalla--A
Dogberry--Guddemuni--Cultivation--Beggars--Dancing Maidens.
CHAPTER XVIII.
A Village plundered--Shaidega--Animals--Our Biscuit--Villages _en
route_--Minyo--Respect for Learning--Monotony of the Country--A
Wedding--Palsy--Slave-agents--Kal, Kal--Birni Gamatak--Tuaricks on the
Plain--Palms--Sight the Town of Gurai--Bare Country--Bearings of various
Places--Province of Minyo--Visit the Sultan--Audience-room--Fine
Costume--A Scene of Barbaric Splendour--Trade--Estimate of Wealth--How
to amuse a Prince--Small Present--The Oars carried by Men--Town of
Gurai--Fortifications.
CHAPTER XIX.
Fezzanee Traders--Sultan in want of Medicine--The Stud--Letters--Yusuf's
Conduct--Architecture--Fragment of the History of Minyo--Politics
of Zinder--Bornouese Fish--Visits--Two Routes--Dancing by
Moonlight--Richness--Fires--Information on Boushi and Adamaua--The
Yamyam--Liver Complaints--A Girl's Game--Desert Country--Gift Camel--Few
Living Creatures--Village of Gusumana--Environs--The Doom
Fruit--Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou--Stupid Kadi--Showing off--Hot
Weather--[Final Note--Death of Mr. Richardson.]
APPENDIX.
NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA
CHAPTER I.
Description of Tintalous and its Environs--Palace and
Huts--Bedsteads--Kailouee Race--Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
Gagliuffi--Proposed Journey to Aghadez--Dr. Barth starts--An obstinate
Bullock--Present extraordinary--State of Zinder--Affability of the
Sultan--Power of Charms--Scorpions--Dialogue with a Ghatee--Splendid
Meteors--Visit from En-Noor--Intrigues of the Fellatahs--A Sultan loaded
with Presents--Talk of departing for Zinder--State of the Bornou
Road--Division of a Bullock--Bottle of Rum stolen--More Visits from the
Sultan--A Musical Entertainment--Curious Etymological Discussions--A
wonderful Prophetess--Secret Societies--Magicians--The Evil
Eye--Morality of Soudan--Magnificent Meteor--Stories of the Sfaxee.
I begin at length to consider myself as it were at home in this singular
country of Aheer--without, however, experiencing any desire to dally
here longer than the force of circumstances absolutely requires. It must
be confessed, as I have already hinted, that the town of Tintalous,[1]
in front of which we are encamped, does not at all answer the idea which
our too active imagination had formed. Yet it is a singular place. It is
situated on rocky ground, at the bend of a broad valley, which in the
rainy season becomes often-times the bed of a temporary river. Here and
there around it are scattered numerous trees, many of considerable size,
giving the surface of the valley something of a park-like appearance.
The herbage is not rich, but it is ornamental, and refreshes the eye in
contrast with the black, naked rocks, which rise on all hands to the
height often of two or three thousand feet. To the east, it is true, the
country is a little open; and between the mountains run in numerous
white sandy wadys, sprinkled with fresh green plants, or shaded by
various species of mimosa and other spreading trees, under which the
shepherds and herdsmen find shelter from the sun.
[1] Tintalous is 40 short and 30 long days from Ghat, N.N.E.;
60 short and 50 long from Mourzuk, N.E.; 20 short, 15 long,
from Zinder or Damerghou, S.S.W.; 7 long, 10 or 12 short,
from Bilma, E.; 38 to 45 days from Tuat, N.W. (_via_
Taghajeet). Maharees, of course, trot and gallop in half
the time. These are native statements.
The principal feature of Tintalous itself is what may be called the
palace of En-Noor. It is, indeed, one, compared with the huts and stone
hovels amidst which it is placed. The materials are stone plastered with
mud, and also the wood of the mimosa tree. The form is an oblong square,
one story high, with an interior courtyard, and various appendages and
huts around on the outside. There is another house, and also a mosque
built in the same style, but much smaller. Of the rest of the
habitations, a few are stone sheds, but the greater part are huts made
of the dry stalks of the fine herb called bou rekabah, in the form of a
conical English haystack, and are very snug, impervious alike to rain
and sun. There are not more than one hundred and fifty of these huts and
sheds, scattered over a considerable space, without any order; some are
placed two or three together within a small enclosure, which serves as a
court or yard, in which visitors are received and cooking is carried on.
There is another little village at a stone's-throw north. The
inhabitants of these two villages consist entirely of the slaves and
dependants of En-Noor.
All around Tintalous, within an hour or two hours' ride, there are
villages or towns of precisely the same description, more or less
numerously peopled. At Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, however, we saw more
houses built of stone and mud. This may be accounted for by the fact
that the inhabitants are not nearly so migratory as those of Tintalous,
who often follow in a body the motions of their master, so that he is
ever surrounded by an imposing household.
I must not omit mentioning an important article of furniture which is to
be observed in all the houses of Aheer--namely, the bedstead. Whilst
most of the inhabitants of Fezzan lie upon skins or mats upon the
ground, the Kailouees have a nice light palm-branch bedstead, which
enables them to escape the damp of the rainy season, and the attack of
dangerous insects and reptiles like the scorpion and the lefa.
I shall hereafter make a few observations on the tribes inhabiting
Aheer. Here I will note that they are all called Targhee, that is
Tuarick, by the traders of the north; and that the predominant race is
the Kailouee. To me the latter seems to be a mixture of the Berbers, or
supposed aborigines of the northern coast, with all the tribes and
varieties of tribes of the interior of Africa. This may account for
their having less pride and stiffness than the Tuaricks of Ghat, who are
purer Berbers; as well as for their disposition to thieving and petty
larceny, of which I have recently been obliged to give some examples.
The pure Berbers, likewise, are much less sensual than their bastard
descendants, who seem, indeed, to have no idea of pleasure but in its
grossest shape.
The Kailouees are, for the most part, tall and active, little encumbered
by bulky bodies; some having both complexion and features nearly
European. At any rate there are many as fair-looking as the Arabs
generally, whilst others are quite negro in colour. The women are
smaller and stouter; some are fattened like the Mooresses of the coast,
and attain to an enormous degree of _embon-point_. They are not
ill-looking, but offer nothing remarkable in their forms.
I have already set down many particulars of manners, and shall proceed
to do so in the same disjointed way. At a future time all these traits
must be collected to form one picture.[2] For the present I am anxious
about the future progress of the Mission, and impatient, at any rate, to
hear some news of our advance. We cannot do all the things we would. Our
position is almost that of prisoners. We must depend entirely on the
caprice of En-Noor, who, however, may already have laid out his plans
distinctly, though he does not choose to communicate them to us.
[2] Perhaps the note-books of Mr. Richardson, in which facts
are set down fresh and distinct just as they presented
themselves, will be found to be more interesting than an
elaborate narrative. At any rate it has seemed better not
to attempt to do what was left undone in this matter.--ED.
_Oct. 2d._--We have been lately discussing the practicability of going
to Sakkatou, on a visit to the Sultan Bello; and this morning I looked
over, for the first time, some "letters of credit" which Mr. Gagliuffi,
our plausible consul at Mourzuk, had given me. I found that the amount
offered for the use of the expedition in Kanou does not exceed a hundred
and fifty reals of Fezzan, or about twenty pounds sterling, and that the
agent is expressly requested not to advance any more! This extraordinary
document induced me to look further, and it soon appeared that the
documents on which I relied so much were mere delusions. The wording of
the Arabic letter to Bornou was ambiguous; but in as far as I and my
interpreter could make it out, Haj Bashaw, to whom it is addressed, was
requested, if he had any money of Mr. Gagliuffi's in hand, to give me _a
little_! I really did not expect that a person in whom I had placed so
much confidence would play me this trick. But it seems that Levantines
are and will be Levantines to the end of time. I have written to
Government, complaining of this unworthy conduct.
_3d._--Dr. Barth is about to take advantage of the delay necessarily
incurred at Tintalous to visit Aghadez, the real capital of Aheer, to
which the new Sultan has lately been led, and where his investiture will
shortly be celebrated. This journey will extend our knowledge of this
singular Saharan country, and may also be of advantage in procuring the
signature of the Sultan to a treaty of commerce.
_4th._--Dr. Barth started this morning in company with Hamma, Waled Ocht
En-Noor (son of the sister of En-Noor). The departure took place in
presence of the Sultan himself, who had come to take tea with me. The
caravan was at first composed of bullocks, the camels being a little in
advance on the road. Our friend the Doctor started astride on one of
these animals, which are a little difficult to manage, especially when
they have been out at grass for some time. Indeed, in the first place,
it is no easy matter to catch them from amongst the herds; then it is
hard to load them; and then, though not often, they refuse to proceed.
On this occasion a powerful brute proved absolutely unmanageable.
En-Noor, seeing its obstinacy, exclaimed that he gave it to me to kill
and eat. He afterwards, however, modified his gift, and said that the
bullock was also to be distributed amongst the Arabs of the caravans now
in Tintalous; and that we were to give a turban as a present to the
herdsman. I was told that, in the meantime, representation had been made
to him, to the effect that it was unfair to distinguish the Christians
in this manner. Soon after the animal was given it ran away, and no one
could catch it.
Well, the bullock caravan went off in good style; and Sultan En-Noor
remained taking his tea and eating English pickles and marmalade with
me. He drank the tea and ate the other delicacies with evident pleasure,
not being afraid, like the greater part of his subjects, to eat the food
of Christians. Possession of power seems to have one good effect--the
destruction of prejudice; pity that it sometimes goes further and
destroys belief. En-Noor told us that the Sultan of Asoudee had gone out
on a razzia to the west. We are obliged to hope that it will be
successful, as otherwise our affairs will most materially suffer. We
talked also of the state of Zinder, which is represented to be a walled
town, with seven gates built amidst and around some huge rocks. The
governor, Ibrahim, keeps fifty drummers at work every night, but whether
with a purpose superstitious or political I do not know.
En-Noor admired much the portraits of the personages who figure in the
accounts of the former expedition to this part of the world,
particularly that of Clapperton. He had also a wonderful story to tell
of this traveller's magic. He said that Abdallah (Clapperton's
travelling name) had learned from his books the site of his (En-Noor's)
father's house, that near it was a gold mine, and that he had intended
to come and give intelligence of this treasure. "See!" exclaimed the
Sultan, "what wonderful things are written in the books of the
Christians!"
My young fighi (or writer of charms) tells me, as a secret, that he
cannot write a talisman for himself, but must ask another of the
brotherhood to do this for him. Neither in this place can physicians
heal themselves. This civil youth made me a present of a piece of his
workmanship to-day, observing, "There is great profit in its power; it
will preserve you from the cut of the sword and the firing of the gun."
I pray not to have occasion to test its efficacy, but hope it may also
serve as a protection from the bite of scorpions, which are so plentiful
about here, and are said, at this season, to jump like grasshoppers.
According to the people of Tintalous there are three species of them,
each distinguished by a different colour--black, red, and yellow.
Despite the talk of these disgusting reptiles I went in the evening to
see the wells which supply Tintalous with water. They are nothing more
than holes scooped out of the sand in the bed of the wady, and supplied
by _ma-el-matr_, "rain-water," which collects only a few feet under the
sand, and passes through no minerals.
I afterwards proceeded to the encampment of the slave caravan, which is
going in a few days to Ghat. A native of that place--the chief,
indeed--was exceedingly rude at our first rencounter, and the following
dialogue took place:--
_The Ghatee._ Where are you going?
_Myself._ I am going to Sakkatou.
_The Ghatee._ What for?
_Myself._ To see the Sultan, who is my friend.
_The Ghatee._ How do you know him?
_Myself._ The English have known him for years past.
_The Ghatee._ Ah!
_Myself._ Yes.
_The Ghatee._ Have you any dollars--large dollars? (making a large
circle with his thumb and forefinger.)
_Myself._ No: I don't carry money to Soudan, which is of no use to me.
There I shall have wada.
_Ghatee._ Eh! Eh! But cannot you give me a turban?
_Myself._ No, I am not a merchant, I don't bring such things; go to the
Arab merchants and buy.
_Ghatee._ Um! Um!
_Myself._ Do you know Mohammed Kafa in Ghat?
_Ghatee._ Oh, yes!
_Myself._ He is my friend.
_Ghatee._ Allah!
_Myself._ Yes; he sent me a fine dinner twice whilst I was in Ghat.
_Ghatee._ Allah! Allah!
_Myself._ Do you know Haj Ibrahim? He is my great friend.
_Ghatee._ Allah! Allah! (greatly surprised).
_Myself._ Why, how is it that you do not know me, Yakob, as I have
been in Ghat many years before?
At this some of the other people of the caravan cried out, "Yes, yes, we
all know Yakob;" so that I left the rude slave-merchant quite
crest-fallen. He evidently, at first, wished to assume the airs of a
Haghar, and bully me out of a present.
The caravan consisted of some thirty poor young women and children.
There was also with them a small quantity of elephants' teeth.
Now that the moon is absent and the nights are clear we have a most
splendid view of the heavens, its stars and constellations. The number
of meteors darting to and fro overhead is very great--nearly one a
minute shoots along. Some are only a faint glimmer, and have but the
existence of a moment, whilst others are very beautiful and last several
seconds.
_5th._--The weather is improving; the strong gusts of wind have ceased,
and so has the rain. We have now calm and fine days with moderate heat.
In the afternoon I received another visit from En-Noor, who came
straight into my tent, like an old friend whom I had known for twenty
years. He stopped with me at least an hour, drinking tea and smoking,
chatting the while about his past history and present affairs. He
reiterated again assurances of his friendship for the English, and his
determination to remain the ally of the Queen of England! He referred to
the time when the great Bello, sultan of Sakkatou, sent his ambassador
to request him (En-Noor) and all his people to subject themselves to the
Fellatahs. En-Noor gave him for answer, "I am under God, the servant of
God, and shall not submit myself to you or to any one upon earth. My
father, and grandfather, and great-grandfather, and all my ancestors,
ruled here, and were the servants of God, and I shall follow in their
steps." The Fellatahs then tried to seduce the people, but they all
said, "We have one Sultan, that is En-Noor." All the other authorities
of Aheer followed the example, and preserved their independence, the
people everywhere arming themselves with whatever weapons they had in
case a war should break out.
After this narrative, En-Noor spoke again of the English, and said he
should send a maharee for the Queen.
I gave him a fancy ring of the value of threepence, with a mock diamond
in it, which he immediately put on his finger with as much glee and
pride as the gayest Parisian coquette. Yusuf and the Sfaxee, being
present, swore it was _diamanti_; but I am quite sure the old Sheikh
understood the compliment. I also gave him a pair of bellows, a basin,
and a pint bottle with a little oil it; with all these things he was
greatly delighted, continually admiring and trying the bellows. When he
went out of the tent he himself carried all these articles away under
his arm.
With reference to our wish to start for Zinder, the Sultan says he will
send immediately for the boat, that it may be ready by the time Dr.
Barth returns from Aghadez, when he is determined himself to take that
route. He seems now in the enjoyment of good health. I felt much
satisfied with his visit. Certainly, when I reflect that in the northern
frontier of Aheer we were pursued for several days, like monsters not
fit to live, by armed bands, this appears to me extraordinary
condescension on the part of En-Noor. I hope we shall part in a friendly
manner. This worthy sovereign gives the present Sultan of Sakkatou, Ali
Bello, the character of a miser, but says that his father was a man of
liberality. He cannot exceed En-Noor himself in greediness.
The bad state of the Bornou route is accounted for by the desire the
Kailouees have to render it unsafe, so that they may have all the
caravans come along their own route. The same thing is said of the
Timbuctoo route from Soudan. The Haghar murder all who attempt to go
from Soudan to Timbuctoo, in order that the caravans may pass Ghat and
Tuat. This is called the natural explanation of the bad character of
these routes.
_6th._--I continue to record the few characteristic incidents of my
residence at Tintalous. Our bullock has been at last killed. We could
not catch him, but shot him down. The carcase was divided between no
less than twenty persons, and the meat proved to be pretty good. Of my
share I made steaks, which I washed down with some tea and rum. This is
the first time we have had fresh beef since leaving Tripoli. The event
created an immense sensation throughout the whole town of Tintalous, for
the slaughter of a bullock does not take place there every day.
This morning I administered two ounces of Epsom salts to a good-natured
Kailouee, who, although perfectly well, would persist in begging for
medicine. These people are continually asking to be doctored when
nothing ails them. En-Noor seems to have taken a fancy to our morning
beverages, and has sent for tea and coffee. I am afraid he will become a
regular customer. Yusuf carried off a bottle of rum from the tent in the
evening, which occasioned a disturbance between the servants and myself.
This worthy is not to be trusted with the care of any strong liquor. The
little Hamadee was privy to the theft. In the course of the evening the
_new moon_ was seen by seven creditable persons, so that in eight days
more we shall have the Feast of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven,"
and four or five days after that we hope to start for Zinder.
_7th._--This was a fine morning, with the thermometer at sunrise in the
tent 70 deg.; outside, 66 deg.. The water has been so cooled during the night
that my hands ached when I washed them. Later in the season it will be
yet colder; and all reports tell us that in Kanou after the rains it is
often very chilly.
His highness the Sultan again was attracted by my tea and marmalade, and
gave me a call. He desired to see once more the portrait of Clapperton,
and told me that Abdallah had five women in Sakkatou, and had left
behind him three children, all boys. The Sultan was excessively friendly
in manner, which induced me to make him another little present of a ring
set with paste, and a small pair of gilt scissors for one of his wives.
He calls me his brother, and manifests increased anxiety to be friendly
with the English. According to him, a short time since the Sheikh of
El-Fadeea, who commanded the attack made on us at the frontier, came
here; and, in consideration of a few presents and compliments, had
promised to exert himself to procure the restoration of our lost or
stolen camels. En-Noor also again talked about the boat. I am in great
hopes that we shall part from him on good terms, and that he will be
true to his protestations. There is generally a companion with the old
gentleman on these visits. This time it was an aged Tanelkum, who
married a sister of the Sheikh and has been settled many years in the
country. We gave him more tea, and also a piece of white sugar, to carry
home.
This evening the Fezzan and Tripoli Arabs had a musical entertainment,
accompanied with dancing, at which Madame En-Noor and several
distinguished ladies of Tintalous assisted. It was the usual singing
business, with Moorish hammering on tambourines. The dance was performed
by men, mostly in imitation of the women, and was also of the usual
inelegant and indelicate description. However, there was a little mixing
of the derwish dances. The thing went off to the great satisfaction of
the Kailouees, and was kept up till midnight.
_8th._--I slept little after the villanous dancing and riot of the
preceding night, and rose late. My occupation this day was completing my
vocabulary of the Kailouee language, of which I expect to collect a
thousand words. My interpreter sometimes gives very curious explanations
when I work with him. The Arabic word which we translate "Alas!" coming
under consideration, he observed: "There is no corresponding word in the
languages of these countries. This word belongs to the Koran and the
next world." He means, that the word has only a relation to the torment
of the damned. It is curious that this Arabic term agrees with, or is
like, our word _wail_ (Ar. _weel_), and is the term used by our
translators of the New Testament in describing the torments of the lost,
"Weeping and _wailing_" &c.
Of the term "chaste," Yusuf observed, "There is no such expression in
these languages; all the women are alike, and equally accessible when
danger is absent." It is also true that the men place no bounds to their
sensual appetites, and are restrained only by inability. It may be,
however, that the more religious would have some scruples about
intriguing with their neighbours' wives.
When we came to the word "school" Yusuf pretended there was not such a
word in Kailouee. He asked, "Where in Tintalous is there a school?" The
question, unfortunately, is put with too much truth. The Kailouees
hereabouts seem entirely to neglect education.
I myself observe that the Arabic _booss_ answers exactly to the vulgar
word in English for _kiss_.[3] The name of a raven is one of many
remarkable examples of a word being chosen to imitate in sound some
peculiarity of the thing signified. In this case, _kak_ irresistibly
reminds one of the raven's croaking voice; which we describe by _caw_.
_Kass_, scissors, is also an imitation of the sound produced by this
instrument in cutting.
[3] A good many similarities of this kind, accidental or
otherwise, might be pointed out: _ydrub_ is "to drub;"
_kaab_ would be translated, in old English, "kibe;"
_ykattah_ is "to cut;" _kotta_, "a cat;" _bak_, "a bug;"
_stabl_, "a stable," &c. &c. I have noticed, also, some
similarities with French words e.g. _ykassar_,
"casser"--ED.
In the evening the Sfaxee and Yusuf came to pay us a visit, and related
divers sorts of wonders of this and other countries of Africa. The first
matter concerned us. Eight days ago died in Tintalous an old witch, or
prophetess, a negress, who foretold our arrival, and said to En-Noor, "A
caravan of Englishmen is on the road from Tripoli, coming to you." This
woman for many years was a foreteller of future events. The next thing
we heard referred to the secret societies of Central Africa. Some of the
chiefs of these societies have the power of killing with their eyes. One
of these fellows is known to have gone to a merchant, in whose arms was
sleeping a pretty female slave, and to have entered into conversation
with him, asking him how he was, &c. In the meanwhile the wizard cast
his eyes upon the pretty slave, and its heart withered. This power is
accordingly much dreaded. If, however, any one perceive the incantation
of the wizard, and say, "Begone, you son of a brach!" he immediately
flees, like a dog with his tail between his legs.
In parts of Bornou, also, extraordinary things sometimes happen. There
are men in those places who have the power of assuming the shapes of
wild animals. This they do mostly in the nights. Under the form of lions
and leopards, they go to the tents of strangers, and endeavour to lure
them forth by calling out their proper names with a perfect human voice.
If any one is so imprudent as to obey summons and issue forth, he is at
once devoured.
The Sfaxee pledges his word of honour that there was a female slave a
year ago in Mourzuk who killed five of her companions with her looks. On
this a council was held by the merchants and great people of Mourzuk, to
know what to do with her, and the decision come to was to send her back
to Bornou; a happy decision for the poor slave! Lucky for her that she
was not born in some parts of Europe, with her marvellous power. Even
our friend Gagliuffi has not escaped these superstitions of the people
among whom he lives. On my seeing his young turkeys for the first time,
in very considerable numbers, I exclaimed, "What a host of young turkeys
you have got!" On this he became quite alarmed, lest I had cast a malign
look upon them, and ejaculated a counter-exclamation, "Oh, God bless
them!"
The Sfaxee and Yusuf do not speak very favourably of some parts of
Soudan as to morality. In some districts of Begarmi, Yusuf says, a male
takes the first female he meets with, no matter how near the
relationship. All the women, in fact, are in common. We must receive his
asseverations for what they are worth, on this subject in general, and
on the developements into which he entered. According to him, in those
regions where scarcely any other roof is required but the heavens, there
is no other couch spread than the earth, and no one shuns, in any act of
life, the eyes of his neighbours.
Whilst these wonders of witches and tales of African lewdness were being
related, a thing happened which none could disbelieve, none call in
question. This was the appearance of an immense meteor in the sky,
shooting over half the heavens, with a slight curve, from east to west.
It had a tail like a comet, and around its head burnt a blue light of
excessive brilliancy. This phenomenon appeared at a quarter to eight
o'clock in the evening. I never saw anything like it before, and perhaps
shall never again see its equal. It might have been visible two minutes.
We all cried out with surprise at beholding it. We had our faces towards
the south, and the course of the meteor was across the south, but not
very high, at about the third of the circle of the heavens. Afterwards,
every few minutes, small meteors were seen sporting about in the same
direction, some in a straight line and others descending.
_9th._--The wind of this fine cool morning prevented a visit from
En-Noor. That he might not be disappointed, however, I sent him his
customary tea; and amused myself by hearing the Sfaxee discourse of that
constant subject of conversation, the attack of the Fadeea. According to
him, on that occasion great fear was felt by all the caravan. Most of
our servants had formed the resolution to abandon us. There were,
however, some honourable exceptions; amongst the rest, Said, the great
mahadee, and another. Yusuf and Mohammed Tunisee proposed the plan, that
we three, the Germans, and myself, should be mounted on maharees, and
either conveyed back to Aisou or forward to Tintaghoda, during the
night. Some of the Kailouees wavered, as well as the Tanelkums; but
En-Noor (of our escort) always declared that he would never consent to
our being given up. The next morning, two or three of the assailants
were very bold, and came and called out in an authoritative tone, that
we must be given up. It is curious that, in spite of all the force that
was mustered against us, as soon as they saw that we were determined to
resist them, they immediately began to parley. The Sfaxee is an immense
talker, and great allowance must be made for what he says. In reality,
we shall never be able to know the exact truth with respect to this
affair. Dr. Overweg confesses that he was terribly alarmed as well he
might be. For my part, I was more used to desert dangers, and slept all
night. Dr. Barth very kindly refused to allow anybody to awaken me.