CHAPTER XVII.

THE STORY OF LUCKNOW.

"You are going to Lucknow?" she said. It was a lady in black, who sat

in the corner of the railway carriage, as we came down from Upper

India. A cloud passed over her face. "I cannot go there; I was in the

Residency during the siege, and my husband and daughter were killed

there. I cannot revisit a place of such sad memories." It was nothing

to her that the long struggle had ended in victory, and that the story

of the siege was one of the most glorious in English history. Nothing

could efface the impression of those months of suffering. She told us

how day and night the storm of fire raged around them; how the women

took refuge in the cellars; how her daughter was killed before her

eyes by the bursting of a shell; and how, when they grew familiar with

this danger, there came another terrible fear--that of death by

famine; how strong men grew weak for want of food; how women wasted

away from very hunger, and children died because they could find no

nourishment on their mother's breasts.

But amid those horrors there was one figure which she loved to

recall--that of Sir Henry Lawrence, the lion-hearted soldier, who kept

up all hearts by his courage and his iron will--till he too fell, and

left them almost in despair.

Such memories might keep away one who had been a sufferer in these

fearful scenes, but they stimulated our desire to see a spot

associated with such courage and devotion, and led us from the scene

of the tragedy of Cawnpore to that of the siege of Lucknow.

But how soon nature washes away the stain of blood! As we crossed the

Ganges, the gentle stream, rippling against the Slaughter Ghat, left

no red spots upon its stony steps. Near the station was a large

enclosure full of elephants, some of which perhaps had carried their

burden of prisoners down to the river's brink on that fatal day, but

were now "taking their ease," as beasts and men like to do. Familiar

as we are with the sight, it always gives us a fresh impression of our

Asiatic surroundings, to come suddenly upon a herd of these creatures

of such enormous bulk, with ears as large as umbrellas, which are kept

moving like punkas to keep off the flies; to see them drawing up water

into their trunks, as "Behemoth drinketh up Jordan," and spurting it

over their backs; or what is more ludicrous still, to see them at

play, which seems entirely out of character. We think of the elephant

as a grave and solemn creature, made to figure on grand occasions, to

march in triumphal processions, carrying the howdahs of great Rajahs,

covered with cloth of gold. But there is as much of "youth" in the

elephant as in any other beast. A baby elephant is like any other

baby. As little tigers play like kittens, so a little elephant is like

a colt, or like "Mary's little lamb."

Lucknow is only forty miles from Cawnpore, with which it is connected

by railway. A vast plain stretches to the gates of the capital of

Oude. It was evening when we reached our destination, where another

American friend, Rev. Mr. Mudge of the Methodist Mission, was waiting

to receive us. A ride of perhaps a couple of miles through the streets

and bazaars gave us some idea of the extent of a city which ranks

among the first in India. Daylight showed us still more of its extent

and its magnificence. It spreads out many miles over the plain, and

has a population of three hundred thousand, while in splendor it is

the first of the native cities of India--by native I mean one not

taking its character, like Calcutta and Bombay, from the English

element. Lucknow is more purely an Indian city, and has more of the

Oriental style in its architecture--its domes and minarets reminding

us of Cairo and Constantinople. Bayard Taylor says: "The coup d'oeil

from one of the bridges over the Goomtee, resembles that of

Constantinople from the bridge over the Golden Horn, and is more

imposing, more picturesque, and more truly Oriental than any other

city in India." It is a Mohammedan city, as much as Delhi, the mosques

quite overshadowing the Hindoo temples; and the Mohurrim, the great

Moslem festival, is observed here with the same fanaticism. But it is

much larger than Delhi, and though no single palaces equal those of

the old Moguls, yet it has more the appearance of a modern capital, in

its busy and crowded streets. It is a great commercial city, with rich

merchants, with artificers in silver and gold and all the fabrics of

the East.

But the interest of Lucknow, derived from the fact of its being one of

the most populous cities of India, and one of the most splendid, is

quite eclipsed by the thrilling events of its recent history. All its

palaces and mosques have not the attraction of one sacred spot. This

is the Residency, the scene of the siege, which will make the name of

Lucknow immortal. How the struggle came, we may see by recalling one

or two facts in the history of India.

A quarter of a century ago, this was not a part of the British

possessions. It was the Kingdom of Oude, with a sovereign who still

lives in a palace near Calcutta, with large revenues wherewith to

indulge his royal pleasure, but without his kingdom, which the English

Government has taken from him. This occurred just before the Mutiny,

and has often been alleged as one of the causes, if not _the_ cause,

of the outbreak; and England has been loudly accused of perfidy and

treachery towards an Indian prince, and of having brought upon

herself the terrible events which followed.

No doubt the English Government has often carried things with a high

hand in India, and done acts which cannot be defended, just as we must

confess that our own Government, in dealing with our Indian tribes,

has sometimes seemed to ignore both justice and mercy. But as to this

king of Oude, his "right" to his dominion (which is, being

interpreted, a right to torture his unhappy subjects) is about the

same as the right of a Bengal tiger to his jungle--a right which holds

good till some daring hunter can put an end to his career.

When this king ruled in Oude he was such a father to his people, and

such was the affection felt for his paternal government, that he had

to collect his taxes by the military, and it is said that the poor

people in the country built their villages on the borders of the

jungle, and kept a watch out for the approach of the soldiers. As soon

as they were signalled as being in sight, the wretched peasants

gathered up whatever they could carry, and fled into the jungle,

preferring to face the wild beasts and the serpents rather than these

mercenaries of a tyrant. The troops came, seized what was left and set

fire to the village. After they were gone, the miserable people

returned and rebuilt their mud hovels, and tried by tilling the soil,

to gain a bare subsistence. Such was the patriarchal government of one

of the native princes of India.

This king of Oude now finds his chief amusement in collecting a great

menagerie. He has a very large number of wild beasts. He has also a

"snakery," in which he has collected all the serpents of India. It

must be confessed that such a man seems more at home among his tigers

and cobras than in oppressing his wretched people. If Americans who

visit his palace near Calcutta are moved to sympathy with this deposed

king, let them remember what his government was, and they may feel a

little pity for his miserable subjects.

To put such a monster off the throne, and thus put an end to his

tyrannies, was about as much of a "crime" as it would be to restrain

the king of Dahomey or of Ashantee from perpetuating his "Grand

Custom." I am out of patience with this mawkish sympathy. There is too

much real misery in the world that calls for pity and relief, to have

us waste our sensibilities on those who are the scourges of mankind.

But once done, the deed could not be undone. Having seized the bull by

the horns, it was necessary to hold him, and this was not an easy

matter. It needed a strong hand, which was given it in Sir Henry

Lawrence, who had been thirty years in India. Hardly had he been made

governor before he felt that there was danger in the air. Neither he

nor his brother John, the Governor of the Punjaub, were taken by

surprise when the Mutiny broke out. Both expected it, and it did not

find them unprepared. Oude was indeed a centre of rebellion. The

partisans of the ex-king were of course very active, so that when the

Sepoys mutinied at Meerut, near Delhi, the whole kingdom of Oude was

in open revolt. Every place was taken except Lucknow, and that was

saved only by the wisdom and promptness of its new governor.

His first work was to fortify the Residency (so called from having

been occupied by the former English residents), which had about as

much of a military character as an old English manor-house. The

grounds covered some acres, on which were scattered a few buildings,

official residences and guardhouses, with open spaces between, laid

out in lawns and gardens. But the quick eye of the governor saw its

capability of defence. It was a small plateau, raised a few feet above

the plain around, and by connecting the different buildings by walls,

which could be mounted with batteries and loopholed for musketry, the

whole could be constructed into a kind of fortress. Into this he

gathered the European residents with their women and children. And

behind such rude defences a few hundred English soldiers, with as many

natives who had proved faithful, kept a large army at bay for six

months.

There was a fort in Lucknow well supplied with guns and ammunition,

but it was defended by only three hundred men, and was a source of

weakness rather than strength, since the English force was too small

to hold it, and if it should fall into the hands of the Sepoys with

all its stores, it would be the arsenal of the rebellion. At Delhi a

similar danger had been averted only by a brave officer blowing up the

arsenal with his own hand. It was a matter of the utmost moment to

destroy the fort and yet to save the soldiers in it. The only hope of

keeping up any defence was to unite the two feeble garrisons. But they

were more than half a mile apart, and each beleaguered by watchful

enemies. Sir Henry Lawrence signalled to the officer in command: "Blow

up the fort, and come to the Residency at twelve o'clock to-night.

Bring your treasure and guns, and destroy the remainder." This

movement could be executed only by the greatest secrecy. But the order

was promptly obeyed. At midnight the little band filed silently out of

the gates, and stole with muffled steps along a retired path, almost

within reach of the guns of the enemies, who discovered the movement

only when they were safe in the Residency, and the fuse which had been

lighted at the fort reached the magazine, and exploding two hundred

and fifty barrels of gunpowder, blew the massive walls into the air.

But the siege was only just begun. Inside the Residency were collected

about two thousand two hundred souls, of whom over five hundred were

women and children. Only about six hundred were English soldiers, and

seven or eight hundred natives who had remained faithful, held to

their allegiance by the personal ascendancy of Sir Henry Lawrence.[7]

There were also some three hundred civilians, who, though unused to

arms, willingly took part in the defence. Thus all together the

garrison did not exceed seventeen hundred men, of whom many were

disabled by sickness and wounds. The force of the besiegers was twenty

to one. There is in the Indian nature a strange mixture of languor and

ferocity, and the latter was aroused by the prospect of vengeance on

the English, who were penned up where they could not escape, and where

their capture was certain; and every Sepoy wished to be in at the

death. Under the attraction of such a prospect it is said that the

besieging force rose to fifty thousand men. Many of the natives, who

had been in the English service, were practised artillerists, and

trained their guns on the slender defences with fatal effect.

Advancing over the level ground, they drew their lines nearer and

nearer, till their riflemen picked off the soldiers serving in the

batteries. Three times they made a breach by exploding mines under the

walls, and endeavored to carry the place by storm. But then rose high

the unconquerable English spirit. They expected to die, but they were

determined to sell their lives dearly. When the alarm of these attacks

reached the hospital, the sick and wounded crawled out of their beds

and threw away their crutches to take their place at the guns; or if

they could not stand, lay down flat on their faces and fired through

the holes made for musketry.

But brave as were the defenders, the long endurance told upon them.

They were worn out with watching, and their ranks grew thinner day by

day. Those who were killed were carried off in the arms of their

companions, who gathered at midnight for their burial in some lonely

and retired spot, and while the chaplain in a low voice read the

service, the survivors stood around the grave, thinking how soon their

turn would come, the gloom of the night in fit harmony with the dark

thoughts that filled their breasts.

But darker than any night was the day when Sir Henry Lawrence fell. He

was the beloved, the adored commander. "While he lived," said our

informant, "we all felt safe." But exposing himself too much, he was

struck by a shell. Those around him lifted him up tenderly and carried

him away to the house of the surgeon of the garrison, where two days

after he died. When all was over "they did not dare to let the

soldiers know that he was dead," lest they should give up the

struggle. But he lived long enough to inspire them with his

unconquerable spirit.

He died on the 4th of July, and for nearly three months the siege went

on without change, the situation becoming every day more desperate. It

was the hottest season of the year, and the sun blazed down fiercely

into their little camp, aggravating the sickness and suffering, till

they longed for death, and were glad when they could find the grave.

"When my daughter was struck down by a fragment of a shell that fell

on the floor, she did not ask to live. She might have been saved if

she had been where she could have had careful nursing. But there was

no proper food to nourish the strength of the sick, and so she sunk

away, feeling that it was better to die than to live."

But still they would not yield to despair. Havelock had taken

Cawnpore, though he came too late to save the English from massacre,

and was straining every nerve to collect a force sufficient to relieve

Lucknow. As soon as he could muster a thousand men he crossed the

Ganges, and began his march. The movement was known to the little

garrison, and kept up their hopes. A faithful native, who acted as a

spy throughout the siege, went to and fro, disguising himself, and

crept through the lines in the night, and got inside the Residency,

and told them relief was coming. "He had seen the general, and said he

was a little man with white hair," who could be no other than

Havelock. Word was sent back that, on approaching the city, rockets

should be sent up to notify the garrison. Night after night officers

and men gazed toward the west for the expected signal, till their

hearts grew sick as the night passed and there was no sign.

Deliverance was to come, but not yet.

Havelock found that he had attempted the impossible. His force was but

a handful, compared with the hosts of his enemies. Even nature

appeared to be against him. It was the hot and rainy season, when it

seemed impossible to march over the plains of India. Cannon had to be

drawn by bullocks over roads and across fields, where they sank deep

in mud. Men had to march and fight now in the broiling sun, and now in

floods of rain. "In the full midday heat of the worst season of the

year, did our troops start. The sun struck down with frightful force.

At every step a man reeled out of the ranks, and threw himself

fainting by the side of the road; the calls for water were incessant

all along the line." "During the interval between the torrents of

rain, the sun's rays were so overpowering that numbers of the men were

smitten down and died." But the survivors closed up their ranks and

kept their face to the foe. Their spirit was magnificent. Death had

lost its terrors for them, and they made light of hardships and

dangers. When fainting with heat, if they found a little dirty water

by the roadside "it was like nectar." After marching all day in the

rain, they would lie down in the soaking mud, and grasp their guns,

and wrap their coats around them, and sleep soundly. Says an officer:

"August 5th we marched toward Lucknow nine miles and then

encamped on a large plain for the night. You must bear in

mind that we had no tents with us, they are not allowed, so

every day we were exposed to the burning sun and to the rain

and dew by night. No baggage or beds were allowed; but the

soldier wrapped his cloak around him, grasped his musket and

went to sleep, and soundly we slept too. My Arab horse

served me as a pillow, I used to lie down alongside of him,

with my head on his neck, and he never moved with me except

now and then to lick my hand." But he adds, "We found that

it was impossible to proceed to Lucknow, for our force was

too small--for though we were a brave little band, and could

fight to Lucknow, yet we could not compel them to raise the

siege when we got there."

Another enemy also had appeared. Cholera had broken out in the camp;

eleven men died in one day. The Rebels too were rising behind them. As

soon as Havelock crossed the Ganges they began to gather in his rear.

Nana Sahib was mustering a force and threatened Cawnpore. Thus beset

behind and before, Havelock turned and marched against the Mahratta

chief, and sent him flying towards Delhi. In reading the account of

these marches and battles, it is delightful to see the spirit between

the commander and his men. After this victory, as he rode along the

lines, they cheered him vehemently. He returned their salute, but

said, "Don't cheer me, my lads, you did it all yourselves." Such men,

fighting together, were invincible.

In September Havelock had collected 2,700 men, and again set out for

Lucknow. Three days they marched "under a deluge of rain." But their

eyes were "steadfastly set" towards the spot where their countrymen

were in peril, and they cared not for hardships and dangers. The

garrison was apprised of their coming, and waited with feverish

anxiety. In the relieving force was a regiment of Highlanders, and if

no crazy woman could put her ears to the ground (according to the

romantic story so often told) and hear the pibroch, and shout "The

Campbells are coming," they knew that those brave Scots never turned

back. As they drew near the city over the Cawnpore road, they found

that it was mined to blow them up. Instantly they wheeled off, and

marched round the city, and came up on the other side. Capturing the

Alumbagh, one of the royal residences, which, surrounded by a wall,

was easily converted into a temporary fortress, Havelock left here his

heavy baggage and stores of ammunition, with an immense array of

elephants and camels and horses; and all his sick and wounded, and the

whole train of camp-followers; and three hundred men, with four guns

to defend it. Thus "stripped for the fight," he began his attack on

the city. It was two miles to the Residency, and every step the

English had to fight their way through the streets. The battle began

in the morning, and lasted all day. It was a desperate attempt to

force their way through a great city, where every man was an enemy,

and they were fired at from almost every house. "Our advance was

through streets of flat-roofed and loop-holed houses, each forming a

separate fortress." Our informant told us of the frenzy in the

Residency when they heard the sound of the guns. "The Campbells were

coming" indeed! Sometimes the firing lulled, and it seemed as if they

were driven back. Then it rose again, and came nearer and nearer. How

the tide of battle ebbed and flowed, is well told in the narratives of

those who were actors in the scenes:

"Throughout the night of the 24th great agitation and alarm

had prevailed in the city; and, as morning advanced,

increased and rapid movements of men and horses, gave

evidence of the excited state of the rebel force. At noon,

increasing noise proclaimed that street fighting was growing

more fierce in the distance; but from the Residency nought

but the smoke from the fire of the combatants could be

discerned. As the afternoon advanced, the sounds came nearer

and nearer, and then we heard the sharp crack of rifles

mingled with the flash of musketry; the well-known uniforms

of British soldiers were next discerned."

A lady who was in the Residency, and has written a Diary of the Siege,

thus describes the coming in of the English troops:

"Never shall I forget the moment to the latest day I live.

We had no idea they were so near, and were breathing the air

in the portico as usual at that hour, speculating when they

might be in; when suddenly just at dusk, we heard a very

sharp fire of musketry close by, and then a tremendous

cheering. An instant after, the sound of bagpipes--then

soldiers running up the road--our compound and veranda

filled with our deliverers, and all of us shaking hands

frantically, and exchanging fervent 'God bless you's' with

the gallant men and officers of the 78th Highlanders. Sir

James Outram and staff were the next to come in, and the

state of joyful confusion and excitement was beyond all

description. The big, rough-bearded soldiers were seizing

the little children out of our arms, kissing them, with

tears rolling down their cheeks, and thanking God they had

come in time to save them from the fate of those at

Cawnpore. We were all rushing about to give the poor fellows

drinks of water, for they were perfectly exhausted; and tea

was made down in the Tye-khana, of which a large party of

tired, thirsty officers partook, without milk or sugar. We

had nothing to give them to eat. Every one's tongue seemed

going at once with so much to ask and to tell; and the faces

of utter strangers beamed upon each other like those of

dearest friends and brothers."

It was indeed a great deliverance, but the danger was not over. Of all

that were in the Residency when the siege began, three months before,

more than half were gone. Out of twenty-two hundred but nine hundred

were left, and of these less than one-half were fighting men. Even

with the reinforcement of Havelock the garrison was still far too

small to hold such a position in the midst of a city of such a

population. The siege went on for two months longer. The final relief

did not come till Sir Colin Campbell, arriving with a larger force,

again fought his way through the city. The atrocities of the Sepoys

had produced such a feeling that he could hardly restrain his

soldiers. Remembering the murders and massacres of their countrymen

and countrywomen, they fought with a savage fury. In one walled

enclosure, which they carried by storm, were two thousand Sepoys, and

they killed every man!

Even then the work was not completed. Scarcely had Sir Colin Campbell

entered the Residency before he decided upon its evacuation. Again the

movement was executed at midnight, in silence and in darkness. While

the watch-fires were kept burning to deceive the enemy, the men filed

out of the gates, with the women and children in the centre of the

column, and moving softly and quickly through a narrow lane, in the

morning they were several miles from the city, in a strong position,

which made them safe from attack.

The joy of this hour of deliverance was saddened by the death of

Havelock. He had passed through all the dangers of battle and siege,

only to die at last of disease, brought on by the hardships and

exposures of the last few months. But his work was done. He had

nothing to do but to die. To his friend, Sir James Outram, who came to

see him, he stretched out his hand and said: "For more than forty

years I have so ruled my life, that when death came, I might face it

without fear."

The garrison was saved, but the city was still in the hands of the

Rebels, who were as defiant as ever. It was some months before Sir

Colin Campbell gathered forces sufficient for the final and crushing

blow. Indeed it was not till winter that he had collected a really

formidable army. Then he moved on the city in force and carried it by

storm. Two days of terrible fighting gave him the mastery of Lucknow,

and the British flag was once more raised over the capital of Oude,

where it has floated in triumph unto this day.

But the chief interest gathers about the earlier defence. The siege of

Lucknow is one of the most thrilling events in modern history, and may

well be remembered with pride by all who took part in it. A few weeks

before we were here the Prince of Wales had made his visit to Lucknow,

and requested that the survivors of the siege might be presented to

him. Mr. Mudge was present at the interview, and told me he had never

witnessed a more affecting scene than when these brave old soldiers,

the wrecks of the war, some of them bearing the marks of their wounds,

came up to the Prince, and received his warmest thanks for their

courage and fidelity.

These heroic memories were fresh in mind as we took our morning walk

in Lucknow, along the very street by which Havelock had fought his way

through the city. The Residency is now a ruin, its walls shattered by

shot and shell. But the ruins are overrun with vines and creeping

plants, and are beautiful even in their decay. With sad interest we

visited the spot where Sir Henry Lawrence was struck by the fatal

shell, and the cemetery in which he is buried. He was a Christian

soldier and before his death received the communion. He asked that no

eulogy might be written on his tomb, but only these words: "Here lies

Henry Lawrence, who tried to do his duty. May God have mercy on his

soul." This dying utterance is inscribed on the plain slab of marble

that covers his dust. It is enough. No epitaph could say more. As I

stood there and read these simple words and thought of the noble dead,

my eyes were full of tears. With such a consciousness of duty done,

who could fear to die? How well do these words express that which

should be the highest end of human ambition. Happy will it be for any

man of whom, when he has passed from the world, it can with truth be

written above his grave, "Here lies one who tried to do his duty!"

FOOTNOTE:

[7] As the historian of the mutiny has frequent occasion to speak of

the treachery of the Sepoys, it should not be forgotten that to this

there were splendid exceptions; that some were "found faithful among

the faithless." Even in the regiments that mutinied there were some

who were not carried away by the general madness; and, when the little

remnant of English soldiers retreated into the Residency, these loyal

natives went with them, and shared all the dangers and hardships of

the siege. Even after it was begun, they were exposed to every

temptation to seduce them from their allegiance; for as the lines of

the besiegers drew closer to the Residency and hemmed it in on every

side, the assailants were so near that they could talk with those

within over the palisades of the intrenchments, and the Sepoys

appealed to their late fellow-soldiers by threats, and taunts, and

promises; by pride of race and of caste; by their love of country and

of their religion, to betray the garrison. But not a man deserted his

post. Hundreds were killed in the siege, and their blood mingled with

that of their English companions-in-arms. History does not record a

more noble instance of fidelity.

From Egypt to Japan · 第 17 / 25 章