CHAPTER LXVIII.

None of us can have as many virtues as the fountain-pen, or half its

cussedness; but we can try.

--Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.

The Duke of Fife has borne testimony that Mr. Rhodes deceived him. That

is also what Mr. Rhodes did with the Reformers. He got them into

trouble, and then stayed out himself. A judicious man. He has always

been that. As to this there was a moment of doubt, once. It was when he

was out on his last pirating expedition in the Matabele country. The

cable shouted out that he had gone unarmed, to visit a party of hostile

chiefs. It was true, too; and this dare-devil thing came near fetching

another indiscretion out of the poet laureate. It would have been too

bad, for when the facts were all in, it turned out that there was a lady

along, too, and she also was unarmed.

In the opinion of many people Mr. Rhodes is South Africa; others think he

is only a large part of it. These latter consider that South Africa

consists of Table Mountain, the diamond mines, the Johannesburg gold

fields, and Cecil Rhodes. The gold fields are wonderful in every way.

In seven or eight years they built up, in a desert, a city of a hundred

thousand inhabitants, counting white and black together; and not the

ordinary mining city of wooden shanties, but a city made out of lasting

material. Nowhere in the world is there such a concentration of rich

mines as at Johannesburg. Mr. Bonamici, my manager there, gave me a

small gold brick with some statistics engraved upon it which record the

output of gold from the early days to July, 1895, and exhibit the strides

which have been made in the development of the industry; in 1888 the

output was $4,162,440; the output of the next five and a half years was

(total: $17,585,894); for the single year ending with June, 1895, it was

$45,553,700.

The capital which has developed the mines came from England, the mining

engineers from America. This is the case with the diamond mines also.

South Africa seems to be the heaven of the American scientific mining

engineer. He gets the choicest places, and keeps them. His salary is

not based upon what he would get in America, but apparently upon what a

whole family of him would get there.

The successful mines pay great dividends, yet the rock is not rich, from

a Californian point of view. Rock which yields ten or twelve dollars a

ton is considered plenty rich enough. It is troubled with base metals to

such a degree that twenty years ago it would have been only about half as

valuable as it is now; for at that time there was no paying way of

getting anything out of such rock but the coarser-grained "free" gold; but

the new cyanide process has changed all that, and the gold fields of the

world now deliver up fifty million dollars' worth of gold per year which

would have gone into the tailing-pile under the former conditions.

The cyanide process was new to me, and full of interest; and among the

costly and elaborate mining machinery there were fine things which were

new to me, but I was already familiar with the rest of the details of the

gold-mining industry. I had been a gold miner myself, in my day, and

knew substantially everything that those people knew about it, except how

to make money at it. But I learned a good deal about the Boers there,

and that was a fresh subject. What I heard there was afterwards repeated

to me in other parts of South Africa. Summed up--according to the

information thus gained--this is the Boer:

He is deeply religious, profoundly ignorant, dull, obstinate, bigoted,

uncleanly in his habits, hospitable, honest in his dealings with the

whites, a hard master to his black servant, lazy, a good shot, good

horseman, addicted to the chase, a lover of political independence, a

good husband and father, not fond of herding together in towns, but

liking the seclusion and remoteness and solitude and empty vastness and

silence of the veldt; a man of a mighty appetite, and not delicate about

what he appeases it with--well-satisfied with pork and Indian corn and

biltong, requiring only that the quantity shall not be stinted; willing

to ride a long journey to take a hand in a rude all-night dance

interspersed with vigorous feeding and boisterous jollity, but ready to

ride twice as far for a prayer-meeting; proud of his Dutch and Huguenot

origin and its religious and military history; proud of his race's

achievements in South Africa, its bold plunges into hostile and uncharted

deserts in search of free solitudes unvexed by the pestering and detested

English, also its victories over the natives and the British; proudest of

all, of the direct and effusive personal interest which the Deity has

always taken in its affairs. He cannot read, he cannot write; he has one

or two newspapers, but he is, apparently, not aware of it; until latterly

he had no schools, and taught his children nothing, news is a term which

has no meaning to him, and the thing itself he cares nothing about. He

hates to be taxed and resents it. He has stood stock still in South

Africa for two centuries and a half, and would like to stand still till

the end of time, for he has no sympathy with Uitlander notions of

progress. He is hungry to be rich, for he is human; but his preference

has been for riches in cattle, not in fine clothes and fine houses and

gold and diamonds. The gold and the diamonds have brought the godless

stranger within his gates, also contamination and broken repose, and he

wishes that they had never been discovered.

I think that the bulk of those details can be found in Olive Schreiner's

books, and she would not be accused of sketching the Boer's portrait with

an unfair hand.

Now what would you expect from that unpromising material? What ought you

to expect from it? Laws inimical to religious liberty? Yes. Laws

denying, representation and suffrage to the intruder? Yes. Laws

unfriendly to educational institutions? Yes. Laws obstructive of gold

production? Yes. Discouragement of railway expansion? Yes. Laws heavily

taxing the intruder and overlooking the Boer? Yes.

The Uitlander seems to have expected something very different from all

that. I do not know why. Nothing different from it was rationally to be

expected. A round man cannot be expected to fit a square hole right

away. He must have time to modify his shape. The modification had begun

in a detail or two, before the Raid, and was making some progress. It

has made further progress since. There are wise men in the Boer

government, and that accounts for the modification; the modification of

the Boer mass has probably not begun yet. If the heads of the Boer

government had not been wise men they would have hanged Jameson, and thus

turned a very commonplace pirate into a holy martyr. But even their

wisdom has its limits, and they will hang Mr. Rhodes if they ever catch

him. That will round him and complete him and make him a saint. He has

already been called by all other titles that symbolize human grandeur,

and he ought to rise to this one, the grandest of all. It will be a

dizzy jump from where he is now, but that is nothing, it will land him in

good company and be a pleasant change for him.

Some of the things demanded by the Johannesburgers' Manifesto have been

conceded since the days of the Raid, and the others will follow in time,

no doubt. It was most fortunate for the miners of Johannesburg that the

taxes which distressed them so much were levied by the Boer government,

instead of by their friend Rhodes and his Chartered Company of

highwaymen, for these latter take half of whatever their mining victims

find, they do not stop at a mere percentage. If the Johannesburg miners

were under their jurisdiction they would be in the poorhouse in twelve

months.

I have been under the impression all along that I had an unpleasant

paragraph about the Boers somewhere in my notebook, and also a pleasant

one. I have found them now. The unpleasant one is dated at an interior

village, and says--

"Mr. Z. called. He is an English Afrikander; is an old resident, and has

a Boer wife. He speaks the language, and his professional business is

with the Boers exclusively. He told me that the ancient Boer families in

the great region of which this village is the commercial center are

falling victims to their inherited indolence and dullness in the

materialistic latter-day race and struggle, and are dropping one by one

into the grip of the usurer--getting hopelessly in debt--and are losing

their high place and retiring to second and lower. The Boer's farm does

not go to another Boer when he loses it, but to a foreigner. Some have

fallen so low that they sell their daughters to the blacks."

Under date of another South African town I find the note which is

creditable to the Boers:

"Dr. X. told me that in the Kafir war 1,500 Kafirs took refuge in a great

cave in the mountains about 90 miles north of Johannesburg, and the Boers

blocked up the entrance and smoked them to death. Dr. X. has been in

there and seen the great array of bleached skeletons--one a woman with

the skeleton of a child hugged to her breast."

The great bulk of the savages must go. The white man wants their lands,

and all must go excepting such percentage of them as he will need to do

his work for him upon terms to be determined by himself. Since history

has removed the element of guesswork from this matter and made it

certainty, the humanest way of diminishing the black population should be

adopted, not the old cruel ways of the past. Mr. Rhodes and his gang

have been following the old ways.--They are chartered to rob and slay,

and they lawfully do it, but not in a compassionate and Christian spirit.

They rob the Mashonas and the Matabeles of a portion of their territories

in the hallowed old style of "purchase!" for a song, and then they force

a quarrel and take the rest by the strong hand. They rob the natives of

their cattle under the pretext that all the cattle in the country

belonged to the king whom they have tricked and assassinated. They issue

"regulations" requiring the incensed and harassed natives to work for the

white settlers, and neglect their own affairs to do it. This is slavery,

and is several times worse than was the American slavery which used to

pain England so much; for when this Rhodesian slave is sick,

super-annuated, or otherwise disabled, he must support himself

or starve--his master is under no obligation to support him.

The reduction of the population by Rhodesian methods to the desired limit

is a return to the old-time slow-misery and lingering-death system of a

discredited time and a crude "civilization." We humanely reduce an

overplus of dogs by swift chloroform; the Boer humanely reduced an

overplus of blacks by swift suffocation; the nameless but right-hearted

Australian pioneer humanely reduced his overplus of aboriginal neighbors

by a sweetened swift death concealed in a poisoned pudding. All these

are admirable, and worthy of praise; you and I would rather suffer either

of these deaths thirty times over in thirty successive days than linger

out one of the Rhodesian twenty-year deaths, with its daily burden of

insult, humiliation, and forced labor for a man whose entire race the

victim hates. Rhodesia is a happy name for that land of piracy and

pillage, and puts the right stain upon it.

Several long journeys--gave us experience of the Cape Colony railways;

easy-riding, fine cars; all the conveniences; thorough cleanliness;

comfortable beds furnished for the night trains. It was in the first

days of June, and winter; the daytime was pleasant, the nighttime nice

and cold. Spinning along all day in the cars it was ecstasy to breathe

the bracing air and gaze out over the vast brown solitudes of the velvet

plains, soft and lovely near by, still softer and lovelier further away,

softest and loveliest of all in the remote distances, where dim

island-hills seemed afloat, as in a sea--a sea made of dream-stuff and

flushed with colors faint and rich; and dear me, the depth of the sky,

and the beauty of the strange new cloud-forms, and the glory of the

sunshine, the lavishness, the wastefulness of it! The vigor and

freshness and inspiration of the air and the sunwell, it was all

just as Olive Schreiner had made it in her books.

To me the veldt, in its sober winter garb, was surpassingly beautiful.

There were unlevel stretches where it was rolling and swelling, and

rising and subsiding, and sweeping superbly on and on, and still on and

on like an ocean, toward the faraway horizon, its pale brown deepening by

delicately graduated shades to rich orange, and finally to purple and

crimson where it washed against the wooded hills and naked red crags at

the base of the sky.

Everywhere, from Cape Town to Kimberley and from Kimberley to Port

Elizabeth and East London, the towns were well populated with tamed

blacks; tamed and Christianized too, I suppose, for they wore the dowdy

clothes of our Christian civilization. But for that, many of them would

have been remarkably handsome. These fiendish clothes, together with the

proper lounging gait, good-natured face, happy air, and easy laugh, made

them precise counterparts of our American blacks; often where all the

other aspects were strikingly and harmoniously and thrillingly African, a

flock of these natives would intrude, looking wholly out of place, and

spoil it all, making the thing a grating discord, half African and half

American.

One Sunday in King William's Town a score of colored women came mincing

across the great barren square dressed--oh, in the last perfection of

fashion, and newness, and expensiveness, and showy mixture of unrelated

colors,--all just as I had seen it so often at home; and in their faces

and their gait was that languishing, aristocratic, divine delight in

their finery which was so familiar to me, and had always been such a

satisfaction to my eye and my heart. I seemed among old, old friends;

friends of fifty years, and I stopped and cordially greeted them. They

broke into a good-fellowship laugh, flashing their white teeth upon me,

and all answered at once. I did not understand a word they said. I was

astonished; I was not dreaming that they would answer in anything but

American.

The voices, too, of the African women, were familiar to me sweet and

musical, just like those of the slave women of my early days. I followed

a couple of them all over the Orange Free State--no, over its capital

--Bloemfontein, to hear their liquid voices and the happy ripple of their

laughter. Their language was a large improvement upon American. Also

upon the Zulu. It had no Zulu clicks in it; and it seemed to have no

angles or corners, no roughness, no vile s's or other hissing sounds, but

was very, very mellow and rounded and flowing.

In moving about the country in the trains, I had opportunity to see a

good many Boers of the veldt. One day at a village station a hundred of

them got out of the third-class cars to feed.

Their clothes were very interesting. For ugliness of shapes, and for

miracles of ugly colors inharmoniously associated, they were a record.

The effect was nearly as exciting and interesting as that produced by the

brilliant and beautiful clothes and perfect taste always on view at the

Indian railway stations. One man had corduroy trousers of a faded

chewing gum tint. And they were new--showing that this tint did not come

by calamity, but was intentional; the very ugliest color I have ever

seen. A gaunt, shackly country lout six feet high, in battered gray

slouched hat with wide brim, and old resin-colored breeches, had on a

hideous brand-new woolen coat which was imitation tiger skin wavy broad

stripes of dazzling yellow and deep brown. I thought he ought to be

hanged, and asked the station-master if it could be arranged. He said

no; and not only that, but said it rudely; said it with a quite

unnecessary show of feeling. Then he muttered something about my being a

jackass, and walked away and pointed me out to people, and did everything

he could to turn public sentiment against me. It is what one gets for

trying to do good.

In the train that day a passenger told me some more about Boer life out

in the lonely veldt. He said the Boer gets up early and sets his

"niggers" at their tasks (pasturing the cattle, and watching them); eats,

smokes, drowses, sleeps; toward evening superintends the milking, etc.;

eats, smokes, drowses; goes to bed at early candlelight in the fragrant

clothes he (and she) have worn all day and every week-day for years. I

remember that last detail, in Olive Schreiner's "Story of an African

Farm." And the passenger told me that the Boers were justly noted for

their hospitality. He told me a story about it. He said that his grace

the Bishop of a certain See was once making a business-progress through

the tavernless veldt, and one night he stopped with a Boer; after supper

was shown to bed; he undressed, weary and worn out, and was soon sound

asleep; in the night he woke up feeling crowded and suffocated, and found

the old Boer and his fat wife in bed with him, one on each side, with all

their clothes on, and snoring. He had to stay there and stand it--awake

and suffering--until toward dawn, when sleep again fell upon him for an

hour. Then he woke again. The Boer was gone, but the wife was still at

his side.

Those Reformers detested that Boer prison; they were not used to cramped

quarters and tedious hours, and weary idleness, and early to bed, and

limited movement, and arbitrary and irritating rules, and the absence of

the luxuries which wealth comforts the day and the night with. The

confinement told upon their bodies and their spirits; still, they were

superior men, and they made the best that was to be made of the

circumstances. Their wives smuggled delicacies to them, which helped to

smooth the way down for the prison fare.

In the train Mr. B. told me that the Boer jail-guards treated the black

prisoners--even political ones--mercilessly. An African chief and his

following had been kept there nine months without trial, and during all

that time they had been without shelter from rain and sun. He said that

one day the guards put a big black in the stocks for dashing his soup on

the ground; they stretched his legs painfully wide apart, and set him

with his back down hill; he could not endure it, and put back his hands

upon the slope for a support. The guard ordered him to withdraw the

support and kicked him in the back. "Then," said Mr. B., "'the powerful

black wrenched the stocks asunder and went for the guard; a Reform

prisoner pulled him off, and thrashed the guard himself."

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