Though hibernating hedgehogs will remain above ground all the winter,
in the hollows where leaves to cover them have accumulated, most retire
to the rabbit-burrows. They are seldom found when ferreting operations
are going forward, because the ferrets do not care to have dealings
with them--though when hedgehogs are skinned or opened, ferrets
relish their flesh as food. Keepers do not care to carry hedgehogs
home, on account of the many unpleasant things that they distribute
between himself and his ferrets. It is true that gipsies and others
eat hedgehogs, and this is the time when they are in season for those
who appreciate them, being at their fattest, as are all creatures
about to retire for the winter. Gipsies caught trespassing at this
time of year are always ready with the excuse that they are searching
merely for hedgehogs--even if dogs and nets and ferrets happen to be
in their possession. That they prefer hedgehog to rabbit is a tale
for a grandmother. Yet they know well how to make a tasty dish of
hedgehog. They burn off the bristles, split the prickly beast down
his back, and broil him on a forked stick over a fire of wood. That
is the quickest and cleanest way of cooking out of doors; and, for
those who appreciate things grilled, the best. But for those whose
taste is toward cooking with all the natural juices conserved, the
elephant's-foot process is recommended. Take not merely your hedgehog's
feet, but his whole body, "prickliwigs" and all, and encase in a jacket
of clay, and bury in hot ashes. Before serving, peel off the clay and
the prickles at the same time. Of hedgehog also may be made a stew of
savoury brown. So that the stew's beginning may be in keeping with the
traditions of the immortal cooks, take an onion stuck with cloves,
then, having browned your neatly jointed hedgehog in a frying-pan,
by means of a few ounces of butter (together with the clove-stuck
onion), immerse it in good stock, to which add a few chopped truffles,
and any other such appetising things you can lay hands on--a glass
or so of champagne or other good white wine will not be amiss, while
a squeeze of lemon-juice is held to effect a decided improvement. By
simmering, reduce the liquid contents of the cooking-pan by one-half:
and serve hot, garnished with little sippets of toast. Should you tire
of hedgehog cooked in these ways, any of the numerous rabbit recipes
may be applied. It is to be presumed that most people would soon have
enough of the hedgehog dishes.