PERFUMES

"Oh, how much more doth beauty beauteous seem,

By that sweet ornament which truth doth give!

The rose looks fair, but fairer we it deem,

For that sweet odor which doth in it live."

--_Shakespeare._

Women love delicate perfumes as they do silk stockings and violets.

It's just "born in 'em," like their deep-rooted horror of mice and

bills and burglars. From the time when the baby girl sniffs the

sweetness of the powder puff as it fluffs about her soft, pretty neck

until the white-haired lady lovingly fondles the lavender sachets that

lie between the folds of her time-yellowed wedding gown, she loves

sweet odors.

The true gentlewoman never uses strong perfumes, yet her hats and

clothing and handkerchiefs always send forth a faint scent of fragrant

flowers. The odor is so very slight that it does not suggest the

dashing on of perfume, but, instead, bespeaks scrupulous cleanliness of

body and garments, with perhaps an added suggestion of the soft winds

that blow over a clover field. No perfume at all is far better than too

much, for who does not look with suspicious eyes upon the woman who,

when passing one on the street, seems to be in an invisible vapor of

white rose or jockey club--strong enough to work on the streets?

There is a secret about it all, and such a simple one! It is merely

choosing one particular odor and using it in every possible way. There

is nothing sweeter than violet perfume, so suppose I illustrate with

that? Begin by using orris root for your teeth, combined, of course,

with the other necessary ingredients. Then, if you can afford it, get

the expensive imported violet soaps, although as a matter of

beautifying there is nothing better than the pure white castile. The

odor of this, disliked by some, can be entirely done away with by using

a little violet toilet water in the bath and touching the ear lobes

with it afterward.

Then, between the folds of your gowns and in the crowns of your hats

lay little violet sachets, always removing them before the gown or hat

is worn, as the perfume must be faint and delicate. A few drops of

essence of violet will scent your face powder, if it is not already

perfumed, and bath bags of orris--and other good things--will add to

your galaxy of sweet odors. If you use creme marquise or any of the

other delightful cosmetics told about in our beauty book, add a little

essence of violets to them while they are being mixed. Putting it all

in a nutshell: Simply choose your favorite perfume and carry it out in

every detail. For those who are fond of violet I will give the

following recipes:

Creme de la Violettes: Place in a porcelain kettle one ounce each

of white wax and spermaceti, cut in fine shavings. When melted add

to this five ounces oil of sweet almonds and heat, but do not let

boil. Remove from fire and pour in quickly one and one-half ounces

of rose-water in which ten grains of borax has been dissolved. Beat

briskly. When beginning to thicken, add one-half teaspoonful

essence of violets. When nearly cold put in little jars. Use as

cold cream or any general face cosmetic. It is more effective when

applied at night, just after the face is bathed in warm water and

while the flesh is pink and moist.

Perfume--Violettes de Bois:

Essence of violets, five ounces.

Essence of acacia, one ounce.

Essence of rose, one ounce.

Extract of iris root, one ounce.

Oil of bitter almonds, five drops.

Violet Lotion:

Alcohol, four ounces.

Ammonia, one ounce.

Essence of violets, one dram.

Add one teaspoonful of this to a bowl of water when bathing the

face, neck and arms. Hard water is the cause of many bad

complexions, and this will remedy that particular trouble of the

beauty-seeker.

Poudre de Vicomtesse:

Talcum powder, seven and one-half ounces.

Finest starch, one and one-fourth ounces.

Powdered orris root, one and one-fourth ounces.

Oil of orris, ten drops.

Violet Bath Bags:

Two pounds of finely ground oatmeal.

Three ounces of almond flour.

One cake of best white castile soap, shaved fine.

One-quarter pound powdered orris root.

Take one yard of cheese cloth and make it into little bags about

four inches square and fill with the mixture. These will make a

soft white lather, and afterward the face, neck and arms should be

rinsed in water containing a few drops of benzoin. Larger bags can

be made for the regular bath.

For the Teeth:

One-fourth pound of prepared chalk, finely powdered.

Three-fourths ounce pulverized castile soap.

One ounce powdered orris root.

One-half dram oil of sassafras.

One ounce pulverized sugar.

Violet Sachet:

Black currant leaves, powdered, one-fourth pound.

Rose leaves, one-fourth pound.

Cassia buds, one-eighth pound.

Orris, ground, one-half pound.

Gum benzoin, one-eighth pound.

Grain musk, powdered, one-fourth dram.

Mix thoroughly and let stand for one week.

Violet Toilet Water:

Essence of violet, one and three-fourth ounces.

Essence of rose, one-half ounce.

Essence of cassie, one-half ounce.

Alcohol, 14 ounces.

Essence de Fleur d'Oranges:

One-half ounce pure neroli.

One pint alcohol.

One ounce essence of jonquille.

Violet Sachet Powder:

Eight ounces of orris root.

Five drops oil of bergamot.

Three drops oil of bitter almonds.

Four drops oil of rose.

One fluid dram tincture of musk.

Mix thoroughly.

Lavender Sachet Powder:

One pound powdered lavender.

One-quarter pound gum benzoin (powdered).

Six ounces oil of lavender.

Mix.

Heliotrope Sachet Powder:

One-quarter pound rose leaves.

Two ounces tonquin, ground fine.

One-quarter pound pulverized orris root.

One ounce vanilla (powdered).

One-half grain musk.

Two drops oil of almonds.

Mix by fluffing through a sieve.

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