CARE OF THE HAIR

Her luxuriant hair--it was like the sweep of a swift wing in

visions.--_Willis._

Pretty hair can redeem a whole host of irregular features. With little

waves and kinks, and clinging, cunning tendrils that lie close to the

temples, a "crown of glory" will transform an ordinarily plain woman

into one passably good to look upon. If you doubt this, just create a

mental picture of yourself in the last stages of a shampoo! Isn't it

awful? The damp, straight locks hanging in one's eyes, and the long,

fluffy strands, that aren't fluffy at all but as unwavy as a shower

bouquet of macaroni, and the tag ends and whisps sprouting out here and

there like a box full of paint brushes six ways for Sundays--well, one

is always mentally thankful at such times that one's "dearest and best"

isn't anywhere around to behold the horrible sight. But after awhile

the long, damp tresses are patted and fussed over until they are dry,

and then they're combed out and curled up and kinked and twisted, and,

oh, my countrymen, what a change is there! The harsh lines of the mouth

are softened, the eyes look bright and pretty, the complexion comes out

in all its sweetness like the glorious rainbow of a week ago.

It makes all the difference in the world!

But of course you will straightway exclaim: "That's all right to say

about those lucky girls who have nice long tresses, but how about us

poor mortals whose 'crown' consists of eighteen hairs of eighteen

different lengths, and all of them falling out as fast as they can?" To

be sure, conditions do--once in a while--alter cases. But I claim, and

always will claim--till the day comes when beauty matters won't matter

at all--that every woman can have pretty hair if she will take the time

and use the good, uncommon sense which seems necessary to acquire it.

You know, and I know, and every other woman knows, that women treat

their hair as they treat their watches--to unpardonable abuse. Of

course, one's hair isn't dropped on the sidewalk or prodded with

stickpins until the mainspring breaks, but it is subjected to even

deeper and more trying insults. One night, when the little woman is in

a real good, amiable mood, the tresses are carefully taken down,

brushed, doctored with a nice "smelly" tonic, patted caressingly and

gently plaited in nice little braids. The next night it is crimped

until each individual hair has acute curvature of the spine; then it is

burned off in chunks and triangles and squares; it is yanked out by the

handfuls, it is wadded and twisted and tugged at and built up into an

Eiffel tower, and--after a few hours of such torture--the little woman

takes out the sixty odd hairpins, shakes it loose, gets every hair into

a three-ply tangle of its own, and then hops into bed! When she gets up

in the morning she pulls out and combs out more hair than she can make

grow in after seven months' careful treatment.

I tell you that is the one great trouble with women. They will not

stick to one particular method. If they feel like fussing and coddling

they will, but if they're tired or cross or in a hurry to get to sleep,

well, they just let their hair take care of itself. One's tresses need

regular care just as do plants or babies or people. Make up your mind

that you have hit upon the best way to treat your hair and then stick

to it, no matter whether school keeps or not.

To disentangle the hair use only a coarse comb, being sure that every

tooth is smooth and firm, so that it will not tear or split the silky

fibers. The fine comb is a thing of horror, and has no place upon the

dressing-table. It irritates the scalp, bringing forth a prosperity

year crop of dandruff and attendant unhappiness. Added to this, it

splits the hair shafts and injures the roots.

Brushing the hair is sadly overestimated. A dozen or two strong strokes

each night will remove the day's dust and dirt, will promote

circulation and sweep out flaky matter. The brushing must be done

firmly but gently, and not with the violent methods of a carpet

sweeping machine. Really, it is simply appalling the way some women

dress their hair. A few tugs and yanks with a comb of uneven, unsmooth

teeth, a scattering brushing back of scolding locks, some singes here

and there with a red-hot curling iron, a twist, a roll, a pat and the

application of a dozen hairpins, and the hairdressing for the day is

done.

Instead, the comb should be used with gentleness, not dug into the

scalp, as is the practice of some mistaken beskirted mortals. There is

an old saying to this effect: "Wash the scalp, but not the hair; comb

the hair, but not the scalp," which saying, I leave to you, is good

enough to paste in one's hat--or rather on the back of one's hair

brush.

After the brushing each night it is an excellent plan to part the hair

into small strands and wipe off with a cloth slightly moistened. This

is a sort of sponge bath which tones and invigorates the growth.

Combs should never be washed, but cleaned with a stout thread. Brushes,

however, must have frequent washings in warm ammonia water, taking care

to keep the backs dry. They should never be put in the sunlight when

wet, but left to dry in an open window.

Curling irons certainly do heaps of damage. Any woman who has ever

found herself suddenly bereft of a nice fluffy bang, and in its place a

stubby little burned-off fringe, will say that this is true, while

those numerous hair-crimping girls who have known the humiliating and

painful experience of having a hot curling iron do frolics down their

backs can add startling testimony, and, what is more, show disfiguring

scars as proof.

If the iron is used carefully and at proper heat, the hair is not

injured. But certain it is that when the iron is smoking-hot it kills

the life and lovely texture of the hair. Besides, how very ugly and

unkempt those burned little ends look! It was surely not of such that

Pope wrote:

Fair tresses man's imperial race ensnare,

And beauty draws us with a single hair.

Soft papers in which the short locks are wound is a good method for the

girl who singes her top-knot every time she tries to curl a few little

tendrils. Kid curlers are all right, providing the hair does not become

entangled in the small ends, and so have to be torn when the hair is

taken down. There is a certain secret in the hair-curling process which

is too intangible for written description. The hair must not be wound

tightly and the effect must be loose, fluffy and natural.

The great necessity for keeping the hair perfectly trimmed is to rid it

of the split ends, for hair cannot be nice under such conditions. When

the nourishment within each hair shaft does not extend the full length,

then the hair cracks into several finer hairs, and one of these perhaps

resumes the growth. That leaves a rough, bad shaft. The best way to

keep the hair clipped properly is to twist it in rolls and to singe off

all the little ends that stick out.

It is almost impossible to state positively how often the hair should

be shampooed. Oily hair needs a thorough washing every two weeks, while

drier tresses should not be given a bath oftener than once a month.

Half the reason for falling hair, or hair that seems never to grow, is

caused by improper shampooing. The scalp must be kept scrupulously

clean. And I doubt very much whether the soap and soiled water can be

thoroughly rinsed out without the use of running water, the bath spray

being the most convenient means of getting this. How often, after

washing one's hair, one finds a white, sticky substance clinging to the

teeth of the comb! This should never be, and the hair must be

continually washed until it is fluffy and soft and absolutely without

any suggestion of the shampoo. When the hair is very oily a

dessertspoonful of ammonia and a pinch of borax should be added to two

quarts of warm water. This will soften the water and make the soap more

easily rinsed out of the hair. The liquid verbena soap makes a

delightful shampoo. Recipe can be found at the end of this chapter.

When shampooing, rub the lather through the strands gently, and with

the finger tips remove all the little particles of dust and dandruff

which may be clinging to the scalp. And may I gently suggest that you

do not go at the task as if you were scrubbing a grease spot out of a

rug? You must neither dig the scalp with your nails nor wring out your

hair as you would a wash-rag. Try not to get your hair into a more

mussed-up and tangled condition than is absolutely necessary. After

using the bath spray liberally dry with warm towels, then--if

possible--get some one to vigorously massage the scalp. This will

almost invariably prevent one from taking cold. Never begin combing out

your locks until they are nearly dry. A sun bath of twenty minutes is a

good tonic.

Occasionally an egg shampoo is more beneficial than the usual one of

soap. This is especially true when one has just recovered from a fever

or when one's scalp is in an unhealthy condition or afflicted with

dandruff. The rosemary formula is very effective.

Dandruff is nearly always the result of neglect. If the scalp is washed

as frequently as it should be, dandruff is not so likely to accumulate,

although it is a perfectly natural formation. When the hair is

excessively oily or the scalp unusually crowded with dandruff, the

weekly shampoo should not be neglected.

Blond hair should always be washed with the yolk of an egg, as that

will make it keep its golden tints. Mixing the egg with a pinch of

borax and a pint of warm water is a good plan.

Hair dyeing is one of the mistakes of unwise femininity. All dyes

containing either mercury or lead are very dangerous. But why should

women dye their hair? Goodness only knows. One might as well ask why

women fib about their age, or why women shop three hours just to buy a

pair of dress shields. There are some questions of life which we are

destined never to solve. There is nothing lovelier than white hair.

Combine with it a fine complexion and a pair of animated brown eyes and

you have as picturesque a beauty as ever awakened emotions in the heart

of man. But, nevertheless, women moan and wail over every stray gray

hair. They go off downtown and proceed to lug home a cartload of

mysterious bottles which they keep religiously away from hubby's

investigating eye. I won't tell the result of the experience, for it is

too well known. It is a certain episode through which half the women of

forty years have passed--sooner or later. When comes the desire to

transform those little threads of silver into deeper shades remember

the charming lines of Bancroft:

"By common consent gray hairs are a crown of glory, the only object

of respect that can never excite envy."

Unknown washes, as well as dyes, do great mischief. Good health,

wholesome food and proper care of the scalp are the three most

important essentials toward beautiful and luxuriant hair. There are

some simple lotions, harmless and easily prepared, which will assist

the growth and nourish the roots.

The Woman Beautiful; or, The Art of Beauty Culture · 第 32 / 57 题