From the Fleet's Arrival at Teneriffe, to its Departure for Rio de
Janeiro, in the Brazils.
There is little to please a traveller at Teneriffe. He has heard wonders
of its celebrated Peak, but he may remain for weeks together at the town
of Santa Cruz without having a glimpse of it, and when its cloud-topped
head emerges, the chance is, that he feels disappointed, for, from the
point of view in which he sees it, the neighbouring mountains lessen its
effect very considerably. Excepting the Peak, the eye receives little
pleasure from the general face of the country, which is sterile and
uninviting to the last degree. The town, however, from its cheerful
white appearance, contrasted with the dreary brownness of the back
ground, makes not an unpleasing coup d'oeil. It is neither irregular in
its plan, nor despicable in its style of building; and the churches and
religious houses are numerous, sumptuous, and highly ornamented.
The morning of our arrival, as many officers as could be spared from the
different ships were introduced to the Marquis de Brancifort, Governor
of the Canary Islands, whose reception was highly flattering and polite.
His Excellency is a Sicilian by birth, and is most deservedly popular in
his government. He prefers residing at Teneriffe, for the conveniency
of frequent communication with Europe, to the Grand Canary, which is
properly the seat of power; and though not long fixed here, has already
found means to establish a manufactory in cotton, silk, and thread,
under excellent regulations, which employs more than sixty persons, and
is of infinite service to the common people. During our short stay we
had every day some fresh proof of his Excellency's esteem and attention,
and had the honour of dining with him, in a style of equal elegance and
splendor. At this entertainment the profusion of ices which appeared in
the desert was surprising, considering that we were enjoying them under
a sun nearly vertical. But it seems the caverns of the Peak, very far
below its summit, afford, at all seasons, ice in abundance.
The restless importunity of the beggars, and the immodesty of the lowest
class of women, are highly disgusting. From the number of his countrymen
to be found, an Englishman is at no loss for society. In the mercantile
houses established here, it is from gentlemen of this description that
any information is derived, for the taciturnity of the Spaniards is not
to be overcome in a short acquaintance, especially by Englishmen, whose
reserve falls little short of their own. The inland country is described
as fertile, and highly romantic; and the environs of the small town of
Laguza mentioned as particularly pleasant. Some of our officers who made
an excursion to it confirmed the account amply.
It should seem that the power of the Church, which has been so long
on the decline in Europe, is at length beginning to be shaken in the
colonies of the Catholic powers: some recent instances which have taken
place at Teneriffe, evince it very fully. Were not a stranger, however,
to be apprized of this, he would hardly draw the conclusion from his own
observations. The Bishop of these islands, which conjunctively form a
See, resides on the Grand Canary. He is represented as a man in years,
and of a character as amiable as exalted, extremely beloved both by
foreigners and those of his own church. The bishopric is valued at ten
thousand pounds per annum; the government at somewhat less than two.
In spite of every precaution, while we lay at anchor in the road, a
convict had the address, one night, to secrete himself on the deck, when
the rest were turned below; and after remaining quiet for some hours,
let himself down over the bow of the ship, and floated to a boat that
lay astern, into which he got, and cutting her adrift, suffered himself
to be carried away by the current, until at a sufficient distance to
be out of hearing, when he rowed off. This elopement was not discovered
till some hours after, when a search being made, and boats sent to the
different parts of the island, he was discovered in a small cove, to
which he had fled for refuge. On being questioned, it appeared he had
endeavoured to get himself received on board a Dutch East Indiaman in
the road; but being rejected there, he resolved on crossing over to
the Grand Canary, which is at the distance of ten leagues, and when
detected, was recruiting his strength in order to make the attempt. At
the same time that the boats of the fleet were sent on this pursuit,
information was given to the Spanish Governor of what had happened,
who immediately detached parties every way in order to apprehend the
delinquent.
Having remained a week at Teneriffe, and in that time completed our
stock of water, and taken on board wine, &c. early on the morning of
the 10th of June we weighed anchor, and stood out to sea with a light
easterly breeze. The shortness of our stay, and the consequent hurry,
prevented our increasing much any previous knowledge we might have had
of the place. For the information of those who may follow us on this
service, it may not, however, be amiss to state the little that will be
found of use to them.
The markets afford fresh meat, though it is neither plentiful nor good.
Fish is scarce; but poultry may be procured in almost any quantity, at
as cheap a rate as in the English sea-ports. Vegetables do not abound,
except pumpkins and onions, of which I advise all ships to lay in a
large stock. Milch goats are bought for a trifle, and easily procured.
Grapes cannot be scarce in their season; but when we were here, except
figs and excellent mulberries, no fruit was to be procured. Dry wines,
as the merchants term them, are sold from ten to fifteen pounds a pipe;
for the latter price, the very best, called the London Particular, may
be bought: sweet wines are considerably dearer. Brandy is also a cheap
article. I would not advise the voyager to depend on this place for
either his hogs or sheep. And he will do well to supply himself with
dollars before he quits England, to expend in the different ports he may
happen to touch at. Should he, however, have neglected this precaution,
let him remember when he discounts bills, or exchanges English money
here, not to receive his returns in quarter dollars, which will be
tendered to him, but altogether in whole ones, as he will find the
latter turn to better account than the former, both at Rio de Janeiro
and the Cape of Good Hope.
The latitude of the town of Santa Cruz is 28 deg 27 1/2 min north, the
longitude 16 deg 17 1/2 min west of Greenwich.