ORDERED SOUTH

BY a curious irony of fate, the places to which we are sent when health

deserts us are often singularly beautiful. Often, too, they are places

we have visited in former years, or seen briefly in passing by, and kept

ever afterwards in pious memory; and we please ourselves with the fancy

that we shall repeat many vivid and pleasurable sensations, and take up

again the thread of our enjoyment in the same spirit as we let it fall.

We shall now have an opportunity of finishing many pleasant excursions,

interrupted of yore before our curiosity was fully satisfied. It may be

that we have kept in mind, during all these years, the recollection of

some valley into which we have just looked down for a moment before we

lost sight of it in the disorder of the hills; it may be that we have

lain awake at night, and agreeably tantalised ourselves with the thought

of corners we had never turned, or summits we had all but climbed: we

shall now be able, as we tell ourselves, to complete all these unfinished

pleasures, and pass beyond the barriers that confined our recollections.

The promise is so great, and we are all so easily led away when hope and

memory are both in one story, that I daresay the sick man is not very

inconsolable when he receives sentence of banishment, and is inclined to

regard his ill-health as not the least fortunate accident of his life.

Nor is he immediately undeceived. The stir and speed of the journey, and

the restlessness that goes to bed with him as he tries to sleep between

two days of noisy progress, fever him, and stimulate his dull nerves into

something of their old quickness and sensibility. And so he can enjoy

the faint autumnal splendour of the landscape, as he sees hill and plain,

vineyard and forest, clad in one wonderful glory of fairy gold, which the

first great winds of winter will transmute, as in the fable, into

withered leaves. And so too he can enjoy the admirable brevity and

simplicity of such little glimpses of country and country ways as flash

upon him through the windows of the train; little glimpses that have a

character all their own; sights seen as a travelling swallow might see

them from the wing, or Iris as she went abroad over the land on some

Olympian errand. Here and there, indeed, a few children huzzah and wave

their hands to the express; but for the most part it is an interruption

too brief and isolated to attract much notice; the sheep do not cease

from browsing; a girl sits balanced on the projecting tiller of a canal

boat, so precariously that it seems as if a fly or the splash of a

leaping fish would be enough to overthrow the dainty equilibrium, and yet

all these hundreds of tons of coal and wood and iron have been

precipitated roaring past her very ear, and there is not a start, not a

tremor, not a turn of the averted head, to indicate that she has been

even conscious of its passage. Herein, I think, lies the chief

attraction of railway travel. The speed is so easy, and the train

disturbs so little the scenes through which it takes us, that our heart

becomes full of the placidity and stillness of the country; and while the

body is borne forward in the flying chain of carriages, the thoughts

alight, as the humour moves them, at unfrequented stations; they make

haste up the poplar alley that leads towards the town; they are left

behind with the signalman as, shading his eyes with his hand, he watches

the long train sweep away into the golden distance.

Moreover, there is still before the invalid the shock of wonder and

delight with which he will learn that he has passed the indefinable line

that separates South from North. And this is an uncertain moment; for

sometimes the consciousness is forced upon him early, on the occasion of

some slight association, a colour, a flower, or a scent; and sometimes

not until, one fine morning, he wakes up with the southern sunshine

peeping through the _persiennes_, and the southern patois confusedly

audible below the windows. Whether it come early or late, however, this

pleasure will not end with the anticipation, as do so many others of the

same family. It will leave him wider awake than it found him, and give a

new significance to all he may see for many days to come. There is

something in the mere name of the South that carries enthusiasm along

with it. At the sound of the word, he pricks up his ears; he becomes as

anxious to seek out beauties and to get by heart the permanent lines and

character of the landscape, as if he had been told that it was all his

own—an estate out of which he had been kept unjustly, and which he was

now to receive in free and full possession. Even those who have never

been there before feel as if they had been; and everybody goes comparing,

and seeking for the familiar, and finding it with such ecstasies of

recognition, that one would think they were coming home after a weary

absence, instead of travelling hourly farther abroad.

It is only after he is fairly arrived and settled down in his chosen

corner, that the invalid begins to understand the change that has

befallen him. Everything about him is as he had remembered, or as he had

anticipated. Here, at his feet, under his eyes, are the olive gardens

and the blue sea. Nothing can change the eternal magnificence of form of

the naked Alps behind Mentone; nothing, not even the crude curves of the

railway, can utterly deform the suavity of contour of one bay after

another along the whole reach of the Riviera. And of all this, he has

only a cold head knowledge that is divorced from enjoyment. He

recognises with his intelligence that this thing and that thing is

beautiful, while in his heart of hearts he has to confess that it is not

beautiful for him. It is in vain that he spurs his discouraged spirit;

in vain that he chooses out points of view, and stands there, looking

with all his eyes, and waiting for some return of the pleasure that he

remembers in other days, as the sick folk may have awaited the coming of

the angel at the pool of Bethesda. He is like an enthusiast leading

about with him a stolid, indifferent tourist. There is some one by who

is out of sympathy with the scene, and is not moved up to the measure of

the occasion; and that some one is himself. The world is disenchanted

for him. He seems to himself to touch things with muffled hands, and to

see them through a veil. His life becomes a palsied fumbling after notes

that are silent when he has found and struck them. He cannot recognise

that this phlegmatic and unimpressionable body with which he now goes

burthened, is the same that he knew heretofore so quick and delicate and

alive.

He is tempted to lay the blame on the very softness and amenity of the

climate, and to fancy that in the rigours of the winter at home, these

dead emotions would revive and flourish. A longing for the brightness

and silence of fallen snow seizes him at such times. He is homesick for

the hale rough weather; for the tracery of the frost upon his

window-panes at morning, the reluctant descent of the first flakes, and

the white roofs relieved against the sombre sky. And yet the stuff of

which these yearnings are made, is of the flimsiest: if but the

thermometer fall a little below its ordinary Mediterranean level, or a

wind come down from the snow-clad Alps behind, the spirit of his fancies

changes upon the instant, and many a doleful vignette of the grim wintry

streets at home returns to him, and begins to haunt his memory. The

hopeless, huddled attitude of tramps in doorways; the flinching gait of

barefoot children on the icy pavement; the sheen of the rainy streets

towards afternoon; the meagre anatomy of the poor defined by the clinging

of wet garments; the high canorous note of the North-easter on days when

the very houses seem to stiffen with cold: these, and such as these,

crowd back upon him, and mockingly substitute themselves for the fanciful

winter scenes with which he had pleased himself a while before. He

cannot be glad enough that he is where he is. If only the others could

be there also; if only those tramps could lie down for a little in the

sunshine, and those children warm their feet, this once, upon a kindlier

earth; if only there were no cold anywhere, and no nakedness, and no

hunger; if only it were as well with all men as it is with him!

For it is not altogether ill with the invalid, after all. If it is only

rarely that anything penetrates vividly into his numbed spirit, yet, when

anything does, it brings with it a joy that is all the more poignant for

its very rarity. There is something pathetic in these occasional returns

of a glad activity of heart. In his lowest hours he will be stirred and

awakened by many such; and they will spring perhaps from very trivial

sources; as a friend once said to me, the “spirit of delight” comes often

on small wings. For the pleasure that we take in beautiful nature is

essentially capricious. It comes sometimes when we least look for it;

and sometimes, when we expect it most certainly, it leaves us to gape

joylessly for days together, in the very home-land of the beautiful. We

may have passed a place a thousand times and one; and on the thousand and

second it will be transfigured, and stand forth in a certain splendour of

reality from the dull circle of surroundings; so that we see it “with a

child’s first pleasure,” as Wordsworth saw the daffodils by the lake

side. And if this falls out capriciously with the healthy, how much more

so with the invalid. Some day he will find his first violet, and be lost

in pleasant wonder, by what alchemy the cold earth of the clods, and the

vapid air and rain, can be transmuted into colour so rich and odour so

touchingly sweet. Or perhaps he may see a group of washerwomen relieved,

on a spit of shingle, against the blue sea, or a meeting of

flower-gatherers in the tempered daylight of an olive-garden; and

something significant or monumental in the grouping, something in the

harmony of faint colour that is always characteristic of the dress of

these southern women, will come home to him unexpectedly, and awake in

him that satisfaction with which we tell ourselves that we are the richer

by one more beautiful experience. Or it may be something even slighter:

as when the opulence of the sunshine, which somehow gets lost and fails

to produce its effect on the large scale, is suddenly revealed to him by

the chance isolation—as he changes the position of his sunshade—of a yard

or two of roadway with its stones and weeds. And then, there is no end

to the infinite variety of the olive-yards themselves. Even the colour

is indeterminate and continually shifting: now you would say it was

green, now gray, now blue; now tree stands above tree, like “cloud on

cloud,” massed into filmy indistinctness; and now, at the wind’s will,

the whole sea of foliage is shaken and broken up with little momentary

silverings and shadows. But every one sees the world in his own way. To

some the glad moment may have arrived on other provocations; and their

recollection may be most vivid of the stately gait of women carrying

burthens on their heads; of tropical effects, with canes and naked rock

and sunlight; of the relief of cypresses; of the troubled, busy-looking

groups of sea-pines, that seem always as if they were being wielded and

swept together by a whirlwind; of the air coming, laden with virginal

perfumes, over the myrtles and the scented underwood; of the empurpled

hills standing up, solemn and sharp, out of the green-gold air of the

east at evening.

There go many elements, without doubt, to the making of one such moment

of intense perception; and it is on the happy agreement of these many

elements, on the harmonious vibration of many nerves, that the whole

delight of the moment must depend. Who can forget how, when he has

chanced upon some attitude of complete restfulness, after long uneasy

rolling to and fro on grass or heather, the whole fashion of the

landscape has been changed for him, as though the sun had just broken

forth, or a great artist had only then completed, by some cunning touch,

the composition of the picture? And not only a change of posture—a

snatch of perfume, the sudden singing of a bird, the freshness of some

pulse of air from an invisible sea, the light shadow of a travelling

cloud, the merest nothing that sends a little shiver along the most

infinitesimal nerve of a man’s body—not one of the least of these but has

a hand somehow in the general effect, and brings some refinement of its

own into the character of the pleasure we feel.

And if the external conditions are thus varied and subtle, even more so

are those within our own bodies. No man can find out the world, says

Solomon, from beginning to end, because the world is in his heart; and so

it is impossible for any of us to understand, from beginning to end, that

agreement of harmonious circumstances that creates in us the highest

pleasure of admiration, precisely because some of these circumstances are

hidden from us for ever in the constitution of our own bodies. After we

have reckoned up all that we can see or hear or feel, there still remains

to be taken into account some sensibility more delicate than usual in the

nerves affected, or some exquisite refinement in the architecture of the

brain, which is indeed to the sense of the beautiful as the eye or the

ear to the sense of hearing or sight. We admire splendid views and great

pictures; and yet what is truly admirable is rather the mind within us,

that gathers together these scattered details for its delight, and makes

out of certain colours, certain distributions of graduated light and

darkness, that intelligible whole which alone we call a picture or a

view. Hazlitt, relating in one of his essays how he went on foot from

one great man’s house to another’s in search of works of art, begins

suddenly to triumph over these noble and wealthy owners, because he was

more capable of enjoying their costly possessions than they were; because

they had paid the money and he had received the pleasure. And the

occasion is a fair one for self-complacency. While the one man was

working to be able to buy the picture, the other was working to be able

to enjoy the picture. An inherited aptitude will have been diligently

improved in either case; only the one man has made for himself a fortune,

and the other has made for himself a living spirit. It is a fair

occasion for self-complacency, I repeat, when the event shows a man to

have chosen the better part, and laid out his life more wisely, in the

long run, than those who have credit for most wisdom. And yet even this

is not a good unmixed; and like all other possessions, although in a less

degree, the possession of a brain that has been thus improved and

cultivated, and made into the prime organ of a man’s enjoyment, brings

with it certain inevitable cares and disappointments. The happiness of

such an one comes to depend greatly upon those fine shades of sensation

that heighten and harmonise the coarser elements of beauty. And thus a

degree of nervous prostration, that to other men would be hardly

disagreeable, is enough to overthrow for him the whole fabric of his

life, to take, except at rare moments, the edge off his pleasures, and to

meet him wherever he goes with failure, and the sense of want, and

disenchantment of the world and life.

It is not in such numbness of spirit only that the life of the invalid

resembles a premature old age. Those excursions that he had promised

himself to finish, prove too long or too arduous for his feeble body; and

the barrier-hills are as impassable as ever. Many a white town that sits

far out on the promontory, many a comely fold of wood on the mountain

side, beckons and allures his imagination day after day, and is yet as

inaccessible to his feet as the clefts and gorges of the clouds. The

sense of distance grows upon him wonderfully; and after some feverish

efforts and the fretful uneasiness of the first few days, he falls

contentedly in with the restrictions of his weakness. His narrow round

becomes pleasant and familiar to him as the cell to a contented prisoner.

Just as he has fallen already out of the mid race of active life, he now

falls out of the little eddy that circulates in the shallow waters of the

sanatorium. He sees the country people come and go about their everyday

affairs, the foreigners stream out in goodly pleasure parties; the stir

of man’s activity is all about him, as he suns himself inertly in some

sheltered corner; and he looks on with a patriarchal impersonality of

interest, such as a man may feel when he pictures to himself the fortunes

of his remote descendants, or the robust old age of the oak he has

planted over-night.

In this falling aside, in this quietude and desertion of other men, there

is no inharmonious prelude to the last quietude and desertion of the

grave; in this dulness of the senses there is a gentle preparation for

the final insensibility of death. And to him the idea of mortality comes

in a shape less violent and harsh than is its wont, less as an abrupt

catastrophe than as a thing of infinitesimal gradation, and the last step

on a long decline of way. As we turn to and fro in bed, and every moment

the movements grow feebler and smaller and the attitude more restful and

easy, until sleep overtakes us at a stride and we move no more, so desire

after desire leaves him; day by day his strength decreases, and the

circle of his activity grows ever narrower; and he feels, if he is to be

thus tenderly weaned from the passion of life, thus gradually inducted

into the slumber of death, that when at last the end comes, it will come

quietly and fitly. If anything is to reconcile poor spirits to the

coming of the last enemy, surely it should be such a mild approach as

this; not to hale us forth with violence, but to persuade us from a place

we have no further pleasure in. It is not so much, indeed, death that

approaches as life that withdraws and withers up from round about him.

He has outlived his own usefulness, and almost his own enjoyment; and if

there is to be no recovery; if never again will he be young and strong

and passionate, if the actual present shall be to him always like a thing

read in a book or remembered out of the far-away past; if, in fact, this

be veritably nightfall, he will not wish greatly for the continuance of a

twilight that only strains and disappoints the eyes, but steadfastly

await the perfect darkness. He will pray for Medea: when she comes, let

her either rejuvenate or slay.

And yet the ties that still attach him to the world are many and kindly.

The sight of children has a significance for him such as it may have for

the aged also, but not for others. If he has been used to feel humanely,

and to look upon life somewhat more widely than from the narrow loophole

of personal pleasure and advancement, it is strange how small a portion

of his thoughts will be changed or embittered by this proximity of death.

He knows that already, in English counties, the sower follows the

ploughman up the face of the field, and the rooks follow the sower; and

he knows also that he may not live to go home again and see the corn

spring and ripen, and be cut down at last, and brought home with

gladness. And yet the future of this harvest, the continuance of drought

or the coming of rain unseasonably, touch him as sensibly as ever. For

he has long been used to wait with interest the issue of events in which

his own concern was nothing; and to be joyful in a plenty, and sorrowful

for a famine, that did not increase or diminish, by one half loaf, the

equable sufficiency of his own supply. Thus there remain unaltered all

the disinterested hopes for mankind and a better future which have been

the solace and inspiration of his life. These he has set beyond the

reach of any fate that only menaces himself; and it makes small

difference whether he die five thousand years, or five thousand and fifty

years, before the good epoch for which he faithfully labours. He has not

deceived himself; he has known from the beginning that he followed the

pillar of fire and cloud, only to perish himself in the wilderness, and

that it was reserved for others to enter joyfully into possession of the

land. And so, as everything grows grayer and quieter about him, and

slopes towards extinction, these unfaded visions accompany his sad

decline, and follow him, with friendly voices and hopeful words, into the

very vestibule of death. The desire of love or of fame scarcely moved

him, in his days of health, more strongly than these generous aspirations

move him now; and so life is carried forward beyond life, and a vista

kept open for the eyes of hope, even when his hands grope already on the

face of the impassable.

Lastly, he is bound tenderly to life by the thought of his friends; or

shall we not say rather, that by their thought for him, by their

unchangeable solicitude and love, he remains woven into the very stuff of

life, beyond the power of bodily dissolution to undo? In a thousand ways

will he survive and be perpetuated. Much of Etienne de la Boetie

survived during all the years in which Montaigne continued to converse

with him on the pages of the ever-delightful essays. Much of what was

truly Goethe was dead already when he revisited places that knew him no

more, and found no better consolation than the promise of his own verses,

that soon he too would be at rest. Indeed, when we think of what it is

that we most seek and cherish, and find most pride and pleasure in

calling ours, it will sometimes seem to us as if our friends, at our

decease, would suffer loss more truly than ourselves. As a monarch who

should care more for the outlying colonies he knows on the map or through

the report of his vicegerents, than for the trunk of his empire under his

eyes at home, are we not more concerned about the shadowy life that we

have in the hearts of others, and that portion in their thoughts and

fancies which, in a certain far-away sense, belongs to us, than about the

real knot of our identity—that central metropolis of self, of which alone

we are immediately aware—or the diligent service of arteries and veins

and infinitesimal activity of ganglia, which we know (as we know a

proposition in Euclid) to be the source and substance of the whole? At

the death of every one whom we love, some fair and honourable portion of

our existence falls away, and we are dislodged from one of these dear

provinces; and they are not, perhaps, the most fortunate who survive a

long series of such impoverishments, till their life and influence narrow

gradually into the meagre limit of their own spirits, and death, when he

comes at last, can destroy them at one blow.

* * * * *

NOTE.—To this essay I must in honesty append a word or two of

qualification; for this is one of the points on which a slightly greater

age teaches us a slightly different wisdom:

A youth delights in generalities, and keeps loose from particular

obligations; he jogs on the footpath way, himself pursuing butterflies,

but courteously lending his applause to the advance of the human species

and the coming of the kingdom of justice and love. As he grows older, he

begins to think more narrowly of man’s action in the general, and perhaps

more arrogantly of his own in the particular. He has not that same

unspeakable trust in what he would have done had he been spared, seeing

finally that that would have been little; but he has a far higher notion

of the blank that he will make by dying. A young man feels himself one

too many in the world; his is a painful situation: he has no calling; no

obvious utility; no ties, but to his parents. and these he is sure to

disregard. I do not think that a proper allowance has been made for this

true cause of suffering in youth; but by the mere fact of a prolonged

existence, we outgrow either the fact or else the feeling. Either we

become so callously accustomed to our own useless figure in the world, or

else—and this, thank God, in the majority of cases—we so collect about us

the interest or the love of our fellows, so multiply our effective part

in the affairs of life, that we need to entertain no longer the question

of our right to be.

And so in the majority of cases, a man who fancies himself dying, will

get cold comfort from the very youthful view expressed in this essay.

He, as a living man, has some to help, some to love, some to correct; it

may be, some to punish. These duties cling, not upon humanity, but upon

the man himself. It is he, not another, who is one woman’s son and a

second woman’s husband and a third woman’s father. That life which began

so small, has now grown, with a myriad filaments, into the lives of

others. It is not indispensable; another will take the place and

shoulder the discharged responsibility; but the better the man and the

nobler his purposes, the more will he be tempted to regret the extinction

of his powers and the deletion of his personality. To have lived a

generation, is not only to have grown at home in that perplexing medium,

but to have assumed innumerable duties. To die at such an age, has, for

all but the entirely base, something of the air of a betrayal. A man

does not only reflect upon what he might have done in a future that is

never to be his; but beholding himself so early a deserter from the

fight, he eats his heart for the good he might have done already. To

have been so useless and now to lose all hope of being useful any

more—there it is that death and memory assail him. And even if mankind

shall go on, founding heroic cities, practising heroic virtues, rising

steadily from strength to strength; even if his work shall be fulfilled,

his friends consoled, his wife remarried by a better than he; how shall

this alter, in one jot, his estimation of a career which was his only

business in this world, which was so fitfully pursued, and which is now

so ineffectively to end?

Virginibus Puerisque, and Other Papers · 第 8 / 17 题