We now follow down the Usk, and at its mouth upon the Severn estuary is
Newport, in Monmouthshire, where there are large docks and a
considerable trade. The ruins of Newport Castle stand on the western
bank of the river. In the suburbs is Caerleon, where the Romans long had
the garrison-post of the second Augustan legion. The museum here is
filled with Roman remains, and the amphitheatre, called "King Arthur's
Round Table," is alongside. Proceeding westward about twelve miles along
the shore of the Severn estuary, we come to Penarth Roads in
Glamorganshire, sheltered under a bold headland at the mouths of the Ely
and the Taff, and the flourishing Welsh seaport of Cardiff on the banks
of the latter stream. This is the outport of the Welsh coal and iron
region, and the Marquis of Bute, who is a large landowner here, has done
much to develop its enormous trade, which goes to all parts of the
world. Its name is derived from Caer Taff, the fortress on the river
Taff, and in early times the Welsh established a castle there, but the
present one was of later construction, having been built by Robert
Fitzhamon, the Anglo-Norman conqueror of Glamorgan. It was afterwards
strongly fortified, and here the unfortunate Robert, son of William the
Conqueror, was imprisoned for twenty-eight years by his brother Henry
I., his eyes being put out for his greater security. The tower where he
was confined still stands alongside the entrance gateway, and during his
long captivity we are told that he soothed his weariness by becoming a
poet. The ancient keep remains standing on its circular mound, but the
castle has been restored and modernized by the Marquis of Bute, who
occasionally resides there, and has given it a fine western front
flanked by a massive octagonal tower. The moat is filled up, and, with
the acclivities of the ramparts, is made a public walk and garden. In
the valley of the Taff, a short distance from Cardiff, is the famous
"Rocking Stone," standing on the western brink of a hill called
Coed-pen-maen, or the "Wood of the Stone Summit." It was anciently a
Druids' altar, and with a surface of about one hundred square feet is
only two to three feet thick, so that it contains about two hundred and
fifty cubic feet of stone. It is the rough argillaceous sandstone that
accompanies the coal-measures in this part of Wales, and a moderate
force gives it quite a rocking motion, which can be easily continued
with one hand. It stands nearly in equilibrium upon a pivotal rock
beneath. Two miles from Cardiff is the ancient and straggling village of
Llandaff, which was the seat of the earliest Christian bishopric in
Wales, having been founded in the fourth century. Its cathedral, for a
long time dilapidated, has within a few years been thoroughly restored.
All the valleys in the hilly region tributary to Cardiff are full of
coal and iron, the mining and smelting of which have made enormous
fortunes for their owners and developed a vast industry there within the
present century. About nine miles north of Cardiff is Caerphilly Castle,
which has the most remarkable leaning tower in Britain, it being more
inclined from the perpendicular than any other that is known. It is
about eighty feet high, and leans over a distance of eleven feet. It
rests only on a part of its southern side, and maintains its position
chiefly through the strength of the cement. This castle was built by the
De Clares in the reign of Henry III., and large additions were made to
it by Hugh Despenser, who garrisoned it for Edward II. in order to check
the Welsh. It is a large concentric castle, covering about thirty acres,
having three distinct wards, seven gate-houses, and thirty portcullises.
It was here that Edward II. and his favorites, the Despensers, were
besieged by the queen in 1326. The defence was well conducted, and the
besiegers were greatly annoyed by melted metal thrown down on them from
the walls, which was heated in furnaces still remaining at the foot of
the tower. They made a desperate assault, which was partially
successful, though it ultimately failed; and we are told that while in
the castle they let the red-hot metal run out of the furnaces, and,
throwing water on it from the moat, caused an explosion which tore the
tower from its foundations and left it in its present condition. The
fissures made by the explosion are still visible, and it has stood thus
for over five centuries. The castle ultimately surrendered, the king
having previously escaped. The Despensers were beheaded, and their
castle never regained its ancient splendor.