[Illustration: BUTCHERS' ROW, HEREFORD.]
[Illustration: OUTHOUSE WHERE NELL GWYNNE WAS BORN.]
[Illustration: HEREFORD CATHEDRAL.]
From the top of the Malvern Hills the western view looks down upon the
attractive valley of the river Wye, a famous stream that takes its rise
in the mountains of Wales, and after flowing through Herefordshire and
Monmouthshire falls into the Severn. Rising on the south-eastern side of
Plynlimmon, a group of three mountains elevated nearly twenty-five
hundred feet, it is one of five rivers whose sources are almost in the
same spot, but which flow in opposite directions--the Llyffnant,
Rheidol, Dyfi, Severn, and Wye. For miles it is a mountain torrent,
receiving other streams, and flowing eastward through Radnor and
Brecknock, where it is the resort of artists and anglers. It passes near
the burial-place of Llewellyn, the last native Prince of Wales, who died
in 1282, and then, bordered by railway and highway, comes down through
picturesque ravines past Hay and its ruined castle in a beautiful glen
at the base of the Black Mountains, which rise abruptly from its
southern bank. Near Hay, and overlooking the river, are the ruins of
Clifford Castle, which was the birthplace of "Fair Rosamond." Here the
Wye enters Herefordshire, the valley broadens, and the stream gradually
leads us to the ancient town of Hereford, standing chiefly on its
northern bank and in a delightful situation. This city does not lay
claim to Roman origin, but it was nevertheless one of the fortified
outposts of England on the border of Wales, and was often the scene of
warfare. It was walled and vigorously defended, while hostelries and
chapels were erected for the accommodation of pilgrims and other
visitors. Hereford contained the shrines of St. Ethelbert and St. Thomas
Cantelupe, but its chief relic of antiquity is the house that remains of
the "old Butchers' Row," which was originally a large and irregular
cluster of wooden buildings placed nearly in the middle of the locality
known as the High Town. All but one of these houses have been taken
down, and the one that remains shows window-frames, doors, stairs, and
floors all made of thick and solid masses of timber, apparently
constructed to last for ages. A shield over one of the doors bears a
boar's head and three bulls' heads, having two winged bulls for
supporters and another bull for a crest. On other parts are emblems of
the slaughter-house, such as ropes, rings, and axes. Thus did our
English ancestors caricature the imaginary dignity of heraldry. This
attractive old house is a relic of the days of James I. Nell Gwynne was
born in Hereford, and the small cottage in Pipe Lane which was her
birthplace has only recently been pulled down. It was a little
four-roomed house, and an outhouse opening on the Wye, which was
standing in poor Nelly's days, remains. Hereford Cathedral is a fine
Norman structure, begun in the eleventh century and recently restored.
The most imposing portion of the interior is the north transept, which
was built to receive the shrine of Cantelupe. The remains of the Black
Friars' monastery are in the Widemarsh suburb. They consist chiefly of
an interesting relic of that religious order, an hexagonal
preaching-cross standing on a flight of steps and open on each side.
Hereford Castle has disappeared, but its site is an attractive public
walk overlooking the Wye, called the Castle Green.
[Illustration: OLD NAVE, HEREFORD CATHEDRAL.]