[Illustration: CASTLE HOWARD, SOUTH FRONT.]
Starting north-east from York towards the coast, we go along the pretty
valley of the Derwent, and not far from the borders of the stream come
to that magnificent pile, the seat of the Earls of Carlisle--Castle
Howard. More than a century ago Walpole wrote of it: "Lord Strafford had
told me that I should see one of the finest places in Yorkshire, but
nobody had informed me that I should at one view see a palace, a town, a
fortified city: temples on high places; woods worthy of being each a
metropolis of the Druids; vales connected to hills by other woods; the
noblest lawn in the world, fenced by half the horizon; and a mausoleum
that would tempt one to be buried alive. In short, I have seen gigantic
places before, but never a sublimer one." Castle Howard was the work of
Vanbrugh, the designer of Blenheim, and in plan is somewhat similar, but
much more sober and simple, with a central cupola that gives it dignity.
It avoids many of the faults of Blenheim: its wings are more subdued, so
that the central colonnade stands out to greater advantage, and there
are few more imposing country-houses in England than this palace of the
Howards. This family are scions of the ducal house of Norfolk, so that
"all the blood of all the Howards," esteemed the bluest blood in the
kingdom, runs in their veins. The Earls of Carlisle are descended from
"Belted Will"--Lord William Howard, the lord warden of the Marches in
the days of the first Stuart--whose stronghold was at Naworth Castle,
twelve miles north-east of Carlisle. His grandson took an active part in
the restoration of Charles II., and in recompense was created the first
Earl of Carlisle. His bones lie in York Minster. His grandson, the third
earl, who was deputy earl-marshal at the coronation of Queen Anne, built
Castle Howard. The seventh earl, George William Frederick, was for eight
years viceroy in Ireland, resigning in 1864 on account of ill-health;
and it is said that he was one of the few English rulers who really won
the affections of the people of that unhappy country. He died soon
afterwards.
[Illustration: THE OBELISK, CASTLE HOWARD.]
[Illustration: THE TEMPLE, WITH THE MAUSOLEUM IN THE DISTANCE.]
Leaving the railway-station in the valley of the Derwent, and mounting
the hills to the westward, a little village is reached on the confines
of the park. Beyond the village the road to the park-gates passes
through meadow-land, and is bordered by beautiful beech trees arranged
in clusters of about a dozen trees in each, producing an unusual but
most happy effect. The gateway is entered, a plain building in a
castellated wall--this being Walpole's "fortified city"--and, proceeding
up a slope, the fine avenue of beeches crosses another avenue of lime
trees. Here is placed an obelisk erected in honor of John Churchill,
Duke of Marlborough, which also bears an inscription telling of the
erection of Castle Howard. It recites that the house was built on the
site of the old castle of Hinderskelf, and was begun in 1702 by Charles,
the third Earl of Carlisle, who set up this inscription in 1731. The
happy earl, pleased with the grand palace and park he had created, thus
addresses posterity on the obelisk:
"If to perfection these plantations rise,
If they agreeably my heirs surprise,
This faithful pillar will their age declare
As long as time these characters shall spare.
Here, then, with kind remembrance read his name
Who for posterity performed the same."
The avenue then leads on past the north front of the castle, standing in
a fine situation upon a ridge between two shallow valleys. The bed of
the northern valley has been converted into a lake, while on the
southern slopes are beautiful and extensive lawns and gardens. The house
forms three sides of a hollow square, and within, it is interesting in
pictures and ornaments. It is cut up, however, into small rooms and
long, chilly corridors, which detract from its good effect. The
entrance-hall is beneath the central dome and occupies the whole height
of the structure, but it is only about thirty-five feet square, giving a
sense of smallness. Frescoes decorate the walls and ceilings. The public
apartments, which are in several suites opening into each other and
flanked by long corridors, are like a museum, so full are they of rare
works of art, china, glass, and paintings. Much of the collection came
from the Orleans Gallery. There are also many portraits in black and red
chalk by Janet, a French artist who flourished in the sixteenth century.
Some of the paintings are of great value, and are by Rubens, Caracci,
Canaletti, Tintoretto, Titian, Hogarth, Bellini, Mabuse, Holbein, Lely,
Vandyke, Reynolds, Gainsborough, and others. The Castle Howard
collection is exceptionally valuable in historical portraits. The
windows of the drawing-room look out upon extensive flower-gardens,
laid out in rather formal style with antique vases and statues. Beyond
these gardens is seen a circular temple placed upon a knoll, the
"mausoleum" which so moved Walpole. Here the former owners of the castle
are buried, a constant _memento mori_ to the tenants of the house,
though the taste certainly seems peculiar that has made the family tomb
the most prominent object in the view from the drawing-room windows.
[Illustration: GATEWAY, KIRKHAM PRIORY.]
Not far from Castle Howard are the ruins of Kirkham Priory. A charming
fragment of this noble church remains in a grassy valley on the margin
of the Derwent. Here, nearly eight hundred years ago, the Augustinians
established the priory, the founder being Sir Walter l'Espec, one of the
leaders of the English who drove back King David's Scottish invasion at
the battle of the Standard, near Durham. Sir Walter had an only son, who
was one day riding near the site of Kirkham when a wild boar suddenly
rushed across his path. The horse plunged and threw his rider, who,
striking head-foremost against a projecting stone, was killed. Sir
Walter, being childless, determined to devote his wealth to the service
of God, and founded three religious houses--one in Bedfordshire, another
at Rievaulx, where he sought refuge from his sorrows, and the third at
the place of his son's death at Kirkham. Legend says that the youth was
caught by his foot in the stirrup when thrown, and was dragged by his
runaway horse to the spot where the high altar was afterwards located.
Sir Walter's sister married into the family of De Ros, among the
ancestors of the Dukes of Rutland, and they were patrons of Kirkham
until the dissolution of the monasteries. Little remains of it: the
gate-house still stands, and in front is the base of a cross said to
have been made from the stone against which the boy was thrown.
Alongside this stone they hold a "bird-fair" every summer, where
jackdaws, starlings, and other birds are sold, with a few rabbits thrown
in; but the fair now is chiefly an excuse for a holiday. The church was
three hundred feet long, with the convent-buildings to the southward,
but only scant ruins remain. Beyond the ruins, at the edge of the
greensward, the river glides along under a gray stone bridge. At
Howsham, in the neighborhood, Hudson the railway king was born, and at
Foston-le-Clay Sydney Smith lived, having for his friends the Earl and
Countess of Carlisle of that day, who made their first call in a gold
coach and got stuck fast in the clay. Here the witty vicar resided,
having been presented to a living, and built himself a house, which he
described as "the ugliest in the county," but admitted by all critics to
be "one of the most comfortable," though located "twenty miles from a
lemon." Subsequently Smith left here for Somersetshire.