[Illustration: ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.]
Among a multitude of famous objects in London, three stand out boldly
prominent--St. Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, and the Tower. St.
Paul's, the cathedral church of the bishops of London, is the finest
building in the Italian style in Great Britain; but, unfortunately, in
consequence of the nearness of the surrounding houses, no complete
general view is attainable. The first church was built there by King
Ethelbert in 610; it was destroyed by fire in the eleventh century, and
then old St. Paul's was built, suffering repeatedly from fire and
lightning, and being finally destroyed by the Great Fire of 1666. It was
a large church, with a spire rising five hundred and twenty feet. The
money-lenders and small dealers plied their vocations in its middle
aisle, known as Paul's Walk, while tradespeople took possession of the
vaults and cloisters, a baker made a hole in a buttress for his
bakeoven, and several buildings were planted against the outer walls,
one being used as a theatre. The ruins were not disturbed for eight
years after the fire, when Wren began rebuilding, the cathedral being
finished in thirty-five years. The architect, bishop, and master-mason
who laid the corner-stone were all living at the completion--a singular
circumstance. Wren got $1000 a year salary, and for this, said the
Duchess of Marlborough, he was content to be dragged up to the top in a
basket three or four times a week. The building cost $3,740,000, chiefly
raised by subscription. It is the fifth of the churches of Christendom
in size, being excelled by St. Peter's and the cathedrals at Florence,
Amiens, and Milan. In ground plan it is a Latin cross five hundred feet
long, with a transept of two hundred and fifty feet in length; the nave
and choir are one hundred and twenty-five feet wide and the sides one
hundred feet high. The majestic dome, which is the glory of the
cathedral, rises three hundred and sixty-five feet, and the surmounting
lantern carries a gilt copper ball and cross. The grand front towards
the west, facing Ludgate Hill, is approached by a double flight of
steps from an area which contains a statue of Queen Anne. The portico is
in two divisions, with Corinthian columns supporting the pediment, which
bears a _bas-relief_ of the conversion of St. Paul, and has a statue of
St. Paul at the apex, with statues of St. Peter at the sides.
Bell-towers rise from each side of the portico to a height of two
hundred and twenty feet, surmounted by domes. The large bell, "Great
Paul," which has just been placed in the tower, is the heaviest in
England, weighing nearly seventeen tons. Within the cathedral the cupola
has a diameter of one hundred and eight feet, and rises two hundred and
twenty-eight feet above the pavement; around it runs the famous
Whispering Gallery. Beneath the centre of the pavement lie the remains
of Lord Nelson in the crypt, for St. Paul's has been made the mausoleum
of British heroes on sea and land. Here, among others, are monuments to
Napier, Ponsonby, Cornwallis, Nelson, Howe, Collingwood, Pakenham, Sir
John Moore, Abercrombie, Rodney, St. Vincent, and also a noble porphyry
mausoleum for the Duke of Wellington. Some of the heroes of peace also
have monuments in St. Paul's, among them Dr. Johnson, Howard the
philanthropist, Sir Astley Cooper the surgeon, Bishop Middleton, Sir
Joshua Reynolds, Turner, Rennie the engineer, and also Wren. The memory
of the great architect is marked by a marble slab, with the inscription,
"Reader, do you ask his monument? Look around."
[Illustration: ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, SOUTH SIDE.]
[Illustration: THE CHOIR--ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.]
The outside elevation of the cathedral is of two orders of
architecture--the lower, Corinthian, having windows with semicircular
headings, while the upper, Composite, has niches corresponding to the
windows below. The entablature of each story is supported by coupled
pilasters, while the north and south walls are surmounted by
balustrades. Each arm of the transept is entered by an external
semicircular portico, reached by a lofty staircase. Above the dome is
the Golden Gallery, whence there is a grand view around London, if the
atmosphere permits, which it seldom does. Above the lantern is the ball,
weighing fifty-six hundred pounds; above this the cross, weighing
thirty-three hundred and sixty pounds.
[Illustration: WELLINGTON MONUMENT, ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, LONDON.]