occupied as a farmhouse or as a tavern. In 1810 it became the home of
Stephen Jumel, a wealthy New York merchant, whose widow, Madam Jumel,
later gave such wonderful entertainments in the house that the whole
city talked about her. After many years of life alone in the mansion,
in July, 1833, she married Aaron Burr. He was then seventy-two years
old, while she was fifty-nine.
Madam Jumel-Burr lived until July 16, 1865. During her last years she
was demented and did many strange things. For a time she maintained an
armed garrison in the house, and she rode daily about the grounds at
the head of fifteen or twenty men.
The mansion passed through a number of hands until, in 1903, title to
it was taken by the City of New York, on payment of $235,000.
For three years the vacant house was at the mercy of souvenir hunters,
but when, in 1906, it was turned over to the Daughters of the American
Revolution, to be used as a Revolutionary Museum, twelve thousand
dollars were appropriated for repairs and restoration. This amount was
woefully inadequate, but it is hoped that further appropriation will
make complete restoration possible.
The spacious grounds that once belonged to the mansion have been sold
for building lots, but the house looks down proudly as ever from its
lofty site almost opposite the intersection of Tenth Avenue and One
Hundred and Sixty-first Street with St. Nicholas Avenue. The corner
of its original dooryard is now Roger Morris Park.
[Illustration: PHILIPSE MANOR HOUSE, YONKERS, N. Y.
_Photo by A. V. Card, Yonkers_
See page 91]
XVIII
THE PHILIPSE MANOR HOUSE, YONKERS, NEW YORK
THE HOME OF MARY PHILIPSE, IN WHOM GEORGE WASHINGTON WAS INTERESTED
At first glance one would not think that the name Yonkers was derived
very directly from the name of the first settlers of the region, de
Jonkheer Adriaen Van der Donck. When, in 1646, he secured a large
tract of land bounded by the Hudson, the Bronx, and Spuyten Duyvil
Creek, this was called "Colen Donck" (Donck's Colony) or "De
Jonkheer's" (the Young Lord's). As the Dutch "j" is pronounced "y,"
the transition from Jonkheers to Yonkers was easy.
On September 29, 1672, after the death of the original owner, 7,708
acres of the princely estate were sold to three men, of whom Frederick
Philipse (originally Ffreric Vlypse) was one. A few years later
Philipse bought out the heirs of the other two purchasers, and added
to his holdings by further purchases from his countrymen and from the
Indians. On June 12, 1693, he was permitted to call himself lord of
the Manor of Philipsburgh. From that day the carpenter from Friesland,
who had grown so rich that he was called "the Dutch millionaire,"
lived in state in the house he had begun in 1682.
This lord of the manor became still more important in consequence of
the acceptance of his offer to build a bridge over Spuyt-den-duyvil,
or "Spiting Devil" Creek, when the city declined to do so for lack of
funds. The deed given to him stated that he had "power and authority
to erect a bridge over the water or river commonly called Spiten devil
ferry or Paparimeno, and to receive toll from all passengers and
drovers of cattle that shall pass thereon, according to rates
hereinafter mentioned." This bridge, which was called Kingsbridge, was
a great source of revenue until 1713, when it was removed to the
present site. Then tolls were charged until 1759, or, nominally, until
1779.
Part of the Manor House was used as a trading post. Everything
Philipse handled seemed to turn into gold. All his ventures prospered.
It was whispered that some of these ventures were more than a little
shady, that he had dealings with pirates and shared in their
ill-gotten gains, and that he even went into partnership with Captain
Kidd when that once honest man became the prince of the very pirates
whom the Government had commissioned him to apprehend. And Philipse,
as a member of the Governor's Council, had recommended this Kidd as
the best man for the job! It is not strange that the lord of the manor
felt constrained to resign his seat in the council because of the
popular belief in the statement made by the Governor, that "Kidd's
missing treasures could be readily found if the coffers of Frederick
Philipse were searched."
Colonel Frederick Philipse, the great-grandson of Captain Kidd's
partner, enlarged the Manor House to its present proportions and
appearance. He also was prominent in the affairs of the Colony. He was
a member of the Provincial Assembly, and was chairman of a meeting
called on August 20, 1774, to select delegates to the county
convention which was to select a representative to the First
Continental Congress. Thus, ostensibly, he was taking his place with
those who were crying out for the redress of grievances suffered at
the hands of Great Britain. Yet it was not long until it was evident
that he was openly arrayed with those who declined to turn from their
allegiance to the king.
The most famous event that took place in the Philipse Manor was the
marriage, on January 28, 1758, of the celebrated beauty, Mary
Philipse, to Colonel Roger Morris. A letter from Joseph Chew to George
Washington, dated July 13, 1757, shows that--in the opinion of the
writer, at least--the young Virginian soldier was especially
interested in Mary Philipse. In this letter, which he wrote after his
return from a visit to Mrs. Beverly Robinson in New York, the sister
of Mary Philipse, he said:
"I often had the Pleasure of Breakfasting with the Charming
Polly, Roger Morris was there (Don't be startled) but not
always, you know him he is a Lady's man, always something to
say, the Town talk't of it as a sure & settled Affair. I
can't say I think so and that I much doubt it, but assure you
had Little Acquaintance with Mr. Morris and only slightly
hinted it to Miss Polly, but how can you be Excused to
Continue so long in Phila. I think I should have made a kind
of Flying March of it if it had been only to have seen
whether the Works were sufficient to withstand a Vigorous
Attack, you a soldier and a Lover, mind I have been arguing
for my own Interest now for had you taken this method then I
should have had the Pleasure of seeing you--my Paper is
almost full and I am Convinced you will be heartily tyred in
Reading it--however will just add that I intend to set out
to-morrow for New York where I will not be wanting to let
Miss Polly know the Sincere Regard a Friend of mine has for
her--and I am sure if she had my Eyes to see thro would
Prefer him to all others."
While it is true that George Washington went to New York to see the
charming Polly, there is no evidence that he was especially interested
in her.
Colonel Morris later built for his bride the Morris-Jumel Mansion,
which is still standing near 160th Street. Mrs. Morris frequently
visited at the home of her girlhood. The last visit was paid there
during Christmas week of 1776. Her father, who had been taken to
Middletown, Connecticut, because of his activities on the side of the
king, was allowed to go to his home on parole.
In 1779 the Manor House and lands were declared forfeited because the
owner refused to take the oath of allegiance to the Colonies, and
Frederick Philipse, III, went to England.
The property was sold in 1785. Until 1868 it was in the hands of
various purchasers. To-day the Manor House is preserved as a relic of
the days when Washington visited the house, when loyalists were driven
from the doors, and when it was the centre of some of the important
movements against the British troops.
XIX
ST. PAUL'S CHAPEL, NEW YORK CITY
WHERE WASHINGTON ATTENDED SERVICE ON HIS FIRST INAUGURATION DAY
In the New York _Gazette_ of May 14, 1764, appeared this notice
concerning St. Paul's Chapel:
"We are told that the Foundation Stone of the third English
Church which is about erecting in this City, is to be laid
this day. The church is to be 112 by 72 feet."
For two years those who passed the corner of Broadway and Partition
(Fulton) Street watched the progress of the building. On October 30,
1766, it was ready for the first service.
On the opening day there was no steeple, no organ, and no stove. But
those who entered the doors were abundantly satisfied with the work of
the architect, who is said to have been a Scotchman named McBean, a
pupil of Gibbs, the designer of St. Martins-in-the-Fields, London, to
which church the interior of St. Paul's Chapel bears a marked
resemblance. In the account of the opening the New York _Journal and
General Advertiser_ said that the new church was "one of the most
elegant edifices on the Continent."
Between April 13, 1776, when Washington arrived in New York, and
September 15, 1776, when Lord Howe occupied the city, the church was
closed, since the rector did not see his way to omit from the service
the prayers for the king. But when the British took possession of New
York the doors were opened once more. Until the city was evacuated,
November 25, 1783, Lord Howe and many of his officers were regular
attendants at St. Paul's.
Six days after the beginning of the British occupation the church had
a narrow escape from destruction. A fire, which Howe declared was of
incendiary origin, burned four hundred of the four thousand homes in
New York. St. Paul's Chapel was in the centre of the burnt district.
Trinity Church was destroyed, and St. Paul's was saved by the efforts
of its rector, Dr. Inglis. This was the first of five such narrow
escapes. The steeple was actually aflame during the conflagration of
1797, but the building was saved. Three times during the nineteenth
century, in 1820, 1848, and 1865, fire approached or passed by the
chapel.
Immediately after the first inauguration of Washington, at the City
Hall, he walked to St. Paul's to ask God's blessing on the country and
his administration. During his residence in New York, until Trinity
Church was rebuilt, he was a regular attendant at the services. From
1789 to 1791 his diary records the fact many times, "Went to St.
Paul's Chappel in the forenoon." At first he used the pew built for
the Governor of New York, but later, when a President's pew was built,
he moved to this. Canopies covered both pews, while they were further
marked by the arms of the United States and of New York.
Dr. Morgan Dix, in his address at the Centennial anniversary of the
completion of the building, told of an old man who had said to him
that when he was a boy he used to sit with other school-boys in the
north gallery, and from there he would watch the arrival of the
General and "Lady Washington" as they came up Fair Street to the
church, in a coach and four.
In the same address Dr. Dix said: "The church remains, substantially,
such as it was in the first days; alterations have been made in it,
but they have not changed its general appearance. For justness of
proportion and elegance of style, it still holds a leading place among
our city churches, and must be regarded as a fine specimen of its
particular school of architecture. When it was built, the western end
commanded an uninterrupted view of the river and the Jersey shore, for
the waters of the Hudson then flowed up to the line of Greenwich
Street, all beyond is made land."
In the portico of the old church is a monument to General Montgomery,
a member of St. Paul's parish, who fell at Quebec, and is buried in
the chapel. This monument, which was sent from France by Benjamin
Franklin, had an adventurous career. The vessel in which it was
shipped was captured by the British, and some time elapsed before it
reached its destined place.
[Illustration: FRAUNCES' TAVERN, NEW YORK CITY
_Photo by Frank Cousins Art Company_
See page 97]
XX
FRAUNCES' TAVERN, NEW YORK CITY
WHERE WASHINGTON TOOK LEAVE OF HIS SOLDIERS
The subscribers of the _Pennsylvania Packet_, on the morning of
December 2, 1783, read the following pleasing despatch from New York
City, which was dated November 26, 1783:
"Yesterday in the morning the American troops marched from
Haerlem, to the Bowery lanes. They remained there until about
one o'clock, when the British troops left the fort in the
Bowery, and the American troops marched in and took
possession of the city.--After the troops had taken
possession of the city, the GENERAL and GOVERNOR made their
public entry in the following manner:--Their excellencies the
general and governor with their suites on horseback. The
lieutenant governor, and the members of the council for the
temporary government of the southern district, four
a-breast.--Major-general Knox, and the officers of the army,
eight a-breast.--Citizens on horseback, eight a-breast.--The
speaker of the assembly and citizens, on foot, eight
a-breast.
"Their excellencies the governor and commander-in-chief were
escorted by a body of West Chester light horse, under the
command of Captain Delavan. The procession proceeded down
Queen [now Pearl] Street, and through the Broad-way to Cape's
Tavern. The governor gave a public dinner at Fraunces'
tavern; and which the commander-in-chief, and other general
officers were present."
The building which Washington made famous that day was erected by
Etienne de Lancey, probably in 1700. Samuel Fraunces purchased the
place in 1762. Soon it became one of the most popular taverns in New
York. Among its patrons were some of the leaders in the Revolution, as
well as many who were loyal to King George. But Fraunces himself never
wavered in his allegiance to the Colonies.
One of the clubs that met regularly at Fraunces' was the Social Club,
of which John Jay, Gouverneur Morris, and Robert R. Livingston were
members.
During the occupation of New York by the British the tavern did not
have an opportunity to play a part in the history of the country,
though the daughter of the proprietor, who was a tavern keeper at
Washington's Richmond Hill headquarters, made ineffective a plot to
poison the Commander-in-Chief.
Ten days after Washington's triumphal entry into the city, and the
dinner at the tavern, one of the rooms was the scene of a historic
event of which Rivington's _New York Gazette_ told in these words:
"Last Thursday noon (December 4) the principal officers of
the army in town assembled at Fraunces' tavern to take a
final leave of their illustrious, gracious and much loved
comrade, General Washington. The passions of human nature
were never more tenderly agitated than in this interesting
and distressful scene. His excellency, having filled a glass
of wine, thus addressed his brave fellow-soldiers:
"'With an heart full of love and gratitude I now take leave
of you: I most devoutly wish that your latter days may be as
prosperous and happy as your former ones have been glorious
and honorable.'
"These words produced extreme sensibility on both sides; they
were answered by warm expressions, and fervent wishes, from
the gentlemen of the army, whose truly pathetic feelings it
is not in our power to convey to the reader. Soon after this
scene was closed, his excellency the Governor, the honorable
the Council and Citizens of the first distinction waited on
the general and in terms the most affectionate took their
leave."
Two years later Fraunces sold the tavern, but it retains his name to
this day. It is still at the corner of Broad and Pearl streets. Many
changes have been made in the building, under the direction of the
Sons of the Revolution, and it will continue to attract visitors as
long as it stands.
XXI
THE GRANGE, NEW YORK CITY
WHERE ALEXANDER HAMILTON SPENT HIS LAST YEARS
After nineteen years of moving from house to house and from city to
city, Alexander Hamilton made up his mind to have a home of his own.
In 1780 he had taken Elizabeth Schuyler from a mansion in Albany that
was, in its day, almost a palace; and in 1799 he felt that the time
had come to give her a home of corresponding comfort.
At this time he was commander-in-chief of the army of the United
States, a service that was made notable, among other things, by his
suggestion and preparation of plans for the West Point Military
Academy.
The chosen site for the house, nine miles from Bowling Green, was
bounded by the present St. Nicholas and Tenth Avenues and 141st and
145th streets. The coach from New York to Albany afforded regular
transportation to the spot, though, of course, Hamilton had his own
equipage. When he planned the house he thought his income of $12,000
would be ample to care for the property. Accordingly he felt justified
in offering L800 for sixteen acres, one-half of which was to be paid
in cash, the balance within a year.
The architect chosen was John McComb, the designer of New York's old
City Hall. Hamilton and his father-in-law, General Schuyler, had a
hand in the development of the plans. In a letter to Hamilton, written
August 25, 1800, General Schuyler said:
"If the house is boarded on the outside, and the clapboards
put on, and filled on the inside with brick, I am persuaded
no water will pass to the brick. If the clapboards are well
painted, and filling in with brick will be little if any more
expensive than lath and plaister, the former will prevent the
nuisance occasioned by rats and mice, to which you will be
eternally exposed if lath and plaister is made use of instead
of brick."
The mason's specifications, quoted by Allan MacLane Hamilton, were as
follows:
"Proposal for finishing General Hamilton's Country
House--Viz.
To build two Stacks of Chimneys to contain eight fire-places,
exclusive of those in Cellar Story.
To fill in with brick all the outside walls of the 1st and
2nd stories, also all the interior walls that Separate the
two Octagon Rooms--and the two rooms over them--from the Hall
and other Rooms in both Stories.
To lath and plaster the side walls of 1st and 2nd stories
with two coats & set in white.
To plaster the interior walls which separate the Octagon Room
in both Stories, to be finished white, or as General Hamilton
may chose.
To lath and plaster all the other partitions in both stories.
To lath and plaster the Ceiling of the Cellar Story
throughout.
To plaster the Sidewalls of Kitchen, Drawing Room, Hall &
passage, & to point & whitewash the Stone and brick walls of
the other part of Cellar Story. To Point outside walls of
Cellar Story and to fill in under the Sills.
To lay both Kitchen hearths with brick, placed edge ways.
To put a Strong Iron back in the Kitchen fire-place, five
feet long by 2-1/2 9" high.
To Put another Iron back in the Drawing Room 3'--6" by
2'--9".
To place two Iron Cranes in the Kitchen fire Place--& an Iron
door for the oven mouth.
The Rooms, Hall and Passage of the first Story to have neat
Stocco Cornices--Those of Octagon Rooms of Best Kind (but not
inriched).
To put up the two setts of Italian Marble in the Octagon
Room, such as General Hamilton may choose--and six setts of
Stone Chimney pieces for the other Rooms.
The Four fireplaces in the two Octagon rooms & the two rooms
over them, to have Iron Backs and jambs, and four fire places
to have backs only.
To lay the foundations for eight piers for the Piazza.
Mr. McComb to find at his own expense all the Material
requisite for the afore described work and execute it in a
good & workmenlike manner for one thousand Eight Hundred and
Seventy five Dollars.
General Hamilton to have all the Materials carted and to have
all the Carpenter work done at his expense--
General Hamilton is to find the workmen their board or to
allow ---- shillings per day for each days work in thereof."
One of the workmen on the house was paid $424.50 for three and
one-half years' work. Another laborer was given $152.18 for sixteen
months and twenty-seven days, or ninepence per day. The cost of the
house, complete, was L1,550.
The country place was a joy, both indoors and out. The garden was
especially attractive to Hamilton. In a letter written from The Grange
to a friend in South Carolina, he said:
"A garden, you know, is a very usual refuge of a disappointed
politician. The melons in your country are very fine. Will
you have the goodness to send me some seed, both of the water
and musk melons?"
Guests were numerous. Gouverneur Morris and General Schuyler were
often at The Grange. Chancellor Kent, after a visit paid in April,
1804, wrote to his wife:
"I went with General Hamilton on Saturday, the 21st, and
stayed till Sunday evening. There was a furious and dreadful
storm on Saturday night. It blew almost a hurricane. His
house stands high, and was much exposed, and I am certain
that in the second story, where I slept, it rocked like a
cradle. He never appeared before so friendly and amiable. I
was alone, and he treated me with a minute attention that I
did not suppose he knew how to bestow. His manners were also
very delicate and chaste. His daughter, who is nineteen years
old, has a very uncommon simplicity and modesty of
deportment, and he appeared in his domestic state the plain,
modest, and affectionate father and husband."
The ideal life at The Grange continued only until July 13, 1804. That
morning Hamilton set out as if for the office in the city as usual,
without informing Mrs. Hamilton of the impending duel with Aaron Burr.
At noon the wife was at the side of her husband, who died next day.
After his death there were put in her hands two letters. In these he
told of his purpose to permit his antagonist to shoot him:
"The scruples of a Christian have determined me to expose my
own life to any extent rather than subject myself to the
guilt of taking the life of another. This much increases my
hazards, and redoubles my pangs for you....
"If it had been possible for me to have avoided the
interview, my love for you and my precious children would
have been alone a decisive motive. But it was not possible,
without sacrifices which would have rendered me unworthy of
your esteem."
Mrs. Hamilton remained at The Grange as long as possible, directing
the men in the care of the estate and caring for her children. But she
could not afford to keep a carriage, and the inaccessibleness of the
estate and the drain it made on her limited purse soon made it
necessary for her to rent a house in the city.
Though friends proposed the raising of a fund that would care for Mrs.
Hamilton and the children, it does not seem that there was any relief
until 1816, when Congress gave to Mrs. Hamilton back pay amounting to
ten thousand dollars.
After The Grange was sold to pay debts, its career was checkered. Some
years ago it was moved to the east side of Convent Avenue, and it then
became the schoolhouse of St. Luke's Episcopal Church.
[Illustration: VAN CORTLANDT HOUSE, NEW YORK CITY
_Photo by Ph. B. Wallace_
See page 104]
XXII
THE VAN CORTLANDT HOUSE, NEW YORK CITY
AT THE EDGE OF THE MANHATTAN "NEUTRAL GROUND"
In 1699 Jacobus Van Cortlandt bought the first fifty acres of the
ground now included in Van Cortlandt Park, New York City, and for one
hundred and ninety years the property remained in the Van Cortlandt
family. Until fifty-three years before the first of the Van
Cortlandts acquired it, the Indians were the undisputed possessors of
the plot.
Adriaen Van der Donck, the first settler to acquire title, lived until
his death in the _bouwerie_ or farmhouse, which he built on the shore
of a brook. When Jacobus Van Cortlandt built his _bouwerie_ by the
side of the same brook, he dammed the water to make a mill-pond, which
is to-day the beautiful Van Cortlandt lake. There he built a grist
mill which remained in use until 1889. Early visitors to the lake
delighted to study the ancient structure to which, during the
Revolution, both British and patriot soldiers resorted with their
grain. The mill was struck by lightning and destroyed in 1901.
The third house on the estate was built in 1748 by Frederick the son
of Jacobus, who acquired by the will of his father the "farm, situate,
lying, and being in a place commonly called and known by the name of
Little or Lower Yonkers." This house, which was modelled after the
Philipse Manor House at Yonkers, is still in a fine state of
preservation. Since 1897, it has been used as a public museum, in
charge of the Colonial Dames of the State of New York.