It was a vast monastery and a magnificent one, but it is a monastery no

longer; for centuries it continued to pour out from its inexhaustible

Benedictine store, missionaries, prophets, priests, leaders and

protectors of the people; fostering education, agriculture, the arts;

establishing order, nursing a piety that found its reward in this world

through the consciousness of an ever-widening civilisation, and a

greater reward in heaven. Then the power and wealth grew too great for

the equanimity of princes, and it was robbed by one after another,

oppressed by lay abbots _in commendam_, its Benedictine monks driven out

and secular canons intruded, and finally pillaged by recreant bishops of

the new dispensation of humanism and enlightenment and by that

concentration and apotheosis of the same, Le Roi Soleil, and so handed

over to the emissaries of the deluge that followed him, the attractive

exemplars of revolution, who swept the place clean of books and pictures

and statues and all the hoarded art of a thousand years--yes, even of

the poor ashes of the good saint himself--to make place a half century

later for the ashes and slag of blast-furnaces set up within the

ancient walls, and for the housing of soldiers and their mounts.

Still, the work could not wholly be undone, Luxembourg was a Christian

state and so it remained, through fair days and foul, the fairest being

perhaps those when, united to Flanders and Brabant under the Emperor

Maximilian, it fell into the charge of that great lady and unofficial

saint, Margaret “of Malines,” whose story I have tried to tell

elsewhere.

With the wars of religion this peace and prosperity came to an end and

for two hundred years all the duchy was devastated by all the armies of

Europe, from those of Francis I to the obscene hordes of the French

Republic. It had never revolted against the Catholic religion nor

against its varied rulers, and its reward was a slow and savage

extermination. Cities were burned and their names forgotten; great

abbeys and churches like those of Orval and Clairefontaine were utterly

extinguished; tall castles that crowned every height of land were blown

up with gunpowder; fields and farms became waste land; and through

starvation, massacre, and exile the population was reduced to a tithe of

its former numbers, and at last, by the republic that came to bring

liberty, taxed into an all-engulfing penury.

The era of enlightenment had not been wholly happy in its action on

Luxembourg, but it was free at last, and, in 1867, independent, as it

remained until that memorable day in August, 1914, the day of broken

treaties, when the little Grand Duchess backed her motor-car across the

bridge, closing it with a pathetic barrier in the vain protest of honour

against a force that did not recognise the meaning of the word or the

existence of the thing it signified.

Luxembourg to-day is not a place where one may go to revel in the

artistic memorials of a great past; the great past is there, and its

memory is still green, but even more than Brabant or Champagne has it

borne the grievous harrowing of endless wars and recrudescent

barbarisms, not the least destructive of these visitations being the

nineteenth century in its satisfying completeness, which saw many an

abbey and old haunted castle dismantled, reduced to road-metal, and

carted away for the value inherent in its raw material, or turned to

inconceivably base uses from all of which some pecuniary profit might be

obtained. Once it was as rich in enormous castles as any country in the

world that happily has a mediæval past. Bourscheid on its great hill,

lordly and dominating still and a wilderness of vast crags of masonry,

in spite of all that man could do; Brandenbourg, rigid and riven in its

ring of mountains; Esch, split into towering and sundered fragments on

the raw cliffs overhanging the Sûre; Hollenfel, Clervaux, spared by war

to fall victim to the contemptuous neglect of owners who preferred

pseudo-Gothic villas with all modern conveniences; Beaufort, with its

noble proportions and its beauty of a later and more gracious

mediævalism; Vianden, most fascinating of all with its dizzy gables, and

its chapel still intact in spite of the wide ruin of its surroundings.

And every castle ruin is haunted to heart’s desire, crowded with

attested ghosts whose consistent habits and dependable visitations are a

peculiar joy in a world that until a twelvemonth ago could not believe

in the impossible and promptly discounted the improbable. Any peasant in

Luxembourg knew better, and not only the ruins but the whole duchy is

honeycombed by the midnight prowlings of an entire population of

delectable phantoms, while the stories and legends of their commerce in

the past with lords and ladies and knights and monks and bishops form a

literature in themselves.

In spite of its losses, the land was one of infinite and unfamiliar

charm; a land of wide and high plateaus cut by many winding river

courses, each a possible journey of varying delights. Our and Sûre and

Black Erenz; Alzette and Clerf and White Erenz, with many others of

minor flow, cut the duchy in every direction, all at last finding the

goal of their waters in the magical Moselle, as it flows past old Roman

Trèves on its devious way to the Rhine. And it was a kind of little

earthly paradise as well, for the fifty years of its well-earned peace.

A land of farms and gardens and pastures, of contented little villages

and river-bordered hamlets, and a kindly and devoted people. Coal and

iron have left little mark, though the efficient Baedeker (to whom shall

we go for guidance on our journeys in the long days to come?), in one of

his concise and unpremeditately dramatic paragraphs does say: “18½ M.

_Weilerbach_, for the iron-foundry of Weilerbach and the former

summer-house of the Abbots of Echternach, magnificently situated amidst

wood”--an antithesis of startling illumination. Protestantism passed it

by, except for purposes of plunder, and it has always been unanimously

and enthusiastically Catholic, with a record for public and private

morality that puts any and every other part of Europe to sudden shame.

What is to be its future when the great storm that is cleaning the

soiled world of its dust and ashes of false ideals and burnt-out

superstitions sweeps away into the hollows of a night that is only in

its darkness the promise of a new day? Who shall say? but any one can

weave his vision, and to some it already appears that, with the meting

out of inadequate earthly reward for irreparable bodily suffering, will

come the lands to the east as far as the Kyll, with to the south

Saarbourg, and the far side of the Moselle to the Hochwald, including

ancient Trèves, no longer a forgotten relic of an old imperialism but a

greater and better and more potent Hague, a central city of Europe and

of peace, where, under the united guarantees of all the states, is

permanently sitting a great council of ambassadors for the devising of

measures of common interest, the adjustment of international

differences, the preservation of a righteous peace between nations, and

with authority to suppress any violation of treaties or any wilful

aggression of one state against another, by calling into the field

against the offender all the military and naval forces of all the other

powers signatory to an European Treaty of Permanent Peace and

represented in the council of ambassadors.

Or perhaps Trèves, with surrounding territory within a five-mile radius,

might be erected into an international city of council, surrounded by

Luxembourg, Belgium, which may be extended to the Moselle and eastward

half-way to the Rhine, France, the new frontiers of which would be the

old eastern borders of Alsace and Lorraine, and a restored Palatinate

limited to the north and east by the Rhine and the Moselle. Central in

this circle of guarding states, with all Europe for added defence

against any possible recrudescence of local egoism in any place, Trèves

might again become a great city of refuge and of Christian

righteousness, with noble buildings on its circle of surrounding hills,

a centre of religion and education and mercy, guardian of the peace of

Europe, a living and glorious symbol of the world enlightenment that

came through the clean purging of a war greater than all former wars

because the need was greater.

XVI

EX TENEBRIS LUX

I have tried to give some idea of the contributions of the lands and the

peoples in the western theatre of the war in certain of the fields of

art; to note the development of culture, the direction of human

happenings, the bearing of great men and women who were leaders in

Europe, through an abbreviation of historical records, to justify the

giving to the region between the Seine and the Rhine, the Alps and the

sea, the name of “Heart of Europe.” Such a survey of such a territory

must, of necessity, be superficial and incomplete, for too many and

wonderful things happened there to be recorded in a volume of limited

extent. Chiefly, I have spoken of what could be, and is being,

destroyed, but there is much else that is not subject to annihilation at

the hands of furious men, the contributions to music, to letters, to the

slow-growing spiritual deposit in society through philosophy, theology,

and religion.

In music alone the Heart of Europe has done more, and at different

times, than any similar area. While the troubadours of the twelfth

century came into existence in the sunny lands of Languedoc, it was in

Aquitaine, Champagne, and Flanders that the trouvères developed the norm

of the troubadours “into something rich and strange,” and under the

Countess Marie of Champagne created that beautiful and potent fiction of

“courteous love,” which had issue in so many exquisite phases of human

character and made possible a great school of romantic poets. They,

under the leadership of Chretien de Troyes, made for the Countess Marie,

out of the rude elements that had come from England and Wales through

Brittany, the great poems and romances of King Arthur and his knights.

The greatest of the trouvères was Adam de la Hâle and he was born in

Arras in the year 1240. Long before him, however, Gottfried of

Strasbourg, a contemporary of Chretien de Troyes, had made of the tale

of Lancelot and Guinevere one of the deathless poems of the world, as

Wolfram von Essenbach of Bavaria was to create its great counterpart

from the story of Parsifal.

Very slowly in the meantime music had been working out its wonderful

growth from the classical models of SS. Ambrose and Gregory intermingled

with the instinctive folk-music of the south, and in the fourteenth

century the leadership fell full into the hands of Flanders, where monks

and laymen set themselves to the congenial task of building up a new and

richer music on polyphonic lines. Brother Hairouet, who was at work

about 1420; Binchois, born near Mons and died in 1460; Dufay, born in

Hainault and trained in the cathedral at Cambrai, were all, together

with the English Dunstable, potent leaders in the great work, laying

well the foundations on which a few centuries later was to be erected

the vast and magnificent superstructure of Bach and his successors. In

the second period, that of the close of the fifteenth century, Antwerp

became the centre, Jean de Okeghem, of Termonde, the leader in the

intellectualising of music and the establishing it on methodical lines,

while in the third period, of the end of the fifteenth and the beginning

of the following century, Josquin des Pres led the course back toward a

purer beauty, though through modes that were increasingly clever in

their elaborate virtuosity. After this the lead passed across the Rhine,

with memorable results a century later, when the great cycle, from Bach

to Brahms, rounded itself into a perfect ring.

The era-making movements in religion all began outside our territorial

limits at Monte Cassino, Cluny, Clairveaux, but it was through St.

Benedict of Aniane that Charlemagne at Aix-la-Chapelle effected his

regeneration of the Church and his initiation of a new Christian

education and culture; St. Bruno, of Cologne, sometime head of the

cathedral school of Reims, was the founder of the Order of Carthusians;

St. Chrodegang, Archbishop of Metz, brought into existence the Canons

Regular of St. Augustine, who introduced into cathedral chapters the

order and discipline of monasticism; St. Norbert, of Xanten, created the

Order of Prémontré, one of the most beneficent and beautiful of the

religious brotherhoods of the Middle Ages, while the “Imitation of

Christ,” the most purely spiritual and devotional work of the time, was

the product of Thomas à Kempis, an obscure monk of the Netherlands. In

the development of Christian mysticism the Rhine valley stands

pre-eminent, though the greatest of all those of this school of combined

thought and vision was Hugh of St. Victor, of the monastery of

Augustinian Canons in Paris, on the banks of the Seine, where now is the

Jardin des Plantes, The ancient tradition is that he was born near

Ypres, though recent researches seem to indicate that he may have been a

son of the Count of Blankenburg in Saxony. In any case, he was the great

expositor of sacramental religion and philosophy as Charlemagne’s

Radbertus Paschasus was the great defender of the true doctrine of

Transubstantiation. If, indeed, Hugh of St. Victor was a product of

Flanders, then the credit goes there of having given birth to one of the

noblest and most penetrating minds the world has known, one that ranks

with that greatest pure intellect of all time, St. Thomas Aquinas.

Whether one accepts the mysticism of the Rhine or not does not matter;

it was a potent element in the flowering of Christian piety and the

development of Catholic theology, and Elizabeth of Schönau, Hildegarde

of Bingen, Mary of Ognies, Liutgard of Tongres, Mechtilde of Magdebourg,

are all names that connote a poignancy of spiritual experience that

proves both the personal exaltation of the time and the quality of the

blood that had issue in character such as theirs. This mystical vision

of the holy women of the Rhine is simply an extreme intensification of

the same vision that was given in lesser measure and in different ways

to all the creative artists, philosophers, and theologians of the Middle

Ages, from Othloh of the eleventh to St. Bonaventure of the thirteenth

century, and it had a great part in determining and fixing the artistic

manifestation of this amazing time. Both as a result and an influence it

is vastly important and not to be ignored. Out of it came much of that

marvellous symbolism of the mass and the cathedral so explicitly set

forth by the monk Durandus and Vincent of Beauvais, and for its good

offices here alone the world owes it a deep and lasting gratitude.

One is tempted to go on through other fields where the harvest is

plenteous, but an end must be made, and it is here. There remains the

question of the issue of it all--whether out of this latest devastation

that so adequately follows those of the nineteenth century, of the

French Revolution, of Protestantism and the wars of religion, of the

Hundred Years’ War with England, any compensation may come for the

progressive (and as yet unfinished) destruction of the art records of a

great past. If we consider alone the wide ruin in Flanders and Brabant,

in Artois and Picardy and Champagne, there seems no possible

compensation for what we ourselves knew and now have lost for ever.

Nevertheless, the law of the universe is death that life may come; and

out of this present death that is so immeasurably more wide-spread and

inclusive than any known before, even when the Huns or the Moslems were

on their deadly march across Europe, there should come a proportionately

fuller life, a “life more abundant,” than that which is now in

dissolution. If this is so, if we can look across the plains of death

and immeasurable destruction to the dimly seen peaks of the mountain

frontiers of a new Land of Promise, then we can see Louvain and Liége,

Ypres and Arras, Laon and Soissons and Reims pass in the crash and the

dim smoke of obliteration, content with their tragic destiny, even as we

can see poured out as a new oblation the ten millions of lives, the

tears of an hundred millions of those who follow down into the Valley of

the Shadow of Death.

Is it all a vain oblation? There is the crucial question and the answer

is left with us. This is no war of economic and industrial rivalry, of

jealous dynasties, of opposed political theories; it is not the

inevitable result of a malignant diplomacy from Frederick the Great and

Metternich to Disraeli and the German Kaiser; it is not even the last

act in a drama ushered in by Machiavelli and brought to its denouement

at Pottsdam. All these and myriad other strands have gone to the weaving

of the poisoned shirt of Nessus, but they all are blind agents, tools of

a dominant and supreme destiny by which are brought about the events

that are only the way of working of an unescapable fate. The war is a

culminating catastrophe, but it is as well the greatest mercy ever

extended to men, for it may be made the means of a great purging, the

atonement for the later sins of the world, the redemption from a wilful

blindness and folly that are not consonant with the will of God.

There is a stern propriety in the centring around the Cathedral of Reims

of the first phase of the great conflict, and in its slow and implacable

demolition. Long ago Heinrich Heine, the poet of the German people,

though not himself a German, saw clearly the coming ruin and wrote as

follows:

Christianity--and this is its highest merit--has in some degree

softened, but it could not destroy, the brutal German joy of

battle. When once the taming talisman, the Cross, breaks in two,

the savagery of the old fighters, the senseless Berserker fury of

which the northern poets sing and say so much, will gush up anew.

That talisman is decayed, and the day will come when it will

piteously collapse. Then the old stone gods will rise from the

silent ruins, and rub the dust of a thousand years from their eyes.

Thor, with his giant’s hammer, will at last spring up, and shatter

to bits the Gothic cathedrals.

Better than any other, he has declared the nature of this war that arose

a century after his death. Thor, the impersonation of conscienceless and

unmitigated force, shatters in pieces the Gothic cathedrals because he

and they are antitheses and they cannot exist in the same world. Like

Barbarossa sitting stonily in his dim cave under ground, century after

century, while his beard grows through the rocky table before him,

waiting for the call that will send him forth into the world again,

primitive force and primitive craft have sullenly awaited the day when

the Christian dispensation passes and they issue again into the light.

In the fulness of time their day arrives and their first task is to

destroy the symbol of their ended bondage. With the name of Christ on

their lips and the boast of Christian civilisation in their mouths, the

nations and the peoples forsake Christianity until only the

nomenclature remains and the memorials of its power and glory.

Reims falls, but that which built Reims fell long ago, while the devious

undermining and the blind sapping began even while the last cubits were

being added to its stature, and since then has been only a steady

progression in strength and assurance of its antitheses--of materialism,

intellectualism, secularism, industrialism, opportunism, efficiency;

founded on the coal and iron of the Scar of Europe and on the sinister

and ingratiating philosophy that came out of a re-entrant paganism,

thrived under the fertilisation of an evolutionary empiricism, flowered

in a Nietzsche, a Treitschke, and a Bernhardi. And always it presented

itself in a gracious guise; intellectual emancipation, humanitarianism,

social service, democratic liberty, evolution, parliamentary government,

progress, direct approach of each soul to God. It all sounded fine and

high and noble, and on the 30th day of July, 1914, there could have been

hardly a thousand men in the world, apart from those in the secret, who

would not have said--there were not a thousand in Europe who did not

believe--that man in his regular progress from lower ever to higher

things had achieved a plane where the wars and savagery and lies of the

past were no longer possible.

And in one week from that fateful 30th of July the cloud castle had

dissolved in a rain of blood. Could conviction have come to the world in

any other way? Would the diseased body have reacted to a gentle

prophylactic, could the Surgeon have spared His knife? Since the knife

is used, the answer admits of no dispute, but will it be enough? This is

the question that is asked on every battle-field of a world at war; the

lesson is set for the learning--will the nations learn? In so far as

they have diverged from what Reims stood for; from Leo IX and Gregory

VII and Innocent III; from Edward I and Ferdinand III and Louis IX; from

Eleanor of Guienne and Blanche of Castile and Margaret of Malines; from

St. Bernard, St. Norbert, and St. Anselm; from Albertus Magnus and Hugh

of St. Victor and St. Thomas Aquinas, just so far have they to return,

bringing with them not empty hands but all the great good winnowed from

the harvest of grain and chaff they have reaped in those years of

spiritual and material and national disorder that began when the dizzy

fabric of mediævalism trembled to its base at the exile at Avignon and

“piteously collapsed” between the nailing at Wittenberg and the

sansculotte throning of the “Goddess of Reason” in the desecrated

cathedral of Notre Dame. There is good grain in plenty, but it is sowed

along with the chaff and the tares, and now for the last harvesting the

grain has germinated only to dwindle and die, for the tares have sprung

up and choked it and the red garnering is of tares alone.

Men would think, as they follow the scarlet annals of war, that the

lesson was sufficiently clear even for pacificists to read as they run,

but is it so? France reads and learns, gloriously regenerate, blotting

out the memory of old folly with her blood of sacrifice, turning again

as her first King Clovis was adjured by St. Remi of Reims, destroying

what she worshipped a year ago, worshipping what then, and for two

centuries before, she had destroyed. Again France shows the way,

traversing it with bleeding feet and with many tears; Russia is learning

it, though she had less to unlearn; Belgium must have learned it through

her blind martyrdom; but how of the others? Is England learning, and

Italy; will Germany learn, and Austria; will America learn, standing

aloof from the smoking altar of sacrifice; will the Church learn, there

in trembling isolation while again Peter listens for the crowing of the

cock? If not, if when silence comes down on a decimated, an exhausted, a

bankrupt world, the old ways are sought again and men go on as before,

then the myriad lives and the dreary rain of tears are indeed a vain

oblation, and all will be to do over again. God sets no lesson that need

not be learned, and unless out of it all comes an old heaven and a new

earth, then the lesson is set again, as time after time it was set for

imperial Rome, until a century of war and pestilence and famine broke

down her insolent pride and made from the ruins of her vainglory a

foundation for a new civilisation in the strength of the Christianity

she had denied.

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