The dream empire began to dissolve; Holland revolted, and the Prince of

Orange was restored; Belgium was occupied by the Allies, who had got to

work again, and the scheme of a new state, to be formed of all the old

seventeen provinces united under the Prince of Orange, was brought

forward against the wishes of the Belgians, who preferred the

restoration of Austrian rule. They had lived too close to their

Protestant Dutch neighbours and had too keen a memory of their character

and habits to desire amalgamation with them on any terms.

Napoleon went to Elba, came back, called on his “loyal Belgians” to

support him, advanced into their territories, and at Waterloo lost

everything and melted away into history and legend, leaving Belgium in

unnatural union with the Dutch provinces, where it remained for some

fifteen years, revolting in 1830, making good its rebellion, and

establishing itself as an independent state under the sovereignty of

Prince Leopold of Saxe-Cobourg, who had been elected King on the refusal

of the Duc de Nemours, first chosen by the victorious provisional

government.

The long agony was at an end; it had lasted from August 22, 1567, when

the Duke of Alva entered Brussels, until July 21, 1831, when Leopold I

was crowned King of Belgium, a period of two hundred and sixty-four

years. Other peoples and other states have been brought low, time out of

mind; have suffered, disintegrated, and disappeared. It would be hard to

find another instance, however, where so fabulously rich a people, and

so cultivated withal, so supreme in their achievement of a lofty and

well-rounded civilisation, have been called upon to submit to so

prolonged, varied, and searching an assault, to descend to such depths

of misery, poverty, and degradation--and who yet have preserved through

two centuries and a half of agony and spoliation a tradition and a habit

of righteousness that, when the great test arrived, blazed upward in

sudden fierceness of self-revelation to the confusion of new enemies and

the wonder of a world. What lies beyond awaits the proof, but for the

moment three centuries have dropped away and the old independence, the

old fearlessness, the old honour of Bruges and Ghent, of Liége and

Malines shine again on old battle-fields of new carnage and in new

hearts of old righteousness. The new era begins, and the world waits,

confident of the issue.

V

THE GLORY OF A GREAT ART

BETWEEN Paris and Cologne, Strasbourg and Bruges lies, in little, nearly

the whole history of northern architecture from Charlemagne to the last

Louis of France, when it ceased to be an art and became a fashion. The

greater part of Normandy lies, it is true, across the Seine, and is, for

the time, beyond our field of vision, but, barring Caen, architectural

significance is well concentrated in the triangle, Rouen, Dieppe, le

Havre. The same is true of the old Royaume of France; though Chartres

and Bourges lie to the south, the beginning, and in some sense the

culmination, of Gothic is to be found between Seine and Somme. In the

east, to the Rhine, we have practically all that Germany has

contributed, except in the later days of the Renaissance.

If we like, we may go far beyond the dim and mysterious era of the

Carolings, finding in Trèves old Roman ruins that take us back four or

five centuries earlier, but the real history of this region begins with

Charlemagne and takes us to his favourite city of Aix-la-Chapelle for

the single, but vastly significant, building left us as evidence of his

inspiration and his creative power. With the ending of this day-dream

there comes a great silence, while civilisation and culture disappear

again, to be restored two centuries later, far to the west, and at the

hands of the Normans. Here we find St. Georges de Bocherville, Fécamp,

and the inestimable and forgotten ruins of Jumièges. For transition to

Gothic we have Senlis, Soissons, Noyon, with Laon and Paris as earliest

Gothic of pure and consistent type; Châlons, Amiens, and Reims for

culmination, and Abbeville, Rouen, Beauvais, Troyes, and Strasbourg for

its sumptuous decline.

From the other hand we go on from Aix to Cologne for the fine

eleventh-century work that took up the tale after the second Dark Ages

that followed the ending of the empire of the Carolings, with more

examples at Laach and in Hildesheim, which also are beyond our survey. A

century later we get the consistent Teutonic art of Trèves, Mayence,

Spires, and Worms, while the high Gothic of the noon of mediævalism is

found at Cologne and Strasbourg, with the last rich fantasy of all, in

the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, in Brussels and Antwerp and

Malines, in Courtrai, Tournai, Namur, Louvain, Ghent, Ypres, and Bruges.

For Renaissance we find all we need, and everywhere; churches, palaces,

guild-halls, châteaux, dwellings, from the fanciful transition at

Dieppe, Rouen, Gisors, to the sophisticated, well-conditioned, and

perfectly artificial restored classic of Nancy.

As there is no other country in the north, of equal area, where history

has been made so plenteously and of such varied quality, so it is with

its art, and its architecture in particular, which marks the beginnings,

the culmination, and the close of the three stylistic periods of

Christian civilisation in the West--Carolingian, Norman, and Gothic--and

through monuments singularly significant and equally notable in their

perfection. It would be impossible to quote a tenth of them; there are a

hundred at least, each of which demands (and many have received) a

volume or more, but at least we can pick the most priceless, either for

history or beauty, in a farewell that may be final for all, as already

it is for such consummate and vanished masterpieces as the Cloth Hall at

Ypres and the Cathedral of Reims.

Let us begin with Aix, just over the Belgian

[Illustration: JUMIÈGES]

frontier, the “City of the Great King,” where culture lightened again

after the long night, and where, of all the churches and palaces of the

Emperor, only one remains as evidence of what he did. The royal chapel

has been built onto and over and around, but the original norm remains

in the shape of that polygonal form with surrounding arcades that was a

step in the development of the perfect Gothic chevet. To a great extent

it is a replica of San Vitale in Ravenna, and may very well have been

built by the descendants of those Roman craftsmen who, after the fall of

the one-time capitol of the world, sought refuge either under Byzantine

protection in Ravenna or on Lake Como, where the tradition is they

carefully cherished the traditions and the esoteric mysteries of their

art, perpetuating the slowly fading memory through secret lodges that,

some held, were the progenitors of modern freemasonry.

When the possibilities of a new culture and a restored civilisation

revealed themselves to the conqueror, who was also statesman, patriot,

and (after his dim and flickering light) Christian, two centuries had

left the West a wilderness, and all was to do over again. There were, it

seemed, neither scholars nor artists nor righteous leaders of any sort

in the world, and the task must have appeared hopeless. Charlemagne,

undaunted, sent east and west, from Britain to Spain, searching out

those who, by report, rose above the hopeless level of barbarian

mediocrity. Alcuin of Britain, Peter of Pisa, Theodulphus, Hincmar,

Eriugena, Radbertus Maurus, gathered around him at Aix, forming a

cultural centre, reforming the Church, building up schools, creating an

art almost out of nothing.

There was little enough, though Rome had its basilicas of the time of

Constantine--San Paolo, San Lorenzo, Santa Maria Maggiore; from the

East, it is true, travellers brought back wondering stories of the

splendour of Justinian’s churches, with Hagia Sophia at the head; in

Ravenna were the more modest monuments of the Exarchate--Sant’

Apollinare in Classe, San Vitale--in Istria, at Parenzo and Grado, were

churches showing some new elements probably provided by Lombard

builders, and San Pietro, Toscanella stood like a miracle, novel,

without forebears, a new version of an ancient theme. These are what we

have left, and then there was more, for much has since been destroyed,

but most of it lay far afield, and in the north there was nothing. The

work of co-ordination was well performed, however, and the succession

was re-established; after the chapel at Aix, therefore, architectural

development was continuous, if moderate, though any estimate must be

dubious owing to the almost complete destruction of the monuments. We

still have the apses of Sant’ Ambrogio in Milan; San Donato, Zara, N. D.

de la Couture of Le Mans, and Montier en Der, none of them particularly

inspiring or inspired, and none with any hint of what was suddenly to

happen at Jumièges in the eleventh century. That the latter building may

not have been as amazing an innovation as it appears is indicated by

fragments and foundations of the work that came between it and

Charlemagne, as at St. Martin of Tours, where the Revolution has left us

nothing but foundations indicative of a former superstructure that may

well have been the connecting-link, and might have changed our entire

estimate of the quality of the architecture of the second Dark Ages. As

it is, this chapel at Aix stands not only first in the great recovery of

the eighth century, but almost unique, with no successors for nearly

three centuries.

When the true dawn begins to lighten the hills, it is in the west that

its coming is foreshown, in that Duchy of Normandy, where in a century

the fierce Vikings, who had been driven from the coast of Flanders in

their forays from the Baltic, had become the finely tempered material

out of which was to be forged, by the monks of Cluny, a Catholic

civilisation that was to extend itself over all western Europe and

endure for five centuries. Of the three great abbeys that were the

centres from which radiated the great transforming force, Bec, Fécamp,

and Jumièges, the two latter lie on our side of the Seine, with the

third only ten miles on the other side, while St. Georges de

Bocherville, intact except for its pestilential restoration, is of the

same period, as is Cérisy le Forêt. Caen, with its two abbeys of the

Conqueror, inestimable monuments of architectural history, is well to

the west, with Evreux, Lisieux, Bayeux, and Mont St. Michel, but we have

enough on the right bank to demonstrate the nature and the greatness of

the work accomplished by Cluny and the Normans in a union cemented by a

vital and crescent Christianity.

Jumièges stands first, in its forgotten loop of the Seine, and is

amazing, no less. But for its fine new fourteenth-century chevet, it

was, at the time of the French Revolution, almost in its original state,

but it was destroyed then, with Cluny, Avranches, St. Martin of Tours,

and other priceless monuments, though by no means so completely. To-day

its towering walls, rising above thick trees and greenery, are

startlingly picturesque, but their great value lies in the revelation

they make of what was possible in the earliest days of Christian

recovery. The work was begun in 1040 and finished within twenty-five

years, being followed immediately by the abbeys of Caen, as these were

followed by St. Georges de Bocherville. The original plan was in each

case about the same, the standard type, originally Latin, with Syrian,

and probably Lombard and Carolingian, developments; cruciform, aisled

both in nave and choir, the latter being of two bays only, with an apse,

but no apsidal aisle and chapels as at Tours. The transepts are of two

bays on either side the central tower, the end bays having galleries or

tribunes, with a subordinate apse to the east, so forming, in the lower

stage, small, low chapels. It is in the working upward from this plan

that the significant developments appear, and both here and at Cérisy

le Forêt, we find the order of round-arched arcade, high triforium of

two arches under a containing arch, and a single clerestory window,

Cérisy having as well an open clerestory arcade of three units. The

system is clearly alternating, as in Lombardy and Tuscany, but there is

no evidence that vaulting was ever contemplated; instead, I think it

certain that great transverse arches on every other pier, supporting a

wooden roof, were in mind, after the Syrian fashion, as it was later

modified at San Miniato in Florence, a few years before, though these

were certainly never built at Jumièges. The west front, with its tall,

flanking towers, is of the Como type (query: Is the hand of the Comacine

master visible here?), while all the vertical proportions are more lofty

and aspiring than had ever been known before. As a matter of fact, given

the chevet with its aisle and radiating chapels, which was already being

worked out farther south by the simple process of halving the Syrian,

Byzantine, Ravennesque, and Carolingian polygonal church and attaching

this to the simultaneously developed nave, and you have all the potency

of the Gothic system, the high vault (sexpartite or quadripartite) with

its flying buttresses now to be worked out at Caen, giving the final

structural element, while the expanding Catholic faith and the buoyant

northern blood were woven together to have issue in that essentially

mediæval character which was to transform the whole, infusing it with

that peculiar spiritual quality which gave its distinctive character,

through a new vision of beauty, to the art that had been evolved for the

full expression of a Christian civilisation at last triumphant and

supreme over a dead paganism.

After Cluny and Jumièges, Paris, Bourges, Chartres, and Reims are

inevitable, and the working out of a great destiny is headlong and

almost incredible. Jumièges was finished in 1066, the year of the Norman

conquest of England; Reims was begun in 1212. Within a space of a

century and a half the greatest architectural evolution in history had

taken place, so echoing and voicing an equally unprecedented development

in human character and culture. In 1066, hardly more than fifty years

had passed since Christian society emerged from two centuries of

barbarism; in 1212 it had mounted to the loftiest levels of human

achievement, with a theology, a philosophy, and an art, whatever its

form, with which there had been nothing comparable in the past, with

which the achievements that were to follow, as they now show themselves

in the red light of a revealing war, seem only the insane wanderings of

a disorganised horde.

The sequence of development is well worked out east of the Seine, and at

the hands of the Franks of the “Royaume,” now under the direction of the

Cistercians, as a century before the Normans had been controlled by the

Cluniacs. This constant revivification of monasticism during crescent

periods of human growth is a very interesting phenomenon. Apparently

monasticism, which has accompanied Christianity from its earliest

beginning until to-day, is an essential portion of its working

structure, and if you accept Christianity in fact, you cannot escape

accepting the “religious life” in principle. It seems, however, that it

is always in unstable equilibrium, prone to inevitable decadence, and no

order lasts out three generations without losing its beneficent energy.

When life is on its periodic upward curve, a reformation always occurs

at the critical moment, and there is no loss of impetus; so the original

Benedictinism which had served Charlemagne so well, but had sunk into

worse than inaction, gave place in the eleventh century to the great

Cluniac reform, which in its turn was succeeded by the Cistercian

reform, as this yielded after another hundred years to the reform of St.

Dominic and St. Francis.

Now the Romanesque art of Toulouse, Aquitaine, and Burgundy, the Norman

of Normandy and England, the Rhenish of Germany, were largely

Benedictine of the Cluniac mode, and the style rapidly became

inordinately sumptuous, costly, and magnificent, as at Arles, Toulouse,

Poitiers, Glastonbury, Durham. It has been said of monastic movements:

“First generation pious, second generation learned, third generation

decadent.” Certainly as the Benedictines in France went on to the

twelfth century, their original austerity and fervour were relaxed, and

their art became a thing of splendour as their wealth and learning and

temporal power increased. The Cistercian movement of Robert of Molesme

and Stephen Harding and Bernard of Clairvaux was a revolt against luxury

and laxity, an attempt (as ever) to get back to the supposititious

simplicity of earlier times, and in the success that followed

architecture changed completely, though the ending of the new style, and

even its consummation, were different indeed from what the Cistercian

reforms had desired.

In its beginnings Gothic architecture was an attempt at economy, the

trying for something less massive and ornate than the great Benedictine

piles of inert masonry. By cleverly developing a system of balanced

thrusts, the sheer bulk of masonry was reduced by half, while attention

was drawn away from the fast-increasing ornamentation to the shell

itself, whereby a great gain was effected, and architecture became once

more a study in organism, in composition, and in proportion. Gothic is

primarily the perfection of exquisite organism, almost living in its

consummate integrity and its sensitive interplay of forces. This

perfectly co-ordinated structure is, of course, infused and transfigured

by an intense sense of beauty, quite new in its forms, and given a

spiritual and symbolical content peculiar to itself, the result being

what, for want of a better term, we call Gothic. The two elements cannot

be disassociated, as pedants feign, for, like all great art, it is in a

sense sacramental, and the “outward and visible sign” may never be

separated from the “inward and spiritual grace.”[A]

[A] “Sacramentum est corporale vel materiale elementum foris

sensibiliter propositum ex similitudine repræsentans, et ex

institutione significans et ex sanctificatione continens, aliquam

invisibilem et spiritualem gratiam.”--(Hugo de St. Victoire.)

Both processes may be followed through the great sequence of churches

between the Seine, the Marne, and the Somme--or might have been a year

ago. To-day it is safe to postulate nothing of a dim and ominous future;

we know that much of this galaxy has been destroyed after seven

centuries of careful cherishing through innumerable wars and

revolutions. That all may go is possible, as the power that brought them

into existence has gone, though in this case only for a time. Once,

however, the great and triumphal progress from Jumièges through Noyon,

Senlis, St. Denis, Laon, Paris, Amiens, to its final achievement at

Reims, was a complete and visible record of the greatest and most

headlong advance toward the real things in Christian civilisation by

means of the real things in Christian civilisation history has ever

recorded. Five of these--Senlis, Noyon, Laon, Amiens, and Reims lie

either within the battle lines that have maintained themselves so long,

or at least within sound of the guns; one has been destroyed--Reims; one

thus far preserved--Amiens. The fate of the others is in doubt, together

with that of all the lands that lie to the east, and the danger of

irreparable loss is greater than ever before since the French

Revolution.

There was no better place than this once-lovely region, now hidden from

view in the lurid smoke and the poisoned fumes of a new and demoniac

sort of war, in which to watch the swift growth to a splendid

self-consciousness of Gothic architecture. The elements of Gothic

organism had been developed in the twelfth century by the great

Cluniac-Norman alliance, but this was only a beginning; Gothic quality

was still to be achieved, and this consisted largely in three

elements--cohesion, economy, and character. The first means the

synthetic knitting of everything together, and the giving it dynamic

power to develop from within outward; it means making structure

absolutely central and comprehensive, but also beautiful; ornament,

decoration, remaining something added to it, something of the _bene

esse_, though not of the _esse_; deriving from it in every instance, but

not necessary to its perfection. The second is the reducing of mass to

its logical and structural (and also optical) minimum, bringing into

play the forces of accommodation, balance, and active, as opposed to

passive, resistance. The third is the hardest to describe or determine,

and probably can only be perceived through comparison. It is the

differentiation in quality, the

[Illustration: LAON]

determination of personality, and it is hardly to be defined, though it

is instantly perceived.

In the Abbaye aux Hommes, or Cérisy, or St. Georges de Bocherville, we

find great majesty and beauty, many elements that are distinctive of

true Gothic work and persist through its entire course, but none of

these buildings is actually Gothic. In St. Germer de Fly, however, and

in Sens and Noyon, while there seems at first little differentiation

from the others, the Gothic spirit has found itself and is already

working rapidly toward its consummation.

Of the condition of Noyon at the present time we know little; of what

this may be in a few months’ time we know less. The town itself was of

the oldest, its foundation being Roman, and within its walls Chilperic

was buried in 721, while Charlemagne was crowned King of the Franks

about thirty years before he became Emperor, and Hugh, first of the

Capetian dynasty, was here chosen king in 987. Incidentally, the town

was also the birthplace of John Calvin. The ancient cathedral was burned

in 1131 and the present work begun shortly after, though it is hard to

believe that much of the existing structure antedates the year 1150. The

crossing and transepts date from about 1170, the nave about ten years

later, while the west front and towers are of the early part of the next

century. The certainty and calm assurance of the work is remarkable.

Paris, which is later, is full of tentative experiments, but there is no

halting here, rather a serene certainty of touch that is perfectly

convincing. The plan is curious in that it has transepts with apsidal

ends, after the fashion of Rhenish Romanesque, one of the few instances

in France. The alternating system is used throughout, and the vault was

originally sexpartite; the interior order consists of a low arcade, high

triforium, triforium gallery, and a clerestory comprised wholly within

the vault lines; round and pointed arches are used indiscriminately, and

the flying buttresses are perhaps the earliest that emerged from the

protection of the triforium roofs. In the choir, which is earliest in

date, the ornament is rude, even rudimentary, though distinctly Gothic

in form, but in the nave twenty years has served to change this into

work of the most brilliant and classical beauty. In 1293 the whole town

was destroyed by fire, and the cathedral wrecked; it was immediately

reconstructed, however, and at this time the sexpartite gave place to

quadripartite vaulting, while the west front, with its great towers,

very noble in their proportions and their powerful buttressing, was

completed. This rebuilding and the loss of all the original glass has

left Noyon less perfect than many of the neighbouring churches, but it

still remained a grave and strikingly solemn example of the transition.

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