KILKENNY TO CORK HARBOUR
If Lismore is the most celebrated and stately of Irish castles,
Kilkenny, at least, comes more nearly to the popular conception of the
feudal stronghold of the romancers and poets, and, withal, it is
historic and is second in preeminence, only, to any other in the land.
Kilkenny itself is an ancient city, and it is something of a city as the
minor centres of population go. "Does it not contain," says the proud
inhabitant, "nearly fifteen thousand souls?" It does, indeed, but it is
more justly famous for its archæological remains than for its
manufactures of woollens, which formerly was great.
Probably the most novel impression the stranger will get of Kilkenny
will be that which he gains at the annual agricultural show or fair,
when the effect produced by the cheering of the crowds will sound
unlike anything ever heard elsewhere. It is a fact that this cheering is
peculiar to Kilkenny. These are no hurrahs of the ordinary British kind,
but every time the feelings of the people find a vent, a long, shrill
wail resounds over the fields, rising and falling, at its loudest, like
the shriek of a steamer's siren, and, when more subdued, like the
moaning of a winter wind. Perhaps this is the modern descendant of the
banshee's wail.
The history of the modern political and social events which took place
at Kilkenny, in times past, make curious and interesting reading. Many
"parliaments" were held here, and, in 1367, one of them ordained that
death should be the punishment of any Englishman who married an
Irishwoman. This was manifestly bigoted, uncharitable, and unkind, and
no wonder that here, and elsewhere in Ireland, English domination has so
often been reviled.
Its most famous and important political function took place in 1642,
when was held the Rebel, or Roman Catholic, Parliament, which gave to
Kilkenny the name of "The City of Confederation," though the same act
culminated in its siege by Cromwell, and its ultimate downfall into the
hands of "the Protector." The outcome of all this to-day has been the
indissoluble endearment of Kilkenny to all Irishmen of "the faith."
The history of Kilkenny's famous castle is more acceptable to those who
love Ireland in a familiar way. It is famous, some one has already said,
as being "one of the few places where Cromwell treated an Irish
gentleman politely."
The chronology of this stronghold of the middle ages--still the seat of
the Marquis of Ormonde, the founder of whose ancestors, Theobald
FitzWalter, was one of the retinue of Henry II.--is as follows:
It was built in 1195 on the site of a former edifice, erected by
Strongbow in 1172. Donald O'Brien destroyed it in the following year,
but again it took form as the ancestral home of a race of men whose
members have all figured more or less prominently in Irish annals since
the coming of the Normans.
It is one of the most ancient habitable buildings in the land, and also
one of the most picturesque. Its massive gray towers and ivy-grown walls
stand high upon a natural rampart
[Illustration: KILKENNY CASTLE.]
and overlook the slow-drifting river. The old stone bridge that spans
this river here mayhap was often crossed by Congreve and Swift on their
way to school in the city. Above, the castle rises boldly against the
wistful blue of Irish skies, while at night it looks like a true palace
of enchantment when the moon rises beyond its turrets and towers, and
throws indistinct, distorted, and mysterious shadows on the river's
surface. One feels a sense of complete repose,--but a repose that is
interrupted by the occasional shriek of a locomotive, the drowsy bell of
some convent, or the sharp notes of a military bugle.
A later Theobald became the sixth Butler of Ireland, and was made the
Earl of Carrick. His son was created Earl of Ormonde, and married
Eleanor de Bohun, the granddaughter of Edward I.
The second earl, James, became known as "the Noble Earl," from being the
great grandson of Edward I., and became Lord Chief Justice of Ireland,
and he it was, the second earl of the house of Ormonde,--the direct
ancestor of the present marquis,--who, in 1391, acquired the castle
from another branch, which had sprung from Theobald FitzWalter.
The Ormondes were a true race of noblemen, as history tells, although
their story is too elaborate to chronicle completely here.
The fourth earl, it is said,--by tradition, of course, and in this case
quite unsupported,--was favoured by the sun's having remained stationary
in its course long enough for him to have achieved a victory over a
hereditary enemy.
The fifth earl became Lord High Treasurer of England, but was
unfortunately beheaded, so his career did not end exactly gloriously.
The sixth earl was smitten by the fervour of the Crusades and died in
Jerusalem, and one of the daughters of the seventh earl married Sir
William Boleyn and became the mother of the unfortunate Queen Anne, and
grandmother of Elizabeth.
One of the most famous men of the line was James, the twelfth earl, who,
for services to Charles I., was created a marquis and raised to a
dukedom by Charles II. Bishop Burnett states that "He was of graceful
appearance, a lively wit, and a cheerful temper; a man of great
expense, but decent even in his vices, for he always kept up the forms
of religion; too faithful not to give always good advice, but, when bad
ones were followed, too complaisant to be any great complainer." For
thirty years he was Chief Governor and Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, when
he incurred the hatred of a bold rascal, Thomas Blood, the son of a
black-smith, and a staunch supporter of Cromwell. After the Restoration
even, Blood plotted against royalty, one of his schemes being to
surprise Dublin Castle and to seize the lord lieutenant. This plot was
discovered, and Blood managed to escape, though his accomplices were
hanged. Blood swore that he who ordered their execution should share
their fate. A price was set upon the scoundrel's head, but he came to
London, and set about his vengeance on the Duke of Ormonde.
The Earl of Ossory, the duke's son, joined the invading forces of
William of Orange, fought for him at the Battle of the Boyne, and
entertained him sumptuously at Kilkenny Castle. Later, he became a
favourite of Queen Anne, and succeeded Marlborough as commander-in-chief
of the land forces of Great Britain. Suspected of plotting for the
Stuarts, he was attainted, his estates confiscated, his honours
extinguished, and a price set upon his head by the Parliament of George
I.
The titles being extinguished, the earl's brother was allowed to
purchase Kilkenny Castle; but neither he nor his heirs and successors
assumed the titles until 1791, when the Irish Parliament decided that
the Irish Act of Attainder affected estates only, and not Irish titles,
though the English attainder included the loss of both. The Earldom of
Ormonde, a purely Irish title, was therefore restored to John Butler,
who became seventeenth in the line. The rank due to earls' daughters was
allowed to his sisters, of whom Lady Eleanor became famous as one of the
eccentric recluses known as the Ladies of Llangollen. The eighteenth
earl was created a marquis in 1816.
A writer in a recent review recounts a visit to Kilkenny Castle which
presents a wealth of detail that makes interesting reading for the
inquisitive. Among other things, she says,--assuredly it was a person of
the feminine persuasion who wrote:
"In the evening there was a great reception at the castle of the county
gentry, about four hundred ladies and gentlemen being included. If the
castle was picturesque in the day, it was doubly so at night. The town
itself was illuminated by countless fairy lamps, which marked the lines
of the streets with points of light, and outlined the old stone bridges
which cross the little river Nore, and--as it should--the full moon rose
in a sapphire sky behind the castle, whose shadow fell softly upon the
placid mirror of the water below, and the pale moonlight gleamed upon
the white houses and walls of the lower town. Every hotel and inn--and
there are many from some unexplained reason--was crowded with guests
invited to the castle, while in the doorways one caught glimpses of
officers in uniform and levee dress, and women in white gowns with
jewels that flashed in the lamplight, waiting for their carriages and
coaches to convey them to the castle entrance. Many of their vehicles
were of strange archaic shape, and might have done service in Kilkenny
when William the Silent was the guest of another Lord Ormonde in the
days of long ago. The streets were crowded with Kilkenny folk in quaint
old-world garments,--men in broad-brimmed, low-crowned hats, gray
breeches, and stockings, and others with leaden buckles; women with
shawls over their heads; here and there a monk in brown habit with rope
girdle, and groups of soldiers.
"Meanwhile, at the castle a brilliant scene was taking place in the long
picture-gallery, with its priceless paintings by old masters, where the
guests were being received. In the adjoining dining-room, glowing in the
candlelight, gleamed the wonderful and historic gold plate of Kilkenny
Castle, estimated to be worth a million and a quarter sterling.
"It was much after midnight before the guests left the castle, and far
into the early hours the city of Kilkenny was noisy with the merriment
of its citizens, who were loath to end a day that will be long
remembered in their history."
The above account is quoted here because it seems, to the writer, to
present in a few words the conventionalities of the occasion in a frame
of picturesqueness and environment which similar functions "in town"
lack in almost every way.
[Illustration: ST. CANICE'S STEPS AND THE ROUND TOWER, KILKENNY.]
Certainly, convention is robbed of half its banality and insincerity
under such conditions, and, though most of us know it only in costume
novels, sword-and-cloak dramas, and comic-opera settings, it is
pleasurable to know that such things do really exist to-day.
In our day, Kilkenny Castle has been repaired, preserved, and restored,
as was its due, but with that paternal care and affection which would
not allow a child to be ill or inappropriately dressed. The adaptations
and modernizations have not discounted its grand towers, battlements,
and bastions, and though, chiefly, it is a modern building which
contains the greater part of the domestic establishment of the present
Marquis of Ormonde, the three massive central towers stand to-day
practically unaltered as to their walls.
In every way the castle suggests Spenser's epithet, "Faire Kilkenny."
Its picture-gallery reputedly contains the best private collection in
Ireland,--portraits by Holbein, Lely, Van Dyck, Kneller, and Sir Joshua,
of men who have illustrated those tragedies of history which, with time,
have assumed the rich colouring of romance. Their curious watchful eyes
have scanned royal guests; indeed, more than one of that now silent
company have intermarried with the scions of royalty.
In Kilkenny itself--though, for that matter, the castle abuts upon the
Market Place--is the Cathedral of St. Canice, founded about 1180, which
is the gem of Kilkenny's architectural remains. It is a cruciform church
in plain, simple Gothic style, small but stately, and has in its
collection of monuments the most varied and rich in Ireland. It also
possesses the "Chair of St. Kieran." Both the east and the west windows
are notable, and there is a well-preserved round tower over one hundred
feet high at the corner of the south transept.
St. John's (thirteenth century), with some beautiful windows; St.
Mary's, older even than the cathedral; the Black Abbey; the Franciscan
Friary; and the modern Roman Catholic Cathedral complete the galaxy of
ecclesiastical monuments of Kilkenny.
The Blackwater River is called by the guide-books one of the largest in
Ireland. The description is, however, misleading. It is neither a very
great river, a very long one, nor a very
[Illustration: RHINCREW CASTLE.]
important one in the world of commerce; but it is, truly, a romantic and
picturesque one.
Its panorama presents the following views, which are highly important
and interesting:
Just above the bridge on Youghal quay (Youghal derives its name from
yew-wood) rises a cliff which is surmounted by a ruined Knights
Templars' preceptory, known as Rhincrew Castle and founded by Raymond le
Gros in 1183. Ardsallat follows; and the square castle keep of Temple
Michael, one of the ancient fortresses of the Geraldines, is near
Ballintra.
On the island of Molana are the ruins of the Abbey of Molanfidas, a most
ancient institution, founded by St. Fachman in 501. Raymond le Gros is
claimed to have been buried here, but no definite trace of the exact
location appears to be known.
Northward and westerly, to its source near Killarney, the
Blackwater--most picturesquely and significantly named--is a unique
succession of attractions such as is lacked by most streams of its size.
Strancally Castle is now but a moss-grown rock; but it possesses a
traditional tale of horror, which gives the waters at this point the
name of "The Murdering Hole." The Knockmeledown Mountains, a bare, bleak
range, stand out to the northward in strong contrast to the fertile
river-bottom.
Dromona Castle, in part a modern structure, which abuts upon a more
ancient structure, is the remains of an old castle of the Fitzgeralds.
This ancient building was the birthplace of the Countess Catherine
Desmond, who died only, at the age of 140 years, by reason of having
fallen from a cherry-tree. It is not recorded as to how or why this
sprightly old lady came to be in, or up, a cherry-tree on that fatal
occasion, but Sir Walter Raleigh is blamed for the whole affair, in that
he first domesticated the cherry-tree in Ireland, having brought the
first member of that family from Grand Canary and replanted it near by.
At the bend of the river, where it turns sharply to the westward, the
steamboat journey of the tourist comes abruptly to an end at the most
lovely and interesting of all the kaleidoscopic views which it
exhibits,--the little town of Cappoquin. Cappoquin is a quaint townlet
of perhaps a thousand souls and a
[Illustration: CAPPOQUIN.]
single inn, and high above it rises the long ridge of Mount Melleray,
capped, in its turn, by a Trappist convent, which carries on an
industrial enterprise of the first rank.
The Abbey of Mount Melleray lies at the foot of the Knockmeledowns, and
is an institution traditionally celebrated as being the domicile of the
most severe and rigorous monkish discipline; unequalled elsewhere in any
land. The monks are, by their rules, vegetarians, and they observe the
rule punctiliously. They drink no stimulants, not even tea,--which is
probably a good thing,--and five or six hours' sleep suffices for their
resting moments. The rest is work, incessant and laborious, and,
greatest hardship of all,--at least it will seem so to many of us,--is
that they preserve a "discreet and wholesome silence" at all times, this
rule being only relaxed in their necessary intercourse with visitors and
the outside world. Of course, this procedure does not differ greatly
from the general practice in the monasteries of the Trappists elsewhere,
except that it is more punctiliously observed here.
The abbey was originally a foundation of the Cistercian monks, who were
driven from France by the Revolution of 1830; but to-day it is peopled
by natives of Ireland.
In all this region, no castle, country-seat, abbey, or church is more
famous or splendid than Lismore Castle, another foundation of the Earl
of Montaigne, afterward King John of England (1185). It is to-day the
Irish home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. Lismore Castle is one
of the most beautiful seats in all Ireland. It has even been mentioned,
among the people here, as a prospective royal residence, though, like
enough, this is not to be taken as anything more than irresponsible
gossip, based on a wish that is father to the thought. It has been in
the possession of the Cavendish family since 1748, and the Duke and
Duchess of Devonshire spend some time every year in residence here in
the midst of their Irish tenantry. Royalty has frequently visited
Lismore Castle. It was an ancient fortress, and dates back to the days
of King John. It has been the scene of many a hard-fought fight,
especially in the wars of the Commonwealth, when Lord Castlehaven
captured it from the Roundheads in 1645. The
[Illustration: LISMORE CASTLE.]
present Duke of Devonshire and his predecessor have modernized the
castle and equipped it with interior luxuries without interfering in any
way with its noble and hoary exterior.
Lismore is in the very heart of the Blackwater country, amid some of the
most lovely scenery in the south of Ireland. Through Lismore Glen, where
the woods are thick on either side and the road is canopied over with
the spreading green foliage, one enters the Gap, a famous pass in the
Knockmeledown Mountains, where the hills rise on one side to frowning
heights, crowned in the gold of the gorse, which gives an additional
glory to the land, and, on the other side, fall sheer down in an almost
precipitous steep, across which there is a vast and enchanting view over
the rolling plains of Tipperary. As one passes through the Gap, either
on a car or coach, or on foot, the sun streams down with dazzling
brightness, and the little villages and townships, the tapering spires,
the tall watch-towers of antiquity, the whitewashed cottages, and gray
stone houses, standing solitary on green fields, the ranges of purple
hills, and the clumps of woods are all suffused with the yellow
mellowing glow of a glorious summer sun.
To all who visit the Blackwater, Lismore should be doubly dear; first,
because of its being a fine example of the fortified domestic Gothic
architecture of its time, and, secondly, because its present occupant is
generous enough to open its interior to view.
A MS. of very ancient date was recently discovered by some workmen
repairing the older portion of the castle. It is a most precious work on
vellum, recounting contemporary history in a manner which classes it as
one of the famous chronicles of English history, worthy, perhaps, to
rank with Froissart, Doomsday, and St. Albans. It is known as the "Book
of Lismore," and is now considered one of the chief treasures of the
castle.
One leaves Lismore with a certain feeling of sadness, if he is observant
and studies the straws and the winds.
Not many years ago the long mountain road, which runs from Lismore to
the Knockmeledown Mountains, had four or five little hamlets dotted
along it; to-day scarcely one house remains, and hardly a sign of life,
except a few sheep snatching at the precarious grazing. Of the 42,000
acres belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, only half are under
cultivation, and this is a very large proportion compared to the rest of
the surrounding estates.
Lismore, the town, has itself shrunk considerably during the past few
years. The aching desolation of it all gets on one's nerves after a
time, and, during a sojourn in this beautiful region, admiration of the
scenery is mingled with wonder as to whether nothing can or ever will be
done to brighten the mournful economic aspect of the agrarian situation.
Irish names have often a knack of being frankly pugnacious, so that even
a peaceful lord chief justice has had to bear the inciting-to-murder
sobriquet of Killowen. But the mountains, which form the background to
Lismore and Clogheen, the Knockmeledowns, are capable of an entirely
pacific interpretation. Commonly one says, "We are knocked down all in a
heap" by this or that which takes us by surprise, and these mountains
surprise all by their beauty. There is no lovelier sight in Ireland,
and, if an air of melancholy prevails, it is because the scene is
"somehow sad by excess of serenity," to quote a recent phrase of Mr.
Henry James, concerning a similar aspect elsewhere.
Between Lismore and Cork, _via_ Mallow, is Mitchelstown, which presents
an unusual series of attractions of the purely sentimental order.
Mitchelstown's Castle, Skereenarint (a "place for dancing in the wood"),
and the Caves of Coolagarranroe are the chief points of interest. It is
also the seat of an ancient bishopric, founded by St. Carthage in the
seventh century.
Health-giving and time-honoured Mallow, famed of Tacitus (Hist., lib.
i., c. 67) as the _locus amoens salubrium aquarium frequens_, is hardly
of great moment for the traveller of to-day, except as the gateway from
the north to Killarney.
Just north of Mallow, in the County Cork, is the rushing river Awbeg,
the "Mulla bright and fair," "Mulla mine," of Spenser. The poet himself
lived at Kilcoman Castle, some six miles off.
Near by is Buttevant, the Boutez-en-Avant, derived from the war-cry of
David de Barry. Significantly and strongly French, it reminds one of
the "Push forward" manoeuvre of Barry's men against the followers of
MacCarthy. The old name of this place was Kilnamullach, _i. e._, Church
of the Curse. The abbey in ruins reminds one that it was--
"Once the seat
Of monkish ease and dark religious pomp:
There many an antique monument is found
Illegible and faithless to its charge."
"That, deep insculped, once held in measured phrase
The mighty deeds of those who sleep below,
Of hero, sage or saint, whose pious hands--"
Cashel, known as "Cashel of the Kings," was the residence of the ancient
Kings of Ulster. The famous rock of Cashel is an eminence which rises
abruptly above the surrounding plain, and holds upon its summit a grand
assemblage of windowless and roofless ruins. These include various
ecclesiastical buildings and monuments of a great age,--a cathedral,
Cormac's Chapel, an episcopal palace, and various other edifices.
Cormac's Chapel and its round tower, commemorating the virtues of Cormac
MacCullinan, "at once King and Archbishop of Cashel," are justly
reckoned as among the best preserved and most curious erections in the
country. In that they were supposed to have been erected in Cormac's
time (he was born in 831), they certainly must be considered as in a
remarkable state of preservation, and, in every way, chronicles in stone
of the first importance.
Cormac has ascribed to his credit, too, the celebrated "Psalter of
Cashel" and "Cormac's Glossary," though there appears to be some doubt
as to whether he was the author or patron who inspired the production of
these works.
The "pointed" cathedral is of later date, and was, in part, destroyed by
fire in 1495. To-day it is a ruin, but a magnificent one, and its
outlines and proportions mark it as an important landmark for miles
around the great plain which surrounds "the rock."
The round tower's exact history is obscure; but, like most of its
fellows, it is of undoubted Christian significance. Twenty feet from the
ground, it is connected with the cathedral itself, while its completed
height rises ninety feet or more. Curiously enough, it is constructed
from quite a different stone from that
[Illustration: _The Cross of Cashel_]
used in the other buildings on the rock, and the supposition is that it
stood for centuries, silent and solitary, before the cathedral itself
took form, and perhaps before even Cormac's Chapel. The Cross of Cashel
is another celebrated feature of artistic and historical worth.
The "rock" was originally surrounded by a wall, which, though now gone
nearly to ruin, gives indications of great strength. In 1647 it was
stormed by Lord Inchquin, who took it and put to death the clergy who
had taken refuge thereon.
END OF VOLUME I.
Index
Achill, 27, 34.
Adamnan, St., 135.
Addison, 196.
Adrian II., 39, 77, 237.
Aghaboe, 214.
Ailech, Palace of, 111.
Albin, 119.
Angus of Dalriada, 139.
Angus Oge, 146.
Anne, Queen, 249.
Antrim, 45, 138, 139, 147, 148, 152, 153.
Arbogast, 119.
Ardfert, 127.
Ardora, 168.
Ardsallat, 259.
Arklow, 227.
Armagh, 111, 127, 186, 187.
Arran, 154.
Athlone, 31.
Attacotti Rebellion, The, 138.
Avoca (see Vale of Avoca).
Avonbeg, The, 227, 231.
Avondale, 231.
Avonmore, The, 227, 231.
Awbeg, The, 270.
Balbriggan, 163.
Ballach, Donald, 151.
Ballinakil House, Waterford, 234.
Ballintra, 168, 259.
Ballycastle, 137, 151.
Ballyfin, 214.
Ballymena, 164.
Ballyshannon, Falls of, 160.
Balrothery, 187.
Baltimore, 171, 237.
Banagher, 31.
Bann of Coleraine, The, 153.
Bannon Bay, 231.
Bantry Bay, 23, 27.
Barry, David de, 270-271.
Battle of the Boyne, 249.
Bearhaven, 171.
Belfast, 20, 28, 45, 89, 164, 168.
Belleek, 164.
Berkeley, Lord, 201.
Blackwater, The, 238, 256-268.
Blarney Castle, 10, 19, 90, 102, 227, 237.
Blarney Stone, The (see Blarney Castle).
Blood, Thomas, 249.
Bloody Forehead, The, 90.
Boleyn, Anne, 248.
Boru, Brian (see Brian Born).
Bray, 183, 204, 205, 206.
Breakspeare, Nicholas (see Adrian II.).
Brian Bora, 67, 111, 185-187.
Bridget, St., 215-216.
Brigid, St., 135.
Bun-na-Margie Abbey, 152.
Burke, Edmund, 195-196, 197.
Burke, Thomas, 179.
Burnett, Bishop, 248.
Buttevant, 270.
Bysett, Margery, 147, 151.
Canice, St., 142.
Cape Clear, 237.
Cappoquin, 260.
Carlow, 45.
Carrickfergus, 140.
Carrickmacross, 168.
Carrick-on-Suir, 160.
Cashel, 27-275.
Cathedral, 127, 128, 271-275
Cormac's Chapel, 271, 275.
Cross, 275.
Psalter, 272.
Rock, 271-275.
Castlehaven, Lord, 264.
Castleknock, 187.
Castlerea, 61.
Castlereagh, 147, 148.
Cathanach, Shane, 152.
Cavendish, Lord Frederick, 179.
Caves of Coolagarranroe, 270.
Celbridge, 193.
Charles I., 248.
Charles II., 248.
Cinbaeth the First, 110.
Clannaboy, 148.
Clare Mountains, 31.
Clements, 119.
Clifden, 23.
Clogheen, 269.
Clondalkin, 179.
Clones, 168.
Clonfert, 127, 131.
Clonmacnoise, 31.
Clonmell, 160.
Clontarf, 181, 182, 185-187.
Castle, 187.
Cloomaul, 62.
Cloyne, 128.
Coleraine, 153, 164.
Colla Uaish, 139.
Columba, St., 119, 121, 140-144.
Comyn, Archbishop of Dublin, 192.
Conact, 111.
Congal, 121.
Congreve, 197, 247.
Conighal, 142.
Conn of Tyrone, 152.
Connaught, 22, 79-80.
Connemara, 22, 23, 27, 168.
Coolock, 187.
Corc, King of Munster, 186.
Cork, 4, 19, 24, 27, 45, 46, 80, 90, 168, 237, 270.
Cathedral, 126.
Cormac, 271-275.
Corran of Larne, The, 153.
Crommelin, 167.
Cromwell, 153, 164, 193, 233, 243-244
Crosshaven, 168.
Cruachan, Palace of, 111.
Cuchullain, 137.
Cullen, Dr., 214.
Curragh, 209, 214, 215.
Dagans, St., 135.
Dalkey, 21, 168, 183.
Dalriada, 139, 153.
Damliag, 186.
Dargle, The, 205, 206, 209.
De Freyne, 61.
Derdrie, 151.
Derry (see Londonderry).
Derry, County, 146.
Devil's Bit Mountain, 214.
Devil's Glen, 205.
Devonshire, Dukes of, 264-267, 269.
Diarmid, 232.
Donatus, Bishop, 191.
Donegal, 24, 28, 111, 151, 168.
Down, 127, 183.
Downpatrick Cathedral, 131.
Dromod, 31.
Dromona Castle, 260.
Dublin, 7, 19, 21, 22, 27, 28, 34,
79, 86, 95, 148, 160, 163, 168,
176-205, 210, 213, 216.
Bank of Ireland, 198.
Bermingham Tower, 198.
Castle, The, 151, 198, 249.
Christchurch Cathedral, 127, 191-192.
Comyn, Archbishop, 192.
Cork Hill, 198.
"Fifteen Acres," 179.
Hoey's Court, 202.
Liffey, The (see Liffey).
Luke, Archbishop, 185.
National Gallery, 198.
Phoenix Park, 176, 179, 190.
Police Force, 189-190.
Sackville St., 198.
St. Fichan, Church of, 194.
St. Patrick de Insula, Church of, 192.
St. Patrick's Cathedral, 126, 127, 192-194, 202.
Trinity College, 197.
Viceregal Lodge, 179.
Duleck, 186.
Dunamase, 214.
Dunanynie Castle, 151, 152.
Dungarvan, 237.
Dunleary (see Kingstown).
Dunluce Castle, 151, 152.
Edgeworth, Miss, 72.
Edward I., 247.
Edward VII., 212-213.
Elizabeth, Queen, 184, 197, 198, 241, 248.
Emania (and Palace of), 110, 111, 139.
Enniscorthy, 232.
Enniskerry, 209.
Fachman, St., 259.
Fair Head, 137.
"Faithful Norman, The," 233-234.
Fergus of Dalriada, 139.
Fermanagh, 154.
Fitzgeralds, The, 260.
Fitzstephen, Robert, 232.
FitzWalter, Theobald, 244, 248.
Galway, 27, 31, 34, 79, 136.
Garryhill, 168.
George I., 250.
George IV., 181, 205-206.
Geraldines, The, 259.
Giant's Causeway, 10, 19, 28, 146, 227.
Gildas, 135.
Gill-Mantain (see Wicklow).
Glen of the Downs, 205.
Glendalough, 216-224.
Glengarriff, 27.
Glens of Antrim, The (see Antrim).
Goldsmith, 72, 130, 197.
Granuaile _or_ Grana Uile (see O'Malley, Grace).
Greenore, 20, 28.
Guinness Family, 193.
Hackett, 237.
Henry II., 38, 77, 237, 244.
Henry III., 224.
Henry VII., 78.
Henry VIII., 78, 197.
Hill of Allen, 216.
Holy Cross, 215.
Howth, 181, 183-185.
Castle of, 183-185.
Earls of, 183.
Hill of, 21, 181-183, 203.
St. Mary's Abbey, 185.
Inchquin, Lord, 275.
Innishowen Head, 141.
Innismurray, 154.
Ireland's Eye, 83.
James II., 191, 193.
James, Henry, 270.
John, King, 77, 264.
Johnson, Dr., 37.
Johnson, Esther ("Stella"), 194, 202.
Keating, 102.
Kells, 110.
Book of Kells, The, 110, 197.
Monastery of Kells, The, 143.
Kenbane Castle, 151.
Kerry, County, 27, 172.
Kevin, St., 216-224.
Kilcoman Castle, 270.
Kildare, 215-216.
Cathedral, 127.
Kilkenny, 142, 242-244, 251-252, 256.
Castle, 242, 244-256.
Cathedrals of St. Canice, 126, 127, 142, 256.
The Churches of, 256.
Killala Cathedral, 131.
Killaloe, 28, 31, 232.
Cathedral, 127, 128.
Killarney, 15, 19, 23, 24, 27, 31, 34, 58, 80,
90, 160, 227, 231, 259, 270.
Killiny Hill, 203.
Killowen, 269.
Kilmacduagh Cathedral, 131.
Kilmainham, 87.
Kilnamullach, 271.
Kincora, Palace of, 67, 111, 185.
Kingstown, 7, 20, 180-181, 183, 203, 204.
Kinsale, 168, 171.
Knockmeledown Mountains, 260, 263, 267, 268, 269-270.
Krans, Horatio, 71-72.
Lambay Island, 183.
Laracor, 201.
Larne, 20, 28, 153.
Lea Castle, 214.
Lee, The, 237.
Leinster, 22, 79, 209, 216, 237.
Leixlip, 182.
Lever, Charles, 72.
Liffey, The, 19, 179, 187, 203.
Falls of, 180.
Limerick, 27, 31, 45, 156, 168, 172.
Cathedral, 127.
Lisburn, 164, 167.
Lismore, 267, 269, 270.
Book of Lismore, 268.
Castle, 242, 264-268.
Cathedral, 128.
Gap, 267.
Glen, 267.
Loarn of Dalriada, 139.
Londonderry, 3, 45, 90, 111, 141, 145, 164.
Cathedral, 127.
Lough Derg, 31.
Lough Foyle, 141.
Lough Ree, 31.
Lough Swilly, 111.
Loughmore Castle, 214.
Louth, County, 183.
Lover, Samuel, 72, 82, 103.
Lowth, 187.
Lucan, 179.
Lugh Lamhfada, 137.
Lughmach, 187.
Luke, Archbishop of Dublin, 185.
MacCarthy, 271.
MacCullinan, Cormac, 271-275.
Macdonnell, Alexander, 153.
Macdonnell, James, 152.
Macdonnell, John More, 147, 151.
Macdonnell, Randal, 153.
Macdonnells, The, 148, 151, 152, 153.
Macha, Queen, 110.
MacQuillans, The, 151, 152.
Mallow, 24, 27, 270.
Marlborough, 249.
Maryborough, 214.
Maxwell, 72.
Mayo, 79, 136.
McCarthy, Justin, 71, 93.
Meath, 80, 111, 143, 183.
Meave, Queen, 103, 111.
Meave, The "Half-Red," 103.
"Meeting of the Waters," The, 227, 231.
Mitchell, Donald G., 196.
Mitchelstown, 270.
M'Murrogh, 232.
Molana, Island of, 259.
Molanfidas, Abbey of, 259.
Monasterboice, 110.
Monasterevan, 214.
Mononia, 185.
Moore, George, 82, 85, 93, 94-95, 102.
Moore, Thomas, 86, 103, 104-105, 185-186, 216, 219, 227-231.
Mount Melleray, 263.
Abbey of, 263-264.
Mourne Mountains, 183.
Moville, 3, 90.
Muckamore, 142.
Muckross Abbey, 10, 185.
Munster, 22, 79-80, 172, 186.
"Murdering Hole, The," 260.
Muskau, Prince Puckler, 228.
Myrtle Grove, Youghal, 238-241.
Naas, 209-213.
Naguire of Fermanagh, 154.
Navan Fort, 111.
Naysi, 151.
Nennin, St., 135.
Nethercross, 187.
Newcastle, 187.
Nore, The, 251.
O'Brien, Donald, 244.
O'Brien, Donogh, 197.
O'Brien, William Smith, 214-215.
O'Cahans, The, 146, 152.
O'Cleary, 145.
O'Donnell of Tyconnell, 144-145.
O'Donnell, Red Hugh, 145, 152.
O'Donnells, The, 111, 151.
O'Malley, Grace, 184.
O'Neill, Mary, 152.
O'Neill, Shane, 152.
O'Neill, Turlough Luineach, 152.
O'Neills, The, 144, 146, 147, 148, 152.
Ormonde, Duke of, 160.
Ormonde Family, 244-251, 255.
O'Toole, King, 223.
Ox-field House, 214.
Parnell, Charles Stuart, 231.
Patrick, St., 92, 102, 116, 120, 121, 132.
Port Brittas, 151.
Port Usnach, 137, 151.
Portumna, 31.
Poula-Phooka, 180.
Powerscourt, 205-206.
Prendergast, Maurice, 232-234.
Punchestown, 209-213.
Queenstown, 3, 15, 19, 204.
Raleigh, Sir Walter, 238-241, 260.
Rathdown, 187.
Rathlin Island, 146, 147.
Raymond le Gros, 234, 259.
Reefert Church, 223.
Reeves, Bishop, 142.
Reginald's Tower, Waterford, 234.
Rhincrew Castle, 259.
Richard II., 77.
Roderick, 232.
Ross Cathedral, 128.
Ross, Miss Martin, 73.
Rruy, The Clan, 139.
Russell, T. W., 63.
Saltee Light-Vessel, 234.
Savage of the Ards, 152.
Seven Churches (see Glendalough).
Shandon Bells, 237.
Shannon Bridge, 31.
Shannon, The, 28-31.
Shaw, Bernard, 82.
Sidney, Sir Henry, 192.
Sidney, Sir Philip, 192.
Sigtryg Silkbeard, 191.
Simnel, Lambert, 191.
Skelligs, The, 154.
Skereenarint Castle, 270.
Sliav Ailduin, 214.
Slievebloom Mountains, 214.
Slievemore, 19.
Sligo, 23, 27, 31, 34, 79, 168.
Sommerville, Miss, 73.
Sorley Boy, 151-152.
Spenser, 68, 105-106, 172, 255, 270.
Spire Hill, 214.
St. Canice Abbey, Aghaboe, 214.
St. Fichan, Dublin, Church of, 194.
St. Kiaran, Church of, 187.
St. Lawrences, The, 183-184.
St. Mary's Abbey, Howth (see Howth).
St. Nessan, Church of, Ireland's Eye, 183.
St. Patrick de Insula, Dublin, Church of, 192.
Steele, Sir Richard, 196.
Sterne, 6, 14, 16.
Stevenson, R. L., 6.
Strabane, 168.
Strancally Castle, 259.
Strongbow, Richard, 191-192, 232, 234, 237, 244.
Strongbow's Castle, 214.
Sugar Loaf Mountain, 183.
Suir, The, 214.
Swift, Dean, 103, 160, 193-194, 195, 197, 201-203, 247.
Tallaght, 188.
Tara, Hill of (Palace), 104, 111-112, 139, 197.
Temple, Michael, 259.
Thurles, 214-215.
Tipperary, 31, 172, 267.
Tralee, 27.
Trinity College (see Dublin).
Tristam (see Valence).
Tuam Cathedral, 131.
Tuathal Teachtmar, 138.
Tuskar Lighthouse, 234.
Tyconnell, 144.
Tyconnell, Hugh, Prince of, 152.
Tynan, Miss Katherine, 74.
Tyrone, Conn, Earl of, 152.
Ulster, 22, 44, 65, 79, 110, 111, 132, 152.
Uppercross, 187.
Ussher, 197.
Vale of Avoca, 227-231.
Valence, Sir Armoric Tristam de, 183.
Valentia, 171.
Van Raumer, Prof., 43-44.
"Vanessa" (see Vanhomrigh, Hester).
Vanhomrigh, Hester, 193, 202.
Venerable Bede, The, 102.
Vere, Aubrey de, 233.
Vernons, The, 187.
Vinegar Hill, 232.
Waterford, 20, 24, 45, 46, 234-237.
Cathedral, 127.
Wexford, 24, 231-234.
Wicklow, 24, 46, 79, 176, 183, 204-205, 211, 216, 224, 237.
William III., 203, 249.
Wills, the historian, 186.
Wood of Oaks (see Kildare).
Wykinlo (see Wicklow).
Wyndham, George, 65-68.
Yeats, Mr., 94, 95.
Youghal, 24, 168, 238, 259.
Young, Arthur, 7-8, 37.