[Illustration: Cyclamen plant in blossom.]
We wish to call attention to this beautiful and easily grown flower,
both on account of the ease with which it can be cultivated, especially
as a window plant in a cool room, and the abundance of flowers which it
will yield in the months of January and February, when flowers are
greatly appreciated. Probably many of our readers are not familiar with
it, and therefore in order that they may have a better idea of its
general appearance than can be given by any description, we have
obtained, through the courtesy of Mr. Jas. Vick, of Rochester, N. Y.,
the accompanying engraving, which is a very accurate representation of
the plant in flower.
The Cyclamen can be propagated successfully only from seed, but as that
is a somewhat tedious process, requiring two, and sometimes three years
to produce corms of sufficient size to flower, the process of raising
them will not now he dwelt upon. The corms, already grown to sufficient
size for flowering, can be purchased of the nurserymen and florists for
fifty cents apiece, and when once procured, with proper treatment, will
last many years. They are called corms because they are solid and not
formed, as bulbs are, of imbricated scales.
Most persons will purchase their Cyclamens when in flower, and therefore
we commence our hints on their culture at this point. When you have
brought them home, place them in the window, as close to the glass as
possible, where they will have abundance of light; they do not require
much heat, even when in flower; indeed they flourish better and hold
their flowers longer where the temperature is not raised higher than
sixty-five. They should be watered with care, not allowing the soil to
become dry, nor, on the other hand, to be kept soaked with water. When
they have finished flowering, they should be slowly ripened off,
withholding water gradually, and exposing them fully to the sun and air.
After they are thoroughly ripened, it is the writers practice to plunge
the pots into a bed on the north side of a building or tight board
fence, where they will be sheltered from the full power of the sun. The
pots are plunged deep enough to cover the corms with soil to the depth
of a couple of inches. Here they can be safely left until September,
unless mice find them, if they do they will surely devour them. About
the first of September they should be taken up, knocked out of the pots,
and repotted in fresh soil. Do not use large pots, one that will receive
the corm nicely is large enough, the same pot often answering for two or
more years. A soil composed of well-rotted turf, decayed leaves, and
sand, in about equal parts, will be found well adapted to them. The
addition of a little pounded charcoal, or soot from the chimney, is
thought to add to the depth of color of both leaves and flowers. In
potting, put plenty of broken crock or bits of charcoal in the bottom of
the pot, so as to give it good drainage, then fill with soil and plant
the corm so that the top of it will be level with the rim of the pot,
and one third of it above the surface of the soil; now water
sufficiently to settle the soil, place them in a cool, shady place,
where they can be protected from frosts, if frosty nights should come,
and water very sparingly, only giving sufficient to keep the soil damp.
When the weather becomes so cool that it is prudent to take them in, put
them in the window where they can have plenty of air and light, but
where the thermometer will not indicate a temperature above fifty
degrees, and continue to water them sparingly. In watering do not pour
the water over the corm, but on to the soil below. Some place the pots
in saucers, and give water when needed by pouring it into the saucers.
The great secret of success lies in keeping the plants in a cool
temperature until they begin to bloom, and not allowing the soil to
become overcharged with water. When they begin to bloom they may be
allowed a temperature as high as sixty-five°, and will require to be
watered more freely.
The leaves of Cyclamen Persicum are heart shaped, toothed on the edge,
dark green in color with marblings of gray. The flowers are raised above
the foliage on long foot stalks, as shown in the engraving, and are
either white, with a rosy purple centre, or rosy lilac throughout, with
a deepened shade at the centre. They are very free bloomers, the
individual blooms continue a long time, and the succession is kept up
for months. Mr. Vick says of them, very truly, in his catalogue, “They
are particularly adapted for window culture, and will give more flowers
with less trouble than almost any plant with which we are acquainted.”
—————