Chapter XII

Toronto

It is believed that the word Toronto is of Huron origin, and that it

signified "Place of Meeting." This has been contested; in any case it

should be spelled _To-ron-tah_. The word is also interpreted as "Oak

Trees beside the Lake," a derivation rather divergent from the above

version and we must leave this to the learned etymologists.

Glancing over maps of the middle of the eighteenth century designed

after the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle (1748), we see the names of many

forts and posts intended to keep up "the communications" between Canada

and Louisiana, and overawe the English colonies then confined to their

narrow strip of territory on the Atlantic coast. Conscious of the

mistake that they had made in giving up Acadia, the French at this

moment claimed that its "ancient limits" did not extend beyond the

isthmus of Chignecto--in other words, included Nova Scotia. Accordingly

they proceeded to construct the forts of Gaspereau and Beausejour on

that neck of land, and also one on the St. John River, so that they

might control the land and sea approaches to Cape Breton from the St.

Lawrence, where Quebec, enthroned on her picturesque heights, and

Montreal at the confluence of the Ottawa and the St. Lawrence, held the

keys to Canada. The approaches from New England by the way of Lake

Champlain and the Richelieu were defended by the fort of St. John, near

the northern extremity of the lake, and by the more formidable works

known as Fort Frederick or Crown Point--to give the better known English

name--on a peninsula at the narrows towards the South. The latter was

the most advanced post of the French until they built Fort Ticonderoga

or Carillon on a high, rocky promontory at the head of Lake St.

Sacrament. At the foot of this lake, associated with so many memorable

episodes in American history, Sir William Johnson erected Fort William

Henry, about fourteen miles from Fort Edward or Layman, at the great

carrying place on the upper waters of the Hudson. Returning to the St.

Lawrence and the Lakes, we find Fort Frontenac at the eastern end of

Lake Ontario, where the old city of Kingston now stands.

Within the limits of the present city of Toronto, La Gallissoniere then

built Fort Rouille[38] as an attempt to control the trade of the Indians

of the North, who were finding their way to the English fort of Oswego

which had been commenced with the consent of the Iroquois by Governor

Burnet of New York, and was now a menace to the French dominion of Lake

Ontario. At the other extremity lay Fort Niagara. When the French were

establishing this chain of forts or posts through the West and down the

Mississippi valley Fort Rouille was founded on a site even then

commonly called "Fort Toronto." It does not seem ever to have been a

dominant strategic point; the probabilities are there was no force

stationed here worth mentioning and, possibly, it was a mere dependency

of Fort Niagara. It was destroyed in 1756 to prevent its fall into the

hands of the English.

Little is known about the region of Toronto prior to Revolutionary times

save the above records. It was untrodden wilderness. But when the fort

was erected here the district in a general sense appears to have been

known as "Toronto." Under French dominion it was a royal trading post

and in the course of time the name attached itself to the fort and

village at the neighbouring bay, which have grown to be the beautiful

Capital City of Ontario. But the Toronto of the river Don and the great

bay is strictly of English origin, and had for its Romulus

Lieutenant-General Simcoe (1752-1806), first governor of Upper Canada.

[Illustration: Lieutenant-General Simcoe.]

When John Graves Simcoe arrived in Canada in 1792, the site of the

present city of Toronto was covered by the primeval forest, its only

human tenants being two or three families of wandering savages who had

happened to select the spot for the erection of their temporary wigwams.

One hundred years later we find at that very spot a magnificent city

having a population of 250,000 people, a prosperous and enterprising

community, possessed of all the comforts and appliances of modern

civilisation and refinement,--and, instead of the sombre, impenetrable

wilderness, the most wealthy and populous city of Upper Canada, with

streets and private dwellings, and public edifices that will compare

favourably with those of many other cities which have had centuries for

their development. For its rapid rise to its present eminence Toronto

is almost exclusively indebted to its admirable commercial position, its

advantages in that respect having been appreciated by the far-seeing

sagacity of Governor Simcoe, when selecting the site for a capital.

In 1791, when the former province of Quebec was divided into the

provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, Upper Canada contained about ten

thousand inhabitants, chiefly Loyalists, who, as noted elsewhere, when

the United States threw off allegiance to Great Britain, sought new hope

in the wilds of Canada; where, though deprived of many comforts, they

had the satisfaction of feeling that they kept inviolate their loyalty

to their sovereign and preserved their connection with the beloved

mother country.

In 1792 General Simcoe was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of Upper

Canada; and in the summer of that year arrived in the colony. In the

first instance the Government was established at Niagara, and there the

first Legislature of Upper Canada was convened on the 17th of September,

1792. It was seen, however, that from its position on the frontier,

Niagara was not well adapted for being the seat of government, and one

of the first subjects which occupied the attention of Governor Simcoe

was the selection of another site for a capital. On this point he very

soon came into collision with the views of the Governor-General, Lord

Dorchester, who was in favour of making Kingston the capital on account

of its proximity to Lower Canada which he regarded as a matter of the

first importance from a standpoint of trade, and also because of its

possibility of defence, as, in the event of an invasion, troops from

Lower Canada could be more easily forwarded to Kingston than to a more

westerly point. Governor Simcoe, however, had visited Toronto Harbour,

and had traversed the route thence to Penetanguishene on the Georgian

Bay. He perceived that that was the most advantageous route for the then

existing North-west trade,--the vast development of which since his time

he may have dimly foreseen--and that so soon as a road was opened up to

Lake Simcoe (then _Lacaux Claics_) merchandise from New York for the

North-west, would be sent by Oswego to Toronto, and then _via_ Lake

Simcoe to Lake Huron, avoiding the circuitous passage of Lake Erie.

Finally the Lieutenant-Governor's views prevailed, and the site of a

town having been surveyed on the margin of Toronto Bay, his first step

thereafter was to commence the construction of a road (Yonge Street) to

Lake Simcoe. In recent years the idea which thus originated with the

first governor has been completely carried out until to-day Toronto is,

with Montreal, the chief railway centre and the second city of the

Dominion. How long ere it will outrank its rival?

[Illustration: "York Harbor."

A drawing on bark by Mrs. Simcoe.]

The very next year after his assumption of the government of Upper

Canada General Simcoe ordered the survey of Toronto Harbour, and

entrusted the task to Colonel Bouchette, the Surveyor-General of Lower

Canada, who gives us our first historical glimpse of Toronto a hundred

years ago, or so, in the following passage:

It fell to my lot to make the first survey of York Harbour in

1793. Lieutenant-Governor, the late General Simcoe, who then

resided at Navy Hall, Niagara, having formed extensive plans for

the improvement of the colony, had resolved upon laying the

foundation of a Provincial capital. I was at that period in the

naval service of the lakes, and the survey of Toronto (York

Harbour), was entrusted by His Excellency to my performance. I

still distinctly recollect the untamed aspect which the country

exhibited when first I entered the beautiful basin which thus

became the scene of my early hydrographical operations. Dense

and trackless forests lined the margin of the lake, and

reflected their inverted images in its glassy surface. The

wandering savage had constructed his ephemeral habitation

beneath their luxuriant foliage--the group then consisting of

two families of Missassagas--and the Bay and neighbouring

marshes were the hitherto uninvaded haunts of the wild fowl;

indeed they were so abundant as in some measure to annoy us

during the night. In the spring following, the

Lieutenant-Governor removed to the site of the new capital,

attended by the regiment of Queen's Rangers and commenced at

once the realisation of his favourite project. His Excellency

inhabited, during the summer and through the winter, a canvas

house which he imported expressly for the occasion, but, frail

as was its substance, it was rendered exceedingly comfortable,

and soon became as distinguished for the social and urbane

hospitality of its venerated and gracious host, as for the

peculiarity of its structure.

Governor Simcoe gave the name of York to the capital he had selected,

and the rivers on either side received the names of the Don and Humber.

His own residence he built at the brow of the hill overlooking the

valley of the Don, at the junction of what was a few generations later

Saint James Cemetery with the property of F. Cayley, Esq., calling it

"Castle Frank," the name which the property still retains.

While the gubernatorial residence was being erected Governor Simcoe

returned to Niagara, where he opened the third session of the Upper

Canada Parliament on June 20, 1794. In the fall of that year, orders

were given for the construction of Parliament buildings at York on a

site at the foot of what in 1857 was Parliament Street, adjoining the

place where the "gaol stands." In 1795 the Duc de Rochefoucauld was in

Upper Canada, and in his published _Travels_ alludes to a visit paid to

York by some of his companions:

During our stay at Navy Hall, Messrs. Du Petit Thouars and

Guillemard, took the opportunity of the return of a gun-boat, to

pay a visit to York. Indolence, courtesy towards the Governor

(with whom the author was then residing at Navy Hall), and the

conviction that I would meet with few objects of interest in

that place, combined to dissuade me from this journey. My

friends informed me on their return, that this town, which the

Governor had fixed upon as the Capital of Upper Canada, has a

fine, extensive bay, detached from the lake by a tongue of land

of unequal breadth, being in some places a mile, in others only

six score yards broad; that the entrance of this bay, about a

mile in width, is obstructed in the middle by a shoal or

sand-bank, the narrow passages on each side of which may be

easily defended by works erected on the two points of land at

the entrance, on which two block-houses have already been

constructed; that this bay is two miles and a half long, and a

mile wide, and that the elevation of its banks greatly increases

its capability of defence by fortifications thrown up at

convenient points. There have not been more than a dozen houses

built hitherto in York, and these are situated in the inner

extremity of the bay, near the river Don. The inhabitants, it is

said, do not possess the fairest character. One of them is the

noted Batzy, the leader of the German families, whom Captain

Williamson accuses the English of decoying away from him, in

order to injure and obstruct the prosperity of his settlement.

The barracks which are occupied by the Governor's Regiment,

stand on the bay near the lake, about two miles from the town.

The Indians are for one hundred and fifty miles round the sole

neighbours of York.

Nothing shows better than this that we must remember that Old World

measurements of growth and cultural life cannot be applied to the

condition of a new continent where every foot of land had to be taken

from the aborigines, a continent in its agricultural infancy,

devastated by wars, changing ownership thrice within one hundred years.

The Indians in the district one hundred and fifty miles around Toronto

have been replaced to-day by a million of people as enterprising as they

can be found on the surface of the globe. In lieu of the dozen huts

described by our noble writer in 1795, you will find to-day a city of a

quarter million inhabitants, steamships, railroads, telegraph, electric

light--the "City of Churches."

Toronto, as noted, owes the progress it has made almost entirely to its

advantageous commercial position, which was the chief circumstance that

originally weighed with General Simcoe in selecting this as a site for

the capital of Upper Canada. The city is built on a slope, rising with a

very slight inclination from the bay, sufficient to secure its

salubrity, and to admit of a complete system of sewerage; but not enough

to give its architectural beauties the advantage they deserve to gratify

the aesthetic taste which would be disposed to seek on the shores of Lake

Ontario for a parallel to the grand old cities of Europe.

Governor Simcoe's amenities and hospitalities, his simplicity, his cares

and troubles are all parts of the early history of the province; his

administration in Canada has been generally commended, despite the

displays of prejudice against the United States. His schemes for

improving the province were "extremely wise and well arranged." But his

stay was abruptly cut short. It seems to-day that England was fearful he

might involve the mother-country in a new war with the young Republic

and he was rather hastily recalled to England in 1796, although at the

same time promoted a full lieutenant-general in the army.

In 1804 a census of the inhabitants of Toronto was taken, and it was

found that they numbered 456. At that time the town was bounded by

Berkeley Street on the east, Lot, now Queen Street on the north, and

New, now Nelson Street on the west. In 1806, Toronto or York was visited

by George Heriot, Esq., Deputy Postmaster-General of British North

America, and from the terms in which he speaks of it in his _Travels

through the Canadas_, it appears that it had then made considerable

progress. He says:

Many houses display a considerable progress. The advancement of

this place to its present condition has been effected within the

lapse of six or seven years, and persons who have formerly

travelled in this part of the country, are impressed with

sentiments of wonder, on beholding a town which may be termed

handsome, reared as if by enchantment in the midst of a

wilderness.

The Parliament buildings, when Heriot visited Toronto, were two

buildings of brick, at the eastern extremity of the town, which had been

designed as wings to a centre, and which were occupied as chambers for

the Upper and Lower House of Assembly.

In 1807 the inhabitants numbered 1058, and continued slowly to rise till

1813, when the American War brought calamities on to Toronto, from the

disastrous effects of which it took more than a decade to recover.

In 1813 the campaigns of the war centred, as we have seen, around Lake

Erie. The Navy had lately restored American confidence, and a second

invasion of Canada was a principal feature in the programme. At the

middle of April Dearborn and Chauncey matured a plan of operations. A

joint land and naval expedition was proposed, to first capture York, and

then to cross Lake Ontario and reduce Fort George. At the same time

troops were to cross the Niagara, from Buffalo and Black Rock, capture

Fort Erie and Chippewa, join the fleet and army at Fort George, and all

proceed to attack Kingston. Everything being arranged, Dearborn embarked

about 1700 men on Chauncey's fleet, at Sacketts Harbour on the 22d of

April, and on the 25th the fleet, crowded with soldiers, sailed for

York. After a boisterous voyage it appeared before the little town early

in the morning of the 27th, when General Dearborn, suffering from ill

health, placed the land forces under charge of General Pike, and

resolved to remain on board the Commodore's flagship during the attack.

The little village of York, numbering somewhat more than one thousand

inhabitants at the time, was then chiefly at the bottom of the bay near

a marshy flat, through which the Don, coming down from the beautiful

fertile valleys, flowed sluggishly into Lake Ontario, and, because of

the softness of the earth there, it was often called "Muddy Little

York." It gradually grew to the westward, and, while deserting the Don,

it wooed the Humber, once a famous salmon stream, that flows into a

broad bay two or three miles west of Toronto. In that direction stood

the remains of old Fort Toronto, erected by the French. On the shore

eastward of it, between the present new barracks and the city, were two

batteries, the most easterly one being in the form of a crescent. A

little farther east, on the borders of a deep ravine and small stream,

was a picketed block-house, some intrenchments with cannon, and a

garrison of about eight hundred men under Major-General Sheaffe. On

"Gibraltar Point," the extreme western arm of the peninsula, that

embraced the harbour with its protecting arm, was a small blockhouse;

another stood on the high east bank of the Don, just beyond a bridge at

the eastern termination of King and Queen streets. These defences had

been strangely neglected. Some of the cannon were without trunnions,

others, destined for the war-vessel then on the stocks, were in frozen

mud and half covered with snow. Fortunately for the garrison, the _Duke

of Gloucester_ was then in port, undergoing some repairs, and her guns

furnished some armament for the batteries. These, however, only amounted

to a few six-pounders. The whole country around, excepting a few spots

on the lake shore, was covered with a dense forest.

On the day when the expedition sailed from Sacketts Harbour General Pike

issued minute instructions concerning the manner of landing and attack.

It is expected [he said] that every corps will be mindful of the

honour of the American, and the disgraces which have recently

tarnished our arms, and endeavour, by a cool and determined

discharge of their duty, to support the one and wipe off the

other. [He continued:] The unoffending citizens of Canada are

many of them our own countrymen, and the poor Canadians have

been forced into the war. Their property, therefore, must be

held sacred; and any soldier who shall so far neglect the honour

of his profession as to be guilty of plundering the inhabitants,

shall, if convicted, be punished with death. But the commanding

general assures the troops that, should they capture a large

quantity of public stores, he will use his best endeavours to

procure them a reward from his government.

[Illustration: "The Garrison at York."

A drawing on bark by Mrs. Simcoe.]

It was intended to land at a clearing near old Fort Toronto. An easterly

wind, blowing with violence, drove the small boats in which the troops

left the fleet full half a mile farther westward, and beyond an

effectual covering by the guns of the navy. Major Forsyth and his

riflemen, in two bateaux led the van, and when within rifle shot of the

shore they were assailed by a deadly volley of bullets by a company of

Glengary Fencibles and a party of Indians under Major Givens, who were

concealed in the woods that fringe the shore. "Rest on your oars!

Prime!" said Forsyth in a low tone. Pike, standing on the deck of the

_Madison_, saw this halting, and impatiently exclaimed, with an

expletive: "I cannot stay here any longer! Come," he said, addressing

his staff, "jump into the boat." He was instantly obeyed, and very soon

they and their gallant commander were in the midst of a fight, for

Forsyth's men had opened fire, and the enemy at the shore were returning

it briskly. The vanguard soon landed, and were immediately followed, in

support, by Major King and a battalion of infantry. Pike and the main

body soon followed, and the whole column, consisting of the Sixth,

Fifteenth, Sixteenth, and Twenty-First Regiments of Infantry, and

detachments of light and heavy artillery, with Major Forsyth's riflemen

and Lieutenant McClure's volunteers as flankers, pressed forward into

the woods.

The British skirmishes meanwhile had been re-enforced by two companies

of the Eighth or King's Regiment of Regulars, two hundred strong, a

company of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment, a large body of militia, and

some Indians. They took position in the woods, and were soon encountered

by the advancing Americans, whose artillery it was difficult to move.

Perceiving this, the British, led by General Sheaffe in person, attacked

the American flank with a six-pounder and howitzer. A very sharp

conflict ensued, and both parties suffered much. Captain McNeil, of the

King's Regiment, was killed. The British were overpowered, and fell

back, when General Pike, at the head of the American column, ordered his

bugler to sound, and at the same time dashed gallantly forward. That

bugle blast thrilled like electric fire along the nerves of the Indians.

They gave one horrid yell, then fled like frightened deer to cover, deep

into the forest. That bugle blast was heard in the fleet, in the face of

the wind and high above the voices of the gale, and evoked long and loud

responsive cheers. At the same time Chauncey was sending to the shore,

under the direction of Commander Elliott, something more effective than

huzzas for he was hurling deadly grape-shot upon the foe, which added to

the consternation of the savages, and gave fleetness to their feet. They

also hastened the retreat of Sheaffe's white troops to their defences in

the direction of the village, while the drum and fife of the pursuers

were briskly playing _Yankee Doodle_.

The Americans now pressed forward rapidly along the lake shore in

platoons by sections. They were not allowed to load their muskets, and

were compelled to rely upon the bayonet. Because of many ravines and

little streams the artillery was moved with difficulty, for the enemy

had destroyed the bridges. By great exertions a field-piece and a

howitzer, under Lieutenant Fanning, of the Third Artillery, was moved

steadily with the column. As that column emerged from thick woods,

flanked by McClure's volunteers, divided equally as light troops under

Colonel Ripley, it was confronted by twenty-four pounders on the Western

Battery. Upon this battery the guns of some of Chauncey's vessels which

had beat up against the wind in range of the enemy's works were pouring

heavy shot. Captain Walworth was ordered to storm it with his

grenadiers, of the Sixteenth. They immediately trailed their arms,

quickened their pace, and were about to charge, when the wooden magazine

of the battery, that had been carelessly left open, blew up, killing

some of the men, and seriously damaging the defences. The dismayed enemy

spiked their cannon, and fled to the next, or Half-Moon, Battery.

Walworth pressed forward; when that, too, was abandoned and he found

nothing within but spiked cannon. Sheaffe and his little army, deserted

by the Indians, fled to the garrison near the Governor's house, and

there opened a fire of round and grape-shot upon the Americans. Pike

ordered his troops to halt, and lie flat upon the grass, while Major

Eustis, with his artillery-battery moved to the front, and soon silenced

the great guns of the enemy.

The firing from the garrison ceased, and the Americans expected

every moment to see a white flag displayed from the block-house

in token of surrender. Lieutenant Riddle, whose corps had

brought up the prisoners taken in the woods, was sent forward

with a small party to reconnoitre. General Pike, who had just

assisted with his own hands in removing a wounded soldier to a

comfortable place, was sitting upon a stump conversing with a

huge British sergeant who had been taken prisoner, his staff

standing around him. At that moment was felt a sudden tremor of

the ground, followed by a tremendous explosion near the British

garrison. The enemy, despairing of holding the place, had blown

up their powder magazine, situated upon the edge of the water at

the mouth of a ravine, near where the buildings of the Great

Western Railway now stand. The effect was terrible. Fragments of

timber and huge stone of which the magazine walls were built

were scattered in every direction over a space of several

hundred yards. When the smoke floated away the scene was

appalling. Fifty-two Americans lay dead, and one hundred and

eighty others were wounded. So badly had the affair been managed

that forty of the British also lost their lives by the

explosion. General Pike, two of his aids, and the British

sergeant were mortally hurt, while Riddle and his party were

unhurt, the missiles passing entirely over them. The terrified

Americans scattered in dismay, but they were soon rallied by

Brigade-Major Hunt and Lieutenant-Colonel Mitchell. The column

was re-formed and the general command was assumed by the gallant

Pennsylvanian colonel, Cromwell Pearce, of the Sixteenth, the

senior officer. After giving three cheers, the troops pressed

forward toward the village, and were met by the civil

authorities and militia officers with propositions of a

capitulation in response to a peremptory demand for surrender

made by Colonel Pearce. An arrangement was concluded for an

absolute surrender, when, taking advantage of the confusion that

succeeded the explosion, and the time intentionally consumed in

the capitulation, General Sheaffe and a large portion of his

regulars, after destroying the vessels on the stocks, and some

storehouses and their contents, stole across the Don, and fled

along Dundas Street toward Kingston. When several miles from

York they met a portion of the King's Regiment on their way to

Fort George. These turned back, covered Sheaffe's retreat, and

all reached Kingston in safety. Sheaffe (who was the military

successor of Brock) was severely censured for the loss of York.

He was soon afterward superseded in command in Upper Canada by

Major-General De Rottenburg and retired to Montreal to take

command of the troops there.

On hearing of the death of General Pike, General Dearborn went on shore,

and assumed command after the capitulation. At sunset the work was

finished; both Chauncey and Dearborn wrote brief despatches to the

government at Washington; the former saying: "We are in full possession

of the place," and the latter: "I have the satisfaction to inform you

that the American flag is flying upon the fort at York." The post, with

about two hundred and ninety prisoners besides the militia, the war

vessel _Duke of Gloucester_, and a large quantity of naval and military

stores, passed into the possession of the Americans. Such of the latter

as could not be carried away by the squadron were destroyed. Before the

victors left, the public buildings were fired by some unknown hand, and

consumed.

Four days after the capitulation, the troops were re-embarked,

preparatory to a descent upon Fort George. The post and village of York,

possessing little value to the Americans, were abandoned. The British

repossessed themselves of the spot, built another block-house, and on

the site of the garrison constructed a regular fortification.

The loss of the Americans in the capture of York was sixty-six killed

and two hundred and three wounded on land, and seventeen killed and

wounded on the vessels. The British lost, besides the prisoners, sixty

killed and eighty-nine wounded. General Pike was crushed beneath a heavy

mass of stones that struck him in the back. He was carried immediately

after discovery to the water's edge, placed in a boat, and conveyed

first on board the _Pert_, and then to the Commodore's flagship. Just as

the surgeons and attendants, with the wounded general, reached the

little boat, the huzzas of the troops fell upon his benumbed ears. "What

does it mean?" he feebly asked. "Victory," said a sergeant in

attendance. "The British union-jack is coming down from the blockhouse,

and the Stars and Stripes are going up." The dying hero's face was

illuminated by a smile of great joy. His spirit lingered several hours,

and then departed. Just before his breath ceased the captured British

flag was brought to him. He made a sign for them to place it under his

head, and thus he expired. His body was taken to Sacketts Harbour, and

with that of his pupil and aid, Captain Nicholson, was buried with

military honours within Fort Tompkins there.

[Illustration: Captain Sowers's drawings of Fort Niagara, 1769.

From the original in the British Museum.]

It was not till 1821 that the town recovered from these disasters, and

then the population only amounted to 1559. In 1830 it was 2860; but in

1834, a strong tide of emigration into Canada having set in, the

population increased to 9254. In that year the town was incorporated as

a city, and Mr. William Lyon Mackenzie was elected the first mayor of

Toronto, April 3, 1834. In 1838 the inhabitants numbered 12,571; in

1848, 15,336; in 1861, they had increased to 44,821; in 1871, to 56,039;

in 1881, 86,415; in 1891, 181,220; and finally, in 1903, to 266,989.

In 1821, E. A. Talbot, the author of some works of travel[39] visited

the town. He states that the public edifices at that time were a

Protestant Episcopal Church ("a wooden building with a wooden belfry"),

a Roman Catholic Chapel (a brick building "not then completed, but

intended to be very magnificent"--the present St. Paul's Church in Power

Street), a Presbyterian Meeting House (a brick building, occupying the

site of what is now Knox's Church), a Methodist Meeting House, situated

in a field, nearly on the present site of the _Globe_ office, the

Hospital (the brick building on King Street now known as the Old

Hospital, and occupied as Government offices), which Talbot describes as

the most important building of the province, "bearing a very fine

exterior," the Parliament House (a brick building erected in 1820 on the

former site, and destroyed by fire in 1824), and the residence of the

Lieutenant-Governor, a wooden building, "inferior to several private

houses of the town, particularly that of Rev. Dr. Strachan," says

Talbot. The streets, he adds, are regularly laid out, but "only one of

them is in a finished state, and in wet weather those of them which are

unfinished, are if possible more muddy than the streets of Kingston."

How different to-day, when Toronto has been called the "City of

Churches," because of the large number of fine churches that have been

erected in it! The distinctive feature of church architecture in Toronto

consists in the fact that all denominations have built a considerable

number of fine churches instead of concentrating their efforts on the

erection of a few of greater magnificence. The large churches are not

confined to the central portion but are found widely distributed

throughout. Toronto to-day is the see of both Anglican and Roman

Catholic archbishops. The city has suffered from destructive

conflagrations, notably in 1890, and in April, 1904, when more than one

hundred buildings in the wholesale business section were burned down,

some five thousand persons were thrown out of work, and about eleven

millions' worth of property was destroyed.

The year 1866 is a memorable one in the history of Toronto as well as

all Canada as the year of the Fenian raids. The Toronto regiments of

volunteers were promptly sent to drive the Fenians out of the Niagara

peninsula. The "Queen's Own" met the enemy at Ridgeway, and sustained a

loss of seven killed and twenty-three wounded. The beautiful monument

erected to the memory of those who fell at Ridgeway is decorated each

year on June 2d by their comrades and by the school children of the

city. Another monument in Queen's Park commemorates the loyalty and

bravery of Toronto volunteers. It records the gallantry of those who

were killed during the North-west rebellion of 1885.

Toronto is a notable educational centre. The university is one of the

best equipped in America. The first step towards its establishment was

taken as early as 1797, but the university was not founded until 1827,

chartered and endowed somewhat later, and opened for students in 1843.

Until then it had rather a sectarian character, but nowadays it

embraces, besides the four principal faculties, the following

institutions: Ontario Agricultural College, Royal College of Dental

Surgeons, the College of Pharmacy, the Toronto College of Music, the

School of Practical Science, and the Ontario Veterinary College. The

students in 1905-06 numbered 2547. The University buildings, it is said,

are the best specimen of Norman architecture in America. The most

beautiful other public buildings of Toronto are: the new Parliament

buildings, the new City Hall, Osgood Hall, the Seat of the Provincial

Courts and Law School, Trinity University, McMaster University, the

Normal School, Upper Canada College, and the Provincial Asylum.

Toronto is pre-eminently a city of homes. It claims to have a larger

proportion of good homes and a much smaller proportion of saloons than

any city of its size in America. One of the gratifying features of

Toronto that distinguishes it from most large cities is the fact that

there is no part of the city that can be fairly regarded as a "slum"

district.

The city covers a very large area so that there is no overcrowding.

Working men have no difficulty in obtaining homes with separate gardens,

and it is a common practice to use these gardens in growing both flowers

and vegetables.

The Park System is extensive and beautiful, possessing about 1350 acres,

the chief being Queen's Park, adjoining the university, and the

extensive High Park on the west of the city. But the most popular is

probably Island Park, on Hiawatha Island, which lies immediately in

front of the city in the form of a crescent about three miles in length.

The following great Canadians were born in Toronto: Professor Egerton

Ryerson; Sir John MacDonald; Sir Daniel Wilson; Reverend Wm. Morley

Puncheon; Hon. George Brown; Sir Oliver Mowat; but the most widely known

Toronto citizen is probably Goldwin Smith, the great historian and

economist. Toronto has ever shown itself fervently British in sentiment.

Its later history has been purely civic without other interest than that

attaching to prosperous growth. A pleasant society and an attractive

situation make it a favourite place of residence.

In the first quarter of the nineteenth century, there was a certain Mr.

Hetherington in Toronto, one of the clerks of St. James. Now the music

of those primitive times seems to have been managed altogether after the

old country village choirs. Mr. Hetherington was wont, after giving out

the Psalm, to play the air on a bassoon; and then to accompany with

fantasias on the same instrument, when any vocalist could be found to

take the singing in hand. By-and-by the first symptoms of progress are

apparent in the addition of a bass-viol and clarinet to help Mr.

Hetherington's bassoon--"the harbinger and foreshadow," as Dr. Scadding

says, "of the magnificent organ presented in after-times to the

congregation of the 'Second Temple of St. James' by Mr. Dunn, but

destroyed by fire, together with the whole church, in 1839, after only

two years of existence."

Incidents of a different character no less strongly mark the changes

which a period of only ninety years has witnessed. In 1811, namely, we

find William Jarvis, Esq., His Excellency's Secretary, lodging a

complaint in open court against a negro boy and girl, his slaves. The

Parliament at Newark had, indeed, enacted in 1793--in those patriarchal

days already described, when they could settle the affairs of the young

province under the shade of an umbrageous tree--that no more slaves

should be introduced into Upper Canada, and that all slave children born

after the 9th of July of that year should be free on attaining the age

of twenty-five.

But even by this creditable enactment slavery had a lease of life of

fully a quarter of a century longer, and the _Gazette Public

Advertiser_, and other journals, continue for years thereafter to

exhibit such announcements as this of the Hon. Peter Russell, President

of the Legislative Council, of date, February 19, 1806: "To be sold: a

black woman, named Peggy, aged forty years, and a black boy, her son,

named Jupiter, aged about fifteen years." The advertisement goes on to

describe the virtues of Peggy and Jupiter. Peggy is a tolerable cook and

washerwoman, perfectly understands making soap and candles, and may be

had for one hundred and fifty dollars, payable in three years, with

interest, from the day of sale. Jupiter, having various acquirements

besides his specialty as a good house servant, is offered for two

hundred dollars, but a fourth less will be taken for ready money. So

recently as 1871, John Baker, who had been brought to Canada as the

slave of Solicitor-General Gray, died at Cornwall, Ontario, in extreme

old age. But before that the very memory of slavery had died out in

Canada; and it long formed the refuge which the fugitive slave made for,

with no other guide than the pole-star of our northern sky.

The history of Toronto, as already noted, is necessarily to a great

extent that of the province, and of the whole region of Canada.

Upper Canada [says Dr. Scadding], in miniature, and in the space

of a century, curiously passed through conditions and processes,

physical and social, which old countries on a large scale, and

in the course of long ages passed through. Upper Canada had its

primeval and barbaric, but heroic age, its mediaeval and high

prerogative era; and then, after a revolutionary period of a few

weeks, its modern, defeudalised, democratic era.

[Footnote 38: Named in honour of a French Minister of Colonies. The

_Rouilles_ are a celebrated family, later on styled Rouille-de-Marboeuf.

The above-named Rouille is highly praised by St. Simon as a statesman of

ability and integrity.]

[Footnote 39: _Five Years' Residence in the Canadas._]

Index

A

Abbott, Francis, the "Hermit of Niagara," 40

Abercrombie, Sir Ralph, Brock under, 232

Allen, Ethan, mentioned, 222

Allen, Sadie, shoots the Rapids, 139

"American Blondin," the, see Calverly

_American Canals, Great_, see Hulbert

American Civic Association mentioned, 119

Amherst, Sir Jeffrey, campaign of 1759, 209

Anderson, M. B., on first Niagara Commission, 80

"Angevine place," building-site of _Griffon_, 181

B

Bakewell's estimate of Niagara's age, 65

Balleni, tight-rope artist, 130

Barton, J. L., reminiscences of early Buffalo, 7

Bath Island, 76

Biddle Stairs, 32

Bird Island, 30, 76

Black Rock, origin of name, 8

Blondin, career of, 123-129;

W. D. Howells's description of, 127-128

Blossom, I. A., agent of Holland Land Co., 7

Bourinot, Dr., quoted, 159-160, 288-291

Braddock, plans to capture Ft. Niagara, 206-207

Brock, Gen. Isaac, sketch of life, 231-238;

replies to Hull's Proclamation, 244-246;

captures Hull, 246-253;

relations with the Indians, 252-253;

death, 256;

eulogies, 257-262;

monuments to, 48, 259-262

Brodie, "Steve," goes over the Falls, 137

Browne, G. W., on St. Lawrence, 4, 161;

on De Nonville at Niagara, 187-189

Brule on Niagara frontier, 165

Buckley, A. B., _Fairyland of Science_, cited, 168

Buffalo, N. Y., growth of, 4-8

Buffalo Historical Society mentioned, 6

Burnt Ship Bay, 10, 212

Burton Act for preservation of Niagara, 116-120

C

Calverly, C. M., the "American Blondin," 132

Campbell, W. G., Niagara crank, 149

_Canada_ (_Story of the Nations_), see Bourinot

Canadian Niagara Falls Power Co., 104, 112, 117

_Canals, Great American_, see Hulbert

Cantilever bridge, 46

_Caroline_, the, incident, 291

_Cassier's Magazine_ quoted, 121

Cataract House, the, 75

"Cave of the Winds," the, 28, 31-33

Cayuga Creek mentioned, 10

Celoron at Niagara, 203

_Century Magazine_ quoted, 29, 42-44

Champlain on Niagara frontier, 158-163

Chippewa Creek, 46; battle of, 279 _seq._

Chrystie, Col., in War of 1812, 264

Church's "Niagara" mentioned, 14

Clark, George Rogers, compared with Brock, 249

Clark, Dr. John M., on "destruction of Niagara," 117

Colcourt, Henry, Blondin's assistant, 125

Colour of Niagara water explained by Mrs. Van Rensselaer, 42-44

Commissioners of N. Y. State Reservation, first report of, 82 _seq._

Crystal Palace, Blondin at, 128

Cutter, O. W., Niagara committeeman, 89

D

Dallion, Father, at Niagara, 166

"Darting Lines of Spray" explained, 45

Day, D. A., report, 17

Dearborn, Gen., in War of 1812, 274 _seq._

De Leon, "Prof.," Niagara crank, 131

De Nonville, Gov., on Niagara frontier, 186-194

"Destruction of Niagara" discussed, 110-120

De Troyes at Fort Niagara, 190-194

"Devil's Hole," 49;

massacre, 214-215

Dittrick, W., Niagara crank, 148

Dixon, S. J., tight-rope artist, 132

Dogs go over Falls, 151-152

Dorsheimer, William, on first Niagara Commission, 80;

presents the park to New York State, 92

Dufferin Islands, 46

E

Electrical Development Co., 117

Ellicott, Andrew, estimates Niagara's age, 63

Erie Canal, importance to Niagara frontier, 6

Evershed, Thomas, devises wheel-pits, 101

F

Farini, Signor, tight-rope artist, 129

Flack, R. W., killed in race in Niagara River, 148

_Fool-Killer_, see Nissen

Forts: Chippewa, 46;

Drummond, 48;

du Portage, 15;

Erie, 8;

battle of, 285 _seq._;

Frontenac, 17, 170;

George, 50, 274-276;

Niagara, the first, 189-194;

building, 197-202;

during French War and Revolution, 204-229;

Sir William Johnson captures, 278;

Rouille, 293;

Schlosser, 15

Fuller, Margaret, describes Niagara by night, 12;

on Goat Island flora, 18;

quoted, 28

G

Galinee on Niagara frontier, 166

Geology of Niagara, 52 _seq._

Goat Island, 16-19, 25, 29, 40, 74

_Golden Book of Niagara_, names in the, 79

Gorge of Niagara, its history, 63 _seq._

Graham, C. D., performs at Niagara, 137

Gravelet, see Blondin

Gray, Dr. Asa, on Goat Island flora, 16

Great Lakes, drainage, 3

Green, A. H., on first Niagara Commission, 80

Green Island, 30

_Griffon_, the, built at La Salle, N. Y., 180-186. See Remington

Gull Island, 40

H

Hall, Capt. Basil, experiment at Niagara, 34

Hall, Prof. James, survey of Falls, 65

Hardy, J. E., tight-rope artist, 132

Hazlett, George, Niagara crank, 139

"Heart of Niagara," 38, 45

Hennepin, Father, Narrative, quoted, 168, 173-184

Hennepin's View, 21

Heriot, George, quoted, 300

"Hermit of Niagara," see Abbott

"Hermit's Cascade," 40

Hill, Gov. D. B., signs Niagara Reservation Bill, 81

_Historic Highways of America_, cited, 206

_Historic Towns of the Middle West_, quoted, 5

Holland Land Co., mentioned, 7

Hooker, Sir J., on Goat Island, 16

Houghton, George, "The Upper Rapids," quoted, 13

_How Niagara was Made Free_, see Welch

Howells, W. D., quoted, 28, 29, 72-73, 74, 127-128

Hulbert, A. B., _The Ohio River_, cited, 3, 4;

_Great American Canals_, cited, 6;

_Historic Highways_, cited, 206

Hull, General, surrenders to Brock, 243, 277-279

Hunt, William M., painting of Niagara, 14

Hunter, Colin, view of Niagara rapids, 11

I

Ice Age, Niagara in the, 58-59

Ice Bridge, 39

Inspiration Point, 44

International Railway Co., 117

Iris Island, see Goat Island

Iroquois, dominate Niagara frontier, 153 _seq._;

Hennepin's embassy to, 177-180

J

Jay's treaty, 225-226

Jenkins, I. J., tight-rope artist, 131

Johnson, Sir William, captures Fort Niagara, 211-213;

treaty at Fort Niagara, 215-216

Joncaire, Chabert, erects "Magazine Royale," 197-200

K

Kendall, W. I., swims Niagara rapids, 136

King, Alphonse, performs at Niagara, 136-7

L

_La Belle Famille_, see Youngstown, N. Y.

La Salle, on Niagara frontier, 170-186

La Salle N. Y., the _Griffon_ built at, 183

Lewiston Heights, 50, 264-265

_Life and Correspondence of Major-General Sir Isaac Brock, K. B._, see

Tupper

_Life and Times of General Brock_, see Read

Luna Island, 31

Lundy's Lane, 46;

battle of, 282

Lyell, Sir Charles, estimates Niagara's age, 65

M

Mackenzie, William Lyon, Bourinot describes, 288

"Magazine Royale," Joncaire builds, 197-200

Mahany, R. B., in _Historic Towns of the Middle States_, 5

_Maid of the Mist_, 44;

voyage through lower rapids, 144-146

Manchester, see Niagara Falls, N. Y.

Mars, Tesla's project to signal, 120

Marshall, O. H., mentioned, 157, 187, 194-195, 219

Matheson, James, advocates reclamation of Niagara, 77

_Michigan_, brig, sent over the Falls, 133

Milet, Father, at Fort Niagara, 193

Mohawk River in the Ice Age, 60

Montresor, Capt., blockhouse, 15

Morgan, William, mentioned, 202

N

_Nation, The_, on the "desecration of Niagara," 78

Neuter Nation first inhabit Niagara frontier, 156 _seq._

Newark, see Niagara-on-the-Lake

"New Jerusalem," Major Noah's, 9

New York State Reservation, history of, 77-96

_New York Times_, on opening of New York Reservation, 94-95

_Niagara Book, The_, cited, 28

Niagara Falls, N. Y., described, 96-98

Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power and Manufacturing Co., 102, 104, 110,

111-112, 118-119

Niagara Falls Power Co., 101, 104, 111-112, 118-119

Niagara, Lockport, and Ontario Power Co., 114-115

Niagara-on-the-Lake, 50, 227-230

Niagara Reservation Act, 79-82, 84

Niagara River, historic importance, 2;

drainage area, 2-4;

description of the upper, 8-22;

upper rapids of, 10-15;

islands of, 12-22;

historic sites of upper, 14-16;

Falls of, 20 _seq._;

bridges over, 21 _seq._;

music of, 24-27;

Howells on repose of, 28;

air pressure at Falls of, 34-37;

when dry, 38;

in winter, 39;

changes in, 41-42;

Mrs. Van Rensselaer on colour of, 42-44;

view of, from Queen Victoria Park, 44;

a tour around, 20-51;

the lower, described, 46-51;

the geology of, 52-71;

recession of Falls of, 63-71;

George Frederick Wright on age of, 66-70;

during era of private ownership, 72-77;

struggle for passage of "Reservation Act," 77-82;

_Golden Book of_, names in, 79;

as producer of power, 99-122;

volume of, 99;

tunnel beneath, 106;

manufacturing companies, use of, 111-113, 117;

use of water of, discussed, 111-122;

Burton Act concerning, Taft on, 117-120;

Blondin, career on, 123-129;

performances of cranks on, 129-152 (see Farini, Dixon, Webb, Graham,

etc.),

_Maid of the Mist_ sails lower, 144-146;

controlled by Iroquois, 153-156;

Neuter Nation inhabit banks of, 156-157;

French occupation of, 158-213;

Cartier hears of, 165;

described by Galinee, 166-167;

Hennepin describes, 167 _seq._;

reached by La Salle, 173-186;

the _Griffon_ built on, 181 _seq._;

first fort built on, 189;

sufferings of first French troops on, 191-194;

name of, discussed by Marshall, 194-195;

Joncaire on, 197-198;

in Old French War, 200 _seq._;

French lose, 209-212;

in Revolutionary War, 217-226;

fixed as international boundary line, 223-226;

Loyalists settle upon, 227 _seq._;

in the War of 1812, 263 _seq._

Nissen, Peter, exploits at Niagara, 149-151

Noah, Maj. N. N., "New Jerusalem," 9

O

Official opening of New York Reservation, 85-95

_Ohio River, The_, see Hulbert

"Old Indian Ladder," 46

Old Stone Chimney mentioned, 15

Olmsted, F. A., on Goat Island flora, 16-18;

mentioned, 77-78, 119

Ontario Power Co., 104, 108, 112, 117

Ottawa River, in Ice Age, 63

P

Papineau in Patriot War, 290

Parkman's works quoted, 171, _seq._

Patch, Sam, jumps at Niagara, 133

Patriot War, Bourinot on the, 288-291

Peere, Stephen, tight-rope artist, 131

Percy, C. A., goes through rapids, 146-149

Perry, Lieut. O. H., captures Fort George, 274-276

Pike at the capture of York, 302 _seq._

Pittsburg Reduction and Mining Co., 118

Platt, John J., mentioned, 80

Portage, old Niagara, 15, 18

Porter's Bluff, 33

Porter, Judge, 37, 38, 96

Porter, Hon. Peter A., _Guide Book_, 11;

_Old Fort Niagara_, 11, 197, 200, 207-209, 213;

_Goat Island_, 11, 19;

on proposed attack on Fort Niagara in 1755, 207-209;

on commercial importance of Fort Niagara, 213-214

Potts, William, Niagara crank, 139

Pouchot, Gen., surrenders Fort Niagara, 209-213

_Poughkeepsie Eagle_ quoted, 80

Power development at Niagara, 99-122

Prideaux, Gen. John, captures Fort Niagara, 209 _seq._

Prospect Point, 20, 21

Q

"Quebec Act," effect of, 217-218

Queen Victoria Park, 44, 108

Queen's Royal Hotel, 51

Queenston, 50

Queenston Heights, 48;

battle on, 263 _seq._

R

Rapids of Niagara, 11-15, 22, 45, 46, 49-50;

Hunter's painting of, 11, 14

Read, D. B., _The Life and Times of General Brock_, cited, 232

Red Jacket, anecdote of, 22

Reed, Andrew, suggests reclamation of Niagara, 77

Remington, C. K., on the building-site of the _Griffon_, 183

_Road to Frontenac, The_, mentioned, 162

Robb, J. H., on first Niagara Commission, 80

Robinson, Joel, sails the _Maid of the Mist_ through lower rapids,

144-146

Rogers, Sherman S., on first Niagara Commission, 80

S

St. Davids, Ont., in the history of geologic Niagara, 63

St. Lawrence drainage, 3

St. Lawrence River, George Waldo Browne on, 4

Schlosser, Capt., 15, 213;

see Fort Schlosser

Scott, Gen. Winfield, in War of 1812, 267 _seq._

_Scribner's Monthly_ quoted, 25

Senecas dominate Niagara frontier, 5

Severance, F. H., _Old Trails of the Niagara Frontier_, 6, 219-222

Sheaffe, Gen., mentioned, 268 _seq._

Ship Island, 30

"Shipyard of the _Griffon_," the, see Remington

Shirley, Gov., plans Niagara attack, 207

"Shoreless Sea," the, 45

Silliman, Prof., Basil Hall writes, 34-35

Simcoe, Gov., John Graves, mentioned, 229, 294 _seq._

Smyth, Gen., in War of 1812, 271 _seq._

Spelterini, Signorina, tight-rope artist, 130

Spencer, J. W., estimates Niagara's age, 66

Spouting Rock, 41

Steadman Bluff, 30

Steadman, John, first owner of Goat Island, 18

Steel arch bridge, built by Roebling, 46

_Story of Canada, The_, by Bourinot, quoted, 288-291

Sullivan's campaign of 1779, 223

T

Table Rock, 38, 45

Taft, Sec'y William H., on the "destruction of Niagara," 117-120

Talbot, E. A., description of early Toronto, 308

Taylor, Mrs. A. E., barrel-fiend, 141-143

Tempest Point, 104

Terrapin Rocks, 33, 37-38

Terrapin Tower, 33, 37

Tesla, Nikola, on Niagara electrical power, 120

Thayer, Eugene, on the music of Niagara, 25-26

Thompson, Sir William, prophesies era of electricity, 77

Three Sister Island, 40

Tonawanda, N. Y., mentioned, 10

Toronto, Ont., 51;

history of, 292-313

Toronto and Niagara Power Co., 104, 105, 112, 121

Tupper, Ferdinand Brock, _The Life and Correspondence of Major-General

Sir Isaac Brock, K. B._, cited, 232

Tyndall, Prof., on Terrapin Rocks, 33

U

United Empire Loyalists, 228

Upper Canada, and Lower, divided, 295

V

Van Rensselaer, Mrs. Schuyler, on Niagara, quoted, 24, 27, 42-44

Van Rensselaer, Col. Solomon, 264-266

Van Rensselaer, Gen. Stephen, 263

Victoria Falls compared with Niagara Falls, 13

W

Wagenfuhrer, Martha E., barrel-crank at Niagara, 140

War of 1812, 263-291

Webb, Capt. Matthew, drowned at Niagara, 134-135

Welch, Thomas V., labours to enfranchise Niagara, 79;

_How Niagara was Made Free_, cited, 79-82;

mentioned, 81, 89

Whirlpool, the, 47, 50

Whitney, Gen. P., 40

Willard, Maud, Niagara crank, killed, 140

Woodward, Prof., surveys Niagara Falls, 65

Wool, Capt., hero of Queenston Heights, 265 _seq._

Wright, Dr. Geo. Frederick, makes new estimate of Niagara's age, 66-70

Y

York, Ont., Americans capture, 300-306

York Harbour, early description, 296-297

Youngstown, N. Y., 50;

skirmish at, 211

=Transcriber's Notes:=

original hyphenation, spelling and grammar have been preserved as in

the original

various "De Nonville" changed to "Denonville" [Ed. for consistency]

Page xii, "Fort Missisagga" changed to "Fort Mississauga"

Page 2, "Lake Superior. 381 miles" changed to "Lake Superior, 381 miles"

Page 3, "length. the Niagara" changed to "length, the Niagara"

Page 50, "Fort Mississagua" changed to "Fort Mississauga"

Page 82, "Albany, N Y" changed to "Albany, N. Y."

Page 88, "with the nortnerly" changed to "with the northerly"

Page 95, "made to day." changed to "made to-day."

Pages 124,126,127 "tight rope" changed to "tight-rope" [Ed. for

consistency]

Page 169, "Raddison" changed to "Radisson"

Page 179, "Belief to the fame." changed to "Belief to the same."

Page 187, "Writings, 123-186." changed to "Writings, pp. 123-186."

Page 210, "Mississaga" changed to "Mississauga"

Page 262, "this Monuument" changed to "this Monument"

Page 268, 269, "Scheaffe" changed to "Sheaffe"

Page 278 plate, "Fort Missisagua" changed to "Fort Mississauga"

Page 281, "Mississaga" changed to "Mississauga"

Page 317, "Magazine Royale" changed to "Magazine Royale,"

Page 317, "MagazineRoyale," changed to "Magazine Royale,"

Page 317, "see Niagara-on-the Lake" changed to "see Niagara-on-the-Lake"

End of Project Gutenberg's The Niagara River, by Archer Butler Hulbert

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