CHAPTER XI.

SNOW-BOUND.

The law of association is a queer piece of legislation. There is the

bit of road that used to extend from Toledo, where it connected with

the steamer, stage and canal packet, to Adrian, Michigan, where stages

took up the broken thread and jolted you on towards sunset. That road

always suggests love-apples to the writer! Love-apples in those days,

tomatoes in these. It was his first ride upon a railroad; and, reaching

Adrian, he for the first time saw and tasted the beautiful fruit that,

according to the newspapers, contains calomel and cancers. Was it a

Persian pig, or some other, that offered a crown jewel for a new dish?

Well, here was a new sensation, as strange as if the fruit that caused

it had grown in Ceylon of "the spicy breezes." The hands that served

them up are dust; the bit of road is lost in the great Lake Shore Line;

the hamlet Adrian, with its log-cabin outposts, has grown a city with

the flare and fashion of the latter day; but in the perishable tomato

the memory of that first ride, that broad, burning August day, those

pleasant friends, is assured forever.

There is the Road to Labrador, known as the Rome, Watertown &

Ogdensburg, that deludes you in winter time from modern Rome, in the

State of New York, and takes you into a world snowed clean of every

fence and vestige of civilization, except houses in white turbans set

waist-deep in the drifts. By-and-by the engine, with strange woodchuck

proclivities, falls to burrowing in a white bank, and there you wait

like a precious metal to be digged out. The wind gives Alaska howls

around the shivering car. The stoves comfort themselves with a quiet

smoke. The passengers scratch eyelet-holes in the frosted panes, and

see hospitable farmhouses within shouting range, but as inaccessible as

if they had been telescopic objects recently discovered in the moon.

The lazy wood is frying with the comforting sound of a speedy meal. The

brakemen stalk to and fro, and slam the doors, and are as talkative as

sphinxes. The women bend around the departed fire like willows around a

grave.

You wish you had Dr. Kane's "Arctic Explorations." A perusal of his

coldest chapter might warm you a little. You get out into the snow, and

flounder along to the engine. There it is, with its nose in the drift

like a setter, and sings as feebly as a tea-kettle. The water drips

through the joints of its harness, and hangs in icicles. Did you ever

see an icicle grow? Now is your time. A drop of water runs down to the

tip of the needle, halts and freezes. Then another, and another. Some

get a little way, and give out. So the icicle grows bigger. Others

manage to reach the point. So the icicle grows longer. It is about the

only vegetable that grows downward, except Spanish moss. The engineer

takes his dinner out of a little tin pail, and eats it before your

eyes. The fireman keeps up the fire, and warms his feet before your

toes. You ask the driver what is going to be done. He suspends the

polishing of a chicken bone for a second, and says, "Waitin' for time!"

Meanwhile the wind has been busy. It has chucked your hat into the

bank, and filled it with snow, Scripture measure.

You go to the rear of the train and look back. You cannot see whence

you came, nor how you ever _did_ come, nor where you will ever get

away. A brakeman starts out with a flag, and plods along the track. He

needn't. There is nothing in the world that can come, and no more

danger of colliding with a train than there is with the Fourth of July.

He has started for the last station, but he is in sight as long as you

can see him, and you could see him longer only it is getting dark.

By-and-by he returns, riding on an engine that catches us by the heels

and drags us back to the station, where the hours put a great deal of

lead in their shoes, and stalk slowly through the night. Two or three

boys come in. They are all of a bigness, like young Esquimaux. They

_are_ Esquimaux. They stand between you and the stove, and stare

at you. Like the moon, only one side of them is ever visible, and that

is the _fore_ side. They are glad there is a storm, glad the train

is stopped. It's fun. One of them has a basket of apples. You buy some.

You might as well try to eat a stalactite. They were frozen coming to

the depot, or before they started, or as soon as they ripened, and you

never knew when. Those boys laugh at your discomfiture, and you hope

there are white bears in Labrador, and that one of them is in a drift

outside with a good appetite, and that he will catch that apple-vender

and empty the basket and eat the boy! By-and-by the first engine gives

a frosty whistle and the second engine gives another, and the conductor

lets his head in at the door and shouts "All aboard!" as if he had been

hindered all this while waiting for you to buy apples and wish for

bears; and the passengers clamber into the car and huddle up, and away

they go.

There is a lecturer on board, an itinerant vender of literary wares. He

is as quiet as a statue, the coolest man in the party, and they are all

half-frozen. At Pulaski, or Mexico, or some other foreign or ancient

town upon that road, an audience awaits him. The Glee Club has sung

itself out. The village boys have burned off their boot-toes on the

red-hot stove. The blessed committee--if the town is large they number

two, but if small, then five--have gone to the depot to catch the

lecturer. He don't come, so they try to strike him with lightning, but

the wire is down and they miss him. The committee return to the hall

and dismiss the hungry ears. The ears level objurgations at the

lecturer--that word "objurgation" always reminds me of a club with a

_knot_ in it--and lift their skirts, and tie down their pantaloons,

and trail themselves home. The train rolls in on muffled wheels at

midnight, and the lecturer in it. But he does not land--not he--but

keeps on to Oswego, where are more ears. During the day he hears from

the committee. They want him to pay for lighting that hall, and making

that fire, and printing those bills, and spoiling their course, and he

pays it, and never more sees the halls of the Montezumas, if it be

Mexico, or shrieks with Campbell's Freedom, "when Kosciusko fell," if

it be Pulaski.

When thus snow-wrecked, there are several ways of getting warm without

fire, though fire is best. And just here comes in that queer law of

association. If reading about Dr. Kane's watch, that he handled with

fur gloves because it was so cold it _burned_ him, will not do,

try Mungo Park toasting to death under an African tree, or fancy

yourself wiping your brow with a dicky in the presence of an admiring

audience, or sitting down upon your new hat in a lady's parlor--if none

of these things will start the circulation, then nothing will do but

fire. That experience of yours in Labrador occurred in early April,

when bluebirds ought to be coming, and the sugar-bush bright with the

camp-fire, and you think of a ride you took in another April long ago,

upon the Memphis & Charleston Railway. You left Stevenson, a hamlet

among the Cumberlands. The train was indigo-blue with soldiers. The

country was wild with alarms. War may kill the husbandman, but it never

halts the Spring. Life is bound to break in green surges along the

woods and brighten the mountains. The air was warm as Northern June.

The sky was soft as a maiden's eye--I don't mean Minerva--the sun

unshorn of a tress of strength. You passed Huntsville, Alabama. You

were in a country lovely as a pleasant dream. The flowers all abroad in

the garden, a touch of gold upon the growing grain, the doors and

windows all set wide open. The swift train, like a shuttle in a loom,

wove the threads of green and blue, and the strands of sunshine, and

the fancy-work of flowers, into one exquisite piece of tapestry, and

laid it along the summer land. Out of the chill of the mountains, you

washed your hands in the blessed air, all tinted and perfumed, and were

glad. You left Nashville, Louisville, Indianapolis, Chicago, behind

you. You are bound for La Crosse. Twenty-four hours ago it was June.

Now it is March. The ground is frosted like a bridal loaf. The pastures

are brown. The woods lift their giant arms in silent waiting.

The engine has run over parallels of latitude as if they were shadows,

but it has done more. It has borne you from summer to winter in a round

day. The stain of ripe strawberries is on your fingers, but your

fingers are in mittens! We are all fashioned to live a great while in a

_little_ while, if we only know how. June and January are nearer

together than any other brace of months in all the year. Show us the

boy who, when he counts his temporal treasures and thinks of the Fourth

of July, does not make a mental dive for his Christmas stocking the

next minute!

The World on Wheels, and Other Sketches · 第 11 / 25 章