CHAPTER II.

THE CONCORD COACH.

Fifty miles north of Utica, New York, as the crow flies, there is a

village. What there was of it in the old days lay in the bottom of a

bay of land bounded on the north, south, and west by wooded hills, with

some stone-mason work in them older than the Vatican. But now the

beautiful town rises like a spring-tide high up the green sides of

the bay. Once in twenty-four hours over the south hill lurched a

stage-coach. The tin horn was whipped out of its sheath by the driver,

and a short, sharp, nasal twang rang out, rising sometimes in one

long clear note, that warbled away in an acoustic ringlet, like its

aristocratic cousin with a mouth like a brazen morning-glory--the

bugle.

Every thing in the little village was broad awake. Doors flew open,

faces were framed in at the windows, children hung on the gates. Then

the driver gathered up the ribbons of his four-in-hand, swung off from

the coach-top his long-lashed whip with its silken cracker, flicked

artistically the off leader's "nigh" ear, gave the wheelers a

neighborly slap, and with jingle of chains and rattle of bolt, and a

sea-going rock and swing, down the hill he thundered and through the

main street, the horses' ears laid close to their heads like a running

rabbit's, a great cloud of dust rolling up behind the leather "boot"

the color of an elephant, the passengers looking out at the stage

windows, until, with a jolt and one sharp summons of the horn, like

the note of a vexed and exasperated bee, the craft brings-to at the

Post-office, and the driver whirls the padlocked pouch out from under

his mighty boots to the ground, and then exploding the tip-end of

his twelve-foot lash like a pistol-shot, he makes a sweep and comes

about with a rattling halt in front of the stage-house. The fat old

landlord--fat and old when you were a boy, and alive yet--shuffles out

in slippers, opens the coach-door, swings down the little iron ladder

with two rounds, and the passengers make a landing. One of them may

have been General Brady, the man who said, or so they say, when told he

could not survive the illness that prostrated him, "Beat the drum, the

knapsack's slung, and Hugh Brady is ready to march!" Or it may have

been Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king, and yet with his head on, which is

not after the historic manner of monarchs out of business, going to

his wilderness possessions in the North Woods. Or it may have been

Frederick Hassler, the Swiss, Chief of the United States Survey in

the long ago, _en route_ for Cape Vincent--the man who knew more and

tougher mathematics than all of his successors together, and who could

say more while the hostlers were changing horses than anybody else

could say in sixty minutes. Meanwhile the spanking team, loosed from

the coach, file off in a knowing way and a cloud of steam, meeting with

a snort of recognition the relay that is filing out to take their

places.

[Illustration: THE CONCORD COACH]

That yellow, mud-bespattered stage, with "E. Merriam, No. _something_,"

blazoned on the doors, was the one thing that linked the small

village with the great world, brought tidings of wars, accidents and

incidents, that had grown gray on the journey, and word from far-away

friends whose graves might have waxed green while the letters they had

written, and secured with a round red moon of a wafer, and sealed with

a thumb or a thimble, were yet trampled beneath the driver's feet like

grain on the threshing-floor. Think of that coach creeping like an

insect, for sixpence a mile, and five miles to the hour, to and fro

between East and West, the only established means of communication!

Think of its nine passengers inside, knocked about like the unlucky

ivories in a dice-box, between New York and Detroit, between Boston

and Washington. They get in, all strangers; the ladies on the back

seat, the man who is sea-sick, by one coach-window, the man that chews

"the weed, it was the devil sowed the seed," at the other; somebody

going to Congress, somebody going for goods, somebody going to be

married. They are all packed in at last like sardines, with perhaps an

urchin chucked into some crevice, to make all snug. There are ten

sorts of feet, and two of a sort, dovetailed in a queer mosaic upon

the coach-floor. The door closes with a bang, the driver fires a

ringing shot or two from his whip-lash, and away they pitch and lurch.

Think of them riding all day, all night, all day again, crushed hats

and elbowed ribs, jumping up and bouncing down into each other's laps

every little while with some plunge of the coach; butting at each

other in a belligerent way, now and then, as if "Aries the ram" were

the ruling sign for human kind; begging each other's pardon, laughing

at each other's mishaps, strangers three hours ago, getting to know

each other well and like each other heartily, and parting at last

with a clasp of the hand and a sigh of regret. I think a fifty-mile

battering in a stage-coach used to shake people out of the shell of

their crustaceous proprieties, and make more lifelong friends than a

voyage of five thousand miles by rail. The contemplation for a day or

two of a woman's back-hair or a man's bumps of combativeness, is about

as merry as a catacomb tea-party, and about as conducive to lively

friendships.

All of us who have arrived at years of discretion--had Methuselah?--have

had a suspicion for some time that this is not the same world we were

born into. Such a looking-over-the-shoulder as the writer has just

indulged in brightens the dim suspicion into certainty. It _is_ a

grander world, with grander needs and agencies to match. The little

iron wheels have trundled the big wooden wheels out of the way. The

dear old Concord coaches of the past are driven to the confines of

civilization. Jehu has swung himself down from his box, thrust the butt

end of his whip-stock into the tin horn's mouth, hung them up on a nail

behind the door, and died. The swallows flash in and out at the diamond

lights in the old stage barn, its only occupants.

I visited Fort Scott a while ago--Fort Scott, Kansas, that wonderful

bit of metropolitan vigor in the wilderness. The Missouri, Kansas and

Texas Railroad had reached it, and gone on to the Indian country. It

had been a grand center for radiating stage lines, and the day the

stages were to break up camp at Fort Scott and go deeper into Kansas,

farther into Missouri, somebody, who had caught the sentiment of the

thing, proposed that all the coaches should be grouped in one place,

and a photographer should train his piece of small artillery upon

them, and so they should be "taken." The picture is before me. The

four-in-hands, the great coaches, the snug covered hacks for the cross

cuts, the drivers in position, drivers and stages alike "all full

inside," and a sprinkling of deck passengers. It was the work of an

instant; the coaches were emptied and wheeled away, to be seen and

heard and welcomed and looked after in Fort Scott no more.

The World on Wheels, and Other Sketches · 第 2 / 25 章