THE SEA WALL

A singular love of walls is mine. Perhaps because of childish

association with mountain-climbing roads narrow in the bright shadows of

grey stone, hiding olive trees whereof the topmost leaves prick above

into the blue; or perhaps because of subsequent living in London, with

its too many windows and too few walls, the city which of all capitals

takes least visible hold upon the ground; or for the sake of some other

attraction or aversion, walls, blank and strong, reaching outward at the

base, are a satisfaction to the eyes teased by the inexpressive peering

of windows, by that weak lapse and shuffling which is the London "area,"

and by the helpless hollows of shop-fronts.

I would rather have a wall than any rail but a very good one of wrought-

iron. A wall is the safeguard of simplicity. It lays a long level line

among the indefinite chances of the landscape. But never more majestic

than in face of the wild sea, the wall, steadying its slanting foot upon

the rock, builds in the serried ilex-wood and builds out the wave. The

sea-wall is the wall at its best. And fine as it is on the strong coast,

it is beautiful on the weak littoral and the imperilled levels of a

northern beach.

That sea wall is low and long; sea-pinks grow on the salt grass that

passes away into shingle at its foot. It is at close quarters with the

winter sea, when, from the low coast with its low horizon, the sky-line

of sea is jagged. Never from any height does the ocean-horizon show thus

broken and battered at its very verge, but from the flat coast and the

narrow world you can see the wave as far as you can see the water; and

the stormy light of a clear horizon is seen to be mobile and shifting

with the buoyant hillocks and their restless line.

Nowhere in Holland does there seem to be such a low sea-wall as secures

many a mile of gentle English coast to the east. The Dutch dyke has not

that aspect of a lowly parapet against a tide; it springs with a look of

haste and of height; and when you first run upstairs from the encumbered

Dutch fields to look at the sea, there is nothing in the least like

England; and even the Englishman of to-day is apt to share something of

the old perversity that was minded to cast derision upon the Dutch in

their encounters with the tides.

There has been some fault in the Dutch, making them subject to the slight

derision of the nations who hold themselves to be more romantic, and, as

it were, more slender. We English, once upon a time, did especially

flout the little nation then acting a history that proved worth the

writing. It may be no more than a brief perversity that has set a number

of our writers to cheer the memory of Charles II. Perhaps, even, it is

no more than another rehearsal of that untiring success at the expense of

the bourgeois. The bourgeois would be more simple than, in fact, he is

were he to stand up every time to be shocked; but, perhaps, the image of

his dismay is enough to reward the fancy of those who practise the wanton

art. And, when all is done, who performs for any but an imaginary

audience? Surely those companies of spectators and of auditors are not

the least of the makings of an author. A few men and women he achieves

within his books; but others does he create without, and to those figures

of all illusion makes the appeal of his art. More candid is the author

who has no world, but turns that appeal inwards to his own heart. He has

at least a living hearer.

This is by the way. Charles II has been cheered; the feat is done, the

dismay is imagined with joy. And yet the Merry Monarch's was a dismal

time. Plague, fire, the arrears of pension from the French King

remembered and claimed by the restored throne of England, and the Dutch

in the Medway--all this was disaster. None the less, having the vanity

of new clothes and a pretty figure, did we--especially by the mouth of

Andrew Marvell--deride our victors, making sport of the Philistines with

a proper national sense of enjoyment of such physical disabilities, or

such natural difficulties, or such misfavour of fortune, as may beset the

alien.

Especially were the denials of fortune matter for merriment. They are so

still; or they were so certainly in the day when a great novelist found

the smallness of some South German States to be the subject of unsating

banter. The German scenes at the end of "Vanity Fair," for example, may

prove how much the ridicule of mere smallness, fewness, poverty (and not

even real poverty, privation, but the poverty that shows in comparison

with the gold of great States, and is properly in proportion) rejoiced

the sense of humour in a writer and moralist who intended to teach

mankind to be less worldly. In Andrew Marvell's day they were even more

candid. The poverty of privation itself was provocative of the sincere

laughter of the inmost man, the true, infrequent laughter of the heart.

Marvell, the Puritan, laughed that very laughter--at leanness, at hunger,

cold, and solitude--in the face of the world, and in the name of

literature, in one memorable satire. I speak of "Flecno, an English

Priest in Rome," wherein nothing is spared--not the smallness of the

lodging, nor the lack of a bed, nor the scantiness of clothing, nor the

fast.

"This basso-rilievo of a man--"

personal meagreness is the first joke and the last.

It is not to be wondered at that he should find in the smallness of the

country of Holland matter for a cordial jest. But, besides the

smallness, there was that accidental and natural disadvantage in regard

to the sea. In the Venetians, commerce with the sea, conflict with the

sea, a victory over the sea, and the ensuing peace--albeit a less instant

battle and a more languid victory--were confessed to be noble; in the

Dutch they were grotesque. "With mad labour," says Andrew Marvell, with

the spirited consciousness of the citizen of a country well above ground

and free to watch the labour at leisure, "with mad labour" did the Dutch

"fish the land to shore."

How did they rivet with gigantic piles,

Thorough the centre, their new-catched miles,

And to the stake a struggling country bound,

Where barking waves still bait the forced ground;

Building their watery Babel far more high

To reach the sea than those to scale the sky!

It is done with a jolly wit, and in what admirable couplets!

The fish oft-times the burgher dispossessed,

And sat, not as a meat, but as a guest.

And it is even better sport that the astonished tritons and sea-nymphs

should find themselves provided with a capital _cabillau_ of shoals of

pickled Dutchmen (heeren for herring, says Marvell); and it must be

allowed that he rhymes with the enjoyment of irony. There is not a smile

for us in "Flecno," but it is more than possible to smile over this

"Character of Holland"; at the excluded ocean returning to play at leap-

frog over the steeples; at the rise of government and authority in

Holland, which belonged of right to the man who could best invent a

shovel or a pump, the country being so leaky:-

Not who first sees the rising sun commands,

But who could first discern the rising lands.

We have lost something more than the delighted laughter of Marvell, more

than his practical joke, and more than the heart that was light in so

burly a frame--we have lost with these the wild humour that wore so well

the bonds of two equal lines, and was wild with so much order, invention,

malice, gaiety, polish, equilibrium, and vitality--in a word, the

Couplet, the couplet of the past. We who cannot stand firm within two

lines, but must slip beyond and between the boundaries, who tolerate the

couplets of Keats and imitate them, should praise the day of Charles II

because of Marvell's art, and not for love of the sorry reign. We had

plague, fire, and the Dutch in the Medway, but we had the couplet; and

there were also the measures of those more poetic poets, hitherto called

somewhat slightingly the Cavalier poets, who matched the wit of the

Puritan with a spirit simpler and less mocking.

It was against an English fortress, profoundly walled, that some

remembered winter storms lately turned their great artillery. It was a

time of resounding nights; the sky was so clamorous and so close, up in

the towers of the seaside stronghold, that one seemed to be indeed

admitted to the perturbed counsels of the winds. The gale came with an

indescribable haste, hooting as it flew; it seemed to break itself upon

the heights, yet passed unbroken out to sea; in the voice of the sea

there were pauses, but none in that of the urgent gale with its hoo-hoo-

hoo all night, that clamoured down the calling of the waves. That lack

of pauses was the strangest thing in the tempest, because the increase of

sound seemed to imply a lull before. The lull was never perceptible, but

the lift was always an alarm. The onslaught was instant, where would it

stop? What was the secret extreme to which this hurry and force were

tending? You asked less what thing was driving the flocks of the storm

than what was drawing them. The attraction seemed the greater violence,

the more irresistible, and the more unknown. And there were moments when

the end seemed about to be attained.

The wind struck us hasty blows, and unawares we borrowed, to describe it,

words fit for the sharp strokes of material things; but the fierce gale

is soft. Along the short grass, trembling and cowering flat on the

scarped hill-side, against the staggering horse, against the flint walls,

one with the rock they grasp, the battery of the tempest is a quick and

enormous softness. What down, what sand, what deep moss, what elastic

wave could match the bed and cushion of the gale?

This storm tossed the wave and the stones of the sea-wall up together.

The next day it left the waters white with the thrilling whiteness of

foam in sunshine. It was only the Channel; and in such narrow waters you

do not see the distances, the wide levels of fleeting and floating foam,

that lie light between long wave and long wave on a Mediterranean coast,

regions of delicate and transitory brightness so far out that all the

waves, near and far, seem to be breaking at the same moment, one beyond

the other, and league beyond league, into foam. But the Channel has its

own strong, short curl that catches the rushing shingle up with the

freshest of all noises and runs up with sudden curves, white upon the

white sea-wall, under the random shadow of sea-gulls and the light of a

shining cloud.

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