leaving the soldiers, two European women (Mrs. Wade and Mrs. Burnes),
and the child Seymour Stoker, with all the maimed servants, and those
that would not go with us. The women and child certainly ought to have
accompanied us.
We went to Ali Kund, a rather long march, and found the Sirdar there,
seated in his nalkee, and looking very ill. He was particular in bowing
to us all, making every demonstration of civility.
Three tents were pitched for us on a pretty and green spot. The valley
was beautiful under cultivation; and to us doubly so, from our not
having seen a blade of grass for so long a time.
The field pea was in blossom; several sorts of cranesbill, gentian,
forget-me-not, campions, &c.
Having taken the precaution to have some fowls roasted over night, we
got a good meal; and we design, whenever we march, and can procure them,
to do the same.
As we marched through the valley, we saw the effects of the late
earthquake: not a fort was entire; very few habitable; and most of them
masses of ruins.
Sultan Jan arrived this evening from the Khyber. Truly, the Persian
expression of a man's face being blackened is true: he looks very black
upon his late defeat in the Khyber; and has returned with 50, all that
remain to him of 500 men he took there. I had no idea, before our
captivity, that people could become so changed by sunburn; the Europeans
looking like the Affghans, and the Affghans as dark as Hindostanees.
_12th._--Set out at eight A.M., and arrived at our ground at five P.M.;
a very long march over a sterile country. We only twice met with water,
which was very shallow, and so sandy that our horses would not drink it.
We did not see a vestige of a habitation, nor any cultivation.
We left the Adanek Beeduck pass to our left; and travelled up and down a
number of very difficult mountain passes. Mahommed Akbar Khan passed us;
bowed, and smiled--"He can smile, and smile, and be a villain." I shook
hands with Moyenoodeen, who is also arrived from the Khyber. He looks
what is vulgarly called down in the mouth. He appeared afraid of
acknowledging his acquaintance with me; and stealthily came to inquire
if my wound was well. He was with Sale in the Kohistan; and then, and
still, professes to be his friend, and the friend of the English in
general.
_13th._--Made a march of about twelve miles: the country sterile and
rocky; the road rather better than yesterday; only one very awkward
ascent, when all the ladies got out of their kujavas. I always ride; and
have my own saddle: but some of the ladies are obliged to ride gentleman
fashion, sitting on their beddings instead of saddles.
The road was mostly up and down hill. We passed two small forts, with
patches of cultivation near them, not far from our encamping ground. We
found it very hot in our tent. This tent is one division of a common
Sipahee's pall. We have taken up our places; and always retain them. Our
party consists of Mrs. Trevor and five of her children, and Mrs. Sturt
and myself, on one side; on the other Mrs. Boyd and her three children,
Lady Macnaghten, Mrs. Mainwaring and child, Capt. and Mrs. Anderson and
two children, and Capt. Lawrence. The other tents are similarly crammed:
all spread their beddings (which touch each other) upon the ground.
_14th._--A very tiresome hill on setting out,--the Bādhpush or Windy
Back: the ascent rather difficult: the descent could be made good for
guns with 100 sappers in a few days. Saw plenty of fruit trees in
blossom on the hill; at the foot of which we halted, dismounted, and sat
on the ground till all our people got over; and found Mahommed Shah's
sons with large bouquets of tulips. I observed the mistletoe, the myrrh,
ilex, &c. The rest of the march was along a tolerably good road. We
crossed the same stream at least twenty times. Saw some purple iris's.
We were detained a long time at the Cabul river; which we crossed on a
_jhala_ (or raft) supported on inflated skins; and encamped close to the
bank, but further down the stream, as the current was very rapid: the
river is said to be twenty feet deep at some places. Here we found
Mahommed Akbar Khan. Our baggage came up at dusk, as also the tents; but
a great deal did not get over, and has to wait for daylight. Several
horses swam over; and their efforts, and those of their riders, were a
source of great interest to us.
_15th April._--We did not leave our encampment until the middle of the
day; when we found the sand dreadfully hot. We came only four or five
miles to Sehruby; and pitched our tents not far distant from Abdoollah
Khan's fort. There were no kujavas to-day, and great grumbling thereat
amongst the ladies. A report, which we fervently hope is untrue, that
all the hostages left at Cabul are murdered.
I saw plenty of amaryllis in bloom; as also of the Persian iris (the
orris of the druggists), which quite scented the air with a perfume
resembling that of mingled violets and wall-flowers.
_16th._--We halted. All manner of reports to-day,--that the King has not
been murdered, but is in power with the Dooranees, the Populzyes, and
Akukzyes, who are in the ascendant; whilst the Barukzyes are at a
discount:--that great commotion exists in Cabul:--that the soldiers, who
were left there, are to remain; but the officers are to come and join us
at Tézeen to-morrow; whither we are to march, and go by roads
impracticable for cattle; all to walk, to Herat: we are to be there in
two months, after which we are to be sent to Balkh.
_17th._--Halted again, probably waiting for the four kujavas that the
Sirdar has ordered Mahommed Shah Khan to furnish us with. They say we go
to Tezeen to-morrow: the mirza is off in advance, in great haste. Our
troops are said to be near; and the Affghans are going to chupao them.
The Sirdar has fallen back on the river, to confer with the Chief of
Tagow.
This day I was attacked with fever.
_18th._--Halted. Mahommed Shah Khan is gone off to Cabul; we are to go
to the hills above Tézeen, and stay there till all is settled. If only a
small force comes up, the Affghans mean to cut them up in the Khoord
Cabul; if a large force come, they will succumb at once. I was worse
to-day: a pleasant prospect, as we daily expect to march. Our troops are
said to be still at Lallpoorah, quieting refractory tribes.
_19th._--A miserable day, and we marched through heavy rains to Tézeen:
we are told that no supplies were to be had where we were. Kodá Buksh
Khan's fort, close at hand, is full of loot and plate. The earthquake
has brought down part of the fort they have brought us to.
The Sirdar could only get two camels with kujavas; but gave up his own
palkee to Lady Macnaghten and me. I was utterly incapable of sitting on
horseback: however, as I had to sit backwards, with very little room,
nothing to lean against, and to keep a balance against Lady M. and Mrs.
Boyd's baby, I benefited but little, except in the grandeur of a royal
equipage. My turban and habit were completely saturated by the rain; and
I shivered as I went. On arrival at the fort, I was told to go into the
room where Mahommed Shah's and the other chief's ladies were. They
received us with great kindness; and kept heaping up three large fires
for us to dry our clothes by. The court yard was a deep mass of mud; and
in the evening Affghans carried us on their backs across it to another
apartment, which was nicely covered with _numdas_: our beddings were all
regularly sopped through. The whole of the baggage was sent on to the
camp, with our servants. A dinner was cooked for us,--a huge dish of
rice, with dhye (sour curds) in the centre, and ghee poured over all!
This is a favourite Affghan dish, and therefore my bad taste must be
arraigned for thinking it not eatable. Fortunately I had a little tea
and sugar in a bag, suspended from the crupper of my saddle: they gave
us some milk, and I found tea the most refreshing repast. We stretched
ourselves on the numdas (coarse felt carpets) in our still wet clothes.
In the night I began shivering again; and Capt. Anderson, my nearest bed
mate, covered me with a bed cloak, which, strange to say, soon imparted
warmth to me. We slept, large and small, thirty-four in a room 15 feet
by 12; and we lay on the floor, literally packed together, with a wood
fire in the centre, and using pine torches for candles.
_20th._--The Sirdar fears if he is taken by us, we shall either hang him
or blow him from a gun. Mahommed Shah Khan is in a great fright also.
Sultan Jan appears to be our bitterest enemy. The Sirdar says _he alone_
could take us through the country: or, if he wished it, he could
assemble 5000 men at any point to attack us.
It is said that Mackenzie is to go to Jellalabad on a secret mission. He
will not be allowed to take any letters for individuals.
We had rain all day; and our wet chogahs, &c. hanging up, increased the
damp. I wrote a few lines in pencil to Sale by a trooper who expected to
go with Mackenzie, recommending both this trooper himself (Oomar Khan),
and the Rajah Ali Bahadur to him: both have been very useful to us. We
had rain all day, and three earthquakes.
Mackenzie did not go after all.
Mrs. Waller increased the community, giving birth to a daughter: she,
Mrs. Waller, and Mr. and Mrs. Eyre got a room to themselves and their
children, diminishing our number to twenty-nine. A slight earthquake,
and a fine night.
_21st._--A fine sunshiny day: we went out to camp; getting on the first
horses we could find: mine was a half-starved beast that could scarcely
put one foot before the other. We had scarcely a mile to go. We hear
that we are to halt here one day; and then to go to Zenganah, where the
snow is four feet deep, and to stay there for four months. Rain in the
evening; and very heavy rain at night. The General, who is said to be
dying, Pottinger, Mackenzie, Dr. Magrath, the Eyres and Wallers, are
left at the fort.
Major Pottinger expostulated with Akbar; and told him that surely he did
not make war on women and children, and that it was great cruelty to
drive us about the country in the way they are doing; that when the Dost
and the ladies of his family (amongst them Akbar's wife, the daughter of
Mahommed Shah Khan) went to Hindostan, they travelled with every comfort
procurable, and probably many more than they would have experienced in
their own country. To this he replied, I will do whatever you wish: but
Mahommed Shah Khan is gone to Cabul; the very bread I eat I get from
him; and until he returns I cannot do any thing. He however insists that
he has a letter from Hindostan, in which it is asserted that his father
has twenty sentries over him, and offered to show the letter to Capt.
Lawrence; who said he cared not who wrote the letter: it was
untrue:--that the Dost has a guard: but so far from being a close
prisoner, he being fond of hawking, &c., goes out when and where he
pleases, with an escort of horse, which would be given in compliment to
his station, as in the case of the royal families of Delhi, &c.; and
that any restraint the women are placed under, is at the sole desire of
the Dost himself.
_22nd._--We were roused before daylight with orders to march
immediately; and as we had fully expected to halt for another day or
two, all was confusion.
I was still too weak to ride; and Mrs. Boyd kindly gave me her place in
the kujava, I carrying her baby. It was my first attempt, and the
conveyance was a particularly small one of the kind; for when the resai
was put in to sit on, there was not one foot and a half square; and I
found (being rather a tall person) the greatest difficulty in doubling
up my long legs into the prescribed compass.
On inquiry, I found that our departure was occasioned by the arrival of
a letter from Cabul; stating that Futteh Jung, son of the deceased Shah
Shoojah, was coming with 400 horse to carry us off, as a card to play in
his own favour.
Zeman Shah Khan, acting-King in Cabul, also demands us. Akbar wants to
keep us: but both he and we are in the hands of Mahommed Shah Khan; who
says he never took place or present from us; that he hated us always;
and will be our enemy to the last.
We came to-day about twelve miles up the bed of a deep ravine, crossing
the stream at least fifty times. From our last encampment we could see
Kodah Buksh Khan's fort, looking very pretty, surrounded with fine trees
in blossom.
On first starting, we passed on our right a large mountain-slip, caused
by the earthquake near to a cave, where there are a great number of
bodies. The hills were very precipitous on our left, and high on both
sides. We also passed a cave at some small distance, in front of which
were some dead bodies and many bones strewed about: and, from the blood
close to its entrance, there is every reason to believe that the
inhabitants were supporting nature by devouring each other. I saw three
poor wretches crawling on hands and knees just within the cave: but all
we had to bestow upon them was pity, not unmingled with horror at the
evidences of cannibalism but too apparent. These miserable creatures
called to us for that relief which we had it not in our power to afford;
and we can only hope that their sufferings were speedily terminated by
death.
No guns excepting those of the mountain train could travel this road;
and cavalry and infantry would be greatly annoyed from the heights.
We did not go direct up the Tézeen valley; but took the right hand
valley, which leads to the Jubhar Khail country, considered as the
strongest of the Ghilzye mountain fastnesses. We passed an old Ghilzye
fort on an eminence on our right; also a small colony of charcoal
makers, resident in mud huts, and encamped at a second place of the same
kind. Ice six inches thick in places close to the road; and plenty of
snow from six to eight inches deep on the sides of it.
_23rd._--Being still very weak, I am glad to hear we are likely to halt
here eight days. Khojeh Mahommed Khan seems very anxious regarding some
terms being made with the Feringhees: the _bahadurs_ notwithstanding;
and says he can bring two lakhs of fighting men against us.
The Ghazeeas are getting discontented; and complain that they have had
no food for four days.
The Sirdar has ordered our horses back to Tézeen: he says he cannot feed
them here.
_24th._--The General died last night, and his remains are to be sent to
Jellalabad. Mackenzie was sent there on a secret mission just
afterwards. The General's death was hastened by a rumour of a Chupao
from Cabul the very day we left Tézeen. At mid-day all were put on
horseback, and sent off to a fort near at hand. In the general hurry to
save themselves, Mrs. Waller, with her two children, seemed to be quite
forgotten. Mr. Waller went to Major Pottinger, who was mounted on his
horse, and who said all must do the best they could for themselves; but
that no doubt accommodation would be given. On this Mr. Waller, who
cannot speak Persian, applied to Capt. Mackenzie; who went to Akbar
Khan, and represented to him how shocking a thing it was to leave a lady
and two children to have their throats cut. An old kujava was found, and
strung; and some Affghans carried it on a pole. Three wives of one of
the chiefs were also left in a great fright; but they procured some
conveyance also. Pottinger was hurried off in such haste that he could
not remonstrate.
Mahommed Shah Khan says he will not give us any thing besides ottah. I
suppose he keeps all the good things for the Affghan ladies; some of
whom inhabit two mud huts on the hill, and the others are lodged in
black tents more fragile than our own. Mahommed Rufeek, our present
keeper and purveyor, has purchased twelve sheep on his own account for
us; and Mahommed Akbar Khan has sent twelve camels to Cabul to bring
rice and ghee. We are also busy making chebootras: we hang up our resais
and blankets for roof and walls, and find they make very comfortable
places to sit in all day.
_25th._--A report that Macgregor is to exchange us against an equal
number of Affghan ladies and children at Loodianah; and that we are to
be released in a few days.
_26th._--A report to-day that the Jellalabad army are moving upwards and
the Cabul one downwards. The Affghans say that their force consists of
11,000 men.
_27th._--The Sirdar and Major Pottinger paid us a visit. The former
tells us we are not to be angry; that nothing is procurable here; that
he has sent to Cabul for every thing for us. He brought some native
shoes and cloth for distribution. Miller and Moore, the two soldiers who
attended on the General, have been liberated: but Akbar says that it is
not prudent to let them go at present, as the roads are unsafe!
_28th._--We have converted our chebootras into arbours made of juniper.
We were driven from ours to-day before dinner by a shower of rain. At
night we had thunder, hail, and showers of rain, that came on in gusts.
It is said that the Sirdar has intercepted a letter from Conolly to
Macgregor regarding some treaty with Amenoollah Khan for 3 lakhs: and
that Kohundif Khan (the Dost's brother), with 8000 Persians, is moving
on Kandahar. If this is true, it involves a quarrel with Persia.
A number of the Sirdar's men are said to have gone off to-day; having
struck for arrears of pay. The Sirdar offered them 5 rupees each, but
they demanded 10. A relief guard of seven men has arrived with some
petty chief.
We have just heard that Miller was disguised as an Affghan to lead the
camel that conveyed the General's body. Moore looked too English to
attempt it. Near Jugdaluk, the party of ten horsemen were attacked, and
the box, which was supposed to contain treasure, broken open. We at
first heard that they had mutilated the poor old man's body; but only a
few stones were thrown, one of which struck the head.
Miller was beaten a good deal, and wounded with a knife; but saved his
life by saying he was a Mussulman: he had to return. The body was sent
on; but I believe there is as yet no authentic account of its arrival at
Jellalabad.
Mahommed Shah Khan arrived at night.
_30th April._--A messenger came in from Amenoollah Khan. The government
have refused to pay the 14½ lakhs; and the Affghans say that
Pottinger and Lawrence are answerable for it. Is not Akbar more
answerable for the non-fulfilment of the treaty? he who went to the
Durbar, booted, (on the 7th of January,) ready to start after our army
for the avowed purpose of its annihilation?
The Rajah has come in; he goes off to Cabul again to-morrow. Goolam
Moyen oo deen also came to see us: he goes with the Sirdar to Tézeen
to-day.
All accounts seem to agree in this: that although the Affghans are
raising troops in Cabul, yet they seem to be as likely to fight against
each other as against us.
Our soldiers who were left at Cabul, have been sent to Logur
(Amenoollah's country). The hostages are placed in the hands of the son
of the high priest, Bucha-i Meer Wyse.
It is reported that the Dost has written to Akbar Khan to say, that, if
there is any chance of regaining the throne, he was to fight for it; but
if not, not to drive us women and children about the country; as it was
against his interest that we should be ill treated. Perhaps he pities
the wives of all these Ghilzye chiefs, who go wherever we do: they
however have the best and largest kujavas, and plenty of them; whilst
with us, many ladies very unfit to ride, are forced to do so, and even
without side or any saddles; for myself, I would rather walk than be
again packed into a kujava.
_1st May._--Futteh Jung, Amenoollah, and the Populzyes are in the Bala
Hissar. The new king, Zeman Shah Khan, and Osman Khan, with the
Barukzyes, are in the city. They have sixteen guns; and want the former
party to join them; but they refuse to do so, saying that the others
inveigled Shah Shoojah out, and killed him.
Neither party will have any thing to do with Akbar; who, they say, plays
a double part, and killed all our army. Mahommed Shah Khan wants to get
Akbar to Cabul: but he refuses to go, from dread of assassination.
He (Akbar) wishes to be made a consequential chief of some part of the
country; and would probably give us up, had he the power: but Mahommed
Shah Khan is very powerful, and averse to the project.
_2nd._--All Cabul is in an uproar, the people fighting amongst
themselves. Khojeh Mahommed took some of the officers out shooting:
whilst on the hills, they heard the report of guns; and were told that
the firing was at Cabul; about thirty miles off in a direct line.
In a conference with Pottinger, Troup, and many other English and
Affghans,--amongst the latter Mahommed Shah Khan,--Mahommed Akbar Khan
became greatly excited. He said, that on the religious cry being raised,
he killed the Envoy, he destroyed our army; and now that he has drawn
down the vengeance of the British upon him, the rest are deserting him:
that he has kept his feelings pent up within his own breast, until they
have preyed upon his vitals; and that, were he in power now, he would
exterminate every one of the recreant Mussulmans who have deserted him,
and left him to obloquy.
A cossid has arrived from Cabul; where there has been a fight, in which
Zeman Shah Khan has been victorious. One of Amenoollah's sons is killed;
and Hamza Khan is wounded: but Futteh Jung and Amenoollah are still in
possession of the Bala Hissar.
_3rd._--Amenoollah Khan has been worsted. The Sirdar has sent troops,
under his cousin Shamshudeen, to lay waste the Logur country, destroy
the forts, and capture the women: for all which Akbar promises a reward
of 30,000 rupees.
It is now reported that we are to go in three or four days to Ghuznee,
where the Sirdar's cousin Shumshudeen commands. I heard from Sale. The
Wallers and Eyres arrived from Tézeen.
_4th._--The Sirdar is gone or going to Cabul.
Capt. Troup is just summoned to join him and Pottinger: Magrath remains
at Tézeen; and Mackenzie, they say, is gone back to Jellalabad again.
Another account states that Amenoollah has fled to the Logur country,
and that Futteh Jung holds the Bala Hissar. Further accounts state that
Amenoollah, although defeated, got safe into the Bala Hissar. 200
horsemen have been sent from Cabul to the Sirdar: Zeman Shah Khan
invites him to assume the throne. He was sleeping when they arrived; but
the prospect of a crown soon chased his slumbers; and he was quickly on
horseback with Pottinger, leaving orders for Troup, on his arrival, to
follow. Mackenzie was not to go to Jellalabad; but to wait half way for
further orders from the Sirdar.
The Sirdar has been urgent (but ineffectually of course) with Mr. Eyre
to go to Cabul to lay his guns for him. We hear that the hostages are
all again with Zeman Shah Khan.
_7th._--I have before adverted to Mackenzie's secret mission to
Jellalabad. It was first, to ascertain what terms our party would
propose: the reply was an offer of two lakhs of rupees for all the
prisoners, and that the sooner we were given up to our own people the
greater would be the friendship of our government; that, in consequence
of the protection afforded us by Dost Mahommed Khan, and Mahommed Shah
Khan, their families and possessions would not be attacked: but that the
grand question of peace or war, and the settlement of the country, must
depend upon replies to be received from the Governor-General. The Sirdar
has sent in his rejoinder by Mackenzie; saying, he does not want money;
nothing but the friendship of our nation; and that if the ladies and
children go, he cannot part with the gentlemen yet.
Gen. Pollock has issued a proclamation, that whoever remains quiet will
be unmolested.
Threats are held out that if our troops move up higher than Gundamuk, we
shall also be taken 20 miles further up into the hills. To this there
are two objections: we are now above the Tézeen valley, in the Jubhar
Khail country; these people declare we shall not go further, or if we do
they will themselves take us to our army, for they do not want to bring
down upon themselves the vengeance of our nation; secondly, we have no
carriage: there is little doubt, that Mahommed Shah Khan would care
little for our being obliged to leave behind our clothes and the few
comforts we have, but we cannot be expected to walk; and the Sirdar or
some of the chiefs have taken away to Cabul both our riding horses and
baggage ponies.