Bray was a particularly interesting place--now, alas! much shattered

through heavy shelling. The main road running through it is a steep

hill, from the top of which, just before entering the village, was to be

obtained a most beautiful landscape view, in which was included the

lines of British and German trenches, which could be distinctly seen

from this point on a clear day with the naked eye. At this time our ----

Army had just taken over from the French an additional bit of the line

north of the Somme and east of Albert, which stretched approximately

from Hebuterne in the north to Carnoy in the south, and at these points

our trenches linked up with those of the French. So, passing through

the villages in this district, it was not uncommon to find khaki-clad

British Tommies in one village and blue-clad French _poilus_ in the

next, each out of the trenches for a few days' rest in billets. A small

village full of French troops, dressed in their looped-up-at-the-knee

greatcoats of that wonderful pale blue which is the colour of the

service uniform of the French Army, and with their blue anti-shrapnel

steel helmets--the mass of colour vying with the blue of a summer

sky--presents a wonderful picture. The colour of their uniform is, in

fact, officially designated _le bleu d'horizon_, and is, I believe,

particularly indistinguishable at a distance. If there was a shortage

of anti-shrapnel helmets in the British Army in 1915, there was

certainly none in the French. Every soldier seemed to have been

provided with one, even down to the old Territorials employed in

repairing the roads in the lines of communication; and the gendarme

fifty miles behind the line would wear one, presumably for the same

reason that a miller wears a white hat. The British variety, which is

of a pale sea-green colour, round in shape and with a flat brim, and

frequently has a home-made cover of drab sackcloth, is certainly not so

beautiful either in shape or colour as the oval French casque, and

reminds one rather of the head-dress of a Korean. It is heavier, and, I

believe, has proved itself more effective in actual practice, than the

French type, as a protection against shrapnel bullets.

This was our first view of French troops _en masse_. First-line

regiments of the French Army are composed of men of fine physique and

sound discipline. It would be ridiculous to discuss their qualities as

fighting men: one has only to think of Verdun. Their equipment is

extremely heavy; they never seem to march in step; they attack with

extraordinary "dash," and they "get there" every time. Their artillery,

so largely composed of the famous _soixante-quinze_ guns, is

incomparable. I remember at Lillers, in 1914, seeing batteries of these

75's on the move and passing through the town one after the other

continuously for seven hours.

There is one thing which differentiates Monsieur le Poilu from Mr.

Thomas Atkins in the matter of smartness, and that is that the former

will not shave himself regularly. Tommy, on the other hand, no matter

under what difficulties he is existing, is always well groomed and has a

clean chin.

I have already referred to Bray. Amongst the little towns of interest

on this part of the front is Albert. It is possessed of a large

Byzantine church, which is reported to have taken fourteen years of

labour to build and fourteen minutes of shell fire from the Hun gunners

to destroy. Surmounting the church tower is a large gilded statue of

the Virgin, holding in her arms the Holy Child. Glittering in the

sunshine, it must have been a good target, and for some time has hung

suspended in mid air, almost at right angles to its original position,

having been displaced by shells. It bends over the almost deserted

streets of the little town, which has suffered so sorely at the hands of

the enemy, in an attitude of benediction, and presents a picture which

cannot but impress one. The superstition amongst the inhabitants is

that the day on which the statue falls to the ground from its present

position is the day that the war will end.

This is perhaps the place to add a few words on German "Kultur," of

which so much has been heard and written, and the nature of which, after

investigation and the careful sifting of evidence, has been proved up to

the hilt by competent committees. I have myself seen what remains of

the large church at the village of Doulieu, near Estaires. Doulieu was

formerly in German occupation; its church suffered no damage from

shelling, but had been destroyed by being used as a crematorium, for the

Germans placed in it many of their dead, and, having saturated it with

petrol or paraffin, set it alight. Its outer walls, blackened by fire,

now only remain. A friend of mine on one occasion got into conversation

with a German officer prisoner, who spoke excellent English, having

resided for some years in London. My friend, discussing the war with

him, remarked: "Your army has played a pretty dirty game in Belgium."

The Hun replied, "It would certainly appear so, unless you have heard

our side of the story. It must be obviously a difficult matter for an

invading army to operate in a hostile country, and in one which has been

so wickedly wronged at that, and has a just grievance. Stern

disciplinary action in regard to civilians must be essential, and this

has led to calculated and systematic brutality."

It will be within the recollection of many that Christmas Day 1914, on

certain parts of the line, notably where the trenches opposite ours were

occupied by Saxons, was observed as a day of peace and a temporary

armistice was unofficially agreed on. Soldiers of the opposing armies

climbed over the parapet, and it was reported, though I cannot vouch for

the accuracy of the statement, played a football match in "no man's

land" at one point on the line. I do know that one regiment of London

Territorials exchanged presents with "brother Boche," a jar of ration

rum being thrown over to the Saxons, who returned the compliment by a

roll of barbed wire, of which, an accompanying message said, they had

reason to believe our fellows were short at the time. Since then,

however, times have changed, and subsequent events have put a stop to

anything of this kind. In fact, strict orders on the subject were

issued just before Christmas Day 1915.

Towards the end of September our railhead was "moved up," this time to

Doullens. The Indian cavalry were in "close billets" and "standing to"

under an hour's notice to move. During the days and nights immediately

preceding the attack on Loos, the bombardment by our guns of every

calibre was terrific and incessant; it seemed to never stop, day or

night, the continuous deep reverberating boom. The air trembled, window

panes thirty miles behind the line rattled in their frames, and at night

the sky was lit up by the flickering of the gun flashes. One wondered

how men could live in such a hell, for as such its effects can only be

adequately described. Such a bombardment is the essential prelude to an

attack by infantry, and the transport of the immense amount of

ammunition that is necessary to keep the guns fed is a task which

devolves on the Army Service Corps.

The system adopted for transporting and issuing ammunition to the guns

is to all intents and purposes a parallel to that for transporting and

issuing rations to the troops, which I have described in a previous

chapter. The "Ammunition Parks" of motor-lorries are to the guns what

"Supply Columns" are to the personnel. The lorries comprising an

ammunition park are loaded up from the ammunition train at railhead, and

off-loaded to the limbered horse wagons of the Ammunition Column, the

function of which corresponds to that of the horse train in the Supply

scheme.

But to return to Doullens. It is a small town, boasting of nothing of

great interest, but was at one time in German occupation; only, however,

for a matter of days. The inhabitants will tell you that the Germans,

contrary to custom, did not treat them badly during their stay; they

paid for their billets and everything else they had, making no civilians

prisoners and exacting no money from the population. Doubtless,

however, they would have done so had their departure not been of

necessity a hurried one.

Shortly after the attack on Loos had been made, the cavalry were again

sent back to their former billeting area, no opportunity for cavalry

fighting having presented itself. It was sad indeed to see these fine

troops, superbly mounted and in perfect fighting trim, marching back

from the front, useless for the time being in the general scheme of

things.

Any descriptive account of the Indian Cavalry would be incomplete

without mention of its veteran Rajput warrior, Lieut.-General Sir Pertab

Singh. He is in a sense the _raison d'etre_ of the Indian Cavalry. Over

seventy, short, but as alert and erect as a man half his age, he has

literally lived in the saddle, and is a born fighting man. "'One charge,

one bullet' sums up his philosophy, and it is not a bad one to live up

to in these times," remarked a writer in _Blackwood's_ recently.

Sir Pertab, before leaving India to come to France with the Indian

Cavalry, made over his principality to his descendants, in the belief

that he would never return to his native country. He is frequently to

be seen--his breast covered with the ribands of many decorations and

medals--amongst his regiment, the Jodhpur Lancers, and his wish is to

lead them into action, charge and "pig-stick the German brutes," as I

believe he once expressed it. Writing of him in 1897, Winston

Churchill, in _The Story of the Malakand Field Force_, remarks: "The

spectacle of this splendid Indian Prince, whose magnificent uniform in

the Jubilee procession had attracted the attention of all beholders, now

clothed in business-like khaki and on service at the head of his

regiment, aroused the most pleasing reflections."

So history repeats itself twenty years later!

_*Chapter XII*_

_*BETWEEN THE ANCRE AND THE SOMME*_

In previous chapters I have referred to the intense bombardment which

preceded the attacks on Neuve Chapelle and Loos during 1915. Looking

back they seem as nothing compared with what our artillery has been

able, thanks to the munition workers at home, to treat the Huns to in

August, 1916, a bombardment audible very far back from the scenes of

action. At, say, nine o'clock one night the guns will suddenly start:

one man turns to another and remarks, "There must be a _strafe_ on

to-night." The guns continue without cessation, till perhaps just as

daylight is stealing across the sky they stop for a time abruptly. This

may signify that at this very moment the infantry are over the top, or

parapets, of the trenches at the particular point where the attack is

being made. More names for the Roll of Honour, for "Somewhere in the

universe, God's awful dawn is red."

Newspaper correspondents at the front have recently, in a sense, come

into their own: they have been granted more latitude in writing and

allowed to see something of the show. It is good that this should be

so, both from the point of view of the fighting-men themselves and also

that of the people at home. Much has, therefore, appeared in the Press

and elsewhere on the subject of the advance north and south of the

Somme, and for this reason there remains little left unwritten, so far

as the actual fighting and the scenes of its surroundings arc concerned.

On many occasions, in the course of duty, I have had the opportunity of

going over a good deal of the ground captured from the enemy in the

great Allied push which started on July 1, 1916. It almost baffles

description. Without actually seeing the results, it is difficult to

realize the pulverizing effect of continued and heavy artillery

bombardment.

In this sector, such villages as Contalmaison, Fricourt, and Pozieres,

to mention only three, have literally ceased to exist; the fact that

there have ever been villages in these particular spots is indicated

only by their names on the map and heaps of debris and rubbish. They

are not like such places as Ypres or Arras, where still here and there

remain standing a few forlorn-looking bits of outer walls and the

skeletons of destroyed houses. To give one instance, the cure of a

village in the Somme district, after it had been taken from the Germans,

sought leave from the British authorities to be conducted to it in order

to see if it were possible for him to recover any of the possessions, or

relics, of his church. The privilege was duly afforded him, and thither

he was escorted. Unfortunately, however, he was quite unable to find

either the church, his own house, or even his way about "the village";

but then, as the officer remarked who told me this story, all these

things were scarcely to be wondered at, for Monsieur le Cure had only

spent forty years of his life there! I give this story to indicate what

is the state of the land over which this heavy artillery preparation has

been necessary in order to dislodge the Hun and destroy his

ramifications.

The impression of the whole scene of the captured ground (July

1916)--or, at least, that part of it which I have seen--remaining in my

mind is an undulating plateau extending as far as the eye can see. In

more peaceful times it was perhaps arable land. Now it is arid and dead:

nothing grows there, not a blade of grass; even the trees of such woods

as the Bois de Mametz do not boast of a green leaf--they are splintered

and torn down by shells. Those that still stand are withered and brown,

the results of continual high explosive and gas shells. It reminds you

of nothing so much as land which is suffering from the effects of very

severe volcanic eruption, for it is everywhere pitted with craters and

shell holes of all sizes and depths. On this plateau are quantities of

transport wagons, limbers, and heavy draft horses, their bay coats

shimmering in the sun; these are the wagon lines of the many artillery

batteries that are operating in the sector. As you proceed along the

road, which runs through it, you will note that it crosses more than one

line of former trenches which have been wrested from the enemy at great

cost.

At the point of the road-crossing they have been filled in. Almost all

along the road are well-constructed old German dug-outs, many of them

spacious, dug a considerable depth into the bank on the side of the road

and surrounded by layers of sand-bags. They must have taken considerable

time and labour to construct, many of them being a series of cellars,

connected by passages, at least fifteen or twenty feet deep. If you

care to climb down into them, frequently you will come upon sights which

are, to say the least, gruesome. There is a cold, clammy feeling in the

air in some of these dugouts; they reek of death. Some have been

luxuriously fitted up, walls plastered and papered; traces of electric

wiring and lamp fittings and stolen French furniture and beds are still

visible. I have before me a scrap of torn and blood-stained paper, part

of a leaf from a Field Message Book. On it is written the following,

which it is just possible to decipher. It was picked up in a dug-out in

the old British line, north of the Somme, over which British troops have

advanced:

... high state of efficiency. An important section of these operations

has been entrusted to this battalion, and the Commanding Officer feels

sure that every one belonging to it will rise to the occasion and "do

his bit" for the regiment and his country. A man, no matter what his

position, who sits down or otherwise idles when he ought to be working,

is failing both one and the other.

No doubt the remains of an order issued by the C.O. of a battalion in a

tight corner, with perhaps a difficult job ahead to accomplish and an

important part to play in the "Big Push." There is no signature or clue

which would enable the writer of this inspiring human document or the

regiment referred to in it to be identified. Perhaps his men obeyed his

order and with him have earned their discharge and joined the great

majority. To see the captured ground and its network of trenches and

dug-outs is to realize what a tremendous achievement it has been on the

part of British troops to dig the Huns out like rats from their

strongholds and drive them back, and what artillery preparation must

have been necessary to break down their defences. In passing, there are

also the other rats, and the shelter afforded by dug-outs is shared by

men and rats alike. It is scarcely necessary to add that the latter are

a veritable plague, not only in the trenches themselves, but behind them

as well. There is a story--I cannot vouch for its truth, though it

certainly has a Bairnsfather touch about it--of an officer commanding a

battalion who received orders from his Brigade Headquarters to "render a

return" to that office by such and such a date, stating the number of

rats in the trenches occupied by the unit under his command. The nature

of his alleged reply I have not, however, heard. It is better, no

doubt, left to the imagination. The Army lives on "returns." Every

unit in the field, no matter under what conditions it is living, has to

"render returns" on at least a dozen different things each week. In that

most priceless little book of wit, which contains so much that is in

reality true, _The Young Officer's Guide to Knowledge_, we find that "a

return" is a document sent to a superior authority and comprises lists

of persons or things in your charge. This document, quite contrary to

what you might suppose from its title, never returns to you, unless the

person to whom you have sent it thinks it requires attention. It is

probably called "a return" for this very reason, as it is the most

unlikely name for it, and so cultivates a taste for the eccentric in the

Service. Returns are always being "called for" by somebody. You must

be prepared to "render" these "returns" at all times at a moment's

notice, e.g. "the average number of men who have had sore feet between

January 1st and April 1st."

But to return to the scenery between the Ancre and the Somme.

Cunningly hidden away at different points, the guns will make their

presence constantly known to you. Here a battery of ugly-looking

howitzers is loosing off salvos into the Hun trenches, and a little

further along, perhaps, a 6-inch gun by the roadside will every now and

then belch forth a sheet of flame, as with deafening row it throws a

projectile, weighing about 100 pounds, screeching through the air, which

explodes perhaps five or ten miles behind the German lines. Guns of

every size, from the 13-pounders of Royal Horse Artillery batteries to

12- and 15-inch Naval guns, can be seen and heard pounding away at the

enemy when a big _strafe_ is in progress. No one appears to pay any

attention to these deafening distractions. Adaptability to

circumstances and surroundings is a cardinal principle of war.

It is amongst such scenes as these that the Army Service Corps

motor-lorries roll up as usual with their loads of rations for the

personnel and horses of the guns. A little way behind a battery, it

will be noted, is a bivouac. It is the improvised mess of the Gunner

officers, and here you may meet these priceless desperadoes discussing

"direct hits" that have been recorded to their guns by the observation

officer ahead, narrow escapes and recent adventures amongst "Grannies,"

"Crumps," "Whiz-bangs" and "Heavies," whilst they consume delicacies

from Fortnum and Mason with the utmost sang-froid and complacency,

merely remarking that they hope the Huns won't _strafe_ them to-night!

They are totally unconcerned with the dangers that are constantly

lurking around; thus does familiarity breed contempt of even Death

itself.

Now and again one notices roadside groups of the graves of German

soldiers, all of uniform size and design. They almost invariably

consist of a wooden cross about 3 feet high, surmounted by a little

oval-shaped roof or shelter, to protect them from the weather--to such

lengths in thoroughness do the Huns go and so far do they see ahead!

Painted a grass-green colour, they are strangely out of keeping with the

present hue of the soil and of vegetable life, so conspicuous by its

absence. On each is painted in white characters the name and regiment

of the man whose memory it perpetuates. This follows some such

inscription as "Hier ruht in Gott" or "Unserem gutem Kameraden dem,"

etc. Not far from them are groups of British graves. The inscriptions

on two plain wooden crosses that I noticed have particularly lingered in

my mind: "Here lies a British soldier. Name unknown. Devon Regiment.

He died fighting." The second, the epitaph of a horse: "To the memory

of my dumb pal, Queenie. Killed in action, July 6th, 1916," gives an

insight to the character of the British soldier and his love for the

animals that work with him.

In the sky is an irregular line of watchful captive observation balloons

for observing officers. In the language of the front they are known as

"sausages," from their similarity in shape to that domestic commodity.

Away in the distance is another line of stationary balloons of almost

similar shape, for the Huns, also, are not unobservant. The barbed-wire

cage, a temporary home for recently made prisoners, is always an object

of interest; and everywhere one notices salvage parties clearing up and

collecting together the quantities of waste metal, spent ammunition,

accoutrements, etc., which litter the ground. Piled up at various

points are stacks of empty shell cases, which by their size indicate the

enormous quantity of ammunition that is being used by our guns in their

work of pulverizing the German trenches and fortifications. Every one

is busy--the newly won ground is being cleared, positions are being

consolidated, roads are being made up, telegraph poles and wires

erected, standard-gauge railway lines are being laid down. Whether at

the Base or the trenches, war is carried on methodically and with the

regular routine of a factory. It would appear to have become an

institution. The whole war zone is linked up with a telephone system

which compares favourably with that of London.

Along the road one may encounter parties of prisoners being marched back

from the line, and occasionally little groups of wounded being helped

towards the ambulances. So much for the ground taken from the Huns in

the Great Push of August 1916.

To turn for a moment to another part of the line. From the gaunt and

shell-shattered tower, which stands a landmark for miles around, on the

summit of Mont St. Eloi I have looked across "the Labyrinth," as it is

called, and watched the shells from our batteries beneath explode in the

German trenches, or amongst their wire between our trenches and theirs,

known as "No Man's Land." It is an amazing and uncanny sight. Not a

single sign of life, not a single human being, is to be seen; only the

results of human and mechanical activity are visible. The guns below

loose off with terrific noise, then in the distance there is a dull and

heavy thud, as a huge solid-looking mass of black smoke suddenly rises

up in a cloud from the ground and remains a few moments before gradually

dispersing. To the right can be discerned the battered towers of Arras,

and between this point and the trenches is the little village of

Maroeuil, which nestles hidden away in a hollow and has been scarcely

affected by enemy fire. There, crimson ramblers still blossom and roses

flourish in the gardens, now almost choked with weeds, of its deserted

cottages.

Sights like the view from the top of Mont St. Eloi bring home to one the

fact that modern methods of warfare are accompanied by few scenic

effects or dramatic spectacles. War, like its results, is invariably

ugly. Engineers and chemists have made it so by their ghastly appliances

and materials, which have put the open fighting of former days on

horseback out of the question. Cavalry charges, as portrayed by Lady

Butler, are indeed a thing of the past. A few machine guns, suitably

concealed, could hold up squadrons of advancing cavalry. The only human

element left is the infantry charge, with fixed bayonets. To be killed

by the explosion of a shell or asphyxiated by gas, miles behind the

line, cannot be described as a heroic death--it is not even fair on the

individual who so meets his end. He is not in a position to combat his

invisible enemy; sometimes he has not even a sporting chance of escape

from an attack which he is powerless to combat or avert. Is it, then,

to be wondered at that men living under such conditions, namely, in

places which are periodically or continuously strafed, become fatalists?

They cease to worry, take everything that comes as a matter of course,

never knowing when their turn may come.

Not infrequently we have taken convoys by night to within a matter of a

few hundred yards of the line. The absence of lamps and travelling

along bad and often narrow roads make slow speed imperative and the

utmost care in driving essential. The only light available is provided

by the moon and the many star-shells over the trenches, which seem to

light up the whole horizon, and remind one of so many shooting stars, or

a pyrotechnic display at the Crystal Palace seen from a distance.

Convoying along roads which are in view and under observation of the

enemy, even by night, is as exciting as it is a fascinating game, for

even if the convoy is, by the absence of headlights, to all intents and

purposes made invisible, the enemy is able to assume from their

geographical positions what roads are of strategical importance and

being made use of for transport purposes to the trenches. He may at any

time train a gun on those particular roads, on the off-chance of bagging

a convoy, or at any rate of making the road in question so dangerous as

to necessitate it being put out of bounds for transport, thus making the

approaches to the line more difficult and fewer in number.

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