parked. The town boasted of many good billets, as is usual in small
towns of this sort. The rank and file sleep usually in their lorries.
These can, by a man with a little ingenuity, be made quite comfortable
resting-places, by rigging up inside the vehicle a hammock or other
similar contrivance. With the tail-board up the cold is more or less
kept out, and the tarpaulin cover, which is stretched over the top of
long oval-shaped, channel iron supports, roofs in the vehicle and
protects the sleeper from rain and other indiscretions of the weather.
Other accommodation in the shape of empty warehouses is usually
available, or billets in private houses--if the men care to go to the
expense of paying for them--are not disallowed. In the smaller villages
matters become somewhat different, the only opportunity for additional
cover consisting usually in the inevitable farmhouse mud-walled barns.
These are seldom weather-proof, and frequently their hospitality must be
shared with many rats which also make them their dwelling-place.
French farms are curiously arranged places. In the North of France, at
any rate, they are invariably one-storied buildings of rectangular shape
surrounding a farmyard with a dung-heap. Near the dung-heap is
frequently a pump, so it is not to be wondered at that the greatest care
has to be taken in treating water before it is used for drinking
purposes by the troops. This is accomplished by large movable chemically
charged filters, mounted on wheels and towed by wagon or motor-lorry
from place to place as necessity may require. In any place where troops
are billeted it becomes necessary to immediately construct incinerators,
either of brick or metal, where all rubbish in the shape of empty
jam-tins, garbage, etc., can be destroyed and, after being thus burnt,
is buried. The result is that ground in France, after being occupied by
British troops, is generally left by them in a better state of
sanitation than they found it, owing to the measures taken to drain any
stagnant water and the free use of chemical disinfectants over any
doubtful soil or drainage. The French peasants sometimes express
surprise at the precautions taken by the British Army to avoid
insanitation, and at the fact that all refuse is buried after being
burnt. Owing to the latter we have sometimes been described as _les
chats_, the peasants apparently assuming that we have learnt this idea
from the habits of the amiable members of the feline tribe.
All such undertakings are carried out by that most necessary and
efficient party of men known as the Sanitary Squad.
But to leave the subject of billeting areas in general and return to the
town of Aire and the attractions it offered. I shall not forget the
first Sunday--the first of the New Year, 1915--which we spent there.
Besides ourselves there were considerable numbers of troops stationed in
the vicinity at the time, and in honour of this fact, and also
presumably by way of further cementing the Entente Cordiale, it was
announced that in the afternoon there would be a special service in the
cathedral to invoke the Divine aid for the success of the Allied arms.
All British soldiers were invited to be present, and long before the
advertised time of the service the cathedral was packed, and, looking
down its long nave, presented in appearance a solid mass of khaki. The
service opened by the singing of "God Save the King," in which the whole
congregation were asked to join. The National Anthem was accompanied by
the organ and conducted by an aged priest, who stood at the chancel
steps beneath a life-size statue of Joan of Arc, and never, I thought,
had there been such an assembly under such strange circumstances. Here
were a thousand or so English soldiers of all ranks, from General
Officers to privates, and a sprinkling of French soldiers, singing the
National Anthem while facing a statue of Joan of Arc, her arms
outstretched as if in the act of pleading. And all this in a Catholic
cathedral in France, which still held protruding from its outer walls
cannon-balls accurately placed there by a piece of Marlborough's
artillery in a former and somewhat different campaign. Incidentally,
several similar cannon-balls were dug up in a field adjoining the
railhead, in the course of excavations made in connection with the
Native abattoir, which I have referred to in a previous chapter. That
priest was nothing if not thorough, for he conducted the congregation
through all the verses of the National Anthem, and it must be admitted
to our national shame that the majority present knew no more than the
words of the first verse, and I think these words did duty for all the
remaining ones! The Bishop, who preached, again and again addressed
himself to "Messieurs les Anglais," reminding his hearers that the great
armies of France and Great Britain were fighting side by side in
brotherhood for the liberties of Europe. He also laid frequent emphasis
on the help which Great Britain had extended to France in her hour of
need, and paid a glowing tribute to "Sa Majeste le Roi George de
Grande-Bretagne."
There was nearly always something of interest going on at Aire. On the
broad canal the many barges presented a picturesque sight. The French,
unlike us, make the greatest possible use of their canals and waterways,
and their barges would, I think, put anything of the kind that one might
see on the Thames quite in the shade. The use of these barges has been
invaluable to our Army: some have been lavishly fitted up as Red Cross
barges, and, in charge of officers of the Royal Army Medical Corps,
gently bear down the more seriously wounded from the front to the
casualty clearing hospitals, in a degree of comfort that could not
possibly be approached by motor ambulance cars on bad roads. These
lavishly equipped hospital barges are indeed worthy of comparison with
our magnificent ambulance trains running on the French State railways
between the casualty clearing hospitals and the base. Any one who has
studied the map and knows the position of La Bassee Canal will at once
realize of what use this waterway has been as a means of evacuating
wounded. Among other _divertissements_ there duly arrived at Aire a
flotilla of motor-gunboats, commanded by a real live Admiral, with his
second in command, a celebrated surgeon and bone-setter from Harley
Street. Amongst the other officers of the flotilla was Earl de la Warr,
who has since lost his life in the service of his country in another
quarter of the globe. His own yacht, having been armed and suitably
fitted up, formed one of the flotilla. The gunboats were anchored in
the canal at Aire for some time. Exactly what they were intended to do
we never actually discovered. In the end they did nothing, but departed
as mysteriously as they had arrived. We heard at a later date that some
had gone to the Dardanelles, and others were being used for spotting
German submarines in the English Channel, a job for which, judging by
their speed, size, and light draught, they must be eminently suitable.
Whilst the gunboats were at Aire, I spent some cheery evenings in the
wardroom with the gallant members of the Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve
who officered them--the second in command not infrequently himself
cooking the dinner on board. Aire having been before the war a training
centre of the French Army, boasted a very good rifle-range, and here our
lorry drivers were instructed in the use of the rifle.
In those days drafts of troops, arriving from home, used to be
frequently detrained at Aire and other stations in its vicinity, and
great interest and excitement was evinced at the arrival of the famous
1st Division of the new Armies to come to France, who marched through on
their way up to the trenches. A finer set of men, in the uniforms of
almost every Scottish regiment, it would have been difficult to imagine,
as one saw them file through the narrow streets of this old town.
Judging by the many substantial buildings which have been erected for
various purposes and the enterprises started in the war area, one would
imagine that the war was really a permanent institution. Amongst those
that should be mentioned are the Y.M.C.A. Huts and the Expeditionary
Field Force Canteens. In the former, which are to be found in all towns
behind the line of any size, the soldier is always sure of a welcome and
is able to obtain refreshments, read the papers, and write his letters.
Pens, ink, and paper are provided free. The good work that the Y.M.C.A.
has accomplished out here is simply magnificent and meets with much
appreciation. The Expeditionary Field Force Canteens, of which there
are now quite a large number, are veritable diminutive Harrod's Stores;
in them can be purchased by officers and men every imaginable thing,
from soap and writing-paper to tinned fruit and cigarettes, all at
particularly low prices, especially, of course, tobacco and cigarettes,
which are exported from England in bond free of duty. Even at the
extremely low prices prevailing after paying current expenses and
establishment charges, etc., a profit is made, and this is devoted to
the alleviation of distress amongst the dependents of soldiers fallen in
battle. Surely a worthy object.
Boxing and, of course, especially football are very popular behind the
line, often much to the evident amazement of the French population, who
are in a few cases averse to lending their fields for the purpose, which
they naturally consider may be spoilt as pasture land.
Amongst other amusements, some little time ago, the Indian Cavalry Corps
was presented with a cinematograph machine. An electric motor to drive
it was provided by the Indian Soldiers' Fund. The whole equipment is
mounted and carried on a motor-lorry. Frequent changes of pictures are
obtained from London, and when times are quiet the lorry travels from
unit to unit, giving periodic exhibitions for the amusement of officers
and men, the screen being erected in a suitable barn or, when weather
permits, out of doors.
Aire was also not without its amusements, both aquatic and equestrian.
It boasted of one of the best open-air swimming-baths I have ever seen.
As the summer of 1915 approached, we looked at it expectantly, and very
soon the officer commanding a Reserve Ammunition Park, which was at that
time in a state of immobility and compulsory idleness, was placed in
charge of the bath. With considerable enterprise and some perseverance
he succeeded in clearing it of weeds and rushes, and thus it became a
splendid bathing-place, adding considerably to the enjoyment of officers
and men alike, who were fortunate enough to be able to take advantage of
it. Towards the end of July a very fine programme of aquatic sports was
put up and extremely well run, the band of the aforesaid Ammunition Park
assisting in no small degree towards the success of this enterprise.
That band of string, wood, and brass instruments, as a "volunteer"
orchestra on active service, was really an achievement. It not only did
duty for such shows as this, but on Sunday mornings regularly occupied
the band-stand in the centre of the Grande Place during Church Parade,
at which Sir Douglas Haig, at that time the General Commanding the 1st
Army, was frequently present. At a later date His Majesty the King
attended a Church Parade in this Grande Place.
During the summer two horse shows were arranged by the Indian Cavalry
Corps. The first was a competitive meeting in which French cavalry also
participated, and was attended by civilian inhabitants and officers and
men who were anywhere within reasonable distance of it at the time. A
military French-horn band and a British regimental band assisted. The
sight of the Royal Horse Artillery batteries going round the course at
the gallop to the music of the band, and the traditional smartness of
their "turn out," was one which once seen could not easily be forgotten,
together with a number of riding and jumping competitions, reminiscent
as they were of the Royal Naval and Military Tournament in London.
The second show was more in the nature of an exhibition of feats of
horsemaster-ship by the Natives, and was arranged for the pleasure of
their Majesties the King and Queen of the Belgians, accompanied by their
son, the Duke of Brabant, and by Admiral Lord Charles Beresford, who
were evidently much impressed, as were all spectators, by the Natives'
prowess as horsemen.
It is interesting to note that on this occasion King Albert wore the
khaki uniform and Sam Brown belt of a British officer. His son was in
the uniform of a private of the Belgian Army, and stood at attention as
he watched the show, smartly saluting all officers as they were
presented to the King. He is now an Eton boy, and when his picture
appeared recently in the illustrated papers, standing beside Prince
Henry, the son of our own King, my mind harked back to that horse show
and this strange contrast.
Lord Charles Beresford was wearing khaki slacks and field service tunic,
with badges of a Colonel of Royal Marines, and any one who knows the
gallant Admiral by sight will at once appreciate how picturesque he
looked on this occasion.
The course was in a large field of very green pasture land, roped in and
marked out with flags. The setting of the whole scene could not have
been more beautiful. The field was surrounded with woods, and a typical
French chateau stood at one end.
The various competitive events were, as I have already remarked, not
confined to the Indian Cavalry Corps; officers of both British and
French cavalry regiments participated, and the many different bright
scarlet and blue uniforms worn by officers of French cavalry, together
with the red and gold cap-bands and gorgets of British Generals and
Staff and their many rows of ribbons, showed up as bright spots of
colour amongst the crowd of khaki-clad soldiers, making the whole scene
a really picturesque one.
The uniform of French cavalry officers, before the introduction of the
universal pale blue uniform, was a creation truly marvellous; perhaps
that is why they were the last to adopt the new field service dress. It
consisted in bright red breeches, sky-blue short tunic with silver
buttons, red and white facings distinguishing the chasseur from the
dragoon; jack-boots and long spurs; a forage cap of sky blue, with
silver-braid badges of rank. My description may not be quite accurate in
its details; nevertheless, it is the impression left in my mind of the
full-dress uniform of these gallant officers. Also there were present
cuirassiers, with their breast-plates and helmets, from the back of
which hung long crimson horsehair plumes.
One evening at Aire, another officer and myself were taking an
after-dinner stroll along the road which leads to Berguette. We were
discussing matters far removed from war, when our conversation and the
peacefulness of a moonlight summer night were disturbed by a terrific
explosion, which appeared to be quite close. It was followed by several
more in quick succession. We stood still and, gazing upwards, could see
nothing, though we heard the hum of an aeroplane or airship overhead in
the distance. Returning to Aire, we found the inhabitants all out in
the streets trying to catch a glimpse of the hostile aircraft.
"Zeppelin" they murmured with one accord. Owing to the stillness of the
night, the buzz of the engine certainly sounded louder than that of the
usual aeroplane, which, however, it turned out to be. The damage done
was insignificant. One or two bombs landed quite near a neighbouring
station, which was being used as an ammunition railhead at the time. An
ammunition train was standing loaded in a siding, but was untouched.
The night-raider did not prolong his visit for very long, and by bedtime
all was again quiet.
I remember a daylight aeroplane raid at Lillers one day. The Taube,
flying very high, tried to bomb the station, but succeeded in damaging
only a cafe just outside it and smashing, by the concussion of the
exploding bombs, every pane of glass within a quarter of a mile radius.
There were two or three casualties. A Frenchman who was the possessor
of one leg only, had it damaged to such an extent that it too had to be
amputated, which led him, no doubt, to reflect that troubles seldom come
singly!
_*Chapter VIII*_
_*FROM BETHUNE TO YPRES*_
While we were stationed at Lillers, in the latter part of December 1914,
a detachment of the Indian Cavalry was sent up in the role of infantry
to the trenches beyond Bethune for a short spell, where they reinforced
the Lahore and Meerut Divisions, the latter two Divisions comprising the
Indian Corps (infantry). This corps was moved to another theatre of war
at the beginning of 1916, after having borne the brunt of the fighting
through two winters in France and Flanders and suffered many casualties.
The cavalry on this occasion gave a good account of themselves in the
fighting round Festubert and Givenchy. During the time that they were
there we convoyed the motor-lorries with rations for the detachment in
the trenches, but although our destination was shelled during this
period and was within earshot of rifle fire in the trenches and the
"rat-tat-tat" of machine guns, like so many gigantic typewriters at
work, we never managed to be actually there whilst any excitement was
on.
In this neighbourhood are the graves of many gallant Native troops,
Gurkhas, Sikhs, Garhwalis, and Pathans of the Indian Corps. Our
Dominion troops have rightly won universal praise and admiration for the
gallant part they have played in the war and the way they have come
forward of their own free will to fight, but it is to be regretted that
our Indian troops have in this respect been somewhat neglected. The
nature of their loyalty is different somehow to that of any of our other
overseas troops. "For East is East, and West is West, and never the
twain shall meet." Perhaps it is not generally known that every Native
cavalryman provides his own horse or its equivalent value in money on
enlistment. I shall never forget the Review of the Indian Cavalry Corps
by the Prince of Wales in France; the way they gave "eyes right" as each
squadron marched past the Prince left in one the impression that they
really meant it and were saluting the future King-Emperor. These
contingents, infantry and cavalry alike, came to a far-away, strange,
cold land, and to a particularly bleak part of it at that, during the
rainiest winter ever experienced in a proverbially wet part of the
country, dressed only in their thin Indian khaki, be it remembered.
They found themselves taking part in a kind of warfare that was entirely
new to them, in deep trenches, frequently up to their middles in water,
and always in thick mud and slush, such as they had never experienced
before in their lives. Moreover, not only were they unused to shell
fire, but they found their own particular methods and tactics of war in
open country impossible under such circumstances; yet, in spite of all
this, they upheld the fighting traditions of the Indian Army, and stuck
it through the very heaviest of the fighting and under the worst
climatic conditions it is possible to imagine. I am referring now
chiefly to the Indian Infantry Corps.
During the nights and days which preceded the battle of Neuve Chapelle
we heard guns away in the distance making a continuous bombardment, and
a deep roar like thunder rent the air. This was the prelude to the
attack. On March 9th Sir Douglas Haig's Special Order to the 1st Army
was published.
Our minds at this time must have been dwarfed, for the attack on Neuve
Chapelle was as nothing in magnitude, compared with subsequent attacks,
in the matters of men and guns.
The Indian Cavalry Corps was moved up towards the direction of the
attack and massed some way behind the line in woods, where they remained
"standing to," in co-operation with divisions of British and French
cavalry, the whole representing, I believe, the greatest number of
mounted troops ever massed together, up to that time.
The Supply Column made two or three journeys up on its usual errand, but
the cavalry were sent back to the previous billets after a few days, it
being found that no opportunity for cavalry fighting had been effected.
Although this was the case it must not be thought that the Indian
Cavalry Corps were kept entirely in a state of idleness. The ----
Divisions of the Corps, under the command of Lieut.-General Rimington,
were directly under the orders of General Headquarters, and were
available to be attached to any army and sent to any part of the line
where it was considered that an opportunity for using them might arise.
Meanwhile they did their bit of reserve trench digging in various parts
of the line, and many a pleasant summer day I have spent in convoying up
the lorries of supplies for the different digging parties, and
off-loaded them at various points between Locon and Estaires. The
R.H.A. batteries attached to the Corps were almost continually in action
at different places, though more in the role of Field than of Horse
Artillery.
The most interesting journeys, from the Supply Column point of view,
were when the Indian Cavalry were sent up to the trenches, again in the
role of infantrymen, to the Ypres Salient. This was in the early summer
of 1915, when they reinforced the line immediately after the first
German gas attack, from which our line naturally suffered severely
through being unprepared for another new and previously unanticipated
form of German "Kultur."
It is interesting at this point to note that during this time a British
Cavalry Regiment, forming part of a Native Cavalry Brigade, assisted in
the attack and capture of Hooge Chateau, which has changed hands so many
times.
The rendezvous for the motor-lorries on these occasions was at some
shelter huts on an open, flat piece of ground, where once grass had
grown and now used as a camping-ground for troops recently out of, or
about to take their turn in, the trenches just beyond. On it are
erected a number of huts, similar to those which can be seen in many
parts of England where troops in training have been encamped. A road
runs through the middle of this plain, and at a prearranged point on it
was the ration dumping-ground. Here the motor-lorries were met by the
Supply Officer and their contents off-loaded. The use made by us of
this ground as a camp was, of course, not unknown to the Germans, who
occasionally favoured it with a certain amount of shelling. On one or
two occasions they shelled it at a most inopportune moment. A smoking
concert had been got up and was to take place in one of the largest
huts. It was to start at 8 p.m., and no sooner had the first performer
on the programme mounted the improvised platform than a shell landed
just outside; it was followed by several others. There was only one
thing to be done, and the senior officer present ordered the hut to be
evacuated. So everyone departed, cursing the Huns roundly for being so
extremely inconsiderate as to spoil an evening's amusement.
One Sunday a Church Parade was being held, and those present were
lustily singing a hymn, the opening line of which is, "Stand up, stand
up for Jesus." As the words "Stand up" were leaving their lips, a shell
came screaming over and exploded near by. Every one, the padre
included, instinctively "ducked"!